Why did the cedar turn yellow in spring. Cedar seedlings grown in the climate of central Russia

White bloom this is the aphid Siberian Hermes, this is normal, it periodically appears on all cedars, this is an insect. Cedar gets along with him. When its colonies grow strongly, our insects begin to eat them. Therefore, if in the spring you see red, green, gray bugs or ladybugs, do not be afraid and do not spray insects with anything, they can handle it themselves. The amount of “cotton wool” that is present on your plants is generally uncritical, that is, you can not spray anything, this is due to the change of residence and the weakened state of the plants in connection with this. It is necessary to spray if the "cotton wool" covers more than 20-30% of the skeletal branches with a dense layer. But you will understand it immediately when you see it. It will not climb on other plants, it will not even climb on pines, but it is necessary to observe the family of cedar pines (Siberian cedar, Korean, Weymouth pine).

Cedar with Hermes Fufanon should not be sprayed in spring? Somehow I'm worried that Hermes will grow ...

In the spring you will observe how the cedar and local insects will cope with it, if suddenly it develops strongly. Once again, I focus your attention on the fact that your number on the barrel is nonsense. Do not panic, because extra spraying is not needed, you will kill and everything is useful, after all. For the growth of Hermes, certain conditions are needed, they are not often due to the weather. Do not panic!

Diseases of coniferous plants

Spring "burn"

The so-called spring sunburn is associated with the drying of needles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVmz2DphhUU

The growth of the top is noticeably less than that of other cedar

Well, of course, not everyone is the same, they are different, just like you and me. Moreover, in the first year, they don’t expect any special growths at all, the main thing is that the plant in the new place forms a full-fledged root system in the first 2 years. Then you will look at the great gains. Although you have good gains on 2 and 3 especially, it's a shame to complain.

The needles withered (curved)



It has not faded with you, but is simply very long compared to the gains of the previous year. Judging by the photo, the needles are excellent - thick, long! They even have, as it were, after a perm, which means there is enough food and water too. Do not forget that this is not a Christmas tree, the needles should not stick out. The needles are soft on their own.

The needles turned yellow and fell off during the summer from the trunk and at the base of the branches

In autumn, all conifer needles fall off every 3 years. As with hardwoods, litter is falling and the needles turn yellow. Needles cannot be eternal. If in the summer part of the needles fell off, then somewhere there was not enough watering.
In Korean 4, even a short drying of the coma (even when it was already sitting in the ground), for example, in the dry part of the summer, could lead to the fall of part of the needles, since the clods of the Koreans in this batch were not very large. We observe the fall of needles on those residues that remained on the site in containers for the winter. True, since we had constant watering, the needles did not fall off so much. In the spring at the end of May, give it top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer and then during the season with nitrogen 2 times in 3-4 weeks, pour / water from above on the soil and cover with mulch, DO NOT dig into the soil.

Pines do not lose their attractiveness throughout the year and, as a rule, live longer than most representatives of deciduous or conifers. But these beautiful evergreens can suffer from both diseases and pests, which significantly shortens their lifespan and has Negative influence for decorative qualities.

It should be noted that pine diseases are not always infectious. Trees often fall ill due to unfavorable conditions. external conditions, for example, such as waterlogging of the soil or its drying out. Conifers are also sensitive to a lack of iron or phosphorus in the soil. In this case, the needles turn yellow or acquire a red-violet hue. In addition, these evergreen trees do not respond well to air pollution from automobile and industrial gaseous emissions. Such factors lead to the death of needles and growth retardation. Very often diseases are a secondary factor. The causative agents of diseases are carried by insect pests.

The most common fungal diseases

Pines have a certain immunity to infectious diseases, although under certain conditions they suffer quite strongly from them. However, disease resistance increases as the plant matures. And, conversely, it decreases with aging of the tree or exposure to adverse factors. environment(eg construction site).

Common pine diseases are some types of soil-dwelling fungi Rhizoctonia And Python. Infection with them often leads the roots of young trees to decay and die off and, as a result, to the death of trees. Anamorphic mushrooms Fusarium oxysporum(belong to the category of soil pathogens), are the causative agents of tracheomycosis wilt. The roots affected by the fungus acquire a brown tint, the mycelium penetrates deep into vascular system plants and fills it with its biomass, which almost completely blocks the possibility of access nutrients and the tree is fading. Pine needles turn yellow, then turn red and fall off, and the plant itself gradually dries out. Like all pine diseases, spores Fusarium oxysporum persist in plant debris and plants and spread through infected soil, along with planting material, or after attack by insect pests. The lack of sunlight and standing water in low or poorly drained areas. Very often, the disease develops rapidly and is not amenable to any treatment. Treating trees in the early stages can stop the spread of the disease. In the photo on the right and left - a cedar pine (cedar) affected by an anamorphic fungus. The disease progresses rapidly. View of the tree two weeks after the onset of the disease.

Mushroom Lophodermium seditiosum is the causative agent of a disease such as real schütte, which is considered one of the main causes of falling needles. Like almost all diseases of pines, this shutte mainly affects young or weakened plants. The first signs of infection are a change in the color of the needles in spring and early summer - the needles turn brown and fall off, and in autumn yellow dots appear on the needles, which gradually grow and turn brown. The causative agent of this disease is well preserved under fallen needles and infects other plants.

Mushroom Lophodermium pinastri- the causative agent of the disease is an ordinary shutte. The symptoms of this disease are similar to those caused by the previous disease. In autumn or spring, the needles of young plants become red-brown, dark transverse lines appear on the needles, after which the plant gradually dies. Most often, weakened trees in nurseries and self-seeding pines suffer.

Diseases such as brown and snow shute are also common. The symptoms of these diseases are somewhat different from each other, but all of them, with untimely treatment, lead to the death of trees and the massive spread of infection.

Prevention and treatment of shutte

In order to prevent the spread of these diseases, it is necessary to carefully select planting material, and thin out rooted plants in a timely manner. A good effect is given by fungicidal spraying (treatment with sulfuric, copper-containing and other systemic fungicides). It is recommended to immediately cut off the dried branches and remove the fallen needles. A good result is given by the method of stem injections to pine trees.

rust diseases

Some pine diseases are heterogeneous, that is, passing from conifers to other plants. This category includes rust diseases, the main pathogens are fungi of the Uredinomycetes class, Basidiomycota department.

Pine spinner, cone rust. This disease is caused by rust fungus. Melampsora pinitorqua. The first symptoms of a fungal infection are the death of the top of the shoot and the S-shaped curvature of the trunk. The cones at the same time open wide and dry.

The causative agents of rust of pine needles are fungi of the genus Coleosporium. This is one of the most common diseases that spreads very quickly among young animals and in nurseries. Yellow vesicle-like pustules form on both sides of the needles, over time the disease develops, the needles fall off, and the tree loses its decorative effect.

Prevention and treatment of rust diseases

The main preventive measure against rust diseases is spatial isolation healthy trees from infected plants. Very often the reason is the preliminary damage to pines by pests, for example, a sawfly (pictured right). Prevents the spread of diseases by timely treatment from pests, cutting of affected pines, the use of immunostimulants and microfertilizers. If it is impossible to remove the affected pines, the treatment of rust diseases is carried out by spraying with systemic fungicides or stem injections under the tree bark.

I am often asked why the needles of pine and other coniferous plants turn yellow in the garden in early spring and mid-summer. There may be several reasons. Of course, it is worth considering each case individually. But there is also general recommendations, which will help in case of minor coniferous ailments. And if after trying these methods, the result did not appear, you will have to apply more complex treatment regimens and already, preferably, after consultation with a specialist.

Why do needles turn yellow in pine and coniferous plants?

Here are the most common causes of the disease:

  • In summer, this is most often a lack of moisture or diseases and pests.
  • And in the spring there may be costs of late planting, or sunburn.

Algorithm for the treatment of coniferous trees in case of yellowing of the needles

  1. Cut out any branches that are badly damaged with pruning shears, but make sure the branches are completely dry before doing so. Some coniferous plants, for example?? thuja, can start up new shoots on yellowed branches.
  2. Put on gloves and try to remove the yellowed needles from the middle of the tree.
  3. Treat on the crown (spraying through a sprayer) all the specimens that you think need help with the HB-101 preparation.
  4. Pour the root system of the tree with the same HB-101 preparation.
  5. After 7 days, shed the root system with Kornevin at the rate of 1 gram per 1 liter of water.
  6. If necessary, repeat the treatment of coniferous trees at intervals of 1-2 weeks until the plant is fully restored.

In some conifers, the color changes by winter (the needles turn brown, a golden hue appears), the needles partially fall off. It's normal seasonal phenomenon. needles different plants keep on a bush or tree from three to eight years. Then the old needles fall off with the onset of a cold snap. "Losses" are more noticeable in the depth of the crown, where there is less light. In pines, cypresses and thujas, fallen needles gradually accumulate. Therefore, the crown, especially the forks of branches, must be cleared of such clusters. The easiest way is to wash off the dead needles with a strong stream of water from a hose (on low trees you can remove it with your hand in a thick glove).

TIP: If there is no suspicion that the tree is sick or suffering from pests, it is better to leave the fallen needles under it. It accumulates, mulching the ground and rotting. At the same time, a suitable acid-base balance of the soil is maintained.

…or disease

Sometimes discoloration of the needles is a symptom of the disease. Problematic trees do not restore their typical color in the spring, in which case they need urgent help. What causes yellowing and falling of needles? one. fungal diseases. In this case, the crown of conifers is sprayed with Kartocide (according to the instructions) or 1% Bordeaux liquid (several times with an interval of two weeks until complete recovery). The preparations Fundazol, HOM, Oksi-hom, Ordan or Commander are also suitable (according to the instructions).

2. Aphid. Early spring spraying with Karbofos helps to destroy the pest. In the middle of summer - Aktellik or Rogor-S (according to instructions).

3. Wrong fit tree (excessive deepening). bad if ground water come close to the soil surface.

4. Plant starvation. Need top dressing balanced complex fertilizer for conifers with magnesium.

5. Long-term drought or waterlogging of the soil. In case of waterlogging, water has to be diverted, and sometimes a young plant needs to be transplanted.

6. Sunlight Seedlings of many species of conifers should be planted in partial shade or shade young trees from the burning rays of the sun. Do not like conifers and frequent smoke. Therefore, there is no need to burn garden waste next to them. After smoke, it is advisable to pour coniferous crown with water from a hose.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"

  • : Growing pea cypress - a variety ...
  • : Fighting sunburn in...
  • : Coniferous: burns, decay, frost withering...
  • Ludmila Shcherbakova,
    Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Associate Professor of the St. Petersburg Forest Engineering Academy, specialist in the conservation and protection of garden and park plants

    FIR DAMAGE, CAUSES, TREATMENT

    Healthy, properly planted spruces are rarely attacked by pests. The soil should be light, moist and slightly acidic. Fertilization helps to improve the growth of spruces, the development of their root system, and also protects them from diseases and pests.

    SUCKING PESTS

    Several dozen species of sucking pests are known on spruce trees, including coccids (scale insects, false scale insects, mealybugs), aphids, hermes and spider mites. They suck juices from needles, shoots, branches, trunks and even roots. They have small size and hardly noticeable. They can be detected by sticky secretions that cover the surface of needles and branches, or by the presence of galls.

    • Yellowish spots appear on the old needles, later the needles fall off. Aphid Spruce Sitka - a pest of prickly spruce, Serbian spruce and Sitka spruce. This green sucking insect is only 1-2 mm in size. Aphids can be detected by holding up a piece of white paper and tapping on a branch.

    Control measures. Aphids are bred and grazing by ants. The way out is to prevent the spread of ants. If there are few aphids, regularly wash the infected areas with clean cold or soapy water(but before that you need to cover the soil so that the soap mass in in large numbers didn't get rooted). The procedure must be repeated more than once with an interval of 6-10 days. Cutting off the ends of shoots with aphid colonies significantly reduces the harmfulness of insects. This event can be combined with planned pruning.

    • Curvature and yellowing of the needles, sticky fluffy snow-white formations are visible on the underside of the needles. Galls form at the ends of young shoots. This is HERMES GREEN SPRUCE-LARCH or SPRUCE-FIR. These "bumps" gradually grow, increase, acquire a crimson color. There are up to 120 pest larvae inside such a shortened mutilated spruce shoot. At the buds on the bark, you can see adult females, and on the needles - brown or yellowish-green larvae. Hermes larvae cause bending, drying and further shedding of the needles. Branches on which galls appear next year dry up. In the middle of summer, the galls crack and young aphids fly to spruce, fir or larch trees growing nearby. Hermes harms mainly spruce and prickly spruce.

    Control measures. It is very simple to eradicate Hermes - remove all shoots with galls in time, and no chemistry is required. Do not plant larch and fir next to spruce. When spreading - spraying with insecticides. Aerosols of insecticides do not penetrate through the fluff, therefore it is best to act on Hermes through the plant sap with systemic insecticides.

    • The needles are braided with cobwebs and due to this they are kept on the tree. With gusts of wind, the needles fly around, and the crown is exposed. Tiny caterpillars mine the needles, making round holes at the base of the needles. This is how the SPRUCE NEEDLE ROLLER works, it harms many types of spruces. Diagnosis can be difficult if you do not touch the needles with your hands.

    Control measures. Affected shoots must be repeatedly treated with a solution liquid soap or delete. Dry needles can be combed with a small fan rake, laying polyethylene or other material under the tree, and burned the collected needles. With a large spread of the pest, apply systemic pesticides that penetrate the plant tissue and are transported through the vessels throughout the plant.

    • The needles are entangled in a thin rare cobweb, covered with yellowish spots, later turning brown and crumbling. Spruce spider mite and its larvae damage young plants: prickly spruce, Canadian spruce, common spruce, western thuja, juniper, biota. Few damage the Engelman spruce, Serbian. During the summer, the female gives 3-4 generations. The greatest harm the tick inflicts in hot years on trees growing on dry soils. Behind growing season ticks form four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases towards the end of summer.

    Control measures. good care for young seedlings. Spray plants prophylactically cold water to increase humidity. When symptoms appear, spray with colloidal sulfur, infusions of dandelion or garlic. If the affected area occupies a significant area, then apply acaricides.

    • Browning and falling of needles, drying of branches, shiny traces. SPRUCE FALSE SHIELD is not only a pest of common spruce, but also other types of spruce. Mass colonies of insects on young plantings, sucking out the juices, not only cause a general slowdown in growth, but often completely destroy the plant. the branches of adult trees, on which colonies of false scale insects appear, dry out and deform greatly, their total assimilating surface decreases, and this retards growth and reduces the winter hardiness of trees. Females and larvae feed on sap on needles and shoots, excreting honeydew.

    Control measures. Trees growing in shady places and on dry soils are especially affected by spruce scale insects. Compliance with the correct agricultural technology prevents the attack of pests. Preventive spraying of young trees with insecticides helps. With a large number, spraying is repeated in August - September.

    • The needles of young seedlings and seedlings of spruce begin to dry and crumble. Two types of ROOT APHIDS suck out juices from the thin roots of young Christmas trees: spruce honeysuckle, for which spruce is an intermediate plant, and spruce root. Root aphids harm mainly seedlings and seedlings.

    Control measures. Root aphids can only be killed with systemic insecticides.

    • The needles turn yellow and curl. Small insects appeared on the twigs with white fibrous shields on their backs, which protect them from predators. These are relatives of aphids - coniferous worms. In dry years, they multiply in such numbers that the branches appear to be covered with frost. You can also find these pests on firs and pines. Like all other sucking insects, mealybugs are the main carriers of viruses.

    Control measures. Spraying with tobacco infusion three times at weekly intervals. In case of severe damage, one should resort to "systemic" insecticides, they penetrate into the juice of the treated plant and temporarily make it poisonous to pests.

    NEEDLE BURNING PESTS

    Insects that eat buds and needles are called needle-eating pests. They are quite numerous and are represented by species of butterflies, sawflies and beetles.

    • Young needles on the apical and lateral shoots acquire a red-brown color and do not fall off for a long time. It is first mined, and then the larvae of the common spruce sawfly are eaten whole. Its larvae are very difficult to see, they are well disguised as needles. Old spruce needles are gnawed by single and nested sawflies. Both of these sawflies equip their dwelling from cobwebs and excrement.

    Control measures.

    • The kidneys are eaten. If the kidney is damaged from the inside, then it is the SPRUCE BUDNEY SAW or the caterpillar of the SPRUCE MOTH. If the kidney is damaged on the outside, then it is a WELVIBLE. Damage to buds and shoots is especially dangerous for young trees.

    Control measures. Dig up trunk circles. Destroy nests and larvae when pest numbers are low. Spraying with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants. With a large number of treatment for larvae with insecticides.

    • In May-July, moths fly around the fir trees, followed by caterpillars appearing on the branches. It could be the SPOTTED MIGHT, a butterfly from the scoop family. Its caterpillars are brown-gray, covered with long hair. They appear in August-September and eat the needles. They look different, but also harm the DARK GRAY MOTHER and the CORN-WINGED CONIFEROUS MOTHER. They pupate in the ground under the spruce.

    Control measures. Food baits with fermentation additives. These baits are good because they last all summer. When digging or loosening, the destruction of brown pupae. Treatment of plantings with insecticidal and biological products during bud break.

    PESTS THAT DAMAGE CONES

    Spruce cones are a real delicacy for many pests. Cones damage leafworm caterpillars, moths, moths and larvae of grinders, gall midges and seed-eaters. Cones damaged by pests are easy to distinguish by curvature, discoloration, and dust spilling out of the cone.

    • In June-July, usually in the evenings occurs the summer of butterflies. This is a CONE FIRE, the caterpillars of which gnaw cones and eat away seeds. A brownish mass of excrement hangs on the surface of the cones, in some places there are streaks of resin. The cone moth populates the cones of common, eastern and Siberian spruce, Caucasian fir, Siberian larch, Korean cedar pine. This is one of the main pests of coniferous seeds.

    Control measures. Treatment with systemic insecticides during the hatching period of caterpillars.

    STEM PESTS

    Stem pests damage the bark and various layers of wood. Their larvae develop under the bark, penetrating into all layers of the tree (depending on the species of the pest). Penetrating under the bark, bark beetles secrete odorous substances - pheromones, and more and more beetles flock to their smell. For example, at the smell of a spruce bark beetle-typographer, beetles flock from a distance of up to 11 km! It is extremely rare to save a tree inhabited by bark beetles, and if beetles have inhabited it along the entire circumference of the trunk, then the only measure is the urgent destruction of the tree until the young generation of beetles comes out from under the bark.

    • Already in the middle of summer, the needles begin to fade, later turn yellow and fall off. Numerous small holes in the bark. Brown drilling flour is abundantly poured around the entire circumference of the trunk. The bark beetle often infects weakened spruce trees of various ages. A very dangerous pest. He destroys trees in the historical parks of Pavlovsk and Pushkin, at one time destroyed the spruce tent in Trigorskoye and several memorial Hannibal fir trees in Mikhailovskoye (Pushkinsky Gory Museum-Reserve). It is ubiquitous in our forests. Such trees must be removed before the younger generation of typographers complete their development under the bark and fly out into the wild.
    • Red needles on spruce and fir branches, large resin funnels in places where pests enter the trunk. GREAT SPRUCE BEETLE - the largest of our bark beetles, up to 9 mm long. Extremely dangerous pest, very aggressive. It attacks mainly old spruces, but does not neglect young ones either. May inhabit pine trees. IN last years it kills the blue spruces in Peterhof. At the slightest sign of weakening of the tree, you need to carefully examine the trunk, and if you see drilling flour, do not spare the tree, but remove it as soon as possible.
    • Beetles crawl along the trunk, they have an elongated body and mustaches characteristic of these insects, which can be thrown over their backs. The length of the whiskers in some species significantly exceeds the length of the beetle itself. BLACK SPRUCE BORNEBS burrow into the trunk of a tree and make numerous moves there. When laying eggs, barbels leave characteristic notches on the bark, as if they were pressing on the bark with a fingernail. Usually barbel comes to us from nurseries along with infected planting material.
    • In May-June, black beetles appear with a rusty-red border of the shield and yellow-brown elytra, along which there are two longitudinal stripes. This is a matt-chested SPRUCE WOOD CUTTER. It harms spruce, it also damages fir, pine and larch. The beetle settles on weakened or diseased trees. The larvae make wide passages in the wood.

    Control measures. At the initial stage, there is a chance to save the tree. Careful treatment with protective preparations, douching the holes formed can kill the first beetles, preventing them from multiplying and attracting the bulk of pests to the trees. During the departure of beetles (June - July), tree crowns are sprayed with contact insecticides. If you find drill flour, use a knife to remove the bark where it appears and scrape off the white larvae that eat the cambium. Bark beetle control with pheromone traps should not be carried out in the garden, as the traps will attract beetles from all surrounding forest plantations. Traps are hung in the nearest forest area, as is done in forests and parks, where a dozen can be sacrificed to save a thousand trees. The main thing is not to forget to check the traps and remove the pests that have fallen into them.

    FIR DISEASES

    Spruces, like all conifers, suffer more from non-communicable diseases caused by adverse conditions environment, and gardener errors in planting and care.

    • Landing with a strong DEEP. In nature, spruce roots come to the surface.
    • LACK OF WATER is a common cause of spruce death.
    • If European or Norway spruce has yellowed needles, in most cases the cause is a lack of nutrients.
    • STRONG FROST can damage young plantings.
    • A heavy mass of SNOW leads to breakage of branches.

    Spruces quite often suffer from fungal diseases. As a rule, they do not cause the death of a tree, but they can provoke premature shedding of needles, which is reflected in the appearance of trees. Fungal diseases are provoked by dense planting, lack of light and excess moisture in the air and soil.

    • The needles turn brown in May, but remain on the branches. In the lower part of the needles, spores of the fungus are formed. Infection of neighboring needles occurs, plants turn brown, shoots do not overwinter badly - SHUTE.
    • In autumn, brown spots appear on young needles, in early spring white mycelium develops on the needles. The needles darken and fall off - SNOW SHUTTE.
    • On young seedlings, the needles turn brown and fall off, traces of sporulation of the fungus are visible - FUZARIOSIS, a disease that affects the roots, the infection penetrates through the vessels into all tissues.
    • Dry top, thinning and drying out of a part of the crown, with severe damage - mushroom caps grow on the trunk - stem and root ROT. Root rots penetrate the wood of the trunk and cause the death of the tree.
    • The bark of the branches darkens, dries up, growths form on it. brick color or dark small pads, the bark dies, the tree dies. Necrosis of the cortex.
    • Ulcers form on the trunks: open, with resin, with protruding bodies of fungi or closed, in the form of numerous resin nodules - ULCER (wound) CANCER can be caused by fungi and bacteria.
    • On the inside scales of the bark appear rounded dusty dark brown pustules. The cones are wide open, hanging for several years, the seeds are not viable. This is RUST CONES. Sometimes shoots are bent, the disease in this form is called SPRUCE SPIRIT. Infection comes from bird cherry.

    Control measures. Healthy planting material, timely removal of dried branches, coating of saw cuts garden pitch, paint. Increasing resistance through the use of microfertilizers and immunostimulants. Do not plant next to bird cherry. Treatment of the roots of seedlings before planting with fungicides. When signs of illness appear, water with fungicides under the root. Preventive spraying in early spring copper-containing preparations. Destruction of the affected needles, branches.

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    These seemingly unpretentious trees also get sick. Needles turn yellow - the most common ailment to which these forest beauties are subject. explanations this fact several, and it is desirable to eliminate all negative causes.

    Causes of yellowing needles in coniferous trees

    In coniferous trees, yellowing of the needles or even their complete drying can sometimes be noted. Why do the needles of the Christmas tree turn yellow, and how to help the tree?

    Firstly, one of the reasons for the yellowing of needles in conifers may be cold. In some coniferous plants, branches may turn yellow in winter. For example, such plants include microbiota, common juniper varieties "Plumosa" and "Depressa Aurea", pseudosugu green and other plants. But this is not critical, since with the onset of spring the branches will again acquire their green color.

    Secondly, the needles can turn yellow even with mild frosts. And all because not all conifers are frost-resistant. For example, these include the following coniferous plants - blunt cypress, virginian juniper, green and eastern pseudosugu, Lawson's cypress, giant thuja. If you want to grow these plants in the middle lane, you should definitely take into account the peculiarities of caring for them in winter time and know if they need to be sheltered for this period.

    Also, spruce needles often turn yellow under the influence of heat. With a prolonged lack of moisture, the following coniferous plants can dry out - Chinese metasequoia, Japanese cypress, pea-bearing, marsh and others. All these plants are afraid of too warm spring, which comes immediately after frost. In autumn, they need to be watered abundantly so that they can make a supply of moisture for a long period.

    With a lack of minerals, the needles can also acquire yellow tint. This is especially true for the lack of magnesium when feeding coniferous plants. Therefore, such a selection is necessary. mineral fertilizers, which contained all the necessary minerals and could eliminate the yellowing of the needles.

    The needles of the Christmas tree turn yellow under the influence of pests and diseases. Therefore, yellowing needles must be carefully examined and paid attention to whether they have plaque, stains or any pests. If necessary, plants should be treated with appropriate preparations.

    disastrous for coniferous crops is and dog urine. The marks left by these animals lead to the drying of the branches that need to be cut, and the plant itself, if possible, should be protected from such encroachments.

    If you bought a coniferous plant at an exhibition or in a store and noticed that its needles are turning yellow, or if you have a pine or thuja growing in open ground for a long time, but at one fine moment you notice that on one particular side or in general the entire crown begins turn yellow, then we bring to your attention 5 main reasons, and probably the only ones, from which the needles of coniferous plants turn yellow. The main thing is to react in time to save the plant. Some reasons are not fatal, while other reasons can severely damage the conifer and you will have to “puff” over it.

    The first reason is why the needles turn yellow. The most common reason is lack of watering. In the store there are conifers in pots, containers, their needles are green ... And inexperienced sellers can rarely water them, the needles do not fade, and the green one is worth it! Remember, your Christmas tree or pine stands for so long, that is, by its appearance it is not entirely possible to understand whether it has enough water or not.

    Here they dried out an earthen ball in the store, then they remembered, they watered it. But the small roots, which absorb moisture the most and most quickly, have died off. And in order for them to branch, you need to help the plant with fertilizer or a growth accelerator, periodically water it on time.

    Therefore, when you buy a conifer in a store or nursery, then rather be guided by the conscience of the seller than by the appearance of the soil. Even if it is watered, this may mean that it was only watered today, and the coniferous plant has been dry for a week. And when you bring the conifer home, then in a week its needles may turn yellow.

    It is best, of course, to know in advance the quality of the company or seller, it may be necessary, if the store or nursery is not far from you, to periodically visit and observe the plants, how they are cared for. Coniferous in pots photo:


    If you bought such an “underwatered” plant, and the needles began to turn yellow at your place, then if you want to plant the plant in open ground, we advise that such sufferers should not be planted in dry sandy soil, especially calcareous, with a shallow fertile layer. They will be sick for a long time. In this case, you need to specially prepare a pit for planting so that it has enough fertile soil, and you need to plant it together with a lump, so as not to tear off the already weak roots.

    The second reason is why the needles turn yellow. This is an inappropriate late landing. As they say, "the greed of the fryer killed." If you planted a conifer late in the fall and it did not have time to take root, take root, that is, winter came soon, frosts, the soil froze, then the needles of the coniferous plant will turn yellow, since the roots do not absorb moisture, they sleep, and the needles continue to evaporate moisture. Yes, coniferous plants in winter, especially on clear days, evaporate moisture from the needles. As a result, the plant becomes dehydrated, the needles turn yellow and fall.

    To save a plant:

    1. - cover it from frost and sun;

    2. -clear snow around the conifer so that it forms a side around the trunk and at least every other day water the conifer with warm enough water (60 degrees). Water, when it soaks into the cold earth, will take desired temperature. And a side of snow will also create protective zone so that drafts do not freeze the soil more. Planting conifers in late autumn photo:


    The third reason is why the needles turn yellow. Sun burns. Most often in winter and early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, the sun's rays, reflected from the white snow, create even more illumination near the plant, almost 2 times more intense. Therefore, the needles turn yellow and fall off. After all, there is little moisture in the soil, and the needles of water reserves begin to evaporate more and more from sunlight. Of course, conifers do not need to be watered all winter.

    Of course, it is desirable to water at least once a month. But coniferous plants will save shelter from the sun. You can cover with thick paper, burlap, special covering material, which can now be bought at any garden store, or with the same coniferous spruce branches. Sunburn coniferous photo:


    The fourth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Fungi, that is, fungal diseases, can cause yellowing and falling of needles. These are fungi that most often cause coniferous diseases such as various types of schütte and various rusts. Fungi can appear from improper care of plants, frequent landings, in which there are no ventilated places, a constant shadow. For conifers, carry out preventive treatment, as fungi can be everywhere in the soil and air. For prevention, spraying with foundationazole (10 g per 10 liters of water with an interval of 10 days) is suitable.

    If the needles have already turned yellow and you have not identified other reasons, so it is most likely that this is the fault of fungi, then treat the conifers with biological products - Fitosporin - M, Alirin, Gamair. These biologics fight fungi, but in order to strengthen the immunity of the plant itself, treat the conifers with Zircon and Epin - extra. Needle rust:


    The fifth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Coniferous plants have enough pests that like to spoil the appearance of plants, or even completely lead to death. For example, thuja aphid or Sitka spruce aphid. Most often, aphids attack thuja, Sitka, prickly and Serbian pines.

    Substitute a white sheet under the branch, and tap the branch on top with your hand. If dark little “goats” fell on the leaf, then your conifers “eat” aphids. You can get rid of aphids on conifers if you often spray the plants with potash soap, a strong infusion of garlic, wormwood or other herbs.

    It's not chemistry though...

    Aphids on needles photo:


    Another pest of coniferous plants can be a night butterfly - a nun, or rather voracious caterpillars of a dirty white, gray color. If you have a few conifers and you notice the caterpillars well, then most of them can be collected and destroyed, but keep in mind that these caterpillars hit the needles so that the branches remain bare. Therefore, it is better to additionally spray the conifers with Bitoxibacillin or other Decis, Karate preparations.

    Also, your coniferous plants can spoil spider mite and spruce leaflet. When the plants are struck by a leafworm, the needles turn yellow, a fairly noticeable cobweb appears and small caterpillars eating the needles are visible inside. If you start to notice the cobweb on the needles, then we first undertake mechanical processing.

    We put on gloves, gently cover the branch with our hands and, as it were, pull the web from them in the direction of the growth of the needles. You can twist, shake the branches. Then we process the plants with colloidal sulfur, a strong infusion of dandelion or garlic.

    If the branches are severely affected, then we treat them with a solution of liquid soap so that the insects stick and suffocate, and then we remove these branches. If you have a lot of coniferous plants and all together began to be eaten by pests, then we advise you not to waste time, but to use chemical insecticidal preparations, in which case you will definitely save your plants.

    Gardeners often complain that conifers bought in a store or at an exhibition begin to turn yellow. Naturally, the question arises, what is the reason for this and how to help the plant?

    Yellowing needles can be caused different reasons. AND first of them - the lack of watering. Seedlings in containers are overdried when stored in a store. Before selling, they are watered abundantly, but the small suction roots of the plant have already died, so this does not save the situation. Such seedlings suffer when planted in dry sandy soil (especially calcareous) with a shallow fertile layer. At first, they require regular and plentiful watering.

    The second reason- late boarding. late autumn plants do not have time to take root, and the needles continue to evaporate moisture even in winter. Therefore, the plant is dehydrated, the needles turn yellow and dry.

    Third reason- sunburn in winter and early spring. Why don't plants burn in summer? The fact is that in winter, bright sunlight is reflected from the snow, which makes the illumination near the plant almost double. This is what causes burns. Occasionally, they arise from south side. You can save coniferous plants by tying them with burlap or thick paper.

    Fourth reason- fungal diseases. Biopreparations will help against them ( Alirin , Gamair , Fitosporin-M), and in their absence - double treatment with foundationazole (10 g per 10 liters of water) with an interval of 10 days. To restore the immunity of plants, spraying is used until recovery with drugs Epin-extra or "Zircon" .

    Fifth reason- insect pests. For example, thuja aphid or Sitka spruce aphid. This dangerous pests. They suffer from different kinds arborvitae, prickly spruce, Serbian spruce, Sitka spruce. Aphids can be detected by holding up a piece of white paper and tapping on a branch. When it appears, repeated spraying of trees with potash soap, infusions of garlic, wormwood and other herbs is recommended.

    Dirty-white to blackish caterpillars of the nocturnal nun butterfly up to 5 cm long eat the needles of the spruce completely. At the very first appearance, spraying with bitoxibacillin or drugs decis, karate.

    Spider mite and spruce leafworm. It is necessary to spray with colloidal sulfur, infusions of dandelion or garlic. When a leafworm is damaged, the needles not only turn yellow, but are also braided with cobwebs, caterpillars (larvae) eating leaves are visible inside. Affected shoots must be repeatedly treated with a solution of liquid soap or removed. In case of severe insect infestation, chemical insecticidal preparations are used.

    Do not despair if the needles have flown around a lot and most of the branches look bare. With proper care and regular watering, the plant can be saved. In advanced cases, the needles grow back the next year.


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