How to fold a brick stove in the house. The simplest oven: from improvised means, brick without mortar and mortar

The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it’s good if central heating is connected to the house. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by crackling firewood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”. In this article, we will consider the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the schemes and all the materials and tools necessary during the process of laying. You just have to repeat all the described processes correctly, and you will become the owner of a solid home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of what type of oven will fit perfectly into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and already starting from the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of furnaces are relative to the type of buildings.

Furnace in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very solid foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on the partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of heating and cooking type bricks of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or a variant with a bread machine.
Classical Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but does not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
Furnace in a country house. An ideal option for a country house would be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.
The stove in the cottage or in the country. A cottage and a summer residence imply a visit only during a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the furnace structure, folded according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
The furnace for the house with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick stove-heater with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.
Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but they are equally used only for cooking, therefore they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast-iron cauldrons, etc.

Barbecue hob with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.

Baker's advice. When deciding on the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, one must consider how resistant it will be to the effects of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the life of the furnace. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For furnaces, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the furnace will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated solid brick oven will slowly cool down, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but higher than M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth buying a denser brick.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of brick quality. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. Hollow facing bricks have the best frost resistance indicators, while the inner part of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after a long downtime of the furnace. Products silicate, pressed, cast by the method of slip casting, unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

The fireclay brick, made in accordance with GOST, can withstand up to 1350 degrees. From such a brick, you can build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For laying the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark patches, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable for the furnace vault. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are operated only at a humidity of less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker bricks or ceramic refractory bricks.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

if you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbled into crumbs, discard the batch;
if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, sonorous, long sound;
the edges of a good brick are even, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file

GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS OF GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND DIMENSIONS. Download file

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is not correct, the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from river fine-grained sifted sand (grains of sand maximum 1.5 mm each) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before kneading. Soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to make several test mixing solutions to determine the desired proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to mix the sand thoroughly, adding it in several steps.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it well, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth planks. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A dried ball of good quality will not crumple when pressed against it.

How much water to pour? Again we make test batches and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trace:

if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
if almost instantly swam, - an excess of moisture;
if the trace is clear, and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the furnace.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, streaky stains remain on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the stains are patterned.

Note! For mixing the masonry mixture, it is desirable to use soft water. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the degree of strength of the solution.

The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on the bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the furnace is guaranteed to stand for a hundred years.

Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal parts of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying the furnace

Clay mortar for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney is not used. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with the preparation, testing and kneading of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray refractory mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, it is necessary to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. By setting the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required number of bricks. Brick red solid unary has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
including mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two square meters of brickwork, 122 or 113 solid red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the furnace wall thickness is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How is a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace:

the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
the number found is multiplied by 0.8 (for heaters) or 0.65 (for appliances with a heating shield).

For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven with dimensions of 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pieces, round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is considered separately. Its height and design are accepted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Chimneys”), which will be detailed below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We consider: 4x56 = 224 pcs. For the otter, cutting and fluff, add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to sum the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by compiling or taking into work the existing ordering scheme, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, gives recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the cost of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you want to end up with a perfect brick oven that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the choice of furnace equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Stove location selection

So, after you have decided on the type of furnace, determined the area of \u200b\u200bthe furnace structure, and also selected building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a place for installing the furnace.

Typically, the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall - this saves precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, at the same time being in several neighboring rooms at once with its different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna heater near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate efficiently (provided that the exhaust and supply vents are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the furnace, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:

Heating furnaces, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for the production and acceptance of work

Stone and furnace works. Downloads pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A furnace made of bricks has a large specific gravity, therefore, without a reliable foundation, the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, piled, columnar, laid out of blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the base of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.

Gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow base.
If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone cushion, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
In permafrost zones, a pile-screw base is equipped, paying special attention to the thermal insulation of piles.
On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have a minimum thickness or be absent altogether.
Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.

Consider the method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We accept the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the indents regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2 The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled horizontally as much as possible. We pour a ten-centimeter layer of small broken bricks, rubble stone or rubble. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3 We prepare a liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill it with an embankment.

combine 10 cm layers of crushed stone backfill with cement fill. This option is acceptable for bases of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;
install the reinforcing cage and pour it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture is compacted during pouring with a deep vibrator or a metal bar. The top point of the pour should be 15 cm below the level of the finished floor;
pour a concrete reinforced slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls from silicate or red brick, and pour the inside with concrete with backfill (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

The first and third versions of the bases are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5 We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks around the edges, halves - inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontality, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly flush with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain on the street all winter and have been repeatedly wet and frozen. Such products can quickly collapse, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We cover the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but there is a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so there will be warm water even the next morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will heat up a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick, hot.

The height of the furnace will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.

During the construction of the furnace (the chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:

269 red bricks;
63 refractory bricks ShA-8;
cast-iron furnace door with dimensions of 0.21x0.25 m;
Stove door - example
door for blower 0.14x0.25 m;
two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
grate 0.38x0.25 m;
two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;
oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
one valve for the "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
one valve for the chimney, size 0.13x0.25 m;
pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.

the key in brickwork is the construction seam. It should be uniform for each row, carefully smeared. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and eliminate the leakage of smoke from the fuel chamber. Follow the process with the utmost care;
before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container with water and lower the bricks for 5-10 minutes in water. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. Wet brick after drying eliminates the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in the water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

The first row is laid out of red brick. In total, you will need 24 whole and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, check the horizontal position along the sides and axes of the masonry with a meter level. Check with a tape measure for squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber mallet. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and an ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks whole, we cut four more with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Wet the brick before cutting and fix it securely. We comply with safety regulations!!!

Cutting a brick with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut a brick

Video - Sawing an oven brick with a grinder

We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the cut (cut off) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the inner surfaces of the channels and the firebox with clay.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it from the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.

We fix the door in the same row, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of bars for twisting from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and the resulting wire twists are passed between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing the oven door - photo

Video - How to attach the wire to the door

Video - How to fix the oven door blower

Clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is using metal strips or plates that are widened at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to carve grooves on the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked by a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more accurately and accurately, chamfer the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you can only lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, trimming and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. For the entire row, 16 bricks are required. For the channel, we immediately put a door of 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.

For the fifth row, we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. Bricks are laid with the beveled side up. We cut off two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in yellow on the diagram. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger than it so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (bevels) is covered with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise laying the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, slope towards the stove door.

We close the cleaning door with one brick.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. The brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, is cut obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of steel 8 mm thick. The back of the cabinet will be in the fuel chamber. The door of the closet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out laying according to the ordering schemes. For work, we take seven bricks of red and fireclay.

For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, by the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the furnace door. The whole row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 fireclay hewn with a wedge.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Close the door and back of the oven. We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make squeezing, as shown in the diagram, we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay the hob 51x34 cm, we do not use the solution.

We install the valve in the near vertical channel. To install a metal element, we make slots in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. Chamotte is no longer used.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks over the niche obliquely to make a castle floor. We also cut the brick obliquely over the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.

We block the furnace completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. We cut another brick obliquely above the slab. Consumption - 16 pcs.

From 17 and a half bricks we make a second overlap, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.

With dressing we put the second row of the pipe.

Video - Description of the construction of the furnace

The inner surfaces of the stove should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the masonry process, the protruding clay must be cleaned off or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel into the furnace to slightly warm the walls. The next day, we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. However, the doors are not closed. When there are no wet marks left on the walls, and condensate on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove in the bath

Video - Drying oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it can be checked by opening the valves, then bringing a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the furnace, then there is a draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that wet pipes will have slightly weaker traction.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks immediately become noticeable. A faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and cement, cement-lime or just lime mortar is used for masonry, while the brick is chosen to be of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the bath in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately repair them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold the oven with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

No private house is complete without a traditional brick heating and cooking stove. And although today many houses are equipped with gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to abandon the brick oven, as it gives a special warmth - the warmth of the hearth, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by acquiring firewood.

The desire to make redevelopment in the house, including the transfer of the heating and cooking stove, can often rest on the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to fold the oven with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of furnaces, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private houses:

heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
cooking(the oven is exclusively for cooking);
Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

The device of the furnace and its properties

After reviewing the sketches and designs of brick ovens, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to its internal structure. The device of the heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.

The internal design of the heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the appliance itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in the corner or against the wall.

The main structural elements of the heating and cooking furnace:

Shantsy (heat-air channels);
Ash pan (or blower);
grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
Under (slope to the grate);
combustion chamber;
Burnout (chimney);
The vault of the firebox (separates the combustion zone from the afterburning zone in the combustion chamber);
Air vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
outer wall;
Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber with the chimney);
overlap;
Chimney;
Indent (the space between the chimney and the stove);
Smoke dampers;
Heat dissipating walls.

The heat output of the furnace is determined by the amount of heat energy released by the furnace per hour, and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to store heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different stoves have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of the walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its device

A Russian brick oven is installed on the foundation, since its device is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a sub-stove used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is melted. The stove is closed with a vault-trough, on which the filling is poured on a solution of clay. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design, which differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short time, the Russian stove accumulates heat and is able to give it away for 24 hours.

In order for the Russian stove not to consume excessive amounts of fuel, not to smoke and not to cool down in a matter of hours, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions that the scheme includes when installing it. The bricks that form the interior of the oven are hewn and polished so that the walls inside the hail are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or a bakery and a firebox (crucible). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when installing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes after cooking should languish in the cooking chamber for a long time. It is not possible to achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing dishes of Russian cuisine using a familiar hob or electric oven.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel of the simplest design, which in its efficiency surpasses the devices of smoke channels of other stoves.

Do-it-yourself Russian oven device (video)

Design choice

The choice of the type of furnace depends on the conditions of its operation:

Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the device of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first warmed up, then heat transfer begins.
The furnace is heating. For a house in the mountains or a summer house where permanent residence is not planned, a fireplace will be enough. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up the room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up in the cold season.

A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest construction is assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on the edge). In order to give it strength - a frame made of metal corners is used. A massive oven requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also needs its own foundation.

Determining size and power

The level of heat transfer of the heating and cooking stove must exactly fulfill the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace determines its power.

Furnace device. Where to begin?

The laying of any furnace cannot be started without a project or drawing, which should include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the chimney outlet without disturbing the supporting elements of the structure. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The scheme or project of the future furnace is compiled on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove on your own, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the furnace project is approved, it is possible to prepare for its laying.

To fold the oven with your own hands, you must have on hand:

Stove-maker's hammer (trowel);
Master OK;
Building level and plumb lines;
measuring tape;
Cement-sand mortar;
Hand power tools (hammer drill, grinder, etc.);
Red brick;
Refractory brick (fired);
Facing brick;
Mortar for masonry of clay and sand;
Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
Furnace fittings and appliances.

Do-it-yourself oven laying. All stages

Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.

The scheme of this process includes the following points:

Foundation arrangement. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a battlefield. The foundation is not used for all furnace structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive furnace, you cannot do without its construction.

In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and in case of skew, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed the overall dimensions of the furnace by at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with two rows of fired bricks on cement mortar to the floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the construction of the entire furnace will depend on it. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing, as a material for which ordinary roofing felt or roofing material can be used, the material is laid in two layers.

Furnace lining. The first row is laid out on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, a mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air comes out. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and correctly laid on the mortar with a trowel tapped on it for leveling. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

To check how correctly the corner brick is laid, it should be checked with a building level horizontally and plumb lines on both sides vertically.

The laying of subsequent bricks is carried out in an identical way, the only difference is that the vertical seams are filled with mortar during the laying process. Each subsequent row should be laid with an offset of half a brick for dressing the seams. During the masonry, fittings are installed (the door of the blower and the combustion chamber, the grate, the plates). Openings for fittings and oven appliances must be made slightly larger than the elements themselves, taking into account the difference in the linear expansion of metal elements and bricks.

Formation of a chimney. The process of laying the pipe is not much different from the laying of the furnace itself. When passing the attic floor, it is necessary to observe the fire distance (38 cm) from the rafter system and other wooden elements to the inner wall of the pipe. If there is no desire to brick the outer part of the chimney that rises above the roof, you can install a pipe made of asbestos or metal.

Do-it-yourself brick furnace (video)

Conclusion

The formation of useful skills in the field of furnace business is not an easy task, like laying a furnace with your own hands. It is important to have the right approach to the process of building a brick oven, observing exactly the dimensional ratio of the device project and the finished product.

Examples of brick ovens (photo)

Stove heating is not going to become obsolete at all. Wood-burning brick stoves continue to be built not only by the owners of village houses, but also by owners of large country cottages. Another question is how much it costs to hire a stove-maker to build and buy the necessary materials. The only way to save money is to fold a brick oven with your own hands, having studied the construction technology according to the schemes - the orders presented later in the article. Of course, the construction of a Russian or two-bell stove with a stove bench is beyond the power of a beginner, but you will be able to overcome a heat source of a simple design.

Projects of simple brick ovens

The first thing to consider is to choose a home heater design that can meet your heating needs. We offer 3 options for simple designs, proven in the work of many years of practice:

channel-type heating stove, the so-called Dutch;
hob with an oven and a tank connected to water heating or hot water supply;
Swede - a combined heater with a niche for drying things.

Channel stove - Dutch

Folding the Dutchman shown in the picture on your own is quite simple. It is distinguished by its small size in plan, but it can be placed indefinitely in height, while the internal vertical channels are lengthened. This allows you to heat a two - or three-story house of a small area or a summer house, if you build a Dutch woman with a passage through the ceilings. The channel stove successfully burns firewood of various qualities and satisfactorily heats the premises, although you cannot call it economical.

Reference. The Dutch woman warms up quickly, and after attenuation it does not give off heat for long, the duration of burning from one bookmark also leaves much to be desired. Its strength is the ease of construction and undemanding fuel.

The stove shown in the photo is a convenient option for a country house or a small dwelling in the village, including for use in the summer. A tank installed in the path of hot flue gases is capable of supplying hot water for a heating system or household needs.

Swedish brick ovens combine the advantages of the two previous heaters. In addition, they are economical, give off the accumulated heat for a long time and work equally well on wood and coal. But the masonry of a Swede is unlike a hob, plus more bricks and purchased iron fittings are required.

Swedish oven built between the walls

Drawings and orders of stoves

Oven order - Dutch

Sectional diagram of a dutch

The order of laying the hob

Schematic device of the plate
Ordering a Swedish oven

Any brick oven transfers heat into the room in two ways: using infrared radiation from hot walls and through heating the air circulating in the room (convection). Hence the conclusion: for effective heating, it is necessary that the heater or at least part of it be in a heated room. Given this requirement, we will give some advice on choosing a place for a building in a rural house and in the country:

If you need to heat one large room, then it is better to lay out the stove in the middle, with a slight offset towards the outer wall, where the cold comes from.
For heating 2-4 adjacent rooms, the structure must be placed in the center of the building, dismantling part of the interior partitions.
Suppose 1-2 small rooms adjoin the hall. There you can carry out water heating with radiators and a circulation pump connected to a furnace heat exchanger or tank.
Do not plan to place the heater close to the outer walls. It is pointless to warm them up, part of the heat will simply go outside.
The hob and oven should go into the kitchen, and rude - into the living room or bedroom.

Advice. When placing the heater in the center of a private house, make sure that the future chimney does not fall into the roof ridge. It is better to move the building by 20-40 cm and bring the pipe through one of the roof slopes.

Partitions and floors made of wood or other combustible building materials that are closer than 500 mm from the furnace body must subsequently be protected with metal sheets. Under them, it is desirable to lay a layer of basalt cardboard. In a stone house, these precautions apply only to the wooden elements of the roof located next to the chimney.

Procurement of materials and components

The main building material from which the stove is built with your own hands is red ceramic brick. It must be of high quality and necessarily full-bodied, stones with voids inside are not used in the furnace business, except for the construction of street barbecues and barbecues.

Advice. Dutch is so undemanding to the quality of materials that it can be made from used red brick. Only upon completion of the masonry will it have to be ennobled, for example, overlaid with tiles or come up with a beautiful tiled decor.

To fold a small Dutch oven, you need to prepare the following materials and accessories:

red burnt brick - at least 390 pieces;
grate grate size 25 x 25 cm;
loading door 25 x 21 cm;
small doors for cleaning and blowing 14 x 14 cm;
metal shutter 13 x 13 cm.

Note. As mentioned in the first section, the Dutch can be laid out at any required height. The indicated number of bricks is enough for the construction in a one-story private house.

The list of components and building materials for the hob:

solid ceramic brick - 190 pieces;
grate 25 x 5 cm;
two-burner cast-iron stove measuring 53 x 18 cm with discs;
fuel chamber door 25 x 21 cm;
metal tank - boiler with dimensions of 35 x 45 x 15 cm;
oven 32 x 27 x 40 cm;
doors for cleaning 13 x 14 cm - 2 pcs.;
chimney damper;
steel corner 30 x 30 x 4 mm - 4 m.

To save money, you can take on the manufacture of a tank for heating water - simply weld it from metal with a thickness of 3, and preferably 4 mm. There is another option: instead of a tank, place a coil inside the furnace, welded with your own hands from a steel pipe with a diameter of 25-32 mm. But we must remember that in such a water circuit it is required to organize constant circulation with the help of a pump, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out.

For the construction of a heating and cooking Swedish stove, you will need the same set of materials as for the stove. Just take a larger corner - 50 x 50 mm, buy a steel strip 40 x 4 mm and prepare a refractory (fireclay) brick for laying the firebox. To install fittings, look for soft steel wire with a diameter of up to 2 mm.

Advice on masonry mortar. The preparation of natural clay, on which experienced stove-makers lay bricks, is a long and difficult process. Therefore, beginners are advised to use ready-made clay-sand mixtures for the construction of furnaces, which are commercially available.

Foundation laying

Before folding the oven, it is necessary to prepare a solid base. The structure is quite heavy, so it is unacceptable to put it directly on the floors, even those filled with cement screed. The foundation of the stove is a separate structure, not in contact with the base of the building. If you are building a brick heater close to the walls or erecting a corner fireplace, you need to make an indent of at least 150 mm so that there is a minimum clearance of 10 cm between the foundations.

If the floors in the house are filled with a screed, then it is recommended to follow the following step-by-step instructions for installing the furnace foundation:

Dismantle the section of the screed and dig a pit that protrudes beyond the dimensions of the furnace by 50 mm in each direction. The depth depends on the thickness of the upper layer of subsiding soil.
Place a sand cushion 100 mm high and tamp it down. Fill the hole to the top with rubble stone or broken brick, then fill it with liquid cement mortar.
After hardening, lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material and install the formwork protruding above the screed, as shown in the drawing.
Prepare the concrete and pour the foundation slab. For strength, you can lay a reinforcing mesh there.

After 3 weeks (the time of complete hardening of the concrete mixture), lay a sheet of roofing steel on the finished base, and on top - felt impregnated with clay mortar or basalt cardboard. After that, you can start laying the body of the furnace.

Scheme of the base device for wooden floors

To correctly lay the foundation of the furnace under the wooden floors, use the same algorithm, only instead of a concrete slab, lay out the walls of red brick (you can use it) to the level of the floor covering. Fill the void inside with rubble or rubble and concrete from above. Further - a sheet of metal, felt soaked with clay and a solid first row of oven masonry. You can get more information on the topic by watching the video

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Brick heating stoves are still very popular. You can make them yourself if you wish. In order to facilitate the work, drawings of brick ovens have been created. Following the instructions and recommendations on, you can build structures such as in the photo.

Any oven consists of the following parts:

base (does not connect to the foundation of the building);
the ash pan ensures the flow of air into the combustion chamber, accumulates ash, which can later be removed through a special door;
the firebox, separated from the ash pan by a grate (grate or rods), has a door for loading fuel, firewood burns in it;
a chimney is a pipe through which combustion products are discharged;
smoke circulations (their labyrinth circuits are needed to absorb heat from hot smoke).

Brick ovens have such characteristics as traction, power, efficiency, type of fuel used. The draft depends not only on the height of the chimney, but also on the section, the quality of the masonry. Ready-made schemes of brick heating stoves save the craftsmen from carrying out complex calculations (more details: "").

Russian oven: drawings of brick ovens

Previously, such designs were found in every home, but now they are already a rarity. Despite this, the Russian stove can successfully fit into the interior of the room. They are also not only a heating device - they also have a hob.

For laying the furnace, the following materials will be required:

solid red brick - 1610 pieces;
a view for a valve measuring 0.3x0.3 meters - 2 pieces;
dry clay mortar in dissolved form;
samovar 14x14 centimeters - 1 piece;
damper 43x34 centimeters - 1 piece. See also: "".

The pipe of the Russian stove is traditionally laid out of brick, however, modern technologies make it possible to install a round structure of good tightness with safe and convenient passage through floors and roofs (read also: "").

To work, you will need the following tools:

trowel - for laying and leveling the solution;
pickaxe - a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end is a square windshield;
bubble level for masonry and hydraulic for the first row;
rule - serves to align the bricks of each row;
plumb lines - one of them must be permanently attached to the axis of the chimney (overlap), and with the help of the second, the verticality of the corners is checked;
brush - needed for grouting;
cord - it is pulled over each row of masonry.

Drawings of brick ovens for any type of house are as follows:

Cooking chamber. For masonry, a 3/4 ground corner brick with locks is used.
Under. From the back there is a slope, for the purpose of which the space is covered with sand, on which the brick is laid.
Covering the bottom. The structure is covered with bricks along bars, corners or sheet blanks.
Vault with lock. In some cases a central lock is used, in others the last two symmetrical bricks are used.
Rows to the lower vault. The laying of a brick oven is carried out in the usual way, in the future, a vault template assembled from chipboard or springs cut from wood is installed on top of it.
Wells. They are tied rows, in which they leave a hole leading to the undercook.
Underbay. Bricks are laid on foundation mortar, hollow stones are not allowed.
Code VK. For convenience, the bricks are cut to a wedge shape.
Covering the channel above the samovar. It is solid, only whole stones are used.
Holes are reduced above the shestak. The brick is cut in accordance with the drawing.
Wall alignment. At the same time, the overtube is reduced, the channel of the samovar is laid.
Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate cover.
View installation. To build in the structure, two rows are laid.
Chimney. The height of the pipe from the bottom to the top must be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a visor that prevents precipitation from entering the chimney.

Thanks to this stove, high-quality heating of the house is provided.

Buslaevskaya oven: projects

The design has a built-in hood. The oven is small. It is ideal for any private home, as it allows not only to heat the premises, but also to cook food. Despite its compact size, the stove heats spacious rooms well, so there are ready-made ones.

Special schemes for laying brick ovens will help you get the job done without complicated calculations.

For installation, you will need the following materials:

doors - fireboxes (0.2x0.25 meters), VK (0.39x0.5 meters), blower (0.14x0.14 meters);
refractory - 43 pieces;
solid brick - 382 pieces;
oven-cabinet 28x33x50 cm;
cast iron stove 0.7x0.4 meters with burners (removable rings of different diameters);
valves - steam exhaust (12x13 centimeters) and smoke (12x25 centimeters);
grate - grate 30x20 centimeters;
corner - three blanks of equal-shelf rolled products 1 meter long and 45x45 millimeters in size;
steel - a piece of 0.3x0.28 meters;
strip - 4 pieces of meter (4 millimeters), 0.25 meters (2 millimeters), 0.35 meters (3 millimeters);
cast iron stove - 0.4 x0.25 meters; 40x15 centimeters.

Projects of brick ovens of this type are as follows:

Complete row.
The door blew.
Window opening for cleaning.
The bottom of the oven is laid out from refractory, three sides are lined with iron.
Installation of the furnace door, grate, under the furnace - refractory, cleaning cover, blower door.
DS installation.
Laying refractory on the edge around the LH.
Laying according to the scheme.
The upper coating of the oven with clay (1 centimeter) is carried out, the DT overlaps, a stove with burners is attached.
Installation of smoke circulation with cleaning windows, the plate is not laid.In the future, the brick is placed on the edge.
Cleaning is covered, channels are created, 25 cm strips are laid.
The cleanings are finished, the fixing wire is embedded.
The cap is installed.
Installation of the ceiling VK, while the hoods remain.
The stoves are laid out according to the scheme.
The small stove ends with sheet iron, the laying is carried out according to.
A cleaning hole of a large stove is laid out, the edges of the side walls of the channels are crimped.
Protrusion masonry.
The protrusions are duplicated and the corner is mounted.
The chimney of the BP overlaps similarly to the 19th row.
A three-row neck is made, the size of the chimney is reduced to a section of 26x13 centimeters for the top valve.
A chimney with grooves is created on this and subsequent rows.

The dimensions of the structure increase when using clinker facing bricks, so it is not recommended to use them instead of solid material. When finishing with tiles, durability is ensured (the material lasts for decades), in addition, it can be dismantled for facing other heating structures.

Sauna stove ordering: schemes

Projects of brick heating stoves show the location of fireclay and clay bricks in each row. Explanations for the order:

1, 2 row. A blower is created (window for air supply), dressing is used.

3. A window is left for the main chimney.

4. A damper, an ash pan door are installed.

5. A grate, a firebox are mounted, and a refractory is subsequently laid on them.

6. The shape of the chimney and firebox is repeated, doors are installed.

7-11 rows. The firebox ends on the 11th row.

12-14 rows. The heater box is installed.

15-16. The mine expands and halves by analogy with 6 next.

18. The cleaning door is installed.

22.23. The shafts are combined, while the edges of the brick are ground off. Then the shaft above the heater is completely blocked, only the chimney remains.

Frame structures can facilitate the installation process. In this case, the brick is present only in the outer walls, and all internal elements are welded from metal. This can speed up the process of laying the furnace. See also: "".

Furnaces often serve as interior decoration, so they are lined with clinker, tiles, tiles. The diagonals in the first row are carefully measured, and a plumb line is hung in the center of the chimney, which is removed on the last rows of the pipe. Also, the diagonals are controlled every 4 rows, and on each row a cord is pulled when laying, which is checked by the rule.

Instead of a cement-sand mortar, it is recommended to use clay, regardless of the type of furnace being built. Ready-made dry mortars significantly save time spent on clay preparation. So that the composition does not dry quickly, the brick must be moistened with water before laying.

Operating costs will be less if there are no rectangular ledges inside the structure. To this end, when creating an overlap (ledge), the stone is tried on without mortar, the line of overlap is outlined, and the excess material is cut off with a grinder. Internal seams during laying are regularly monitored, and excess mortar is removed from time to time. The pipe is cleaned after completion of work.

Brick ovens are laid out from several materials:

outer cladding;
masonry bricks (main structure);
fireclay - refractory material lays out places that are subjected to strong heat (furnace, under);
brick with high density edges - located inside the furnace.

Clay bricks cannot be mixed with fireclay, and ovens, hobs, rods and grates of grates, water tanks are not embedded in the masonry - this is due to different expansion coefficients during heating. If the metal elements are rigidly embedded in the masonry, then the structure will soon collapse. The drawings of brick heating stoves must be strictly observed in order for the construction to be reliable and durable (read also: ""). In addition, while working, you need to pay attention to several points.

The furnace seam should be no more than 5 millimeters for clay bricks, and 3 millimeters for refractory. It is forbidden to correct already laid bricks: the element is removed, the mortar is cleaned off, and then a new stone is laid. The foundation of a house or a bath must be removed from the base of the furnace by at least 5 centimeters, taking into account that in order to reduce heaving between them, the soil is replaced with sand. During the construction of a sauna stove with a firebox exiting into the dressing room, masonry must not be embedded in a frame partition, log house. The front wall of the structure is enlarged, joined with wooden elements and the gaps are sealed with non-combustible material (basalt wool is usually used). See also: "".

The rafter system, ceilings and the wooden house itself are fire hazardous. Therefore, when passing the furnace through these elements, it is necessary to follow the norms of SNiP.

In the ceilings, cuttings of the following types are created:

brick thickening (material consumption is large, the design does not look too beautiful);
a wooden box filled with non-combustible materials (expanded clay, sand, basalt wool);
sandwich of two pipes with internal heat-insulating material.

There are also multifunctional stoves that are capable of generating electricity, ensure the complete combustion of firewood, and have a heating circuit. Their ordering is more complicated, since they contain metal elements.

Drawings of brick ovens in the video with a good example of construction:

Despite the fact that many today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen are developing more and more new models of furnaces, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to be too early to turn on autonomous heating, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and save them from excessive moisture. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere in the house and a temperature balance that is comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query on how to fold the oven with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove-maker at all are showing a desire to try their hand at this craft. If a decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are recommended to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, what area it is designed to heat. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what you would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick ovens

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - this is home heating, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions at once in their "feature set". Therefore, in order to determine the desired model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry fruits and vegetables for the winter.

The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this it is turned with a stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall into the living area of the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and getting the opportunity to cook in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both active at the same time. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

Such a structure is being built both for the main heating of the house, and as an additional one, which is used in the spring and autumn to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its ability to cook, or in a large house in terms of total area, where several stoves are being built that perform different functions.

In a summer cottage in a small house, it is better to install a multifunctional building that can help out in several situations at once.

The cooking oven is being built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it of heating capabilities, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

A lot of different models of all the listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be quite miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the oven?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and give off heat as much as possible to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, you need to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The oven brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.

To get the most out of the stove, you shouldn't place it near an outside wall of a building, as it will cool down quickly and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure may have a different decorative finish, made in a style corresponding to the design of a particular area of the room.
Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of walls, ceiling and attic floor in the place of passage.
When choosing the installation site, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that each side of the foundation for the furnace must be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
In order to accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended that you always select the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functionality of the stove model, and the masonry tools used are always the same.

Tools needed for masonry work

To work, you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Of the tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation, you will need:

Rule - this tool is used to level the surface of the foundation poured with concrete.
A pickaxe is needed for splitting and hewing bricks.
Veselka - a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
A whisk made of bast is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and mortar that have entered them.
Lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
Scriber - a rod used for markings.
A plumb line is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
Construction corner with a ruler to check the correctness of the external and internal corners, as they must be perfectly straight.
Pliers are used to bend and cut off the wire to fix the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the masonry joints.
Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dried masonry.
The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
A rubber mallet is needed to level the brick laid on the mortar by tapping.
(trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has come out of the seams.
Jointing - a tool for leveling the mortar in the seams of the masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "for jointing", without further cladding.
A manual rammer will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
Containers for mixing mortar and clean water.
Sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for the comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not contact each other in any way, and even more so - be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will cause damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

In the case of building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected model of the furnace is not too massive, then the structure can also be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material at the installation site.

The foundation must have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
Then, in the soil of the subfloor, a pit is dug in the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined with plastic wrap or roofing material.

Then, a sand cushion with a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm is laid out at the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted using a manual rammer.
The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with gravel, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will retain the solution poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from escaping from it, which will allow the slab to dry and harden evenly.
The foundation should be about 250 mm below the level of the “clean” floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
The next step in the formwork, at its entire height, is a reinforcing grate made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected to each other by wire twists.
Further, in the lower part of the formwork, to a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm, you can pour a rough concrete mortar mixed with cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of an average fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use a conventional concrete mortar of sand and cement.
If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
The flooded one is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and drown a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the solution by 15 ÷ 20 mm.

The surface of the foundation is again leveled, and if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork on top of the grid.
Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.

To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make markings on the waterproofing material, indicating the location of the furnace base. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.

After these preparatory work, you can proceed to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar design, first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The whole building rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.

When performing dry laying, it is necessary to observe the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to be maintained the same throughout the entire masonry, slats 5 mm thick can be used. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of laths when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, laths must be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the furnace.

As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is made for jointing, and will not be further finished with additional decorative materials.

When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the furnace and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then it will be necessary to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, since a reverse draft may form, and the room will smoke during kindling.

Having lifted the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole ones, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each of the rows is also affixed. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in the right order, and all that remains is to soak it in turn and lay it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

Performing the main masonry, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the upper row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests on the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can be pulled out of the seam only after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no certainty that the vertical seams will be of the same thickness, a short rail can also be prepared for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after the alignment of two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration rails out of the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.

Processing of seams "under jointing"

If the calibration rails were laid on both edges of the brick, then recesses between the seams will also remain on the inside of the wall. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on a mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not skew.

Simple aids such as sizing bars will help you lay neatly with even joint widths. Therefore, the entire surface of the furnace will look as if the design was made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Furnace Yu. Proskurin with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can quite master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is able to perform all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a hot water tank.

Such a stove is able to heat one or two rooms with a total area of 17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms of the house. At the same time, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the plate towards the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows you to use only the hob in the warm season, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full heating is 1700 kcal / h.

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (piece)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281÷285	250×120×65
Fireclay bricks refractory grade Sh-8	82÷85	250×120×65
Furnace door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Firebox valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5 ÷ 6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, then you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.

In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended that you study the order very carefully before starting it, and keep this scheme always at hand during the masonry process.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. The row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ashpit (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, leave openings for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. On the same row they are installed. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. So that the door does not move from the installation site until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row, you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since further they will be laid out separately. The cross section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, in this row, the installed doors overlap. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made with refractory fireclay bricks, since the formation of the lower part of the furnace takes place. In the bricks that determine the place of laying the grate, from their inner edge, a cut is made at a right angle. The size of the cutout should be approximately 10×10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are laid over the blower chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required.
	After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on clay mortar, but often without mortar at all. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be on the order of 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, a furnace door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap, which will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is tied up.
	When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of stand for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of hot air, a protruding corner is cut on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cut to the depth of the brick by 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying the hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is laid with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (assuming the thickness of the hob is 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, a hob is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, on the clay-sand mortar, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed. A row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with the back side. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it out, the cooking chamber is covered with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which the valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay solution.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed, and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is crimped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The laying is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. Moreover, the corner inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth steam escape into the chimney. For laying, you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney opening is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, a metal plate is covered with brickwork. Further laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the openings of the channels remain open. Then, a metal corner is installed on the outside of the oven, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. 15 bricks are required for laying a row.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the scheme, masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, in order to direct the smoke in the right direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required.
	On the 27th row, with the help of masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, laying is carried out according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed into the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay solution. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31 ÷ 32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to following all the recommendations and the provided ordering scheme, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

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