Fighting aphids folk methods on peach. The best means to combat aphids on peach

Growing peach on your own plot is not the easiest task. Not only can not every region be suitable in terms of climatic conditions, but also a variety of misfortunes will periodically try to leave the gardener without a crop. And to provide the tree healthy life, you need to know all the possible troubles in person. Controlling diseases and pests is an important step towards a healthy, bountiful harvest.

Diseases and pests of the peach tree

Peach is characterized by all the main stone fruit diseases - leaf curl, fruit rot (moniliosis), powdery mildew, cytosporosis and clasterosporosis. In addition, sometimes it is attacked by pests - aphids, eastern codling moth, fruit mites, fruit moths, weevil. The gardener needs to react in time and get rid of problems.

The peach tree is a good target for diseases and pests, so you should not sit back, even if a variety resistant to many adversities grows on the site.

Table: disease-resistant peach varieties

Photo gallery of peach diseases and pests

Peach diseases and their causes + photo

All diseases that can be encountered when caring for a peach are conventionally divided into three groups - diseases of the leaves, trunk and fruits. Of course, this does not mean that this or that ailment affects only the fruits or the trunk, but it manifests itself most clearly on a specific part of the tree.

leaf diseases

Clusterosporiasis

Clasterosporiasis is one of the most common and unpleasant diseases that affects almost the entire tree - leaves, buds, flowers, ovaries and shoots. The disease manifests itself most clearly and most noticeably on the leaves, on which brown spots with a dark red border appear - the foci of fungus damage. Damaged leaf tissue dies and falls out, leaving a hole. It is because of this that klesterosporiosis got its second name - perforated spotting.

Klyasterosporiosis is called perforated spotting, because. leaf spot disease

The fungus, which is the causative agent of the disease, penetrates into the tissues of the peach tree and forms a mycelium there, which gradually penetrates into the cells of the plant and causes their death. The problem is that hiding on the shoots, flower buds and affected branches, it easily survives the winter and begins to spread to healthy parts of the tree when positive temperatures occur. It is important here to detect the symptoms of the disease in time and rid the peach of those parts that have already suffered. That is why early spring pruning, which is carried out with the onset of warm weather, plays such an important role as both prevention and treatment. Sections after treatment are disinfected with a solution of lime with the addition of copper or iron sulphate.

In the process of treatment, such well-known drugs as Hom and Meteor are used. Spraying is carried out three times - during the swelling of the kidneys, as well as before and after flowering.

Curly

Leaf curl is also not a gift - in a wet, rainy and protracted spring, the disease gets every chance for successful development and reproduction, attacking the leaves first. As soon as the leaves bloom, it will already be possible to see on them, in addition to the usual green color also purple. A little later, a border of the same color will appear. After a week or a little more, a gray coating can already be seen on the back of the sheet. The disease affects the shoots, and after a while the leaves curl and fall off, leaving the branches bare. At the first frost, the shoots are doomed to death. A tree affected by curliness almost ceases to bear fruit, and those rare specimens that did appear have a damaged pericarp.

Curly - fungal disease, which is one of the most common

To avoid yield problems, diseased shoots should be pruned before the start of the sporulation period. In autumn, before the rains begin, the so-called blue treatment is carried out with preparations containing copper. In the spring, the preparations "Skor" and "Horus", as well as "Hom" are used. Looks like this simple circuit so: first, during the growing season, the peach is sprayed with copper oxychloride, and after 8-12 days, Horus or Skor is used.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most dangerous diseases affecting shoots, leaves and fruits. It is easy enough to calculate white coating, which at the initial stage can be erased with a finger, but then it coarsens, turns brown and turns into dark spots. Shoots touched by powdery mildew lag behind in development, are damaged and die. Thanks to its sharp suckers, the mycelium successfully sucks out all the nutrients it needs from the tree. The wind facilitates the easy movement of spores and spread to large territories. The disease is especially severe during drought.

Powdery mildew quickly spreads over the site and captures shoots, leaves and fruits

In order to prevent the disease from developing, the affected shoots, leaves and fruits (still belonging to the tree or already fallen) are removed. As a therapeutic measure, "Topsin" or "Topaz" is used at the end of flowering.

If insecticides are added to these drugs, the effectiveness of the treatment will increase.

trunk ailments

Cytosporosis

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that affects the bark of a tree. More precisely, the bast is a layer located between the bark and the wood, which acquires a dark brown color during illness. You can detect this disease by withering, drying tops of the shoots, as well as brown smudges and spots on the bark. From the tops of the shoots, cytosporosis descends, capturing the skeletal branches and trunk. After the defeat of the latter, the tree will be under serious threat.

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease, but unlike fruit rot or powdery mildew, it settles under the bark

Branches damaged by the disease are immediately removed. Shortening occurs to a length of 0.8 - 1.5 m, sometimes the entire skeletal branch is removed, but on condition that not a single millimeter of diseased bast remains below the cut point, otherwise cytosporosis will not stop. Cut parts of a tree, as well as dried trees, must be burned immediately or taken out as far as possible. The first option looks preferable, since the infection travels long distances without any problems, and there is no guarantee that after a while the disease will not return to your site.

Since cytosporosis primarily affects weakened trees, it is necessary to observe full complex agrotechnical measures, such as timely (and, most importantly, correct) pruning, regular watering, timely treatment of wounds, etc.

A good means of preventing and treating cytosporosis is 3% Bordeaux liquid (300 g blue vitriol and 400 grams of lime per 10 liters of water), used for spraying in early spring (before leafing) and autumn (during or after leaf fall).

Fruit diseases

Moniliosis

Fruit rot or moniliosis, monilial burn - all these are the names of one disease caused by the same fungus, which affects flowers, leaves and branches during flowering, and later fruits. The monilial burn got such a peculiar name, because the leaves and fruits affected by the scourge look like burnt ones. The disease manifests itself especially clearly on the fruits on which brown spots that deform them. These spots spread over the fruits, and light gray or gray pads of spores appear on them, forming concentric circles. The wind easily transfers spores to other trees, and if the weather is cool, damp, the disease spreads rapidly across the site, affecting almost all, without exception, fruit plants.

Moniliosis causes the fruits to rot on the branches up to their complete wrinkling and drying.

As a preventive measure, periodic pruning of the tree is carried out to prevent thickening of the crown. The parts of the plant found affected by moniliosis are removed. Prior to flowering, they are treated with the Chorus preparation. After flowering, "Topaz" is used, and after it - "Topsin". Thanks to this approach, not only the pathogen is destroyed, but also its carriers, which are oriental codling moths, geese, weevils and boucars.

Fallen fruits damaged by moniliosis are immediately collected and carried far beyond the site, and in the fall they are removed from the trees.

Table: peach diseases, treatment and prevention

Disease name	Remedy for treatment	Dosage	Multiplicity of treatments
Clusterosporiasis	Hom (copper oxychloride)	40 gr per 10 liters (2 - 5 liters per tree)	Triple treatment - during bud swelling, at the beginning and at the end of flowering
	Meteor	4 kg per hectare
	3% Bordeaux liquid		Treat in autumn after leaf fall
leaf curl	3% Bordeaux liquid	300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water	By sleeping kidneys
	2% Bordeaux liquid		By the opening buds
	1% Bordeaux liquid		On vegetative shoots
	Hom	40 gr per 10 l	During the growing season in combination with preparations "Horus" and "Skor"
	Horus	3.5 gr per 10 l
	Speed	2 ml per 10 liters of water (2 - 5 liters per tree)	8 - 12 days after the application of "Hom"
powdery mildew	Topsin	15 gr per 10 l	At the end of flowering
	Topaz	2 ml per 10 l	At the end of flowering
	Fundazol	10 gr per 10 l	In combination with preparations "Topsin" and "Topaz" First spraying before flowering
Cytosporosis	3% Bordeaux liquid	300 g of copper sulfate and 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water	Early spring (before leafing) and autumn during or after leaf fall
	Hom	40 gr per 10 l	During the growing season
fruit rot	Horus	2 - 3.5 gr per 10 l	Before flowering
	Topaz	2 ml per 10 l	After flowering
	Topsin	15 gr per 10 l	Two weeks after treatment with Topaz

Pests and their control

Aphid

Aphids are perhaps the most frequent intruder on peach trees. It settles on young shoots, sticking around them and sucking out the juices vital to the plant. The seedlings begin to hurt, dry, the leaves crumble. While the number of aphids is small - it is easy to crush it with gloved hands right on the spot, but if you show slowness, this pest will significantly increase its population, and then you will have to resort to potent pesticides, since weaker solutions will no longer have the desired effect.

Peach aphids can be green, orange, and yellow - the color changes, the essence remains

Weevils

Weevils damage buds, buds and flowers by gnawing out stamens, pistils and petals. Sometimes it spreads to young leaves. Small holes are created in the fruits for oviposition. They are carriers of the main fungal diseases of peach.

The surest action will be the chemical treatment of the tree before the buds swell. Good trapping belts are applied above the stem, removing damaged buds (these usually show a brown top) and removing exfoliating and dead bark. Whitewashing the trunk with lime also makes a good contribution to the fight against weevils.

Weevils damage buds and spread fungal diseases

Ticks

Ticks are known for their ability, like aphids, to suck out all the useful and nutritious substances from a tree. They successfully winter in the bark at the base of large branches and in the warm period are able to weaken the plant so much that its shoots stop developing, dry out, the yield decreases significantly, the tree stops bearing fruit, and the leaves lose color and fall off.

Regular peach pruning, keeping the trunk circle clean, whitewashing the trunk and installing trapping belts help to cope with the tick. But also greater effect achieved with the use of drugs such as "Fitoverm", "Neoron", "Apollo" and "Karate".

The fruit mite indiscriminately attacks any fruit trees, including peach

fruit moth

Fruit moth delivers the most trouble in the form of a caterpillar, which in the spring is taken for buds, and then for young shoots. Since the pest gnaws out their core, the shoots begin to wither and die off, the tree may shed its leaves. One caterpillar is capable of destroying 5-6 shoots, which is already significant damage. In adulthood, the caterpillars climb into dry leaves, bark or soil in the trunk circle.

Moth-damaged shoots are cut and burned. The same is done with carrion and root shoots. A good result is achieved with regular loosening of the soil and the imposition of trapping belts on the trunk and skeletal branches.

Fruit moth damages shoots, causing the tree to stop developing

Eastern codling moth

The eastern codling moth hibernates on damaged shoots, in cracks in the bark, and also under fallen leaves. Caterpillars feast on young shoots, small ovaries, and even peach pits that have not yet had time to harden. The codling moth, like aphids, is a carrier of various fungal diseases, including moniliosis, so you need to get rid of it immediately.

This is how peach fruits slightly damaged by the eastern codling moth look like

Table: pest control methods

Pest	Remedy for fighting	Dosage	Periodicity and frequency of treatments
Aphid	2% Bordeaux liquid	200 g of copper sulfate and 250 g of lime per 10 liters of water	Spray before winter
	1% Bordeaux liquid	100 g of copper sulfate and 150 g of lime per 10 liters of water	Treat before and after flowering
	Confidor	0.25 l per hectare	During bud formation
	Dandelion infusion	400 g of leaves and 200 g of stems with roots (collected during flowering) pour 10 liters of warm water. Infuse for two hours, strain and spray	During the growing season
Weevil	milk of lime for whitewashing	1.5 kg of freshly slaked lime per 10 l	Beginning of kidney swelling
	Fitoverm	2 ml per 10 l	During the growing season
	Fufanon	5 ml per 5 l (2 - 5 l per tree)	Spraying three times: green cone phase (beginning of bud break), end of flowering and ten days after it
Mite	colloidal sulfur	80 gr per 10 l	During the growing season from 1 to 6 treatments with a difference of one day
	Fitoverm	1.5 ml per 1 liter	During the growing season twice with a difference of two days
	Neoron	15 ml per 10 l (from 2 to 10 l per tree depending on age)	One treatment per season no later than 45 days before harvest
	Apollo	0.4 - 0.6 liters per hectare	Vegetation period, then at least 30 days before harvest
	Karate	5 ml per 10 l	During the growing season, two treatments with a difference of 20 days
fruit moth	Karbofos	30 gr per 10 l	During bud break
	Chlorophos	20 gr per 10 l	During bud break
Eastern codling moth	Benzophosphate	60 gr per 10 l	The treatment is carried out 3 times per season with a difference of 15 days between peach sprays, starting from the moment of spring emergence of butterflies and excluding flowering
	Chlorophos	20 gr per 10 l
	Rovikurt (25%)	10 gr per 10 l

A peach, as a fruit tree, is subject to the same diseases as an apple tree, pear, plum, and others, therefore, in some ways, measures to combat ailments in all cases turn out to be similar. The list of pests is somewhat different for peach, but in this case there are universal means which can be used for most fruit trees. By observing the indicated dosage and carrying out timely prevention, as well as acquiring varieties resistant to certain diseases and pests, you can avoid problems during cultivation and achieve a large harvest every year.

The most common pest on peach is the aphid, especially the large peach, black and green aphids. In the fight against aphids on peach in gardening, there are various methods.

In the article, we will consider agrotechnical, mechanical, chemical and biological methods of how to deal with aphids on peach. Signs of the appearance of aphids:

the accumulation of black, green or brown aphids are clearly visible on young shoots, plant buds, and especially on the lower part of the leaves;
leaves and buds are covered with honeydew, a sticky liquid secreted by aphids;
tops of shoots and infected leaves curl down, do not develop and dry up, buds do not open, and fruits do not develop;
gray-green fleas appear inside the twisted leaves.

Damage

Green aphids on peach damage young seedlings. Since their activity causes discoloration, wrinkling and random curling of the leaves at the top, the flowers fall off and dry out.

A large peach aphid sucks the juice from the bark and branches, if it is heavily infested, the bark will be wet and sticky, the upper leaves will tightly wrap up and turn red, and may even fall off ahead of time.

The black peach aphid populates the crown of trees in spring, and already at the beginning of summer it can fly to other crops, especially legumes. Since the black aphid colony on a peach consists of females, they multiply very quickly, which, in addition to the above harm, can lead to the appearance of black sooty fungus on the tree.

Agrotechnical and mechanical methods of control

Before treating a peach from aphids with various chemical agents, one must use such simple agrotechnical and mechanical methods:

weeding or cutting unwanted vegetation, especially perennial species weeds;
remove root shoots;
clean the lagging bark on boles and skeletal branches;
remove aphids on peach leaves with your hands or rinse with a strong jet of water from a hose;
invite natural enemies of aphids into the garden: ladybug, hoverfly, lacewing, wasps and small birds planting fragrant spices, nettle and green manure.

Chemical methods of dealing with aphids on peach

These methods consist in the selection of effective pesticides, which can be used to spray peach from aphids:

Before winter - 2% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Before and after flowering - with a solution of your choice: 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.8% thiozol 80 together with 0.12% fostiol H40, 0.15% vofatox 30, 0.15% dipterex, 0.1% sevinoma 85. Repeat in two weeks.
During the formation of buds - Confidor 0.25 l / ha.
At the first appearance, but only not when the fruits ripen - 0.2% solutions of Bi-58 or Dursban.
For a regular fight - 8 ml of Aktofit is diluted in a liter of water and 0.02% is added liquid soap, re-treatment is possible no earlier than after 15-20 days, it is better to carry out before the leaves begin to curl.
Against black aphids - 0.1% solution of thiophos or phosphamide, as well as nicotine sulfate and 0.2% solution of anabazine with laundry soap or lime.
For the destruction of overwintered aphids, before bud break, - 0.5% DNOC solution, can be done once every two years.

Biological methods of dealing with aphids on peach

There are less dangerous means than you can poison aphids on a peach - these are biological. Effective in the fight against aphids, decoctions and infusions of tomatoes, dandelion, bitter capsicum, garlic and onion peel.

Dandelion infusion: pour 400 g of leaves or 200 g of plants with roots into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 2 hours, strain and spray.
Garlic infusion: Grind 200-300 g of garlic through a garlic crusher or meat grinder, dilute in 10 liters of water, leave for 20 minutes, strain, spray with a fresh solution.
A decoction of onion peels: take 100-150 g of onion peels for 10 liters of water and insist for 4-5 days, strain the infusion, add 50 g of soap and immediately spray the trees.
Tomato decoction: Soak 2 kg of dry tops harvested in autumn in 10 liters of water for 30 minutes, then boil for the same time. Every 2 l of broth stir in a bucket of water and add 40 g of soap.

Of course, in order to get a more useful harvest, it is better to prevent the appearance of aphids on peach leaves using such preventive measures like bringing ashes under a tree and mineral fertilizers, which will increase resistance to peach aphids.

A small, almost invisible insect, aphid, can cause considerable damage to your garden. She does not bypass the side of the rose, feeding on the juices of the plant and practically destroying it. How to get rid of aphids on roses, we will tell further.	Daylilies - planting and care Daylilies are perennial plants with thin leaves and beautiful funnel-shaped flowers. Absolutely unpretentious and easy to get along with other plants, daylilies are a real decoration of the garden. Read more about growing - our article.
Sedum is a perennial succulent plant that can have shoots adjacent to the ground or upright. Some of its varieties produce enough beautiful flowers collected in dense inflorescences. We will talk about growing sedum on the site in our article.	Vesicle - planting and care The vesicle is a perennial deciduous shrub that is often used in areas in group plantings and as a hedge. Caring for him is quite simple. In our article, we will talk in more detail about the cultivation of the vesicle.

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The best means to combat aphids on peach

So, aphid is a small insect, no larger than 3 mm in size. It is worth highlighting that the most widespread aphid of the following species:

blood;
aphid large peach;
green;
and black.

As a rule, if an aphid has settled on a peach tree, then the gardener will see the following:

the bloody appearance of aphids is very visually visible, since individuals tend to accumulate;
if aphids attack, then dark dots will be visible on the back of the foliage;
peach buds will be covered with secretions of this insect;
the tops of the pagons may begin to dry out and then die off;
spots first appear on the leaves, then they dry and curl;
in the very thick of the tree you can see the so-called fleas of a green or grayish color.

If an aphid attacks, then the culture completely stops developing fully, begins to weaken, while the yield decreases several times. Furthermore, sick tree loses its resistance to frost.

What are the ways to fight

agrotechnical and mechanical methods;
fight with chemicals;
folk recipes.

Each of these methods can give good results. Moreover, experienced gardeners strongly recommend not to resort to drugs at first, chemical origin, and try to overcome the invasion with natural and available means.

Way of struggle: agrotechnical

As already described above, before arming yourself with a heavy arsenal and attacking uninvited guests, you can try several agricultural techniques that successfully help fight a small enemy, namely:

destroy all weeds growing around the peach;
cut the entire root thicket;
clean the remnants of the old bark, on the trunks and on the skeletal branches;
using a jet of water supplied from a hose, remove all aphids placed on the foliage;
plant green manure and herbs around the peach.

As a rule, these agricultural practices give a valid result. If it was not possible to solve the problem using these methods, then we arm ourselves with mechanical methods and proceed to the fight.

It is worth emphasizing that mechanical methods aphid control can only be used if the tree is relatively small. So, how to destroy aphids, ways:

knock down aphids with a broom;
destroy with a brush;
we tear off all the affected foliage and burn it behind the site.

Well, with the onset of autumn, we begin to dig the zone where peaches are planted. Then, sprinkle the near-trunk circle with ashes well and pour boiling water on top. These methods have the following properties:

Fighting with chemicals

If the above methods did not help, and precious time was lost, you should resort to heavy artillery in the form of insecticides. First of all, it is worth emphasizing that such drugs retain their toxic properties for 20 days. Therefore, in the case when the aphid attacked before the harvest itself, it is strictly forbidden to process with these means.

Of course, processing with chemicals is not desirable. But if it so happened that the army of the most dangerous insect was noticed too late, then only such means can save your crop.

Well, as for the name of the drugs, today there are a lot various means, among which are the following:

If aphids attack during bud formation, use Confidor.
In the event that aphids appeared during the formation of fruits, the Bi-58 solution will become indispensable. The only thing to keep in mind is that this tool is strictly forbidden to use during the ripening of peaches.
If the aphid of the black variety attacks, then Phosphamide will help the gardener.
Well, for the destruction of overwintered individuals, a remedy called DNOC solution is recommended.

At the same time, always remember one simple rule, it is not recommended to constantly process with the same tool.

Folk recipes to help

So, what are the ways to destroy aphids with improvised means:

Onion skin tincture

Then, the tightly sealed mixture is infused for two days and the peach is sprayed with the finished infusion. This procedure is repeated after two days. But as a rule, after the first spraying, the aphid dies or disappears from the tree.

Laundry soap

And third effective method control aphids called pepper platter. To do this, take a pack of red and black ground pepper and a pack of dry mustard. Everyone is well mixed, just do not forget to put on a mask and goggles in advance. The finished powder is poured with a bucket of water and everything is thoroughly stirred.

Then, the resulting solution is sprayed onto the tree. From such a tool, aphids will begin to die almost instantly.

The best remedy is prevention

In order not to look for options to combat this insect, regularly carry out preventive treatments in the front garden. To do this, use the following processing schedule:

after all the foliage has fallen, the peach culture is treated with Bordeaux mixture strictly according to the instructions;
before flowering, peach culture will need treatment with tizol;
after flowering, spray the tree with Bordeaux liquid.

It is worth noting that most gardeners are advised to keep a drug such as Actofita in a green medicine cabinet. It is mainly used together with laundry soap as emergency care during aphid attacks.

Conclusion

And another tip from experienced gardeners: in order for the fight against aphids to be effective, before choosing a specific remedy, evaluate the damage caused to these insects. In this case, you can choose the right tool and minimize losses.

prosadiogorod.ru

Aphid. How to get rid of aphids? Aphid control methods

Preventive actions

The fight against aphids in the garden is separate and carried out by other methods than when it comes to indoor plants. It is best to immediately apply chemicals that have proven themselves well.

Preparations for combating aphids on an apple tree:

"Nitrofen". This tool is strong, it kills even wintering larvae, it can save a tree from certain diseases. You need to use this tool until the foliage appears on the tree, otherwise, the greenery will be destroyed. It is necessary to breed 200 gr. funds in ten liters of water. Processing is carried out in dry weather in the absence of wind. The tree must be carefully sprayed.
"Kinmiks". This insecticide can be applied until the apple tree begins to bloom, that is, the appearance of leaves is not an obstacle to processing. The drug is designed to kill insects that feed on plant juices or gnaw on it. After treatment, the drug begins to act within an hour, and the protection lasts for several weeks.
"Karate". Another popular remedy for combating garden aphids. Compared to other drugs, it has a low consumption. Ten liters of solution is enough to process a hundred square meters of land.

Aphids in the greenhouse: how to get rid of

The fight against aphids in a greenhouse includes the use of a wide range of means: mechanical, chemical and even biological methods. The mechanical method is that the colony will need to be removed by hand. Of course, do not collect every aphid, but remove the affected buds, cut off the leaves. Trees and shrubs can be watered from a hose with water under strong pressure. Alternatively, you can make a soapy solution and treat the plants with it.

If aphids appear on cabbage or other vegetables, then you can try to resort to biological methods fight. They consist in planting plants or even insects on the site that will repel aphids. For example, an ordinary ladybug, which in nature feeds on aphid larvae. You can also pay attention to the lacewing, the larvae of the hoverfly fly.

From plants, aphids love wheatgrass and mallow, nasturtiums and poppies, also beans, thistles and even the usual sunflower. So, do not plant these plants near your greenhouse, this can attract aphids to places where their appearance is highly undesirable.

To find the best remedy for aphids, you have to try. Much depends on which plant is affected, how long the attack lasts. In the instructions for any aphid drug, you can find that it is an insecticide. It must be understood that these are quite strong drugs that are already used only in a neglected situation, when the moment is lost and there are too many aphids.

Common chemical means of dealing with aphids at home:

"Intavir";
"FAS";
"Karate" and other analogues.

When choosing a chemical agent for aphids, you need to pay attention so that it is odorless. When indoor plants are being processed, you can’t stay in the room where the work is going on for a long time. In order to destroy aphids, but not harm yourself, after spraying and other types of processing, the room must be ventilated for a long time.

Folk methods of struggle

Any folk remedy for aphids should be tested, and then, if it does not work, you can proceed to insecticide treatment. All the same, vegetable decoctions are much more humane and cause less harm to the plant itself and even to humans than various achievements. chemical industry.

Therefore, such important attention is paid to how to get rid of aphids. folk remedies. There are different approaches here, someone uses kerosene, and someone uses laundry soap. There are many herbs whose decoctions and infusions can be effective as a folk remedy for aphids. Consider the most popular options with good reviews Further.

Aphids - the fight with folk remedies:

Dilute some laundry soap in water room temperature, treat the affected areas by applying the solution to them with a brush.
Use kerosene, which is diluted with water in equal proportions. It is important to remember here that after using such a remedy, it will be necessary to wash it off the plant.
You can use infused tomato or marigold, geranium, celandine, tobacco or wormwood.
Very often, aphids are fought with the help of ashes from burnt firewood. They just take it and sprinkle it with ashes on the leaves damaged by aphids.
Regular crushed garlic helps in the fight against aphids. It will need to be diluted in water and the plant treated with this water. You can add additional laundry soap, ash to the solution.
Aphids do not like dampness and its colonies, especially if they are small, it will be easy to wash off with the pressure of plain water.
How dry agent, and also as a means for pollination, ash, tobacco or sulfur can be used.

Aphids, aphid control methods include, in addition to everything described, also a biological attack, which has already been mentioned in the section on greenhouses. You need to plant a colony of ladybugs on the plant or put a pot next to the anthill.

Aphid - species (type and information about it):

Bean aphid (A. fabae)

Such aphids are often found on beets and peppers, beans and dill. It can live on cucumbers, but for a short time and quickly dies. Signs of damage by a bean species do not differ from those that have already been described. The leaves curl, sticky dew appears, soon the green parts, if certain control measures are not taken, die off.

Large potato aphid (Macrosiphumeuphorbiae)

Peach aphid (Myzodespersicae)

Often appears on tobacco and vegetable crops, on the flowers that grow in closed ground and also on fruit trees. This species is widespread everywhere, it is distinguished by a bright green color and a larger body in comparison with other species.

Regardless of the species, the methods of dealing with aphids do not differ much. It is on them that the emphasis will be placed in the second part of this review material.

ukrflowers.info

Aphids - a thunderstorm of gardens and orchards

Very often on summer cottages aphids damage many trees and bushes. Thus causing irreparable damage to gardeners. This small insect harms not only garden plant but also indoor. You can even see it with the naked eye. Vegetable, fruit, berry and flower crops are damaged various types aphids. Often, many gardeners do not know how to cure already diseased plants. Let's figure out what kind of insects and how to deal with it?

Green rose aphid (Macrosiphum rosae) colony on a young rose shoot. © Lucis

Description of aphids

Aphids (Aphididae) are insects of the Hemiptera order, ranging in size from 0.5 to 2 mm. The body is egg-shaped, soft and easily crushed, the legs are long, but the insects move slowly. There are wingless and winged individuals. The wingless female is oblong-oval in shape, the mouth apparatus is long, thickened in front. Winged insects have two pairs of wings, they fly and infect other plants. The rapid reproduction of aphids is explained by the fact that one fertilization is enough for a wingless female to produce offspring up to 150 larvae 10-20 times every two weeks.

The adult aphid is a small green or black insect. In the middle of summer, wings grow in some individuals. Thus, pests move considerable distances to find new sources of food. Aphids live on buds, stems and the underside of leaves, on the tops of young shoots, preferring fattening branches (tops).

Aphids are an exceptionally large group of insects. According to the most conservative estimates, it unites about 4,000 species, of which almost a thousand live in Europe. Every year more and more new species are described.

Reproduction and air migration

Aphid lays eggs, some species are inherent in live birth. Most aphid species reproduce over several generations by parthenogenesis. A certain generation is born winged and heterosexual. In species that change hosts, this happens before the new plant is colonized or when the colony grows too fast and the overpopulation associated with this. Winged individuals are able to travel long distances and create new colonies in new places.

According to new research, the birth of winged aphids may also be triggered by special scents released by aphids when they are attacked by enemies such as ladybugs. These warning substances cause great unrest and increased movement in the colony. This creates the effect of overpopulation, which causes the rapid production of winged offspring.

A colony of aphids on cabbage. © Ed Cullen

Harm from aphids

The harm caused to plants by aphids is underestimated by many, but in vain. Aphids suck plant sap from stems and leaves, buds and buds. In the affected plant, the leaves are twisted, the buds and shoots are deformed, growth slows down, the fruits do not ripen. An affected weakened plant may not survive the winter. In addition to direct damage, aphids carry viral diseases, black soot fungus (black sooty dew) settles on the sugary secretions of aphids.

Aphids pierce the integument of the plant and suck out the juice. In places of mass bites, tissues are deformed and then die. Flowers on the affected peduncles do not develop, wither, barely opening. The peduncle itself quickly fades. Aphids, like mealybugs, root scale insects, whiteflies, leafhoppers, shitovki, false shields, suck out much more juice from the plant than they need to maintain vitality.

Excess moisture and carbohydrates are excreted from the body of aphids in the form of sugary secretions, which are called honeydew or honeydew. This sticky, sweet liquid coats the plant, making it difficult for it to breathe. Pad is a good substrate for the development of various fungi. Soot fungus, for example, can cover the leaf in a continuous layer, reducing the intensity of photosynthesis, which depresses already weakened plants.

A colony of aphids on mallow leaves. © esta_ahi

External signs of damage

Along with insects clearly visible to the naked eye, deformed tops of shoots, twisted leaves, as well as sweet secretions (honeydew) on leaves and shoots testify to the defeat of aphids. Subsequently, a soot fungus settles on these secretions. If you see ants running around the plant, be sure to check for aphids. As a rule, ants are attracted to honeydew, which is secreted by aphids.

Aphids have a symbiosis with ants. Some ants protect ("herd") aphids and receive sugar-containing secretions from them in return.

Aphids live in large groups on the underside of leaves, around growth points, on young shoots, buds, pedicels, feeding on plant sap. They are dangerous because they weaken the plant, reduce its resistance to diseases, and can also be carriers viral diseases.

In damaged plants, leaves curl and turn yellow, form nodules, buds do not develop or give ugly flowers. A sticky coating appears on mature leaves, in which the fungus can settle. Roses, carnations, fuchsias, many aroid, forcing bulbous crops are especially affected by aphids.

Many aphid species are able to spread plant diseases in the form of viruses and cause various anomalies in plants, such as galls and gall-like formations.

Ants guarding a colony of aphids. © Mathieu Lemieux

Aphid diet

Aphids can settle on almost any garden and indoor plants, it is important not to miss the moment and start the fight on time. Especially attractive for green aphids are fruit trees and shrubs, roses, chrysanthemums, and many indoor plants. For black - legumes, garden cornflower, etc.

Prevention

Carefully inspect all new plants brought into the house or bought for the garden, as well as bouquets of fresh flowers - they may already have aphids. When an enemy is detected, urgently take measures to combat it, otherwise it will occupy your plants and the fight will require disproportionately great efforts from you.

If we are talking about aphids in the garden: plant umbrella plants - carrots, dill, fennel, parsley and others. Thus, you will attract tireless aphid eaters - hoverflies to the garden. Arrange flower pots in the garden with wood shavings - earwigs can live in them, also big lovers of aphids for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Attract birds to the garden - arrange feeders, birdhouses for them, do not ruin the nests found in the garden, birds eat aphids in large quantities.

Lavender planted in a rose garden will scare away green aphid.

Thyme (savory), sown next to legumes, will protect them from black aphids.

Sow nasturtium in the near-stem circle of cherries - it will attract black aphids, reducing the load on the tree, and besides, it is easier to deal with aphids on nasturtium than on a tree.

Aphids piercing the stem of a plant. © Dougie Ritchie

Do not abuse chemicals unless absolutely necessary - along with pests, you destroy their enemies: hoverflies, earwigs, ladybugs, lacewings, riders, ground beetles and predatory bugs.

A balanced feeding of plants is very important - aphids prefer overfed or weak from lack nutrients plants. In addition to proper feeding, a strong healthy plant needs right choice places of growth, a sufficient amount of light and water, good air circulation - all this is also a pest prevention. It is important to loosen the soil under the plants, and it is better to mulch.

A colony of aphids on a yarrow stem. © Susan Noble

Ways to deal with aphids

Insecticides against aphids

Aphids are quite easily destroyed by insecticides. Insecticides against aphids are divided into preparations of contact, intestinal and systemic action.

Contact drugs penetrate the surface of the body of the insect and kill it. An example of such drugs is the drug: Fufanon (Karbofos)

Intestinal drugs enter digestive system insect, causing poisoning and death.

More often produce combined preparations of contact-intestinal action: Akarin, Aktellik, Bankol

Systemic preparations penetrate into all cells of the plant, including fruits, and are contained in it from 2 to 4 weeks, are not washed off by rain and watering. Systemic drugs have the longest waiting period, are convenient to use, but are the most dangerous. They must be used with caution. The most modern systemic drugs: Aktara, Biotlin, Tanrek.

ladybug eating aphids. © davidh-j

Folk remedies against aphids

Decoctions and infusions of herbs against aphids

Effective decoctions from herbs and crops, such as shield, wormwood, tansy, tobacco dust, yarrow, hot pepper, dandelion, garlic, onion, tomato tops, potato tops, mustard, rhubarb (from black aphids). 2-3-fold treatments are required with an interval of 7-10 days.

An infusion of garlic or onions is quite suitable: pour 30 grams of chopped garlic (onion) and 4 grams of laundry soap with a liter of water. And if you water indoor plant liter of warm water, in which dissolve 80 grams table salt, then you can get rid of both aphids and ticks. Spraying and watering should be carried out at least three times with a break of 10 days.

You can use an infusion of onion peel, tomato leaves. The treatment should be repeated 3 times with an interval of 8-10 days. With a strong infestation of aphids, small plants can be lowered into this solution, having previously covered the ground. You can also put fragrant pelargonium near the plant affected by aphids for 2-3 days, and the aphids will disappear.

Harmful insects have a negative attitude to the infusion of hot capsicum. 100 g of fresh fruits are poured with water and boiled for at least an hour in a liter sealed container. Then they insist for two days, the pepper is ground, and the solution is filtered. For spraying, the concentrate is diluted tenfold with water, a tablespoon of soap powder is added there.

Abundant watering liquid fertilizer from nettles sometimes allows you to expel aphids in a few days. Plants quickly assimilate this nutritious, strengthening mixture and, therefore, through a short time become more resistant to pests.

Celandine, collected during flowering (take the whole plant). 300-400 g of fresh or 100 g of dry ground mass must be infused in 1 liter of water for 24-36 hours or boiled for 30 minutes. It also helps against false shields and thrips.

Dandelion medicinal (300 g of crushed roots or 400 g of fresh leaves insist 1-2 hours in 10 liters of warm water (not higher than 40 degrees), filter and spray.

Tagetis (marigolds) at the time of flowering (fill 1/2 bucket with dry raw materials, pour 10 liters of warm water, leave for 2 days, filter and add 40 g of soap).

Other decoctions and infusions

Pour 100 g of dry citrus peels with 1 liter of warm water and leave for three days in a warm place. Then spray.

Tobacco, shag. 40 g of dry raw materials are infused in 1 liter of water for 2 days, filtered and another liter of water is added.

Also, when aphids appear, the plant is sprayed with a solution of tar soap (10 g per liter of water) or a settled and filtered decoction of wood ash, prepared as follows: 300 g of sifted ash is poured with boiling water and put on fire for 30 minutes. Before use, add 10 liters of water.

Wood ash. 2 cups of ash insist in 10 liters. water, add 50 gr. laundry soap shavings.

Manual assembly

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Peach aphid can harm more than 50 types of vegetables (for example, tomato, potato, pepper), green (parsley, lettuce, dill), flower-decorative (gerbera, freesia, tulip, chrysanthemum, gerbera) and fruit (lemon, peach) cultures. Crops are considered unfavorable for the development of the pest population: cucumber and beans.

Damage

Aphids feed on plant sap on leaves and young shoots. Feeding the pest leads to the loss of vitality of the host plant and can cause its death. With the development of a greenhouse aphid colony, the leaves of the plants first curl, then turn yellow and die, the flowers may fall off, the buds do not bloom. The pest carries about 100 viral diseases, among which mosaic viruses are the most harmful. Aphids secrete excess sugary compounds in the form of honeydew or, as it is also called, honeydew. In the presence of a large number sugary secretions on plants, soot fungus can develop on them. Covering plants, the fungus thereby interferes with the process of photosynthesis.

How to recognize peach aphids

Wingless female ovoid, about 2-2.5 mm long. The color of the covers may vary depending on the crop on which the pest develops and can beat: yellow-green, light green, pinkish. Eye color brown-red. Juice tubules are cylindrical, widened at the base, occupying a quarter of the body in length. The tail is finger-shaped, yellow, three times shorter than the tubules.

Larvae do not have white-pollinated spots on tergites.

The winged female is 2 mm long, has a black head, mid- and metathorax, and a yellow-green prothorax. On the dorsal side of the abdomen there is a sclerotized central black spot.

Eggs are oval, black with a sheen.

Winged form of greenhouse aphid

The life cycle of a pest

In closed ground, a non-full-cyclic form of the pest develops, that is, colonies are represented only by parthenogenetic ovoviviparous individuals, since full-cyclic development requires the presence of a peach as a second host plant. One wingless female is capable of producing about 20-60 heirs in a lifetime.

The optimal temperature for development is 24-25 ° C, however, the pest tolerates low temperatures and begins to multiply already at 5°C. The development of larvae takes about 20-30 days at a temperature of 5-10 ° C, as well as the average life expectancy of an adult. At 24°C, the development of the larva takes 6-7 days. With a reduction in the duration of daylight hours, winged female peach aphids appear.

Prevention and control measures

Biological control measures

Other control methods

Yellow glue traps are used to monitor winged forms of aphids and prevent the spread of the phytophage in the greenhouse.

So, aphid is a small insect, no larger than 3 mm in size. It is worth highlighting that the most widespread aphid of the following species:

blood;
aphid large peach;
green;
and black.

As a rule, if an aphid has settled on a peach tree, then the gardener will see the following:

the bloody appearance of aphids is very visually visible, since individuals tend to accumulate;
if aphids attack, then dark dots will be visible on the back of the foliage;
peach buds will be covered with secretions of this insect;
the tops of the pagons may begin to dry out and then die off;
spots first appear on the leaves, then they dry and curl;
in the very thick of the tree you can see the so-called fleas of a green or grayish color.

If an aphid attacks, then the culture completely stops developing fully, begins to weaken, while the yield decreases several times. Moreover, a diseased tree loses its resistance to frost.

What are the ways to fight

agrotechnical and mechanical methods;
fight with chemicals;
folk recipes.

Each of these methods can give good results. Moreover, experienced gardeners strongly recommend not to resort to drugs of chemical origin at first, but to try to overcome the invasion with natural and affordable means.