How to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands - step by step instructions, drawings and dimensions. Wooden workbench: design variations

Each master needs a comfortable workplace for working with wood or for finishing manipulations. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.

The device and purpose of the carpentry workbench

A workbench is a stable, massive desktop designed for processing various products using manual or mechanized tools. The larger the dimensions of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.

Typical workbench layout:

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is necessary to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.

Simple stationary workbench it is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It will be possible to use it for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.

Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight is about 30 kg and one vice. It is intended for work with medium-sized products and for minor repairs.

Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.

We draw up a workbench project

The working carpentry table should be made in such a size that it is convenient to work on it.

Height the table directly depends on the growth of the owner, who should be comfortable while standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, a workbench can be from 70-90 cm high.

Lenght and width workbench depends on the area of ​​​​the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.

Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.

Set workbench best by the window, but additional lighting is still needed. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.

folding table design can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench, you can make folding legs or an unscrewing tabletop.

Workbench with your own hands. Blueprints. Video instruction

A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard of your own house or cottage.

Base making

First of all, you should make a frame of their bars with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.

Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the whole structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.

To make the stationary structure even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. You can increase the stability of the carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with self-tapping screws between the top of the frame and the legs and are made of the same material as the table base.

We make a countertop with various fixtures

Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.

1. Boards with the help of metal corners are attached to three bars, which are located on the back of the tabletop. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
2. Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and covered with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.

At the end of the tabletop, a recess is made under vise. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed on the bottom of the workbench.

The vise is applied to their location, and the place for the holes is marked. A vise is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that their lips are flush with the surface of the table top.

Also, on a carpentry workbench, it is necessary to build stops that can be purchased or made by hand. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not fix parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.

Easy enough to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, it will be possible to securely fix parts of any size. Such stops are made of solid wood. You can make them just rectangular, expand upwards or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring”.

Under the pegs in the countertop, you can make holes or build it up with bars of the desired thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and close the bar on the other side. In order to fix any part, the nests should be located at a distance of half from the vice stroke from each other.

The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space for the installation of the desktop, then a collapsible carpentry workbench can be made.

Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement

The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that to connect the parts it is required use of bolted connections.

The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation it is easy to replace any parts. So, for example, every table loosens over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.

Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task at all. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, for which work will bring joy.

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal frame.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. A workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never buckle. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see sidebar in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, a jib U is placed under the cover (tabletop) from a wooden beam from 60x60 or a professional pipe from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the tabletop!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; corks from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fitting many times.

Garage workbench

It is impossible to make a workbench in the garage optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and lined with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting tabletop in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is still made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When a country house or other light wooden structure is still being built, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can quickly put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a dacha, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

All photos from the article

Carrying out carpentry work in his home, any amateur craftsman should have a convenient device for them. It will become a guarantee of comfort and safety of your activity, and also significantly intensifies it.

Our article is devoted to how to make a wood workbench on your own.

Typical desktop design

The carpenter's workbench, in fact, is a massive and extremely stable desktop, on which wooden blanks of various sizes are processed. The larger the fixture, the more heavy and dimensional elements on it can be processed.

At the same time, you can work on it with hand tools: a saw, a chisel, a brace, etc., as well as mechanical ones: an electric jigsaw, planer, drill, etc.

Layout of elements

The workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.

1. The working surface (tabletop, lid) is made of boards. They must be dry and have a thickness of at least 5 - 6 cm. The best option is to use impregnated drying oil: oak, hornbeam, beech. Otherwise, the cover will wear out quickly.
2. A vise is installed on the front side of the tabletop for fixing workpieces.

Note! If the workbench will be more than one meter long, it is best to hang a couple of different vices for processing small and large items. The larger vise can be made of wood, while the smaller ones can be made of metal.

1. Supports (legs) are usually made of soft rocks: linden, pine, maple, etc. They are mated with each other by longitudinally arranged slats. So the design gains strength and stability.
2. With fixation on supports in the space below the cover of the workbench, it is possible to place shelves, drawers or cabinets for tools that can be pulled out or fixed tightly.
3. On the front side of the tabletop, before you make a workbench for wood, you should drill holes for mounting wedges, clamps and other devices for fixing dimensional workpieces.
4. A recess should be made on the back of the cover, which is necessary for processing small parts.

Any economic man needs his own equipped workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In this case, a workbench will become a necessary element of the workplace, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.

In contact with

Classmates

Indeed, to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount and, in addition, choosing the right size for your room is a rather difficult task. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench with an accuracy of up to a centimeter.

What workbenches are

A workbench is a desktop on which the master performs manual work on the processing of wood, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, in the country and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and vices. In addition, containers are installed in workbenches for storing various tools and even documentation. By type of work, joinery, carpentry and locksmith workbenches are distinguished.

DIY workbench video:

Carpentry workbench

A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the benchtop and the benchtop. Podverstache looks like a rack (usually two), which are interconnected by wooden bars. The material of this table element is usually pine or other soft wood.

The workbench or lid is made of hardwood, such as oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know what additional devices you need to install on the countertop.

Note!

First of all, it should be a vice located in the front and used to fix parts.

In the back, you need to make a recess for storing small tools in it. On the edge of the workbench there are holes into which wooden chocks and metal combs are inserted. A standard workbench is suitable mainly for manual work, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench with a lot of holes for stops.

locksmith workbench

The locksmith's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has a metal frame, on which a wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet is laid. The lid is edged with a three-sided bead and, in most cases, a bench vise is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high shock loads, including sledgehammers.

The material is chosen at will, but the most popular MDF is galvanized, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, this countertop is easy to clean from dirt. The locksmith's workbench is equipped with several retractable drawers for folding tools.

carpentry workbench

Another type of such structures is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions that are significantly larger than the previous two options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpenter's workbench. It has a cutout in the form of a triangle, for fixing the board with wedges, and is used during the processing of its edges.

Making a construction workbench

Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame of bars, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and a drawer (a connecting element that holds the structure together). It is desirable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. The installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. We carry out the final fastening with the help of clamps.

Worktop for workbench

It is worth recalling that the manufacture of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at hand at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it. Below we give a drawing of the table top, top view.

If the countertop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid, during subsequent work, dust clogging there. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be processed with a grinder and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters in your hands.

Installing a vice and creating stops

After we have installed the countertop, we need to mount a vise on them. To do this, a recess must be cut out on the work surface so that a vertical plate can be placed in the same plane with the table top. We put the vise in the place where they will stand in the future, it is desirable that this is not a corner, and we make a basting for drilling. Then fasten with nuts.

Note!

Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself.

Then we advise you to make them rectangular in shape with the ability to adjust in height. It is desirable to make holes for stops for a length of 50% of the vise stroke. In this situation, you can fix different workpieces well. A video instruction for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.

wooden workbench

Making a locksmith's workbench

Let's look at how you can make a locksmith workbench with your own hands.

1. Determine the height of the future table. For each person, it can be different, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision, you need to focus only on yourself.
2. Do not forget that the drawings of the locksmith's workbench, drawn by you, will be useful for faster and better assembly.
3. For a locksmith's workbench, the frame is best welded from a profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
4. To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to put spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, in which you can later put the tool, paint and varnish liquids or other necessary items.
5. For stability of the structure, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from shaking while working.
6. Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize if possible. This will greatly increase its strength.
7. If you want your workbench to be equipped with drawers, then place skids under the upper bars, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have a storage space for small parts, screws and nails.

Folding workbench

There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and metalwork. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient in the absence of extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait for the next job. In addition, it can be transferred to the country when folded. Such a workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench and a folding table. It is usually made smaller than a stationary table.

DIY workbench video:

In contact with

See inaccuracies, incomplete or incorrect information? Do you know how to make an article better?

Would you like to suggest photos for publication on a topic?

Please help us make the site better! Leave a message and your contacts in the comments - we will contact you and together we will make the publication better!

The workbench is an indispensable attribute of any carpentry workshop. It is a desktop used for tooling workpieces, storing tools, materials, drawings and accessories.

In this article, we will look at the design and dimensions of workbenches, offer an overview of the most popular factory models and present step-by-step instructions, following which you can make a homemade carpentry workbench.

1 Arrangement and design of carpentry workbenches

As for a blacksmith, the main working tool is the anvil, so in the carpentry workshop, the main working element is the workbench. Such a desktop is universal, it simultaneously acts as a place for cutting, processing and assembling wood parts, storing working tools and fixtures.

The basic part of the design of any workbench, no matter how many operations will be performed on it, is a regular hardwood countertop (beech and oak are best). The thickness of the tabletop should be 60-70 mm, while a longitudinal groove is cut in the back along its entire length for storing small tools. Large fixtures are stored in the workbench - a shelf under the table top.

On the carpentry workbench, there must be a vice that is used to fix the workpieces being processed. The functionality of the table is greatly expanded by the holes for installing clamps, which are drilled along the edge of the inner contour of the tabletop.

The total height of the structure must be selected based on the height of the master, usually it varies between 70-80 cm. The width and length of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workshop or garage, for a single desktop, the optimal length is 2 meters, the width is around 90 cm.

A stationary table can weigh up to 100 kilograms. If you plan to make a folding workbench, then you will need to take care of facilitating it by using less thick wood. The folding design implies the possibility of unscrewing the tabletop from the legs, while the legs themselves can be collapsible or telescopic.

In the workshop, it is best to place the workbench near the window, which will give the workplace natural light during the daytime. The presence of artificial lighting is mandatory, and several sockets must be placed near the countertop to connect power tools.

1.1 Material selection and assembly

For the manufacture of the frame and legs, a planed beam 100 * 70 mm in size is well suited, for a tabletop it is best to take planed oak or beech boards 4-5 cm thick. A cheaper option is a chipboard sheet tabletop, but it will last less. Remember that the thicker the boards are used, the heavier and more stable the carpentry workbench will be, which will positively affect the convenience of work.

Fasteners are selected based on whether the table is stationary (nails and screws are used) or prefabricated (bolts and nuts). From a power tool for installation work, you will need a drill, a grinder and a screwdriver, a grinder will also not be superfluous, but you can get by with an ordinary planer .

A do-it-yourself carpentry workbench is done in two stages - assembling the frame and mounting the tabletop. When assembling the base, you need to try to get the most rigid frame possible, this can be achieved by placing horizontal jumpers between the legs (at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor), which will later serve as a supporting element for mounting shelves.

You can connect the frame bars to each other by gluing into the “thorn-groove” system, but it is most convenient to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. You can increase the reliability of the structure by rigidly screwing one of the horizontal jumpers to the wall, however, this solution is applicable only in the manufacture of a stationary workbench.

Having finished with the base, you can proceed to the assembly of the second part - the countertops. If the work surface consists of several boards, they should be joined together as carefully as possible so that moisture and dust do not accumulate in the cracks. The boards are connected on 3 bars (side and central) located under the tabletop. The dimensions of the countertop should be such that its contours extend beyond the base by 5-10 cm. Upon completion of the assembly, the countertop is polished and covered with drying oil, it is easiest to fix it on the base with steel corners.

You need to fix the vise on the workbench using M12 bolts and nuts, while it is first necessary to cut holes for the bolt heads into the tabletops. You can place the vise in any place convenient for you, but not in the corner, as it can break off under heavy load.

The device of the carpentry workbench also implies the presence of stops, which can be purchased ready-made and fastened with bolts, or you can do it yourself. Holes are cut out under the stops in the front of the tabletop, in which wooden blocks, machined to size, are placed. For a more secure fixation, they can be made in the form of pegs expanding towards the top.

1.2 Homemade workbench (video)

2 Choosing a factory-made workbench

If there is no opportunity to make a homemade desktop workbench, it makes sense to pay attention to factory-made products. In the budget price category, the best choice would be the Unipro 16900u desktop, which can be bought for less than 3 thousand rubles.

Unipro 16900u is an excellent metal workbench that is well suited for home amateur use. The working table has dimensions of 520 * 300 mm, which allows processing workpieces up to 265 mm wide. On the surface of the table top there is a protractor, an inch and a metric scale, and sliding holders for workpieces are also provided.

The Unipro 16900u model is designed for a total load of up to 100 kg, while the weight of the structure itself is 8 kg. With its compactness, the table is quite stable, its only drawback is the complete bolts, which are made of soft metal. Owner reviews indicate that it is very easy to break the bolt cap with a bat, so immediately after purchase it makes sense to replace the bolts with better ones.

If you need a professional workbench, we recommend that you pay attention to the Master Cut series from Wolfcraft (Germany). The line includes metal tables, for which the manufacturer gives a guarantee for a period of 10 years, which indicates their highest quality.

Wolfcraft offers the following models of carpentry workbenches:

• Wolfcraft Master Cut 1500 - working area 78 * 50 cm, height 86 cm, can withstand a load of 200 kg. The price is 24 thousand rubles.
• Wolfcraft Master 700 - differs in height adjustable within 78-95 cm and a smaller table (68 * 39 cm). Designed for a load of up to 150 kg, the cost is 17 thousand.
• Wolfcraft Master Cut 200 is the most affordable model in the line of professional equipment (price is 7 thousand). The tabletop for the workbench has dimensions of 30 * 44 cm, height - 80 cm. This is an excellent student table, which can be considered as a universal workbench for household use.

Also in the assortment of the German company are carpentry workbenches with tool storage boxes - Wolfcraft Workshop. Their working surface is made of solid beech 30 mm thick and covered with a sheet of galvanized steel. A characteristic feature of the Workshop series is modularity - the client gets the opportunity to independently choose the configuration of the storage compartment by combining the shelves and drawers of different sizes offered in the catalog at his discretion.

The total load that the Workshop system can withstand is 600 kg, while the maximum weight per box should not exceed 600 kg. The cost of such equipment directly depends on its configuration, prices start at 40 thousand rubles.