Vertical garden: when the plot is small. Watermelon Spark: features of cultivation and care Ways to properly plant watermelons

Growing watermelon and melon in a polycarbonate greenhouse: planting and care

Cucumbers and zucchini grow in abundance in garden beds in all parts of the country. But only the most daring gardeners cultivate their relatives in the pumpkin family - watermelons and melons.

But good harvest these berries, rich in vitamins and macronutrients, are easy to obtain even in the northern regions. All you need is good greenhouse.

Why in a greenhouse?

gourds demanding on the composition of the soil, humidity and air temperature. Deep root system does not tolerate relatives ground water starts to rot. Late frosts, not uncommon in regions with a cold climate, will leave seedlings no chance of survival.

A rainy summer will not destroy the harvest, but will affect taste. The fruits will be unsweetened, watery. When growing watermelons and melons in greenhouses, these problems can be avoided.

What greenhouse to choose?

The frame and covering material can be any. So, cultivation melons and watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse are finding their supporters more and more. They also feel comfortable under a cheap film.

It is worth paying attention only to a number of points.

the greenhouse should be high. Ideally, at least two meters. Shoots of watermelons and melons, tied to trellises, rise high;
prevent cold air from entering. The structure should not have gaps, cracks, rupture of covering material;
exclude the development of fungal diseases (melon crops are especially sensitive to them).

In the spring, disinfect the frame and the ground in the greenhouse with a Bordeaux mixture or a solution of copper sulphate.

Do you need neighbors?

So that the greenhouse does not stand idle waiting for the right temperature to create melons, you can sow early greens or radishes in it. Forerunners will not harm watermelons and melons. melons will thrive well next to drought tolerant, light-loving tomatoes, eggplants.

Moisture-loving cucumbers and bell pepper will not the best neighbors. Adherents of a hot dry climate, watermelons and melons suffer from diseases (powdery mildew, angular spotting, downy mildew) at a humidity of sixty percent.

What varieties to choose?

For growing in a greenhouse it is necessary to choose zoned varieties with medium-sized fruits of early or mid-season ripening. Melon varieties: "Sunny", "Sweet pineapple", "Russian garden", "Thirty-day", "Rainbow", "Autumn" give an excellent harvest in greenhouses. Popular varieties watermelon: "Siberian", "Moscow Region Charleston", "Gift to the North", "Spark", "Cinderella", "Ultra Early".

How to prepare the soil?

Melon and watermelon love fertile soil with weak or neutral acidity. It should be loose, breathable. Water stagnation must not be allowed. It is good to start preparing the soil for the future harvest in the fall. Lay tops, cut grass, rotted manure in the beds.

Dangerous garden pests like to winter in them. In the spring, you can add straw manure or humus with mineral fertilizers.

To improve the structure of the soil, a bucket of river sand is poured into each square meter of the area and the beds are dug up. To reduce soil acidity add calcium and magnesium compounds. They nourish plants and improve their growth.

Sulfur or ammonium sulphate will help to increase the acid balance. The earth must be warmed by the time the seedlings are planted. To do this, remove a layer of soil to the depth of a shovel, put a mixture of grass material and humus, pour big amount hot water. Put the earth on top and cover with a film.

What do you need to know about seedlings?

Two factors influence the production of strong, healthy seedlings:

Properly selected seeds. They must be big and tall. specific gravity. The solution will help not to make a mistake table salt. Seeds are dipped in a liquid (a teaspoon per glass of water). Those that pop up are thrown away. For sowing take settled at the bottom. Necessarily rinse off salt residue, dry.
Nutrient soil. It is sold in stores, but it is easy to cook yourself. Mix three kilograms of humus with a kilogram of soddy land. Add 200 gr. wood ash and a small spoonful of potassium sulfate. Sometimes mix peat or river sand. The soil should be loose, light, well pass moisture.

How to grow watermelons and melons in a greenhouse? Seedlings begin to grow usually in early April. From sowing seeds to the formation of a plant ready for relocation to a greenhouse, 25-35 days pass for watermelons and 20-25 for melons. Based on this, calculate the exact date start of work.

In peat pots for seedlings (can be replaced with plastic cups or a cut bottle), one seed is added dropwise to a depth of up to three centimeters. Cover with foil on top. The temperature is maintained at least 25ºC. When shoots appear, the film is removed. If the greenhouse is heated, pots with future watermelons and melons are transferred there. If the temperature is low, grow on the windowsill.

A few tips will help ensure high viability for young plants.

seedlings need a lot of light. To prevent stretching of plants, it is desirable give them extended daylight hours(at least 14 hours);
watering should be carried out carefully. If water gets on the leaves, they can rot;
plants are sensitive to "personal space". Pots should not stand close to each other;
do not neglect mineral supplements.

Seedlings are transferred to the greenhouse in the stage of two or three true leaves. The earth should warm up to 14ºC. The night air temperature is not lower than 5ºC-8ºC, and the day temperature is above twenty.

With sudden drops in air temperature, seedlings in the greenhouse must be covered. Plants will not endure even short frosts.

The sprouts are carefully removed from plastic containers together with a clod of earth and lowered into holes spilled with warm water. Their depth is 10 cm. Seedlings are placed at a distance of 50 - 70 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern. Above the ground is mulched with sawdust.

You can plant two plants in one hole. In this case, the lashes are directed in opposite directions from each other. To avoid rotting of the root neck, do not deepen the plant too much into the soil. The lump should rise 2 cm above the ground.

How to properly care?

Work upon receipt decent harvest not laborious but requires certain conditions to be met.

Good fruiting will give a properly formed plant.

How to grow melons in a polycarbonate greenhouse? When growing a melon over the fifth leaf, pinch the growth point (as on cucumbers). In a week and a half - two, the processes of the lower row will appear. Weak ones must be removed immediately. Stop the growing point on all strong shoots. Important! If you want to get sweet, juicy large fruits, one berry should grow on each lash.

To do this, wait until the ovaries grow up to five centimeters. Choose the largest of the correct form. Rest ovaries and flowers will have to be removed even if you like them. Otherwise, you will end up with a lot of small, unsweetened fruits with a grassy taste.

In watermelons, pinch the growing point above the fifth leaf. Later, the two lower shoots are removed (the flowers grow on them late, the fruits do not have time to ripen). Subsequent lashes are tied to trellises on both sides of the main sprout. Shoots without ovaries are removed.

Watermelons and melons need plenty of sun and warmth.

A temperature of 30ºC is considered favorable for the development of gourds. In case of prolonged heat, the greenhouse is ventilated by opening windows or doors. This measure prevents the formation of condensate. Important! Melon will easily endure any heat. Watermelons from the scorching heat must be covered with protective material. You can plant a rocker plant (for example, climbing beans).

Humidity should be low.

Watermelons and melons have deep root systems that allow them to extract water underground. When waterlogged, the roots will rot, cracks will appear on the fruits. The plants themselves will report the lack of moisture. If the leaves are wilted, it's time to water. The drip irrigation system has proven itself well, eliminating the ingress of water on the leaves.

This should be done when the plants are still low, under the second or third leaf. As they grow, the lashes are twisted.

Appeared yellow flowers report the need to move on to the next stage - pollination.

It is important not to waste time. The male flowers will fall off after a few hours. Females are capable of pollination within three days. Gourds can be pollinated on their own. But this requires living helpers - bees.

In their absence, you will have to take the pollination process into your own hands. Find male flowers. They are large and without ovaries. Pick them up and remove the petals.

It gives the berries a sweet taste. Ash is especially important for melons. Mineral fertilizers are applied once a month. Every ten days, it is recommended to water the plants with ammonium nitrate diluted in water (15 g per 10 liters of water). Important! As soon as the fruits begin to ripen, feeding is stopped.

You can solve the problem in several ways:

Ripening fruits are placed each in a separate net and tied to the trellis. This best method save watermelons and melons.
Place a plank under the watermelon or melon. This method is good only for the lower fruits (or you have to bend the whips to the ground). The disadvantages include the need to turn the berries regularly for uniform maturation.
Make shelves from any material, fix them on the walls of the greenhouse. The fruits will also have to be turned over.
Sometimes cardboard boxes are used instead of grids. They are difficult to attach to trellises, it is difficult to monitor the development of the fetus.

Will inform about the maturity of watermelons shiny bark with a clear pattern, a shrunken stalk and a characteristic dull sound when hitting a berry. Ripe melons emit a unique aroma. Store crops in cardboard boxes. Preferably each fruit in a separate container.

How to avoid mistakes?

In some cases, melon berries are not tied. This happens because of the mistakes made.

Wrong choice of seeds. It is better to buy them in specialized stores. Pay attention to the expiration date and the admissibility of cultivation in a particular region;
Violation of the conditions for growing seedlings and fruiting plants. The formation of lashes, garter, pollination affect the formation of ovaries;
Low temperature environment. In the cold rainy summer it is necessary to provide additional heating of the greenhouse and illumination of plants with LED or sodium lamps.

Subject to uncomplicated conditions planting and care, gourds in protected ground will grow no worse than under the southern sun. Organic, nitrate-free watermelons and melons delight gardeners with a bountiful harvest and excellent taste.

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Source: http://rusfermer.net/ogorod/vyrashhivaem-v-teplitsah/arbuzy-i-dyni.html

How to properly water a watermelon in a greenhouse

When growing a great summer treat, watermelon, it is extremely important to supply the plant with water in right time. Proper watering of watermelons can double the yield, while untimely "pumping" the plant with liquid will simply rot or make the plant tasteless and grassy.

General watering rules

Watermelons are a very thermophilic crop that bears fruit at a temperature of at least 25 degrees Celsius during the day and 20 at night. Therefore, it must be borne in mind that when irrigating in a greenhouse or open field shouldn't be colder.

Watering watermelons in open ground or a greenhouse is carried out only with warm water. The best option- 24 degrees. This reduces the drying rate of the soil.

Watering begins 10 days after planting seedlings or sowing.
Moisten the soil at least 70 cm deep so that the moisture reaches the root.
After that, the earth must be fed with a solution of mineral fertilizers and loosened.
Watermelons are “watered” in the evenings, when the soil has dried up during the day, the heat has subsided and the glare from the sun can no longer injure the leaves.
The sprinkling method is excluded.
After a heavy rain, watermelons in the open field are not watered, but they are fed with an aqueous solution of fertilizers and loosened.
In a dry, hot summer, watermelons “on the street” are abundantly moistened 2-3 times a week, in a greenhouse as needed. They make sure that water does not spill onto the stems and foliage, but is distributed throughout the melon territory.

Inclusion of fertilizers in irrigation, by week of cultivation:

If you don't want to mess around with adding fertilizer to the water all season, you can add half a teaspoon of AVA fertilizer to the hole before planting the watermelon. It is permissible to use the mixture in granules, a little more than 500 pieces are taken. Then it remains only to water the plants weekly 1-2 liters under the bush without any additives to the water.

Maintain moisture for a long time possible when growing watermelons under hay. When the fruits are formed, the soil under the plants is covered with hay. The soil stays moist longer, future fruits are protected from yellowing at the point of contact with the ground.

Special irrigation regime for periods of growth

When growing watermelons in a greenhouse or open field, it is important to follow the rules of watering in accordance with different periods of crop growth. Sometimes they will be very different.

Time from germination to fruit formation

The process of watering during the period from the formation of seedlings to the beginning of the ripening of watermelons is extremely important. During these periods, the roots of the plant have not yet grown too much into the ground, and are not able to change their growth. It is especially important to water the plants under the root before flowering. They do this once a week, spending 3-7 liters per bush.

When the watermelon is actively coming into color, the “water nutrition” is increased up to 2 times in 7 days, but the volumes are reduced. On an open melon, focusing on the weather, the plant can be watered every day. Watermelons in greenhouses and open ground it is still not worth pouring, otherwise the excess water will “eat” the sugar content of the fruit. On the other hand, a severe drought should not be allowed either. On average, 10-15 irrigations are obtained during the growing season.

As soon as watermelons reach the size corresponding to a certain variety and approach the ripening stage, watering and fertilizing them are stopped.

If you are late with stopping watering, the fruit begins to crack and becomes less juicy. Their ability to store is deteriorating.

Watering methods

The accepted methods of watering watermelons in the greenhouse and "on the street" practically do not differ. Just in the open air, additional “help” from time to time is provided by rain, which should also be taken into account when watering periodically.

Accepted methods of watering watermelons in a greenhouse:

Bucket. Watering with buckets by hand into each hole.
Drip. With the help of a special factory drip irrigation system. At the same time, watering begins from the moment 5-7 leaves are formed, they organize it 2 times daily. Taking into account the absorbency of the soil, lasting up to 1 hour in the morning and evening. Approximately 1.5 kg of fertilizers are added per ton of irrigation water. Such as "Green-Go", "Master" or "Terraflex". By drip method, water and nutrients are absorbed by plantings by almost 100%.
Drip homemade. Install plastic bottle with a lid punched with small holes, “upside down”. The upper part is cut off by arranging drip irrigation. Water is absorbed into the ground as needed, topped up as it is consumed.

Wherever you grow your watermelons, be able to clearly separate the rules for watering crops by ripening time. In nature, it so happened that the quality of these melons largely depends on water, which is able to “nurture” a magnificent “sugar miracle” that melts on the tongue, or make a tasteless “something” out of watermelon. What happens to everyone depends on the work and attentive attitude to the watermelon shoots.

Source: http://ovosheved.ru/arbuz/poliv-v-teplice.html

Proper cultivation of watermelons in a greenhouse in the country

Watermelon is considered a heat-loving plant, so many believe that growing such a crop in the northern or central regions is impossible. In fact, this sweet and huge berry can be obtained in absolutely any region, if you build a greenhouse in the garden and follow all the rules regarding plant maintenance.

Is it possible to grow watermelons all year round in a greenhouse?

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is aimed at obtaining a crop of this crop in the central and northern regions of the country. Year-round cultivation watermelons is unlikely to end in success, because for this crop, all prescribed planting dates must be observed. By the way, square watermelons can also be grown in a greenhouse.

A greenhouse is needed in order to correct the weather conditions and make them more suitable for the growth of such plants. In the off-season, growing watermelons in even a greenhouse is unlikely to end in success, because there will not be enough berries sunlight for full maturation. In the event that you still manage to harvest, it will no longer be so tasty and sugary.

Watermelons in greenhouses

Benefits of using a greenhouse

Growing watermelon in a greenhouse will help create the necessary climatic conditions and protect the plant from various natural disasters. In addition, the covering structure boasts the following advantages:

late return frosts, characteristic of the central and northern regions negatively affect the development of culture. Using a greenhouse, you do not have to worry about this factor;
Too much moisture in the soil and air can significantly affect the taste of the fruit, they will become less sweet and watery;
The greenhouse will help to avoid various kinds of mechanical damage.

The construction of such a structure in the southern regions is not cost-effective, because there are favorable weather conditions even without it and the crop ripens without creating additional conditions. As for other regions, the greenhouse will be an excellent way to grow such melons.

How to choose and prepare a greenhouse or greenhouse?

In order to start growing watermelons in a greenhouse, you first need to build such a covering structure. The size of the land plot and the greenhouse itself will depend on the wishes of the gardener. It should be borne in mind that such plants are planted according to the scheme at a distance of 1 meter from each other, therefore, to grow 10 bushes, you need a structure with an area of 10 square meters, with a length equal to 5 meters and a width equal to 2 meters.

To determine which design fit better others should consider their characteristics:

Tied up watermelons in a greenhouse

A greenhouse covered with a film will be the cheapest and easiest option. The disadvantage of the design is that it is impossible to install additional heating in it, and accordingly it will not be possible to control temperature regime in room. Seedlings can be planted in such a design already in May at home or in the country.
The glass construction will be the most bulky, it will have to establish a foundation. But if you build such a greenhouse, you can be sure of its durability and reliability. It is possible to build a heating system in it;
Polycarbonate greenhouse will be the best option, the only drawback of which will be the price. The design is easy to install, firmly held in place and creates opportunities for organizing heating. Planting seedlings is possible in April. Growing fruits with your own hands is not difficult.

Before planting watermelons, the greenhouse is prepared for this process:

Pipes are laid underground, through which it will flow hot water and thereby create additional heating. As the main element, you can use a gas or electric boiler;
In order to be able to increase daylight hours, fluorescent lamps are installed on the roof of the structure;
Melon crops do not tolerate the occurrence of fungal diseases, so the frame, covering material and soil must be disinfected with Brodsky liquid or a solution of copper sulphate.

Variety selection and seed purchase

In order for the watermelon to be able to ripen and give a good harvest even in the northern region, it is necessary to choose the right variety, it must be zoned and belongs to the early or medium ripening period. Are popular the following varieties watermelon:

Seeds suitable for growing crops should be large and heavy. Hollow planting material will not be able to adapt to environmental conditions.

Planting and caring for the culture with your own hands

In order to grow watermelon in a greenhouse, you need to take into account many factors that affect this process. In addition, they need to be looked after, watered and fed.

Growing seedlings

In order to get watermelons from seeds, you first need to grow seedlings.. It is necessary to plant seeds at the end of April. A mixture of perhum, soddy soil, sand and mineral fertilizers is used as fertile soil.

As a container for growing seedlings, use peat pots, plastic glasses or cut bottles filled with fertile soil. Seeds are sown one at a time, deepening them by 3-4 centimeters.

In order for seedlings to appear as quickly as possible, the container must be kept in a room with a temperature of at least 25 degrees. At further cultivation seedlings should follow some rules:

Light day should be at least 14 hours a day;
Watering the seedlings must be very careful not to get on the foliage of the plant;
Pots should be placed at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other;
Watermelons respond well to mineral supplements.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Before planting watermelon seedlings in greenhouses, it is necessary to prepare the soil. This culture prefers fertile soils with neutral acidity. To achieve the best result, the following components are added for digging:

The next step will be the formation of bulk ridges, which are located along the walls of the greenhouse. Their height should be 30 centimeters, and their width 50-80 centimeters. Optimal distance between rows is considered 1 meter.

Planting seedlings is carried out according to the following algorithm:

To begin with, dig holes 10 centimeters deep;
The seedlings are taken out of the container along with an earthen clod. This is necessary in order to avoid damage to the root system;
Plants are staggered at a distance of 50-70 centimeters from each other;
Deepening the root collar into the ground can cause decay, so it is left on the surface;
After the seedling is in the ground, it must be watered and mulched with sawdust.

watermelon closeup

Proper temperature and lighting

Watermelon develops and forms its fruits in the best way at an air temperature of 30 degrees. To avoid condensation, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated, while avoiding the creation of a draft.

The optimal daylight hours should be 14 hours. With a lack of this indicator, it is necessary to use artificial lighting. Watermelon does not respond well to open sunlight, so on too hot and hot days, the walls of the greenhouse are slightly shaded.

How often to water the berry?

Watermelons have a deep root system, thanks to which the plant can extract moisture from deep layers of the soil. How often is watering done? Water the bushes only when the leaves begin to wilt slightly. In this case, the risk of waterlogging is minimized. During watering, avoid getting drops on the leaves and shoots of the plant.

To obtain the richest harvest once a month, the soil is watered with complex mineral fertilizers diluted in water. Also, before the beginning of the formation of fruits, every 2 weeks the bushes were fed with ammonium nitrate.

plant formation

Getting a rich harvest directly depends on how the shrubs were formed:

Caring for watermelons in a greenhouse

The growth point must be pinched over the fifth leaf;
On the two lower shoots, flowers appear later than the rest, so the fruits do not have time to ripen. Such lashes are removed immediately after their appearance;
Shoots without ovaries are also removed;
In order for the berries to develop well, the shoots are tied to a trellis. Perform such work under the second or third sheet. As the lashes grow, they are periodically twisted;
Lateral shoots, on which the ovaries have formed, are also subject to pruning. They are docked above the third leaf above the female flowers and above the seventh leaf above the male flowers.

Experienced gardeners believe that watermelons should not lie on the ground during fruit ripening, so they are placed in a separate net and hung from a trellis.

After the yellow flowers appear, they will need to be self-pollinated. In the open ground, bees cope with this work, but there are no such “workers” in the greenhouse. The whole process takes place according to the following rules:

It is very important not to miss the designated dates, because the male flowers fall off after a few hours, and the female ones will retain the ability to pollinate for only 3 days;
Male flowers (largest and without ovary) are carefully plucked and removed petals so as not to damage the pollen;
The stamens are applied several times to the pistils.

Possibility of joint planting of watermelons with melons and tomatoes

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is quite an interesting process, and with the proper skill, such a culture can be placed in the same room with other plants:

In order not to wait for a favorable time for planting watermelons, early greens or radishes can be grown in the greenhouse, which will be useful predecessors;
Watermelon is a drought-resistant crop, next to which tomatoes and eggplants are successfully grown. These plants have similar needs and care rules.
Melons are also good neighbors for watermelons. By the way, you can even plant them on the same bed.

Watermelon seedlings for planting in a greenhouse

Harvesting

Harvest usually begins in mid to late August. The full maturity of the fruit can be judged by the following signs:

the junction of the berry and the whip partially dries up;
a bright pattern appears on the surface of the watermelon;
when tapping, you can hear a dull sound and feel the vibration.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is a very painstaking process that requires constant monitoring of various indicators. With the help of this design, it is possible to grow gourds not only in the south, but also in the north and in other regions.

It is difficult to place many vegetable plants, especially large ones, on relatively small plots of land. But this is quite possible, you just need to use not only horizontal surfaces, but also vertical ones. Given the biology of individual plants, feel free to change the configuration of their cultivation.

When there is a shortage of space, compost heaps, mesh fences, terraces, gazebos and arches, vertical trellis, joint crops, etc. are used. This helps not only to get a double crop, but also allows you to give a unique look to the site, cover up unsightly places, divide the site into separate zones, and also highlight secluded shady places for recreation.

For example, cucurbits- descendants of real vines, retained the ability to quickly climb, clinging with antennae to any support.

Butternut squash Pearl with large leaves and long lashes did not fit into the beds. We placed it on compost heap with plant remains (1), where she quickly braided the surrounding area, covering the fence. Timely pinching the tops of the shoots limited growth, which brought significant benefits. By the end of the growing season, we got six excellent fruits from one plant. All summer, the pumpkin retained its decorative effect, occupying a minimum area. Seedling next year large-fruited pumpkin Russian woman planted along the fence in plastic bags filled with plant residues interbedded with sawdust and garden soil (2). At the bottom of the bag, a cross-shaped incision was made to allow water to escape during irrigation and the roots to penetrate the soil. Before planting seedlings, loose humus soil was laid on top of the mixture. After planting, they were watered with warm water and covered with burdock for 1-2 days in order to better take root. The fruits of this variety turned out to be large, they had to be placed in nets. In the future, they began to select pumpkin varieties with medium-sized fruits, without burdening themselves with unnecessary worries. Plants of the Spaghetti variety make an excellent screen for an outdoor terrace, protecting it from the sun on a hot day (3).

zucchini there was also little space in the garden, and we sowed them in standard granulated sugar bags filled with humus with plant residues (4). Previously, the bags were pulled together with a ribbon from above and laid along the fence. At the beginning of May, 2-4 seeds were sown in the hole made, covering it with a layer of soil of 2-3 cm. plastic jar, deepening its edges into the soil by 1-2 cm, so that the wind does not overturn. Plants under such a cap sprout in a week and remain under it until the end of frost. In the 2-3 true leaf phase, extra plants were removed or transplanted.

watermelons adapted to grow in a leaky metal barrel, and melons - in a wooden one, it is slightly smaller in size, but it can accommodate 4-5 plants (5). We install the barrels near fruit trees, fill them with weeded dandelions almost to the top, and when they settle a little, add humus mixed with garden soil. We sow the seeds and cover the barrels tightly nonwoven fabric and film, securing with a ribbon. In the phase of the first true leaf, we leave the required number of plants, and after the threat of recurrent cold weather has passed, we remove the shelters. We water the plants twice a week, tie the formed melons to tree branches, where they ripen (6). In a watermelon on the main lash, the fruits form above the 18-20th node, they reach the ground, where they ripen in the grass. We try to knead heavy fruits from side shoots in a barrel.

cucumbers we mainly grow it in a greenhouse on a vertical trellis (7), we plant excess seedlings in barrels placed along the fence (8) when it gets warmer. Cucumbers always taste better outdoors. Some gardeners arrange "wigwams" for cucumbers (9). First, a manure cushion is introduced in a circle with a diameter of 50 cm, sprinkled with earth with a layer of 3-4 cm. Wide wooden planks or stakes 1.5-2 m high are placed in the center of the circle. Seeds are sown around the circumference and covered with non-woven material, which is removed at the end of return cold . In the phase of 1-2 true leaves, the plants are thinned out, leaving one 25 cm apart.

Then they throw the twine over the installed bar and tie the plants on one side, and with the other end on the opposite side. The twine must be well taut. As the cucumber lashes grow, they are periodically twisted onto a stretched twine clockwise until they reach the top of the trellis. The site is transformed beyond recognition, beautiful huts of 10 plants are effectively visible from afar. The fruits are easy to collect without bending over or digging the plants, and the harvest is an order of magnitude larger than it was planted in the garden. And one more advantage - cucumbers get sick less often.

Under cowpea - asparagus beans - We install metal supports, plastic ones are not suitable. It forms a powerful vegetative mass and produces many juicy long beans without parchment and fiber.

We love cowpea very much - it is rich in vegetable protein and is especially valued for the content of pectin and strong antioxidants that prevent oxidation. ascorbic acid. The plant is thermophilic, we sow it in mid-May, when the soil warms up to 14 at a depth of 10 cm. Sometimes we plant prepared seedlings.

Climbing beans look great on the lawn if you install three iron rods tied together at the top (10). The lower ends of the bars must be firmly buried in the ground. Until late autumn bright flowers fiery red beans will decorate the garden.

curly beans Matilda prefers mesh fence, where it grows with us until late autumn without problems (11). At first, they used to support plants bamboo sticks or thin stems of hazel up to 2 m high, along which they willingly trudged. But these supports are not durable, they quickly become unusable, in addition, in strong winds they bend and break, damaging plants. The advantages of mesh fences are obvious. The morning sunlight illuminates the plants well, which makes them grow quickly. Without any formation, the bean shoots cover the surface of the mesh fence with a solid green wall, hiding the inside of the site from prying eyes. But in wet years, beans sown along the fence are subjected to cruel aggression of slugs, which sometimes completely eat all the leaves, leaving the plants no chance of survival. Then we scatter superphosphate along the landings with a narrow strip.

The sowing depth of curly beans and cowpeas is no more than 3 cm. Next to the plants we sow calendula, which has phytoncidal properties. Usually, along the fence around the perimeter, the area is easily overgrown with weeds, so we carefully monitor the cleanliness of bean and cowpea seedlings. As soon as the plants rise to a height of 20 cm, they are no longer afraid of weeds and slugs. They themselves without outside help they easily climb the net, firmly catching on with their antennae, forming a kind of hedge.

When cultivating climbing crops on our site, we try to observe alternation: we do not grow plants of the same family in one place for more than one year. We use the soil in bags at the end of the season to fertilize the beds. After legumes, cucumbers and tomatoes grow well on it.

Discussion

Thanks, very interesting, lots of new ideas

Comment on the article "Vertical garden: when the plot is small"

Raised beds in winter. Arrangement of the site. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs A question for those who have high beds. And they do not freeze in winter in our conditions? Or do they need to be covered and insulated under the snow?

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The fruits of watermelons and melons burst during the ripening period, and then rotted. Those that seemed to have been saved had flesh yellow color and there was no taste at all. Cracking of melons, and especially watermelon, has a purely physiological nature. This is facilitated by the violation of the water balance in the plant at high temperatures.

This phenomenon can often be observed in film greenhouses. There can be several reasons for fruit cracking:

violation of the ratio of air and soil temperature with soil moisture and relative - air;
cold heavy soil that slowly warms up in the morning;
a sharp influx of moisture after a drought;
soil salinization;
varietal response to the totality of all factors of the land plot;
insufficient provision of plants with calcium.

Other reasons are also possible, the determination of which requires specific observation of plants on melons. For example, according to our observations, varieties and hybrids with cylindrical and oval fruits more often than others react to a violation of the water regime and calcium intake. This is manifested in the form of dried fruits. In China, an interesting phenomenon was recently observed when almost all watermelon fruits “exploded” on the field. It is also interesting that the young fruits of watermelon are a kind of moisture accumulators. At night, the root system pumps water into the young cells of the fruit, and during the day the leaves use it. It is important not to disrupt this process.

Elena Kislaya, p. Kosari, Kanevsky district, Cherkasy region, Zenoviy SYCH, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, Professor of the National University

See also in this section:

There is a widespread stereotype that in our climatic zone it is impossible to get watermelons larger than 8-10 kg. I will share my experience of growing them. In almost any, even the coldest summer, the weight of many specimens exceeds 10 kg, and some reach a pound.

Last year, our family got a good polycarbonate greenhouse, now we grow not only tomatoes and peppers, but also watermelons there. My children, when they found out that I planted watermelons, were simply delighted. They helped take care of the plants all summer, and in September they enjoyed eating sweet fruits with pleasure.

How many times have you eaten delicious watermelon, I collected seeds to grow my plants from them next year. But usually nothing came of my idea: the plants fell ill or formed lush bushes and did not bloom, and if the fruits were tied, they did not have time to ripen before frost.
I began to receive the first regular harvests after I looked into the Register of Breeding Achievements Approved for Use in Russia. It turned out that all the time I grew varieties of watermelons intended for the Volgograd and Astrakhan regions.

gourds demanding on the composition of the soil, humidity and air temperature. The deep root system does not tolerate close groundwater, it begins to rot. Late frosts, not uncommon in regions with a cold climate, will leave seedlings no chance of survival.

A rainy summer will not destroy the harvest, but will affect taste. The fruits will be unsweetened, watery. When growing watermelons and melons in greenhouses, these problems can be avoided.

What greenhouse to choose?

It is worth paying attention only to a number of points.

the greenhouse should be high. Ideally, at least two meters. Shoots of watermelons and melons, tied to trellises, rise high;
prevent cold air from entering. The structure should not have gaps, cracks, rupture of covering material;
exclude the development of fungal diseases (melon crops are especially sensitive to them).
In the spring, disinfect the frame and the ground in the greenhouse with a Bordeaux mixture or a solution of copper sulphate.

Do you need neighbors?

Moisture-loving cucumbers and bell peppers will not be the best neighbors. Adherents of a hot dry climate, watermelons and melons suffer from diseases (powdery mildew, angular spotting, downy mildew) at a humidity of sixty percent.

What varieties to choose?

How to prepare the soil?

Which layer should be manure in a greenhouse for watermelons and melons? Approximately 30 centimeters will be enough. Important! Discard fallen leaves.

Dangerous garden pests like to winter in them. In the spring, straw manure or humus with mineral fertilizers can be applied.

Sulfur or ammonium sulphate will help to increase the acid balance. The earth must be warmed by the time the seedlings are planted. To do this, remove a layer of soil to the depth of a shovel, put a mixture of herbal material and humus, pour plenty of hot water. Put the earth on top and cover with a film.

What do you need to know about seedlings?

Two factors influence the production of strong, healthy seedlings:

Properly selected seeds. They should be large and high specific gravity. Salt solution will help not to make a mistake. Seeds are dipped in a liquid (a teaspoon per glass of water). Those that pop up are thrown away. For sowing take settled at the bottom. Necessarily rinse off salt residue, dry.
Nutrient soil. It is sold in stores, but it is easy to cook yourself. Mix three kilograms of humus with a kilogram of soddy land. Add 200 gr. wood ash and a small spoonful of potassium sulfate. Sometimes mix peat or river sand. The soil should be loose, light, well pass moisture.

Seeds for fast germination soaked in warm water for two or three hours. It would not be superfluous to lower them into a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect against diseases.

A few tips will help ensure high viability for young plants.

seedlings need a lot of light. To prevent stretching of plants, it is desirable give them extended daylight hours(at least 14 hours);
watering should be carried out carefully. If water gets on the leaves, they can rot;
plants are sensitive to "personal space". Pots should not stand close to each other;
do not neglect mineral supplements.

With sudden drops in air temperature, seedlings in the greenhouse must be covered. Plants will not endure even short frosts.

The sprouts are carefully removed from the plastic container along with a clod of earth and lowered into holes spilled with warm water. Their depth is 10 cm. Seedlings are placed at a distance of 50 - 70 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern. Above the ground is mulched with sawdust.

How to properly care?

Work to get a decent harvest not laborious but requires certain conditions to be met.

You can solve the problem in several ways:

Ripening fruits are placed each in a separate net and tied to the trellis. This is the best way to save watermelons and melons.
Place a plank under the watermelon or melon. This method is good only for the lower fruits (or you have to bend the whips to the ground). The disadvantages include the need to turn the berries regularly for uniform maturation.
Make shelves from any material, fix them on the walls of the greenhouse. The fruits will also have to be turned over.
Sometimes cardboard boxes are used instead of grids. They are difficult to attach to trellises, it is difficult to monitor the development of the fetus.

How to avoid mistakes?

In some cases, melon berries are not tied. This happens because of the mistakes made.

Wrong choice of seeds. It is better to buy them in specialized stores. Pay attention to the expiration date and the admissibility of cultivation in a particular region;
Violation of the conditions for growing seedlings and fruiting plants. The formation of lashes, garter, pollination affect the formation of ovaries;
Low ambient temperature. In the cold rainy summer it is necessary to provide additional heating of the greenhouse and illumination of plants with LED or sodium lamps.

Subject to simple planting and care conditions, gourds in protected ground will grow no worse than under the southern sun. Organic, nitrate-free watermelons and melons delight gardeners with a bountiful harvest and excellent taste.

Useful video:

Growing a watermelon or a melon, having at least a film greenhouse, is quite realistic even in the harsh Russian climate. It is enough to choose correct varieties, timely grow seedlings and responsibly approach agricultural technology.

Of course, the first year of caring for capricious gourds may seem difficult or incomprehensible to you. But the next season, when you understand all the principles of growing watermelons and melons, things will go easier and the crops will please.

How to choose varieties of watermelon and melon for a greenhouse

Even the presence of a good greenhouse will not provide you with a warm period of such duration as in the homeland of watermelons and melons. Therefore, it is better to choose early and ultra-early varieties that have time to ripen before it gets colder or plantings attack diseases. In addition, do not chase large-fruited varieties - in middle lane these plants still will not give the promised result, but the taste will be pretty inferior to their medium-sized counterparts.

Varieties of watermelons for greenhouses

In garden centers, you can see the seeds of dozens of varieties of watermelons for greenhouses and open ground. For the first time, you should not collect a dozen bags, 1-2 will be enough, but with proven options.

Variety/hybrid	Ripening period	Fruit weight	Variety features
Knyazhich		4-6 kg	Raspberry pulp, thin skin
Crimson Sweet	67-82 days after germination	3-5 kg	Resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose
spark	70-87 days after germination	1.5-2.5 kg	Slightly segmented surface, brittle crust
Orange Honey F1	70-85 days after germination	2-2.5 kg	Orange flesh, high sugar content
The gift of the sun	68-73 days after germination	4-4.5 kg	Orange-skinned fruit, leaves with yellow veins and petioles, compact bushes
Suga Baby	75-85 days after germination	3-5 kg	Grainy pulp with high sugar content

Varieties of melons for greenhouses

Melons adapted for growing in greenhouses are also characterized by precocity and ultra-early maturity. Many of the varieties are resistant to diseases and boast fragrant juicy pulp in small sizes.

Variety/hybrid	Ripening period	Fruit weight	Variety features
Altai	65-75 days after germination	0.8-1.6 kg	oval fruits lemon yellow, whips up to 2 m long, the plant is resistant to low temperatures
Gold Scythians F1		1.1-1.3 kg	Powdery mildew resistant, densely meshed rind
Iroquois F1	75-80 days after germination	1.2-1.7 kg	Not suitable for storage, quickly loses sugar after ripening
Reward	65-70 days after germination	1.5-2 kg	The crust is covered with a dense mesh
Aujen F1	80-85 days after germination	0.8-0.9 kg	Compact bush with short lashes, well suited for vertical trellis, fruit peel turns yellow when ripe
Ethiopian	70-80 days after germination	3.5-5 kg	Compact powerful bushes, fruits are well stored, the variety is resistant to sunburn

Seedlings of watermelons and melons

At the stage of growing seedlings, watermelons and melons are no different from each other. All procedures and terms for these crops are the same, so you can carry out work "wholesale".

How and when to sow watermelons and melons

A mixture for sowing seeds of gourds is prepared from 1 part of lowland peat, 1 part of humus, 0.5 parts of washed sand. For each liter of the finished mixture, add 2 tbsp. ash and mix well.

Watermelon and melon seeds are sown for seedlings in mid-April. In separate pots, 1 seed is placed to a depth of 2 cm. Initially, the pots are filled with soil by 2/3, and in the process of growth, the soil is poured so that the seedlings form additional roots.

The first days after sowing (until germination) the pots are kept in a warm room with a temperature of 25-30 ° C. After that, the temperature is reduced to 16-18°C for a week, and during the period of active seedling growth, the temperature should be 20-25°C during the day, and 16-18°C at night.

From the emergence of seedlings to planting seedlings in a permanent place, 30 days should pass.

Caring for seedlings of watermelon and melon

Excessive moisture for gourds is detrimental at any stage, so water the seedlings no more than 2 times a week, and let the soil dry out in between. But you should not forget about top dressing - spend the first at the stage of the appearance of the first true leaf, and the second - after 2 weeks.

To fertilize seedlings, dissolve in 1 liter of water:

2 g superphosphate;
1.5 g of potassium chloride;
1 g ammonium nitrate.

The resulting solution can be watered up to 15 plants.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Planting seedlings of watermelons and melons in a permanent place is carried out in mid-May, preferably on a cloudy day or in the evening. Plants are rolled over with a clod of earth, after shedding the soil well.

Melons are sensitive to fungal diseases, so you can not deepen the root neck, and it is advisable to sprinkle the landing site with sand. The first couple of weeks, the seedlings are watered with warm water so as not to increase the stress of the transplant.

Caring for watermelons and melons

IN vivo melon and watermelon growths are so unpretentious that they are sown and forgotten about until harvest. Alas, our climate does not allow us to do the same with melons, and there is not much space in the average greenhouse.

How to water melons in a greenhouse

Watermelons and melons are watered at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per 1 sq.m. Before flowering, this should be done once a week, during the flowering period 2 times a week, and after the fruits begin to ripen, watering is reduced to 1 time in 10-15 days.

How to feed watermelons and melons

In greenhouse cultivation, watermelons and melons are fed 3 times per season (not counting fertilizers that are applied during the seedling period):

1st top dressing - at the time of landing in the ground;
2nd top dressing - in the growth phase of the lateral lashes;
3rd top dressing - during the formation of buds.

An excess of nitrogen fertilizers stretches the growing season and delays the ripening of the crop.

Melons respond well to the introduction of complex mineral fertilizers. It is best to prepare for them a mixture of 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt, 15 g of ammonium nitrate. These substances are diluted in a bucket of water, which is then spent on 2-3 plants.

Formation of watermelon and melon bushes

The most difficult thing in caring for watermelons and melons is the formation of bushes. Since the dimensions of the greenhouse do not allow them to be spread out, you need to install trellises and guide the lashes for vertical growth.

Each plant is capable of producing a couple of dozen ovaries, but 3-4 fruits on one bush can ripen in our latitudes. The rest simply take away strength and slow down maturation. To wait for ripe watermelons and melons, you need to cut off excess ovaries and female flowers.

To prevent the fruit branch from bending, the fruits are placed in a net and tied to a trellis.

Vertical cultivation of gourds in a greenhouse not only saves space, but also gives the lashes more light, which means it speeds up the ripening of fruits. To get a trellis culture, a few days after planting the seedlings, a structure of supports and wire is installed above it. At a height of 2 m, a rope is tied, and its lower end is wrapped around the stem of the plant with a free loop. As they grow, the shoots twist around the rope.

There is one more subtlety in the formation of melons - they need to pinch the apical growth points of the lashes over 3-4 leaves. Then shoots are formed from the axillary buds, two of which must be left and raised to the trellis in the shape of the letter V, and the rest removed. Without pinching, the plant will spend energy on the development of lashes to the detriment of the fruits.

Problems and diseases of greenhouse melons

The greenhouse is able to provide watermelons and melons with the necessary temperature, but these southern plants are also accustomed to dry air. In the closed space of the greenhouse, it is very humid, and this leads to a number of problems and diseases.

Diseases

Most often, watermelons and melons in the greenhouse suffer from powdery mildew and anthracnose. In the first case, the leaves are covered with a white, gradually darkening bloom, and in the second, brown or pink spots form on them, and the fruits shrivel and rot.

Anthracnose spots on watermelon leaves

High humidity, lack of sun and low temperatures lead to the appearance of diseases. Prevention can be treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride.

If signs of powdery mildew or anthracnose appear on melons, the affected areas of the plants should be removed immediately. Double (with an interval of 7-10 days) treatment of plantings with a Bordeaux mixture and regular airing will help to save the crop.

Growing difficulties

Even the most diligent and experienced gardener may encounter a number of problems in the cultivation of these crops. Fortunately, everyone has their own solution.

Lack of ovaries due to the lack of pollination, often found in greenhouse crops. In order for insects to get inside, you need to leave the windows and doors open, sprinkle the bushes with sweet water or plant honey plants next to them. If all measures did not help, you will have to pollinate the flowers manually.

Fruit rot due to high humidity and accumulated condensate. The greenhouse must be ventilated at least twice a day and wiped from the inside, preventing cold drops from falling on watermelons and melons.

Unsweetened fruits- another consequence high humidity. Even if you minimize watering during fruit ripening, the plants will still be able to get water through the leaves, and the sugar level in melons will decrease from this. To deal with this problem, it is worth keeping the greenhouse on a ventilation mode every time the temperature allows it, and closing it only at night.

Is it difficult to grow a watermelon or melon in a greenhouse in the country? We admit, it is not as simple as, for example, zucchini. But you will also get a lot of joy from harvesting a sweet harvest, which means it’s worth the risk.

Watermelon and melon, grown on their own plot, is the dream of many gardeners. As is known, this thermophilic crops, and in harsher climates, they are best grown in greenhouses. With the right approach, this is not such a hard thing, but to feast on honey melons or juicy watermelon will be available at the beginning of summer.

Proper greenhouse

Growing gourds requires the creation of appropriate conditions for plants. They need reliable protection from late frost damage, fertilizing several times a season and shaping plants to produce quality fruits.

To ensure the proper development of watermelons and melons in a greenhouse, it must meet certain requirements.

Greenhouses are not suitable for growing gourds - they are too low and small. A good option would be a high greenhouse. Under natural conditions, the shoots of the plant spread along the ground, and in the greenhouse, due to the limited area, they curl along the trellises. Therefore, the higher the greenhouse, the better. The optimal height is approximately 2 m and above.
In a greenhouse, watermelons and melons can coexist with other crops, but this is not the best option. Southern plants perfectly tolerate drought, high temperatures, but humidity in a greenhouse of 60% or more can cause fungal diseases of melons. Therefore, for their cultivation it is better to allocate a separate greenhouse.
Melon or watermelon require neutral soil pH 6.8-7, fertile, not very oily and well drained. The soil should be well warmed up.

Seeds and seedlings

By choosing the right seeds, you can ensure a good harvest of greenhouse melons. When choosing seeds, it is imperative to give preference to varieties adapted to growing in a particular climate. You also need to pay attention to the ripening time: if the period from germination to ripening is short, then the fruits will be tasty and juicy. With a long ripening period, you can be left without a long-awaited harvest.

Fruit size also plays an important role. The best varieties for growing in greenhouses will be those with small fruits, giant watermelon and melon can only grow naturally in the south.

To get strong, healthy seedlings, seeds are sown in the second half of April. There are several rules that will ensure a good result:

for each plant, it is better to immediately select a separate pot or cup, with a diameter of 8-10 cm;
to increase the germination of seeds, before sowing, they must be soaked for several hours in any immunostimulant or simply in warm water (25 degrees);
to provide seedlings with all necessary nutrients, for one part of plain earth take three parts of humus, a glass of ash and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate;
the seeds need to be immersed to a depth of 2-3 cm, and to make it easier for the sprouts to germinate, they are placed on their side;
the temperature regime is very important, before germination, the temperature should be maintained at about 25 degrees, and after the appearance of sprouts, it is reduced by 3-4 degrees;
before the emergence of seedlings, the cups must be covered with a film or glass.

Seedlings are growing very fast. About a month after germination, it can be planted in a greenhouse. But before that, you should pay attention to young plants:

as the leaves grow, you need to move the cups with melons or watermelons away from each other, giving the plants more space;
daylight hours should be 13-14 hours, so you will have to use additional lighting lamps to prevent stretching and weakening of the sprouts;
it is necessary to feed the plants with a solution of complex fertilizers, the procedure is carried out 10 days after germination, and then again after 10 days.

How to grow a watermelon in a greenhouse (video)

Care for melons in the greenhouse

It is possible to plant watermelons and melons in a greenhouse from mid-May, after warm weather sets in and the night temperature does not fall below +5 degrees.

Before planting seedlings, you need to prepare the soil. In the greenhouse, they dig a trench 20 cm deep, on the bottom of which hay and humus are laid. Then spread nitrogen fertilizer and water hot water. After that, the soil is covered and the prepared area is covered for several days with a black film to quickly warm the earth.

Landing is performed as follows:

the distance between rows should be 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 50 cm;
two plants can be planted in one hole at once, and then their shoots can be planted along the trellis in different directions;
the wells are filled with humus and watered with plenty of warm water;
seedlings have delicate roots, so the transfer from cups or pots to holes must be done very carefully so as not to damage them;
a clod of earth with seedlings should be slightly raised above the soil in order to avoid rotting of the hypocotyl knee.

Further cultivation of watermelons and melons comes down to a few simple operations.

Airing. If the temperature in the greenhouse exceeds 30 degrees, you need to open the windows or slightly raise the film for ventilation.
Watering. If the leaves of the plants begin to fall, then this is a signal for watering. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid getting water on the foliage and excessive soil moisture, which can lead to the development of the fungus.
Application of fertilizers. During the period of active plant growth, nitrogen and ammonia fertilizers and ash are applied during irrigation. When the fruits begin to ripen, stop feeding.
Pollination. How to grow watermelons in a closed greenhouse without bees? You just need to do the pollination yourself. To do this, large male flowers are plucked, petals are cut off and the remaining anthers are passed along the stigmas of female flowers.
Pinching is performed after the appearance of 5 leaves. When the ovaries that have appeared reach a diameter of 4-5 cm, the strongest one is selected on each lash, and the rest are cut off.
Plants can be tied up as early as 10 days after planting in the greenhouse. The grown fruits for tying are placed in nets and tied with twine directly to the trellis.

By adhering to the described rules, you can grow a sweet watermelon or melon even in Siberian conditions, getting an excellent harvest.

Watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (video)

Gallery: watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (15 photos)

Is it possible to grow watermelons all year round in a greenhouse?

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is aimed at obtaining a crop of this crop in the central and northern regions of the country. Year-round cultivation of watermelons is unlikely to end in success, because for this crop, all prescribed planting dates must be observed. By the way, square watermelons can also be grown in a greenhouse.

A greenhouse is needed in order to correct the weather conditions and make them more suitable for the growth of such plants. In the off-season, growing watermelons in even a greenhouse is unlikely to end in success, because the berry does not have enough sunlight to fully ripen. In the event that you still manage to harvest, it will no longer be so tasty and sugary.

Watermelons in greenhouses

Benefits of using a greenhouse

late return frosts characteristic of the central and northern regions negatively affect the development of culture. Using a greenhouse, you do not have to worry about this factor;
Too much moisture in the soil and air can significantly affect the taste of the fruit, they will become less sweet and watery;
The greenhouse will help to avoid various kinds of mechanical damage.

How to choose and prepare a greenhouse or greenhouse?

Watermelon, as well as cucumbers, is grown on trellises, therefore, in order for the plant to feel comfortable and not be limited in growth, the height of the greenhouse must be at least 2 meters.

To determine which design is best suited for others, you should consider their characteristics:

Tied up watermelons in a greenhouse

A greenhouse covered with a film will be the cheapest and easiest option. The disadvantage of the design is that it is impossible to install additional heating in it, and accordingly it will not be possible to control the temperature regime in the room. Seedlings can be planted in such a design already in May at home or in the country.
The glass construction will be the most bulky, it will have to establish a foundation. But if you build such a greenhouse, you can be sure of its durability and reliability. It is possible to build a heating system in it;
Polycarbonate greenhouse will be the best option, the only drawback of which will be the price. The design is easy to install, firmly held in place and creates opportunities for organizing heating. Planting seedlings is possible in April. Growing fruits with your own hands is not difficult.

Before planting watermelons, the greenhouse is prepared for this process:

Pipes are laid underground through which hot water will flow and thereby create additional heating. As the main element, you can use a gas or electric boiler;
In order to be able to increase daylight hours, fluorescent lamps are installed on the roof of the structure;
Melon crops do not tolerate the occurrence of fungal diseases, so the frame, covering material and soil must be disinfected with Brodsky liquid or a solution of copper sulphate.

Variety selection and seed purchase

Siberian;
Charleston near Moscow;
A gift to the north;
Twinkle;
Cinderella, etc.

Seeds suitable for growing crops should be large and heavy. Hollow planting material will not be able to adapt to environmental conditions.

You can check the quality of the seeds with a saline solution, into which the future planting material is released. For sowing, specimens that have settled to the bottom are suitable. Before planting, they are pre-washed and dried.

Planting and caring for the culture with your own hands

In order to grow watermelon in a greenhouse, you need to take into account many factors that affect this process. In addition, they need to be looked after, watered and fed.

Growing seedlings

Before sowing the seeds, they are soaked for several hours in warm water. Using this procedure, you can improve their germination. For disinfection planting material it is not several minutes lowered into a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

As a container for growing seedlings, peat pots, plastic glasses or cut bottles filled with fertile soil are used. Seeds are sown one at a time, deepening them by 3-4 centimeters.

small watermelon fruit

In order for seedlings to appear as quickly as possible, the container must be kept in a room with a temperature of at least 25 degrees. With the further cultivation of seedlings, you should follow some rules:

Light day should be at least 14 hours a day;
Watering the seedlings must be very careful not to get on the foliage of the plant;
Pots should be placed at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other;
Watermelons respond well to mineral supplements.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

humus;
peat;
superphosphate;
potassium salt;
ammonium sulfate.

The next step will be the formation of bulk ridges, which are located along the walls of the greenhouse. Their height should be 30 centimeters, and their width 50-80 centimeters. The optimal distance between rows is 1 meter.

Planting seedlings is carried out according to the following algorithm:

To begin with, dig holes 10 centimeters deep;
The seedlings are taken out of the container along with an earthen clod. This is necessary in order to avoid damage to the root system;
Plants are staggered at a distance of 50-70 centimeters from each other;
Deepening the root collar into the ground can cause decay, so it is left on the surface;
After the seedling is in the ground, it must be watered and mulched with sawdust.

watermelon closeup

Proper temperature and lighting

Watermelon develops and forms its fruits in the best way at an air temperature of 30 degrees. To avoid condensation, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated, while avoiding the creation of a draft.

How often to water the berry?

The consequences of waterlogging are rotting of the roots and the appearance of cracks in the fruits.

plant formation

Getting a rich harvest directly depends on how the shrubs were formed:

Caring for watermelons in a greenhouse

The growth point must be pinched over the fifth leaf;
On the two lower shoots, flowers appear later than the rest, so the fruits do not have time to ripen. Such lashes are removed immediately after their appearance;
Shoots without ovaries are also removed;
In order for the berries to develop well, the shoots are tied to a trellis. Perform such work under the second or third sheet. As the lashes grow, they are periodically twisted;
Lateral shoots, on which the ovaries have formed, are also subject to pruning. They are docked above the third leaf above the female flowers and above the seventh leaf above the male flowers.

On one plant, 5-6 fruits are left, this amount is the most optimal.

Experienced gardeners believe that watermelons should not lie on the ground during fruit ripening, so they are placed in a separate net and hung from a trellis.

Pollination

It is very important not to miss the designated dates, because the male flowers fall off after a few hours, and the female ones will retain the ability to pollinate for only 3 days;
Male flowers (largest and without ovary) are carefully plucked and removed petals so as not to damage the pollen;
The stamens are applied several times to the pistils.

Possibility of joint planting of watermelons with melons and tomatoes

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is quite an interesting process, and with the proper skill, such a culture can be placed in the same room with other plants:

In order not to wait for a favorable time for planting watermelons, early greens or radishes can be grown in the greenhouse, which will be useful predecessors;
Watermelon is a drought-resistant crop, next to which tomatoes and eggplants are successfully grown. These plants have similar needs and care rules.
Melons are also good neighbors for watermelons. By the way, you can even plant them on the same bed.

Watermelon seedlings for planting in a greenhouse

Harvesting

Harvest usually begins in mid to late August. The full maturity of the fruit can be judged by the following signs:

the junction of the berry and the whip partially dries up;
a bright pattern appears on the surface of the watermelon;
when tapping, you can hear a dull sound and feel the vibration.

It is necessary to collect grown fruits very carefully to avoid mechanical damage. In the event that a scratch appears on the watermelon, the shelf life will be much shorter.

Viktor Sergeenko comments…

Please note that if the litter is fresh, it is soaked with water 1:10, dry - 1:20, and as soon as the litter gets wet, it is used at the rate of 1 bucket per 1-2 square meters. Well, if semi-dry, then 1 to 15. Litter is a strong thing - it is always better to breed a little more so as not to harm the plants.

Leaves and paws in the needles will not interfere, of course. I have an approximate consumption of needles 1 bag per bed of 5 sq. m. I fall asleep in late autumn.

Your enthusiasm is respected, if the approach does not change, then the result will certainly be!

For me, the main difficulty is spring shelter strawberries with a non-woven fabric (it is better to take strips according to the size of the beds, and thicker, and cover so that there are no gaps) for the night. Within 2-3 weeks, you need to be nearby, at the slightest threat of frost, close in the evening, open in the morning. The work is minute, but it is not always possible to be in the country at this time. If you have your own house, then this problem is not there - everything is at hand!

And if you miss even one frost, you can lose almost the entire crop! It is very important!)))

Diseases of cabbage FloweryValeru

The fungus that causes clubroot persists in the soil for a long time. Therefore, on the same bed, cabbage and other cabbage plants are planted after 5-7 years, the soil is constantly loosened and mustard or oil radish are not used as green fertilizer.

If a keel appears on the site, monitor the acidity of the soil. Direct fight with kila is almost impossible. For prevention, they lime the soil to reduce acidity, trying to bring the soil pH to 7.0. Additionally, lime is added to the wells when planting cabbage.

Rhizoctonia cabbage

Rhizoctonia — fungal disease cabbage, the causative agent of which is the fungus Rhizoctonia solani. The causative agent is not picky about the conditions external environment, therefore cabbage rhizoctoniosis can develop with large fluctuations in temperature (from +3 to +25 ° C), soil moisture (from 40 to 100% of total moisture capacity) and acidity of the substrate (pH from 4.5 to 8). The fungus does not have a dormant period.

When the causative agent of rhizoctoniosis enters the root neck of cabbage seedlings, the stem turns yellow, dries up and dies, cabbage seedlings die.

If the disease started from the leaves, then small round yellowish-orange spots form on the affected cotyledon leaves.

If the roots are affected, then they are soaked, but with constant hilling of the cabbage above the affected area, additional roots can form.

Infection with rhizoctoniosis occurs when contaminated soil gets on cabbage leaves or when leaves come into contact with the ground. On the leaf petioles of cabbage, oblong, deep, light brown sores up to 2-2.5 cm long are formed. Large, blurry brown spots form on the leaves in contact with the soil after infection.

Rhizoctonia continues to develop on affected heads of cabbage and during storage. At the same time, the leaves on the infected head are easily separated from the stalk, which significantly reduces the weight of the heads.

The fungus survives in the ground and on plant debris. The duration of preservation of fungal spores in the soil without a host plant is 5-6 years. Throughout this period, the causative agent of rhizoctoniosis retains pathogenic properties. Rhizoctonia is a very insidious and dangerous disease, which can infect many vegetable crops, for example, potatoes, in which the disease causes damage to tubers, also called black scab.

Fusarium wilt, or cabbage tracheomycosis

The causative agent of the disease is the soil fungus Fusarium oxysporum (syn. F. conglutinans), which retains its viability for several years. Fusarium wilt- a very dangerous fungal disease. Cabbage is most vulnerable to Fusarium wilt during the period of growing seedlings and planting it in open ground. During this period, Fusarium wilt can destroy up to 20-25% of the total number of plants.

The main sign of Fusarium wilt is the yellow-green color of the leaves and the loss of turgor. Diseased leaves fall off, the head of cabbage is bent, and with a strong lesion, only a small naked head of cabbage, devoid of outer leaves, remains. The fungus penetrates the plant through the roots or through damage caused by pests, spreads through the vessels to the aerial part and significantly impedes the movement of water in the plant.

Massive wilting of cabbage is observed in years with hot summers. Optimal conditions for the development of the fungus, they are added when the soil warms up to +15 +17oC. Air temperature and humidity do not have a significant effect on plant infection.

Peronosporosis, or downy mildew of cabbage

Downy mildew of cabbage- a fungal disease caused by the fungus Peronospora parasitica brassicae. Downy mildew is most harmful to cabbage seedlings and seed plants. The first signs of damage by downy mildew appear on the cotyledon leaves of seedlings in the form of yellowish blurry spots; grayish white coating sporulation of the fungus. Gradually, the leaves turn yellow and die.

The source of the disease can be seeds, soil, plant residues in greenhouses, nurseries. For the development of downy mildew, the favorable temperature is +20 +22°C. After planting cabbage seedlings in open ground, the development of downy mildew stops, although the fungus remains in the plant. In wet weather, downy mildew reappears on cabbage leaves in the form of reddish-yellowish spots with a touch of mycelium on the underside. Downy mildew can also affect other vegetable crops, for example, onions, peas, cucumber, melon, watermelon, pumpkin.

Darkening in the middle of the head

Darkening in the middle of the head is not a disease. The reason for this damage to the head is long-term exposure low temperatures on cabbage in the garden or in storage. Although cabbage tolerates short-term frosts down to -8 oC without visible consequences, however, autumn frosts are often strong and prolonged.

Cold damage to cabbage is often irreversible. The leaves of several layers inside the head become glassy, while the outer leaves have a completely healthy appearance. After some time, the affected leaves inside the head of cabbage acquire a reddish or reddish hue (such damage to the cabbage is called the “red heart”), when exposed to heat, they can turn black, emitting an unpleasant odor. Similar symptoms can be observed in cabbage storage areas with low oxygen levels and high carbon dioxide levels.

Frost-damaged cabbage should not be stored. The top healthy leaves of frozen cabbage can be processed or used as food.

In order not to expose the cabbage to sub-zero temperatures, the crop must be harvested before the approaching severe frosts. For long-term storage Cabbage is harvested in general before the onset of sub-zero temperatures.

In frost (-3 -4oC), mid-ripening cabbage is usually harvested, which goes for sauerkraut. A short-term decrease in temperature improves the taste of cabbage, it becomes sweet and juicy, therefore sauerkraut so delicious.

cabbage mosaic

Chaotic yellow spots, strokes, rings appeared on cabbage leaves - this may be a manifestation Viral mosaic. Mosaic can affect almost all types of cabbage, as well as radish, radish, swede, turnip. The virus is transmitted to plants by sucking insects: aphids, thrips, spider mites.

There are no means of control against the mosaic of cabbage, you need to fight insect pests. If a mosaic develops on cabbage leaves, any plants with a mosaic pattern will need to be removed and destroyed to prevent the mosaic from spreading to other plants. As a preventive measure, spraying with insecticides can be offered.

Control measures for cabbage diseases

1. Heat treatment of cabbage seeds before sowing (if they are not treated with anything): placing cabbage seeds in water heated to +48 +50 ° C for 20 minutes, then immediately for 2-3 minutes in cold water, and then drying to loose state. At heat treatment cabbage seeds must be remembered that temperatures above + 50 ° C are fatal for them.

Mandatory disinfection of cabbage seeds against dry rot, black bacterial rot of cauliflower with fungicide preparations, since this infection is transmitted with seeds. White, gray, wet bacterial rot are not transmitted through seeds.

To increase productivity and reduce infection with diseases, it is advisable to carry out pre-sowing treatment of cabbage seeds with growth-stimulating, biological and chemicals, for example, agate 25-K, pseudobacterin-2, phytocide.

However, now you can buy fungicide-treated cabbage seeds, the shell of which can be very different: green, brown, and red. They cost a little more than regular seeds, and the packaging says that the seeds have already been processed. Such seeds do not need to be processed before sowing, they are sown immediately.

2. When growing seedlings of cabbage, it is necessary to prevent the defeat of the black leg. This is created by optimal planting density, proper watering and ventilation during forcing seedlings in seedling boxes, greenhouses, greenhouses.

Against root and stem rot on cabbage seedlings, two fungicide treatments are used, even potassium permanganate, through watering the seedlings with an interval of 3-4 weeks.

During picking, cabbage seedlings with black leg, clubroot, fusarium, downy mildew and bacteriosis are culled. Also, diseased seedlings are culled when planting in open ground, so as not to infect the ground and not provoke damage to other, still healthy plants.

Do not forget to water cabbage seedlings under the root with a solution of potassium permanganate (10 g per 10 liters of water) after planting in open ground.

3. Disinfection of greenhouses with 12% formalin solution or bleach, blue vitriol, Bordeaux mixture. Disinfection in greenhouses should take place in a certain sequence: first, the soil is cultivated, then the greenhouse structures.

4. Compliance with crop rotation on the site. Cultivation of cabbage after beets and legumes that are not affected by bacteriosis. The best predecessor crop for cabbage as a prophylactic against keel is onions.

5. Dusting the growing cabbage with ashes. Ash itself is a microfertilizer, in addition, it helps to cope with pests: cruciferous flea, slugs, cabbage fly and others. During the growing season of cabbage, it is necessary to carry out timely control of pests that can be carriers of many diseases. If necessary, use folk remedies or modern insecticides.

7. If diseased plants appear, they must be immediately removed from the garden, and the rest should be treated with any fungicide preparations: 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 ml per 10 l of water) or 0.4-0.5% chloroxide solution copper (40-50g / 10 l of water), biopreparations: Agate 25-K, Pseudobacterin-2, Fungistop (Trichodermin) or others, following the instructions for use of the preparations.

8. Storage at optimal mode(air humidity 95%, temperature from 0 to -1°C). During storage, it is necessary to inspect the heads of cabbage, and at the first detection, even with weak signs of white, dry, wet rot, the destruction or urgent processing of heads from storage. With gray rot, it is enough to cut off only the upper coverts of the affected leaves.

When writing the article, materials from http://agrosovet. com. ua, http://www. art pen. ru, http://miragro. com

Image source: www. Rapool. de, cropnet. pl, pnwhandbooks. org, www. uky. edu, www. madosz. hu, www. pref. ibaraki. jp, www. agronomicabr. com. br, onvegetables. com, www. forestryimages. org, www. orthosemplice. it, web2.mendelu. cz, www. manitobacooperator. ca, the biking gardener. com, mtvernon. wsu. edu Osborne International Seed Co (2) Lindsey du Toit (2), figshare. com, www. omafra. gov. on. ca(6), www. agric. w.a. gov. au, www. flickr. com Scot Nelson. plantpath. cases. uga. edu, www. bejo. cz

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Vertical garden: when the plot is small. Watermelon Spark: features of cultivation and care Ways to properly plant watermelons

Growing watermelon and melon in a polycarbonate greenhouse: planting and care

Why in a greenhouse?

What greenhouse to choose?

Do you need neighbors?

What varieties to choose?

How to prepare the soil?

What do you need to know about seedlings?

How to properly care?

How to avoid mistakes?

How to properly water a watermelon in a greenhouse

General watering rules

Special irrigation regime for periods of growth

Time from germination to fruit formation

Watering methods

Proper cultivation of watermelons in a greenhouse in the country

Is it possible to grow watermelons all year round in a greenhouse?

Benefits of using a greenhouse

How to choose and prepare a greenhouse or greenhouse?

Variety selection and seed purchase

Planting and caring for the culture with your own hands

Growing seedlings

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Proper temperature and lighting

How often to water the berry?

plant formation

Possibility of joint planting of watermelons with melons and tomatoes

Harvesting

What greenhouse to choose?

Do you need neighbors?

What varieties to choose?

How to prepare the soil?

What do you need to know about seedlings?

How to properly care?

How to avoid mistakes?

How to choose varieties of watermelon and melon for a greenhouse

Varieties of watermelons for greenhouses

Varieties of melons for greenhouses

Seedlings of watermelons and melons

How and when to sow watermelons and melons

Caring for seedlings of watermelon and melon

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Caring for watermelons and melons

How to water melons in a greenhouse

How to feed watermelons and melons

Formation of watermelon and melon bushes

Problems and diseases of greenhouse melons

Diseases

Growing difficulties

Proper greenhouse

Seeds and seedlings

How to grow a watermelon in a greenhouse (video)

Care for melons in the greenhouse

Watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (video)

Gallery: watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (15 photos)

Is it possible to grow watermelons all year round in a greenhouse?

Benefits of using a greenhouse

How to choose and prepare a greenhouse or greenhouse?

Variety selection and seed purchase

Planting and caring for the culture with your own hands

Growing seedlings

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Proper temperature and lighting

How often to water the berry?

plant formation

Pollination

Possibility of joint planting of watermelons with melons and tomatoes

Harvesting

Diseases of cabbage FloweryValeru

Rhizoctonia cabbage

Fusarium wilt, or cabbage tracheomycosis

Peronosporosis, or downy mildew of cabbage

Darkening in the middle of the head

cabbage mosaic

Control measures for cabbage diseases

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