Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries side by side. Is it possible to plant different varieties side by side

Strawberries grow on almost every suburban area. Gardeners know that to get a good harvest, it requires careful care. One of the questions about which disputes often arise is whether it is possible to plant strawberries nearby. different varieties. The answer to it will be presented in today's article.

Pollination Risk

Many summer residents believe that different varieties of garden strawberries should be located in different places, they should not be planted next to each other. Similar advice is sometimes given by the sellers themselves. It is the mixing of varieties and subsequent cross-pollination that is called the reason for the low yield and small berries.

In fact, this is nothing more than a myth. Cross-pollination is double fertilization, as a result of which the seeds receive both maternal and paternal qualities. This will definitely affect the quality of the crop.

Strawberries are a plant that does not have true fruits. The berry used for food is an overgrown receptacle with exclusively maternal properties. It does not depend on what kind of pollen was involved in the pollination process. Therefore, different varieties of strawberries on the same bed cannot affect the quality of the crop.

Why should varieties be separated?

Recommendations for planting different varieties of garden strawberries separately from each other are due to the fact that a person can subsequently get confused in them. One way to propagate this culture is to use daughter outlets formed from mother plant. Since each bush gives a lot of whiskers that can become planting material, in order not to confuse varieties, it is recommended to separate them. Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other? Yes, but for breeding only the species you like, it is worth grouping them. You can also plant in separate rows or spread over different beds.

Distance between bushes

Having decided to settle garden strawberries on their site, summer residents often ask a question related to optimal distance between bushes.

There are several methods for locating outlets on the territory. The distance between strawberries during planting depends on the method chosen.

Individual bushes are located at a distance of about half a meter from each other. Most often, strawberries are planted in rows. This method is the most convenient and gives a high-quality harvest. The distance between the bushes should be about 25 cm, and between the rows - up to 60 cm. The easiest way is to plant a "carpet". The dense placement of rosettes protects against weeds, but requires careful handling of the whiskers. Otherwise, strawberries will spread far beyond the habitat.

Another option for placing garden strawberries on the site is planting nests. The meaning of this method lies in the location of one bush in the middle, and 5-6 are planted around it. The distance between strawberries when planting nests is about 7 cm. At the same time, about 30 cm must be left between the nests themselves.

Methods for propagating strawberries

To plant strawberries on the site, you will need planting material. It can be bought as a seedling, grown from seeds, or using the mustache of existing plants.

Many people know the rules for planting strawberries in the spring. Seedlings need to be hardened by placing it for a while in a cool place. It is important to pay attention to root system. It should be well developed and always with soil on the roots. Before planting, you need to prepare the soil and dig holes. The rules for planting strawberries in spring and autumn are the same. It is important that the roots in the hole are vertical. Holding the bush with one hand, you need to cover the roots with the other, not forgetting to tamp the ground.

reproduction garden berry with the help of a mustache has its own subtleties. To get strong planting material from a bush, it is necessary to remove flowers from it, preventing the appearance of berries. In this case, all the food will be given to the mustache. When they appear, you need to leave the strongest, and eliminate the rest. After the appearance of the roots of the plant, it is necessary to dig into the ground or immediately into a pot. At the end of July, the daughter bush can be separated from the mother bush and planted in the garden.

Getting seedlings from seeds

Growing strawberries from seed is the most in a complicated way receiving seedlings.

Seeding times must be observed. This is done in late February or early March. The soil should be light and fertile. Baking powder should be added to it. Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other? It is possible, but better seeds separate and define them in different places. This will allow you not to get confused in the future and evaluate the most good options. If you germinate the seeds in advance, you can immediately select weak specimens. They are also recommended to be hardened by placing them in a place with a temperature slightly above zero. Strawberries love the sight, so they need to be constantly watered. It is necessary to take care of sufficient lighting. Germination can take two to seven weeks.

planting strawberries in open ground seeds possible in spring. In autumn, it is necessary to transfer the grown plants to their permanent place.

Planting site for strawberries

For the bushes to bring a good harvest, optimal soil for them, black soil with the addition of ash is considered. In order for strawberries to overwinter well, the bushes must hold snow well. For this purpose, some use spruce branches as an additional covering material.

Is it possible to plant strawberries of different varieties next to each other, how can this affect the size of the crop? Some gardeners note that the berries on some bushes are getting smaller. They blame this on the location of several varieties in one place. small berries appear for other reasons. Most often, a poor-quality crop appears due to the depletion of the soil and the degeneration of the variety. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant strawberries to a new place every 5 years. It is also necessary to replace varieties, especially if the bushes are affected by pests.

Gleb
Can I plant different varieties of strawberries side by side?

The end of summer and the beginning of autumn is the time to plant strawberries. If you are going to plant this crop for the first time, it is possible that you will come up with the idea to place several varieties next to each other in the garden. There are disputes among experts - is it possible to do this, whether this method of planting will harm the plant.

What happens when different varieties of strawberries are planted side by side

There is an opinion among gardeners that if you plant together different strawberries, you will get a mixture of varieties or even a degeneration of culture. They blame such a property as cross-pollination for this. Indeed, neighboring plants will be pollinated by the same insects. However, any breeder will reassure you with a confident argument:

What many call a strawberry berry is actually an overgrown receptacle of a plant. It will have the characteristics of a mother plant, regardless of the mixing during fertilization with the pollen of a neighboring flower.
The principle is also relevant in relation to child sockets and mustaches.
Seeds are inclusions on the receptacle. They will depend on the composition of pollen, but on taste qualities and appearance strawberries will not be affected.

Attention! Strawberries are self-pollinating plants. It can successfully produce berries when planting one species. However, it has been proven that in the neighborhood of two certain varieties and their cross pollination yields and fruit quality are improved.

If you propagate strawberries with a mustache (vegetatively), then new plants will take over the properties of the mother. But if you collect seeds from a pollinated sample and plant seedlings, then the child plants will not be a copy of the "parents". It turns out mixed variety. Breeders use the effect of cross-pollination, plant different varieties of garden strawberries nearby for crossing. That's how most were bred modern species garden strawberries. And closely growing varieties do not affect the quality and yield of plants planted in the garden and do not cause degeneration.

Follow the rules of agricultural technology when growing strawberries

Planting strawberries nearby: pros and cons

The reasons for planting different varieties of garden strawberries in nearby beds can be:

desire to try different types;
the desire to choose the best among them for further cultivation;
small area size.

Experienced gardeners warn that when planting several varieties of strawberries on the same bed, you need to follow the rules of care:

Attention! At one place garden strawberry grows well only 4 years.

If you are looking after the garden, but the harvest has worsened with the new season, the reason for this may be:

With varietal seedlings, you brought the strawberry weed variety Bakhmutka, Zhmurka, Suspension, Dubnyak to the site. They may look like strawberries but not bear fruit.
The seeds of the pollinated species fell to the ground and sprouted by accident. At the same time, varietal ones could, for example, die from frost. Such randomly crossed varieties are very tenacious and prolific: they will grow, but the berries will be bad.
The earth was exhausted, the plants grew old.

It is possible and even useful to plant different varieties of strawberries together, but you should strictly adhere to agricultural technology and carefully care for the garden.

Harvest varieties of strawberries: video

Quite often you can hear a similar question from gardeners. To answer this as fully as possible, you should first understand the features of the agricultural technology of any strawberry. Naturally specific variety requires individual approach , but these are particulars that are used in a particular case. They depend on the characteristics and requirements of a particular type.

reproduction

Mustache rooting is the main way to propagate strawberries in your area.

In most cases, strawberries propagate by growing and then transplanting stepchildren. A week after planting, new seedlings are already able to give additional roots, firmly grasp the ground. Remontant varieties can be propagated by sowing seeds However, this method is usually used in large agricultural firms, on farms, since this is a rather lengthy and troublesome method.

The division of the bush

But the division method from the bush is also used. To do this, you should choose powerful healthy bushes, find the conditional boundary of the separation of the lateral roots, and divide.

The bush chosen for division is dug up and its roots are washed.

It is necessary to carefully monitor so as not to violate the integrity of the solid root. If this happens, the plant can be thrown away, since the damaged rhizome will not be able to adapt and will die.

Each division should have its own spine.

The seating chart for ordinary and remontant strawberries is similar- compact bushes are seated at a distance of at least twenty centimeters, more large bushes- at a distance of forty or more centimeters.

Landing dates

Planting time - spring, late summer, mid-autumn.

Seeds are sown in a container in February, and seedlings are planted in open ground, as with conventional methods - spring, summer, autumn.
It is noteworthy that the best bushes biennial plants are considered for planting.
On the new seedlings, stepchildren are cut off so that the mother bush does not waste energy on feeding the side branches, but strengthens the root system, then the plant adapts faster and enters into active development.

Soil selection and preparation

It is characteristic that for each particular variety a certain type of soil is needed.

The planting mixture for each type of strawberry will have to be prepared taking into account individual needs.

One loves sandstones, another - chernozem. In addition, there are plants that develop better in mountainous areas, or in areas located on slopes. There are hybrids for which a shaded garden area would be ideal, due to their particular sensitivity to direct sunlight. General requirements for all types of strawberries:

disinfection of the earth from possible pests;
destruction of weeds;
fertilization and feeding;
digging;
loosening;
hydration.

After the most convenient place for planting has been chosen, the site should be disinfected from possible soil pests - the larva of the May beetle, cabbage. Decontamination is required for greater disease resistance.

fertilizers

Among other things, a number of fertilizers for plant nutrition are introduced.

Mainly used organic top dressing- an aqueous solution of humus, peat, chicken manure, urea.
And also compost is made from leaves, peat and manure.
Allowed to use finished preparations bought in gardening stores.
Fertilizing should be prepared strictly according to the instructions on the package.
It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the type and variety of the plant.
If they are seated early varieties strawberries - less fertilizer is used, and if the plants are of medium and late ripening, a smaller amount.

Mulching

To create more favorable conditions it is recommended to mulch the bed with new gardens.

For these purposes, it is used wheat or rye straw, pine needles, sawdust. You can cover the soil under the bushes with black agrofibre. Such measures help to prevent the growth of weeds, retain moisture in dry weather.

As well as limit the contact of berries and leaves with the ground, which is a preventive measure against gray rot, keep the fruits clean, prevent rotting in rainy weather.

Strawberries of any variety respond well to mulching.

Preparing for the winter

Remontant strawberries will bear fruit even in late autumn.

Differences in the training of remontants and non-remontants differ slightly.

The fact is that regular strawberry, as a rule, is highly resistant to frost, while remontants in most cases do not have this feature. Therefore, in preparation for wintering, for ordinary crops, you can limit yourself to a small layer of mulch or thin agrofiber on the arcs. Many varieties can not be covered at all for the winter.

Bushes of ordinary strawberries do not need careful shelter.

The repairmen - the vast majority - need a dense cover. The bed is covered with a thick layer of mulch, a solid frame or arc structure is built, covered with roofing material or dense agrofibre. You can cover with dry leaves instead of straw or sawdust. During the winter, both the mulch and the leaves will rot, a kind of additional fertilizer is formed.

Most remontant strawberry varieties require shelter for the winter.

In addition, there are types of culture for which the southern climate is preferable, and in northern regions or in middle lane the plant reacts to the slightest cold snap. In this case, cultivation is recommended only in closed ground- greenhouses or greenhouses.

This bed with remontant strawberries survived cold winter even without cover!

Features of the neighborhood of ordinary and remontant varieties

There are some types of strawberries that are unable to self-pollinate.

In order for pollination to occur, a similar variety is planted nearby, but already capable of self-reproduction. As for the distance, as a rule, the beds are delimited by other crops.

On this plot, the owners separated two varieties of strawberries with a bed of onions.

Allowed on the border different types plant cabbage, onion, garlic, Bell pepper . Most often, gardeners use garlic for demarcation. It is not recommended to plant strawberries next to potato field. But it is also worth refraining from planting hot peppers in the neighborhood. It is necessary to avoid proximity to high and dense garden crops, as a shadow will constantly fall on the strawberry beds, and this slows down growth and reproduction, affects the size and taste of the berries.

findings

The proximity of different species - remontant and ordinary in no way affects any of the species.

Influence and degeneration can occur only in one case - when planting seeds. If seeds were sown, and for some reason the seeds of two varieties were mixed up, and the emerging seedlings were planted as one species. In all other cases, the plants are not threatened.

Video about why ordinary strawberries are better than remontant ones

Hello! Is it possible to small area plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other? Margarita Semyonovna.
Disputes about whether different varieties of strawberries can be planted side by side or, nevertheless, they should be planted in areas remote from each other, do not subside among gardeners. This article will help you understand how nearby planted varieties affect each other and what can increase the yield of strawberries.

Yes or no joint landings different varieties of strawberries

According to biological laws, strawberry varieties planted nearby do not affect each other in any way, since the resulting berries carry only the varietal characteristics of the mother plant and are not the result of cross-pollination of neighboring varieties. In view of this, planting different varieties of strawberries in the same area is quite acceptable. And yet, as the experience of strawberry cultivation shows, there is one argument that convinces of the need for, if not remote, then at least divided plantings.

Different varieties of strawberries will not interfere with each other in the same area

Attention! When growing different varieties in neighboring beds, it should be ensured that the growing whisker cuttings take root only in their own bed, without climbing into the next one. Otherwise, after 1-2 years it will be difficult to distinguish where which variety is planted - they will simply mix with each other.

You can avoid mixing if you plant several beds of garlic between neighboring varieties. And if the area allotted for strawberries is very small and there is simply nowhere to plant other crops, pieces of slate will come to the rescue, which must be dug between neighboring varieties, forming a fence 30-40 cm high.

The need for separate landings is also caused different periods fruiting and care requirements for different stages growing season. Harvesting and caring for separately planted varieties is much easier.

So that the varieties are not confused with each other, you can plant garlic between them.

It should be noted that some varieties of strawberries, even when planted separately, begin to shrink over time. This process is natural and is associated with biological feature varieties. In this situation, you should simply update the variety regularly or replace it with another, more stable one. In addition, the quality of the soil and compliance with agrotechnical conditions have a great influence on the size of berries and their yield.

Tips for good harvests

1. Thinning. Please note that most varieties reduce yield precisely because of the dense plantings. Carrying out thinning increases the feeding area and the amount of useful substances in the remaining bushes, respectively, the level of their fruiting increases.

Attention! Removing excess mustache layers also has a positive effect on strawberry yields.

2. Good lighting. Planting strawberries in the shade of bushes and trees negatively affects yields. The more sunlight will get a strawberry bush, the more berries you can collect.

To keep the yield high, varieties need to be updated periodically.

3. Low beds. When growing strawberries in high beds, plants often suffer from drying out in summer and freezing in winter. The only exception is the presence of stagnant water in the ground, in which case high beds are the only salvation.

Advice! For mulching strawberry plantings, you can use compost, straw, needles, mowed chopped grass, sawdust, peat.

4. Mulching with organic materials. This simple agrotechnical primer will not only save time and effort, but also protect the root system of plants from damage during weeding.

5. Feeding. Regular top dressing helps to increase the yield of strawberries. The main thing is not to overdo it, because with an excess of nitrogen in the soil, the bushes will be powerful and densely leafy, and there will be few berries.

Strawberries of all varieties need regular feeding

6. After the end of fruiting, strawberry bushes do not cease to need care, because at this time the future harvest is being laid. Do not forget to remove weeds, water and feed strawberry plantings until the beginning of autumn.

Regardless of the number of strawberry varieties on your site and their close planting to each other, obtaining consistently high yields depends only on the quality of agricultural technology.

Top dressing strawberries in the spring - video

author Nedyalkov S.F., photo of the author

Beginning gardeners very often ask me the question: do not closely planted different varieties of the same plant species in the garden (raspberries, strawberries, tulips, etc.) cross-pollinate? Gardeners are worried - will the variety be “lost” if other varieties of similar plants grow next to it?

The answer to this question is unequivocal - of course, because of this, the variety will not be “lost”! On the contrary, due to mutual pollination, the yield of fruit and berry plants of different varieties will increase significantly.

It is necessary to understand once and for all that plants such as raspberries, strawberries, tulips, and many other inhabitants of the garden reproduce vegetatively (layers, rosettes, bulbs). Conditionally vegetative reproduction can be called dividing a plant or obtaining clones that are 100% identical to the parent specimens.

Another thing is if plants are propagated by seeds. In the seed fund nature laid various options previous cross. To make it easier to understand, look at your children: they are not 100% copies of their parents, because they are propagated by seed. The same happens with plants, because we are part of one World.

Seed propagation of plants is used mainly to obtain new varieties.

If a gardener complains that a plant suddenly had a “loss” of a variety, which resulted in a decrease in yield and chopping of fruits, then in fact this is the result of improper care or a consequence of plant damage by diseases (especially viral ones), or - natural aging of the plant .

"Loss" of varieties in raspberries and garden strawberries

I give a simple example: raspberries in one place bear fruit very well for 10 years. Then its productivity falls, as in this place there is an accumulation of pests, soil depletion (mainly due to a lack of trace elements), and a growing shortage of shoot nutrition area. If these shortcomings are eliminated, then raspberries can be grown in one place for much longer, since the recommendation of 10 years refers to production plantings (where plant care is much worse than in private gardens). For example, a well-groomed raspberry has been growing in one place for 17 years, and I still don’t notice the aging of its plantings.

The crushing of berries and the decrease in the yield of strawberries may be associated with the biological characteristics of the variety. There are varieties of strawberries that bear fruit very well. long years and at the same time they have large berries, every year they give a sufficient number of rosettes (for example, a variety Lord). And there are varieties that stop breeding in the third year (for example, varieties Marshmallow, Hummi Gento). But most often, the gardener, due to ignorance, lack of time and insufficient care, “loses” valuable varietal features plants.

So, for strawberries, fertile sandy soils. Good and correct top dressing plants, watering as needed, loosening the soil contribute to the growth of a strong root system, and ultimately - high yield strawberries on next year. Dig up a two- or three-year-old strawberry bush and look at its root system: if the plant is poorly cared for, there are few young roots, they are short. What kind of harvest then can we talk about? Indeed, in strawberries, it is the one-year-old roots that nourish the plant most intensively, and the old roots turn into a “cork”. Therefore, it is necessary to focus not on the growth of the leaf mass (which happens with enhanced nitrogen fertilizing), but on the normal growth of the root system. fertile layer strawberry plantings should be at least 20 cm so that dead cork roots do not squeeze the plants out of the ground. Otherwise, where will they form young roots?

After fruiting, it is imperative to add fresh earth to the base of the strawberry bushes (it is even better if you add compost from rotted plant residues or humus). If it is not possible to do this, then grow strawberries in one place for only two years. In fact, garden strawberries are a very labor-intensive crop, and it is unforgivable to maintain them somehow. The decrease in yield and the "loss" of the strawberry variety can occur due to simple human laziness.

It is necessary to select the best bushes to remove rosettes from them for the propagation of strawberries. To obtain high-quality planting material for rosettes, it is imperative to have a mother liquor; on all mother plants, only flowers break off. Such strawberry mother liquors can also be kept under trees (although they will have fewer outlets than on open space, as they will get less sun and moisture).

If you are already acquiring new plants, then be sure to buy varietal strawberries. Very often in the market I hear: "Victoria" - instead of correct name varieties. Yes, there was once such a variety, but so long ago that it is unlikely that anyone has preserved it. You do not need to buy junk planting material from such a seller, which is usually very cheap. Varietal rosettes of strawberries cannot be "almost free" because they require painstaking care.

With a close planting of mother plants for reproduction, it is impossible for the rosettes of strawberries of different varieties to be confused with each other. After all, if different varieties grow together, then the variety that gives large quantity rosettes, will gradually replace the variety, which reproduces worse vegetatively. In order not to lose a valuable strawberry variety, which gives fewer high-quality rosettes, it is necessary to plant a larger number of its mother bushes in a mother plantation.

For transplantation to a permanent place, I dig out all normally developed rosettes from the mother liquor. In warmer climates for growing season on the main lashes of strawberries, lateral, usually weaker rosettes are formed. And, if such sockets are planted long time, then gradually the strawberry variety degenerates.

It should be taken into account that only a strong, healthy strawberry variety selected for large fruit and productivity is capable of producing stable yields for several years (unless, of course, there are such frosts in May, as it was in 1999-2000).

"Loss" of a variety in tulips

With the "loss" of a variety in tulips, crocuses and other bulbs, it is more difficult.

A decrease in flowering or a “loss” of a variety, for example, in a tulip, can occur not only from improper care, but also from plant damage by viral diseases. Of the pathogens, the most dangerous is the variegation virus. A typical sign of the manifestation of this disease is a change in the usual pattern on the flower petals and the appearance of stripes of a different color that is not inherent in this tulip variety. Novice flower growers, amateurs in this matter, are unknowingly very happy with the miraculous appearance of such unusual flowers in their garden. But this “miracle” will cost them dearly. If urgent measures are not taken, then the entire collection of tulips will perish.

In the world assortment of tulip groups there is a Rembrandt group, the varieties of which have variegated flower petals. If you buy their bulbs from a reliable Dutch company, then they do not have viruses: with the help of genetic engineering, the code of this virus in plants is disabled (the virus is present without showing itself in anything). But in the future, the grower is deprived of the opportunity to identify diseased plants in this group, since they outwardly do not differ from healthy ones. In addition, varieties of the Rembrandt group can also become infected with other types of viruses, but remember the previous petal pattern. variegated flower almost impossible. Therefore, amateur growers should refrain from purchasing tulips from this group.

There is only one way to fight the variegation virus - to ruthlessly destroy all diseased plants so that the sucking insect carriers of the virus do not have the opportunity to infect healthy plants from diseased tulips. When cutting flowers, it is necessary to disinfect the knife after each plant (for example, in a 1% formalin solution or in a very strong solution of potassium permanganate).

Usually specimens infected with the variegation virus bloom later than the main mass of plants of this variety (provided that the planted bulbs are approximately the same size (parsing)). This fact is the first sign for visual inspection of a suspicious plant.

After a cool spring and early summer, there are fewer plants affected by the virus the following year, since the sap-sucking insects are less active in cool weather.

It is also possible to “lose” a variety due to the fact that some groups and varieties of tulips are unstable under the conditions of a given climate zone. Then, even if all the agrotechnical methods of their cultivation are maintained (annual digging, keeping the bulbs until planting at certain temperatures, planting at the most favorable time for the rooting of the bulbs, shelter for the winter, etc.), the plants will still gradually wither. Such unstable plants include some varieties of tulips from the groups Kaufman, Greig, Terry (varieties Stresa, Princess Charmant and etc.). In the descriptions of tulip varieties, there is data on the susceptibility of this variety to diseases (for example, it is written: “the variety is resistant to the variegation virus”). Before purchasing planting material, read the descriptions of the features of the varieties of interest.

The eastern and northern parts of Belarus are not entirely favorable for growing tulips, and a common mistake of flower growers is growing tulips without digging them up. In order not to “lose” the variety, tulips must be dug up every year; in last resort- in a year. The essence of digging bulbs is not only to divide their overgrown nest (lack of food area). But it also helps to adapt the bulbs to our climate by "adding" heat to them for full development(after all, the temperature in the soil is always lower than in the air). In cold years, in the soil, at the depth of the bulbs, there is insufficient temperature to go through the entire cycle of plant development. In this case, when growing tulips without digging up bulbs, next year a significant number of non-flowering plants will be observed among them. If this situation is repeated often, then due to the chopping of the bulbs (lack of nutritional area and space for growth) and the incomplete development cycle, the plants degrade, the variety is “lost”.

During drying and storage of tulip bulbs, the temperature should not be raised above +34 degrees, and bulbs should not be kept at temperatures below +17 degrees for a long time. Most optimum temperature storage is +20…+22 degrees. To prevent the bulbs from becoming moldy, they must be well ventilated until planting.

Optimal time planting tulips - when the soil temperature drops to + 9-12 degrees (approximately from September 15 to October 15 - depending on geographical latitude and weather). So, in the Vitebsk and Mogilev regions of Belarus, you need to hurry up with planting tulip bulbs.

Subject to the terms of planting the bulbs and their normal rooting, tulips are quite winter-hardy, and you can limit yourself to mulching them (cover the planting site with rotten sawdust, peat or compost with a layer of 2–3 cm). Do not cover plantings with tulips, crocuses and other bulbs for the winter with straw or leaves, otherwise mice will eat the bulbs.

Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich (Novopolotsk, Republic of Belarus)
[email protected]

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Very often, novice gardeners are worried about whether the grape varieties planted nearby will pollinate. The answer to this question is very simple - of course they will be pollinated. But the taste, color, ripening period of fruits and other qualities of berries will not change.Only the seeds in the berries will be hybrid.Cross-pollination of grapes is a normal phenomenon.Without it, we will not see the harvest.

Although varieties with bisexual flowers can be pollinated independently, within the same bush, pollination from other bushes is also useful for them - then the harvest will be especially generous.

There are also varieties with functionally female flowers that cannot be pollinated by their pollen. For example: Laura, Talisman, Kesha, Elegant, Sashenka, Atlas and others.

If the weather is cold during flowering or it is raining, then the work of pollinating the flowers must be done by ourselves, armed with powder puffs, and pollinating by hand.

Pre-puffs are “charged” on bisexual varieties and only then they begin to pollinate functionally female ones. This work will not take much time, but the brushes will not be torn or sparse.

Additionally, several times a day, you need to shake the trellis wires to improve the pollination of the bushes. From the rain, such bushes can be covered with a film. With all the shortcomings, these varieties have advantages. So, the Talisman has a very large berry- up to 20-25 g. Black Delight has a very large bunch - up to 2 kg. Laura is distinguished by a large, elongated milky-white berry ...

Additional pollination is also not superfluous for varieties prone to pea. They are additionally pollinated, even if the weather was favorable for flowering. Experiments were also carried out on the pollination of bisexual varieties with powder puffs. As a result, out of more than 20 varieties, only one variety had larger berries than usual, and the color and taste remained the same.

Even when the weather is favorable for flowering, it is useful to remove leaves and stepchildren in the area of \u200b\u200bthe clusters, since clusters covered with foliage are less pollinated.

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Quite often you can hear a similar question from gardeners. To answer this as fully as possible, you should first understand the features of the agricultural technology of any strawberry. Naturally a particular variety requires an individual approach , but these are particulars that are used in a particular case. They depend on the characteristics and requirements of a particular type.

reproduction

Mustache rooting is the main way to propagate strawberries in your area.

In most cases, strawberries propagate by growing and. A week after planting, new seedlings are already able to give additional roots, firmly grasp the ground. Remontant varieties can be propagated by sowing seeds However, this method is usually used in large agricultural firms, on farms, since this is a rather lengthy and troublesome method.