Peperomia in indoor floriculture: features of planting and caring for a tropical beauty. Uplifting peperomia: how to care for a happy bean peperomia flower

Peperomia is still little known to Russian home flower growers. But the plant is steadily gaining popularity. Leaves of various shapes and shades will not go unnoticed even in the largest collection of indoor plants. Additional advantages of the flower are compactness (even miniature size) and undemanding care. And creating comfortable conditions for peperomia is very simple.

Climbing pepper relative with succulent properties

Peperomia is a genus in the Pepper family (Piperaceae). These are mainly perennial shrubs, but there are also herbaceous plants.. Both of them have the features of succulents. The genus boasts a very extensive representation. According to various sources, in nature there are from 800 to 1000 types of peperomia. So far, about 50 have successfully adapted to the conditions of modern apartments.

The name of the plant is due to its appearance. Translated from the Greek "peperi" means "pepper", omos - "similar, similar". If you cut a leaf, a characteristic aroma will spread throughout the room.

Adherents of the Feng Shui teaching adopted the American nickname of peperomia (“friendly family”) and recommend that newlyweds or families whose members often disagree and cannot come to an agreement be sure to acquire at least one plant. The flower helps them "get used" to each other and smooth out conflicts, absorbing negativity and spreading the "right" vibes that cause a good mood.

Peperomia are found in almost any tropical forest. Especially a lot of them are found in South and Central America, Southeast Asia, and India. Under the canopy of the jungle, peperomia can exist both as an ordinary plant, receiving nutrition from the soil, and as an epiphyte, rooting on tree trunks.

The ability of peperomia to store moisture and nutrients (a quality inherent in all succulents) is evidenced by juicy, fleshy stems and thick, dense leaves. In some varieties, the distance between the leaves is minimal - the stems are literally studded with them, the plant itself resembles a rosette.

The shape of the leaves, depending on the species, differs significantly (they are almost round, ovate, heart-shaped, lanceolate, but always whole and with a short petiole). Norm - soft short edge on both or on one side, "wrinkling". But most peperomia have smooth, shiny leaves. Even a plain sheet plate looks very elegant, not to mention varieties with different patterns in the form of spots, stripes, strokes.

The palette is very rich - in addition to the traditional green color, the leaves can be brownish, golden, silvery, olive, dark emerald.

Peperomia often blooms, even at home, but this phenomenon often causes anxiety among flower growers, especially beginners. Her flowers are completely different from what most people associate with flowers. They are very small, collected in thin whitish curving cobs, similar to mouse tails, the petal is absent. On a healthy adult plant, 12-15 inflorescences are formed at the same time. If you don’t know exactly what it is, it is quite possible to suspect some exotic disease picked up by a flower in its historical homeland.

After 1.5–2 months, the ear is covered with tiny dry balls. Ripe fruits are separated from it with a light touch.

Under optimal conditions, flowering can generally last almost the entire year. Peperomia does not need a dormant period.

The plant is compact, even miniature. The highest peperomia do not grow more than 60 cm. The average is 35–40 cm.

The flower looks great in aquariums and bottle gardens.

Peperomia cannot boast of growth rate (about 15 cm annually). At first it is an upright bush. As the stems lengthen, they begin to droop. If you do not prune, the old shoots located below will hang freely from the edges of the pot, and the young ones will stick up and to the sides from the middle of the container.

Peperomia is not only beautiful, but also useful. It has been scientifically proven that it releases phytoncides that destroy pathogenic bacteria (streptococci, staphylococci, sarcins). Their content in the air is reduced by 45–70%. Several pots of plants in the room are an excellent prevention of colds. You can put them in the nursery - peperomia is not poisonous. There is still some evidence to suggest that it has a positive effect on the digestive system and gallbladder.

Varieties popular with amateur flower growers: clouse-leaved, magnolia-leaved, obtuse and others

Almost all peperomia found in indoor floriculture are of natural origin. Breeders have not yet taken this plant seriously. Most Popular:

• Velvety (velutina). From below, the leaf plate is beet-colored and smooth, from above it is velvety (with the exception of veins) and bright green. The veins are highlighted in salad-silver or greenish.
• Kluzielistnaya (dusiaefolia). One of the largest representatives of the genus - about 50 cm in height. Leaves 12-15 cm long, hard to the touch, almost "wooden", green with a reddish tint and purple border. There is a selection variety Variegata - olive, cream or reddish-yellow streaks and a dark purple border.
• Silver (argyreia), or Sanders (sandersii). Low (up to 30 cm), intensively branching bush. The leaves are arranged very often, as if in rosettes. Petioles are long - about 10 cm and are attached not to the edge of the leaf plate, but almost to its center. In the light, a slight "pearl" sheen is noticeable.
• Wrinkled or wrinkled (Peperomia caperata). The maximum height is 10–12 m. The length of the leaf is no more than 3 cm. Flowering has some decorative value - numerous snow-white spikelets look spectacular against the background of dark greenery.
• Pereskilistnaya (pereskiaefolia). Leaves about 5 cm long, elliptical, pointed, very dense.
• Magnolia (magnoliaefolia). Bush about 40 cm high, intensively branching. The shape of the leaves is very diverse - from almost regular circles to strongly elongated ellipses or spades pointed at the ends. The Variegata breeding hybrid is distinguished by the presence of a pattern in the form of irregularly shaped spots of yellowish, silvery white and cream color.
• Dull (obtusifolia). It is very similar to magnolia-leaved peperomia, only botanists can distinguish them, distinguishing a bush that is somewhat more pressed to the ground, less foliage and a more rounded leaf shape. Breeding hybrids - Alba (milky green or cream leaves), Albo-variegata (light olive center of the leaf plate and an irregularly shaped cream spot around it).
• Whorled (verticillata). Very short and fleshy stems, leaf petioles are almost absent. The length of the olive leaf is no more than 2 cm. The appearance of the plant can vary significantly depending on environmental conditions. The higher the humidity, the greater the intervals between the leaves, they themselves are larger and less fringed.
• Round-leaved (rotundifolia). Very thin (no more than 1–2 mm) brick-colored stems immediately droop, so the plant spreads along the ground. The leaves are small (0.5–0.7 cm in diameter), almost round. The edging on young leaves disappears with age.
• Multi-carpet (polybotrya). Herbaceous plant, almost no branches. The leaves are large (8–10 cm), egg-shaped.
• Delicate or pleasant (blanda). Upright stems about 35 cm high practically do not branch. Leaves with a pattern of purple spots, drops and borders on a green background, disappearing with age.
• Spotted, or multi-spotted (maculosa). The leaves are very dark above, below, on the contrary, are pale salad. The type of inflorescences is atypical - they reach a height of 45–50 cm, painted in a dark brown color.
• Gray-silver (griseo-argentea). The leaves form rosettes lying on the ground, silver gray or pale green with a metallic sheen. Selective hybrid - Blackie or Nigra with almost black leaves.
• Peperomia Fraser, or Fraser (fraseri), or resedotsvetnaya (resedaeflora). From below, the leaves “twist” into rosettes, from above, the intervals between them increase. The inflorescences are quite beautiful - the flowers are collected in snow-white panicles, consisting of individual thin spikelets (a bit like mignonette). There is even a scent.
• Reddish (rubella). The stems are thin, drooping, with a reddish tint, the leaves have the same shade from below. They are very small.
• Creeping (serpens). Well suited for cultivation in the ampelous way.
• Gray-haired (incana). Quite a tall semi-shrub, densely pubescent with white "pile".
• Peperomia Rosso (rosso). The leaves are very elongated in length and fit tightly to each other, forming something that looks like flowers or stars. The species does not flower at all.
• Peperomiya Happy Bean (happy bean). The leaves are similar in shape to bean pods - this is the reason for the name. They are quite thin and do not unfold completely. Bush about 15-20 cm high.
• Naked, or head-headed (glabella). The stems are very thin, with a pinkish tint. Leaves no more than 5 cm long, almost round.
• Marble (marmorata). The pattern imitates veins on marble. The largest leaves are located along the edges and below on longer petioles. In the center of the bush, they are significantly smaller.
• Golden leaf (aurea). From above, the sheet plate resembles a mosaic, laid out from dark green, yellowish and golden pieces of glass.
• Peperomia Foster (fosteriana). The pattern repeats the light green color of the veins.
• Peperomia Caperata Lillian (caperata Lillian). Snow-white inflorescences look like a bell of a gramophone or a lily.

Photo gallery: Caperata Lilian peperomia, shriveled, round-leaved and other home species with different leaf shapes and colors

Caperata Lilian flowers look like miniature lilies Peperomia Foster Peperomia golden-leaved young leaves are most beautiful Peperomia marble quite successfully imitates the characteristic pattern Peperomia leaves are like coins Peperomia Happy Bean does not unfold even fully formed leaves Peperomia Rosso seems to have no stems at all Gray-haired peperomia cannot be sprayed - this negatively affects the decorativeness of the leaves Peperomia creeping in nature is a climbing vine Peperomia reddish has very small leaves. Pepperonia Fraser, unlike other species, blooms quite nicely The leaves of gray-silver peperomia seem to have been coated with a metallized coating In peperomia spotted, the leaf plate has a spectacular contrast Peperomia tender - a very ornamental plant In peperomia, a multi-carpet stalk is attached to a leaf in a very unusual way. Peperomia rotundifolia has very thin stems. Peperomia whorled changes appearance, adapting to environmental conditions Only a botanist can distinguish peperomia tupolist from magnolia leaf The dark scarlet stems of magnolia peperomia contrast beautifully with the bright green of the leaves. Peperomia peracidus is well suited for growing in the ampelous way. Wrinkled pereromia - one of the most popular types in home floriculture In the sun, silvery peperomia slightly shimmers with mother-of-pearl Peperomia kluzielistnaya - a creation of nature, although it's hard to believe Peperomia velvety has very showy dark leaves. Peperomia chisel is distinguished by unusually "folded" leaves

Sometimes in flower shops you can see something called "peperomia mix". This is not some special variety, but several varieties of the plant, most often from the smallest, planted together in one pot.

How to create suitable conditions for a plant at home

The range of peperomia is hot and humid forests. At the same time, which is rather atypical for tropical plants, it is practically indifferent to humidity and will not require the grower to turn the apartment into a sauna. The flower does not have a pronounced dormant period, so the conditions remain constant throughout the year.

Table: desired peperomia microclimate

Factor	Recommendations
Location	Windows facing east or west. If the flower is on a south window, from about 11:00 to 14:00 it needs protection from direct sun. It is enough to cover it with a thin cloth or paper. On the street, even on a closed balcony or veranda, it is not recommended to take out peperomia.
Lighting	Bright light is desirable, especially for varieties with variegated and brightly colored leaves, but direct sunlight causes burns on them. The darker the leaves, the more shading the flower can tolerate. In winter, to extend daylight hours to the desired 8-10 hours, use fluorescent lamps. Peperomia can exist in completely artificial light, but then the "light day" increases to a minimum of 16 hours. Plants purchased in the store are gradually adapted to new conditions.
Temperature	The optimum temperature is 22–24 ºС. In late autumn and winter, it can be lowered by a couple of degrees. Below 15 ºС - and the flower is likely to die. Not only air temperature is important, but also soil. It is maintained at a level of 17–20 ºС. It is desirable to avoid sudden changes, as well as cold drafts.
Humidity	It is not a critical indicator. Peperomia normally exists at 30–40%, but develops best at 55–70%. The easiest way to increase the humidity of the air is to spray the flower (if the leaves are not covered with "lint"). You can also place nearby a container with water, wet moss, coconut fiber, pebbles, or a few pots with other plants. The plant feels good in the kitchen - there it is constantly warm from cooking and steam is released. It is a very bad idea to pour the water into the pan - peperomia roots rot easily.

Landing and transplant

Without extreme necessity, it is better not to disturb peperomia. Therefore, only plants younger than 3 years old are transplanted annually. Adult flowers are transferred to a new pot every 2-3 years, in early spring. The smaller the leaves, the more often the plants are transplanted.

The time for transplantation has clearly come up if the peperomia, without any additional alarming symptoms, almost stops growing, the roots stick out of the drainage hole. The substrate in the pot is already excessively compacted, and the flower does not like it.

The container is selected low, but wide, each time increasing its diameter by about 1.5 times. Too large a pot is undesirable - peperomia does not differ in growth rate anyway, and in this case all the forces will go to the "mastering" of the new space by the root system.

The substrate is prepared so that neither air nor moisture is retained in it:

• Universal soil for succulents, leaf humus, peat chips and coarse river sand (5:2:2:2).
• Soil for palms or ficuses and perlite or vermiculite (8:1).
• Leafy garden soil, humus, chopped coconut fiber or moss, small (1–3 mm in diameter) expanded clay (approximately equally divided).

However, soil problems can be avoided by growing peperomia hydroponically.

Plants look very impressive in compositions that recreate their natural habitat, for example, on snags or in moss.

The transplant procedure is simple:

1. Fill a third of the volume of the new pot with drainage. It is advisable to add at least a few pieces of charcoal.
2. Pour a layer of substrate 1.5–2 cm thick on top. Lightly moisten and let the water soak in.
3. Remove the plant from the container and put it together with an earthy clod in a new pot.
4. Pour the soil between the flower and the walls of the pot in small portions, gently tamp. The ground should be 1–1.5 cm below the edge.
5. Water the peperomia moderately again, put in a warm place, provide partial shade.
6. After 12-15 days, you can return the pot to the "place of permanent registration."

Video: how to transplant peperomia

How to properly care

Peperomia is quite unpretentious. But the plant gratefully responds to care, delighting the grower with lush green or variegated caps of leaves.

Watering

The only thing that can cause difficulties for beginner growers is watering. With excessive moisture, the roots of peperomia quickly rot. Therefore, it is important to find a "golden mean" and constantly adjust the intervals between procedures, based on the air temperature in the apartment and on the street.

Water is poured into the pot until bubbles appear on the surface. Then they wait 25–30 minutes and drain the excess from the pan. Between two waterings, the soil should dry out, but not to the point where it begins to move away from the edges of the pot.

If in doubt, remember that the lack of moisture peperomia, thanks to "internal reserves", transfers much more easily than its excess. But it’s not worth it to “test” the flower regularly either - the leaves will begin to dry and fall off.

For irrigation, only water is used that has been settled for at least a day and heated to a temperature 2–3 ºС higher than it is now in the room. If there is no soft melt or rain water, add a few granules of citric acid to regular tap water. It neutralizes excess chlorine and fluorine.

top dressing

Fertilizers are applied only during the active growing season, from about mid-March to the end of October every 15–20 days. Any liquid mineral complex designed specifically for succulents or decorative leaf houseplants will do. The concentration recommended by the manufacturer is reduced by 1.5–2 times.

If in winter the condition of the flower does not suit you, you can fertilize, but not more than once a month.

Pruning for simple and ampel cultivation

To achieve greater "bushiness", pinch each shoot of peperomia, removing about a fifth of the length. If you carry out the procedure regularly, the bush will become almost spherical.

In peperomia grown in the ampelous way, on the contrary, long shoots along the edges of the pot are not touched, and in the center the vegetation is cut off, leaving about a third of the length.

Possible mistakes when growing

In general, peperomia stoically react to the "adversities" caused by the inexperience of the grower, but their decorative effect can be significantly affected. Therefore, it is important to know what you need to do to correct your own mistakes.

Table: brown tips, leaf spots and other consequences of improper care

External manifestations	Probable Cause
The leaves, starting from the lowest, dry and fall off.	The plant lacks moisture. Shorten the intervals between waterings.
First, the very tips, then the entire “border” of the leaf plate turn brown and dry out.	The flower stands in a draft and / or in the room there are frequent sudden changes in air temperature.
The leaves lose their tone and color, gray-brown spots blur on the stems.	Rot develops due to too much watering, especially if the room is cooler than the flower needs.
The leaves become wrinkled, wither, deformed.	Peperomia got a sunburn. Shade the pot or find another place for it.
Healthy-looking leaves fall sharply and en masse.	The room is too cold.

Diseases and insects dangerous for the plant

The main thing that the grower should be afraid of is root rot. But there are some insects that, if not dealt with, can destroy the flower.

Table: what diseases and pests does peperomia suffer from

Disease or pest	Symptoms	How to cope
At the base of the stems and petioles, rapidly expanding "wet" gray-brown spots appear, then spreading to the leaves. The roots soften, become slimy.	Any rot is very difficult to treat. You can save a flower only if you start taking action by detecting the disease at an early stage. The plant is carefully removed from the container and all the soil is washed off the roots. Those of them where even the slightest traces of blackness are present are cut off with a sharp knife, capturing another 3-5 cm, which seem healthy. Then the roots are soaked for 2-3 hours in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or a 2% solution of any fungicide (copper sulfate, HOM, Bordeaux liquid, Kuprozan). For prevention, the same liquid can be used to replace water for irrigation every 15–20 days. The roots are sprinkled with crushed chalk or activated charcoal, colloidal sulfur and the flower is planted again using a clean pot and sterile soil.
Mealybug	The sheet plate from below seems to be sprinkled with flour. At the same time, sticky translucent secretions appear.	Visible worms are washed off by treating the plant with a cotton pad moistened with soapy foam with the addition of alcohol or alcohol tincture of calendula. To enhance the effect, you can not wash it off, but leave it for a couple of days, placing the flower in a plastic bag and sealing it tightly. Folk remedy - chopped onion or garlic, citrus peel (the container is placed next to the pot, also hermetically sealed). Insecticides (Rogor, Phosphamide, Nurell-D, Aktara, Tanrek, Mospilan) are used at least three times with an interval of 8–12 days.
thrips	Thin short "strokes" of beige color appear on the leaves - areas of dead tissue. The leaf plate acquires a silver tint, becomes unpleasantly sticky, deformed.	For prevention, the flower is given a hot shower every 12–15 days, then sprayed with infusions of any strongly smelling greenery. From adults, sticky tape for catching flies or home-made traps made from pieces of bright cardboard smeared with long-drying glue will help. Insecticides are effective against larvae - Aktara, Karate, Marshal, Fitoverm, Mospilan, Inta-Vir, Spintor (2-3 treatments with different preparations with an interval of 10-12 days). Folk remedy - a mixture of garlic and turpentine or kerosene (use as described above).
Shchitovka	Stems and leaves from below are covered with almost flat rounded grayish-brown growths. The tissues around them turn yellow, dry and die.	Visible individuals are removed with a soap-alcohol solution. Then the flower is given a hot shower, the leaves are covered with a mixture of vegetable oil and water (1:20) and hermetically sealed in a bag. Effective insecticides - Aktara, Iskra-Bio, Fufanon, Confidor (spraying every 2 weeks). Folk remedies are ineffective due to the strong shell of the pest.
Nematodes	Irregularly shaped, rapidly growing areas of dead tissue appear on the leaves. They deform, wither and dry out. On the roots - dark spherical swellings.	Severely damaged plants cannot be saved. They are thrown away with the soil, the pot and pan are boiled. For prevention, irradiate the flower with a quartz lamp every week for 3–5 minutes, water it with Buck Ecogel every month. Of the insecticides, Phosphamide, Rogor, BI-58, Nemaphos, Bazamid help. Many of them are quite toxic, therefore, the processing is carried out in the fresh air, strictly following the instructions. Adults are guaranteed to be killed by a 30-minute hot (40ºC) bath. Folk remedy - Decaris (tablet per 1 liter of water, water the plant).
spider mite	The petioles of the leaves are “woven” to the stems with the thinnest, almost transparent threads, similar to cobwebs. Affected leaves dry out very quickly.	Good prevention is regular spraying and irradiation of leaves (especially from below) with a quartz lamp. To destroy visible individuals, a soap-alcohol solution is used, against larvae - acaricides (Vermitek, Apollo, Omite, Sunmite, Neoron, Aktofit).

Photo gallery: diseases and pests of peperomia

Mealybug is able to destroy the plant in a short time Root rot is a disease that can be cured only if it is noticed in time.

reproduction

Reproduction of peperomia is a simple procedure that even a novice florist can handle. Planting material is not a shortage.

Generative way - it's possible and easy

Peperomia seeds are easy to get. Even at home, the plant blooms willingly. Ripe seeds are placed in paper bags and stored in a dark, dry, cool place until March-April.

Seeding order:

1. Shallow flat containers are filled with a mixture of coarse river sand and universal soil for ornamental houseplants.
2. The soil is moderately watered.
3. Seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil and sprinkled on top with a layer of soil 1.5–2 mm thick.
4. Plantings are sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass, plastic wrap, creating a greenhouse.
5. Seeds are provided with bright light and a constant temperature of 24-27 ºС.Desirable bottom heating. Every day for 5–7 minutes, the greenhouse is ventilated, preventing condensation and the development of rot.
6. As the soil dries, spray it.
7. Seedlings with 1-2 adult leaves are planted in small individual containers in a mixture of peat chips, universal soil, fertile turf and sand (2: 2: 1: 1).
8. When 5-6 leaves appear (after about six months), the peperomia are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 7-8 cm, they are looked after like adult plants.

Rooting cuttings

The peperomia stalk is the top of the shoot or the middle part of the stem cleared of leaves. It is obligatory to have at least one (preferably 2-3) "nodes" - points of growth. Rooting occurs on average in 8 cases out of 10.

You can even use a leaf, but only taken from a plant no younger than 3 years old, completely healthy and with a petiole shortened to a minimum.

1. Cuttings are cut in late spring or early summer with a sharp, disinfected knife.
2. Planting material cut down is lowered into a container with a solution of any root formation stimulator or potassium permanganate for 2-3 hours.
3. The sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk or activated charcoal, the cuttings are dried for about a day.
4. Root peperomia in water, sand, vermiculite, peat chips, moss. The apical cuttings are stuck with the substrate cut down, the stem cuttings are placed horizontally.
5. Landings are covered with glass jars or cut plastic bottles, provide bottom heating and a temperature of 25–27 ºС.
6. The substrate is kept slightly moist at all times.
7. Under optimal conditions, roots will appear in 20-25 days. Wait another week, transplant the cuttings into normal soil and care as usual.

Division of the bush when transplanting into a new pot

The division of a large peperomia bush into several small ones occurs simultaneously with a spring transplant. The procedure does not change, only one step is added - the separation of the roots with a sharp clean knife. Sections for the prevention of rot are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

Decorative leafy houseplants, as well as coniferous plants in pots, make it easy to decorate any room and fill it with natural beauty. In addition to their attractive appearance, some types of deciduous and coniferous houseplants have the ability to purify and humidify the air, and have a beneficial effect on health and the psyche. But in order for the greenery to feel good and never cease to please the eye, you need to know the basic rules for caring for indoor plants.

Caring for indoor plants at home

When selecting coniferous and deciduous indoor plants for your home or office, you need to take into account the peculiarities of the content of each species. It is best to choose plants with similar preferences - in this case, you can place them next to each other and create a compact mini-garden. If the area of ​​​​the premises allows you to place flower pots anywhere in the house - the choice can be almost endless.

Humidity and watering

Most coniferous houseplants do not like excessive moisture, while deciduous houseplants often need abundant watering. When moistening the soil and air, seasonality should be taken into account - most plants need a sufficient amount of moisture during flowering and growth, and in winter the frequency and intensity of watering can be reduced.

Temperature

Each plant has its own temperature preferences. But there is one general rule for everyone - during the growing season, the temperature should be high, during flowering and reproduction - a little lower, during the dormant period (autumn-winter) - as low as possible.

Lighting

Most ornamental houseplants come from regions with a tropical or subtropical climate, which is why proper lighting plays a huge role. You can vary the level of illumination by placing the pots on different windows or at a short distance from them.

Peperomia is one of those plants that are ideal for breeding at home. Outwardly, they are very beautiful - small (only twenty to thirty centimeters) with dense, elastic leaves and interesting coloring. Despite the rather strong differences of all types, peperomia has one thing in common - the stems are rather short and the leaves on them are bent inward. The variety of forms, the unique distinctive features of different types of peperomia naturally cause close attention from professional flower growers.

The root system of these decorative leafy plants is tuberous or in the form of a long creeping rhizome. Depending on the species, the stem may be erect, short, fleshy, decumbent or drooping. The arrangement of leaves on the stalk of pepperoni can be either whorled or alternate. The fleshy leaves of succulent species can be very close to each other, forming a rosette. The leaves of different species differ markedly in the shape of the leaf blade (round, heart-shaped, obovate, lanceolate), in surface relief (smooth, wrinkled, velvety) and in color (brown, dark green, variegated, olive, with and without a pattern). In some types of indoor peperomia, flowering periods continue throughout the year. Inflorescences develop on long peduncles, sometimes they are combined into panicles, but most often the flowers are collected in the form of an ear or spikelet. The peperomia flower is quite tiny, nondescript and has no decorative value. The flowers may be greenish, but more often - cream or white. Motherland - Tropics of South America.

Characteristics

Flower color does not bloom Flowering period does not bloom Max Height 20 cm

Requirements for the premises

Lighting bright Humidity medium Temperature in the spring-summer period, the optimal + 20 + 22C. In autumn-winter within + 18 + 22C, not lower than + 16C.

Content Features

diffused light, no direct sunlight. Plants are resistant to dry air, but develop better in conditions of high humidity. Spraying the foliage with warm, soft water.

Watering

in spring and summer, plentiful, soft tepid water (2-3C warmer than the air in the room). In the autumn-winter period, watering is moderate.

Fertilizer

from spring to autumn 2 times a month, in winter they are fertilized monthly with complex flower fertilizer.

Transfer

young plants annually in the spring, older than 3 years - once every 2 years. The substrate is loose, well permeable, for example, a mixture of leafy soil, humus, peat and sand

reproduction

seeds, stem and leaf cuttings, as well as division.

Peperomia is known for its diversity, varieties with interesting names show very strong differences in the structure and color of foliage: from thin small to fleshy and large.

In species of peperomia, the shades of the leaves vary from light green and golden to dark, sometimes even brown. There are variegated leaves with specks, veins and stains. The variability of leaf shapes is amazing: coin-shaped, oval, elongated, heart-shaped, etc.

Ampelnaya (Ampella)

• A feature of the species are curly long stems that hang beautifully from the sides of hanging pots and give the interior an exotic character.
• It is divided into many subspecies, for example, creeping, climbing, whorled and others.

Whorled (Verticillata)

• The leaves are fleshy, gray-green in color, arranged on the stem in groups at about the same level. The ovoid shape of the leaves is characterized by the presence of three pronounced arcs.
• The best propagation method for this variety is cuttings.
• The less moisture the plant receives, the smaller the leaves grow.

Creeping (Serpens)

• Small leaves, 5-6 cm long, have an oval shape and a light beige border.
• The species does not require long daylight hours and direct sunlight, and also easily tolerates a short drought. Spraying is welcome to remove dust that has settled on the surface of the leaves.
• The plant is ampelous, long branched shoots look advantageous in hanging planters.

Climbing (Scandens variegata)

• It has a compact rhizome that does not need a deep pot.
• Able to accumulate fluid in leaves and shoots, easily survives dry periods.
• The stems of an adult plant can reach up to 1.2-1.5 m in length.
• The leaf at the beginning of growth has a light beige color, which eventually turns into a green tint. The tip of the round sheet is pointed.

Pereskilistnaya (Pereskiafolia)

• Pepper shrub, characterized by its miniature.
• Rosettes of 4-5 small, dark green leaves are located on a low, hard stem.
• The homeland of the species is Nicaragua, Venezuela, Peru, Colombia.

Round-leaved Rotundifolia (Rotundifolia), also known as Monetolifolia

• Compact bush form, the rhizome is divided into many creeping stems. Each stem grows up to 30 cm long.
• Small round leaves, arranged in the next order and growing no larger than 1 cm in size, gave the name to this dwarf shrub.
• The view is rather capricious: it does not tolerate moisture and sunlight on open areas of the plant. Watering is done only in the pan. The less the plant is in the light, the brighter its color becomes.
• The light green leaves are soft and velvety to the touch.
• The difference from other species is the thinnest, barely noticeable brown mesh of veins on young green leaves, and the purple color of thin peduncles.
• It blooms in inconspicuous miniature inflorescences of a whitish hue.

Graveolens (Graveolens)

• The exotic appearance is due to an interesting combination of colors of the upper and lower parts of the leaf - light green and pinkish, respectively.
• The leaves are curled at the edges and fit snugly against the reddish-brown stem.
• The height of the bush rarely reaches 25 cm.
• It blooms with pale yellow flowers, located on thin spikelets.
• The species is native to Ecuador and Peru.

Chisel Peperomia Dolabriformis (Dolabriformis)

• Closest to succulents. The leaves are fleshy, 2 cm wide and about seven in length. They resemble a circle folded in half (also a crescent or a pea pod).
• The rosette is shaped like a star.
• During the flowering period, small pale green flowers form on branched inflorescences.
• When caring for chisel-shaped peperomia at home, it is better to dry the ground than vice versa. Direct contact with moisture on parts of the plant can cause rot. The plant is resistant to dry climates, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Plants with green and dark green leaves are usually kept in partial shade.

Variegated (Variegate)

• It is important to keep the view in a well-lit area with diffused light. Otherwise, the shoots will stretch, the leaves will become smaller and paler.
• The more fertile the selected soil is, the longer the plant will retain its presentable decorative appearance.
• The color of the leaves varies from green and red to yellow and brown.

Silver (Argyreia)

• The plant owes its name to its color: long leaves (up to 9 cm long, up to 6 cm wide), connected in rosettes, between dark green veins are painted in a light, almost silver color.
• The soil for silver peperomia is made up of leafy and compost soil, sand.
• South America, Venezuela, Brazil is considered the birthplace of the species.

Happy Bob Happy Bean

• The dark green leaves are folded in half, resembling bean pods.
• The undersized bush reaches 20 cm in height.
• The homeland of the species is South America, Mexico.
• Happy Bean is the easiest to care for at home.

Prostrata (Prostrata)

• Ampelous plant, characterized by small round leaves.
• It differs from round-leaved peperomia in that the leaves on the stem are located at more rare intervals.
• The shoots of Peperomia Prostrata have a reddish tint, the leaves are variegated green with light green and grayish veins and bronze spots.

Red or Rubella (Rubella)

• Rubella is a perennial succulent plant.
• Long, branched shoots have a reddish color.
• Small oval leaves are located on the stem not alternately, like in other varieties, but opposite each other. They are green above, and the lower part of the leaf is reddish.
• The stems and leaves are covered with a rare light pile.
• Spraying this species is not recommended due to the fleecy coating of the leaves.

Wrinkled (Caperata)

• Dark green leaves have an unusual relief - the velvety surface seems to be covered with deep "wrinkles".
• The cluster of heart-shaped leaves, located close to each other, resembles a rosette.
• The stem and leaves contain a sufficient supply of moisture for a period of drought. Excessive watering is detrimental to this type of peperomia.
• At the moment, there are many types of shriveled peperomia, which differ in the color of the foliage (variegated varieties are popular, combining red, white, yellowish, pink, green and other shades).
• The flowering period is in the summer, the plant produces tall, cob-shaped peduncles bearing white or cream flowers, odorless.
• The species is very thermophilic, in winter it is necessary to maintain a temperature of 16-23 C, otherwise the foliage will turn yellow and fall off. In summer, peperomia can be placed on the balcony, having previously been protected from drafts and insects.

Pitted (Puteolata)

• Very large view. It reaches a height of up to 50 cm.
• The stems are smooth, painted in brown and red shades.
• Dark green leaves have milky white veins. The shape of the foliage is lanceolate, pointed at the end.
• Brazil is considered the birthplace of the species.

small-leaved

• If there is no pile on the bush, then in the warm season the leaves can be washed in the shower.
• Small-leaved species require an annual transplant.
• The leaves that gave the name to the species rarely reach sizes of more than 1-2 cm.
• They are popular with builders of florariums.
• A striking example of small-leaved peperomia is the species Rotundifolia.

Green

• Large round leaves are green in color.
• The maximum growth of a bush is 35 cm.
• At home, the species practically does not bloom.
• The green is quite tolerant of dry air, but optimal growth and development occurs in climates with high levels of humidity.
• In order for the leaves not to fade, the plant is placed in a well-lit place, avoiding direct sunlight.

Creeping (Scandens)

• Characteristics are similar to peperomia rotundifolia. However, red stems tend to grow faster than Rotundifolia.
• The leaves are very variegated: light green shades alternate with bronze, yellow and brown spots and veins scattered over the entire surface.
• A prominent representative is the variety Peperomia Prostrata.

Gray (Incana)

• The plant grows up to 50 cm in height.
• The name "gray-haired" comes from the fact that its surface is covered with a light fluff.
• The fleshy dark green leaves are shaped like a wide heart.
• Shoots over time from erect turn into hanging.
• In winter, the species requires regular watering and warm air - 22-25 C.
• In nature, the plant is a carpet that covers the soil, so it does not need abundant watering and constant lighting.

Angulata Beetle (Angulata)

• Miniature shrub, up to 15 cm in height.
• Moistening the soil is allowed more often than in the case of other species. Periodically spray from a spray bottle with soft warm water.
• The species is transplanted as rarely as possible, carefully transferring the rhizome with a clod of earth to a new habitat. The root system is very fragile.
• Fertilizer is welcome during the period of active growth of the plant. For the winter, top dressing is reduced.
• The striped surface of the leaf, covered with light arcuate veins, resembles the back of a beetle.
• The soil must be moisture-intensive, the pot is equipped with good drainage (expanded clay, broken bricks, charcoal up to 6 cm thick).
• Angulata blooms from May to October.

Marble (Marmorata)

• Perennial low growing plant.
• The surface of the oval leaves is covered with a marble pattern.
• It blooms with small white flowers with a greenish undertone.
• Of the undersized peperomia, it is considered the most adapted variety to home conditions.

Raindrop Mnogokistevaya (Raindrop)

• Cone-shaped, dark green leaves with a diameter of 9 cm in appearance resemble the leaves of water lilies. Glossy surface as if covered with wax.
• Grows up to 20 cm in height.
• It is worth avoiding sunlight, the plant feels better in partial shade.
• They bloom in white or yellow "panicles" on brown and dark red peduncles.
• The homeland of the species is considered to be South America, Brazil, Ecuador, and the Amazon rainforest.

Home care

Compliance with simple rules of care will ensure optimal growth and development of the house plant, as well as a long life. Despite the abundance of species of peperomia, and many names, caring for all dwarf "peppers" comes down to some general rules:

1. The plant easily tolerates drought, waterlogging of the soil is detrimental to roots and stems. In winter, watering is reduced to 1-2 times a month; in the warm season, the land is irrigated as it dries. It is important to remember that parts of the plant have their own supply of liquid, so in this case it is better to stop watering once again. Peperomia species with less fleshy leaves are watered a little more often.
2. A shrub or hanging planter with a branchy plant is best placed near the western and northern windows. This will provide the flower with diffused sunlight without harming the surface of the leaves. In winter, they additionally “light up” with the help of artificial lighting, otherwise the shoots will grow very long, and the leaves will be very small and pale.
3. The ideal air temperature in summer is 25 C, in winter 15-18 C. In conditions of elevated temperatures, the leaves begin to fade. If heat is inevitable, the plant is sprayed with warm water from a spray bottle.
4. The pot for peperomia is chosen according to the size of the plant. Too deep and spacious capacity will provoke a period of acclimatization, which will negatively affect the external decorativeness of the plant.
5. Suitable soil mix includes: humus, sand and peat. The peculiarity of such a substrate lies in its friability and nutritional value.
6. It is necessary to exclude drafts in the place where the pot with peperomia is located.
7. Fertilizer is produced once a month with mineral complexes. In winter, top dressing is halved or not carried out at all. After transplantation, it is undesirable to fertilize the plant, since the plant goes through an adaptation period and there are enough nutrients for it in the new soil.
8. Pruning will help preserve the decorative appearance of the shrub - the upper long shoots are slightly pinched and then the plant produces small side shoots that form a neat bush. Take care of the timely pruning of dry and dead stems and leaves.

Peperomia comes from the pepper family and is a perennial shrub. Some species are creeping or climbing. Other varieties are so good at storing water that they need to be watered with care.

A huge number of various varieties and subspecies speaks of the variety of colors and undertones of leaves and shoots of peperomia. The shape and texture of the leaves also varies in a very wide range - from large to small, from smooth to fleecy, from glossy to wrinkled.

Peperomia is a very interesting flower. If you rub its leaves between your fingers, a characteristic light aroma appears. The plant is recognized as the most unpretentious among exotic species. This is ideal for those flower growers who often forget to water and feed indoor crops. Peperomia is able to put up with improper care. Many varieties tolerate both waterlogging and overdrying of the soil quite well. The article will tell about how peperomia is cared for at home and its reproduction.

The peperomia flower is part of the Pepper family. Homeland recognized tropical regions of America and Asia. The culture grows in the shade under the canopy of the forest. She loves peat substrates, rocks, rotting tree trunks.

It is an evergreen, low growing, herbaceous perennial. Some species are shrubs and epiphytes. The leaves are alternate and opposite, fleshy. Their form is different. The color is very different: brown, green, golden. Sometimes there are colorful spots and lines on the surface. Shoots are strong and thick.

Peperomia blooms in the summer season. The inflorescence is a thin cylindrical spike. Consists of small, bisexual flowers. The fruits have the appearance of dryish tiny berries. They are quite easy to separate when touched.

When buying a plant, it is better to choose options with rich and bright color patterns on the foliage. For example, silver peperomia can be a wonderful decoration for a room or garden plot. You should also make sure that there are no damage, rotten areas on the leaves and stem. You can read about how to care for a Decembrist at home.

What types of exotic flower exist?

Many types of peperomia have highly decorative properties. Such a culture is valued by gardeners in many countries of the world. Often it is used by florists to create epiphytic trunks, ampelous compositions and decorative groups. A flower looks very beautiful on a hanging snag, on a piece of bark. It also looks luxurious in bottle gardens.

According to various sources, peperomia has from 700 to 1000 species. However, in horticulture, the number of varieties used is not so large. Before choosing a certain variety of an exotic plant, it makes sense to familiarize yourself with its botanical characteristics and growing characteristics.

The following are the most common types of peperomia:

• 
  Peracid. Peperomia pereskilistnaya comes from the tropical thickets of South America. In the wild, the plant spreads on the bark of fallen, half-decayed trees, creating an unusual green carpet. Despite the fact that this species is a ground cover, it also feels good in ampelous pots. Likes semi-shade. In bright light, it tends to fade. Foliage almond-shaped, rigid. Its length is 3-5 centimeters. The color is dark green with an emerald sheen. Such a flower should not be watered often. But it is advisable to spray regularly.
• Clusi-leaved. It is a terrestrial herbaceous plant. Differs in large and extremely dense leaves. Their texture is almost woody. The length reaches 15 centimeters, and the width is 6-8 centimeters. On the stem are arranged in the next order. They grow on petioles. From above, the leaf plate is painted in a dark green tone with a reddish tint. The edge is framed with a purple stripe. Caring for peperomia clousifolia does not present any particular difficulties.
• Magnolia. Magnolia peperomia is grown at home quite often. After all, the content does not cause problems. This plant has fleshy thick stems 40 centimeters high. Leaves are ovate with a waxy coating. The size is from 5 to 9 centimeters. The hue varies from pale green with pink or cream edging to dark green. Inflorescences are white-green, very small.
• Chisel-shaped. It is a chisel-shaped peperomia undersized plant, up to 60 centimeters high. The foliage is unusual, outwardly similar to pea pods. The bush consists of several powerful stems. Fleshy sessile leaves about 6 centimeters long are alternately located on the shoots.
• Monetolistnaya. Also known as round-leaved peperomia - an ampelous plant with creeping long stems and green small leaves. Possesses high decorative properties. The foliage is dense, forms an attractive, lush crown. The length of the leaf plate does not exceed 1 centimeter in diameter.
• Creeping. Or peperomia climbing, creeping, as gardeners call it. It grows in the tropical forests of America. It is a perennial epiphyte. Shoots erect, lying or hanging down. Foliage broadly ovate, alternate. It is located on petioles. The view is highly decorative. Therefore, small-leaved creeping peperomia is very in demand among gardeners.
• 
  Golovataya. Peperomia round-leaved is most often grown by beginner flower growers. There are no problems in caring for this plant. It is a heady ampelous dense shrub. The leaves are dark green, oval in shape, their length varies from 2 to 4 centimeters. It should be noted that the culture can fade under the influence of bright sun, acquiring a pale green color.
• Wrinkled. Peperomia wrinkled originates from Brazil. It is a low growing compact plant. The height does not exceed 10 centimeters. The foliage is wrinkled, dark green with a chocolate brown tint. The veins are deeply submerged from above, protruding in relief from below. Flowering species. The inflorescences look like thin and long ears, painted in a snow-white tone. If wrinkled peperomia is cared for correctly, in summer the culture will delight with abundant flowering.
• Ferreira. This is an epiphytic plant with a height of 30 centimeters. Peperomia Ferreira has thin, densely leafy shoots. Color light green or light green. Due to the special shape of the foliage, the culture does not need frequent watering. But the soil should always be moist.
• Dull. In the wild, it grows in tropical rainforests and reaches large sizes. However, peperomia tupolista at home usually grows no more than 30 centimeters in height. Leaflets are located on petioles, their shape is obovate or elliptical. The length reaches 12 centimeters. The top of the leaf plate is obtuse, fleshy-skinny. The shade is dark green. This species is deciduous-decorative.
• Rosso. Peperomia Rosso is a low shrub, about 25 centimeters high and up to 15 centimeters in diameter. The leaves grow in bunches, tightly pressed to each other. The bottom of the leaf plate is maroon, and the top is dark green. Such an unusual color compensates for the fact that the plant is not flowering.

There are other varieties of peperomia. For example, whorled peperomia, gray-haired, rotundifolia, pixie, velvety. All of them are also widely demanded, they are distinguished by high decorative qualities and ease of maintenance.

What kind of peperomia is better to choose for growing at home?

It is sometimes difficult for a novice florist to choose a specific variety. After all, the range of peperomia on the market is quite wide. It is worth paying attention to time-tested, easy-to-care varieties.

These include:

1. Happy Bean. Peperomia Happy Bean grows up to a maximum of 20 centimeters. Looks very exotic. Mexico is recognized as the homeland. The leaves are similar to bean pods. Grows thick and dense. At home, the variety does not bloom.
2. Captain Lilian. Belongs to the pitted variety. Outwardly, the peperomia of Caperat Lilian is very similar in appearance to wrinkled. Foliage heart-shaped. The inflorescences are very beautiful, reminiscent of lily flowers. The above-ground part is neat and compact. The height is 50 centimeters. It should be noted that caring for Lilian's peperomia does not require much effort.
3. Mix. It is a mixture of different varieties. The maintenance of Peperomia Mix at home is simple, but it requires taking into account some features of the plant and following a number of rules.

Also, when purchasing seedlings or seeds of a plant in a store, you can consider varieties such as peperomia Angulata, Glabella, Green Gold. It is very easy to care for silver, round-leaved and shriveled peperomia.

How to grow peperomia in an apartment?

To grow such an exotic flower as peperomia, you need to know all the subtleties of this process. Understand how culture is propagated. Know what conditions the plant needs. The condition and viability of peperomia depends on competent care.

Reproduction of culture at home

There are different ways of reproduction. However, cuttings are considered the most effective. The bottom line is to pinch off the top and root the cutting. For the rapid formation of roots, a stimulant Kornevin is used. It is advisable to use a greenhouse container. So you can provide the desired level of humidity, avoid drying out of the substrate. When the shoot with roots begins to grow, it is transplanted into a small pot.

Some gardeners root peperomia leaves. But this method is only suitable for those species that have a fairly dense structure of the leaf plate. Propagation by seeds is almost impossible. After all, they are microscopic, and certain conditions are necessary for their germination, which are very problematic to create at home.

Care and maintenance rules

In order for the plant to develop well and show its decorative qualities to the maximum, it is important to organize the care of peperomia at home competently.

And for this you need to know the peculiarities of culture. This tropical flower does not like dry soil. This is especially true for those species that are distinguished by fleshy and thick leaves. However, waterlogging does not tolerate. In summer, irrigate as the soil dries. And in winter, watering is reduced: moisten the substrate once every 10-25 days. Warm and soft water is suitable. Tap liquid should be settled or passed through a filter.

A place for peperomia should be chosen where there is no exposure to direct sunlight. In the wild, the culture grows in shaded areas. But, if the lighting is insufficient, there is a risk that the plant will take on an unsightly appearance: the shoots will begin to stretch, very few leaves will form. A place that is characterized by diffused lighting is ideal. The southern and eastern window sills are not suitable.

The optimum temperature varies from +15 to +18 degrees. The main thing is that the thermometer does not exceed +25 degrees. Because in extreme heat, the foliage begins to fade: it turns yellow and falls off.

Transplanting a flower into another pot

Peperomia is transplanted in the spring, then the plant enters a phase of active growth and noticeably increases in size.

The pot should not be too big. Shallow miniature bowls will do. If the container is too spacious, the flower will start to hurt, lose its decorative qualities. When transplanting, the stem is not deepened much. It is left above the ground.

The substrate is desirable to choose nutritious and loose. A mixture of peat, sand and humus is perfect. Heavy soil prevents oxygen from reaching the root zone. Which leads to damage to the root system, the death of the entire plant.