Do-it-yourself repair of a perforator. How to repair a perforator quickly at home Repair a Baikal perforator with your own hands

Different models of rotary hammers have design features that distinguish them from each other - depending on the manufacturer, power and functionality of the tool. However, despite these differences, all perforators contain the same components and systems that ensure their performance. main function. The main components of the perforator include: an electric motor, a gearbox, an impact mechanism and a cartridge. In addition, there are auxiliary systems and mechanisms that expand the capabilities of rotary hammers or make their operation more convenient and safe - an anti-vibration system, a "vario-lock" device (Vario-Lock - a mechanism for fixing the tool in a certain position), a mechanism for limiting the drilling depth, a dust removal system, mechanism for switching operating modes, etc.

Engine location

As motors in perforators, as a rule, collector electric motors are used. The motors are placed in two positions: horizontal and vertical.

The horizontal layout is used, as a rule, in light perforators, the vertical one - in medium and heavy ones. However, there are exceptions. The heavy Metabo KHE 96 rotary hammer weighs almost 12 kg and has horizontal arrangement engine.

The tool with a horizontal layout is more compact and convenient to work in tight spaces. However, this design is characterized by an increased shock load on the engine and somewhat worse conditions its cooling.

Vertical layout provides Better conditions engine operation (shock vibration reduction and effective cooling), as well as a wider range of piston and striker movement due to the ability to use a crank mechanism with an increased piston stroke instead of a oscillating bearing.

Vertically mounted rock drills are capable of handling more intensive work than horizontally mounted models.

Impact mechanism

The most important node of the perforator is the percussion mechanism, which provides the main percussion function of the tool. According to the type of execution, it can be electromechanical and electropneumatic. The latter type is used in the vast majority of models of modern rotary hammers. It allows you to get a significant impact energy of the tool with minimal engine power.

There are two main versions of the impact electro-pneumatic mechanism - using a swinging ("drunk") bearing or a crank mechanism. The first option is used for light and, partially, medium punchers, the second - for medium and heavy ones.

The figure below shows a diagram of a light type perforator. Its impact mechanism consists of an oscillating bearing, a piston, a ram and a striker.

Perforator impact mechanism device: 1 - drunken bearing, 2 - piston, 3 - ram, 4 - drummer (striker), 5 - engine gear.

During the operation of the rotary hammer, the rotation from the electric motor is transmitted to the inner sleeve of the oscillating bearing. At the same time, its outer sleeve, together with a perpendicular axis connected to the piston, performs oscillatory movements. Between the piston and the ram there is an air space, which, thanks to the alternately created in it high blood pressure and rarefaction, makes the ram repeat the oscillatory movements of the piston, striking the striker. The latter, in turn, strikes the tool in the cartridge. Thus, the energy of the electric motor is transformed into the impact energy of the tool.

The pneumatic percussion mechanism is equipped with a self-shutdown function when idling. At a time when the tool (drill, drill, crown) is not pressed against the surface to be treated, the ram moves forward, opening a hole in the body for air inlet and outlet. As a result, compression and rarefaction are not created in the working air cavity, the percussion mechanism is turned off, and the perforator works without impacts. When the tool is pressed on the surface to be treated, the hole is blocked by a ram, compression occurs in the air cavity, and the impact mechanism begins to function.

In medium and heavy rotary hammers with a vertical engine layout, the piston is driven by a crank mechanism. The increased amplitude of piston movement contributes to a higher impact power, which in heavy perforators can reach 20 J. The impact mechanism works in the same way as described above.

The device of the impact mechanism of the perforator: 1 - crank mechanism, 2 - piston, 3 - ram, 4 - drummer (striker), 5 - nozzle (drill, chisel, etc.).

At the end of the article there is a video demonstrating the operation of the percussion mechanism..

The figure below shows the device of a domestic-made rotary hammer Progress PE-40/1050, with a power of 1050 W, with a vertical engine and a crank drive of the percussion mechanism. The rotation from the engine through the worm shaft is transmitted to the helical gear, on the shaft of which there is a crank that drives the piston.

Anti-vibration system

Hammer drill manufacturers are developing new anti-vibration systems. Vibration protection systems are divided into active and passive. Active anti-vibration systems (often marked AVS) are installed only on powerful models. To dampen vibration, a simple principle is used: usually it is a shock-absorbing device, a counterweight with a spring, which takes on the recoil. True, this system is not able to completely absorb vibration, it only seriously reduces it.

At the end of the article there is a video demonstrating the operation of an active anti-vibration system..

In addition, the handle can also be responsible for damping vibration: from below it is attached to the body with a hinge, and from above through a spring mechanism. A passive anti-vibration system means the usual rubber pads on the case, which also protect against slipping of the hand. However, we must admit that the sense of the overlays is not too great.

Perforator circuit diagram

Exist different ways perforator motor rotation speed control. The speed of rotation of the engine can be adjusted by changing the force of pulling the trigger, and can also be selected on the dial before starting work. If the rotary hammer has a special circuit, the rotation speed will be the same under any load.

Frame

The body of the puncher is made of metal (usually aluminum or magnesium alloys) or impact-resistant plastic. Most often, both are combined. metal case stronger than plastic and conducts heat well, providing effective cooling of the tool. According to the laws of physics, air heats up during compression, so it is important to ensure the necessary cooling of the percussion mechanism during the operation of the perforator. To do this, part of the air from the fan wheel passes through the percussion mechanism. This prevents excessive heating of the body of the perforator and maintains sufficient viscosity of the lubricant in the mechanism. To exclude burns from heated metal, various plastic linings are used.

Safety clutch

Usually rotary hammers are equipped with a safety clutch, which serves to stop the rotation of the cartridge when the tool is jammed in the hole. This condition is fraught with breakage of the nozzle or perforator and injury to the worker due to a sharp jerk of the tool that occurs when the drill stops instantly. The safety coupling protects against overloads and the electric motor of the tool. When the drill stops, the engine armature also stops, which leads to a sharp increase in electric current in his wrap. The coupling that disconnects the punch chuck from the motor shaft prevents the motor from burning out.

Two types of clutches are used as safety clutches in perforators: friction and spring-cam. The first consist of disks, normally pressed against each other and transmitting torque. When the tool is jammed, the disks slip relative to each other, disconnecting the motor shaft from the chuck with the nozzle. The friction clutch is used, for example, in Metabo models.

Many firms use safety clutches of the spring-cam type. They consist of two half-couplings having radially located protrusions and cavities (teeth) at the ends, which are combined during normal operation. The clamping of the coupling halves to each other is provided by a spring. The principle of operation of the spring-cam clutch is based on slipping of the coupling halves relative to each other in the event that the moment of resistance begins to exceed the pressing force of the spring. At the same time, a characteristic crack is heard, signaling that the nozzle is jammed.

It is believed that the spring-cam clutch is more reliable than the friction clutch, however, it also has a serious drawback. It lies in the fact that during operation, the tips of the teeth are rolled, which leads to the operation of the clutch even if the nozzle is not jammed, but only there is a lot of resistance. Some craftsmen cope with this problem by placing a washer 3-5 mm thick under the spring, which increases the compression force of the spring and, consequently, the moment of operation of the clutch. However, excessive "rigidity" of the coupling is also undesirable, since it makes the tool jerk too strong when the nozzle is jammed, which can lead to injury to the hands of people working with the puncher.

Perforator reducer

The rotary hammer gearbox transfers rotational motion from the engine to the chuck and drives the impact mechanism of the tool. It consists of a set of cylindrical, bevel and worm gears. Most often, rotary hammer gearboxes have a constant gear ratio. Regulation of the number of revolutions of the cartridge and the frequency of impacts is provided by an electronic regulator. However, models with two-speed gearboxes are also available.

The gearbox is lubricated with grease, which is filled into the gearbox during initial assembly and during Maintenance or repair - at those moments when the punch is disassembled.

Video demonstrating the perforator device:

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The puncher always works in difficult conditions and after a while can fail. You can buy a cheap fake again, but you can’t just throw away a branded model just like that. In order not to pay a “round” amount for repairing, you can repair the puncher with your own hands. But for this it is necessary to imagine what components the tool consists of, the procedure for disassembling it and the possible replacement of certain parts.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Screwdrivers Tweezers Pliers

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How is a perforator

Any electromechanical device eventually becomes unusable. If you have certain skills, then you can try to do the repair yourself. To do this, you need to know the principle of operation and the device of perforators, which are divided into two types:

The engine is installed horizontally.

The motor is upright.

For repairs, it doesn't really matter. All other details are almost identical. Any device consists of two main parts:

Electrical:

power cord;
elements that dampen interference (capacitor, chokes);
switch;
engine control device (UUD);
commutator motor (anchor, brushes).

In some models, the switch is combined with the control device.

Mechanical:

gearbox (gear) on the motor shaft;
clutch;
shock-translational mechanism pneumatic (piston) or mechanical;
clamping chuck.

In expensive devices, for convenience and safety, auxiliary mechanisms are installed:

depth limit;
a vacuum cleaner;
mode switch;
bit fixation
others.

How to repair a perforator with your own hands?

Many people who are ignorant of technology, bringing a tool for repair, always describe the breakdown with the words “the hammer has stopped hammering” or “it does not turn on”. And only with meticulous questioning do they remember that they put a lot of pressure on it, did not lubricate it, worked with network fluctuations (during operation, the “light blinked”). All this causes the failure of the device and the appearance of damage, which are divided into:

Electrical:

the device does not turn on;
sparks are visible in the case;
turns do not change;
smoke is coming out of the hull;
when turned on, it knocks out (automatic) plugs.

Mechanical:

the puncher does not hammer;
a rattle or crack is heard;
modes are not switched;
fluid leaks out of the machine during operation.

Proper disassembly of the perforator

To repair a particular malfunction, any electromechanical device must be disassembled. Each model has its own nuances in execution. And although the bodies of almost all tools are made from two halves, the way of disassembling one brand may not work for the model of another.

The cases of many models are made of front and rear half, when viewed from the side of the cartridge. The screws tightening the body are parallel to the chiseling axis, and if the caliber of the cartridge is smaller than the diameter of the body, then it is easy to unscrew them. But on many devices, the diameters are the same. Therefore, you must first remove the cartridge, and then disassemble the rest.

For other models, the case is disassembled from the side. We unscrew the screws, remove half of the case and all the mechanics, as "in the palm of your hand." You can start checking right away. True, to repair the electrical part, you will need to unscrew the handle, but this is not so difficult. The main points of disassembly-assembly can be found on the Internet on the service "YOUTUBE". Therefore, we proceed directly to the repair.

Electrical faults and their elimination

The device does not turn on for the following reasons:

Broken cord (usually at the handle itself). The cord should be replaced or shortened, stripped, carefully threaded into the rubber seal-shock absorber on the handle and soldered to the appropriate places.
Bad contact in the switch (for example, oxidation).
Breakage (combustion) of extinguishing elements. They should be replaced. For a while (if there are no such elements), you can connect the engine "directly" to the UUD. Please note - this method can lead to rapid wear of the motor.
The combustion of the UUD itself. Change to a new one.
Breakage or burning of windings. It must be taken to a workshop or a friend for rewinding.

Advice: Breakage of the cord or windings, non-contact of the switch and combustion of extinguishing elements, check with a tester.

Sparks are visible inside the case. Calls them:

Bad fit of the brushes to the armature due to wear. It is necessary to change the brushes or sharpen them with a needle file (fine "skin").
Anchor oxidation. To be cleaned with a student's rubber band or alcohol.

The revolutions do not change due to a malfunction of the UUD. To be replaced, but you can do without it for a while.
Smoke comes from a malfunction of the windings, brushes or other elements. For example, due to the "jamming" of the motor, the windings begin to heat up and smoke. Required visual inspection
Plugs can be knocked out by shorting a cord (insulation breakdown) or a switch.

Mechanical faults and their elimination

There is no single answer to the natural question why the punch does not hammer. This can happen for the reasons below:

The main function is not executed (does not hammer).

Breakage of any of the metal parts inside many models in this sequence.

After inspection and detection of a malfunction, the unusable part is changed.

Leakage of fluid from the cylinder due to damage to the gaskets. Change gasket.
Dirt getting inside. Clean tool.
Solidification of lubricant. Remove old grease and apply a new coat.
Gearbox failure. Once identified, replace.
Bearing failure. Replace

A rattle or crack is heard due to the following reasons:

Bad lubrication. Be sure to change to the same. It is forbidden to use grease and other lubricants of this type.
Crack in bearings or gears. Change.
The details worked out. For example, the fingers of the mode switch. change switch

Modes are not switching due to what happened:

wear or breakage of switch fingers.

The switch needs to be replaced, but for a while you can turn the worn finger 180 degrees.

breakdown seats. Be sure to change the switch.
broken caps. Replace.

Spontaneous change of modes occurs due to a breakdown of the latch. Some people continue to work in this mode, but it is best to replace the latch.

Fluid may leak due to deformation (rupture) of the gearbox or cylinder gaskets. After identifying a faulty gasket, it should be replaced.

Prevention at work

The shock-translational device and the gearbox of the device are subjected to heavy loads. Assemblies heat up during operation, seals rub against moving parts and wear out. All this leads to malfunctions. To avoid premature failure of the device, the following instructions must be observed:

once every six months, completely change the lubricant of the gearbox;
once every 6 months, remove the brushes, inspect and replace them if necessary;
after work, blow the insides with a vacuum cleaner;
before work, do not forget to lubricate the rear end of the drill (chisel). If this is not done, the striker and seals will wear out quickly.

Advice: Do not apply pressure to the instrument. With pressure, the stroke of the striker decreases, it begins to beat faster. Because of this, the striker and seals become unusable.

Any tool, including a puncher, requires special care for yourself and careful use. Therefore, each owner of such an electric tool is obliged to regularly inspect the unit, to know how to disassemble the hammer. It is quite possible to disassemble and repair the device at home without spending a penny on the services of a specialist.

A hammer drill is an indispensable tool at any construction site, but due to careless use, it wears out very quickly and fails. This is due to the large loads on the tool. As we know, the rock drill often works at full power in the most difficult conditions. Due to such loads, even branded models are susceptible to breakage. Therefore, each owner of this device should know how to repair a perforator with their own hands.

Like any other technical device, the puncher can be repaired, for this it is not necessary to carry it to a specialized workshop. Although not every man knows how to repair a hammer drill, it doesn’t matter! This article will help you do your own repairs without outside help.

The most common cause of tool breakage is a broken wire. Due to simple inattention, people pay considerable money for a trifle at a rotary hammer repair service. An elementary inspection is enough to understand that the tool has broken conditionally, that it can be easily repaired by yourself without outside help.

Is self-repair feasible?

Not always a visual inspection will help to identify the cause of the breakdown. In this case, the next step will be the analysis of the perforator. If the device has served for many years and is of no significant value, you can try to find the cause of the breakdown by disassembling the tool for individual parts. Feel free to proceed with offline repair if the cause of the tool malfunction is visible visually and you already have an idea about the filling of perforators. If the device was purchased relatively recently, and the model itself is more modern and costs a lot of money, then it is best to contact service center, after all, self-repair can not only repair the device, but cause harm. If the inspection of the unit did not reveal a breakdown, then it is necessary to wait a while with the repair of the perforator. In the latter case, it will not be superfluous to consult an experienced specialist.

Symptoms of hardware problems

Any irregularities in the operation of the tool have their own causes that should be detected. A person who has purchased a tool, for example, from Bosch or Sparky, expects the appropriate high score work, as from every foreign, quality product. To eliminate the risk of serious damage, you need to know the principle of operation of the device. For some characteristics you can identify the cause of the breakdown and prevent a larger problem from occurring.

Signs:

The smell of burning from the device.
During operation, pauses occur or small short circuits occur.
The device does not turn on the first time or works intermittently.
The appearance of extraneous noise when working with the device. At the same time, such noises were not noticed before.

Any of the above signs should not be ignored. Proceed to find out the cause of the failure of the unit. For trouble-free operation over a long period, you should carefully monitor and care for the tool. To repair the device, you should study the components of the perforator and learn how to disassemble and assemble it.

Tool disassembly and assembly + (Video)

A damaged wire on the device, as well as other small mechanical damage, can be special work notice. If you make a thorough inspection of the parts of the tool, then it is not difficult to see other minor malfunctions that led to the breakdown of the device. With more serious problems disassembly of the perforator is required. And upon completion repair work- as well as the assembly of the puncher. The second operation in some cases is more complicated than the first - the appearance of extra parts after assembly will indicate repair miscalculations. To prevent this from happening, you need to not only know how to properly fix the punch, but also how to assemble it. It is important to be attentive and careful during instrument repair, then in 99% of cases the repair will be successful!

To proceed with the repair of the perforator, including the barrel type, you should correctly disassemble the device:

Removing the rubber tip and ring spring. After that, we proceed to remove the casing of the drill coupling itself.
Carefully pull out the steel ball, which acts as a fixation.
Removing the switch handle, having previously placed the operating mode lever in the maximum position. Press the position lock button.
Removing the lining (rear) on the handle.
Removing the motor brush.
Removing the front part, for which you need to unscrew the 4 screws located near the drill.
We take out the rotor. To do this, unscrew the crepes located on the stator, after which we unfasten 4 terminals from the stator contacts.
We take out the remaining parts.

In some cases, if the problem lies in the gearbox or impact mechanism, we additionally unscrew the end of the gearbox housing, after which we carefully remove the casing made of plastic. To keep the parts in place, it is best to do this whole process with the tool on its side.

Do-It-Yourself Repair + (Video)

In most cases, repairs consist of replacing broken and defective parts. But there are other problems in the operation of the tool:

Breakdown of the winding. To solve the problem, rewind the armature and stator.
Wear of brushes. In this case, they resort to disassembling the punch and replacing worn parts.
Deterioration of the anther of the perforator. It cannot be repaired, only replaced.
Perforator cartridge. The problem will be noticeable if its rim starts to constantly slow down the rotation. To be replaced.
Bad lubrication. Periodically check the oil level in the tray. Some parts of the tool should also be lubricated: the intermediate shaft, the gear of the gearbox.
Bearing wear. Bearings gradually collect dust and dirt during operation, the lubricant thickens, they begin to overheat and, as a result, fail. To be replaced.

If the breakdown is serious, and you have no repair experience, the best way for you - contact experienced craftsmen. Do not start repairs if you are not sure that you can independently identify the cause of the breakdown, and are not able to solve it!

A professional construction tool always works in extreme conditions, therefore, both the mechanical and electrical parts of the perforator have an increased working life.

As practice shows, a tool from brands such as Makita, Bosch or Interskol rarely fails during the warranty period, but sooner or later everything breaks down.

One of the most vulnerable points of any puncher is the power button with a speed controller and a reverse switch.

There are three types of button breakage:

Mechanical failure. As a rule, it occurs when a tool falls from a height and other impacts on the body of the punch. Since plastic is practically not amenable to bonding, the only option for a reliable repair will be a complete replacement of the button;
Burned contacts on the button. In this case, replacement is also indispensable;
Soot formed on the contacts of the start button. If the plastic body of the trigger itself was not damaged, cleaning the contacts will help solve the problem.

How to check punch start button?

To do this, you can use an electric multimeter (tester): you need to connect to the ends of the plug of the perforator and press the start button.

If the multimeter shows the presence of resistance, then the circuit of the power tool is intact. The absence of resistance indicates a violation of the integrity of the circuit.

At the same time, you need to understand that the problem may not only be in the switch button. You should also check electrical cable for the presence of kinks, the degree of wear of the carbon brushes and reverse switching contacts.

This is the only way to make sure that the reason lies precisely in the switch.

Repair instructions - replacing and connecting a punch button on the example of Makita 2450

Most perforators MAKITA(on models HR2020, 2432, 2440, 2440F, 2450, 2455, 2475 and 2641) uses a generic TG813TLB-1 series circuit breaker.

To carry out its revision and / or replacement, it is necessary to prepare the following tools:

cross screwdriver;
awl or knitting needle.

The procedure for repairing / replacing the power button on the Makita 2450 punch is as follows:

Parsing electrical part tool. To do this, unscrew the three mounting screws on the back side handles and remove the plastic cover.
Next, you need to fold back the brushes and remove the TG813TLB-1 switch itself.
To disconnect the switch, you must remove all wires from it. The network wires (brown and blue) are fastened with a screw clamp and there are no problems with them - to recline two wires, it is enough to loosen two screws. The remaining wires are attached to self-clamping connectors, and in order to remove the wire, you need a knitting needle or an awl, which are inserted into a special hole and open the clamp. All wires are removed in the same way. For repairs, it will not be superfluous to have a punch button connection diagram on hand, so we strongly recommend that you draw a conditional diagram or take photos on a smartphone before removing the wires so that there are no questions when connecting a new button.
Connecting a new button. The wires are simply inserted into the automatic clamps until they stop, the mains wires are fixed with screws.
Next, you need to install the button in the mounting hole, put the brushes back in place, install and secure the back cover of the handle with three screws.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Often even professional equipment quickly fails. This is due to the operation of the tool with a significant overload of the electric motor. Overheating of the power unit must not be allowed; technological pauses must be made periodically. Sometimes a serious damage to the hammer is the result of careless handling of the tool during operation or during storage.

After each use, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the perforator from dust. soft cloth or a napkin, you should wipe not only the body of the power tool, but also the ventilation slots.

It is unacceptable to use the hammer drill outdoors during rain and snow.

Carbon brushes, which are a critical part of the electrical circuit, should be regularly inspected - they conduct current to the collector and gradually wear out during operation and require replacement.

Do not buy non-original components of dubious quality, which can lead to more significant damage.

The puncher is a complex device consisting of electrical and mechanical components. Continuous operation of this unit can lead to various breakdowns and malfunctions, especially if preventive maintenance is not performed. To extend the life of the tool, as well as to eliminate unforeseen breakdowns, you should periodically disassemble the rotary hammer and carry out diagnostics. If it happens that the puncher refuses to function, then you should not rush to purchase a new unit, even if your tool is already ten years old. It can be taken to a repair shop, but the cost of services will be quite high. This article will tell you how to repair a puncher yourself.

Repairing a puncher with your own hands is not difficult, especially if you have some knowledge of electrical engineering. This unit is a device that Electric Energy becomes mechanical. This means that breakdowns can occur both in the electrical and mechanical parts. The device of the perforator resembles the design of an electric drill, only instead of a primitive gearbox of a pair of gears, it has a whole gearbox mechanism. Through this mechanism, the torque from the motor shaft is converted into reciprocating movements.

Wear or breakage can occur in any part of the perforator. Before proceeding with repair actions, it is important to assess the type and cause of the breakdown. This important condition from which repair activities should begin. It is often not difficult to determine the type of breakdown, but sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the device case for this.

The perforator has its own weak spots resulting in breakdowns in most cases. Sometimes breakdowns occur due to the master himself, if the device is operated incorrectly, or unforeseen situations arise during operation. It is necessary to highlight the main types of malfunctions in the electrical and mechanical parts of the perforator. Common types of mechanical failures include:

No rotation or drilling function.
Nozzle stuck in chuck.
The nozzle is not fixed in the cartridge.
The occurrence of extraneous noise during the operation of the unit.

Electrical faults include:

No sign of engine running.
Reinforced sparking brushes.
The appearance of a burning smell.
The appearance of smoke during the operation of the tool.

When starting to repair a hammer drill, you should first clean its body from dirt. This is necessary in order to prevent dust and dirt from entering the instrument.

Electrical faults

Before you disassemble the puncher, you need to find out what the cause of the malfunction is.
After all, if the puncher refuses to work, then the reason may be hiding in the banal lack of voltage in the outlet. That's right, troubleshooting should start from the smallest to the largest. If the tool does not function and does not show any signs of life, then the reason is 100% hidden in the electrical part. Consider the main types of malfunctions of the electrical part of the puncher, and also find out the features of their elimination.

The stator winding can be rewound at home if you have an idea about its functioning. Rewinding the stator will cost several times cheaper than buying a new electric motor.

It's important to know! When disassembling a power tool, remember that it must be disconnected from the mains.

Mechanical breakdowns

Disassembly of the perforator may also be required in the event of mechanical breakdowns. Before proceeding with repair actions, you must first make sure that the breakdown lies precisely in the mechanics of the perforator. Consider the main points of mechanical malfunctions of the perforator, as well as the features of their elimination:

These are the main mechanical components that can cause tool failure. In addition, there are other types of mechanical failures, depending on the causes.

Features of barrel puncher repair

The barrel perforator has the appearance of a barrel, which is due to the vertical arrangement of the engine at right angles to the percussion mechanism.
Repair of a barrel punch is almost the same as a conventional tool. The only difference is in gaining access to certain units.

To get to the gearbox and piston, you will need to remove the plastic cover at the top of the tool.
To get to the electric motor, you will need to remove the lower casing or cover.
Replacement of brushes is carried out through special holes on the sides of the cylinder.

It's important to know! Barrel hammers do not have a drilling function, as they are intended exclusively for complex and heavy work. This in some way facilitates the performance of repair work, in particular, the gearbox.

To avoid frequent tool breakages, every 20-30 minutes of work should be replaced with breaks of 10 minutes. After all, overheating of the engine is one of the common causes breakdowns in the electrical part.

In the course of work, the reliability of fixing the nozzles should be monitored. When drilling big holes, you should start work with small diameters in order to lighten the load on the tool. It is better to drill through holes gradually, resorting to the use of short nozzles, gradually replacing them with long ones.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that tool breakages cannot be avoided, even if regular diagnostics are performed. But in this case, you can definitely be sure that your tool will not let you down.