Protection of thuja from ticks and fungal diseases. Thuja care in the spring - simple rules and useful tips

The most common thuja diseases and methods of dealing with them

Not only pests are dangerous for thuja. With improper care and watering, they can be subject to disease. It is worth considering the main ones: how they are characteristic, and how to cure your favorite trees from them.

Phytophthora

Phytophthora is considered the most famous and dangerous fungal disease of thuja. It's a root disease that destroys it upper layer. This is reflected in the appearance of the thuja as follows: it withers, turns into grey colour, the lower part of the trunk becomes soft to the touch. The tissue under the bark changes color to brown, and a plaque will appear below. The root becomes brittle, with a smell of rot.

Basically, phytophthora affects thuja growing on poorly drained land, the water often stagnates here.

Treatment

For the prevention of phytophthora, it is often necessary to water the thuja with fungicides. If the disease nevertheless got to it, and the roots festered, it is best to destroy the tree and replace the earth, since this fungus is still long time can live.

This is a fungal disease that appears in early spring. You can notice it by yellowed scales. In the late stage of development, the disease affects the entire shoot, and it dies.

How to overcome?

To protect the thuja from this disease, it is constantly fed, and the roots are sprinkled with limestone. In the period July-October until October, it is advisable to spray the thuja with Fundazol (2% solution) every 2 weeks. If you see at least one affected shoot, it should be cut out immediately, and then the disease will not spread further.

If the bark is covered with yellow ulcers, which gradually grow and increase, your tree has picked up a false shield. Treatment should be started immediately, otherwise this disease will cause spots to cover the entire trunk, and it will die.

What to treat?

In order to destroy the false shield, the following means are used: Rogor, Karbofos, Aktellik, Antio.

There are also folk methods. To prevent this disease, you can wrap the trunk with straw or burlap. At the same time, treat the branches with a soap solution on dinatured alcohol (15 grams of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 l warm water). Another way is to apply special glue from caterpillars to the surface (this will keep pests out).

As soon as you notice just a few larvae, try to simply brush them off with a brush or knife without damaging the bark.

Shutte and rust

fungal diseases, manifested by darkening and falling of needles. They begin in the spring and spread throughout the year. Mostly young trees are affected.

How to remove rust and shute? The best drugs for prevention

To stop the development of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and burn them to prevent it from spreading to other conifers. But this doesn't always help.

It is best to treat affected trees with HOM. The consumption rate of the drug is 40 g / 10 l of water. This solution should be sprayed on the affected trees twice a season: in spring (in May) and in summer when the disease reappears. Since both schütte and rust are characteristic of all conifers, it is worthwhile to carry out preventive treatment of the rest of the conifers (all, without exception). It is carried out with the same HOM in the same dose, but only once in the spring.

In the absence of effect, it is necessary to shed the trunk circles of the affected trees with Fundazol. The consumption rate of the drug is 20 g / 10 l of water - a solution (0.2%) will be obtained, which is used to shed the near-stem circle of the affected tree once during the growing season. No need to spray trees with it, only the soil to destroy the infection in it.

Topsin-M is also used from Shutte: the consumption rate of the drug is 15 g / 10 l of water, this solution is consumed per 1 mature plant. Spraying is carried out once in the spring after the threat of night frost has passed.

Instead of HOM, you can purchase Bordeaux mixture. This is an old, but very effective and proven remedy, suitable for many cultures. It is not necessary to buy it.

homemade bordeaux mixture recipe

It's easy to cook it yourself. The purchased bag contains lime and copper sulfate. So, to prepare ten liters of a one percent solution, you need 100 g of lime and 100 g of vitriol.

Prepare it like this:

1. in glass or wooden utensils(in no case, not iron or plastic!) vitriol (copper sulfate) is bred. Up to five liters of water are added, in another container the same with lime;
2. Diluted vitriol is carefully poured into slaked lime;
3. Mixed. You should get a light blue liquid;
4. To understand if there is enough blue vitriol we poured, you need to take an iron object not covered with rust (for example, a knife) and lower it to the bottom of our liquid. The appearance of a red plaque means bust;
5. Fixing this is easy by adding lime. It is necessary to check, otherwise you can burn the plants.

With this working solution, preventive spraying can be carried out every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l / 100 m².

Outcome

Proper care and timely help will protect and cure your thuja from many possible diseases and pests. But it is also important to remember that the shedding and yellowing of the needles does not necessarily signal the appearance of some kind of disease.

Thuja often changes color and sheds needles at the end of the growing season. Appearance may indicate that it is dying. But in fact, it is just preparing for winter, and changing the color of the needles is just its defensive reaction.

You may be interested in information:

- thuja pests and methods of dealing with them;

Despite the fact that these cultures are plants that are unpretentious in terms of growing conditions, some deviations in care can lead to thuja disease.

Control measures will require some effort to save the decorative beauty.

The main cause of diseases can be a violation of the irrigation regime (especially high humidity).

Thuja and pests annoy, which should be dealt with in a timely manner.

Tui fungal diseases

Because of high humidity, as a rule, fungal diseases of thuja develop.

• The most dangerous is late blight. It captures the top layer of the root system, completely destroying it. From this, the bottom of the trunk becomes soft, the thuja itself acquires a grayish tint and fades.

• The cause of the disease can be called poor drainage (or its complete absence), which leads to stagnation of water at the roots.

• A rotten thuja cannot be cured - the tree should be completely removed, replacing the ground in this place. And here preventive measures should be taken by periodically watering the plant with fungicides.

• In early spring, you can see yellowed scales on the branches - this is the beginning of the lesion. brown fungus. If you do not immediately take action, the whole plant gradually dies.

• The soil depleted in mineral elements can provoke this disease. Apparently, when planting the thuja, fertilizers were not applied to the pit.

• Shoots affected by rot must be cut out immediately, preventing the disease from spreading further. Thuja should periodically pour limestone under the roots and feed it with fertilizers. Throughout growing season it is recommended to spray the trees every 2 weeks with a 2% solution of "Fundazol".

• Young thuja are often affected rust and shute. This is manifested by the darkening of the needles and its further fall. This disease is common to all conifers, so if there are other plants on the site, an “epidemic” may begin.

• It is difficult to name a specific reason that serves as an impetus for the development of these diseases - these fungi accompany coniferous crops for life.

• Starting in spring, all conifers growing on the site should be periodically treated with a solution HOM either " Bordeaux liquid". If the defeat nevertheless showed itself, then the near-trunk circles are processed " Fundazol". Once in the spring, as a preventive measure, you can spray the trees with the preparation " Topsin-M».

Tui pests

First, small yellow ulcers appear, gradually growing throughout the trunk. As soon as the defeat reaches more than 80%, the plant can be considered dead.

• Of the chemicals that need to be treated with a plant, it is recommended " Actellik», « Karbofos», « Rogor», « Antio».

• Can be used in pest control folk remedies: processing branches with a soap-alcohol solution, applying glue from caterpillars to the bark or wrapping the trunk with burlap.

Having found out what thuja diseases are and how to deal with them, it will be easier for gardeners to maintain their decorative plantings.

Tui pests and methods of getting rid of them

thuja aphid

These are gray-brown small insects living in a colony, similar to silver or white wax dust. If such pests have reached your thuja, then its needles will begin to turn yellow and fall off.

Fighting methods

The same insecticidal agents will help to save the thuja and stop the aphids as with the false shield. In addition, you can wash the affected areas with soapy water, covering the ground so that the soap does not reach the roots of the thuja. Such procedures should be done regularly every 7-10 days.

These two diseases are somewhat similar, so the treatment is the same. So, against thuya aphids and thuja false shields, trees can be sprayed with Fufanon insecticide. The norm of the drug is 10 ml / 10 l of water, the consumption of the working solution is up to 1.5 l / 10 m². Spraying with Fufanon is carried out from May to June, re-treating in the summer with extensive pest damage.

Aphids appear where there are ants. Check if there is an anthill on the site and have you noticed a large cluster of ants somewhere? The fact is that there is a food connection between aphids and ants. Ants feed on the secretions of aphids and protect them from predatory insects, as well as unfavorable conditions. weather conditions(for the winter, aphids move to anthills). If you kill the ants, the aphids will also disappear. For these purposes, you can use the drug Anteater. The application rate is 1 ml / 10 l of liquid, the consumption of the working solution is 10 l / 5 m². The solution is applied to the soil in places of accumulation of ants during the growing season.

spider mite

This pest is especially dangerous for trees that grow on dry soil. By the end of summer, the number of damage increases, since the tick can produce about six generations during this period.

You can recognize it by the fact that the thuja needles are entangled in cobwebs and covered with yellow spots, as a result, they crumble.

How to fight?

At the first manifestation of a spider mite on your thuja, spray it with infusions of dandelion, garlic or colloidal sulfur. With a large lesion, acaricides will help. To prevent the disease, you can spray the tree cold water. This will increase the humidity and repel the tick.

Moth moth

Small larvae (their size is 4 millimeters) of this moth gnaw through tree branches. As a result, they turn brown, and the shoots die off.

Treatment

If you see traces of such larvae on your tree, it is possible to prevent their further destructive action by simple pruning. It will also help to stop the thuja moth by treating the thuja at the end of June with means (twice with an interval of eight days) that contain pyrethroids. For example, Fumitox Antiklesch, Tornado Antiklesch, Mosquitol Antiklesch.

Gray larch leaf roller

These dark caterpillars wrap the arborvitae needles with cobwebs, making cocoons. Pests are located in the middle of cocoons. Thuja from this loses its decorative look and may die over time.

Remedies from a leaflet

To prevent the appearance of a caterpillar, you need to spray with one of these drugs: Fufanon, Decis Profi, Aktellik. The norm of the last drug is 15-20 ml / 10 liters of liquid. Consumption of working solution - 1 l/10 m². Spraying with Aktellik is carried out in May - early June, repeated spraying - in the summer with a large number of pests.

Click Beetles

These root pests look like thirteen mm black or brown beetles. At first they feed on thin roots, humus. When the larvae grow up, they begin to feed on thick roots. As a result, the tree weakens, its development stops, the needles dry up and fall off. Especially often this pest is found in low areas where moisture stands.

breeding beetle

From the spread of click beetles, drainage, deoxidation of the soil, and digging of the earth in the fall help well. You can also add preparations with diazonin to the soil. For example, "Kapkan", "Bazudin", "Zemlin".

bark beetle

These little bugs burrow through tree bark and lay their eggs. The hatched larvae make their way in the same way. The tree usually dies within a month.

Fight against bark beetle

Unfortunately, we have not yet come up with universal remedy control of this pest. And since outbreaks of new foci of bark beetle lesions are recorded every summer, preventive treatments with Clipper are necessary.

Weakened thuja also need to be fed and treated with a growth regulator, the best of which for conifers is Zircon. It will help the trees to endure stress and recover faster. Spraying with Zircon of all trees is carried out once in the middle of the growing season (June-July): 0.3 ml / 3 l of water. Accordingly, the working fluid will need 3 l / 100 m². It is also necessary to use complex fertilizers marked "for conifers". For example, Reasil (Reasil), Bona Forte.

Outcome

Note that the timely noticed infection of the tree will help you cure it faster and prevent pest damage to the rest of the thuja. You should carefully and regularly inspect them so as not to start the disease. Having correctly identified the pest, you should immediately begin to remove it using the methods described above.

You may be interested in the information.

Thuja (or “tree of life”) is a coniferous plant belonging to the Cypress family. Lush beauty immigrated to our personal plots from the east North America. Due to its structure and various colors, thuja is often used to decorate the landscape as a hedge. This evergreen quite unpretentious, however, he, like many other perennials, needs to be provided with thorough care in preparation for winter, during the autumn period.

Features of caring for thuja in the fall and preparing for winter - general tips and tricks

The quality of the autumn care for the thuja depends on how the conifer will endure the winter and will look like next spring.

So, the main measures to prepare the thuja for winter include the following:

• watering;
• top dressing (if necessary);
• treatment for diseases and pests (if there are concerns about their presence);
• sanitary pruning (mandatory cleaning of the crown from old yellowed and dried needles) and shaping haircut (if required);
• mulching and shelter for the winter (protection from snow and sunlight).

Video: caring for thujas in the summer-autumn period and preparing for winter

Watering

Regular watering it is necessary to provide a thuja growing in a region characterized by dry autumn. Before the upcoming frosts, watering should be especially plentiful ( water-charging irrigation): the roots will be saturated with moisture for a long time, a wet earthen ball will freeze longer, which will protect the rhizome from sub-zero temperatures, as a result, thuja will be more resistant to change temperature conditions in winter period. If it turned out to be autumn, abundant with rains, the coniferous tree is practically not watered additionally (except for the final moisture-charging irrigation).

top dressing

For a better wintering, it will not be superfluous to apply autumn fertilizer under the thuja, although if in the spring you already gave complex fertilizer prolonged action, then additional feeding is not necessary.

Worth knowing! Autumn fertilizer is called fertilizer, which contains a high content of phosphorus and potassium. You can purchase both a special fertilizer for conifers and a regular fertilizer marked "autumn".

Treatment for diseases and pests

In the autumn, when preparing the thuja for winter, it will be good to do preventive treatment of the conifer from diseases and pests before sending it for the winter.

Advice! It is desirable to carry out even 2 treatments: the first - from diseases and, accordingly, the second - from pests.

• From fungal diseases (in particular, from rust) -, (30 g per 10 liters - for treatment, 10 g per 10 liters - for prevention) or a special drug Hom or Abiga-peak (based on copper oxychloride), Acrobat MC.
• From pests (especially aphids) - Actellik, ordinary Fufanon or Fufanon-Nova, Rogor, Karbofos, Confidor, Decis (according to instructions).

Pruning thuja in autumn

As such autumn pruning thuja is not required for the winter. Another thing is that you should definitely clean the tree from the yellowed old needles and hold preventive pruning (cleaning), i.e. remove diseased or dry, dead branches with secateurs, cutting them to the very base.

If you form thuja(for example, with a ball), then in this case you need to regularly correct its shape and cut(cut branches that went "somewhere in the wrong place").

Note! The main rule for pruning thuja is to cut a little, but regularly (no more than 1/3 of the branch at a time). The bottom line is that if you miss the moment and the branch grows very strongly, then you will have to cut a lot and it will be easy to make a mistake, because of which a hole will appear in the crown, which will overgrow for a long time.

Important! Desirable do not cut thuja in the first year of planting: let it settle down in a new place, and next year begin crown formation.

Naturally, if you don’t cut the thuja at all, then it can become overgrown, because of which it will be poorly blown and illuminated inside due to excessive thickening, which will certainly lead to sad consequences in the form of fungal diseases. Therefore, periodically also need to perform thinning pruning, removing thickening branches.

Interesting! Thuya Smaragd independently acquires an almost perfect shape and does not need any haircut. But Tuya Brabant, for example, needs a regular haircut, without which her crown becomes loose and empty, in other words, the ephedra looks unsightly.

Concerning timing of pruning thuja, then best time — it's the end of spring - the beginning of summer when the buds have just blossomed and young shoots have appeared, or end of summer - beginning of autumn when the tree is already preparing for winter.

Advice! Pruning should only be done in dry weather. If you do this in the rain, then all kinds of diseases can get into open wounds.

Video: how to cut thuja autumn, spring or summer

What to do if the thuja turned yellow in the fall

Thuja needles may turn yellow in autumn natural cause- due to the loss of chlorophyll, a substance that provides nutrition to the needles. They turn yellow, dry up and die, and then new green needles appear in the same place. This normal natural life cycle , which occurs with thuja every 3-6 years.

Also at the end of autumn, thuja needles may turn yellow due to natural defensive reaction of the conifer to a cold snap. W then she will turn green again.

Moreover, this (yellowing due to stress) will definitely happen if the thuja does not have time to adapt to a new place when planted in early autumn or late summer.

In any case, whatever reason caused the yellowing and drying of the thuja needles, all affected (yellowing) parts must be mercilessly cut out. However, it is quite simple remove only dried "leaves" (needles), because the greenery will still grow on the branches. Don't leave yellow needles if you want to save the tree, otherwise they can be the perfect breeding ground for pathogenic fungi and pests!

Video: why Louis turned yellow in the fall

How to save thuja in winter: rules for preparing for winter and protecting thuja from snow and early spring sun

Do I need to cover the thuja for the winter

By nature, thuja is endowed with high frost resistance, therefore, it does not need a classic shelter for the winter, with the exception of only recently planted seedlings.

However, a certain winter protective shelter for thujas is still required, but for other reasons:

• from snow buildup(especially true for young plants);

young thuja(from one year to 4-5 years) tender enough, because of which they can easily be deformed under snow cover. In other words, when snow sticks to branches, they bend strongly and can simply break under the weight of snow masses.

Important! If you have winters very snowy, then and adult thujas are good at least to tie for the winter, especially if the plant several stems.

• for sunburn prevention(for young and adult conifers growing in the sun).

How to cover thuja for the winter

As we have already found out, first of all you need to take care of protecting the evergreen thuja crown, which can suffer from a lot of snow and bright sun in late winter and early spring.

However, before directly covering and protecting the thuja from snow and ultraviolet rays, it is very important to mulch the soil around the trunk circle. The mulch will help retain moisture (reduce evaporation) and protect the root system of still young conifers, in which it is not yet too well developed and can freeze out if the winter is very frosty and snowless.

Advice! As a mulch, you can use almost any loose material: peat, coniferous litter, conifer bark, compost, humus, sawdust, dry leaves.

The basic rules for sheltering thuja for the winter:

• In no case do not use cellophane or polyethylene film , since it does not allow air to pass through and the plant under it can be banned.
• For snow protection perfect fit nonwoven covering materials, which are good pass air.

But! Many special non-woven covering materials, breathable, for example, agrofibre, spunbond, pass along with him and ultra-violet rays! They can be covered from snow, but they can't protect from the sun, so the thuja under them will definitely get burns.

• To protect the thuja from the sun you can use roofing felt, gauze, kraft paper, cotton fabric white color(sheet, duvet cover), polypropylene bags, roofing felt, burlap, polymer mesh.

Video: preparing thuja for winter

How to keep thuja in a pot in winter

Coniferous trees up to two years of age are often grown in pots or containers. So, in order to keep the thuja in a pot until spring, it should be transferred to a bright and cool room, where the temperature ranges from +4 to +10 degrees (but not below zero), or cool dark basement(not higher than + 4-5 degrees). And first, the pot must be insulated with something so that the roots do not freeze. Alternatively, you can overlay the pot mineral wool or wrap in old track and spunbond, and close the tree itself on especially frosty days with lutrasil (or spunbond).

Important! Don't be afraid to freeze your thuja. At home, the likelihood that it will not make it to spring is very low: it is too dry and hot. But on a balcony (in an apartment) or an unheated pantry or basement (in a private house) - completely.

Advice! If you don't have a place better than a window sill, then better dig pots in autumn directly into the ground(for example, in a greenhouse or just in the garden), wrapping it with lutrasil (spunbond) on top. Then, in the spring, dig it out, put it in the shade for 2-3 weeks to adapt and.

Not very suitable conditions for keeping the thuja at home in the winter in a pot ...

In this way, autumn care behind a thuja will not cause difficulties even for the owner of this evergreen plant, farthest from gardening. So that after wintering the coniferous tree does not lose its decorative effect, it must be watered abundantly, fed as needed, treated for diseases and pests, cleaned and cut from yellowed and damaged branches. And also do not forget to mulch the soil in the trunk circle and properly cover for the winter = protect from snow and sun.

Video: how to prepare thuja for winter

In contact with

If in the fall you notice that the color of the needles of your favorite thuja has changed, become paler, yellowish, gray or even brown, then you need to understand the reasons that caused these changes. After all, if the disease was the cause, then in the spring the thuja can radically change its appearance not in better side or even die. Harsh winters and winters with constant temperature changes, frequent thaws and low rainfall can be detrimental to weakened plants, especially if they are weakened due to any disease.

When yellowing is normal

If the needles dry up "inside" the thuja, then most likely this is seasonal phenomenon, which is a variant of the norm. Coniferous trees and shrubs, as well as deciduous trees, change their needles over time. The old needles die off, opening access to the crown of light and air. Old branches are most often located inside the crown, on branches extending from the trunk and on the trunk itself. Dried branches are not touched in the fall, and in the spring they carefully clean the thuja with canvas mittens by hand or even using a Karcher. We still recommend that you clean the thuja manually, since any active mechanical impact on the crown of a coniferous plant can lead to microtrauma, and those, in turn, can become an open gate for all kinds of infections.

Some types of thuja, such as western thuja and folded thuja, change the overall color of the crown from bright green to yellow-green or even brownish-green closer to winter. There are varieties of thuja that do not change their color or change it barely noticeably. This is thuja Smaragd, Brabant (a kind of western thuja). Smaragdas, as a rule, do not change their color at all, remaining bright green throughout the winter.

In the spring, with the beginning of the growing season, when the soil thaws and the first juices begin to flow, the needles acquire their former color, becoming bright green again. In winter, many conifers change their color, for example, almost all types of pines. By spring, they become pale, yellowish. With the beginning of sap flow, they “come to life”, turn green. This is a defensive reaction of conifers to a possible defeat by active spring sun. Sunburn is sometimes also fatal to coniferous plants as well as severe snowless winters. Therefore, for newly planted conifers, we recommend making shelters for the winter to avoid sunburn in the spring.

Severe frosts can also lead to yellowing of the thuja. With frosts of thirty degrees and winters with little snow, frost cracks can form on the stems, from the side of these branches the needles turn yellow and die. Unfortunately, not a single plant is insured against frost (unless, of course, you arrange shelter every winter, and not just a year immediately after planting).

Perhaps this is the list of harmless reasons that cause a change in the color of thuja needles. Other causes are not so harmless and require careful analysis, proper diagnosis and timely treatment. Let's try to describe them in more detail.

Incorrect planting of the thuja

Often, it is errors in planting plants that cause their weakening and subsequent death. If the needles began to turn yellow, then it is necessary to exclude the most common cause - wrong fit. Landing in the poor sandy soil without laying automatic irrigation systems, it leads to the fact that moisture does not linger in the root layers of the soil, the thuja does not receive enough water, and gradually dries out.

On the contrary, planting plants in clayey, highly moistened soils often leads to the fact that root collars tui are in the water, root systems do not receive enough oxygen, the roots do not develop, even begin to rot.

The best conditions for planting thuja, as well as many ornamental plants These are well-drained and fertile soils.
A common mistake when planting is a strong deepening of the root collars of plants. At the same time, the thuja does not die immediately, it resists diseases for a long time, but in the end, it begins to turn yellow and dry out. As a rule, drying begins three to four years after planting. In appearance, a prosperous tree or shrub gradually begins to change its color, individual branches dry out, then the whole plant.

Too much frequent landing also adversely affects plant health. In pursuit of a quick result, many plant thuja too close to each other, thereby depriving the crowns of normal air access. Crowns are not ventilated, stagnation occurs.

Ephedra do not like a sharp change in growing conditions and react to sudden insolation with a sudden yellowing of the needles. This often happens when plants are transplanted from shady places to sunny ones or plants are cut around, suddenly opening the crown of the ephedra to the sun. In spruce, for example, in this case, not only does the color change to yellow and gray-green, but often there are sunburn on the stems. Thuja often reacts with a sharp change in color to straw yellow, they burn sharply.

Wrong care

Care mistakes also often lead to sad consequences. If the plants are not watered during dry periods, then this threatens their death. If excessive moisture is not removed during periods of prolonged rains or spring floods, the result may be the same.

needle burns

Very dangerous for conifers, including thuja, reagents used against ice and snow. In this case, the burn appears at the ends of the shoots. The tips of the branches change color to brown. These are chemical burns that are difficult to treat. Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer causes the same damage.

Tui do not respond well to the urine of dogs and cats. If dogs periodically “mark” plants, then the needles in the lower part of the crown begin to turn black and dry out.

Micronutrient deficiency
A change in the color of the crown due to a lack of trace elements is called chlorosis. Chlorosis can occur due to a lack of iron, potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen.

Diseases

A common cause of yellowing and drying out is brown and common schütte - a fungal disease that manifests itself in in large numbers dead needles. The disease manifests itself in full force in the spring, immediately after the snow melts. Shoots die off, whole branches can die off. The affected needles firmly adhere to the plant, do not fall off for a long time, thereby greatly spoiling the appearance of the plant.

Thuja reacts negatively to insect damage. The roots are often damaged by the wireworm, the needles by the false shield, the scale insect and the mining moth, the trunks by bark beetles, weevils.

Tui treatment

Therefore, the importance of timely diagnosis and ON-TIME treatment can not be overestimated.

If you notice a change in the color of the needles of plants, you do not need to wait for spring, contact the specialists immediately. Remember that under unfavorable circumstances (little snowy winters, frequent thaws in winter, frequent transitions “through zero”) can lead to irreversible consequences for the plant if it already shows mild signs of the disease in autumn. Many fungal diseases develop during low temperatures winter and early spring, during frequent thaws. Call and we will help you!

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