Object shooting. Photographing items

Subject photography is one of the activities of Moscow photographers registered on the YouDo service. Contact our performers if you need high-quality product images at a low cost.

Experienced specialists carry out shooting of objects with departure to the specified addresses or in photo studios. Using modern photographic equipment, the masters will take pictures that will best emphasize the advantageous features of the goods (high quality materials, bright colors, etc.) Our performers order photography for the following objects:

• Jewelry
• furniture
• clothes (fur coats, hats, etc.)

Yuda-registered specialists have the necessary professional equipment for high-quality photography. After agreeing on all the details, the photographer you have chosen will take over the assignment. Photo editing will be included in the price of the service. Pictures will be of high quality, regardless of the complexity of the shooting.

Professional help for Yudu performers

Before starting work, the photographer will find out the purpose of the photos - this is necessary so that the finished pictures correspond to your business task. Specialists registered on Yuda take photos for different sites:

• printed and electronic product catalogs
• online shopping
• restaurants, cafes, etc.

To create high-quality photographs, the masters select a background that emphasizes the advantages of the product, choose a shooting point. Masters require modern professional equipment:

• tripod
• lens with optimal focal length
• professional camera
• lighting
• photo boxes, special tables for subject photo shoots

Professional photographers are experienced in creating images of various subjects. The price of the work will depend on the volume and complexity of the task.

Before ordering the services of a specialist, look through his portfolio with examples of the best work - this will help you get an idea of ​​​​the qualifications of a specialist. Also, customer reviews posted in the personal profiles of the performers will help with this. Discuss important details of cooperation in the internal chat:

• shooting rates for product catalog, menu, exhibition
• minimum order amount
• scope of services, etc.

Specialists with experience in studio and location filming in Moscow can be found on the YouDo website in the shortest possible time.

Benefits of cooperation with Yudu performers

Photographers registered on the service are professional in their tasks. Important features of working with YouDo specialists:

• convenient time for photography
• quality result
• low prices

You can order the departure of the performer to any address around the clock. Specialists will promptly respond to your order on any day of the week.

Prices for subject photography are made up of the following factors:

• shooting duration
• specifics of photographed objects
• number of shots taken
• volume of artistic retouching, etc.

The profiles of YouDo performers indicate these and other factors that affect the final price of services. Ask questions to the photographer directly if you do not find the information you need on the personal page.

Choose the artist that best suits your requirements by viewing the price lists of professionals on the Yudu website. Having studied the price lists, you will orient yourself in the offers and quickly find professionals who provide services at the lowest prices.

Leave a request in any convenient way:

• for all specialists registered on the service who are professionally engaged in studio and location photography (for this, fill out the feedback form on this page or call the specified phone number)
• ask for help from one of your favorite performers in Moscow, having previously studied his portfolio

You can order the help of experienced specialists, as well as find out how much professional photo processing costs, at any time.

Your chosen specialist will take high-quality pictures, regardless of the complexity of the task. When shooting on location or in a photo studio, the performer equips a place to work, selects a suitable background, and installs lighting fixtures. The specialist will create an image of the subject that will be most attractive to the target audience.

Specialists have extensive experience in the creation and digital processing of images. Ready shots will look harmoniously in the online store catalog, booklet or menu. Thanks to the experienced performer Yuda, product photography on location or in the studio will be professional and quite affordable.

An online store that would like to stop inviting third-party photographers for catalog subject photography will have to independently master the basics of subject photography for websites.

For them, I have compiled a kind of instruction, with the help of which it will be possible for even a person who is not very knowledgeable in photography to make a catalog subject shooting on the website of an online store.

Have you read? Well then let's go!

Step 1.

Refer to your camera manual for instructions on how to adjust the following settings:

shutter speed

Aperture

Light sensitivity (ISO)

white balance

Focus point selection (if provided by design).

Unfortunately, in this matter, camera manufacturers are simply rare ingenuity, offering original solutions on almost every new camera. I shot with 6 different cameras. And there was not a single case that the control was the same on two machines.

In addition, before shooting, you will need to make several desirable settings, which then you can not change (they are not supported by all cameras; therefore, if you do not know how to make these settings, it's okay, especially since they are not critical).

Turn off your camera or lens stabilizer;

Turn on single-frame focus mode;

Make sure the auto focus mode is working;

Turn off the built-in flash;

Turn off dynamic range expansion mode.

Step2.

Set the camera on a tripod.

Step3.

Choose an appropriate lens focal length. It should be in the range of 50-100 mm in 35 mm equivalent. But in principle, it is enough just to set the ZOOM somewhere in the middle position.

Step4.

Turn on all the lights and set the correct white balance if necessary. Most photos actually do a great job with this on auto. Therefore, if you do not have serious complaints about the color reproduction of the camera, you can safely not worry about this topic. If you don’t like something, you still have to adjust the balance. In this case, remember that the adjustment will only be valid in the light in which it was made. Even an elementary movement of the device may lead to the need to re-determine the balance. It is done like this (I describe the principle, but in practice it can be implemented differently on different cameras). Photograph a white background in full frame. And in some way described in the instructions, tell the camera that it is he, this frame, that will be the standard of white.

Step5.

If you are shooting on a stage, ensure that the background is white. The general principle was described in the article Catalog shooting for online stores: how to shoot a subject for websites and catalogs. Now let's talk about how to adjust the exposure.

This word is used to denote a set of settings responsible for the brightness of the image. There are three such settings, and each of them, in addition to brightness, affects some other parameters.

Excerpt

The first of these is exposure.

It is not difficult to regulate it, but there is one point that is confusing. Shutter speed is how long the shutter of the camera opens at the moment of shooting. The longer it is open, the more light hits the sensors and, accordingly, the brighter the picture. The confusion lies here. In most cases, shutter opening time (and hence shutter speed) is measured in fractions of a second: 1/60, 1/125, etc. This shutter speed is set by photographers in the vast majority of cases. Therefore, not only among photographers in everyday speech, but even among some camera manufacturers, when talking about shutter speed, it is customary to miss the fact that this is a fraction. They name only one denominator: shutter speed 125, shutter speed 60. But the trouble is that sometimes you still have to leave the shutter open for a few seconds. Therefore, the words "shutter speed 15" can mean both a shutter speed of 1/15 seconds and a shutter speed of 15 seconds. In colloquial speech, there will be no problems - you can always explain in words. But what if 15 is indicated in the camera settings?

In order not to get confused, it is important to know which shutter speed notation system is used on your camera. There may be only two. You can find out which one is used by you by looking at the instructions.

1 option

Shutter speeds shorter than one second are indicated by simple numbers - 30, 60, 125. In order not to confuse them with shutter speeds longer than one second, some kind of conventional sign is placed next to the latter - an asterisk, one or two apostrophes, etc. What exactly - again, you need to look according to instructions.

If you have just such a designation, then when adjusting the exposure, you should be guided by the following rule: to make the photo lighter, you need to increase the numbers with an apostrophe or an asterisk, and vice versa, decrease the numbers without asterisks. Moreover, any exposure with an asterisk is always “lighter” than any exposure without an asterisk.

Option 2

Exposure shorter than one second is indicated by fractions - 1/30, 1/60, 1/125. And the shutter speed is longer than a second - by whole numbers. In this case, in order to make the photo brighter, you need to set the shutter speed with a lower denominator value (that is, the number that is under the fraction sign or to the right of it); if the shutter speed is indicated by a number, then a brighter frame will be obtained at a shutter speed indicated by a large number. A "no shot" exposure is always "lighter" than any shot exposure.

Attention!

In this case, you need to know a couple of nuances.

If you are shooting with flash

If you're shooting with a flash, you can't set the shutter speed faster ("darker") than a certain level. This level is indicated for each camera. It's called "Synchronization Speed". It is very easy to see that you have climbed beyond the threshold value - when shooting with flash, you will get a half-black frame. If this happens, do not throw away the camera - everything is in order with it. Just turn the shutter speed towards lightening. Usually the threshold values ​​are 160 (i.e. 1/160) or 200 (1/200). As already mentioned, this value depends on the camera and is set by its manufacturer.

When shooting handheld

Second. I'm assuming you'll be shooting from a tripod. If, nevertheless, not - remember, you can not make the shutter speed longer (that is, change it towards lightening) of a certain level. If you overdo it, you will most likely end up with blurry frames. On many compact cameras, crossing this threshold will cause a warning signal to appear on the screen (which one - again, you need to look in the instructions: it will be called “Unsharp Frame Warning” or something similar. Usually information about this option is contained in the instructions section " exposure"). If it lights up (and usually also blinks) on the screen, change the shutter speed in the direction of "darkening" until the warning disappears. If there is no such warning, this limit can be calculated. You can read more about how to do this in the article Sharp photography - how to do it.

Exposure limits

In any case, I would not recommend climbing beyond the zone where excerpts with asterisks or integers instead of fractions begin. If you get to this level and the frame is still dark, try changing the other two settings that control the light.

Diaphragm

With a diaphragm, everything is much simpler. It is indicated by numbers from 1 to 16, 22, 32, etc. - the extreme value depends on the lens or camera. The higher the aperture, the darker the frame, the lower the lighter. And everything would be very good if not for one "but" - this parameter is closely related to several other characteristics that determine the quality of the image. Therefore, without going into details, I will simply recommend that you always keep it in the range from 4 to 11.

ISO

ISO is ISO sensitivity. It is measured in multiples of 10, from 100 (on some cameras from 50 or from 200) and sometimes up to almost limitless values. The logic is also simple - the higher the ISO, the brighter the frame. But even here it was not without a catch. With an increase in ISO, noise quickly begins to grow - something like strong graininess, which at extreme values ​​\u200b\u200bcan practically spoil the photo. Moreover, the high level of noise is one of the main disadvantages of inexpensive cameras. But that shouldn't scare you too much. Photos for the website of the online store are made very small. And when the image size is reduced, the noise disappears. To make a 450x300 frame noisy, you need to try hard. How? And set ISO 25000. Noises are guaranteed. If you want to avoid them, I would not recommend raising ISO above 6400.

How to set up the camera

Now - how to understand in which case what installation to do. Recommendations are:

Step 1

Finally put your camera on a tripod! Put? So that's great. Let's move on.

Step2

If the camera is on a tripod, you can fearlessly shift the shutter speed to the “bright” side. Moreover, if you also shoot with constant light, then there will be no restrictions on the other, “dark”, side. Thus, shutter speed becomes one of the most “free” parameters that you can adjust to suit your needs. What can not be said about the diaphragm. It is desirable to keep it in the range that was indicated above (4-11), and the higher the value it receives within this range, the better. ISO is a different story. On the one hand, the smaller it is, the less noise, but at the same time, it is not so critical to increase it during catalog shooting for an online store. Therefore, if necessary, ISO can be shifted up (until visible noise (graininess) appears on the reduced photo, or a pronounced deterioration in the quality of the photo appears (it becomes not sharp and “loose” - the result of the built-in noise reduction of the camera).

Based on all this, I would advise you to start setting up your camera by setting the aperture.

Step3.

Then I propose a simple and unhurried way to set up the camera by trial and error. Start by setting your camera screen to maximum brightness. In addition, on most cameras you can turn on the photo display mode with highlighting overexposed and underexposed areas - in this mode, if the photo has too bright or too dark areas, they will flash in black or some other color. Then set the aperture value to 8. Then set the shutter speed to 20 (1/20). ISO - let it be 100. Look at the screen (if you do not use a flash) or take a picture and then look at the screen anyway (this is if you do use it). Dark? Light?

But the histogram is not a simple enough tool. Therefore, for those who do not get comfortable with it, I would still suggest learning how to determine the brightness on the screen of your camera. To do this, you need to set its glow to maximum power, take a few pictures that seem bright enough to you, and then display them on the computer screen. If the photos on the computer will look as bright as on the camera screen, the screen can be trusted. If they turn out to be darker, make the exposure brighter and ensure that the photo turns out normal on the computer. Try to remember how such a photograph looks on the camera screen. And later, when setting the exposure, achieve the same effect ....

…So, look at the screen. Let's say that with such an exposure, the photo turned out to be very dark. Change the shutter speed towards the light. Up to 4 (1/4). Still dark? Increase ISO. Until the photo is bright enough. At the same time, make sure that there are no highlights on the subject itself (so that it does not blink with black light when the overexposed areas detection mode is on). As soon as they appear, reduce the brightness in any convenient way by one step - for example, reduce the ISO a little. Lighting the background, on the contrary, is welcome - for catalog shooting on the website of an online store, a white background is just what you should strive for.

This article describes the basic principles of product photography necessary to achieve a professional level. The article (in English version) was published for stock photographers on the website of the Dreamstime photo bank.

Lighting plays an important role in capturing objects. There are two main types of shooting: on an isolated background (uniform, often white background) and on a natural background (table, interior, other environment). Lighting conditions for each of these types of shooting can be very different, both using a single light source and complex schemes involving several light sources and different backgrounds are possible.

We will focus on the first type of photography, namely, shooting subjects against an isolated background, since this is the easiest, most effective and cheapest way to get acquainted with this direction in photography.

Isolated objects can be illuminated with both strong ambient light (the object has little to no shadows or minimally visible shadows) or direct light (the object can have deep shadows and the background remains white).

For the first option, there are no specific lighting schemes, the more diffused light sources are used, the better. Below are some tips that you can use when shooting isolated subjects. Setting the light can be very simple: a white cardboard box with a diffused light source attached to it from above (medium or large softbox, the light falls on the object from above), the flash can also be reflected into the ceiling. Light staging can also be tricky: multiple lights on stands plus light panels.

Most of the devices for still photography can be made by yourself. There is nothing complicated in making a light panel: you will need organic glass, a metal or wooden frame, or a cardboard box, the top of which needs to be cut out, leaving only its edges. Plexiglas is placed on top of such a base, and a light source is placed inside. To understand the principle of creating a panel, pay attention to how it looks in its original form:

Of the professional installations for shooting objects, subject tables are most often used:

…and lightcubes:

Lightcube can also be made from improvised materials:

The direction of light is chosen depending on the subject and need. A good photo can be obtained with one light source, the principle “the more the better” does not work here. Light is needed in order to give the subject an appropriate look in the photo.

Simple lighting schemes:

Regardless of what you are using - a table or a light cube, the main light source (key light) should fall from the side of the camera, from above.

If the task is to shoot objects without shadows, it is best to use a light cube with two light sources. You can also use a backlight, one source of which should be located under the object, provided that the surface for the object is transparent (plexiglass), and another source should be placed behind the object: it will outline the contours of the object and brighten the shadows formed by the main light source. Backlight also creates an interesting reflection on the surface where the subject is placed, if that surface is reflective.

Another option is a light bar on which the subject is placed on top and one light source above the subject - it is best to use a softbox, the larger its size the better.

A more complex lighting scheme may look like this: the main light sources (two) are placed on the sides of the camera at 70 degrees (the position can be changed depending on the needs of the photographer). If you are shooting subjects in a room with white walls, the light from these sources can be bounced off the walls of the room towards the walls or into the corners of the room to create a more diffused light. If you don't have a flash that can be placed under a transparent table, a white sheet of paper can be used instead, but make sure that the light reflected from the walls reaches this surface.

Lighting

Lighting equipment is an important choice. Either studio flashes/heads or constant light (incandescent or fluorescent) can be used. However, mixing different types of light is not recommended because they have different light temperatures and therefore different white balance. If you are using multiple incandescent bulbs, make sure they are at the same Kelvin temperature before shooting.

Softboxes are a great replacement for lightcubes and allow you to use fewer light sources, which is why every photographer should have them. Softboxes can be used to capture subjects against isolated backgrounds as well as subjects in natural surroundings.

Kinds of light

Regardless of the type of product shooting: whether shooting against an isolated background or in a natural environment, there are several types of light, each of which is used in specific conditions.

The key light is the main light source that outlines the shape of the object and sets the main direction of the light.

The fill light highlights the shadows that are left by the main light, reduces contrast and softens the overall lighting - without a sharp transition between light and shadow. Most often, a softbox is used for this type of light.

Backlight is placed behind the object, while the object is between the camera and the light source. Used to highlight the outline of an object.

Background light is used to highlight the background, allows you to separate the object from it.

We present to your attention the translation of Bray Simon's article on the first steps to product photography at home.
Photography of goods and products, at first glance, seems to be a fairly simple type of shooting. I recently asked a friend of mine who works in e-commerce how he works with product photos and it completely changed my mind.

His task is to optimize the online store to attract potential buyers and high-quality product photography - great attention is paid. He suggested that I try to shoot myself.

Concept and preparation

Step 1

The first step was deciding what to photograph. I remembered that my friend was doing work for an online fashion shoe store, and I just had a pair of new sneakers that I hadn't had time to get out of the box yet. Therefore, by taking pictures of shoes, I could get good feedback from him in order to evaluate the result of my work from the point of view of the customer.
In addition, I wanted to work with something modern and stylish to show my work to potential clients.

Step 2

Having decided that I would photograph sneakers, I considered it appropriate to familiarize myself with existing photographs. At the same time, paying attention to exactly those pictures that would interest me in terms of buying the items depicted in them.
I found several different studio shots, but they didn't impress me. After that, I set out to photograph all the sides, details and logos of the subject of my shooting.
Because when I was looking for those shots, I realized that the client wants to see as many photos as possible.

Location, lighting, setting.

Shooting, in a way, was a test for me. And one of the goals is to understand if I can get a professional result in a limited home space. The kitchen table was chosen as the shooting location.

Step 1

The first thing I did was move the massive wooden dining table against the white wall.
The texture of the wood, the contrast of the wood and the white wall added depth and interest without being distracting. Simple and stylish.

Step 2

There is not much natural light in my kitchen, only a small window at the end of the room and a large one to the right. In addition, the building opposite the window - limited the light entering it. However, the natural light was well distributed and provided a good base.
I did not use additional artificial light from ceiling lights. Firstly, it created shadows, and secondly, halogen and old incandescent lamps create different temperatures, which would add to the complexity of setting the white balance for me.

Step 3

However, natural light was not enough to produce more or less professional-quality shots.
In order to achieve sufficient illumination, I used my trusty flash and after a couple of experiments, I found that the light reflected from the ceiling was able to correctly illuminate the object.

I couldn't shoot the flash directly at the subject, because that created shadows, giving unnecessary reflected light from the wall on the left. So I placed it vertically, which allowed me to create a bright and balanced image with diffused light bounced off the ceiling.

I also used a small gold reflector mounted on the side to accentuate the details and add a warm tone to the suede on the sneakers. In addition, some of the natural light from the window fell on the reflector, adding it to the illumination of the subject.

Settings

I set my aperture priority to f/6.3 to ensure that everything in the foreground is in focus and the background is slightly blurred. As a result of the aperture setting, after several test shots, the shutter speed was set to 1/160 and I set ISO 400.
Flash set to +2 and recording in RAW format so that white balance can be adjusted later.

Shooting

Step 1

Since I hadn't photographed shoes before, I decided to take the most natural shots, without too much creativity, in order to better present them to the buyer. After all, the buyer is interested in the product itself, and not my creativity.

I started shooting from different angles to see what would be the best result.

The high angle photo looked good, but not quite as it should have been.

The smaller shooting angle shown here looked more natural and better reflected my idea of ​​such a photograph.

Step 2

With the settings, lighting, and shooting angle determined, I got to work, photographing one shoe first, continuing to experiment with light and shooting angles to get the best result.

To add some depth to the image and to allow the eye to move over it, I took a shot of the boot, positioning it at a slight angle.

Shoes are rarely photographed from the back, but in this case I did not want to miss even such important details as the blue flecks on the sole.

I lifted the shoe up a bit to get the right angle and show it full size.

The manufacturer, during the manufacture, paid a lot of attention to the design, so I considered it my duty to display all the smallest details.

Not the most important image, but a nice little thing that the buyer will see

One more element to complete the picture. After all, the fact that the shoes have a special logo that speaks of the 25th anniversary of this line of shoes may be important to someone.

Photographing a shoe insole is actually more difficult than it looks because of the cast shadow, but after a few attempts, I increased the flash angle and got the result I wanted.

Photo processing

Despite the fact that I shot in good conditions, I still improved some details of the photos. Made the tone warmer, and in order to draw attention to the center of the image, I added small vignettes around the edges of each photo and cropped the unused space.

In addition, I adjusted the white balance and slightly increased the saturation of colors and contrast, for a more spectacular result.

final product

The end of the photo session was a general shot, which is able to show the maximum amount of information about the product.
In fact, it is he who will serve to attract the attention of the buyer. And the rest of the pictures are an addition, revealing other features and characteristics of the product in as much detail as possible.

Conclusion

So you've met my first product shoot, given the limited space and equipment, I'm very pleased with my progress.
Product photography is interesting because it can potentially serve as a good addition to earnings. Thus, you can not only spend time on your hobby, but also make money on it.

The results of your work can attract a buyer and help make a choice in the direction of this product, there are hundreds of online stores that need high-quality and professional product photography.

If you are going to open an online store, you will definitely need high-quality images of the products offered to attract customers. It is best, of course, to entrust this task to a professional photographer with extensive experience in product photography, but not everyone has such a financial opportunity. If you need to stay within a limited budget when taking photos, or if you are passionate about photography from the beginning, why not try taking professional shots yourself? Follow these tips and make your dream of a professional photo shoot a reality!

Let there be light

Natural light is the key to the success of any photograph. As a rule, it is easiest to achieve the best results during daylight shooting. It is important not only the total amount of light, but also its uniform distribution. For optimal distribution of light, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the meaning of the concepts of "shadow" and "penumbra".

A shadow is formed when the size of an object exceeds the size of the light source. Therefore, penumbra is formed when the light source is larger than the object being photographed. To obtain a qualitative result, it is desirable to strive for the formation of a penumbra effect.

In the photo below, you can see how diffuse (diffuse) light contributes to an even distribution of illumination over the surface of the object, creating a "softer" image. To avoid the formation of a dense shadow, use a diffuse filter: wrap the flash window with white tape or a white bag. With this design, the surface of the object will be evenly and softly lit and will not reflect a bright light source.

Infinitely white background

In product photography, a pure white background is often preferred, as it helps the viewer's eye to easily focus on the object being photographed. The white background creates the illusion of infinity, where a calming white light takes the place of the horizon. To create a white background at home, place a piece of white paper or a piece of fabric so that the main part lies on the table, and the edge gently curves upwards, leaning on the back of a chair or some kind of box. The illusion of an endless white background will help to put the photographed object in the spotlight.

An unexpected look at things

Nobody knows your product better than you. At the same time, a photo shoot is a great opportunity to see the object being photographed in a new light, which may surprise even you. Try to shoot your product from unusual angles, shoot close-ups, and constantly look for unique angles. Emphasize different angles of the object so that the image conveys the "story" of the product. You never know which angle will give the most impact, so try different angles.

Use a tripod and a timer

The slightest camera shake may cause the picture to be blurry and blurry. Moreover, the smaller the distance between the camera and the subject, the greater the amount of blur. A tripod will help keep the camera steady for a sharper and better photo. Even the simplest and most inexpensive tripod will help achieve the desired result. You can also use the camera's built-in timer to prevent camera shake and maximize image clarity.

Give the right sense of scale

To increase the recognition of the product in the photo, it is desirable to give visitors the right sense of scale. Include a familiar object in the frame, in comparison with which, the user can easily determine the size of your product. For example, if you're selling a miniature doll, you can take a picture of it next to a regular pencil to give a clear idea of ​​its size.

Create a natural setting

Try to place the subject in natural conditions for him. This will help the potential buyer visualize your product in their daily life. Additional items can also help highlight the product's selling points. For example, if you're selling a watch, take a picture of the watch on your wrist. If you are photographing a gift book, place it on the coffee table next to a small fruit bowl. For shooting jewelry or clothing in a natural setting, it is advisable to take at least one shot of the item on the model. Thus, a potential buyer can mentally try on the item on himself, and you will get the opportunity to emphasize the characteristics of your target audience.

"Available in green, brown and blue"

If the product is available in different colors, show it to customers in all its glory! In many online stores, the product is presented in a single copy with the inscription "also available in the colors: blue, red and purple." Combining different colors of products in one photo will give the image a richer and livelier character and help emphasize the attractiveness of the product. As the saying goes, one picture is better than a thousand words.

Do not delete pictures from the camera

Do not rush to criticize your pictures. Be patient and download all the photos from the photo shoot to your computer, because they look completely different on a large screen. This way you can pick out the best shots and weed out the worst ones.

It's all about the details

If you want to emphasize one or another detail of the product, you will need a function for shooting close-ups. This mode is called "macro" and in most modern cameras it is indicated by a flower icon that resembles a tulip. The macro function is often used when photographing small objects, such as jewelry or flowers. It gives the image a high depth of field and changes the scale perspective. In this way, the background remains blurred, which makes many photos more interesting.

Professional advice: If the "macro" mode is not enough to shoot a really miniature part, use a special extension tube. This professional technique will help focus the lens on the smallest details.