Household exhaust fans for the bathroom. How to choose the right fans for the toilet and bathroom, installation features

To quickly remove moist air after taking a bath or shower, an exhaust fan in the bathroom will help. This is a small device that is installed at the entrance to the ventilation duct or directly into the route.

Types of fans for the bathroom

Most often, the exhaust fan in the bathroom is of the axial type. They are inexpensive, they do a good job if the outlets of the ventilation ducts are nearby. If the distance from the entry point to the ventilation duct is more than 2 meters, it makes sense to set the radial one.

According to the installation method, fans are:

There are no questions with wall and ceiling, everything is clear by name, but it is worth explaining about channel ones. This modification is installed in the gap of the ventilation duct. The code is mainly used for one exhaust channel, and several rooms must be connected to it, but it can also be used on an individual channel.

These models are used less often, as they are more difficult to install and maintain (harder to get access for preventive cleaning or replacement), but in many cases this is the only option. In private houses, the duct fan can be moved to the attic, where it is easier to maintain it.

Selection by technical parameters

Like any technical device, an exhaust fan in the bathroom must be selected primarily according to technical parameters. It should be said right away that the cases are usually made of plastic, and the case itself is waterproof (the minimum protection class is IP 24). The shape and type of the grille are arbitrary, the color of the case is most often white, but there are also colored ones.

In addition to external signs, we select the diameter of the outlet pipe of the exhaust fan. It is selected depending on the cross section of the duct (it is better not to narrow it, as the air exchange will drop).

Air exchange

It is necessary to choose an exhaust fan in the bathroom based on the volume of the ventilated room and the frequency of air exchange (registered in sanitary standards). For bathrooms, the recommended rate is 6 to 8 air volumes per hour. For families, an 8-fold exchange is considered; for 1-2 people, 6-7 times is enough.

For example, a bathroom has dimensions of 2.2 * 2.5 * 2.7 m. We multiply all the numbers to find out the volume, we get 14.85 m3. We round up, we get that the volume of the bathroom is 15 cubic meters. We will consider an eight-fold exchange: 15 m2 * 8 = 120 cubic meters / hour. That is, when selecting the performance of the fan, its performance should not be less than 120 cubic meters per hour.

An example of a brief specification for a bathroom exhaust fan

Noise level

The second point that you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan in the bathroom is the level of noise produced. If the fan will only work during the day, the noise produced should be in the region of 30-35 dB. It's not very loud, it doesn't interfere with other noises. If the fan in the hood will work at night, the noise level should be less than 30 dB, and preferably 20-25 dB.

The quietest bathroom fan should be looked for among the radial models. Axial ones, due to the transmission of vibration from the motor, make louder sounds, but there are models in which these vibrations are minimized by the use of special vibration damping pads. Another way is to use rolling bearings. Such axial fans for the bathroom give out just 22-23 dB, which is very small.

Name	Mounting type	working mechanism	Air exchange (performance)	Power consumption	Noise level	Additional functions	Rotational speed	Price
Vents 100 MAT	overhead	axial	98 cu. m/hour	18 W	34 dB	timer, switch-off delay	2300 rpm	30-35$
Electrolux EAF-100TH	overhead	axial	100 cu. m/hour	15 W	33 dB	humidity sensor	without adjustment	30-35$
VENTS iFan	overhead	axial	106 cu. m/hour	4.56 W	31 dB	remote control, humidity sensor	step adjustment	75- 85 $
Soler & Palau SILENT-100 CZ	overhead	axial	95 cu. m/hour	8 W	27 dB	mechanical control	without adjustment	25-39$
Blauberg Sileo 125T	overhead	axial	187 cu. m/hour	17 W	32 dB	timer, check valve	without adjustment	45-50 $
Systemair CBF 100	overhead	radial	110 cu. m/hour	45 W	45 dB	mechanical control	without adjustment	65-75 $
Systemair BF100	overhead	axial	85 cu. m/hour	20 W	41 dB	mechanical control	2400 rpm	32-35 $
Systemair IF 100	channel	axial	87.1 cu. m/hour	14 W	44 dB		2432 rpm	28-35 $
MARLEY MP-100S (SV-100)	overhead		from 10 to 83 m³/h	1.1 W to 4.1 W	10 dB to 38 dB	electronic control	smooth adjustment	209-225 $
VENTS Quiet 100... (Vents Quiet 100)	overhead	silent	97 cu. m/hour	7.5W	25 dB		2300 rpm	28-35 $
Vents 125 Quiet V (125 Quiet V)	overhead	silent	185 cu. m/hour	17 W	32 dB	check valve, rolling bearing	2400 rpm	42-50$
Domovent VKO 125...	channel	axial	185 cu. m/hour	16 W	37 dB	protection against overheating and moisture	without adjustment	7-10$

Also pay attention to such a moment as the material of the duct. The fan itself may make a little noise, but a metal duct can make noise when air moves through it. Therefore, when it is desirable to use plastic. If you already have a metal box, you can reduce the noise level by gluing it with soundproof materials. The second way out is to sew it into a box, and fill the gaps with porous soundproofing material. It is best suited for this regular soundproofing made of mineral fibers. Mounting foam, of course, is convenient to use, but its soundproofing characteristics are very low. Styrofoam with polystyrene foam is not very good in this regard.

Power consumption

Another parameter is power consumption. The smaller this parameter, the less you have to pay for electricity. From this point of view, axial fans for extractor hoods in the bathroom are more economical. For a set of high efficiency at low electricity costs, they give out significant air exchange. Radial ones are less profitable in this regard: with equal performance, they spend 3-4 times more electricity, but the air is transmitted over a greater distance.

It is also worth remembering that the fan performance (the amount of air moved per unit of time) depends on the power consumption. This parameter is also affected by the shape of the impeller and other design features (for example, the presence of rolling bearings), but the larger the volume of air to be pumped, the more powerful the exhaust fan is required in the bathroom.

Additional functions

In the simplest version, the fan in the bathroom hood is turned on by a separate switch. Some models have a chain, by pulling which you can turn it on or off. In this case, the device works for the entire time until the power supply is turned on. There are other options:

The most common models of bathroom exhaust fans are those with a turn-off delay after a blackout. But they can also be turned on through a separate switch, excluding the light bulb from the circuit. Installations with a humidity detector are more economical, since not every visit to the bathroom and turning on the light requires enhanced ventilation. For example, if you went to wash your hands, it is hardly worth turning on forced ventilation.

Another convenient option is different blade speeds. In this case, the exhaust fan in the bathroom can change the mode of operation depending on the initial humidity in the room. Switching is manual (mechanical), automatic (MARLEY MP-100S).

Check valve on the fan in the bathroom - needed or not

There are also exhaust fans with a built-in non-return valve. Sometimes this option is useful - if a reverse draft occurs, it will not allow air from the ventilation system to enter the room. But such models are still not very popular. It's about natural ventilation. Most apartments and houses have natural ventilation. By installing a fan in the ventilation duct, we significantly impair the exhaust air output in a natural way - due to the difference in pressure and draft. Installing a fan with a non-return valve worsens the situation even more. In this case, forced arousal (using a fan) must work around the clock.

Which bathroom fan is better - with or without a check valve - you decide

If you decide to install a check valve, it does not have to be in one housing. It can always be installed separately - in the channel in front of the fan.

A bathroom in an apartment or house is always a “wet place”. Even if you don't make puddles on the floor. Cold and hot water, steam, wet towels - everything evaporates moisture. And it's hot in the bathroom and you get a greenhouse effect.

Excess dampness and heat, ideally, should "leave" in the ventilation, but as you know, its efficiency in urban homes is far from the norm. Moreover, both in the old fund and in new buildings. The reason is that the ventilation is of a natural type everywhere, that is, without additional exhaust.

It is in America that there are huge fans on high-rise buildings, and in our country the air is removed by gravity due to the difference in pressure and temperature. As a result, it moves moderately, or even barely at all, if the houses are old and the canals are clogged.

And our “wet place”, the bathroom, is slowly acquiring all sorts of useless flora and fauna in the form of fungus, mold and even wood lice. To get rid of such a neighborhood or stop it in advance, you need to put an exhaust fan in the bathroom. He will pull all the dampness where it should be, and attack in the form of useless settlers will happily pass you by.

How to choose a bathroom and toilet fan

Everything seems to be simple, we decided that we need a fan, we go to the store and buy it. But soon only cats will be born. The store is waiting for a big surprise from a bunch of types and models. Where there are several tens, and where a couple of hundred will be typed. And you will “hover” over the question, “what kind of fan to put in the bathroom?”.

No wonder. Different types, power, models, installation methods, characteristics - the devil will break his leg in this variety of technical progress in the field of ventilation. Sellers and those understand with difficulty, if the range is huge.

That's why we've put together a "Guide to Bathroom Fans". To facilitate your task and help you quickly buy the right equipment. And first, let's deal with the general characteristics of bathroom fans

So let's go!

1. Axial, centrifugal - what does it mean

This is the kind or type of fan. He talks about the design of the equipment and how it works.

Axial fan- this is a paddle impeller in the body. The impeller turns the motor, on the rotor of which it is mounted. The blades are inclined inward relative to the placement plane, they draw in air well and move it along a straight axis. Therefore, this type is called an axial fan. It differs in good performance, it makes moderate noise, and, most often, it is taken for installation in the bathroom.

Centrifugal fan arranged differently. The air is sucked in by a turbine with blades. Inside the housing, the flow is twisted into a spiral and receives additional acceleration due to centrifugal force. The flow comes out not along a straight axis, but at an angle of 90 degrees into a special device - a snail. A centrifugal fan is also called a radial fan.

It has a lower performance compared to the axial one, but it can “drive the flow” under pressure of different strengths. The noise level is low or medium, depending on the direction of the bend of the rotor blades. With the front bend, it makes less noise, with the back - stronger, but it saves energy.

2. Overhead or channel

Ventilation equipment is for outdoor installation and for indoor. The outdoor type of installation is fastening to a wall or ceiling to the exit of a ventilation hole into a shaft or into a pipe system. A duct fan is a built-in equipment that is placed inside a ventilation duct (duct). Ventilation duct systems are constructed from metal or plastic. For the bathroom, plastic channel systems are more often used, for example, Vents companies.

Often the exit to the ventilation shaft is located in the toilet. To extract from the bathroom, they put an air duct with an intake grate. The ventilation sleeve is pulled up to the mine window. A duct fan with an additional grill is installed in the toilet. The hood simultaneously takes air from the entire bathroom and sends it to the ventilation shaft of the house. By design, external and duct fans are made both axial and centrifugal.

3. Choosing a fan in the bathroom by power

The power level or fan performance is one of the main characteristics. In fact, the hood is chosen according to it, paired with the design (axial / centrifugal). Performance "says" how many cubic meters of air the fan pumps per hour - 100, 200, 300.

To choose the right power, you need to calculate the volume of the bathroom and multiply it by 8. "Eight" indicates the sanitary requirement for the frequency of air changes in the room per hour. To put it simply, the fan has to pump through the volume of your eight bathrooms. Then there will be purity, beauty and no mold.

Example! For an urban standard bathroom with dimensions of 1.7x1.5x2.5m with an exchange rate of 8, productivity is needed from 51 cubic meters per hour. Axial fans are produced with a capacity of 80 cubic meters. Such a hood will cope with the task even with a margin. The centrifugal model usually "drives" from 42 to 100 cubic meters per hour.

4. Choosing a fan in the bathroom according to the noise level

It is clear that the hoods are noisy, but not very much. If you want a completely quiet one, take an axial model from the Silent line. In their design, the engine is mounted on silent blocks that “extinguish” noise and vibration. Among the "quiet" you can choose a model with a noise level of even 22 dB.

Centrifugal ones work louder because the turbine pumps air under pressure. But they also make moderate noise, approximately like a cooler in a computer. It does not prevent you from watching movies, listening to music or playing games. So the fan will be just a background if you are in the bathroom when it is turned on.

Attention! Noise is a secondary characteristic. The most important thing is that the hood “drives” the required amount of air for a good microclimate and fits the ventilation design.

5. Which bathroom or toilet fan is better - reviews on additional features

Modern technology can do a lot, and fans are produced with various additional functions. Their list includes:

• Additional sensors. They measure humidity or react to movement.
• Sleep timer. It sets the turn-off delay time, minimum 2 minutes - maximum 30.
• Light indicator. Lights up while the fan is running.
• Lanyard switch. You can turn the hood on and off at the right time. For example, when you take a shower or bath. That is, when the light in the bathroom comes on, the fan does not start automatically.
• Automatic blinds. They are used to close the ventilation grill after the duct fan is turned off.
• Check valve. Its main task is to prevent the penetration of foreign odors from the ventilation shaft.

According to the feedback of our customers, most often they take models with humidity sensors and a shutdown timer. The check valve, which blocks the flow of air from the shaft or duct back to the fan, has already become part of the design. Very rarely it is sold separately and is considered an additional option.

6. Degree of moisture protection

All bathroom fans have increased moisture protection within 4-5, dust protection can be either zero or 3-4. The equipment passport will indicate IP X4, 34, 44, 45.

We figured out the characteristics, now let's talk about the range.

Fans for the bathroom and toilet in the website catalog

Our store offers well-known and popular brands of domestic bathroom fans:

Soler & Palau	Blauberg	Fresh	Era	Vents	MMotors JSC

Let's divide them into groups and get to know each other better.

1. For a city bathroom or a bathroom with a standard area, the most popular type of exhaust fan is a model with a capacity of up to 100 m3 / h

The catalog contains:

Mounted axial fans

Soler & Palau

SILENT-100 CZ SILVER DESIGN-3C	SILENT-100 CZ GOLD	SILENT-100 CHZ	SILENT-100CMZ
ECOAIR DESIGN 100H (with humidity sensor)	ECOAIR DESIGN 100M (with lace)	ECOAIR DESIGN 100S (base model)	EDM 80L
SILENT-100 CZ
Power 65-95 m3, noise 26.5-33 dB, in the basic Silent model there is a check valve and quiet running bearings (CZ), in other models, optionally, a timer (R), a humidity sensor (H), a pull cord switch (M) can be added ).

Blauberg

MMotors JSC

Power 60 cubic meters, noise level 25 dB, ultra-thin models with a thickness of 4 cm.

Inline axial fans

For installation in a round duct, channel models are taken. From low-power we offer Bulgarian MMotors JSC

B.O.90	BO90T

Power 50 m3, noise level 36 dB, operating temperature +100-150°С.

Centrifugal fans

Due to the design and the creation of additional traction, such hoods, even at low power, are more efficient than axial ones. They are more expensive, so they are taken less often. Although the "usefulness" of a centrifugal fan quickly pays for its cost.

The main operating mode is minimum speed and minimum power consumption. The hood perfectly “pulls” for a long time in the background, for “duty” cleaning. When the humidity rises, the maximum mode is activated and the air in the bathroom is quickly replaced.

From centrifugal fans we offer the company Era

SOLO 4C era

Three-speed, capacity 42/64/100 m3, noise level 25.8-30 dB, equipped with a check valve and a filter. Suitable for wall/ceiling mounting and air vent mounting.

2. In new houses, with large apartments, townhouses and cottages, bathrooms are more spacious and they are cleaned with exhaust hoods with a capacity of 100 to 400 m3 per hour

Models in the site catalog are:

Axial fans for wall or ceiling

Blauberg

Aero Chrome 100	Aero Still Vintage 125	Aero Still Vintage 150	Aero Still 125
Aero Still 150	Deco 100 (ceiling)

Power 102, 154, 254m3, noise level 31-33-38dB, all models have a check valve, additional options are marked with letters, T - with a timer, ST - with a cord and a timer. Ceiling power from 105 cubic meters, noise 37 dB.

Soler & Polau

Productivity 175, 180, 280, 320m3, noise level in the SILENT series 35-36db, in other models 42-47db.

Productivity 140-183, 250-290m3, noise level 30-33, 36-38dB.

Productivity 110-132m3, noise 17-22dB. Fans of new generation. Equipped with a smart control system, speed switching mode, sensors. They can work automatically according to the built-in program or run in the selected mode via a smartphone or computer.

Duct hoods

Blauberg

Tubo 100	Tubo 125	Tubo 150	Turbo 100
power 137, 245, 361 m3, noise level 38-39-40dB.			two-speed, power 170/220 m3 per hour, noise level - 27/32 dB, wall or ceiling mounting.

Soler & Palau

intelligent, maximum power 106 m3, in quiet mode - 72. noise level 31dB (22 in quiet). Basic humidity control, timer, speed control additionally - work on a motion sensor. Suitable for non-stop ventilation up to 40 m3/h.

Exhaust fan in the bathroom - the best option

If we talk about the choice and answer the question, “which exhaust fan in the bathroom is better?” then there are several optimal options:

• for a regular bathroom with a separate vent;
• for general ventilation of the bathroom;
• for large bathrooms.

The bathroom has direct access to the shaft

The best option is a wall-mounted axial fan with a capacity of up to 100 cubic meters per hour. Take Blauberg or Soler & Palau. In most models there is a check valve, it will protect against the reverse flow of air from the mine when the hood is turned off. And during operation, it will quickly clean the air and do it very quietly (the sound background is within 25-33dB).

Models with a classic design from Blauberg

German hoods are quite a budget option, Spanish ones are both budget and expensive. Although their "high cost" is very conditional. You take equipment that will work for a dozen years, or even more. So, let's divide the price by the life of the fan, and we get the cost as for 10 lunches in a cafe, even for a hood for 6300 rubles.

If the apartment is rented, or you just bought it in an old fund and for now you plan to do without a major overhaul, take an inexpensive fan from Era:

FAVORITE 4	OPTIMA 4

The price is in the range of 400-500 rubles, they pull perfectly, of course they make a louder noise than imported ones, but they will work like clockwork for their 2-3 years.

General ventilation in the bathroom

If the exit to the shaft is in the toilet, an air duct and a duct fan must be installed to extract from the bathroom. The best option would be

Tubo 100 by Blauberg	Silentub 100 by Soler&Palau	Silentub 200 by Soler&Palau

They quickly clean the bathroom from moisture and steam. The air intake from the bathroom and toilet will go through the ceiling grids.

If you want to separate ventilation:

• Install a Deco 100 ceiling fan in the bathroom. Its performance is higher (105m3) than calculated for a standard bathroom (51m3), but it should be so. The hood will have to “drive” air through pipes with a bend, so you need a power reserve for fast air exchange.
• In pairs and for separate ventilation of the toilet, install a duct fan. The Vents iFan D100/125 model will be optimal. It can operate in turbo mode with a capacity of 106 m3 and 72 cubic meters. In addition, there is a mode for constant ventilation, at a minimum power of up to 40 cubic meters per hour.

Deco 100	Vents iFan D100/125

Ventilation for a large bathroom

If the bathroom is large, choose a powerful fan. The best options would be:

Axial outer

Aero Still Vintage 125	INTELLIVENT White	SILENT-300 CHZ

ducted

Tubo 100	TDM100	PRO 4	iFan D100/125

Centrifugal

SOLO 4C

Take outdoor and duct axial fans with a power reserve, as they clean the air faster both directly into the exhaust shaft and through the sleeve. Centrifugal creates increased pressure and a large margin of performance is not needed.

To install a hood in the bathroom, you will have to perform three stages of work.

1. Lay the cable from the switch

A three-core cable is needed, for example, VVG 3X1.5 mm2. It is best to “throw” it in the corrugation under the tiles and in the wall if the bathroom is not yet finished. If the bathroom is finished, then we lay the cable in the corrugation along the main ceiling, you can additionally take the cable channel. We will hide all this “good” behind a suspended or stretch ceiling, after installing and connecting the hood.

2. Fix the fan

When the cable is laid, you need to install the fan in place. The outer one is fixed over the wall, the duct is inside the ventilation hole. Please note that the standard hole width is 10 cm, just for inserting fans with a size marking of 100 mm (diameter of the flange or the device itself). Such a clearance is designed for the passage of air with a volume of up to 100 cubic meters per hour. The power of the hoods connected to the hundredth pipe “fits” into this requirement or slightly exceeds it by 10-15 m3.

Fans with higher performance are connected to air ducts with a diameter of 125 mm or 150-160 mm, and the hole will have to be expanded. Otherwise, the hood or flange simply will not fit into the gap.

Information to think about! Is it possible to put an adapter from the diameter "larger to smaller" for an outdoor fan? You can, but you don't need to. You will get a decent gap between the hood body and the wall. The gap will prevent the fan from being properly fixed. In addition, the back panel, which does not press against the wall, will accumulate moisture and dust. And by "cutting" the width of the gap, you "cut" the bandwidth of the channel. The ratio "channel diameter - fan performance" was not chosen by chance. Your unfortunate hood will try to shove 150-200 cubic meters where only a hundred "crawl through".

Installing a fan in the bathroom - installation methods

The hood can be installed in different ways. Attach the invoice to the wall with self-tapping screws or glue it, insert the channel directly into the hole and fix it or first install the pipe in the gap, and “fix” the fan already in it.

To install an overhead hood, remove the front panel, which is fastened with a screw at the end or with plastic latches. To install on self-tapping screws, mark the holes on the wall with a pencil, then drill and insert dowels. Attach the fan and tighten the screws.

For fastening with glue or liquid nails, apply it along the edge of the case on the fan and on the wall. In order not to miss on the wall, circle the hood around the contour and coat with glue inside the rectangle, slightly stepping back from the edge. Press and fix with masking (mounting) tape so that the glue grabs.

Note! We do not recommend using regular tape because it can leave marks on the wall and the fan itself.

Bring the power cable before fastening to the outside through a special hole. If it is located inconveniently, you can drill your own, in the right place. The front panel is put in place after connecting the power cable.

To install a duct hood, use a piece of duct of equal diameter, into which a fan with a ledge is placed. The hood housing “fits” tightly in the round channel and is fixed without additional fasteners.

If the body is without protrusions, then it is fixed in the pipe with self-tapping screws through special grooves. For such fans, it is more convenient to first insert the hood into a piece of duct, fix it, pull out the cable, and then install the entire assembly into the vent and fix it with mounting foam.

For case-mounted models, the insert is not required. The fan is simply screwed to the hole wall.

3. Connect the fan in the bathroom to the switch

Connecting power to the hood is the most important step. A damp room requires mandatory laying of a cable with grounding. Therefore, use a three-core VVG for one and a half squares (3x1.5 mm2), as for lighting in the bathroom. The electrical power of the fans is not high, usually within 14 watts, and a cross section of 1.5 squares is enough to operate the hood without overheating the cable.

A ground wire is required to divide the working zero on the N bus and the ground zero on the PE. Even if you have an apartment in an old house and there is no ground loop, a PE bus is installed in the shield to connect the "ground". This increases the safety of your electrical wiring and protects against the trouble of electric shock.

How to connect a fan in the bathroom, choose for yourself. If you want to ventilate longer, put the switch on two keys and separate lighting and ventilation.

The connection diagram through a two-gang switch will look like this:

The one-button switch scheme is suitable for infrequent use of the bathroom, for example, in a one-room apartment with one occupant. The hood turns on with the light and turns off in the same way. For additional ventilation, you will have to leave the light burning. It won't generate many kilowatt-hours because of this, unless you fall asleep. But even there, the "lion's share" will be behind the fan, and not the light bulbs in the bathroom.

The connection diagram with a single-gang switch looks like this:

Both schemes are suitable for hoods without additional functions.

Connecting a fan with a timer and other sensors

We will tell you in more detail how to connect a fan with a timer and other sensors to the switch in the bathroom. The main difference in the circuit is that the timer has a separate power supply to start the hood on the signal of a triggered humidity sensor, movement, or the signal of the timer itself in models with a delayed start. Simply put, separate phase / neutral wires go to the fan to the motor and to the timer. The motor circuit is connected to the fan switch button, and the timer circuit is connected to the light switch, and "activates" as soon as the lights in the bathroom come on. If a two-button switch is used. You can turn on such a hood yourself with a button or it will work automatically from the built-in timer.

If the switch is common, then the circuit will be different. When the light is turned on, only the exhaust timer will receive power, and when it works, the fan motor circuit will be closed.

In models without a timer with a humidity sensor, the power is "started" on it.

As you can see, the connection diagrams are quite simple, but do not forget about the installation rules - we connect the wires at the terminals, without twists and protruding ends. We make connections in a junction box or recessed sockets. We put the front panel and insect net in the overhead fans in place correctly, without distortions.

Summing up

What if the "guide" helped, but there were doubts? Contact us! Fans know by sight. We will tell you the installation methods and connection diagrams at any time of the day or night. Like a multiplication table.

Maintaining the necessary level of comfort in the bathroom is a very important task. Constant humidity significantly reduces the service life of finishing materials, adversely affects the appearance of sanitary equipment and mirrors, promotes the appearance of mold and other fungi, and this negatively affects human health. Help solve all these problems bathroom hood. The exhaust fan comes in three designs: axial, centrifugal or radial.

Axial extractor in the bathroom equipped with simple impellers with an impeller and is made, as a rule, in a cylindrical body. In such a fan, the blades capture air currents and move them along the axis. Such fans are in demand due to the ease of installation and a fairly high energy efficiency. Axial models are installed in the wall, directly in the opening of the ventilation shaft.

Centrifugal bathroom hood is a relatively recent invention. These devices combine simplicity of design and ease of use, as well as high power with low noise characteristics, thanks to which they have gained incredible popularity in their short history. Installation of centrifugal fans is usually carried out in a flow ventilation system, under the ceiling. Such models can even be hidden behind plasterboard panels, which is especially important for rooms with high design requirements.

Radial fans are an impeller placed in a spiral casing. Perhaps this type of hood is the quietest and most economical. In addition, centrifugal fans are unpretentious in operating conditions and easily cope with performance overloads.

On the pages of our online store, buyers can get acquainted with models from leading manufacturers bathroom hoods. Price for fans varies in a wide range, so buyers with any income can find suitable equipment here. For the convenience of visitors, the catalog is equipped with product filters, with which you can quickly select bathroom extractor. Buy the device is not difficult: just a few clicks, and you already own a fan, after which it remains only to wait for the delivery of your purchase. Delivery is carried out within the city Moscow and also to the regions.

In any apartment, the bathroom is a place exposed to increased moisture. Harm from an excess of humidity can be caused to human health, the room (especially the door) and all the furniture that is in it. If the ventilation is disturbed, mold can form under the bathroom, which, in addition to the unaesthetic appearance of the walls and the door, can cause an unpleasant odor. Exceeding the permissible humidity levels can lead to allergic reactions, as well as some serious diseases. An extractor hood to the bathroom will help prevent unwanted changes, which is much more efficient than airing with an open door.

The effectiveness of the natural ventilation available in the apartment depends entirely on the design of the access channels and the air flow outlet. The house may have two air ducts for ventilation of the bathroom: one for air supply, the other for exhaust. But the first hole may be missing - in this case, the main load lies on the window ventilation. But for the toilet, this air is not enough even with the door open.

The hood to the bathroom is quite simple in design: it is an elementary forced ventilation system for the bathroom. It consists of two elements: a fan and an air duct connected to the main riser of the house. Choosing a fan in the bathroom should be carefully, taking into account the features of operation. High-quality fans in their performance properties can compete even with air conditioners. At the same time, their price is much lower, and the installation process is simpler. There are two main types of shower and toilet fans on the market: automatic and simple. The second option requires more human participation in the process, but even such ventilation will get rid of moisture under the bathroom. Each type has its own advantages and features.

A simple type is an electric bath fan that is placed in a tubular casing. Many organize the turning on of the fan at the same time as lighting or opening the door. However, this is not the best option, since the hood will work as long as there is a person inside the room. Usually this time is not enough to clean the air space of the shower from moisture. Therefore, it is better to install a separate switch at the door.

Automatic options differ from standard ones in the presence of an electronic unit. Such views can work according to one of the methods. One involves equipping with an off timer, and the other with a built-in humidity sensor. The overhead version of the fan can run on batteries.

Ventilation devices for draining the bathroom, using the first option of operation, are also started by a switch. The bathroom fan with a humidity sensor turns on automatically as soon as the humidity level exceeds the norm, and turns off when the value returns to the allowable range. Such a smart device is convenient, since it does not require human intervention to control the operation of the system. Everything is done by the sensor. When choosing models with a timer, you need to remember that its design must be splashproof. But for the safety of all wiring, it is better to install battery-powered models.

Model with humidity sensor

The main types of hoods in the bathroom

By design, toilet and shower devices are divided into several types: radial and channel, and are also classified into axial and centrifugal. In order not to be mistaken, it is important to know how to choose a bathroom fan.

Radial devices or an overhead fan is a hollow cylinder, inside of which blades are placed. The wheel is located in a casing that receives the discharged air. For a bathroom combined with a toilet, fans are used, the blades in which can be bent in different directions. Devices with backward-curved blades significantly save energy, while those with forward-curved blades are quieter.

Overhead

Axial models outwardly resemble a ring with blades. The bathroom fan justifies its name: the impeller is located on the motor axis. With a sufficiently high performance, such models have small pressure characteristics, and also have a high noise level, reaching 50 dB. Often the fan is installed directly into the opening of the ventilation shaft.

Centrifugal fans, which belong to the duct type, have gained particular popularity due to the possibility of effective use in rooms with a total area of ​​more than 15 square meters. There are devices for ventilation of the bathroom under the ceiling in the flow part of the ventilation system, which allows you to hide it with plasterboard panels. Such devices are suitable for mounting directly above the shower cabin to eliminate moisture. You can install a bathroom fan in front of the entrance to the duct (consignment note) or inside it. But the first option is easier to clean.

Centrifugal

Roof models are designed to be installed on top of a building. Such an overhead version of the hood implies the ventilation of the bathroom, toilet, kitchen. They consist of the following main elements:

• fan;
• engine;
• special gaskets that protect against vibration;
• automatic adjustment device;
• body that combines these elements.

For aesthetic appearance and safety of use, all types of fans must be equipped with a protective element. The grate allows not only to hide the air duct opening, but also to freely clean the ventilation for the bathroom under the ceiling during operation.

The main advantages and disadvantages of various types of fans

Product type	Features of work	Advantages	disadvantages
Axial	The movement of the air mass occurs in one direction - along the axis.	Sufficiently high efficiency. Can be installed directly into the wall. Ease of installation.	Low pressure characteristics. High noise level.
Radial	The movement of air occurs due to the operation of the wheel with blades.	The most silent. The overhead fan is mounted on the ventilation duct.	Two kinds: one is too energy intensive and the other is too noisy.
Centrifugal (channel)	The air mass is directed through strictly defined channels.	High power. Low noise level.	Models built into the duct are difficult to clean. High level of electricity consumption.
Rooftop	A complex system for moving the air flow using several elements of the device.	Suitable for large rooms. Allows you to ventilate the air not only in the shower room, but also in the toilet and kitchen. High performance.	The complexity of designing and installing the system. Cannot be used in an apartment. Difficulty cleaning.

After purchasing the device, it is necessary to decide who will install the fan. If you decide to install the system yourself, you need to take into account that the installation involves: laying a cable, expanding the air duct (if necessary), connecting to an electrical cable, installing the device in a duct, sealing voids with foam and puttying.

Features of choosing fan models

Many are faced with the problem: how to choose a fan for the bathroom yourself? When choosing models, it is necessary to build on the following parameters that affect the operation of the device:

• device performance;
• noise level;
• safety of use;
• functionality;
• value for money.

Choosing a fan for the bathroom begins with measuring the area of ​​​​the room. The design of the device is also important, because the complexity of maintenance depends on it (it will have to be cleaned periodically).

Features of ventilation in a private house

In a private house, it is especially necessary to maintain comfortable conditions. But the presence of rooms with high humidity and a toilet requires a special approach to the issue of air circulation. It is necessary not only to ventilate the rooms by opening the door, but also to ventilate the sewer. Efficient sewer ventilation will eliminate the risk of ruptures in the toilet and other emergency situations, because it is used to remove gases, and also maintains optimal pressure inside the pipeline during flushing.

Sewer ventilation using a fan pipe can be displayed both on the side of the house and on the roof.

Forced ventilation in a private house

Additional features of modern hoods

Standard and automatic models with a timer for the shower room and toilet can be equipped with various useful options. The most popular is the valve that prevents the reverse penetration of air into the rooms. Such an additional option is necessary for high-rise buildings so that smells from neighboring apartments (rooms) do not get inside. And residents of a private house will appreciate the adjustable diffuser, which, by changing the position of the central washer, controls the amount of air mass thrown out into the street.

Video

If the mirrors and walls in the bathroom constantly fog up, the air is stale, and mold appears every now and then in the corners, this means that natural ventilation cannot cope with its task. Solving this problem is simple - you need to install an exhaust fan. The choice of modern exhaust devices is very wide - from the simplest to silent models with timers and sensors. To ensure the most efficient air exchange in the room, you need to know by what criteria it is worth choosing fans and how to install them correctly.

The design of the exhaust fan is quite simple: housing, motor, impeller with blades. There are models equipped with a check valve that does not allow foreign odors from other apartments to enter the room, which is very important for high-rise buildings.

The air duct of the exhaust device is connected to the general ventilation system or is output separately through the wall to the outside. According to the mounting method, all exhaust fans are divided into ceiling and wall, as well as built-in and overhead.

Ceiling ones are less in demand, although they are distinguished by high performance and simple installation. Such a fan is capable of actively circulating a large volume of air, so it is great for spacious bathrooms. But most consumers still choose wall-mounted models, both built-in and overhead. They are easy to install, easy to use, easy to clean and replace. Due to their compact size and modern case design, they look quite aesthetically pleasing, fitting perfectly into any interiors.

Depending on the internal device, fans are divided into:

• electrical– simple models with built-in or external switch. That is, the residents of the apartment must independently turn the device on and off as needed. A very common option is when such a fan is connected to a general switch in the bathroom, and then the hood turns on simultaneously with the lamps. True, in this case, moisture does not always have time to completely go into the ventilation, but electricity consumption is reduced;
• automatic- exhaust devices equipped with special sensors. Models with humidity sensors automatically turn on as soon as the moisture level exceeds the norm, and turn off when the condensate has completely evaporated. Models with motion sensors turn on when a person appears and turn off when the room is empty. There are also automatic fans with timers that operate only for a predetermined interval of time.

Exhaust fans are also classified according to the type of construction. In the domestic sphere, the most popular are axial and channel devices that are suitable for multi-storey and private houses.

In axial fans, the movement of air occurs along the axis of rotation of the blades, which is the reason for such a name. The design is very simple: a body (usually cylindrical), an impeller with blades, an electric motor. Many models have a front-mounted manifold that improves aerodynamic properties. The structure of the blades reduces the resistance to air flow, so the fan has a high efficiency. According to the type of installation, such devices can be both wall-mounted and ceiling-mounted.

Most modern axial fans are characterized by low power consumption and reduced noise levels, unlike previous generation models. They can work for a long time without stopping, are easy to clean, and have an attractive design. For these devices to be effective, the length of the air duct should not exceed 4 m. The same applies to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom - the smaller the room, the more efficient the hood.

axial exhaust fan

Duct fans

For bathrooms of a large area, ducted or centrifugal fans are best suited. Their design differs markedly from axial devices: inside the cylindrical body there is a drum with many narrow curved blades. With the help of centrifugal force generated by the blades during rotation, the air is drawn inward and directed to the ventilation duct.

Such fans work effectively with air ducts with a length of 4 meters or more, they are installed both on the ceiling and on the wall (depending on the modification). The extraction can be carried out continuously, but usually the device is connected to a switch in the bathroom or to a humidistat. This saves energy and extends the life of the fan. Many models are designed for concealed installation and are relatively quiet, so that they are almost invisible in the bathroom.

duct exhaust fan

Advantages and disadvantages

If you still doubt the advisability of installing such fans in the bathroom, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the advantages of exhaust devices:

• condensation will no longer accumulate on walls and other surfaces, dampness will leave the room;
• installation will not require much effort and time, even a beginner can cope with it;
• modern models of fans are very compact, so they are suitable for even the smallest bathrooms;
• thanks to modern design and discreet design, exhaust fans will harmoniously fit into any style of interior;
• most models are equipped with a protective mesh, which eliminates the ingress of insects and small objects inside the case, which means that you will have to clean the device less often;
• the front panel can be easily removed for fan maintenance - cleaning the blades and lubricating the motor.

As for the shortcomings, there are very few of them:

• fans cannot work absolutely silently, and their buzz can annoy some consumers;
• electricity consumption increases, albeit slightly;
• The device requires regular cleaning and lubrication to function properly.

Also, a lot depends on the correct installation: if the fan is not positioned correctly, the air circulation is disturbed, and there is nothing to say about a high-quality hood.

Exhaust fan selection rules

So, if the decision to buy a fan is made, you need to choose the right model so as not to be disappointed later. You need to choose at once according to several parameters - performance, safety, noise level and, of course, in terms of quality-price ratio.

Performance

This criterion is the main one, because the efficiency of air exchange depends on it. Here it is important to choose the right power of the device relative to the area, since the same fan gives a different result in a small and large bathroom. According to building codes, the air exchange rate for a bathroom is 6-8 units, that is, in an hour the entire volume of air in the room should change from 6 to 8 times. As a rule, if no more than three people use the bathroom, they choose a multiplicity of 6, if more than three - a multiplicity of 8. The calculations are not difficult to perform: you need to find the volume of the room and multiply it by the air exchange rate.

For example: there is a bathroom with dimensions of 1.9x1.7 m and a height of 2.65 m, 3 people use it. We calculate the volume of the room - 1.9x1.7x2.65 \u003d 8.56 m. Round up to 9 and multiply by the multiplicity - 9x6 \u003d 54 m3.

It turns out that for such a bathroom, a device with a capacity of 54 m3 / h will be the best choice. Of course, it is not always possible to find a model that best matches the calculated parameters, so you can choose a fan with a small margin of performance.

Security

For bathrooms and toilets, fans are produced with additional protection of electrical contacts from moisture, which must be indicated in the instructions and on the packaging. If you put an ordinary model, and water gets into it, this can cause a short circuit and even a fire, so you can’t risk it in any case.

Now you can find low-voltage extractors specifically designed for bathrooms and saunas. They have moisture and thermal protection, and can work effectively at 100% humidity and high temperatures. True, the cost of such fans is higher, and they cannot be connected to a conventional electrical network, which entails additional costs, but the safety of the residents is worth it.

Noise level

The noise produced by the fan should not exceed 30 dB, otherwise it will irritate the household. If you plan to turn on the fan at night, choose a model with a noise level of up to 25 dB. The lower this indicator, the more comfortable you will be in the bathroom with the hood turned on. This is especially true for those whose fan runs continuously.

As for the quality of fans, it is better to focus on well-known trade brands, whose products have already been tested by time. For example, household fans of the brand Soler & Palau (Spain), VENTS (Ukraine), Electrolux (Sweden) have a lot of positive reviews.

These companies value their reputation, so their products are of high build quality and durability. The main thing is to buy fans in specialized stores, where they can present an appropriate certificate for the product and issue a warranty card. So you avoid the risk of buying a cheap fake, not branded equipment.

Additional Fan Features

A photo	Name of add. functions
	Timer
	Hydrostat or bathroom fan with humidity sensor
	Motion Sensor
	Constant ventilation
	Clock on the front of the fan
	check valve

How to install an exhaust fan yourself

Exhaust fans - photo

The process of installing the fan itself takes a minimum of time, but before that you need to properly prepare everything, think over the connection method, and, if necessary, lay a cable for power supply. All wiring should be located in strobes and hidden under the cladding to eliminate the slightest risk of contact with water. If the fan is ceiling, and the ceiling itself is suspended, then there is no need for strobes: the wiring is attached directly to the ceiling, fixed with special clamps. Of course, all wires must be in the corrugation.

To connect the fan, a three-core VVG cable is usually used - it allows you to supply zero, ground and phase to the device from the switch.

Moreover, the switch can be either single-key or two-key. The second option is preferable: you can turn the fan on and off regardless of the light.

If you do not have experience with electrical wiring, you should invite a professional electrician for this, because any mistake or negligence can lead to serious consequences. After the cable is laid, you can proceed with the installation of the fan.

For work you will need:

• Bulgarian;
• drill with drills for tiles and concrete;
• pencil;
• connecting terminals;
• regular and indicator screwdrivers.

Step 1. Unpack the fan, check its integrity and completeness. Usually fasteners are included, but if they are missing, you should buy self-tapping screws and plastic dowels in advance.

Step 2 Prepare the vent. If it was covered with a cladding, you need to attach the fan housing to the tile and carefully circle it with a pencil. After that, a cut is made along the contour with the help of a grinder. If the hole was open, you need to clean it of dust and debris, make sure that the fan enters well and does not cling to the edges.

Step 3 Remove the front panel and the inner cover of the fan from the device, put them aside. Now you need to mark up the fasteners. To do this, the fan is inserted into the hole until it stops, aligned, guided by the seams of the tile or the building level, and points are marked with a pencil through the holes in the case.

If the fan has a rope-switch, you need to dismantle it

Step 4. A drill with a victorious tip is inserted into the drill and carefully, at low speeds, drill through the tile at the marked points. Then they change the drill and, in the hammer drill mode, they go deep into the concrete. The finished holes are cleaned of dust and plastic dowels are inserted into them.

Step 5 Once again try on the fan to the hole and determine where the cable will pass. In this place, a semicircular groove is cut out with a grinder, corresponding in size to the cross section of the wire. A hole for the wire is also drilled on the body of the device.

Step 6 The fan is brought to the wall, an electric wire is threaded through the hole in the case, then it is brought into the groove and the fan is inserted. Fix it to the wall with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Screw for fixing the fan

Advice. In order not to drill the wall, you can fix the fan with silicone sealant. The device weighs a little, moreover, it is partially held by the wall, so such a mount is quite enough. The main thing is that the sealant is of high quality and waterproof.

Sealing wiring

Step 8 Close the fan with a lid, which is screwed in the center with one screw, and then turn on the power and check the operation of the device. Now it remains only to insert the protective grid and secure the front panel. Many masters prefer to do without a mesh, as it quickly becomes dirty and stops passing air. To avoid this, you have to regularly remove it and rinse with water.

Fixing the decorative cover with a bolt

This completes the installation of the fan. In the process of use, you will have to clean the ventilation grille and blades from accumulated dust from time to time. If, after cleaning, the hood works poorly, this indicates that the exhaust channel is clogged. In apartment buildings, it is impossible to fix such a problem on your own and you need to call a specialist. But in a private home, cleaning the ventilation system is much easier, so many homeowners do it on their own.

Video - Exhaust fan in the bathroom

Video - Installing an exhaust fan