Features of growing onions. How to grow large onions from sets

For several years now I have been growing onions in my own way. Neighbors come to marvel at my onion turnip and I am happy to share my experience with them. There are no special secrets here: laborious physical labor and unthinkable care. It will just be necessary to spud it several times during the entire period of onion ripening. You can see it in my photos. On the Internet you can read the most unusual methods of growing, especially fertilizers and top dressing surprise me. I will say for sure that I do not like onions fresh manure and permanent moisture. I’m not going to criticize those who didn’t even hold a shovel in their hands, I’ll just tell you how I grow turnip onions. I plant onions in early May, when the earth dries out and warms up.

I dig up a bed for sowing onions, break all the clods of earth, for this I go through it with a rake and scatter a little ash. I have a purchased onion set, I sort it out, cut off the upper ends with scissors and immerse the whole onion in a pre-prepared bright pink solution of manganese. I have it there for half an hour. I pour the used solution into a watering can and dilute it with water, water the currant bushes (this is only good for currants.)

I draw a bed of onions with a special stick for this purpose on the line for planting the sevka, a gap of 15 cm. Then, in each line, with the same stick, I make indentations every 15 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm. Then I fall asleep and clap my hand a little. In dry weather, be sure to water. After 3-5 days, the onion rises evenly green pen I definitely water it every night. I carefully spud the grown onion, at the same time I remove the weeds. Hilling I spend two more times, as the greenery grows. An important condition, if you want to get a large turnip, then you do not need to cut off the central feathers, otherwise some lovers will cut off everything for the salad and wait for new ones to appear, and besides, the onion will grow giant.

In July, onion feathers noticeably grow, become long and juicy. I am doing the third hilling of the onion. And it seems that there are no more worries with him. I look at watering how he feels. No yellowing, lodging, shooting. For prevention - times in two weeks I water the onion with a pink solution of manganese. In the lowest photo you can see how juicy the onion feathers are and the moment when I raked the earth from the neck of the bulb. Now the turnip will be big, big!

At the end of July, I prepare the onion for final ripening, now the task is not to grow a feather, but to develop the turnip itself. To do this, I rake the earth from each neck of the bulb, but not too much. The bulb itself will do the rest as soon as it feels free. You will immediately notice this transformation, in just a few days the onion will become larger. But the feathers in the garden will begin to lie down, this is a sign that the onion is ready for harvest. Green feathers can be harvested and used for food, they are not bitter at all, and are quite suitable for many dishes. I cook okroshka, salads, and most of it I freeze with dill in the form of briquettes for the winter. I will talk about this and show in the next topic. I stop watering so that the onion does not rot. I usually harvest onions until August 8-10. I do it early in the morning, in sunny, dry weather. I don’t dig onions, I just pull them out by the feather and leave them to dry in the garden. During the day I stir it up so that it is better ventilated. By evening, I cut off the feathers and take the onion under a canopy, scatter it there for further drying. Onions keep well, last up to next harvest. Absolutely no chemicals and environmentally friendly.

You can treat it differently, you can love it or not love it. This plant is in our Everyday life- as good neighbor: always there and always help. Russian cuisine can no longer be imagined without it. Many include onions. Yes and in landscape design he strengthened his position: the abundance of species and forms allows in flower beds and borders, even in rockeries there is a place for him.

And the abundance of onion varieties for food purposes is simply amazing: the same one in one variety is juicy and less burning, in the other it is so hard and sharp that it is used exclusively for heat treatment. I confess: I am a fan and connoisseur of onions - both in the garden and on my table. Therefore, I think: no matter how much you talk about the bow, there will still be a lot of new things every time.

Bow in the classical sense - herbaceous plant belonging to the family Amaryllis subfamily Onion. But regarding the origin of the name of the genus (lat. Allium), 2 versions are considered: one by one - the onion got its name thanks to a colleague, who in Ancient Rome also called Allium; according to another version, the Celtic word all participated in the name, which means “burning” in translation. However, be that as it may, this does not affect the cultivation.

Onions (allium) have more than 400 various kinds, of which about 130 species are widely distributed in ornamental horticulture. Onion plants are rhizomatous or bulbous, annual or perennial. Bulbs can be spherical or cylindrical. Greens - basal juicy, fragrant, tubular or flat "feathers" with a burning taste. Flowers are arranged on arrows, short or long. They are small, collected in a characteristic spherical inflorescence and covered with thin film until they unravel.

The first thing that comes to mind when you hear the word "onion" is onion. This species is the most common among vegetable growers in our country; its bulb is valuable to us. But he has numerous "brothers":, and others who are grown for the sake of greenery "on the pen." They do not form an underground bulb and are used as fresh herbs for the table. Especially popular for picking fresh herbs perennial bows, which can grow in one place for more than one year. Bulb-forming plants are most often dug up for the winter. For those who are interested in the “onion” topic, I recommend interesting articles about different types of this plant - both decorative and used for food:

Planting onions

The principles of planting onions "for food" and for decorative purposes are the same. Main rule: do not plant onions after related crops so that the bulbs do not rot and there are no other diseases. But, cabbage, and are excellent predecessors.

Place to drop off choose light, warm, so that the sun warms the soil. For it's still and important condition beautiful coloration. And for onions, light and warmth are juicy onions and bright greens. In addition, loose warm soil reduces the risk of rot.

For onions, light and warmth are juicy onions and bright greens.

Onion loves fertile soil, well seasoned with organic and mineral, with a reaction close to neutral. As a rule, prepare a bed for onions in advance. You can plant both before winter (early autumn), and in early spring. Before winter, onions are usually planted “on a feather” in order to delight themselves in the spring with fresh herbs, but if you follow simple rules, then it is possible on a turnip.

I planted several times (small onions grown from seeds) before winter, but in the spring he very quickly began to shoot to the detriment of greenery and the formation of an onion. After reading, I realized: for this, you need to choose sevok no more than 1-1.5 cm in diameter.

Seeds are planted in spring in the first decade of May in well-warmed soil. The problem in this case is only its preservation in winter: small onions can dry out. And yet, if planted in the soil, the temperature of which is less than +12 degrees, the onion will quickly begin to shoot. But you should not be late with planting either - this can affect the development and quality of the bow later.

Preparing planting material

We sort out the seeds collected in the fall (damaged ones are not suitable for planting). The day before planting, I put them in cheesecloth and soak in warm water.

I also sort out the sevok and distribute it more carefully in size. I keep sevok at home - at room temperature or a little lower - and the day before landing I put it closer to the battery to warm up.

If the bow was kept cool, it is also better to warm it up, otherwise the rapid appearance of arrows cannot be avoided. Immediately before planting the bulbs in gauze, I put them in a solution of copper sulphate for 10 minutes (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). This reduces the risk of fungal diseases. Some gardeners also soak in a fertilizer solution, I don't do that.

So, we make a bed, once again we dig it well, remove it. Depending on what kind of planting material we take, we select this planting pattern:

1. Sevok I close up to a depth of about 4 cm, I make the distance between rows 25 cm, I leave a little more than 10 cm between the bulbs. Usually the soil is humus

2. If I sow seeds(they form at the end of a mature arrow in the fall), I plant them no more than 2 cm into the soil (the scheme is approximately 13x1.5 cm), I water it abundantly from a small watering can and cover it with plastic wrap.

onion care

Watering

Onions need moisture to develop properly. Many sources say that it makes sense to water onions once a week.

But in 2013, for example, the summer was inconsistent: either the sun was hot, and the tips of the onion feathers had already dried up in a couple of days, or it was raining when the bulbs were already formed (the bulb ripening process begins in July), and watering was not particularly required. In this case, you need to look so that the onion does not dry out, but also does not overflow. Greens will be the first to let you know about excess moisture - it will turn pale green.

fertilizers

If the onion does not go green for a long time, it makes sense to feed it with liquid fertilizers. Perfect for 1 liter. urea +1 glass of mullein. After a couple of weeks, you can feed again.

Loosening and weeding

soil around the onion makes sense several times a week, but I usually limit myself to once.

Definitely needs to be weeded beds with onions. Last summer I planted it in different places: one was in the open sun, and the second - in a warm sunny place, but with a fickle sun. I was in no hurry to weed the onion growing on the “ashes” itself - I just broke through the most aggressive weeds so that small feathers would not drown out, and when the onion gained strength, weeds can be removed. This helped for some time to protect young feathers from overdrying and wilting.

Treatment against fungus

Many gardeners, when the feather reaches 15 cm, treat the foliage with a solution of copper sulfate in order to prevent fungus. I did not spend, and while the fungus bypasses my bow. My grandmother liked to add 1 tablespoon of laundry soap grated and dissolved in water to the copper sulphate solution.

Propagation of onions

Onions are propagated by seeds. At the end of summer, arrows with "balls" at the end are formed on the plants - they contain the seeds.

When the arrow is dry and the seeds turn black, carefully pour them out for storage.

Seeds are used to obtain small onions - sevka, from which a full-fledged bulb is formed a year after planting.

Cleaning and storage of onions

If no new feathers are formed, it is September, the foliage has died, and the bulbs are pleasing to the eye with golden scales, it's time to start cleaning. The main thing is not to tighten it, otherwise the bow will decide to “wake up” and start growing.

Usually, when I dig up onions, I don’t wash them - this is how it has historically happened in our family: after a good drying and removal of scales, it becomes perfectly clean. But this year there were constant rains, so after the onion was dug up, it had to be washed, the roots removed, and the feathers trimmed. After that, the onion is laid out to dry in one layer.

For drying You need a bright, well-ventilated room. After about 3 weeks, scales form even on bare bulbs, then the crop can be put into boxes or containers for storage. Our bow is usually laid out on the street under a canopy, and in the first days after we dug it, we leave it right on the ridge under the sun.

Varieties of onion

• Odintsovo- included in the State Register for many districts, including the Central. Recommended for growing on a turnip from seeds and sets. Mid-season bulb, round, flat or round-flat. Max weight- about 80 g. This is one of my mother's favorite varieties; it is juicy and the scales are crispy. Suitable for fresh consumption in salads - not "nuclear" burning. The upper dry scales of the bulbs are golden yellow. The variety is suitable for storage.
• Bessonovsky- refers to the local varieties of Penza. The shape of the bulb is rounded flat with a clear elongation of the neck upwards. The upper scales are yellow. Bulb is dense. Bulb weight - about 45 g. Burning spicy taste. well kept

Tell us, what kind of onions do you grow?

The onion family includes such common plants in our gardens as onions, onions, shallots. They are grown for the sake of obtaining the first spring greens, rich in vitamins and phytoncides, as well as bulbs that are used in cooking. different dishes and in conservation. Most onions are unpretentious crops, and grow a good crop with some simple rules even a novice gardener can.

It is not recommended to grow onions in one place for more than 2 years. The best predecessors for onions, cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes and legumes are considered. In addition, you can plant onions and garlic after beets, zucchini, squash. Bad predecessors are carrots and tomatoes.

Pests. The main pests of onions are onion flies. To combat them, in the fall, dig up the ridges on which onions or garlic grew, treat the seed material with insecticides before planting, and warm the onion sets for 24 hours at a temperature of + 40-45 degrees. A good result is the use of ash or tobacco dust, if they are sprinkled with onion beds, as well as watering the plants with a solution of water and table salt(200 g per bucket of water).

Major illnesses. Of the diseases that affect onions, cervical rot, as well as false powdery mildew. For control and prevention, immediately after harvesting, it is recommended to dig up the soil and add slaked lime or ash. Damaged plants are recommended to be burned.

How to grow onions

Onions are a universally familiar crop grown for bulbs and for feathers (i.e., for greens). There are several varieties of onions that differ in ripening time, bulb color and taste. A good harvest of this crop can be obtained several times a year: in spring and summer in the garden, in autumn and winter in greenhouses. A small amount of greenery can be grown even in an apartment on the windowsill.

Temperature regime. Onion is a completely cold-resistant crop, its seeds germinate well at + 3-5 degrees. And the optimal temperature for growing a plant is 23-25 ​​° C, hotter weather can negatively affect crop yields.

Landing methods

To obtain bulbs, plants are planted in the ground using a seedling and seedless method; onions can also be grown from sets.

Seedless cultivation. The easiest way to plant onions is seedless. Sow the seeds directly into the ground, deepening them into the soil by 1-1.5 cm (so that seedlings appear faster, pre-soak the seeds).

The onion crop can be harvested 23-24 weeks after planting, which makes this method cultivation suitable only for areas with a mild climate, in which planting can be carried out in early spring. AT middle lane when planting in open ground, onions may not have time to ripen, so in order to get a good harvest, use winter sowing or seedling method.

Winter sowing is carried out after the onset of stable cold weather so that the onion does not have time to germinate. Prepare the beds in advance before the soil freezes. Sow the seeds in furrows to a depth of 5-6 cm, sprinkle with a layer of humus 2-3 cm on top.

Growing onions through seedlings. To obtain strong seedlings, sow the seeds in March in shallow boxes or special cassettes. use for finished soil mixtures or fertile garden soil. After sowing, cover the boxes with foil and keep the temperature within 18-25 ° C, when shoots appear, transfer the boxes to a cool place (10-12 ° C) so that the sprouts do not stretch.

After a week, you can increase the temperature by 6-8 ° C. Shelter for several hours a day, remove for ventilation. Water the onion seedlings every 2-3 days. You can feed her 1-2 times min. fertilizers (20 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of potassium chloride and 40 g of superphosphate per bucket of water).

Planting seedlings in open ground. Before planting seedlings in open ground, it is good to harden it.

Seedlings are best planted at a distance between rows of 10-12 cm, between plants in a row - 6 cm. In order not to damage the roots of plants when planting, it is best to transplant onions with a clod of earth. Before planting, water the soil abundantly on previously prepared ridges.

Planting onion seedlings.

The easiest way to plant onions. A less troublesome way to grow onions in areas with a temperate and cool climate is to plant sevka (small onions grown from seeds). Landing is carried out in the first decade of May, making holes with a scoop or a peg and deepening the bulbs by about 1 cm (try not to sprinkle the neck with earth). Plant sets 20-25 cm apart between rows and 5-10 cm between bulbs. It is convenient to use a two-row tape planting at a distance of 20-35 cm between rows and 5-10 cm between bulbs.

AT closed ground when growing onions on a feather (on greens) as planting material use sevoc.

Preparing the soil for planting onions

A good harvest can only be obtained by planting on well-lit, sunny areas with rich soil. Onions do not tolerate stagnant moisture, so this crop works best in drained areas. The soil on them should not be clay.

A plot for growing onions is best prepared in the fall. Dig up the ground to the depth of a shovel bayonet, remove weed roots, apply rotted manure, mineral fertilizers. Loosen in the spring upper layer soil, then level everything with a rake.

How to water

Winter onion planting.

Onions during the formation and growth of leaves should be watered regularly (in May - once a week, and in June - once every 10 days), between waterings, loosen the soil between the rows and carefully weed out the weeds. However, remember that a completely different humidity regime is needed for the bulbs to ripen, so stop watering completely 3-4 weeks before harvesting.

When growing onions on greens in protected ground, water the soil as it dries and loosen it between waterings.

How to feed and fertilize onions

When growing onions in open field fertilize per 1 m2 according to the following scheme: in autumn, when preparing the soil, add 4 kg of compost and 100 g of potassium sulfate; in the spring before planting - 25 g of nitrogen fertilizers; after the formation of the first leaves - 20 g of nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers, and 5-7 days after that, fertilize the plants with manure diluted in water (in a ratio of 1: 10) or bird droppings (in a ratio of 1: 20).

To get a good harvest, carry out another top dressing during the formation of the bulbs: apply more phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the rate of 15-25 g per 1 m2.

If you notice that the onion is growing slowly and its leaves have turned white, add a mixture of 200 g of mullein and 20 g of urea dissolved in a bucket of water. After 15 days, feed the plants with another solution of nitrophoska.

Onions grown by sowing seeds (chernushka) are fed for the first time in the phase of the appearance of the fourth leaf with infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20), consumption - a bucket of 3-4 square meters. m. In the aisles, grooves are made 6-8 cm deep, they are watered with a fertilizer infusion and covered with soil. Two weeks later, a second top dressing is carried out: a teaspoon of urea and potassium sulfate, 2 teaspoons of superphosphate per square meter. m.

When growing onions on a feather in open or closed ground, apply complex fertilizers(1 time in 10 days).

Planting and growing leeks

Leek is a relatively new culture in our country, found in vegetable gardens less often than other bulbs. This type of onion is more common in the southern regions (this is due to the rather long period from germination to harvest).

Leek is grown to obtain a thickened lower white part of the stem (this plant does not form bulbs), if desired, young green leaves can also be used as food. The main conditions for obtaining a good harvest of this crop are right choice land for planting and timely fertilization.

Temperature regime

To get a good harvest, the average temperature during the growing season should be 17-23 ° C, although in general the crop is cold-resistant and can withstand short-term frosts down to -7 ° C.

When growing leeks seedling way plant seedlings in the ground when the soil warms up to +10 ° C.

Planting leeks

In the southern regions of our country, leeks can be grown by sowing in open ground, in regions with a cool climate, a seedling method of growing is recommended - in this case, you can get a crop in the year of sowing (approximately 45-60 days from the moment the seedlings were planted in the beds) . The ripening time depends on the early maturity of the variety, on weather conditions and fulfillment of agrotechnical requirements.

To speed up the emergence of seedlings, pre-wet and germinate the seeds. Seedling care is about the same as when growing onions: water the seedlings regularly. You can apply liquid complex fertilizers once. Optimum temperature for the growth of leek seedlings - 18-25 ° C before seed germination and 14-16 ° C after emergence. If the temperature is higher and the lighting is insufficient, the seedlings will stretch.

Plant seedlings in the ground in late April or early May. Plant in furrows 10-15 cm deep (at least 10 cm apart between individual plants). After 2 weeks, fill the furrows with fertile soil.

The soil should be fertile and always loose, preferably neutral. On the acidic soils it will not be possible to get a good crop of leeks.

How to water onions

Planting leeks.

Leek is a moisture-loving plant, so be sure to water it regularly from planting until the end of the growing season, increasing the frequency of watering during the dry months. After each watering, loosen the row spacing.

Hilling onions

In order to grow juicy bleached stems and high yield, 3-4 times per season, hill the leeks. And of course, besides this, do not forget to weed out and loosen the soil.

top dressing

Feed the leeks regularly - without this, you will not be able to get a good harvest. Nitrogen fertilizers are especially important for leeks - they are especially needed in the second half of summer, when greenery is actively formed.

The best would be the alternation of liquid organic fertilizers, for example, an aqueous solution of mullein 1: 8 or bird droppings 1:20 at the rate of 3 liters per 1 sq. m. and mineral fertilizers (for example, a solution of ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate at the rate of 15-20 g per 1 m2).

Planting and growing shallots

Shallots or family, multi-celled onions, are valued for their early maturity and palatability. This species is less common than onions. In one nest, several medium-sized bulbs are formed, which have a less pungent taste than ordinary onions. Shallots can be grown outdoors for bulbs and feathers, indoors for feathers. Shallot leaves do not coarsen for a long time and remain juicy.

Temperature regime

Shallot tolerates well low temperatures. If left to winter, it can easily withstand soil freezing down to -20 degrees, and in spring the greens will appear earlier than other types of onions. The optimum temperature for shallots during the growing season is 20-24 °C.

Planting shallots

Growing shallots.

Shallots are the easiest to propagate vegetatively- planting bulbs, and for growing new varieties, seed propagation is preferable.

Soak bulbs before planting for 20-30 minutes in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then rinse with cold water.

Landing is carried out in spring (from late April to early May) or autumn (from late September to early October). For spring planting use medium bulbs (3-4 cm in diameter), for autumn - smaller ones (about 2 cm in diameter).

Plant bulbs at a depth of 2-4 cm, with autumn planting mulch them with peat or earth with a layer of 3-4 cm.

For large shallots experienced gardeners suggest planting in the spring, planting bulbs 15 cm apart, and 30 cm between rows. In the process of growing, periodically pull out one bulb from each nest (they can be used for food), so that by autumn 1- 2 bulbs.

When growing shallots on a feather in protected ground, plant from the second half of February, then in the spring you will harvest the first crop of greens.

When forcing shallots on a feather, the bulbs can be reused. To do this, after cutting the greens, remove them from the soil, cut them across and plant them again in boxes or pots with a fertile soil mixture.

tillage

When growing shallots outdoors in the spring, remove the covering material from the beds as early as possible so that the soil warms up faster. In this case, you will speed up the harvest of greens.
After germination, loosen the soil between the rows and rows and carefully weed the weeds.

It is recommended to loosen the aisles 2-3 times during the summer to a depth of 5-6 cm, after each watering it is enough to loosen the ground to a depth of 3-5 cm. During loosening, it is not recommended to add soil to the plants themselves, as this slows down the ripening of the bulbs.

If you are growing shallots in a greenhouse, loosen the soil not deep, but after each watering.

Watering

In the first half of the growing season, water shallots regularly: from May to mid-July - 3-4 times a week, in hot and dry weather, you can increase the number of waterings. In the second half of summer, you need to water less, and you can stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvesting the bulbs.

Indoors, water shallots regularly but sparingly. Loosen after each watering.

How to feed shallots

During the entire growing season, it is recommended to feed shallots 1-2 times (this is enough to get a rich harvest both in open and protected ground). Use an aqueous solution of mullein (in a ratio of 1:10), bird droppings (in a ratio of 1:15) or complex min. fertilizers (at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water).

Planting and growing onions - batun

Onion is a batun perennial, it can be grown both in open ground and in greenhouses. In one place, the plant can be successfully grown for several years, but in the third year its yield decreases, the leaves become coarser.

In culture, there are several varieties of onion-batun, which can be divided into two main groups. Early-ripening peninsulas give a harvest in early spring, late-ripening spicy ones ripen 30-40 days later. Growing onions is not difficult, especially if you plant disease-resistant varieties.

Temperature regime

Batun onion is a winter-hardy crop, it tolerates frosts down to -45 ° C. The optimum temperature for vegetation is 19-23 °C.

Sowing onion - batun

Batun onions can be propagated by seedlings and seedless. Planting seeds in open ground begins at the end of April, to a depth of 2 cm. The easiest way is row sowing at a distance of 40-50 cm between rows, but you can also use a tape sowing scheme: sow seeds in 2-5 lines at a distance of 10 cm between rows and the same number between plants.

Onions - batun easily propagated vegetatively. To do this, simply divide the bushes and plant each onion separately. It is best to do this in the spring or late summer. Plant the bulbs in rows.

For a good harvest, plant onions in the spring, in last resort summer or early autumn.
For distillation in winter time in autumn, dig up a few plants and transplant them into boxes, put them in a warm, bright place and water 2-3 times a week.

Getting an early harvest of onions

To get early greens in late February - early March, plant onions in tunnel-type film greenhouses. This method will allow you to get a crop two or even three weeks earlier (at the same time, it will be 1.5-2 times higher than when growing onions in open ground).

You can also use a frameless shelter: sow the seeds of onion-batun in open ground and cover with perforated film, sprinkling it around the edges with earth.

For forcing on a feather, onions can also be grown in a greenhouse. In the fall, plant delenki in rows, and already in March, when the onion leaves grow 15-20 cm, harvest the first crop.

When growing onions in a greenhouse, make small furrows on the ridges, plant onions in them and cover them with soil. To get a good harvest, maintain a temperature of + 10-15 C in the greenhouse, gradually increasing it to 20 C. Optimum air humidity is 70-80%. 7-10 days after planting, apply mineral fertilizers to the soil.

loosening

Loosening the row spacing is the key to getting a good onion crop. A few days after the first weeding, loosen the soil between the rows of plants.

Watering

To get fresh juicy greens, do not forget to water the onion-batun (with a lack of moisture, its leaves coarsen and become bitter). The recommended rate is 3-4 times a week for 10-20 l / m2. 3-4 hours after watering, loosen the aisles.

How to feed onions - batun

To get a good onion crop, do not forget to feed it with mullein diluted in a ratio of 1: 8 or bird droppings (1: 20), one feeding per season is enough. After harvesting, it is desirable to apply liquid mineral fertilizers (50 g of ammonium nitrate, 3 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water).

When we plant any vegetables or something else edible on our site, our main task is to get a decent harvest. And such a crop is often characterized by large fruits, vegetables, tubers and other similar things. Of course, everything is good only in moderation, and not always large fruits give us what we wanted to receive. For example, quite often large potatoes inside it is empty, and this, of course, is very bad. But, today we will talk about onions. When we plant it, we always expect that in the end it will grow large with us. After all, few people like to collect onions, which in the end turned out to be a little more set. This is not why we planted it.

Large bow. The main secrets of its cultivation

The first moment, which ultimately determines the final result, is the planting of the onion. By the way, you can plant it with sevkom not only in spring, but also before winter (it is written about it here). When to do this is up to you. The main thing to remember is that any planting involves first preparing the soil in an appropriate way. As for onions, they should not be planted in clay soil. He doesn't like it. If you have nothing to choose from, and the soil on your site is just like that, then its composition will need to be corrected. To do this, sand or peat is simply poured on top of the bed, and these components are well mixed with the main composition of the soil. In addition, the soil should also be slightly alkaline. If you have it sour (acidity can be determined in this way), then in the fall, you will definitely need to add dolomite flour. It will help loosen up the soil.

Now, as for the sevka. It also needs to be prepared for landing. It is best to "bathe" it a little in potassium permanganate (we make a solution, and lower it there for 10 or 20 minutes). So you can disinfect all planting material, which in the future will save your onion from certain diseases. In addition, onion germination can be accelerated. To do this, the top of the sevka will need to be slightly trimmed. When you plant it, then in a row, you will need to pour a little ordinary salt. She'll help you get away onion fly from your beds. In addition to salt, carrots can also scare away this pest from onions. Therefore, always plant both of these vegetables side by side. Onions for carrots are also useful, because they also have their own fly, carrot, which already harms carrots. Onions, on the other hand, just do not allow the carrot fly to approach its favorite delicacy. So the benefits here are mutually beneficial.

How and what to feed?

It's no secret that proper feeding significantly affects the size of the fruits of any crops. Feeding is also very important for onions. It is done not once, but three times. For the first time, it is necessary to feed the onion, when only 2 leaves appear on it. Well suited for this slurry, which you will need to prepare. This is done simply - a liter of manure is usually simply diluted in a bucket of water. In addition to slurry, chicken manure is also well suited. Its concentration will already be smaller - 1 cup of such litter per whole bucket of water. To both options for this top dressing, you will need to add a few more components. This is superphosphate (30-40 grams), which must first be dissolved in warm water, and also ash (fill a glass).

For the second time, do not forget to feed the onion after 2 weeks. This is done again with the same superphosphate (30 grams), but with urea (10 grams) and potassium (5 grams). This calculation is also given for a bucket of water.

The end of June will come and you will need to remember once again about top dressing. You need to do this with exactly the same composition as top dressing number 2. But, if you linger a little and you will carry out top dressing somewhere in early July, then use nitrogen instead of urea. But, with nitrogen fertilizers, you need to be careful. If you “overdo it” with them, you will get a good feather, but at the same time the bulbs themselves will suffer significantly. Potassium sulphate is the best option of all potash fertilizers, because onions need sulfur. Potassium also largely determines the overall safety of the bulbs. It is also present in the ashes.

Fresh manure, which many bring in in the spring, cannot be used to feed onions. The same fully applies to potassium chloride (you can make it, but you just need to do it in the fall). But phosphorus should not be neglected, because it largely determines the size of the bulbs.

How to dry and store onions correctly?

When you get good large onion this is far from everything. If you can't save it, then why did you grow it at all? And in order for it to be stored for a long time, it must, first of all, be removed from the garden on time. When the first August rains come, there should be no more onions in your beds. So, at the end of July, you will need to remove all of it. If you forget about it, then it can seriously get wet, and such a bow is unlikely to be preserved for a long time.

To remove the onion on time is also not a guarantee of its long-term storage. The main thing is to dry it well after that. This is best done in the attic, if it is warm enough and at the same time the wind is still walking. When the onion dries well, then all the dirt is already removed from it, and the dried tops are cut off. But, they do not cut it off at the root, but always leave 8-10 centimeters.

When you have already put the bow in storage, do not forget to sort it out sometimes. After all, it is enough to spoil one bulb and then everything will begin to deteriorate. Your task is to prevent this.

Here in this video you will be shown another way to get a large onion. How to do it? See.

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Onion is an indispensable ingredient in cooking, it is hard for cooks to do without this vegetable. Nowadays, recipes have already been invented in which onions are the main component of the dish. And how to grow this crop, and what kind of care it needs to achieve a larger crop in the garden, we will analyze today. After all healthy foods must always grow suburban area.

How to grow onions

Since everyone is familiar with this vegetable, we will not waste time on characterizing and describing the variety, because everyone knows what an onion variety looks like. This species has a flat-round head covered with a golden husk. In the photo you can see that the onion is cut white color with a sharp onion smell and excellent palatability. Therefore, let's immediately move on to planting and caring for the plant. As for planting onions, here you can use several methods:

1. Chernushka. These are onion seeds, which are grown specifically in order to collect sevok at the end of summer and leave it for seedlings next year. Thus, onion culture is bred experienced gardeners because it takes a lot of time and effort to grow them. This plant can be considered biennial, since the crop after the first cultivation cannot be used, it is too small and not suitable for culinary ideas.
2. Growing onions from sets is the most common way, mostly summer residents use it, buying small onions in the markets or growing them from nigella. Onions planted in this way grow quickly, so at the beginning of autumn you can harvest a large crop, unless, of course, you follow all the rules for growing onion heads at home.
3. In addition, gardeners often also use this method, namely, they grow onions from quarters. They simply clean a large head, cut it into 4 parts (smaller ones are divided in half) and planted in open ground. Usually, such planting of bulbs is carried out much earlier, mainly at the end of April. "Adult" bulbs are not afraid of cold weather and can easily endure temperatures down to -7 degrees.

The growing season for onions lasts about three months. The growing season may be extended in the northern regions of the country due to the unstable climate. Growing onions begins with the preparation of seed. This onion variety usually does not provide for the cultivation of seedlings, so the seeds can be planted immediately in the prepared soil. Initially, you need to sort, selecting only dense, dry heads from the whole seed. Next, it is advisable to ignite the onion seeds for about 7 hours at a 40 degree temperature. Then pour the onions with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour and then rinse the onions with clean water. If necessary, you can place the seedlings in growth accelerators for an hour. Now the material for sowing is ready. These procedures are carried out only with sets, otherwise, peel the onion, cut into 2-4 parts, process with potassium permanganate and can be planted.

Attention! The onion goes to the arrow if the seed is more than 3 cm. Therefore, it will not be possible to harvest a good crop. It is better to use smaller copies.

Vegetative propagation of bulbs

Many gardeners prefer vegetative propagation onions, mainly engaged in vegetative seedlings northern cities. Bulbs propagate by planting smaller bulbs that look like nigella, but are not. Onions propagate mainly on beds or ridges, which are prepared in the fall. A nest of 7-20 bulbs is formed from one seed. The active growth of the root crop, namely the turnip, begins in the second half of June, so it is important to take care of the fruits and not let the earth dry out.

onion care

After a couple of weeks, you can see the first young green onion in the beds. The technology of growing onions is simple but competent care. And you should start with weeding and loosening. You can get a good onion crop only with the timely removal of weeds and loosening the soil after each watering and rainy weather. These procedures will help to avoid the formation of a crust on the earth's surface.

It is necessary to water the onion under the root in hot weather once a week, if the climate is temperate, then two plentiful waterings per month will be enough. These norms are quite enough for the bulbs to restore the water balance. After prolonged rains, the next watering should occur after the soil has completely dried. A month before harvest, stop watering the plant to prepare it for long-term storage. If it starts to rain, then cover the onion with a film to prevent moisture from entering the soil.

Feeding onions is a must. The first top dressing of onions in the open field is carried out after the germination of the seed. In video reviews, gardeners recommend fertilizing the plant with a solution a couple of weeks after planting the seeds, which can be obtained by mixing 10 liters of water, 40 g of superphosphate, 30 g of nitrate and 20 g of potassium chloride. The resulting mixture is watered with beds for accelerated growth plants.

The next top dressing is done a month after planting the seeds. It is considered the main one, and is needed so that the grown onions become large by the end of summer. In this case, you can use the previous recipe by increasing the dosage of drugs by 10 liters of water per 10 g of each substance. Or you can buy finished product Agricole 2. A bucket of water will need only 200 ml of the substance. The resulting solution is used for 2 square meters well spilling the ground under each bulb.

The last top dressing of growing onions should be done when the head grows to 4 cm in diameter. How to feed onions in July? The drug "Effekton-O" will do its job well and help speed up the ripening of vegetables, enriching the earth with the necessary minerals. The mixture is diluted following the instructions, which details how much and what to add to the water and in what volumes to water the onions.

Attention! Nitrogen fertilizing of fruits is prohibited if your efforts are aimed at obtaining a large crop.

Every gardener should know how to cut onions before storage, otherwise he simply won’t be able to keep the crop until spring. So, after drying, the limbs of the heads are cut, namely, the rhizome is cut, not reaching the bulb 3-5 cm, and the dry neck is cut at a distance of 10-15 cm from the turnip. These indicators will prevent viruses and bacteria from entering the center of the bulb and protect it from adversity until the spring sun.

Helpful information! After harvesting, you can see that some specimens have a thick neck. This suggests that the onion is not ripe and not suitable for long-term storage and transportation. It is best to eat it first.

Now you know how to grow, how to water an onion crop, what you need top dressing for, and what accelerating fertilizers for onions will help you achieve the desired results. It remains in July or August to harvest, produce correct handling bulbs, dry them and put them on long-term storage in the cellar or hang in the apartment.

How to grow onion seeds

As you already know, onions propagate with the help of seeds, but this does not mean that you need to immediately go to the market and buy goods, because the product may not be of high quality or spoiled. It is better to grow planting material yourself, but how to get the seeds themselves is not an easy task and it will take much more time to grow them. than an ordinary bow. First you need to correctly select the queen cells, that is, the bulbs that are able to bring seeds. So, attention should be paid to large heads, the diameter of which is not more than 10 cm and not less than 5 cm. Rotten and sluggish specimens are not suitable for reproduction, so it is advisable to immediately discard them to the side. After harvesting, mother liquors are sent for storage much later. All this time they must be kept warm, and in winter they are redirected to storage. This procedure is carried out to ensure that the onion is covered with husks as much as possible. Then the bulbs are calcined in the oven at a temperature of 40 degrees. Onion storage conditions should be different from normal storage, usually mother liquor temperatures are lowered to +2 degrees.

At the end of April, uterine onions are planted in open ground to obtain seeds. Vegetation in bulbs lasts a month longer, this explains such early boarding. Before planting, the neck of the bulbs undergoes shortening. This action will ensure early and friendly germination of greenery. Deepen the plant into the soil so that the neck is covered with a 4-5 cm layer of earth. Under the film cover, the neck deepens into the soil by 2 cm.

Growing and caring for queen cells requires increased attention. Weekly weeding will protect the land from weeds, which means that the crop will have good opportunity accelerate your growth. Next milestone is watering the plant. It is performed warm water, watering the bushes under the root. Do not forget about antifungal methods that must be performed during the flowering period of the plant.

If the bow went into the arrow, then you have done a quality care. Now it is important to save the onion arrows so that you can collect the seeds. In order for them not to fall from their own weight, it is recommended to tie the greens to a vertical or horizontal support, which can be iron pegs or a stretched strong thread.

Growing onions to collect planting material will not be a hassle if all procedures are done on time. In addition to tying and watering onions, you need to know how to speed up ripening and how to collect onion seeds. The arrows need to be cut with a sharp knife exactly at the moment when the seed boxes begin to open. The cut material is removed to the attic or veranda for ripening. It is advisable to put a canvas under the arrows so that the seeds that ripen can fall onto the fabric. This will make it easier for you to collect the nigella after it hatches.

To separate high-quality seeds from empty ones, they can be filled with water for an hour. good seed will settle to the bottom, and the spoiled will float on the surface, so it is easy to remove. After the selection of planting material, the nigella is subjected to drying with further cleaning in a box or a rag bag for further storage. Do not forget to indicate the date and variety of the onion crop on the onion box.

Agricultural technology for growing onions

It would seem that planting and caring for onions in the open field is not difficult, but during cultivation you need to choose a place where the onions can give the maximum yield, and in order to do this, you need to know what kind of soil the onion likes and whether it is in your garden. In fact, this question can only arise for people who have recently taken up dacha business, because an avid gardener knows that you need to grow onions on the sunny side. Therefore, first of all, in sunny weather, look where the sun's rays fall, and mark the place for planting the bulbs there.

How to grow a large crop? Choose land where crops such as zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkins, tomatoes or legumes grew last year. This soil is full useful vitamins, which are useful for growing onions. In addition, those who place a bed with cabbage or carrots during the planting of seed material next to the garden bed can boast of large grown onions in the open field.

Reasons for shooting onions

You now know how to grow onions in your summer cottage, but some gardeners have a problem with arrows. Luke, or rather, the turnip, does not like flowering, because it begins to take everything nutrients, which leads to a decrease in the root crop and to a change in its shape. Therefore, such a crop must be processed first after harvest, otherwise it will spoil.

The main reason is improper storage of bulbs before planting. Each variety of onion has its own norms. temperature regime during storage and if they are violated, then the onion perceives this as a signal and slowly begins to grow. Also, our practical tips will help to reduce the shooting of the bow:

• the bow will go to the arrow if it is planted in the ground, the temperature of which has not warmed up to 20 degrees;
• for planting, choose only dense bulbs of medium or small size;
• water the seedlings only with warm water, which has had time to settle in a container.

What to do if the bow still went to the arrow? The main thing is not to get upset and gently pinch them at the root so that nutrients do not enter this pipe. It is advisable to grow such onions with arrow formation better on a feather, but some cooks manage to collect and use arrows in the kitchen, adding to dishes or preparing blanks for the winter from them.

Varieties of onions

Varieties and names of onions have no boundaries, and for each earthly belt you can find your own varieties of onions. It is always important for experienced gardeners growing onion crops to know what grows in their garden and what this or that variety is called. Therefore, we decided to briefly tell you what varieties are and how they differ from each other. And let's start with sweet varieties.

Sweet varieties of onions are often added to salads, because they are the salad type, because they contain only 7% sugar and a minimum amount of essential oils, which are responsible for the bitterness of the bulbs. This onion is not left for storage and they try to immediately eat it, because it quickly deteriorates and good properties in bed or long transportation is not endowed. How to grow sweet varieties? Seedling method in open ground. Unlike other species, sweet bulbs rarely seed, so it is much more difficult for them to reproduce. Sweet onions are grown only for turnips, sometimes picking greens in growing season. The most popular onion varieties include:

• comet;
• Spanish;
• Kutnovsk;
• kaba.

Semi spicy varieties onion crops are more mature if you know what to do after collecting the heads and how to prepare them for wintering. The structure of the fruit is not dense in a thin skin, which increases the chance of injury to the bulbs during harvest. By the way, it is also worth noting that this type of onion has a good yield and is grown in a seedless way. During the experiments, onions grew well in all conditions. To the best varieties include:

• spool;
• carmen;
• danilovsky 301.

Sharp varieties are ready to bring a large and large harvest, if you know how to feed the plant to accelerate growth. Bulbs are considered long-term, they can lie all winter and not deteriorate. Such a crop will go for salting and cooking, even fresh it is often consumed. Nowadays, for some reason, they are used to storing onions in the cellar, and our ancestors always decorated their houses with onions. They say that spicy varieties of onions will protect the house from evil spirits and diseases, if they are in the hut. Well-dried onions can be tamped into nets, or braided into braids, looking at a photo from the Internet. The varieties for sale include:

• aleko;
• Ufa local;
• Timiryazevsky.

All species are mostly flat-round, and the white bulb is hidden in a golden husk. However, breeders did not stop there and brought out several more non-standard varieties that differ in color and shape. Among them, elongated bulbs are often found, these include varieties such as:

• Bamberger;
• Sturon;
• Shaman.

If we talk about the non-standard color of onion scales and fruits in general, then the following varieties occupy the first places in sales:

• Bombay;
• Red Baron;
• Stardust.

If you didn’t manage to harvest or save the crop the first time, then you should not stop trying to grow onions. It is better to take into account any mistakes that you made during cultivation and re-sow seeds or nigella in open ground for best results. In our article, we have described all possible ways growing and caring for large bulbs, so read the material carefully before planting bulbs in your garden. We wish you a good harvest and good mood.