Why pepper leaves fall: we understand the situation. Why does the ovary fall on peppers Why do inflorescences fall on decorative peppers
Why does the ovary fall in peppers?
How to save the future crop of a heat-loving crop
Often in July, gardeners and gardeners complain about falling pepper ovaries. Let's try to figure out what is the reason for such an unpleasant phenomenon, because without eliminating it, you can be left without a crop.Everyone knows very well that pepper is extremely picky about light - it needs a plentiful sunlight from the moment of germination until the end of the growing season. Insufficient lighting during the seedling period adversely affects not only the quality of the seedlings, but subsequently also the growth and development of the vegetative and reproductive organs, and ultimately the yield. Here is the first reason for the fall of the ovaries.
Water in most necessary for pepper during the fruiting period. During the growing season, it is demanding on the presence of water and at the same time does not tolerate its excess. With a lack of moisture in the soil, some of the buds and ovaries fall off, the yield decreases. With excess moisture root system suffers from air deficiency. As a result, the growth and development of the plant is suspended.
Pepper is very picky about air humidity. The optimum humidity for it is 60-70%. Higher or lower humidity, accompanied by increased temperature, causes the flowers and ovaries to fall off. It is necessary to monitor the level of humidity, not allowing it to rise above the optimum, for which greenhouses are ventilated. To increase the humidity of the air, you can spray water with a sprayer or spill the soil and adjacent paths from a watering can.
Pepper is especially demanding on the structure and fertility of the soil. Grows well and bears fruit in light, humus-rich soils containing nutrients in an easily accessible form. Nitrogen plays an important role in nutrition, which improves the growth of vegetative organs - roots, stems, leaves. With its lack, growth slows down. An excess of nitrogen causes violent growth of stems and leaves to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the growth of the root system, on accelerating the formation of ovaries and fruits. Potassium is necessary during the entire vegetation of the plant, it increases the resistance of the plant to cold, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
During the growing season, plants need to be fed twice a month, preferably alternating mineral and organic top dressing. Mineral supplements include ammonium nitrate or urea (15-20 g per 10 l of water), double superphosphate (40-50 g), potassium sulfate (20-30 g). All of these mineral fertilizers can be replaced with complex ones, for example, azofoska - 30-50 g per 10 liters of water. After two weeks, the plants can be fed with an organic solution (mullein 1:8, bird droppings 1:15).
Further, these top dressings (organic and mineral) alternate in a week. In August, during the period of mass ripening of pepper, top dressing can be carried out with superphosphate - 40 g per 10 liters of water (superphosphate is infused for at least a day).
Two or three times during the growing season, I practice foliar feeding - 0.1-0.2% solution of calcium nitrate, which contributes to the growth of good fruits.
When signs of blossom end rot appear on the fruits, foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water) will again help out. It is used twice with a break in a week. Apply the same solution under the root after watering (1-2 liters per plant).
If there is no calcium nitrate, you can shed the beds with a suspension of chalk - a glass per plant. Stir one - two tablespoons per 1 liter of water. Chalk that has not gone into the soil will go away with subsequent watering.
In the absence of calcium nitrate (unfortunately, it is rarely on sale), for foliar feeding, you can use a 0.3-0.4% solution of calcium chloride, which is sold in a pharmacy without a prescription.
The preservation of the ovaries on the plant will also be facilitated by such an agricultural technique as regular forced pollination by shaking the plants in the morning.
Peppers have their own requirements for fruit setting conditions. These requirements are very high, up to whims. However, gardeners skillfully overcome them, as a result, almost all of us grow peppers.
Causes of fall of the ovary of peppers
The reasons why plants shed flowers, buds, ovaries are as follows.
Lack of light. Plants, without further ado, drop flowers and ovaries. Because part of the flowers with a lack of light is not fertilized.
Too much light. In the summer, in July, peppers suffer greatly from an excess of light. It is good when they are shaded at noon from the sun with a shadow, for example, from tomato bushes. You can throw dampened newspaper on top. If this is not done, the plants may drop buds.
Pepper flowers are bisexual and require air movement for pollination. Therefore, every morning you need to ventilate the greenhouse. And this should be done as early as possible, do not wait for the greenhouse to warm up with the sun and it will get the atmosphere of a bath. If a stream of cold air bursts into such a bath, the plant will go into shock. The result is a suspension in growth, dropping ovaries.
soil moisture. The bulk of the roots of peppers in our greenhouses is located in top layer soil - 10–20 cm. This layer must be well wetted. Plants do not tolerate fluctuations in soil moisture in the root zone. With a lack of moisture, the bushes stop growing, and shed ovaries and fruits.
Air humidity. In hot weather, it is useful to refresh the bushes with warm rain from a children's watering can, in the morning - over the leaves, and in the afternoon, in the heat, lightly irrigate the ground to moisten the air. Peppers really like these procedures. It is not necessary to strongly humidify the air, because at high humidity the pollen loses its viability.
Air temperature over 35 degrees is unacceptable. If the weather is very hot at the end of June-July, you can use this technique: cover the surface of the soil under the bushes with a layer of grass from the lawn. This layer protects the soil from drying out, from compaction, from overheating, besides, it provides additional nutrition to the bushes. Before the end of June, it is not necessary to cover the soil with grass, you need to wait for the soil to warm up in the entire root habitat layer.
In July, on warm nights, you can leave the greenhouse open for the night. In general, my greenhouse is designed in such a way that the roof can be completely removed without difficulty, which I do in July. In hot weather, day and night, the greenhouse stands without a roof, so the temperature there does not rise above 30 degrees.
Pepper Spark refers to perennial plants that can be grown without problems on your windowsill. The main thing is to provide him with the necessary conditions, and then soon you will see the first ovaries and inflorescences.
- Transplant and reproduction
It is also useful to know that the benefits of pepper for our body are quite large, because eating it contributes to the production of the hormone of happiness - endorphin. In addition, Pepper Spark stimulates the metabolic process, lowers the level of "bad" cholesterol and blood sugar.
Growing pepper at home
It is quite possible to grow pepper Spark at home. Although the plant is a little whimsical, nevertheless, by learning about its some features, you can achieve excellent results. For example, with proper care, you can get the ovaries of a large number of fruits (even up to 100 pieces).
Most important points that should be taken into account:
- Pot location.
When growing peppers in a pot, they should be placed in a cool and bright place. The pot itself should be 3-5 liters, preferably ceramic. Drainer necessarily.
- Lighting.
If necessary, you can additionally artificially illuminate the plant. It is optimal that the pepper receives lighting for at least 12 hours a day. Blue-violet lighting works best.
- Optimal temperature regime.
It is no more than +15 degrees. Otherwise, the leaves will turn yellow and the flower petals will fall off. When growing peppers on a windowsill, it is best to place them in the southeast or southwest.
- Humidity.
If your apartment is hot enough, then try increasing the humidity of the air so that your Spark Pepper, which cannot be called easy to care for, feels comfortable.
- Watering.
Since the plant needs regular watering, you need to know some of the nuances. So, the soil should not be excessively wet so that the roots do not rot.
- The composition of the earth.
The best option is a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus (ratio 2:1:1). In addition, it is necessary that drainage from crushed stone be laid out at the bottom of the pot and broken brick. Be sure to change the soil in the spring.
- Fertilizer.
This is an important part of plant care. Buy the best ready-made complex fertilizer. Apply once every 2 weeks.
Transplant and reproduction
Pepper care is inextricably linked with its transplantation into a larger pot. This should be done depending on the size of the plant, approximately once every 2-3 years.
The most efficient method of propagation is by seed. It must be done in early spring. The seeds are planted in moist soil to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The air temperature should be about +24 degrees. After 10 days, shoots should appear.
After the seedlings are placed in a well-lit place (the temperature can be about +20 degrees), and when the leaves appear, they are transplanted into a pot. After another 2 months, the plant can be transplanted into a larger pot (if you want to grow at home) or into open ground.
Disease and pest control
Like any other plant, the Fire Pepper may well face various diseases. For example, pests such as aphids and spider mites may try to harm the plant. Such unwanted "guests" can especially appear if the pepper was grown in the garden for some time, and then was transferred to the house. When such problems appear, you do not need to worry too much, because pepper is not a plant that will so easily offend itself. Pepper contains a special component - capsaicin, which is just the same used in the fight against various pests.
So, if you notice the appearance of an aphid or a tick, then take a few peppers and pass them through a meat grinder. Pour the resulting pulp with water (ratio 1 to 10). Let it brew for a day. Then strain and add grated soap (1 tsp per 1 liter of water). Spray the diseased plant with the resulting solution several times. Repeat the procedure every 5 days.
Another possible problem is that the long-awaited flowering never occurs. think about possible problems. Most likely, the reason lies in the use of fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen.
If the color of the leaves begins to change and they turn pale, then most likely the problem is insufficient lighting. Also, for the same reason, such a phenomenon can be observed when suddenly, suddenly, the plant begins to lose all its leaves. It is possible that the plant has gone into a dormant state. But with an increase in daylight hours, new leaves will begin to appear again. In this case, you can also use artificial lighting.
As you can see, the Spark Pepper, the cultivation of which can cause minor difficulties at first, is actually not such a whimsical plant. Observing all the conditions, you can even harvest your own crops.
Pepper care and cultivation
Useful properties and application
Indoor pepper, the photo of which allows you to imagine the beauty of this plant, can be used to prepare all kinds of dishes. It is used to make a spicy seasoning for the sauce, and is also added during canning. Hot pepper pods are an excellent appetite stimulant. It is very tasty with hot borscht, fresh straight from the windowsill and on the table!
In addition, indoor pepper belongs to medicinal plants. From it you can prepare a healing tincture, which helps with digestive disorders, sciatica and neuralgia. If pepper tincture is applied externally, then burns should be avoided.
Contraindications for the use of hot peppers are diseases of the liver and pancreas. Be careful, excessive use of pepper can lead to dysfunction of these organs.
Peppers, as you can see, are a fairly popular crop for growing at home. Many interesting indoor varieties and hybrids have been bred. A fairly understandable experience of amateurs has been accumulated, which we have covered. We also analyzed the typical mistakes in growing this crop. Pepper has many useful properties and is used as a remedy at home.
Gardeners often wonder why pepper flowers fall off. This usually happens in July. It is important to prevent this unpleasant phenomenon, otherwise there is a risk of being left without a crop. Let's find out the reasons together.
The main reasons for shedding flowers are:
Pepper is a photophilous plant, sunlight is vital for it. Moreover, it is necessary to provide pepper with light at all stages of development - from sowing seeds to harvesting. Otherwise, its development is inhibited, and fruiting falls. If a we are talking about a plant in the open field, then such problems do not arise. But what if you are growing your peppers in a greenhouse? In this case, you need to use additional sources light (lamps, lanterns, etc.).
Thus, proper care of peppers is the key to healthy plant development and a good harvest. If you doubt the correctness of your actions, then it is better to consult with specialists or gardeners who have extensive experience in growing this vegetable. Show care and patience, and then the problem of why pepper flowers fall will bypass you. Have a rich harvest!
Why does the ovary fall in peppers?
Often in July, gardeners and gardeners complain about falling pepper ovaries. Let's try to figure out what is the reason for such an unpleasant phenomenon, because without eliminating it, you can be left without a crop.
Pepper is very picky about air humidity. The optimum humidity for it is 60-70%. Higher or lower humidity, accompanied by increased temperature, causes the flowers and ovaries to fall off. It is necessary to monitor the level of humidity, not allowing it to rise above the optimum, for which greenhouses are ventilated. To increase the humidity of the air, you can spray water with a sprayer or spill the soil and adjacent paths from a watering can.
Pepper is especially demanding on the structure and fertility of the soil. Grows well and bears fruit in light, humus-rich soils containing nutrients in an easily accessible form. Nitrogen plays an important role in nutrition, which improves the growth of vegetative organs - roots, stems, leaves. With its lack, growth slows down. An excess of nitrogen causes violent growth of stems and leaves to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the growth of the root system, on accelerating the formation of ovaries and fruits. Potassium is necessary during the entire vegetation of the plant, it increases the resistance of the plant to cold, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
Two or three times during the growing season, I practice foliar feeding - 0.1-0.2% solution of calcium nitrate, which contributes to the growth of good fruits.
When signs of blossom end rot appear on the fruits, foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water) will again help out. It is used twice with a break in a week. Apply the same solution under the root after watering (1-2 liters per plant).
The preservation of the ovaries on the plant will also be facilitated by such an agricultural technique as regular forced pollination by shaking the plants in the morning.
Causes of fall of the ovary of peppers
Lack of light. Plants, without further ado, drop flowers and ovaries. Because part of the flowers with a lack of light is not fertilized.
Too much light. In the summer, in July, peppers suffer greatly from an excess of light. It is good when they are shaded at noon from the sun with a shadow, for example, from tomato bushes. You can throw dampened newspaper on top. If this is not done, the plants may drop buds.
Air temperature over 35 degrees is unacceptable. If the weather is very hot at the end of June-July, you can use this technique: cover the surface of the soil under the bushes with a layer of grass from the lawn. This layer protects the soil from drying out, from compaction, from overheating, besides, it provides additional nutrition to the bushes. Before the end of June, it is not necessary to cover the soil with grass, you need to wait for the soil to warm up in the entire root habitat layer.
In July, on warm nights, you can leave the greenhouse open for the night. In general, my greenhouse is designed in such a way that the roof can be completely removed without difficulty, which I do in July. In hot weather, day and night, the greenhouse stands without a roof, so the temperature there does not rise above 30 degrees.
Why pepper ovaries fall, pepper dressing - root and foliar
How to save the future crop of a heat-loving crop
Often in July, gardeners and gardeners complain about falling ovaries of pepper. Let's try to figure out what is the reason for such an unpleasant phenomenon, because without eliminating it, you can be left without a crop.
Everyone knows well that pepper is extremely picky about light- he needs abundant sunlight from the moment the shoots appear until the end of the growing season. Insufficient lighting during the seedling period adversely affects not only the quality of the seedlings, but subsequently also the growth and development of the vegetative and reproductive organs, and ultimately the yield. Here is the first reason for the fall of the ovaries.
Water in the greatest amount is necessary for pepper during the fruiting period.. During the growing season, it is demanding on the presence of water and at the same time does not tolerate its excess. With a lack of moisture in the soil, some of the buds and ovaries fall off, the yield decreases. With excess moisture, the root system experiences a lack of air. As a result, the growth and development of the plant is suspended.
Pepper is very picky about air humidity.. The optimum humidity for it is 60-70%. Higher or lower humidity, accompanied by increased temperature, causes the flowers and ovaries to fall off. It is necessary to monitor the level of humidity, not allowing it to rise above the optimum, for which greenhouses are ventilated. To increase the humidity of the air, you can spray water with a sprayer or spill the soil and adjacent paths from a watering can.
Pepper is especially demanding on the structure and fertility of the soil.. Grows well and bears fruit in light, humus-rich soils containing nutrients in an easily accessible form. Nitrogen plays an important role in nutrition, which improves the growth of vegetative organs - roots, stems, leaves. With its lack, growth slows down. An excess of nitrogen causes violent growth of stems and leaves to the detriment of the formation and ripening of fruits. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on the growth of the root system, on accelerating the formation of ovaries and fruits. Potassium is necessary during the entire vegetation of the plant, it increases the resistance of the plant to cold, accelerates the ripening of fruits.
During the growing season, plants need to be fed twice a month.. preferably alternating mineral and organic top dressing. Mineral supplements include ammonium nitrate or urea (15-20 g per 10 liters of water), double superphosphate(40-50 g), potassium sulfate(20-30 g). All of these mineral fertilizers can be replaced with complex ones, for example, azofoska - 30-50 g per 10 liters of water. After two weeks, the plants can be fed with an organic solution (mullein 1:8, bird droppings 1:15).
Two or three times during the growing season I practice foliar feeding- 0.1-0.2% solution calcium nitrate. which promotes the growth of good fruits.
When signs appear on the fruit blossom end rot again, foliar top dressing with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water) will help out. It is used twice with a break in a week. Apply the same solution under the root after watering (1-2 liters per plant).
If there is no calcium nitrate, you can shed the beds chalk suspension- a glass per plant. Stir one - two tablespoons per 1 liter of water. Chalk that has not gone into the soil will go away with subsequent watering.
In the absence of calcium nitrate (unfortunately, it is rarely on sale), a 0.3-0.4% solution can be used for foliar feeding. calcium chloride. which is sold in pharmacies without a prescription.
The preservation of the ovaries on the plant will also be facilitated by such an agrotechnical technique as regular carrying out forced pollination by shaking plants in the first half of the day.
Viktor Felk, expert gardener, Petrozavodsk, Karelia
All about why pepper flowers fall
September 17, 2013
Water is the source of life for all organisms, and peppers are no exception. If the soil dries out, then the flowers fall off. Therefore, it is necessary to provide pepper with water to the full, especially during flowering and fruiting. But an excess of water should not be allowed, otherwise the root system will suffer, which is fraught with decay and deterioration of the general condition of the plant.
Incorrect and untimely feeding of peppers during the growing season is one of the main reasons for the fall of flowers. It should be done at least twice a month. Alternate mineral fertilizers with organic. The soil itself should also be fertile, light, nutritious, rich in humus. To feed it, use nitrogen (just don’t overdo it, otherwise it will lead to the growth of the bush, and the fruits will only suffer), phosphorus (it has a good effect on the roots, nourishes the ovaries, accelerates the ripening of fruits), potassium (helps to survive cold snaps and is generally useful at all stages of growth pepper).
In a greenhouse, natural pollination is almost impossible, so you need to do it manually. Shake the plants in the morning to pollinate them. Or you can use the grandmother's way. To do this, tear off one flower from the strongest bush and just poke it into other flowers. Before this procedure, it is advised to ventilate the room, and after completion - to increase the humidity of the air by spraying water on the walls.
Pepper care and cultivation
cultivation
Such indoor plant, as a pepper is a shrub descended from species growing in the undergrowth. Despite the fact that these varieties grow in shading conditions, there are certain nuances of growing them in an apartment.
When growing ornamental peppers, it must be remembered that they come from the south. Therefore, for him, the combination of conditions such as cloudy weather and short daylight hours is a real test. The plant tolerates a lack of light especially hard in the period from November to January. If there is little light, then the pepper stops growing and blooming. At the same time, the answer to the question “why do pepper flowers fall” will be a lack of light. With a short light day, the plant begins to shed not only flowers, but also leaves. Due to this need for winter period pepper grown indoors needs additional lighting. To do this, use phytolamps (the light source can be anything). Remember, this culture needs 12 hours of daylight.
Being perennial plant, pepper, subject to proper care can live in the house for up to 10 years. Care for it begins at the stage of soil preparation.
When preparing the soil, remember that pepper loves slightly acidic soil (pH 6.5-7). Therefore, for the manufacture of the soil mixture, it is necessary to use the following ingredients:
When the soil mixture is ready, it must be poured into the selected container. However, before that, clean gravel or garden expanded clay must be placed on the bottom of the pot. The layer thickness is 2-3 cm. This will create good drainage. Some flower growers advise adding humus and compost, as well as river sand, to the nutrient soil.
Planting seeds is carried out randomly. After that, they must be sprinkled with a small layer of soil that has been sifted. Usually the first shoots appear on the 15th day after sowing the seed. After their appearance, you need to pinch the top to prevent the shoot from stretching. Picking is usually carried out a month after sowing the seeds.
Peppers grown in an apartment or house should have the following care:
If the care of the plant is correct, then it will bloom with small white flowers. During this period, indoor pepper acquires a particularly spectacular and decorative appearance.
It should be noted that the formation of fruits does not require artificial pollination. When the crop has been harvested, it is necessary to rejuvenate the pepper. For this, it is transplanted into new land. Transplantation should be carried out carefully so as not to damage the root system.
It is recommended to transplant the plant into new soil and into a pot every three years. During transplantation, it is necessary to remove too powerful and old shoots. Pruning will make decorative pepper not only fruitful, but also beautiful.
If the care of the bush was wrong, then various diseases may appear on it. Especially often diseases develop due to improper watering or insufficient lighting.
As you can see, pepper is an easy crop to grow at home. The main thing is to create the right conditions for it.
Video "Description"
From the video you will learn a lot of interesting things about this indoor vegetable.
Varieties of varieties
It must be understood that pepper in a pot is a purely conditional thing. Since any hot pepper can grow in such conditions, which has suitable bush sizes and simple care. Therefore, hot pepper for growing at home can be of any kind. You can choose from varieties designed for growing in open or closed ground.
When choosing a variety, it is necessary to remember the existence of Nightshade or "Jerusalem Cherry". The fruits of this plant are poisonous.
In addition to the above species at home, you can grow the following varieties:
The following varieties are especially decorative varieties of pepper:
- Variegatta. The bush has a variegated color of the leaf plate;
- SHU. Variegated color of leaves is characteristic;
- Purple Tiger. A small bush on which small light purple fruits are formed. The species is characterized by variegated color of the leaves;
- Salsa Orange. The most popular variety, which is distinguished from others by its small orange pods. Has a great resemblance to the Light;
- Rowanberry. The most interesting variety. It has multi-colored small fruits-peas. They outwardly resemble a rowan brush. The bush consists of slightly twisted leaves-boats.
- pinching the central root when growing seedlings densely. Of course, pinching will not lead to the death of the plant, but it will move away from it for a long time;
- when pests appear on the bush, it should not be thrown away. By itself, pepper is a repeller of many types of insects. If they are present, the bush just needs to be treated with soapy water. You can use hot peppercorns filled with warm water to control pests;
- in dry climates, spider mites may appear on pepper bushes. To combat it, simply increase the humidity of the air. With a large invasion of this pest, you need to use Fitoverm. This is a preparation of plant origin and does not pose a danger to the plant and its fruits.
- the soil to the depth of the palm warmed up to +15 degrees Celsius; the air warmed up to +18.
- Lighting failure. Pepper is picky about good lighting, but daylight hours should be no more than twelve hours a day. This is the time required for the formation of peduncles. That is why any fluctuations in this parameter can cause the plant to drop flowers.
- Insufficient soil fertility. When growing peppers in a greenhouse, not all soils are suitable. Sweet and hot peppers grow well on structured soil enriched with vermicompost. On the initial stage development, nitrogen and phosphorus should be added to the soil, the lack of which adversely affects flowering.
- very high performance daytime temperatures that exceed 35 degrees;
- very low temperatures at night;
- an excess of nitrogen fertilizers in greenhouse soil;
- waterlogging of greenhouse soil;
- low light level or short daylight hours;
- low humidity and the presence of too dry air in the greenhouse;
- insufficient air circulation;
- poor quality water used for irrigation.
- temperature regime in the greenhouse facility;
- correct watering - it is preferable to install a high-quality drip irrigation system for plants that does not overmoisten the soil and delivers required amount water and liquid fertilizer directly to the root system;
- the quantity and quality of fertilizing carried out by means of organic and mineral fertilizers.
- often occurring sharp temperature changes in the greenhouse structure;
- prolonged rainy or cold weather, which does not allow ventilation through vents and doors;
- insufficient amount of lighting;
- lack of potash fertilizers or boron in the greenhouse soil;
- the presence of a significant amount of condensate, which provokes an increase in the humidity of pollen;
- temperatures above thirty degrees, which causes complete sterility of pollen.
- inability to move easily and comfortably;
- discomfort when going up and down stairs;
- unpleasant crunch, clicking not of their own free will;
- pain during or after exercise;
- inflammation in the joints and swelling;
- causeless and sometimes unbearable aching pain in the joints.
These are not all varieties that can be grown indoors. However, they are the most popular.
Common Mistakes
When growing pepper in an apartment, you need to be aware of the most common mistakes in order not to make them. Otherwise, the bush is attacked by various diseases. Not always the fight against them, even begun immediately after the discovery of the first signs of malaise, will be able to save the plant from death.
The very first mistake that inexperienced flower growers make is non-compliance with the water regime. The plant should not be watered with cold water. Such watering will lead to decay of the root system.
Since pepper is a heat-loving crop, it needs to be watered only with water at room temperature.
When placing the pot near heating systems, watering should be carried out every other day, as the earth will dry out quickly enough. In such conditions, it is recommended to install a container of water near the pot for evaporation. Under normal conditions, this procedure is carried out twice a week.
In addition to improper watering, the most common mistakes include the following points:
If the pot was for some time on the loggia or in the summer greenhouse, then when transferred to the house, the pepper may begin to shed its leaves. This situation reflects the lack of light. To solve the problem, it is necessary to install additional lighting. If you do not need flowering, you can simply drastically cut the shoots to about 1/3, and also stop heavy watering. However, remember that in such a situation, the soil should not be allowed to dry out.
Useful properties and application
Home grown indoor pepper can be used as an ingredient various dishes. It can be used to prepare hot sauces, seasonings. But it is also allowed to add it during canning.
Hot pepper pods are an excellent appetite stimulant. This plant is considered medicinal, as it is part of many medicinal tinctures. They are prescribed for violations of the gastrointestinal tract, sciatica and neuralgia. They are also actively used to prevent burns. But remember that pepper tinctures cannot be used for diseases of the pancreas and liver.
Pepper is a very popular crop, which today is actively grown not only in greenhouses and open ground, but also at home. For a good harvest, as well as a beautiful appearance the bush itself, you must adhere to simple rules care, and know the most common mistakes. In general, caring for peppers at home is quite simple.
Why does the eggplant color fall in the greenhouse
Eggplants, peppers and tomatoes, as typical representatives of nightshade plants, are quite finicky, and excellent seedlings do not always guarantee a high yield. Buds, flowers or ovaries can simply crumble.
Common reasons
Solanaceae can be left without flowers due to boron deficiency. Its lack is manifested in the slow growth of greenhouse culture. This problem is solved by spraying (5 g boric acid on a bucket of water) or by applying boron fertilizers to the soil (no more than once every three years). Boric acid is a microfertilizer that contains boron, an essential element for plants throughout the growing season. You risk losing flowers and buds if you organize them incorrectly watering nightshade, break the light and forget to feed them with micro and macro elements.
What do eggplants need?
Not every gardener will take the liberty of growing eggplant just because of their capriciousness: the plant will get rid of buds, flowers and ovaries in an instant if you show negligence. It is believed that eggplant is a very capricious fruit, but in fact it just needs lots of light and heat. This vegetable comes from Southeast Asia. Eggplant has heavy pollen, and therefore this crop needs dry air for productive fertilization. At high humidity Pollen does not "knock out" even with the recommended shaking of plants. Arm yourself with a thick drawing brush - with it you will deliver pollen to the pistils. Temperature is another determining factor. Plant seedlings if:
The optimum temperature for eggplant growth is +25°C during the day and +15°C at night. If the plant becomes chilly, you will not wait for buds and ovaries. However, the plant can slow down growth, throw off buds, not give ovaries even in a very hot microclimate, if the thermometer in the greenhouse “creeps” above +35 ° C. Chaotic watering and, as consequently, lack of moisture is another good reason for eggplant to drop flowers, buds and tender ovaries. The “blue ones” are very fond of water, but they should not overdo it with watering: the plant can get sick. Eggplant is a child of the sun, and many agronomists rightly believe that the ovary on this nightshade crop appears only when direct sunlight hits the flower. Eggplants even suffer from the shadow cast by a neighbor in the garden, and if you do not guess to provide the plant with light, in protest it will show you its discarded buds. Do not forget also that fallen flowers and buds can be "handiwork" spider mite. Its destructive activity in the form of whitish dots on eggplant leaves is visible to the naked eye.
Why eggplant buds fall (video)
Also read
How to grow eggplant in a greenhouse. Eggplant care in the greenhouse
India's Exotic Eggplant - Delicious and Unbelievable healthy vegetable, which has long won the love and respect of domestic gardeners. It is quite difficult to grow it in the temperate latitudes of Russia.
This gentle southerner reacts even to small temperature changes, so planting eggplants in a greenhouse is the best solution. The closed space creates excellent conditions for the development and growth of vegetables, similar to the humid tropical heat of Burma and India. Let's talk about how to grow eggplant in a greenhouse, what questions may arise and how to care for plants.
Rules for growing eggplant
The main condition for the proper development of eggplant is growing them separately from other crops. The only exception is tomatoes. This is the only portable neighborhood.
Eggplant puts forward special requirements at almost all stages of development: when preparing the soil, planting seedlings, irrigating and maintaining the temperature regime. But the efforts of gardeners are rewarded with a magnificent harvest of the legendary "blue", until recently inaccessible, but today very familiar in Russian gardens. We will carefully consider each wish of the handsome eggplant and learn how to get along well with him.
Soil preparation
Eggplant care in a greenhouse begins with soil preparation. It is necessary to take care of the soil, since the eggplant is demanding and very capricious, it is sensitive to the composition of the soil and must be planted in properly prepared soil.
The soil in the greenhouse is needed. update by removing fragments of roots and remnants of above-ground parts of plants;? disinfect by dissolving 60 g blue vitriol in 10 liters of water. After completing all the steps, let the earth dry out and dig a shovel onto the bayonet. Eggplant does not accept acidic soils.
To reduce acidity, it is necessary to add dolomite flour in the amount of 50-60 g per 1 sq. meter. For good development eggplants need fertilizer. The best top dressing, of course, is organic - manure or compost humus.
It is added to the soil before planting at the rate of 0.5 buckets per 1 sq. meter. In addition to organic, complex mineral fertilizers with a balanced composition of nitrogen and phosphorus supplements are also needed. Another condition necessary for the successful rooting of seedlings is that eggplants need to be planted in the ground warmed up to +15 ° C.
We plant seedlings
When answering the question of how to grow eggplant in a greenhouse, it should be remembered that, in addition to soil preparation, there are many different nuances. Well-dug and cultivated soil in the greenhouse should be leveled before planting.
Then it is necessary to mark the holes with a depth of 10-15 cm, maintaining an interval of 45-50 cm between them. The row spacing is 60 cm. When planting seedlings, 1.5 liters of manganese or Fitosporin solution are poured into each hole and a handful of wood ash is added.
It is important to control the temperature of the soil and air in the greenhouse. Planting should be carried out when the soil warms up to +15 ° C, and the air - up to + 18-20 ° C. Eggplant seedlings require careful handling - they are very fragile.
Planting plants should be carefully, trying not to damage the delicate root system. Before planting the seedlings in the ground, they are pre-watered so that it is more convenient to take them out of the containers, and the clod of earth on the roots does not crumble.
The seedling should be planted a little deeper than the level at which it was in the cassette or container. Upon completion of planting, the soil is compacted and watered again.
How to water eggplant in a greenhouse
Having completed the initial stage, proceed to the next. It starts with watering, which is very important for the culture. Eggplants love water, so they need to be watered regularly.
If a moisture deficiency occurs, the flowers will begin to crumble, and the fruits will significantly lose their quality and size. The main condition for irrigation: the water must be warm, its temperature is not less than + 23 ° C.
The use of cold water can negate all efforts to grow vegetables. The first watering is carried out after 5 days after planting.
Subsequently, the regularity of watering should correspond to once a week. In the process of watering, eggplant leaves should not be wetted, water should flow under the root. It is necessary to ensure access of water to the roots, it should not drain down the bed.
Therefore, you need to periodically loosen the earth. The frequency and intensity of watering increase when the plant begins to bear fruit: now you need to water it 2 times a week, preventing the soil from drying out.
To receive big harvest eggplant in the greenhouse must be created ideal conditions: high soil moisture with comfortable air humidity. It is better to water vegetables in the morning and be sure to arrange ventilation. This is necessary to prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases.
top dressing
How to grow eggplant in a greenhouse? In addition to timely watering for good crop development, you need to remember the need for top dressing. For the entire growing season, fertilizers will need to be applied 3-4 times.
The first time the plant is fed 2-3 weeks after planting. During this time, the culture manages to take root well and develop a root system capable of receiving nutrition from the soil. The second top dressing should be carried out before the eggplant blooms.
Until the plants bear fruit, they should be fed with complex universal fertilizers, for example, "Mortar" or "Kemira", dissolving 35-40 g of the product in 10 liters of water. When fruit is set, they switch to nitrogen and phosphorus supplements: 30 g of superphosphate and ammonium nitrate per bucket of water.
For better eggplant development, organic fertilizers should be alternated with mineral fertilizers, but neither one nor the other should be abused. It should not be forgotten that during the fruiting period, plants are especially vulnerable to various pests. Therefore, from time to time, simple prevention should be carried out: periodically sprinkle the aisles of plants with wood ash.
We observe the temperature regime
Do not forget about maintaining the optimum temperature in the greenhouse. It fluctuates from +25°С to +28°С. Exceeding the 35-degree barrier will result in wilting of the fruit, and lowering to + 13 ° C will stop growth.
Therefore, it is necessary to constantly control the temperature regime: ventilate the greenhouse in hot weather, while avoiding drafts, since the eggplant can lose color, and also insulate when it gets cold, of course, to the extent possible. Failure to follow these rules can seriously affect the yield.
Therefore, answers to questions, for example, about why eggplants wither in a greenhouse, should be sought precisely in the failure to follow the recommendations for growing vegetables. Withering of eggplants can occur due to careless watering, lack of loosening, improper ventilation, or, conversely, a draft that has arisen.
Or maybe the eggplant was the victim of an attack by some disgusting infection. There can be any number of reasons, but in order to exclude the maximum number of them, one must adhere to the indicated conditions.
Special conditions for good development
A few words about greenhouses. With proper care, plants feel good under any shelter. But from a purely practical point of view, eggplants in a polycarbonate greenhouse have more comfortable growing conditions.
In such greenhouses, it is easier to care for them, properly ventilate, water and notice pests in time. Greenhouse crops are always more delicate and fragile than those that grow in the open.
By tying tall eggplant varieties to trellises for correct formation bush, this should not be forgotten. Low-growing varieties do not need a garter.
It is not necessary to pinch eggplants; it is enough to remove withered leaves and underdeveloped ovaries from the stem. If eggplants are not tied in a greenhouse, you can help them by dissolving 2 g of boric acid in 10 liters warm water and abundantly spraying the plants.
After some time, you should feed them. The "blue ones" react sharply to the lack of fertilizers. For example, eggplants turn yellow in a greenhouse from a lack of nitrogen, and leaves extended at an acute angle to the stem are a sure sign of phosphorus starvation. Improper planting care - watering with cold water, drafts, too high humidity, as well as untimely nitrogen fertilization can lead to the dropping of flowers and ovaries.
Eggplant diseases in the greenhouse
Unfortunately, eggplant is a very vulnerable vegetable. He has many enemies, such as tobacco mosaic and late blight. In the fight against them, the preparations "Fitosporin" and "Zircon" have proven themselves well.
Preventive watering with solutions of these products will help protect eggplant from late blight and tobacco mosaic. And pre-sowing treatment of the soil with preparations containing copper will neutralize the earth.
Viral diseases
Eggplants often suffer from Fusarium. This is fungal disease detrimental to the plant. The fungus, penetrating into the culture through the root, affects the entire vascular system.
This is why eggplants turn yellow in a greenhouse. This is the first sign of Fusarium. Then the leaves wither and fall off.
Because it is affected vascular system, the plant cannot be saved. On the transverse section of the stem, you can see a change in the color of the vascular ring - it becomes brown, and on the root collar there is a pinkish coating of fungal spores.
Infected seeds may be the cause of the problem. In this case, you will need to change them. Failure to comply with agricultural practices for growing eggplant can also cause various viral infections.
Therefore, the fight against them includes not only the treatment of crops with drugs, but also various agricultural practices. How to grow eggplant in a greenhouse without viral diseases? Let's try to understand what preventive measures worth taking.
Blackleg
The black leg fungus causes thinning and darkening of the root neck. When affected by this virus, the plant begins to gradually fade, and when it passes to the root system, it dies.
Usually the black leg affects the seedlings, but it happens that the high soil moisture in the greenhouse awakens a virus that accidentally enters the ground. To avoid such failures, the ground in the greenhouse is completely changed or disinfected with a solution of bleach. And in order to prevent the emergence and development of the black leg, you should not thicken the crops, prevent temperature changes and do not overwater the plants. Affected plants must be removed immediately, the soil loosened and sprinkled with ash.
Mosaic
Mosaic is a disease characterized by variegated mosaic-green coloration and deformation of the leaves, as well as yellow spotting on the fruits. Such a lesion can cause poor-quality seed material or mechanical damage when transplanting seedlings.
Pre-sowing half-hour treatment of seeds with 20% hydrochloric acid will help save plantings from mosaic damage. If a disease is detected in a greenhouse, diseased plants must be removed and burned, and garden tools must be disinfected.
Gray rot
Gray rot appears as dark growing water spots on all above-ground parts of the plant, subsequently forming a gray coating. High humidity in the greenhouse acts as a catalyst for the development of the disease. When eggplants are affected by this fungus, special treatment of plants and soil with fungicides is needed, the removal of infected crops and all plant residues from the greenhouse after harvesting vegetables.
Pests
Eggplant diseases in the greenhouse are caused not only by viruses, but also by pests. Frequent but uninvited guests are slugs, spider mites, whiteflies, Colorado beetle and aphids.
The existing drug Strela, which is harmless to humans, is quite effective in pest control and can be used in greenhouses. Eliminates slugs loosening the soil with soil treatment with dry mustard powder or ground pepper mixed with wood ash.
Spoils the mood of gardeners with aphids on eggplants in a greenhouse. Karbofos is used against it, if the fruits have not yet set, or they are sprayed with an infusion of wood ash, which is prepared as follows: 1 cup of ash is infused for a day in 10 liters of water.
Beetles are harvested by hand. Eggplant care in the greenhouse is carried out throughout the season. Maintaining order in the eggplant beds leads to the desired result: the collection of vegetables begins when the size and color inherent in the variety are achieved.
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Why do buds and ovaries crumble in nightshade crops?
In greenhouses on our personal plots, we usually grow nightshade crops - tomatoes, eggplants, peppers. It has been established that their yield depends on the quality of seedlings. Therefore, gardeners have mastered the rules for growing good seedlings.
However, it often happens that high yield fail: beautiful strong plants do not bloom or bloom profusely, but the buds or ovaries crumble. Let's see what causes such troubles.
The most common reason why plants do not bloom or are very late in flowering is overfeeding young plants with nitrogen fertilizers. Plants are just fattening.
If the plants bloom normally, but the flowers dry up and fall off on them, then they simply did not pollinate for one reason or another. Our pets are self-pollinating plants. The most successful self-pollination occurs with the active movement of air, which is difficult in the greenhouse.
Therefore, greenhouses must be ventilated, and the plants must be mechanically shaken, tapped on them in one way or another, so that pollen is shaken off the stamens and pollination occurs. In the sun, when tapping on a plant, for example, a tomato, you can see small clouds of flying pollen. All these crops are thermophilic, they require a certain temperature regime.
Its violation leads to crop losses. Violation of the regime of watering, lighting, nutrition leads to the same consequences. For example, with a lack of boron, plants lose flowers before the formation of an ovary - this is a common reason for all these plants.
Plants just need to be fed with boron. This should be done reasonably, because there is evidence that boron is carcinogenic.
If the temperature in the greenhouse exceeds 30-32 degrees, the pollen becomes sterile, it will not fertilize the flower. Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the temperature. A thermometer must be hung in the greenhouse at a level of about 1 m from the ground.
Plants do not like it when they begin to deoxidize the soil during their growth. This must be done in advance. However, it happens that pollinated flowers, and rather large ovaries, and even unopened buds also fall.
Here, each culture has its own nuances, although in general the reasons are similar. Let's look at these reasons by culture.
tomatoes
If tomato plants grow violently, but bloom late and very poorly, then you need to add sawdust to the soil, which will draw off excess nitrogen. This is the easiest option. It happens that tomatoes bloom profusely, and we tap and shake them, but the ovaries are still missing.
Most often this is due to low temperatures (below 16 degrees on average per day, when pollen does not ripen), or too high (above 30 degrees). On hot days, you will have to ventilate or shade the greenhouse more often, and on cold days, on the contrary, insulate it by all available means.
Lack of light can also be the cause of a small number of ovaries on the plant. Plants should not be planted too densely. If thickened, it is better to tear out part of the plants: all the same, there will be little sense from them in the sense of the harvest.
Less is better, but better, and the remaining plants will have less chance of getting sick.
Sometimes experienced gardeners compensate for the lack of light with potash supplements, giving them 1.5-2 times more than usual. But here it is important not to overdo it.
To do this, you need to be sure that the soil was not initially saturated with potassium. If the weather is cloudy during flowering, then the fruits usually do not set well, because the pollen becomes heavy and sticky. To improve fruit set, plants are sprayed with a 0.02% solution of boric acid (2 g per 10 l of water).
If the weather does not want to improve, repeat spraying after 2-3 days. You can use the preparations Ovary or Bud - according to the instructions. If, on the contrary, it is hot, dry weather, the pollen that has fallen on the pistil of the flower may not germinate due to dry air, even at temperatures below 25-30 degrees.
Therefore, after shaking the plants, you need to water the soil under them a little in order to increase the air humidity in the greenhouse - I usually do this procedure in the middle of the day. can be planted in the ground. In anticipation of a transplant, she will only have enough strength to feed her modest offspring.
Usually it is one or two small tomatoes. And until these one or two fruits ripen, the bush will not continue to grow and bloom.
Therefore, before planting the plant in the ground, these fruits must be removed. Often the flowers of modern hybrids are an inflorescence of several fused simple flowers. Some of them are especially large and complex. Usually this is the first flower in the brush.
Such flowers must be removed, because they either dry out, or they still do not form normal fruits.
eggplant
Not all gardeners grow eggplants in our region, because eggplant is a very demanding crop in terms of growing conditions. A little something is wrong, the plant sheds flowers, buds and ovaries. There are several reasons for this trouble.
One of them is the very high sensitivity of the plant to temperature fluctuations: lack of heat in spring or extreme heat in summer lead to such sad consequences. In cold summer, when the temperature drops to 15 ° C and below, growth stops, the flowers are not pollinated and simply fall off. This happened last summer.
Eggplant is the most light-loving crop, the slightest shading - and the plant will drop a bud or flower. Therefore, it is impossible for a shadow even from a neighboring plant to fall on it. Irregular watering leads to the same ending.
Eggplant - very moisture-loving plant(True, an excess of moisture in our climate is harmful to plants: they get sick). With a lack of soil moisture, plants stop growing and drop buds, flowers, young ovaries.
And already grown eggplants grow ugly. Not enough leads to the same consequences nutrient soil- this, unfortunately, is the most common reason for failures among our gardeners. Moisture in the soil is one thing, air humidity is another.
Here, the opposite is true: successful pollination requires dry weather, in wet weather the flowers do not pollinate and fall off, because eggplant pollen is heavy, and in wet weather it does not spill out of the anthers even when the plants are shaken. In such cases, I manually unravel the anthers and pollinate the pistils with pollen.
In this way, it is possible to pollinate the flowers. There is an opinion that the eggplant will tie the fruit only if the sun's rays fall on the flower. And, of course, eggplant sheds not only flowers, but even buds, if a spider mite has settled on the plant.
Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the plant. Traces of the work of this pest are clearly visible on the plant; it “decorates” the leaves with whitish dots. Fitoverm does a good job with it.
Peppers
The reasons why plants shed flowers, buds, ovaries are as follows. Lack of light. Plants, without further ado, drop flowers and ovaries. Because some of the flowers are not fertilized with a lack of light. An excess of light.
In the summer, in July, peppers suffer greatly from an excess of light. It is good when they are shaded at noon from the sun with a shadow, for example, from tomato bushes. You can throw dampened newspaper on top.
If this is not done, plants can drop buds. Pepper flowers are bisexual, they require air movement for pollination. Therefore, every morning you need to ventilate the greenhouse.
And this should be done as early as possible, do not wait for the greenhouse to warm up with the sun and it will get the atmosphere of a bath. If a stream of cold air bursts into such a bath, the plant will go into shock. The result is a suspension in growth, dropping ovaries. Soil moisture.
The bulk of the roots of peppers in our greenhouses is located in the upper soil layer - 10-20 cm. This layer must be well wetted. Plants do not tolerate fluctuations in soil moisture in the root zone.
With a lack of moisture, the bushes stop growing and shed their ovaries and fruits. Air humidity. In hot weather, it is useful to refresh the bushes with warm rain from a children's watering can, in the morning - over the leaves, and in the afternoon, in the heat, lightly irrigate the ground to moisten the air.
Peppers really like these procedures. It is not necessary to strongly humidify the air, because when high humidity pollen loses its viability. Air temperature over 35 degrees is unacceptable.
If the weather is very hot at the end of June-July, you can use this technique: cover the surface of the soil under the bushes with a layer of grass from the lawn. This layer protects the soil from drying out, from compaction, from overheating, besides, it provides additional nutrition to the bushes.
Before the end of June, it is not necessary to cover the soil with grass, you need to wait for the soil to warm up in the entire root habitat layer. In July, on warm nights, you can not close the greenhouse for the night. In general, my greenhouse is designed in such a way that the roof can be completely removed without difficulty, which I do in July. In hot weather, day and night, the greenhouse stands without a roof, so the temperature there does not rise above 30 degrees. “Garden Affairs” No. 6 (40), June 2010 Lyubov Bobrovskaya, amateur gardener
Why do peppers shed their ovaries
Everyone is well aware that peppers are extremely demanding on light - they need abundant sunlight from the moment they emerge until the end of the growing season. Insufficient lighting during the seedling period adversely affects not only the quality of the seedlings, but subsequently also the growth and development of the vegetative and reproductive organs, and ultimately the yield. Here is the first reason for the fall of the ovaries.
Water in the greatest quantity is necessary for pepper during the fruiting period. During the growing season, it is demanding on the presence of water and at the same time does not tolerate its excess. With a lack of moisture in the soil, some of the buds and ovaries fall off, the yield decreases. With excess moisture, the root system experiences a lack of air. As a result, the growth and development of the plant is suspended.
During the growing season, plants need to be fed twice a month, preferably alternating mineral and organic top dressing. The composition of the mineral top dressing includes ammonium nitrate or urea (15-20 g per 10 l of water), double superphosphate (40-50 g), potassium sulfate (20-30 g). All of these mineral fertilizers can be replaced with complex ones, for example, azofoska - 30-50 g per 10 liters of water. After two weeks, the plants can be fed with an organic solution (mullein 1:8, bird droppings 1:15).
Further, these top dressings (organic and mineral) alternate in a week. In August, during the period of mass ripening of pepper, top dressing can be carried out with superphosphate - 40 g per 10 liters of water (superphosphate is infused for at least a day).
If there is no calcium nitrate, you can shed the beds with a suspension of chalk - a glass per plant. Stir one - two tablespoons per 1 liter of water. Chalk that has not gone into the soil will go away with subsequent watering.
In the absence of calcium nitrate (unfortunately, it is rarely on sale), for foliar feeding, you can use a 0.3-0.4% solution of calcium chloride, which is sold in a pharmacy without a prescription.
Peppers have their own requirements for fruit setting conditions. These requirements are very high, up to whims. However, gardeners skillfully overcome them, as a result, almost all of us grow peppers.
The reasons why plants shed flowers, buds, ovaries are as follows.
Pepper flowers are bisexual and require air movement for pollination. Therefore, every morning you need to ventilate the greenhouse. And this should be done as early as possible, do not wait for the greenhouse to warm up with the sun and it will get the atmosphere of a bath. If a stream of cold air bursts into such a bath, the plant will go into shock. The result is a suspension in growth, dropping ovaries.
soil moisture. The bulk of the roots of peppers in our greenhouses is located in the upper soil layer - 10–20 cm. This layer must be well wetted. Plants do not tolerate fluctuations in soil moisture in the root zone. With a lack of moisture, the bushes stop growing, and shed ovaries and fruits.
Air humidity. In hot weather, it is useful to refresh the bushes with warm rain from a children's watering can, in the morning - over the leaves, and in the afternoon, in the heat, lightly irrigate the ground to moisten the air. Peppers really like these procedures. It is not necessary to strongly humidify the air, because at high humidity the pollen loses its viability.
Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do
Peppers are quite long growing season, and since this culture is also capricious to growing conditions, it happens that flowers and ovaries fall even before planting in open ground or immediately after the first flowering. Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do, let's figure it out.
Why do pepper flowers and ovaries fall and what to do.
The most common cause: peppers are overfed. If from the very beginning of planting pepper you did not follow the regimen, the rules for growing pepper and constantly fed the plant with various fertilizers, then there can be up to 40 buds on one branch, but this does not mean that everyone will “survive” to the fruit. Having received enough humus, chicken manure, alkaline-ash water and other fertilizers, the peppers no longer want to “work”, they are already well fed.) Therefore, they can drop a certain number of flowers.
What to do: stop feeding the peppers, especially with nitrogen fertilizers, arrange a hunger strike for them for 10-15 days.
If you did not pick off the first flowers of the pepper, then it is quite possible that this is also the reason why the flowers fall off the pepper. Cutting off the first flowers, we stimulate the growth of new roots and only then the pepper blooms. With good roots, the plant would not drop flowers - there would be enough food for everyone.
What to do: you need to pick off the first buds. If this has not been done, then you should not be upset, the plant will leave only the amount that it will be able to “feed” 🙂 You know how they say: “Better less, but more.” This is how it can work for you: from a smaller number of ovaries, larger fruits are formed.
Other possible reason, along which the pepper will part with the flowers: their pollination does not occur. Pepper flowers are bisexual and air movement is sufficient for pollination. When there is an ovary, and not a flower, it is possible that the pepper will not throw it off.
What to do: ventilate the room or try pollinating the pepper flowers yourself. It is necessary to transfer pollen from one flower to another. This can be done with cotton wool on a match, or with a small brush, or by cutting off a triangle of a leaf and pricking it with a toothpick.
The banal reasons why pepper flowers fall is a sharp jump in day and night temperatures. If you notice that the peppers not only began to fall off the flowers, but also the flowering generally slowed down (which means that the development of the fruits also slowed down), then lower the temperature. It turns out that the pepper does not like hot days, it is more pleasant for him to be cool!
What to do: maintain a balance of temperature and lighting conditions. In a greenhouse, this can be done by adjusting the opening and closing of the window using a covering material, such as light lutrasil.
If the flowers fall off at the pepper at home, even before planting in the ground, then it can be assumed that it lacks the capacity of the pot or the ground is too dry.
What to do: transfer the pepper to a larger pot and follow the rules of watering. Ground moisture can be checked wooden stick or a toothpick: if it is dry, then watering is necessary. It is better to water in the morning before 11 o'clock with water at room temperature.
Advice. If flowers and ovaries fall off the pepper, spray it in the evening with Uniflor-buton + HB-101 fertilizer - add one drop per 1.5 liters of water to the spray bottle. Uniflor-bud will help better formation of ovaries and fruits in peppers, and HB-101 will allow peppers to maximize their internal potential.
Article Author: Love
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The main problems in the cultivation of greenhouse pepper and how to solve them
Many gardeners face problems when growing peppers Everyone who is fond of growing vegetables on a personal plot knows that hot and sweet peppers are very heat-loving crops, the cultivation of which is of particular importance in respect of agricultural technology.
Most gardeners periodically encounter problems when growing this vegetable and try to understand why peppers do not bloom, do not grow well, or the formed fruits do not gain weight well and do not turn red. In order to understand the causes of the most frequent deviations in the process of growth and development of pepper grown in a greenhouse, as well as to correct the problem situation in the shortest possible time, you should understand the main technological methods cultivation of this plant.
Falling pepper buds
Among the most common problems that accompany the cultivation of pepper in a greenhouse, bud drop occupies a leading position. It should be noted that the flowers on peppers dry and fall off for several reasons, but the following circumstances most often influence this process.
- Temperature violation. For the appearance of the first shoots of pepper, it is enough to maintain the temperature regime at the level of twenty degrees. Further development plants require a temperature of at least twenty-two degrees. A significant decrease or increase in this indicator has a bad effect on all stages of development and may cause the flowers to fall off.
Peduncles on pepper very often fall off with insufficient soil moisture in the greenhouse
- Violation of humidity indicators. Peduncles on pepper very often fall off when the soil in the greenhouse is not moist enough. Pepper has a root system that is not deep enough into the soil. This feature does not allow the plant to get enough water from deep soil layers. special attention require watering at the stages of flower formation and fruit formation.
Falling pepper leaves
This is perhaps the second most common problem faced by gardeners growing peppers in a greenhouse. Despite the seeming harmlessness, leaf fall is a rather serious violation, which can be caused by such shortcomings in care as insufficient watering or a decrease in temperature in the greenhouse.
With prolonged cooling and a decrease in temperature below twelve degrees, the leaves of plants fall off for biological reasons.
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With a prolonged cold snap and a decrease in temperature below twelve degrees, the leaves of plants fall off for biological reasons. A feature of the root system of most heat-loving plants is the cessation of work under unfavorable conditions. external conditions causing the plant to become hungry.
To maintain the growth point, the leaves of the vegetable crop give off nutrients, and they themselves first turn yellow and then fall off.
Fixing this problem is easy enough. It is necessary to feed the leaves with special preparations. For foliar feeding, it is advisable to use preparations "Uniflor-buton" and "Florist", which contain the full range of essential trace elements. Sweet greenhouse pepper is very responsive to spraying with drugs "Aurum", "Novosil" or "Epin". with regular use of which the leaves cease to fall off. In addition, the leaves become an indicator of many plant diseases, which should be taken into account when examining a vegetable crop.
Pepper does not form buds with excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil
Peppers don't bloom
If greenhouse-grown peppers do not bloom or produce very few peduncles, the following factors must be taken into account:
It should be remembered that pepper does not form buds when nitrogen fertilizers are applied excessively to the soil, including weed infusion or manure, which is categorically not recommended for peppers. If a flowering pepper sheds flowers or ovaries, then the cause may be short-term frosts, as well as sudden temperature changes or watering with cold water.
Causes of falling buds in pepper (video)
Dry pepper bushes
Pepper is considered a fairly resistant vegetable crop and the complete drying of the bushes may indicate the critical state of this plant. If greenhouse pepper dries without apparent reason, you should pay close attention to the following parameters:
In addition, pepper often grows poorly and dries quickly when affected by many diseases and pests, including aphids and spider mites. as well as viruses and fungi such as late blight, rot, blackleg and fusarium wilt. The treatment regimen is selected depending on the type of pest and the stage of development of the disease.
Pepper bushes can dry out due to excess moisture in the soil.
Peppers do not set fruit
If the greenhouse pepper blooms profusely, but the ovary does not form, then this may be due to several factors, the most common of which is the so-called pollen sterility. This phenomenon is the result of the following main reasons:
The main ways to combat this phenomenon are the use of the Bud, Gibbersib and Zavyaz preparations, which should be used to spray plants in the morning. When flowering, it is necessary to reduce the amount of irrigation of plants. To attract pollinating insects to the greenhouse, you should spray with syrup and plant honey plants. In addition, an effective measure is strict adherence to the ventilation regime.
If greenhouse pepper blooms profusely, but the ovary does not form, then this may be due to pollen sterility
We also invite you to learn about the features and options for using the Mittlider method for greenhouse structures.
Fruits do not turn red on pepper
There are several reasons explaining the slowdown or complete absence of the ripening process of already formed pepper fruits. However, it should be borne in mind that the degree of redness depends on the variety grown in greenhouse plants. Presently wide use received varieties and hybrids of pepper, which have an exotic purple, white or orange color in the stage of maturity.
As a rule, peppers do not always turn red on the bush. A lot of gardeners pick fruits at the stage of incomplete ripeness, which allows the plant to form more ovaries. Thus, not only the fruiting period of the plant is extended, but also the yield is significantly increased.
How to grow a good crop of sweet pepper (video)
If it is necessary to obtain fully ripened fruits, it is necessary to carry out additional feeding of plants with complex fertilizers, as well as remove excess ovaries, which consume the energy and nutrition necessary for the ripening of already formed fruits.
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Then, despite the seeming harmlessness of this phenomenon, it is necessary to pay close attention to the problem, since the cause of such atypical leaf fall can be serious diseases of the plant or a gross violation of agricultural practices.
Causes of leaf fall in pepper
In the event that healthy-looking seedlings of pepper begin to turn pale, turn yellow or fall off the foliage, then the following factors may be the reason for this:
- plants were planted in unsuitable soil: depleted or poor in nutrients;
- the irrigation technique was violated: the temperature regime was not observed, an insufficient amount of water was used, during irrigation a large amount of moisture fell on the leaves;
- shading of beds with plants or too low temperature in the greenhouse;
- damage to a vegetable crop by pests or microorganisms that cause various diseases.
What to do if the leaves fall off the pepper
First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the scheme according to which the seedlings were planted. Pepper is a plant that does not tolerate crowding very well, therefore, if the beds are excessively thickened, it is necessary to thin out and plant the seedlings at a sufficient distance from each other. A gap of 30-40 cm is considered optimal, but this value may vary depending on the variety and size of the expected fruits.
With insufficient soil fertility or under adverse external conditions (long rains, lack of heat and light), the pepper root system reduces the intensity of its work and the plant ceases to receive nutrients in the right amount, which causes leaf loss. You can correct this situation with the help of dressings: irrigating the leaves with a strong infusion of garden or meadow grass, as well as watering with such a growth stimulator as sodium humate.
In addition, it should be remembered that pepper does not tolerate high soil acidity and excess nitrogen fertilizers. Gardeners who prefer organic feeding, it is worth noting that the most suitable fertilizer for pepper, wood ash is considered, which is brought into the ground during the autumn processing of the beds. When using peat, it is necessary to take into account its ability to increase the acidity of the soil.
Proper watering
Even if all necessary conditions plant care, the leaves still fall off the pepper, then the reason for this may be improper watering. This vegetable crop is considered quite demanding on the quality of irrigation: the soil must be moistened evenly, without excess moisture or long droughts. Watering is done only with well-heated water, because pepper can begin to drop leaves even after a single use of too cold water. Most favorable time for irrigation, it is considered early morning or the first hours after sunset, while the earth is still warm.
But, despite the fact that pepper is considered a heat-loving crop, excessively dry air in the greenhouse, lack of ventilation and excessive heat also do not benefit the plant. If leaf fall is due to the fact that it is too hot outside, then many gardeners solve this problem by fixing specialized non-woven materials on the greenhouse ceiling.
In cold and rainy summers, when cloudy days prevail, greenhouse plants need to be provided with additional illumination with lamps.
Pepper is a fairly common crop to grow, and many gardeners are happy to place several bushes on their site. So that the pepper does not get sick and pleases with its fruits, it is necessary to pay a lot of attention to it. But when the problem has already arisen, and the bushes turn yellow, and then the leaves fall, it is necessary to understand its root cause. The answer will be found in this article.
Causes
Peppers have many reasons to part with their foliage. Perhaps such a reaction does not bode anything terrible, or perhaps right now it is necessary to quickly carry out a series of rescue procedures. But first things first.
- Light. From the moment a sprout appeared from the ground, you need to monitor its condition. And the first thing that can affect well-being is the degree of illumination. The lack of such a factor, whether sunlight or artificial, will provoke seedlings to stretch. If this goes on too long, the pepper sprout may become exhausted and begin to lose its foliage.
- The soil. The cause of the problem may lie in acidic and heavy soil. Peppers will not like to grow in such conditions. And strangely enough, its subsequent reaction will be manifested in yellowing, followed by dropping of leaves.
- Diseases. The soil initially infected with bacteria or fungi will probably be unacceptable for the life of immature seedlings. And you also need to be prepared for the fact that pests can emigrate from another place and harm the plant.
- Space. No need to save money by allocating small containers for seedlings. In cramped conditions, the plant will begin to tangle and rot the roots. This will significantly reduce the flow nutrients, which will entail a number of other problems, including dropping foliage. If it is possible to plant pepper on time, then, of course, you can use small peat pots. But if there is still at least a month before planting, the growing container should be large, about 0.5 liters per plant.
- Lack of moisture. In dry weather, especially before transplanting into open ground, it is very easy to miss the drying of the earth in a pot.
- Excess moisture. Overwatering can also cause leaf loss in peppers.
- Temperature. Far beyond the temperature regime (less than + 12 ° C at night and above + 26 ° C during the day) is another common cause of the problem.
- Transfer. This is just the case when, in order to cope with leaf fall, you just need to wait. Planting pepper in a new place is almost always accompanied by stress, which can manifest itself in the form of yellowing of the leaves with their further fall.
This situation does not pose a potential threat to the life of the plant. Of course, provided that the pepper did not begin to shed its foliage even before transplanting.
- Minerals. Poor minerals the soil will not be able to satisfy the large nutritional needs of peppers. First of all, nitrogen deficiency will manifest itself. Starting from the lower leaves and above, their green color will gradually change to yellow. And with a long-term shortage of the mineral, everything will not be limited to yellowing, and the plant will begin to lose foliage. In addition to nitrogen, one cannot do without such important substances as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, iron and others. How to prevent mineral starvation in pepper will be discussed below.
- Sunburn. The problem is more relevant for regions with a very active summer sun. On days when the sun's rays carry a critical amount of energy, an uncovered bush, especially young seedlings, can get sunburn. But, on the other hand, pepper is a photophilous plant. Therefore, in such conditions, you need to competently plan a place for growing, maneuvering between the sizzling sun and a deaf shadow.
- Water temperature. Anything that can lead to a shock state of the plant, one way or another, will affect the health of the foliage. By watering with cold water, the risk of damaging the root system increases, which then will not develop properly. This will inevitably cause complex damage to the pepper.
- Pests. Some small insects will also want to taste delicious bell pepper, but not its fruit, but the deciduous part. Plant juices will act as the main dish for pests. Leaves from such exposure will not be able to stay with the plant for a long time and will soon leave it.
Treatment
As it became clear, there are quite a few factors that can lead to dropping foliage. Based on the list above, some problems can be easily prevented, but others require detailed consideration. To begin with, it is worth highlighting those measures that will be aimed not at momentary treatment, but at preventing the disease.
Prevention
As mentioned, heavy and acidic soil is by no means the best substrate for growing peppers. In order for the culture to develop without complications, you need to prepare everything. The introduction of rotted manure or humus in the fall will help improve the structure of the earth, making it looser. And the problem of acidification will be perfectly solved by adding wood ash or chalk.
In addition, improving soil quality in this way will prevent the formation of another common problem: mineral deficiencies. Manure or humus in this case will act as a very capacious source of nitrogen. And wood ash simply leaves no chance for the development of a phosphorus deficiency. And with other important minerals, there will also be no problems with such a complex introduction of these elements.
If the amount of land is small, for example, the volume that seedlings need, then you can use thermal method. Freezing the soil for several days or calcining it in the oven with a high degree of probability will not allow the seedlings to get sick.
When it comes to disinfecting large amounts of land, which is especially true for greenhouses, then calcination is clearly not the best method here. In this case, the microbiological preparations "Gamair", "Fitosporin" and others are well suited. Presented to date big choice such means aimed at combating both insects and fungi. At the same time, without losing the quality of the substrate itself, even in the long term of use. It is also possible to specifically combine plants and elements environment to create a bio-shield from various ailments, but this is a separate issue.
Operational measures
Diseases and pests that can lead to leaf fall on pepper do not always winter in the ground next to the plant. They may appear suddenly. Let's figure out what to do in this case. First you need to figure out the type of attackers, insects or fungus.
spider mite
Small white dots on the foliage will indicate the appearance of a spider mite. These insects are unlikely to destroy the plant, but the yield will definitely be reduced. To control pests in the early stages, you can try picking them by hand or with a wet sponge, but this is a very laborious undertaking if you do not have a couple of diseased plants at your disposal. A more effective method would be the use of biological preparations, such as Biovir, Nissoran, Fitoverm and others.
Aphid
More dangerous pest compared to a tick, it is an aphid. You can find it with the naked eye on the back of the sheet. A colony of these insects is able not only to reduce the future harvest, but also to kill the plant by sucking out all the juices. The same drugs that are suitable for eliminating spider mites will help in the fight. And also aphids really do not like ashes. Therefore, spraying in the morning with a solution of wood ash with water will be a good solution.
Fusarium
A very dangerous and common fungal disease, Fusarium, leads to yellowing and falling off of foliage. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to say for sure that the pepper is affected by this particular disease. This is because fusarium at first looks like a nitrogen deficiency.
Yes, no matter how unfortunate it may be, the fight against Fusarium in its active stage is ineffective. Better to keep what you have than to lose everything. The remaining plants are treated with Gamair, Previkur or Fitosporin.
Blackleg
Another dangerous fungal disease is the black leg. Based on the name, the main symptom of infection is already clear. The stem at the base of the plant darkens and thins, and the same changes occur with the foliage, it turns yellow and falls off. Having found the fungus in advance, you can try to deposit the infected in a separate place. And there already begin to treat with the same drugs that are used for fusarium. But it’s worth saying right away that there are not so many chances for a successful recovery in plants, therefore, having found a black leg, most often they are immediately burned.
Care rules
A number of simple plant care measures will help save those forces, who would otherwise go in search and elimination of various ailments.
- Do not pour cold water. It is better to leave a container of water for watering at home, then the temperature will be optimal.
- Water only after the top layer of the soil has dried out, so as not to create once again favorable conditions for the development of mold.
- Check soil moisture more often, especially for seedlings growing in containers. At least the simplest method is suitable for analysis: if a finger, deepened into the soil by one phalanx, does not stumble upon a wet layer, it's time to water.
- Regularly inspect plants for infection by fungal diseases or insect pests.
- Harden seedlings before transplanting into open ground, so as not to stress the plant, increasing the risk of infection with the same dangerous diseases.
- Choose the right greenhouse model so as not to violate the temperature regime. AT southern regions This actual problem due to overheating during the day.
You can learn more about why pepper sheds leaves in the next video.
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