Do I need to spud roses for the winter. At what temperature should roses be covered for the winter? Spring removal of shelters

Preparing roses for wintering

Roses are prepared for wintering in several stages:

1. In October, the soil under the roses is dug up (on a spade bayonet) or loosened with a pitchfork, trying not to damage the roots.

2. Shrub shoots and climbing roses you need to gradually, in several steps, bend to the ground and lay on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.

3. Then the bushes spud, i.e. they pour a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high to the base of the bush. At the same time, they do not rake the earth from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but pour it (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. Cropped hybrid tea roses and floribunda as a result are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.

Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such an earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) for some time remains significantly higher than outside.

With hilling roses for the winter, do not rush. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.

It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.

4. When the ground is slightly frozen (in middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), roses cover completely. It is best to do this in dry weather.

One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is relatively reliable. mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.

More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10°C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from penetration excess moisture, and a layer of air protects plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or arrive in early spring can use it: with an air-dry shelter in March, roses need to be aired periodically.

The main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5°C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle lane without any additional shelter.

Before the shelter of roses in botanical garden we spud the bushes with earth to a height of 20-30 cm. Only the earth must not be raked from under the bush, it must be prepared in advance. autumn pruning-only for the convenience of hiding.

All roses can be divided into two groups: the first - climbing and shrubby - either do not cut at all, or only by 1/3; the second group: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, polyanthus - they can be cut to half the length.

Be sure to remove the entire leaf and unripened shoots. We do not bend the stems, we only lay climbing roses.

We cover with spruce. If it is not there, you can use lutrasil, the thickest. Ideally, if there is both spruce branches and lutrasil - the spruce branches thicken, make the shelter heavier. It is desirable that the roses be covered by the first of November.

By this time, as a rule, both the first and second hardening frosts have already passed. Yes, it can be rain, and the temperature is above zero, but this can happen in January, not everyone has the opportunity to open and ventilate their roses?

L. Bumbeeva, researcher at GBS RAS, curator of the rose collection.

My hybrid teas sleep standing up...

Preparing roses for winter starts with the last feeding And in August. I use potassium sulfate. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are usually recommended, but I have

loams in which phosphorus accumulates. Naturally, I continue to monitor the health of the bushes. If diseased leaves appear, remove them. It depends on the autumn, of course, but, as a rule, roses bloom until mid-October. Then I remove the buds

and what blooms, let it bloom. Before shelter, I treat the bushes with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. For some time now, I have not cut roses, but pulled the stems with synthetic twine and wrapped with lutrasil.

Naturally, inside the bush I already have a mixture of peat and sawdust in equal proportions with the addition of a cup of ash. Ash perfectly protects against fungal diseases. I wrap the stems with lutrasil to a height of fifty centimeters, the tops remain sticking out.

By pruning roses, we remove the “strategic reserve” of nutrients accumulated in the shoots, which, with the onset of cold weather, passes into the roots, and in the spring allows the rose to start growing.

I bend down only climbing roses and scrubs. Tea-hybrid up to one and a half meters high hibernate "standing".

Natalia Anzigitova, rose collector.

Oddly enough, I recommend electrodes for sheltering roses for the winter.

Roses are supposed to be covered in November, usually they do it on the November holidays, but I don’t have the opportunity at this time, so I’m shifting the dates. I start to cover my roses from the beginning of October, until I cover everything, it’s already November.

I don’t spud bushes, it’s damp for me, roses rot under the spud. And I don’t cut it off: firstly, I try to keep as many shoots as possible, and secondly, if I cut it off, it will be more difficult to bend down. I pin large bushes to the ground with bush holders (or any large hook), and I fix small ones with welding electrodes, they look like large ones. sparklers and are easily bent with a “hairpin”. About five years ago I bought several pieces specifically for roses, very convenient. I cover only with lutrasil, the thickest - “six”, in two layers. Lapnik, I think, does not insulate, it serves only to retain snow. If frost hits the bare ground, as is often the case with us, lutrasil will soften them at least a little.

I.Makhrova, rose collector.

Above modern varieties roses do not need to fence towers ...

I cover my roses somewhere on the seventh or eleventh of November, when it already freezes to -5-7c, but I install arcs and other structures podlutrasil earlier.

If the autumn is slushy, then I throw a “roof” from the film on these arcs, and then I take it off and put lutrasil instead of the film. Lutrasil is enough. If there is ten centimeters of snow on the lutrasil, then under cover it does not happen lower than -4’C.

I cut roses only to the height of the structure. If it is possible to bend the stems - I bend without pruning. It is impossible to cut short roses in autumn, especially climbing and scrubs.

The exception is, perhaps, only neglected bushes, especially park roses. Here they can arrange a “spring” short pruning in the fall, spud up well and not unpunch, at least until the beginning of summer.

In old bushes, dormant buds are in deep sleep, if the bush is unraveled early, they will not have time to wake up and will simply dry out from the sun and wind. Hilling is best done with structural soil, for example, loam with humus. You can sand, but not peat!

Especially if in the spring the water stands on the site for a long time. In general, I believe that peat and a rose garden are “antipodes-antagonists”.

I remove the leaves only if they are sick (if they themselves have not fallen from the disease). Yes, they write that you need to cut the foliage, but imagine a rose garden of seven hundred roses! How many gardeners do you think it takes to cut all the leaves?

I remember we once removed leaves from the Rambler. The whole family cut their hair, my boys said it was Slave work. The main thing is not in the dilemma "to cut or not to cut" - you need to choose resistant varieties.

G. Pankratova, owner of the grand rose garden

Air-dry shelter for roses for the winter is the best!

I have been dealing with roses for over thirty-five years and have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than air dry shelter. After all, roses do not freeze out here, they rot.

I don’t cut roses before sheltering: firstly, I think that it’s not advisable to injure them twice (both in spring and autumn), and secondly, everything nutrients from the tops during autumn and winter they pass into the roots.

I begin to bend down the bushes in September, I do it gradually: I install arcs over slightly bent roses, after two or three days I stick them a little deeper and so on until I bend down properly. I arrange a “hut” above the roses, its optimal height is 60 cm.

If it is higher, the roses will freeze. In dry weather, I make a temporary roof from a film, but leave the ends open so that the wind dries the soil. When frosts begin -5-7 C, I close the ends.

I cover the roses with roofing material, it is possible with a film, but then there must be some moisture-absorbing material between it and the roses. If you cover only with a film, condensation will collect on it, and the roses will have an infectious burn.

Climbing roses must be laid on slate or roofing felt, they should not lie on the ground. Foliage would be nice to remove, but I do this only when possible, if not, I leave it. Sometimes, you know, I open roses in the spring, and the foliage is green, alive, healthy.

A. Teorina, master of growing roses.

Not according to the calendar, but according to the weather

When at least -3 C is established during the day, then it's time to cover.

I cut off the entire unripened part, however, here we must remember that some varieties of roses have a brown color of the shoots. If there are doubts about the maturity of the shoot, you can make a test cut: if there is wood, then the shoot has matured.

I fall asleep roses with dry earth, compact (this is very important!) I cover with two layers of lutrasil with the smooth side up (this side does not let moisture through).

Then, even if it rains, it will only get wet top part earthen mound, and the base of the bush will remain dry. I don’t bend the shoots, I cut the roses, of course, except for climbing ones, leaving about 50 cm from ground level.

I remove the leaf.

I know, they say, it is too laborious, but by the time of shelter, the leaves from the bushes already fall off by themselves. With climbing ones, yes, it is difficult to cut off all the foliage.

If the climbing roses did not get sick, then the foliage can be left, but if there are spots or signs of fungal diseases, I think that it is necessary to remove it, no matter how laborious it may be!

K. Golenya, hereditary rose grower.

Shelter of roses - 2 main ways

Many flower growers own experience made sure that the early shelter of roses is dangerous due to the decay of plants, and therefore do not rush: a slight decrease in temperature (-2 ... - degrees) will even benefit the plants - for hardening.

There are two main ways to cover roses.

1. Hilling When the air temperature starts to drop below +3 degrees, lightly spud the roses with peat (from 10 to 30 cm - depending on the height of the bush) so that cracks do not appear on the bark during autumn temperature changes. With the onset of persistent cold weather, cut off the leaves and non-lignified parts of the shoots, then cover them completely - cover them with spruce branches, and pour insulating material on top with a layer of 25-30 cm (peat, dry leaves, humus).

After pruning, install shields around the bushes (from boards, slate, etc.). Inside the space limited by the shields, cover the roses with spruce branches, put ceiling shields on top, leaving openings for ventilation until frost is stable.

When the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm, cover the shields from the sides and top with dry leaves or cover with spruce branches with a layer 20 cm thick, and in winter also with snow. Shields can be replaced with roofing material (for low bushes). Pull the branches with twine along with spruce branches, set pegs near the bushes, and roll the roofing material around in the form of a pipe. Pour dry leaves into the pipe, and cover with a bucket on top.

In early spring, snow is removed from the shelter and openings are opened. And after thawing the soil, shields or roofing material are removed, the plants are unraveled.

The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated year after year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.

TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER

Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.

Per last years several times the autumn was very protracted: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.

Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, at low sub-zero temperatures, roses harden.

Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!

Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. At first, light cover (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset negative temperatures finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).

Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.

DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?

Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.

Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.

If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems garden pitch.

You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.

Climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.

But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.

Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).

HOW TO COVER ROSES?

Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.

Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.

If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.

So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.

To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).

Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.

Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.

WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?

1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.

Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.

2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.

3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.

4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.

IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?

There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).

PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS

Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.

Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.

And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.

SUMMING UP

To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.

If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.

N. Petrenko, Ch. editor

For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.

Tasks of the grower

A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing based on my own experience with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.

Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:

• foliage removal;
• hilling bushes;
• shelter them from the cold.

Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose

Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:

• increases resistance to frost;
• provides access sunlight to stems;
• ventilates the crown;
• encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
• stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.

Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.

Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.

Preparatory procedures before pruning

Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before the winter preparation of the plant:

• collect fallen leaves from the ground;
• carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
• try not to hurt the stem itself;
• stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.

Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.

The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:

Hilling bushes

1. Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
2. Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
3. If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.

Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.

Cutting technology

The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.

After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:

Trimming process

• 3 year olds or older;
• With a large number side branches;
• covered with dry bark.

Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.

Different types of roses have their own pruning features:

1. Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
2. Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
3. floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.

How to insulate roses for the winter

If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.

Preparing for winter

The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.

From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.

Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.

Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.

Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.

Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, not always and not everywhere the natural and climatic conditions are favorable for the cultivation of this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to beginner gardeners. About which roses are recommended to cover for the winter, features of shelter different varieties and varieties, optimal timing, the subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational ways, will be covered in our article.

When to cover roses for the winter

name certain deadlines when you can cover roses for the winter is very difficult, because it primarily depends on weather conditions your region and its climatic features.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when the stable ones come. sub-zero temperatures, and these should not be single frosts, but it is desirable that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this already on frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it is better to take even the average daily temperature), it should stabilize at around -5 ..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to keep an eye on the weather forecast all the time.

Note! If, along with a decrease in temperature, snow also fell, then you can cover directly in the snow.

But the approximate terms of shelter in the regions can still be called. So, in the middle lane (Moscow region), roses cover around the end of October - the first half of November, as well as in Leningrad region, and in the Volga region. In the northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the South of Russia - the most late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and it rains.

Video: when to cover roses for the winter

What roses need to be covered for the winter

park roses , as a rule, very rarely shelter for the winter, tk. they possess high enough winter hardiness.

Park

But floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses cover necessarily. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to hide.

Important! Hybrid tea roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut “to zero”, but if okuchka was sufficient, then the chance to find living branches under it is quite high.

Hybrid Tea

Video: shelter hybrid tea roses

The specifics of the shelter of climbing roses

Obviously, it is difficult enough to cover climbing roses. because of their great height.

The technique of sheltering climbing roses is as follows:

Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine (twine) to make a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different directions. After that, already under its own weight, a sheaf (bundle) of roses easily leans to the ground.

Video: shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Features of the shelter of standard roses

It is not so easy to cover standard roses.

The specificity of the shelter of this variety is as follows: you dig your rose from one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arcs. You fall asleep (spud) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the stem itself.

By the way! Some especially scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the whole rose with covering material, also put a frame on top, which is also covered.

Video: how to cover for the winter standard rose

But it’s best not to bend the bushes (especially adults, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including a bole.

Preparing roses for shelter for the winter

Before covering roses, it is necessary to carry out the following measures to prepare the "Queen of Flowers" for winter:

• Feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
• Spend autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).

• Slices cover with garden pitch or even better pasta "RanNet".
• Pick up all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and breaking the leaves), as it is a source of infections.
• Treat for diseases and pests. For example, you can sprinkle copper-containing preparations (blue vitriol or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oksikh. and etc.

Important! If you cover roses with leaves, or the plant was sick, then treatment is required.

Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone different land, climate (weather). For example, some flower growers believe that an okuchka in the middle lane (Moscow region) is a boon for roses, because they fade much more often than they freeze out.

But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often simmer.

Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - then rains, then thaws, it is better to put arcs, throw a spunbond on top, and leave vents on the sides. As soon as the cold sets in, the vents should be closed.

• shelter.

Important! Shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides

Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, and not one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.

Covering with earth or hilling

The most "ancient" way to cover roses is to sprinkle with earth.

However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, even in late autumn), roses under a layer of earth simmer.

But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.

At first, you just lightly cover the base of the bush with earth, and already with the onset of stable frosts, you fall asleep and the bush itself (but preferably with dry earth), making a mound about 30 cm high.

Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with earth, then, if possible, add more snow when you clear the paths. So your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.

Without arcs (air-dry)

To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered again, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches, last year's semi-dry ones will do.

Important! Optional and no need to cut branches spruce branches right from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.

If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then instead of it you can use branches from pruning shrubs(only not sick), but also better branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.

Please note! Hay will not work, because. it dies and under it mice start up. As well as sawdust, because they get wet during thaws, and when frost hits, they freeze and spoil root collar, it turns black - sizzles in an icy cocoon.

Step-by-step instruction rose shelters for the winter without arcs (on branches):

On arcs (air-dry)

Step-by-step instructions for sheltering a rose for the winter on arcs (air-dry method):

Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials

Interesting! Covering material is necessary to protect against the icy wind in the pre-winter season and from sunburn spring.

Its installation on the frame (arcs or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.

Generally, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then the wintering will be excellent.

Film cover

A lot of people use film for shelter. However, you can cover roses with foil only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in the very early spring (or you live in a private house) to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply warm up. In addition, the frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can be torn).

By the way! If you are a resident in the rainy region then over spunbond it is recommended to cover the roses with a film on the arcs, but it is important not to close the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.

Note! In all other cases, it is impossible to cover a rose with a film, it does not breathe!

Shelter with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)

Shelter advantage nonwoven fabric is the fact that despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, under such a shelter it still practically does not accumulate, most of it rolls off. Thus, under the agrofibre, the most optimal mode humidity and air.

If you have found a 30, 40 micron spunbond, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).

Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. Inside, the earth will begin to thaw earlier, there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used in beds (strawberry) or flower beds so that weeds do not grow.

Video: sheltering roses for the winter with spruce branches and spunbond

Bags of sugar

It is quite budgetary to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags, they practically do not let moisture through and breathe well (thanks to weaving structure).

Advice! It is quite convenient to put bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.

Shelter with cardboard

Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (this is immediately a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so it is necessary to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (in 2 layers) or film.

And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and the final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the shelter breathes).

Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film

Conclusion! Thus, when choosing a covering material, the following rules should be followed.

• Between shelter and rose shoots should be space - air space, it will protect the flowers from the cold.
• Cover must be breathable, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no high humidity inside.

Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.

Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden

Features of sheltering roses in different regions

Depending on the climatic features of the growing region of the “Queen of Flowers”, there are some small nuances for sheltering roses for the winter.

In the south of Russia

If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to spud roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or simply earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, then new ones will grow from the neck.

In the middle lane (Moscow region), in the Urals and in Siberia, everything is different.

In the middle lane (Moscow region)

The middle lane is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. Therefore, the best shelter for roses in the middle lane (Moscow region) is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.

In the Urals and Siberia

In principle, the shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to the shelter in the middle lane, but amateur flower growers advise to do without hilling, using spruce branches (quite controversial), but simply to make an air-dry shelter on arcs, pulling, for example, geotextiles from above in 1 layer (density 150).

Video: shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia

How to save roses in winter in very cold northern regions

Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in the frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where in winter it can be up to -50 and below.

With such climatic conditions better plant roses in a pot and for the winter to lower into the cellar or basement.

For normal storage in the cellar all winter must be maintained very low temperature- no higher than + 4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. At a higher temperature, roses will begin to grow and stretch from a lack of light.

winter care for roses in pots in the cellar the following: first of all, it is necessary to ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out “to death”, which means that it should be periodically watered in a dry way, putting snow in the pot.

In the spring, gradually begin to bring out into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.

So that even for novice gardeners, flowers of tenderness and beauty endure the winter without problems and delight in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in their shelter for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the features various kinds and varieties of roses, the optimal timing of shelter, as well as natural and climatic conditions in different regions and the most suitable ways protection against thaws and frosts.

Video: how to cover roses for the winter

Important! If you you do not want to under the shelter of a rose gnawed by mice, then it is necessary to put special sent decoys or alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).

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