Does Anthurium love the sun. Anthurium: all about reproduction at home

Flowers of a fiery or sky-blue hue attract the eye, delight and make you run into flower shop to buy this beauty to grow. Anthurium rightfully occupies a leading position among ornamental plants. His unearthly beauty look, bright colors and shiny, juicy green leaves decorate the interior of the room, cheer up.

Proper care is the key to a healthy and beautiful plant. Anthurium is capricious, does not tolerate drafts and temperature changes. Any deviation from the prescribed temperature or humidity can lead to illness.

  • Anthurium should be constantly watered with warm, settled water.
  • Abundant watering is recommended during the period - in the summer.
  • The soil should always be moist, but not wet and swampy.
  • During the dormant period, anthurium is watered less frequently.
  • In the summer, a sprinkling or spraying procedure is carried out every 5 days.
  • The air around the flower is constantly moistened. It is important to prevent overflow or drying of the earthy coma.

Top dressing is carried out every three weeks with complexes or. Active application in summer, in winter, top dressing is stopped. It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen complexes. Anthurium responds well to organic matter. The first fertilization is carried out immediately after, a break of two weeks and re-application. Then they feed every 3 weeks until October.

Young anthurium is transplanted every year in the spring, and mature plant every 2-3 years.

If it is clear that the roots have entangled the entire earthen ball, the anthurium can be transplanted at other times of the year. Rooted cuttings are transplanted in the spring. is needed not only so that the plant has enough space for growth, but also to enrich the soil. The soil is rapidly depleted. This can result in poor flowering or stunted growth.

Anthurium is propagated by dividing the bush, apical cuttings, and side shoots. The latter are taken in case of formation of aerial roots on them.

The cuttings are rooted in the substrate prepared for them or in wet drainage - expanded clay.

Anthurium seeds are propagated very rarely. This is a delicate matter and requires patience. To obtain seeds, the plant is artificially pollinated and waiting for the appearance of fruits - up to 12 months. Each berry produces 2 to 5 seeds.

Whatever method of reproduction is chosen, the grower needs to be patient and carefully care for the cuttings or shoots.

The most common disease of anthurium is anthracnose. The leaves dry up at the edges and die. If nothing is done, the plant may die. As soon as characteristic spots are found, immediately remove the leaves and treat them with fungicides. An advanced disease is difficult to cure.

It is almost impossible to protect yourself from pests, since they love exactly the environment in which anthurium develops - heat and humidity.

Proper care, timely, optimal growing conditions will help grow a healthy, strong and plentiful blooming anthurium. Do not be lazy, take care of a capricious plant and everything will work out!

More information can be found in the video:


Anthurium: dossier

The genus Anthurium is the most numerous in the Aroid family. Up to 900 species are known, distributed throughout tropical and subtropical America. The name of the genus is translated as "flower-tail", from Greek words anthos - flower and oura - tail, and reflects the shape of an elongated inflorescence.

The name "flamingo flower" is also common because of the predominant pink-red range of cobs and bedspreads.

No less famous is the popular name of the flower-heart, ”by association with the common form of the latter. For florists, anthurium is considered a "male" plant and is associated with strength, courage and courage. Therefore, most often the inflorescences of anthurium are saturated bright colors as a bouquet they give it to men.

ANTHURIUM ANDRE

A few decades ago, Anthurium Andre, named after the French botanist Edouard Andre, who first discovered it in the jungle, was grown mainly for cutting. For room conditions, it was too large and preferred the humid air of greenhouses and greenhouses. The selection went in the direction of enlarging the cover of inflorescences, improving its shape, obtaining new colors. To date, many A. Andre varieties of compact size, with numerous inflorescences, capable of successfully adapting to room conditions, have been bred.

A. Andre's inflorescence is a straight ear of yellow, orange or red. Small, diamond-like flowers are spirally arranged on it. But the main decoration of the anthurium is the veil. Its shape is varied - heart-shaped, oval, lanceolate, linear, there are even varieties with a double veil. Colors range from green to white, cream to brown, pink to burgundy black. There are with contrasting venation, two-, three-color, speckled, marbled, with a smooth, wrinkled, glossy or matte surface.

ANTHURIUM SCHERZER

This second most popular type of anthurium comes from Guatemala and Costa Rica, in culture since 1875. Differs in compact growth. The stem is shortened, often underground, the leaves are dark green, hard, with small black dots on the reverse side. The ovoid bedspread is often red, strongly recurved, almost perpendicular to the peduncle, decorative for up to three months. The cob, twisted in a spiral, looks like a "pig's tail". Modern varieties Perfectly suited for growing indoors.

lighting for anthurium

Anthuriums require bright diffused lighting. With a lack of light, Anthurium Andre stretches and does not bloom. Anthurium Scherzer is more unpretentious in this regard, but it also blooms willingly and abundantly only in good light.

On the other hand, an excess of sun, for example, on the southern and western windows in summer, causes discoloration of the leaf blades, drying out of their tips and the appearance of spots. Therefore, in summer, plants should be shaded from direct sunlight or kept at some distance from the window.

temperature for anthurium

The optimum temperature of the content is within + 20-22 degrees. At values ​​below +18 degrees, plants slow down growth, and at +12 degrees, the roots stop absorbing water and begin to die, the lower leaves turn yellow. Heat above +28 degrees is also undesirable: the growth of anthuriums slows down, flowering stops. Summer heat will help to transfer high humidity, shading and regular watering.

Optimum air humidity for anthurium

Keep a pot of anthurium on a tray of damp expanded clay or among other plants that evaporate a lot of moisture from the surface of the leaves. It is useful to spray stems with aerial roots. You can spray the leaves only with warm distilled water (it does not leave muddy marks). When watering and spraying, water should not fall on the inflorescences in order to avoid spots on the bedspread.

Don't fall for the trick

On sale there are anthuriums painted in unnaturally bright green, yellow, purple and even blue colors. This "miracle" will delight you until the paint introduced into the peduncle runs out. New bedspreads will most often be white.

Plant small size, but with one incredibly large "beefy" bedspread, it can surprise you - with subsequent flowering, it will turn out to be miniature and paler in color.

Watering anthurium

Anthuriums are best watered with boiled settled, slightly lukewarm (about +25 degrees) water. In summer, to stimulate growth, it can be heated to + 32-34 degrees. Once a month, to maintain the acidity of the soil, it is advisable to add natural lemon juice(1 tsp / l).

Watering regularly, immediately after the soil dries out. Stagnation of moisture is unacceptable, it disrupts the respiration of the roots, which leads to their decay. The water from the pan is drained after 15 minutes. after watering, you can leave it only in the summer heat.

Anthuriums do not tolerate strong drying: the roots die off, the leaves curl up. The overdried plant is first moderately moistened, sprayed and placed in a transparent plastic bag so that the leaves are not crowded. After two weeks of being in a warm, humid and bright place, the root hairs will recover and the plant will be rehabilitated.

Substrate and planting anthurium

"Shop" anthurium is transplanted no later than three months after purchase. The container is selected with a diameter of 3-5 cm more than the previous one. In a pot that is too spacious, plant growth stops and flowering stops.

For anthuriums, drainage is very important. Instead of traditional expanded clay, you can use pieces of foam (0.7-1.5 cm), as well as combinations of expanded clay with coarse sand, foam with expanded clay. It is good to add pieces of birch charcoal.

When transplanting, be very careful with thick, fragile roots. wooden stick gently loosen the lump from the sides, remove upper layer soil, drainage or excess soil from below. Do not wash the roots! This is the strongest stress for the plant, washing the roots is allowed only if emergency, with severe root damage, for example, with root rot.

A good result is given by a fish fin planted during transplantation. A layer of earth is placed on the drainage, then a piece of fresh fish fin, sprinkled with earth, and then a root ball is installed (the roots should not touch the top dressing).

The freshly laid substrate is compacted by tapping on the pot. The surface is mulched with sphagnum. Moss is replaced annually, cleaned dry. Together with it, a significant part of the accumulated salts is also removed.

Reproduction of anthurium

In industrial greenhouses, anthuriums are bred by tissue culture using in vitro technology. This method allows you to get a large number of plants in a short time (from one plant - up to 5,000 per year). But it should be noted that when using leaf pieces for propagation, a high degree of self-clonal variability is manifested and plants of the same variety located in the same pallet may differ slightly from each other.

In the store, choose copies with larger and bright inflorescences, with good leafiness, compact shape.

In home collections, varietal anthuriums are propagated vegetatively - stem processes and apical cuttings. It is better to do this in the spring. The children are separated by twisting and, having sprinkled the wounds with crushed activated charcoal, they are planted in a greenhouse for better rooting. With the onset of active growth, they are transplanted into slightly larger pots.

Apical cuttings root easily in wet moss, in a mixture of sand and coal and in water - due to the presence of aerial roots. A piece of birch charcoal is dipped into the water as an antiseptic, supported optimum temperature+22-24 deg. A month later, under diffused bright light, roots are easily formed in the cuttings, there is practically no loss of leaves. After planting such cuttings in the soil, it is desirable to strengthen them for the first time with props so that they do not stagger and can quickly gain a foothold in the substrate.

You can rejuvenate an elongated adult plant by the method of air layering. To do this, part of the trunk is wrapped in wet moss and covered with a film fixed at the ends with wire, in the form of a candy. The uniform moisture content of the moss is maintained with a syringe. With the advent of the roots, the crown is separated and planted, and the stump will give new shoots.

Anthurium feeding

In spring and summer, anthuriums are fed with fertilizer for orchids 1 time in 2-3 weeks. Ideally, such top dressing alternates with organic ones. If the composition of the soil does not include pieces of old mullein (enough for a year), an infusion of mullein or horse manure the color of weak tea leaves (1 tablespoon per liter of water). Fertilizers are always applied the next day after watering. Chicken manure cannot be used, it is close in action to mineral fertilizers, which anthuriums do not really like.

The substrate for anthurium is best made on the basis of leafy soil:

  1. leaf ground, 1 hour,
  2. coniferous. 1 hour
  3. coarse-fiber peat, 1 hour,
  4. sand, 1 hour,
  5. 0.5 h of a mixture of pieces of coal, bark (1-2 cm), coarsely chopped sphagnum,
  6. pieces of old mullein, 1 tbsp. spoon per liter of substrate.

You can also use ready-made soil for orchids based on peat, but 10-15% baking powder (pine bark, chopped sphagnum, coal, pieces of weathered mullein, small expanded clay, polystyrene) must be added to it. The structure of such a mixture will improve and the addition of coniferous earth will slightly acidify it.

IF ANTHURIUM DOES NOT FLOWER:

  • The plant does not have enough light.
  • Pot too big or weak root system.
  • Lack of nutrients, the plant has not been transplanted or fed for a long time.
  • At the base of the stem there are many small vegetative shoots, they take away nutrients and do not allow the plant to bloom. In this case, one or more of the strongest shoots are left, the rest are removed.
  • The stem of an adult anthurium is too long, the aerial roots dry up before reaching the ground. A transplant with a lower placement is recommended. Or, as in the case of propagation by layering, you can use sphagnum moss, only at the same time loosely wrap the entire stem with it and, without covering it with a film, fix the moss with a thin fishing line or silk thread. If there are several stems, you can pull them together with soft wire, wrap them with moss and fix them outside with a plastic mesh rolled up. The roots will pass through the moss into the substrate, and the plant will bloom again.
  • Often anthurium stops blooming in winter, reacting to a short daylight hours. In this case, additional illumination with fluorescent lamps will help, in which the total daylight time is at least 12, and preferably 14-16 hours a day. Lowering the night temperature to + 15-16 degrees, with slight drying from October to January, also stimulates flowering

Anthurium: home care - personal experience

Cob on a red heart

Anthurium is a decorative and deciduous, beautifully flowering evergreen plant native to the tropics and subtropics of Central and South America. We grow it in room conditions.

The main flowering period of the plant is from spring to mid-autumn, but with good conditions growing it can bloom all year round. Each peduncle consists of a bright scarlet, pink or white heart-shaped veil and a sinuous cob. The stem is short. The leaves are leathery, dark green, dense, erect. The root system is superficial.

Conditions for growing anthurium

This is a photophilous plant, but it may well grow in partial shade. From direct sunlight anthurium must be protected, as it may appear sunburn leaves. The best place for placement in the apartment there will be a window to the east or northeast direction.

For irrigation it is necessary to use soft settled water. room temperature. It is impossible to allow complete dryness of the earthen coma in a pot and waterlogging of the soil.

In early spring and summer, plants need abundant watering, and in winter - moderate. In addition, it is useful to regularly spray the plants and wipe the leaves from dust.

In summer, the temperature regime should fluctuate within 20-25, in winter - at least 15-16 degrees. The soil temperature should be at room temperature, so it is better to use plastic pots and not clay.

Reproduction of anthurium

Anthurium is propagated by seed and vegetative methods. Its flowers are bisexual (each plant has female and male organs), but their maturation occurs at different times.

For top dressing, you can use organic fertilizers (bird droppings, leaf humus) once a month. The combination of organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers gives the most effective results. From mineral fertilizers we can recommend "Azo-phos" with the addition of potassium humate (every 2-3 weeks). Root top dressing can be alternated with foliar.

Therefore, seeds are obtained by artificial pollination. To do this, the pollen is transferred with a brush from one flower to another, this procedure is done within 2-3 days. After 8-12 months, fruits ripen - berries with seeds that lose their viability very quickly. After removing the seeds from the berries, they are washed with water and immediately sown on wet filter paper in a Petri dish. Then, after 2-3 weeks, the germinated seeds dive into a container with a soil substrate (two parts of leafy soil and peat and one part of sand). As the plants grow, they dive several more times until their rosettes reach a diameter of 8 cm. Then they are planted in pots, where they develop as independent plants. Unfortunately, flowering in anthurium obtained from seeds begins only after 3-4 years.

Vegetative propagation of anthurium is carried out by stem offspring and cuttings. They are separated from the mother plant and if they are together with the roots, then they can be immediately planted in separate pots with soil. If there are no roots or they are poorly developed, the cuttings are rooted in sand or perlite.

He doesn't like this

Anthurium does not tolerate drafts, sudden temperature fluctuations, direct sunlight, stagnant water in a pot and drying out of the soil. All this leads to the appearance of pests and diseases.

Most often, scale insects and aphids settle on anthurium from pests. As a result of the sucking of juices by pests, the leaves of plants curl, turn yellow and dry out. The most effective in the fight against sucking insects are insecticides "Bi 58 new", "Aktellik", "Fury".

At first glance, anthurium is somewhat demanding in care, although not so much as to refuse it. It is better to understand your plant and try to provide the anthurium with the necessary home care.

How to properly care for anthurium and what is required for its development and flowering? At home grown in particular two beautifully flowering species anthuriums: Andre (A. andreanum) and Scherzer (A. scherzerianum).

The vast majority of cultivated forms of anthurium are epiphytes. Many of them are well kept in warm and humid greenhouses.

Temperature and lighting...

For full growth and generous flowering, anthurium is satisfied with the conditions of detention that are suitable for orchids: constant heat, bright lighting but not direct sun, high humidity.

Close to natural room temperature in summer - 20-28C, in winter period not lower than 16-18 ° C, away from heating devices.

Anthurium Scherzer hybrids require two months of cooler maintenance (12-16 ° C) in winter, while reducing watering. In order for the anthurium to bloom earlier, in January they begin to gradually increase the temperature to 20-25 ° C.

Since the plant tolerates drafts and temperature fluctuations very painfully, in a frosty winter it is better to place it not on the windowsill, but indoors, providing additional artificial lighting using fitolamps.

In low light, the anthurium will not bloom, and in too bright light, its bracts will become less saturated in color. Therefore, when caring for an anthurium flower, it is important to find the "golden mean".

Humidity is an important factor in the care of anthurium ...

Be sure to pay attention to the quality of watering, the water should be soft and warm, well settled. Water sparingly as soon as the soil dries out. For healthy anthuriums, it should always look slightly damp, but drying it out a bit is fine.

Very often, the opinions of flower growers differ regarding air humidity.

  • Some believe that the flower must be sprayed every day.
  • Others are satisfied with wiping the leaves with a damp cloth.
  • Still others increase the humidity of the air by setting flower pot on a pallet with damp moss, expanded clay, or cover the base of the plant with sphagnum, constantly moisturizing it.

However, when using any of these methods, you need to adjust the room temperature depending on the general condition of the plant. Spray and create humidity around the anthurium at a temperature not lower than 20 degrees.

High humidity at a low temperature of 16-18C will lead to infection of the flower with fungal diseases. Low humidity at the same temperature will reduce resistance to various pests: scale insect, spider mite, aphid. Therefore, in the event of any critical situations, it is better to replace conventional spraying with a wet wipe of the leaves.

Overcooling of the root system should be avoided by watering only with warm and soft water. Try not to create excessive moisture, otherwise a fungus will appear on the soil.

To keep the leaves clean, it will not be superfluous to arrange an anthurium every week warm shower. The substrate is recommended to be covered plastic bag. After the leaves are completely dry, put them back in place.

Blooming Anthurium - a dream come true if you know what care should be.

How to choose the perfect substrate?

Anthurium planted in heavy soil will quickly lose its attractive appearance(leaves and flowers will become smaller), besides, it will start to hurt. The commercially available universal soil for aroids is “a bit heavy”, and the mixture for orchids is poor in nutrients.

The ideal soil should be loose, slightly acidic, nutritious, water-intensive and well permeable. You can prepare the composition yourself by mixing the soil for azaleas or begonias (two parts) with perlite, pine bark and sphagnum (one part each).

Some flower growers grow beautiful anthuriums hydroponically, planting them in a mixture of perlite with expanded clay, or in pure sphagnum. Such soils retain moisture well, provide normal respiration of the roots and maintain optimal humidity.

When grown on a hydroponic system, in winter the plant must be kept at a temperature of 18C, illuminated with phytolamps, water for irrigation should be replaced twice a month with a hydroponic solution.

Choosing a pot and transplanting anthurium.

Young healthy anthuriums are transplanted annually into new slightly bigger size containers, older specimens - every 3 or 4 years. Transplantation in the latter case is combined with reproduction by dividing the bush into small divisions.

If the anthurium looks healthy, blooms well, then it can be left in the purchased container until the end of flowering. In the case of a cramped pot (roots are visible), the flower should be transplanted into a large container using the transshipment method.

If the plant looks sickly, poorly or does not bloom at all, its root system must be well cleaned from the ground, old and injured roots removed, sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal, and after drying, planted in a new substrate.

To receive a large number children pot is better to choose wider. In order for the anthurium to bloom more magnificently, the dishes should be a little cramped and not deep.

For good survival, the flower must be sprayed with Epin and placed in a heated greenhouse. In the atmosphere high humidity after a couple of months, the plant will successfully recover.

Fertilizing Anthurium.

Top dressing is carried out after transplantation, after about a month. Further feeding is desirable to be carried out every 2 weeks in the summer, in the winter once every 2 months.

To obtain abundant flowering, anthurium is fed with mineral fertilizers, for example, Kemira, Ideal, alternating them with organic ones.

In some cases, fertilizers are not used when growing anthuriums. This is acceptable if the plant blooms well and grows in a nutrient substrate, receiving necessary care and enough light and moisture. Sometimes half the dose indicated on the package is enough.

Reproduction and rejuvenation of anthurium.

Sometimes, even with seemingly proper care, anthuriums lose their decorative effect and require rejuvenation. The timing of aging in most species and varieties can be determined by the formation of an unsightly thick trunk with leaf remnants.

For rejuvenation, they take the upper part of the plant, cutting it off so that 2 or 3 aerial roots remain. The top with the root is planted in a greenhouse with a loose substrate and left for 2-3 weeks for rooting.

The old anthurium does not need to be thrown away. It will very soon have new sockets that will help save mother plant with unsuccessful rooting of the apical part.

With proper care, anthurium will please not only original colors in the form of an inflorescence-cob and bedspreads, but also with numerous lateral shoots with roots.

Difficulties in growing anthurium.

The anthurium flower can be affected by fungal diseases, the leaves turn yellow and fall off if it is not properly cared for. The conditions of detention have been violated, or some damage has been received, for example, during transplantation, they suffer from the activity of pests.

Below are the most common diseases and lesions of Anthurium:

  • The process of yellowing of the leaves and their further fall is not uncommon in anthurium. The main reasons are violation of the rules of care: watering, lack of nitrogen fertilizers, lack of light, too bright sun, and so on.
  • Chlorosis (leaves turn yellow but veins remain green) is often due to a lack of iron or magnesium. It is enough just to use iron chelate or algae extract.
  • Small leaves, with yellow spots appearing on them, indicate malnutrition.
  • Black and brown spots on the leaves - the plant signals waterlogging and cold content.
  • The leaves dry up low humidity and watering with cold water.
  • twisted leaves without visible damage- too bright sunlight, frequent drafts, dry air.
  • Dark or small yellow translucent spots are left on the leaves. spider mite and shield.
  • Too much sphagnum in the substrate, there may be decay. In the depths of the pot there is enough moisture due to the moss, but from the outside it looks like it's time to water.

Timely treatment and treatment with insecticides and fungicides guarantees successful recovery. Care should be taken to indoor anthurium. Watering, of course, must be reduced. Wait a little with spraying, Instead of water, pour the substrate with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxim ...) Trichodermin in the form of a powder can then be poured into the soil mixture.

And most importantly, learn how to properly care for such plants. Anthurium is beautiful and elegant, if you make all the necessary efforts to care for it, then the home flower will delight you with its beauty and flowering all the time.

We will tell you all about such an interesting and popular houseplant as Anthurium. Let's talk about the origin of anthurium, about its magical and healing properties oh, and most importantly, consider the conditions for keeping and growing anthurium at home.

Anthuriums in nature

Anthuriums are widespread in tropical and subtropical America. Anthuriums are found quite high in the mountains. In the Andes of South America and the Cordillera Central America some species grow at altitudes up to 3400 m above sea level. Moreover, even at an altitude of 3000 m, almost at the upper border of the forest, anthuriums often reach very impressive sizes. Many types of anthuriums are epiphytes. There is a group of anthuriums that thrive in the rather arid climate of the American savannas.

The history of the appearance of anthurium

Anthuriums belong to the extensive Aroid family (Araceae). The genus Anthurium was described in 1829 by Heinrich William Schott (1794-1865). Already at that time it was clear that this group of plants, found from northern Mexico to southern Brazil, is one of the most extensive among the aroids. At the very beginning of the 20th century, when A. Engel revised the monograph genus Anthurium, he included 58 species of plants growing in Central America. Currently, this list has been expanded to 219 species, and the discovery and description of new ones continues before our very eyes. According to professionals, in modern indoor floriculture Anthuriums are the leaders of plants from the Aroid family.

The most significant contribution to the study of anthuriums was made by Eiji Matuda, who devoted more than 30 years to the study of this group of plants. He mainly paid attention to anthuriums growing in Mexico (Chiapas province). In particular, Matuda discovered and described 36 species of anthuriums. He summarized his research in a monograph published in 1954.

No less important are the studies of J.S. Banting, who from 1959 to 1962. made several expeditions to little explored areas of Mexico. He summarized the data obtained in the book Notes on the Aroid Plants of Mexico, which was published in 1965. A number of researchers who concentrated their attention on studying the flora of a particular territory also contributed to the herbarization of anthuriums. For example, these are D. Bridlov Chiapas), R. Baker and V. Burger (Costa Rica), MacDougall (Mexico, Oaxaca), D. Neil and V. Stevens (Nicaragua) and many others. An active researcher of the aroid plants of Central America is the American botanist T. Croat. In particular, he described such types of anthuriums as A. alatipedunculatum, A. bucayanum, A. hebetatum, A. impolitum and A. ravenii.

An important role in the spread of anthuriums as plants in culture was played by the French landscape designer Edouard André (1840-1911). In 1860, as an employee of the firm of Alphand and Hausmann, he landscaped Parisian parks, squares and boulevards. Later, André became the first secretary of the Horticultural School of Versailles, which grew into the Higher National School of Horticulture. In 1889, Andre introduced the species of anthurium, whose homeland was the humid western slopes of the Colombian Andes.

This plant is now known as A. andraeanum. In 1950, an employee of the University of Hawaii, X. Kamemoto, began a program to breed varieties of this species. The work has borne fruit; suffice it to say that in 1987 André's total trade in anthurium flowers was estimated at US$8.3 million.

Anthurium content. Anthurium care

Where is the best place to place the anthurium? Which window is better to choose for anthurium?

If you put the anthurium on the south window

Near a south-facing window, the anthurium may suffer from direct sunlight. If you see that during the day a stream of intense sunlight falls on the leaves of the anthurium, the plant must be covered with a light-scattering curtain or moved deeper into the room.

If you put the anthurium on the east-west window

Anthurium will have enough light if you put the plant pot close to a window facing east or west. However, in this case, cover the plant from direct sunlight. The light can be quite bright, but it must be diffused.

Anthurium location - north window

Near the windows facing north, the anthurium will feel good. However, in this situation, he may not have enough light to lush flowering during the spring and summer period. In such a situation, additional illumination using fluorescent lamps daylight won't hurt.

Since in nature anthuriums often grow under the canopy of sprawling tropical trees they are relatively shade tolerant. However, the abundance of diffused light has a beneficial effect on the well-being of anthuriums. Intense light stimulates flowering, and the color of the bedspreads becomes more intense. The only thing that should never be forgotten is that direct sunlight is destructive for anthuriums. At the same time, Andre's anthurium varieties are more light-tolerant than Scherzer's anthurium varieties.

Temperature conditions for growing anthurium

Anthuriums are plants of the humid tropics and subtropics, therefore, for their successful maintenance in room conditions, high temperature and humidity are required. However, these requirements are not excessive, and therefore anthuriums are successfully grown as spectacular houseplants. Optimal conditions for anthurium can be provided in warm room with a temperature of 20-25°C. In this case, the pot with the plant should not be near the battery. central heating. In winter, the temperature in the room with anthurium can drop to 16 ° C. Moreover, cool wintering at a temperature of 17-18°C stimulates subsequent abundant flowering in spring. Remember that for anthuriums, it is not so cold air as such that is especially dangerous, but drafts that these plants cannot tolerate.

How to properly water and moisturize anthurium

Water the anthurium only with settled water at room temperature. Anthuriums react poorly to "hard" water containing calcium salts. Watering should be plentiful, but not too frequent. The soil in the pot should dry out between waterings. Excess moisture leads to decay of the stems and the development of fungal diseases. In the case of anthurium, a slight lack of moisture in the soil is better than its excess. Reduce watering in winter. If the air in the room is not dry, drops may appear on the leaves after heavy watering. The phenomenon of "weeping anthurium" is not evidence of poor health of the plant. Spray the foliage daily during the growing season. In the summer months, this procedure is carried out twice a day - in the morning and in the evening. Try not to get liquid drops on the flowers. Anthurium pot can be placed in a tray with wet expanded clay. Make sure that there is no excess water in the pan, which can be absorbed into the earth mixture. Anthurium leaves can be wiped from time to time with a damp cloth.

Brick chips can be added to the soil for anthurium

For watering under the root, it is better to use a watering can with a long spout.

What should be the soil for anthurium

The soil for anthurium should be fertile, slightly acidic (pH 5.0-6.0), dry well, permeable to water and air. A mixture consisting of 1 part of sod land, 1 part of large river sand and 2-3 parts of leaf humus. As a basis, you can use the land "Begonia". You can also use a mixture of leaf humus with peat and pine needles, which will create the necessary acidity. It is recommended to add coconut fiber, pieces of charcoal, pine bark (2-5 cm in size) and chopped fern rhizomes (preferably epiphytes) to such a mixture. As a baking powder, you can use perlite or pieces of pumice.

Pumice can be replaced with fine expanded clay. Good results are obtained by adding semi-rotted horse manure.

What pot to use for planting anthurium?

Since anthuriums have a shallow root system, use flat, low pots for growing them. To increase the humidity, it is better to put a pot with a plant in a tray with moistened gravel or expanded clay.

Anthurium bloom

Anthurium inflorescence is an ear surrounded by a brightly colored veil. For the sake of this bedspread, which is a modified leaf, various varieties of anthuriums are grown. The flowers are small, spirally arranged on the surface of the cob; they are bisexual, that is, they have both pistils and stamens. In order to prevent self-pollination, the appearance of stigmas of mature pistils and stamens is usually separated in time. During the so-called "female phase" of flowering, only the stigmas stick out. Ripening of pistils usually begins at the base and rolls in a kind of wave to its top. When the liquid on the surface of the stigma dries, miniature stamens appear on the surface of the cob. Flowering lasts from several hours to several weeks. Anthurium fruits - berries Often, after ripening, they remain connected to the cob with threadlike stripes.

What top dressing to use for the active growth and flowering of anthurium?

For normal development and abundant flowering of anthuriums in room conditions, it is necessary to regularly feed. A good, but not too long-lasting effect is given by the introduction of semi-rotted horse or cow manure into the earthen mixture when transplanting. Organics can be applied several times during the spring - summer season by pouring leaf humus onto the soil surface. This procedure can be omitted if commercially available liquid organic fertilizers are added to the soil. Before use, they are diluted according to the attached instructions. In the same way, once every 2-3 weeks, they are introduced into the soil and mineral supplements. Usually they are alternated with organic. You can also spray anthurium leaves with a solution of mineral fertilizers, making sure that drops of liquid do not fall on the flowers. Good results are obtained by the use of fertilizer "Ideal".

The magical and healing properties of anthurium

It is believed that anthurium is the embodiment of the masculine principle. This plant helps men to correctly combine their sexual energy with the dictates of the heart, as well as to direct the vital energy of Qi in the direction of creation and creativity. Connoisseurs of the mystical and healing properties of plants claim that anthuriums stimulate hematopoiesis and have a beneficial effect on the treatment of cardiovascular diseases.

Anthurium is able to protect a person from actions that can lead to consequences that negatively affect the emotional component of life. However, do not forget that anthurium juice contains calcium oxalate crystals, which irritate the mucous membranes. It is curious that in folk medicine The roots of some anthuriums are used to make a remedy for headaches.

A tea made from parts of the A. acutangulum plant helps treat whooping cough.

This tropical plant of the aroid family has attracted the attention of flower growers with its decorative evergreen foliage and unusual flowers, consisting of a bedspread wrapped in a spiral around an inflorescence-cob. Anthurium flowers remain fresh when cut for up to three weeks and are often used by phytodesigners in arranging bouquets.

Most of the approximately 900 natural species are epiphytes or semi-epiphytes.

Read below:

  • Types of anthurium for indoor floriculture;
  • Conditions necessary for the maintenance of anthurium;
  • How to care for anthurium at home;
  • Rejuvenation of an old flower;
  • Antrium breeding methods;
  • Diseases and pests of anthuriums;

Types of anthurium for indoor floriculture

The most widespread of all the variety are two decorative flowering species - Anthurium Andre and Anthurium Scherzer and two decorative leafy - Anthurium magnificent and Anthurium crystal. Consider a photo.

Anthurium Andre

A plant with large heart-shaped leaves on high petioles. The shoot is covered with numerous aerial roots. The heart-shaped bedspread is textured, with pronounced streaks or bubbles. The color of flowers varies from red to delicate pink, sometimes greenish, yellow and white.

Anthurium Scherzer

A small anthurium, the size of which does not exceed 40 cm. Leathery dark leaves are covered with black dots on both sides. Large flowers rise above the leaves. Varieties with a twisted tail look very original.

Anthurium magnificent and Anthurium crystal

These varieties are quite similar to each other. They have large velvety foliage with a pointed tip and pronounced voluminous white or silver veins that form a unique pattern on a dark background. The spathe of flowers is greenish, rarely with a purple tint.

Conditions necessary for keeping anthurium

Plant care is quite complicated. Anthurium grows best in closed greenhouses with a supported tropical microclimate. Care at home requires more time and care. As an option - growing in closed arboretums.

Growing temperature range

For proper development and regular flowering, it is required to create a difference in the microclimate of the winter and summer seasons. summer months the temperature should vary within 20-25 ° C, in winter a decrease to 16-18 ° C is required.

Sudden changes in temperature and drafts weaken the plant.

Requirements for lighting

Anthuriums are quite shade-tolerant. Decorative leafy varieties perfectly exist on north windows. Decorative-blooming towards the light are more demanding. They need to be grown in good brightness, but avoid direct sunlight, which causes leaf burns.

AT winter time or in shaded places, it is desirable for the plant to organize artificial lighting with a predominance of the red and blue spectra of the lamp.

Proper watering and spraying

As a native of the rainforest, the anthurium flower needs high humidity.

Watering is carried out soft warm water 3-4 times a week. In winter, water less often - once every seven days is enough.

To maintain optimum moisture around the surface of the plant, use daily spraying through a fine spray.

Around the flowerpot, you can lay out pieces of sphagnum moss. The moisture evaporated from the surface of the moss tray will create a wonderful microclimate.

Advice! Keep an eye on the humidity and always drain excess water from the pan. Overdrying and overflowing are equally disastrous for the root system.

How to make a soil mixture

The pot is required to be selected wide and not very deep, a little more than the root system. A good drainage layer is required.

The soil mixture should be light and loose, large fraction. When compiling it, the following ratio is taken: for 4 parts of humus, 2 parts of leaf unsifted earth, 2 parts peat and 1 part sand. Charcoal, moss and pieces of cones are added to the ground up to 15% of the volume. These inclusions increase the air and water permeability of the substrate.

The Ph reaction should fluctuate within slightly acidic limits - from 5.5 to 6.5 units.

How to care for anthurium at home

In addition to maintaining optimal conditions, anthuriums require some care - regular transplants and top dressing.

Advice! When working with anthurium, it is advisable to wear gloves. The juice of these plants is poisonous and causes severe irritation when it comes into contact with the mucous membrane.

How often to feed anthuriums

Top dressing is required only during the period of active flowering or growth. Both excess and deficiency nutrients in the soil can lead to visible defects on the leaves and flower bedspread.

In order not to be mistaken, breed half of the norm liquid fertilizer for indoor ornamental flowering plants and water once every 2 weeks.

Landing and transfer rules

In the spring, once a year, a young anthurium is transplanted. Transplantation at home does not cause any particular difficulties. You should knock on the edges of the pot so that the roots are easier to separate from the walls. We take out the plant along with an earthy clod. A well-developed root system is usually tightly woven. It must be gently shaken off, removing loose pieces of soil. Do not be especially zealous so as not to damage the brittle roots.

We install the plant in the center of the pot with drainage and pour the earth mixture on the sides, periodically shaking the container. This will allow you to better fill the voids between the roots with fresh earth.

Once every two years, an adult anthurium requires soil renewal. Transplantation is performed in a similar way and may be accompanied by the division of an overgrown bush.

You can see how to transplant anthurium at home on the video.

Rejuvenation of an old flower

With age, the lower part of the stem becomes bare, the leaves and flowers become smaller and lose their decorative effect. Rejuvenation will help restore the former beauty.
You can simply cut off the top of the shoot with aerial roots and plant it in a new pot with prepared soil mixture.

If the roots on the shoot are in their infancy, the cutting can be placed in warm boiled or distilled water. When the roots sprout, the plant is transplanted into a pot.

Important! At a room temperature below 20 ° C, an attempt to root the cutting in water may result in decay.

There is one more original way rejuvenation by cuttings. The shoot is not cut immediately, but the appearance of roots is stimulated by tying a piece of moss around the bottom of the branch intended for cutting. Moss moisture is constantly maintained until roots sprout through it. A cut is made under the roots, powdered with charcoal and planted.

leaf polishing

Anthuriums look great with polished leaves. For this, the plants are sprayed with a special phytospray for 20-30 seconds.
Polishes remove stains from water drops, prevent dust settling, give a beautiful glossy shine to the sheet plate without affecting the course of photosynthesis processes.

Anthurium propagation methods

For those who appreciate anthurium, plant propagation is possible in several ways:

  • dividing the bush;
  • stem cuttings;
  • seeds.

The division of the overgrown bush is performed in the spring during the transplantation of the plant. The main task is to carefully unweave the roots and evenly divide them between the two parts to be separated. It is advisable to powder the wound at the place of separation of the common root and breakage of the roots with powder activated carbon to prevent rot.

For cuttings, take the top of the shoot with several aerial roots. On some bushes, you can take a side shoot with its own root system.

Propagation by seeds is more laborious and time consuming. As a result artificial pollination Anthurium develops berries, each of which ripens from one to four seeds. Before planting, the seeds are soaked for two hours to prevent mold fungi in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Germination is long. Seedlings can be expected in two months, and the first flowering - only after 4 years.

Diseases and pests of anthuriums

In violation of growing conditions or in the absence of preventive measures from pests, diseases can occur in anthuriums.

Signs of the disease and treatment

  • Anthurium leaves curled into tubes. The lighting is excessively bright and provoked the activation of the protective mechanism. Move the pot away from direct sunlight. The plant will react quickly and unfold the leaf blades.
  • Black spots appeared on the flowers. The result of large drops of water falling on the plant. You need to spray carefully, using a good sprayer. Sometimes an excess of calcium salts in the soil mixture or content in a cold room manifests itself in this way.
  • The stems started to rot. The manifestation of excess moisture and watering. It is recommended to remove the affected stems, on which putrefactive bacteria and fungi develop. For treatment, it is necessary to completely stop watering and spraying until the earth ball dries. Further watering reduce, spraying is carried out less intensively.
  • appear on the leaves dark spots. Excessive moisture and watering. Slightly dry the flowerpot and normalize the moisture of the plant and the earthy coma.
  • Yellowing of lower leaves. Can talk about an excess of fertilizer or too cold temperature content.
  • Massive yellowing of leaves. Indicates problems with the root system. The plant is urgently removed from the pot, the dead parts are removed and planted in fresh soil.
  • Drying of leaves. May be normal as they age. If the leaves dry en masse, check for mites or aphids. The tips of the leaves can dry out with insufficient air humidity and high temperatures.
  • Why doesn't anthurium bloom? The lack of flowering is a sign of insufficient lighting, a mismatch in the size of the pot, or an overestimated temperature of the content. Move the pot to a bright spot out of direct sun, transplant and lower the room temperature below 20 degrees to encourage flower bud set.

Advice! Closer to spring, the plant is shed once with warm (from forty to fifty degrees) water. Such watering will provoke lush flowering.

  • Aphids are clearly visible to the naked eye. Most of all it affects the young, most tender parts of the plant. The plant is easily cured by spraying with special preparations.
  • Shchitovka: dark spots appear on the leaves. On the reverse side of the leaf, a brown tubercle is clearly visible in this place. Helps against scabies by wiping the leaves with a solution laundry soap or spraying with insecticides.
  • Spider mite. The leaves turn yellow in spots and curl, young leaves grow into an irregular degenerative shape. Requires acaricide treatment.
  • root nematodes. Thickenings and tubercles on the roots indicate the defeat of anthurium by nematodes. Such a disease is not subject to treatment. The plant and flower pot are destroyed (preferably burned to prevent the spread of nematodes).

Advice! Ceramic pots can not be disposed of, but sterilized in the oven.

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