Not only for beauty, but also for medicinal properties valued catharanthus. This is a seemingly ordinary, but interesting culture, characterized by pretty flowers and rich green foliage. It blooms regularly, one might say relentlessly. And although the flowers are very simple, their quantity and accuracy cannot but delight.

plant description

flower catharanthus

Kataranthus is a species of herbaceous and semi-shrub plants. Belongs to the Kutrov family. In the wild, it grows in countries with a tropical climate. In nature, catharanthus can grow up to 1.5 meters in height, but ornamental species are usually more compact, up to 60 cm. It is grown as indoor or garden plant. Usually an annual, but some growers manage to grow it as perennial.

The root system is taproot, well developed, has a strong smell. The central root grows up to 30 cm, there are also many adventitious roots. The stems are erect, but branched at the top, fleshy. Young shoots are green, becoming woody over time. The leaves are glossy, oblong, there are a lot of them on the bush. The length of the leaf is up to 7 cm, the color is dark green.

Flowers solitary. Petals come in a wide variety of colors: pink, white, lilac, blue-violet, orange. In the center of the bud there is a peephole in a contrasting color. After flowering, a fruit appears - a sickle-shaped two-leaf, inside which there are elongated seeds.

Kataranthus blooms very profusely from May to October. On the one hand, this is good, because the plant pleases with color throughout all the sunny months. But everything has its price. After such a long flowering, the catharanthus comes to complete exhaustion, and it is very difficult to make it bloom in the second year. Therefore, it is often grown as annual crop with one-time, but long flowering.

Types and varieties of catharanthus

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In nature, there are no more than 8 types of catharanthus, but for home growing only pink catharanthus is suitable. All existing varieties and hybrids sold in stores and flower markets come from this species. They differ in size, color of buds and some other characteristics.

• Cataranthus Pacifica - this is a whole variety. It grows in a bush up to 30 cm in height and up to 20 cm in diameter. It blooms early, it is not demanding in care. The flowers are large with a clearly distinguishable eye in the middle. It is used not only as a balcony or indoor plant, but also for landscaping flower beds, paths. Depending on the color of the petals, it is divided into several varieties: White, Burgundy, Ice Pink, Epricot.
• Catharanthus Aristocrat grows up to 50 cm in height. Flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. The color of the buds can be the most diverse from white to dark red. There is an eye in the middle. Grown as a garden or house plant.
• cooler - variety series of catharanthus. Plants up to 40 cm tall, branching. Flowers round, up to 5 cm in diameter. Depending on the color of the buds, they are divided into varieties: Red, Grape, Pepermint. The core is always contrasting.
• First Kiss - low bush up to 40 cm in height. Crown is very bright. Color shades are very diverse. Differs in compactness, accuracy, pleasant appearance.

Interesting!

It was the catharanthus of the First Kiss variety series that won prestigious awards at flower shows in the USA and Canada.

• The Cascade variety series includes many varieties that differ in color: Merzhenta, Cherry, Titan, Deep Rose, Shelf Dot and others. These are ampelous catharanthus growing up to 15 cm. They have long shoots that can spread along the floor, hang from pots or even curl (if directed) along poles, arbors.

How to care for catharanthus at home?

Caring for a catharanthus

This is not to say that caring for a catharanthus at home causes a lot of inconvenience or problems. This is not a capricious plant, you just need to get used to it.

• Humidity is very important. If it falls below 60%, it is recommended to spray the flower or install an open container of water near it. Spraying is carried out as needed, but there is one caveat. The leaves respond to this procedure with gratitude, but the drops leave burns on the petals.
• Lighting should be diffused. Fits west and east windows. In winter, artificial lighting is done in the apartment, otherwise the stems will begin to stretch.
• In summer and spring, in the apartment where the catharanthus grows, it should be + 20 ... + 25 degrees Celsius. In winter, you can reduce the temperature to +15 degrees.

All parts of the catharanthus plant are poisonous, therefore home care is carried out exclusively with gloves!

• Watering is carried out regularly, so that the earthen ball does not dry out. The flower does not like dryness, so the ground should always be wet 2-3 cm deep. In the summer they water often, and in the fall, if there is a desire to leave the crop for 2 years, it is worth reducing watering and simply maintaining high humidity and an acceptable temperature.
• In order for flowering to be plentiful and long, it is worth feeding the plant. Feed once a week. Usually fertilizer is simply mixed with water in the right proportion (indicated on the package). As for the type of fertilizer, it is better to take what is for flowering plants. After flowering, catharanthus is fed every 2 weeks in a low dosage. And from October to February, feeding is completely stopped.
• Pruning is carried out in the spring, after the plant has survived the winter, regained strength (if a perennial is grown). Pagons are cut by a third. Dried, damaged branches are also removed. The crown is forming. During flowering, you also need to monitor the flower - all dried flowers, pagons must be removed in a timely manner.
• When diseases or pests appear, the plant is treated with fungicides or insecticides, and care standards are adjusted as necessary (watering, lighting, temperature, top dressing).

Reproduction of catharanthus

You can propagate the catharanthus by dividing the bush, cuttings and seeds. First you need to consider the first two methods, which are the most popular.

When propagated by cuttings near the flower, green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots. You can root them in the substrate or water. Water is usually taken settled or boiled with growth stimulants. After immersing the cuttings, they are placed in a warm place and waiting for the roots to appear. Water is added as needed. When the roots appear, you can transplant the petiole into the ground. If the cuttings are rooted in the substrate, then it is necessary to cover them with a film and wait until signs of growth appear. As needed, they are watered, ventilated. And only when visible growth appears, can it be transplanted into separate containers.

When dividing a bush, it is necessary in the spring when transplanting a plant to divide the roots into 2-3 parts. The division is carried out with a sharp knife or scissors, so as not to damage the plant. After pruning, you need to lubricate the cut points with crushed coal, and then plant each sprout in a separate pot.

Before separating the bush with a knife, the tool must be well disinfected!

Growing a catharanthus

Catharanthus seeds are usually purchased at flower shops. Sowing is carried out at any time, but about 3 months should pass before flowering from the moment of sowing, so they are usually sown in early spring so that the bush blooms by May.

Seeds collected from the catharanthus after flowering may be immature. By the next season, they ripen only in tropical conditions. So, in order to get your flower seeds, you need to keep the conditions close to the tropics all autumn and winter, then it is possible that the seeds will ripen by spring.

Before sowing, the seeds are treated with potassium permanganate and epin so that they germinate quickly and do not get sick. They need to be sown in nutrient soil to a depth of 1 cm. Humidification is carried out only with a spray gun, and then the container with seeds is covered with a lid or film (transparent). Crops are placed in a warm place.

After a week, you can see the sprouts, then the container is transferred to a bright place. The temperature is maintained within +23…+26 degrees. Airing is carried out once a day - in the morning. For about a month, the sprouts grow roots, then grow. And only after 4 leaves have appeared, they dive into separate pots.

Catharanthus transplant

The catharanthus is usually transplanted when it is grown as a perennial. The procedure is carried out annually - in the spring. When transplanting, it is important to take care of the land. It should be loose, fertile. If you take a purchased one, then the one for geraniums will do. If we talk about a pot, then it makes no sense to plant a flower in small containers. Quarantus grows quickly, so it is recommended to take more than an average pot in relation to the plant, so that there is a lot of space after transplantation, otherwise after six months the bush will have nowhere to grow.

Transplantation is carried out by transshipment, so as not to damage the roots. A new earth is filled up, similar in composition to the former. Transplantation may also be required throughout the year if the plant has grown strongly and the roots have nowhere to grow. As a rule, this process is characterized by yellowing of the lower leaves and bulging of the roots from holes in the bottom of the pot.

Kataranthus is an unpretentious and very pretty flower, which is better known as the pink periwinkle, feels great in the garden in the flower bed, containers, and also in pots on the windowsills. The plant is small, compact, branchy and, importantly, fast growing and easy to propagate. But in order for the catharanthus to please the eye with its impeccable flowering for a longer time, you still need to know some rules for caring for it.

To do this, it is best to take one part of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leafy soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if there is no excess of salts in it. For growing in pots, you can use the earth for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage, using fine expanded clay.

Like all plants, pink catharanthus loves water. Therefore, it should be watered regularly, but in no case should it be flooded, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if the flower pot is not on a pallet with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out excess water from the pallet.

Flower growers who have pink periwinkle growing in the garden are well aware that in a rainy, too wet summer, plant growth slows down. A flower that is constantly flooded, if it also grows in too dense soil, may suddenly die due to rotting of the roots.

However, the earthy coma should not be brought to dryness. In some varieties of plants, lack of moisture leads to curling of the leaves. The leaves curl up into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Abundant watering - and in an hour the leaves will unwind again.

So that in rainy weather the catharanthus does not suffer from excessive moisture, do not plant it too crowded. It should also not be too crowded to plant plants in a container: after all, spraying is a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Suitable fertilizer for roses. home flower will thank you for this especially spectacular flowering.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet ground, then, on the contrary, it welcomes high humidity. Spray the flower more often, in winter it is better to do this with warm water. Also, make sure you have ventilation.

If the catharanthus grows in the house, then it should stand in a bright place. The more light, the better. In case of lack of lighting, the stems will stretch, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also be reduced. The east and west windows are great places to grow catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. Indoor temperature should not fall below 5-8 degrees. The optimal time is 15-30.

On the street to the bright sun, it is better to accustom the catharanthus gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Draft and cold wind can destroy the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is a distant relative for our familiar periwinkle, but, unlike it, it will not be able to spend the winter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing on the street will die with the onset of frost. So if you want to next year to admire exactly the same variety of catharanthus, you need to break the cuttings and root them, transferring them to warm house. Even indoor catharanthus in summer it is better to take it out to the balcony and put it in a bright place there. Let it "breathe" with fresh air.

You need to repot the plant often, every year, because the plant is fast-growing. Some even consider it a disadvantage. A plant growing in a pot, stretched out over the winter, needs to be cut every spring so that it bushes better. If the plant has become too stretched, violating the intended picture with its appearance, then you can cut it slightly in the summer. But we must remember that the flowers on the cut stem will appear only after two to three weeks. The main stem will become tree-like.

Although the catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows in a house or in its homeland), it is not worth keeping it at home for more than three years. It is better to rejuvenate the plant by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, then the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (At good care leaves reach seven centimeters, and flowers - five centimeters).

Pinch a flower planted in a flower bed as mercilessly as an indoor one, once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such a merciless pinching, the flower bed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stems, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers. Although it must be admitted that scientists have bred varieties in which branching is genetically incorporated.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. Eighty alkaloids contained in periwinkle rose is not a joke to you. Skin irritation may occur, so it is better to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and blooming profusely, we must do the following:

• Water moderately, but regularly (not flooding).
• Spray frequently.
• Plant the plant in loose soil in a bright place.
• Repot every year.
• Prune annually in the spring.
• Fertilize three times a month in spring, summer and autumn.

If you fulfill all these simple care requirements, then the catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, will surely decorate your garden and house with its flowers in gratitude for the care.

Catharanthus seeds can be bought online, you can - in regular store, or you can collect it yourself from your plant to sow them next year. But, we must honestly admit that only an experienced grower can collect seeds from a catarthus on his own. It's all about a temperate climate: in its conditions, they simply do not tie.

But on the windowsill it is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then seeds can be sown for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunias, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First, water the earth, wait until the water is absorbed, and only then proceed to sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is about 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This official version sowing seeds. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, one can conclude that even without a film, the seeds also germinate perfectly. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not overmoisten when you remove the film.

The sprouts that have appeared remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear to the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first pick is carried out if the plant has already had four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them into the open ground together, so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to separate these bushes, then the woven roots will break, and the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down in growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Kataranthus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the ground with a flowering rug.

If you don’t have seeds, but it is possible to get a cutting, then growing in such a vegetative way will also not be special work. The cuttings should not be stiff. Apical green cuttings are suitable for propagation of the periwinkle in a vegetative way. They take root perfectly in water, especially if a few drops of a stimulant are added there. And you can plant cuttings immediately in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in spring after pruning, and in autumn, cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature, in order for the rooting of the cuttings to be successful, must be at least twenty degrees.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check if aphids have attacked it. Also, a spider mite and a scale insect can encroach on a flower. If this happened indoors, then the air for the flower is too dry. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat by special means. Not bad in this case, a soapy solution helps, which can also be used to process the leaves without harm to the plant. Also brown rust can attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered from below with "pustules".

Caring for a catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to watch:

• If the leaves become soft, turn yellow and die off, this means that there is too much direct sunlight.
• If the tips of the leaves dry and turn yellow, then the plant does not have enough moisture in the air. This happens in the winter when the heating is on.
• If the yellowed lower leaves fall off, and the rest of the foliage is bright and green, you can not be scared - this is a natural process.
• Few flowers - cold air. The higher the temperature, the more abundant the catharanthus blooms.
• If the roots braid the whole earth in a pot, then the plant will stop blooming, the leaves will dry and turn yellow.

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Caring for a catharanthus

Well-lit places are suitable for Quaranthus, but without the scorching rays of the sun. An excellent option for a catharanthus would be eastern or western window sills.

On the south window, you will definitely need shading, since the bright sun can cause burns on the leaves.

In winter, it is recommended to move the plant to the southern windowsill, because due to the lack of light, the shoots stretch out and lose their decorative effect. At this time, additional lighting with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps is welcome.

In the summer, the catharanthus will feel comfortable at 20-25 degrees. In winter, the temperature of the content should be reduced to 15-18 degrees.

Since catharanthus is a representative of the tropics, a strong drop in temperature is fatal for him. Therefore, in winter the temperature should not fall below 8 degrees.

Quaranthus loves Fresh air, therefore, when warm weather sets in, it can be taken out to the balcony, loggia or garden. In this case, it is necessary to choose a place protected from the scorching rays of the sun, rain and drafts. With the first cold snaps in August, the plant should be taken into the house.

The flower tolerates temperature fluctuations relatively normally, but it is better to provide it with the most comfortable conditions. Then he will delight with abundant lush flowering.

In spring and summer catharanthus needs abundant watering - 3-4 times a week. The soil in the pot should always be slightly damp.

in winter the regularity of the procedure is reduced to 1 time per week. Before the next moistening, the top layer of soil should dry well.

Watering the catharanthus, it is necessary to maintain a balance. For a plant, both waterlogging, which is fraught with rotting of the roots, and drying out of the earth, which can provoke twisting and falling of leaves, are detrimental. Therefore, water from the pan should be poured out 20-30 minutes after watering. It is impossible to allow complete drying of the earthen coma.

Water for irrigation should be defended for several days, it should be room temperature.

For planting a catharanthus, you need nutritious light soil. You can buy ready-made substrate for flowering plants in the store.

At self-cooking sand, peat, soddy soil and humus should be mixed in equal proportions.

Another option is soddy, leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:2:1:0.5. Before planting, the mixture should be disinfected by spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The pot must have holes for draining. At the bottom it is necessary to lay out a 4-centimeter layer of drainage.

Catharanthus grown as flyers are fed once a week. Perennials should be fertilized every 2 weeks from March to September. Feeding is not needed between October and February.

The dose should be made 2 times weaker than indicated on the package.

Quaranthus grown as flyers need more frequent feeding than those that are planned to be kept for the next year.

Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil after watering.. Do not exceed the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the packaging, as this can cause root burns.

Sometimes you can alternate mineral supplements with organic. As the latter, an ash solution is perfect (20 grams per 2 liters of water). Once a month, instead of root dressing, you can spray on the leaf. For this, it is recommended to use the drug Epin Extra.

Quaranthus prefers high humidity environment– not less than 60%. To ensure such conditions, you can use several methods:

It is prudent to approach the spraying of catharanthus. On the one hand, the plant loves high humidity, on the other hand, drops on the flowers are undesirable. During the flowering period, spraying should be carried out very carefully.

In winter, in a room with dry air, you can spray a dormant pink periwinkle every day, in the morning or in the evening. For this, warm settled water and a fine-grained spray gun are used.

In the spring, before transplanting, the shoots of the plant should be shortened by 1/3. Thus, the catharanthus can be rejuvenated and a lush flowering bush can be formed.

Cut pieces of shoots of catharanthus can be used for propagation.

Pruning is necessary for the catharanthus to form a compact bush, lush flowering and plant rejuvenation.

Quaranthus, grown as a perennial, is recommended to be cut in the spring, because during the winter the plant is very stretched and loses its decorative appearance. It is recommended to trim the shoots by 1/3. If the plant is strongly stretched in summer, it is recommended to carry out the forming pruning by pinching the ends of the shoots. The cut stems will release new buds after a few weeks.

Pruned shoots can be used to propagate periwinkle using cuttings. Although the plant can be grown as a perennial indoors, it is not recommended to keep one specimen for longer than 3 years.

This is due to the fact that the lower leaves on the shoots dry up and fall off, and the flower "goes bald", loses its attractiveness and decorative appearance. Young catharanthus updated with cuttings look much more presentable.

Brown rust can affect the catharanthus, which is recognized by the presence of pustules on the back of the leaves.

Damaged parts are removed, and the plant is treated with a fungicide, such as Fundazol.

Of the pests, aphids, spider mites, and scale insects pose a threat to the pink periwinkle.

You can fight pests mechanical removal using a soapy solution or treatment with insecticides: Actellik, Fitoverm or Nurell-D.

Prevention of the appearance of insects is proper care, in particular, maintaining high humidity.

As a rule, problems with catharanthus arise due to improper care or adverse conditions of detention:

• The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, become soft and die off, mainly due to an excess of sunlight;
• If few buds appear on the catharanthus, then it is cold. The higher the temperature, the more magnificent the flowering;
• Yellowing and curling of the leaves indicates insufficient watering;
• The stems are stretched with a lack of light;
• The tips of the leaves dry out due to low humidity;
• Poor growth and poor flowering indicates a shortage nutrients in the soil;
• The catharanthus can drop buds when there is a lack of light or moisture.

Quarantus is propagated by seeds and cuttings.

seeds sown in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand to a depth of 0.5 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene and placed in a dark, warm (20-24 degrees) place.

After the emergence of seedlings - after 5-7 days - the greenhouse is taken out to a bright place. The earth is moistened as needed.

After 10 days, the film is removed, and after 20-30 days, the seedlings dive into separate pots.

cuttings, 10-12 cm long, cut in spring and summer. The lower leaves are cut off, the cut is processed with a root. Cuttings are planted in a mixture of perlite and peat, covered with a film and kept in diffused light at a temperature of 20-22 degrees.

After propagation of the catharanthus by cuttings, the film is removed after 3 weeks. After another 7 days, young catharanthus land on permanent place. You can plant 2-3 cuttings in one pot.

Periwinkle grows very quickly, so it needs frequent transplants. Young catharanthus require several transfers to new pots over the summer. Those plants that are grown as perennials need an annual spring transplant (in March - early April).

Timely transplantation is a guarantee good growth and abundant flowering periwinkle. If the roots braid the whole earthen ball, the buds stop appearing, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. In view of this, timely transplantation is very important for catharanthus.

The best way to transplant catharanthus is transshipment. Due to the fact that the earth ball and roots are not damaged, the plant quickly adapts to new conditions and continues to grow and develop well.

A day or two before transplanting, the periwinkle is not watered to strengthen the earthen ball. At the bottom of the new pot is placed good layer drainage from expanded clay, clay shards or broken brick. The plant is moved to a new container, and the free space in it is covered with new earth and lightly compacted.

Before sowing, it is advised to soak the seeds for 40 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per 0.5 liter of water), then dry them for several hours on a paper towel.

Seeds are sown in bowls or containers filled with a moistened mixture of peat, sand and earth. They deepen by 1-2 cm, after which the soil is slightly moistened with a fine-grained spray gun. The container is covered with an opaque film and placed in a dark place. Optimum temperature for germination - 23-25 ​​degrees.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 7-10 days., after which the film is removed, the container is transferred to a well-lit place (without the scorching sun), and the temperature of the content decreases slightly.

If in the future the catharanthus will be grown in a pot, then 2-3 copies are planted in one container filled with a substrate for adult plants. So the periwinkle will look more lush and attractive. If the landing is made on a flower bed, then the flowers are planted one at a time.

Now you know everything about caring for catharanthus at home, as well as growing a plant from seeds from sowing to flowering.

Photo of catharanthus in the process of care at home and in natural environment:

Quarantus - care and reproduction at home

Everyone who has seen a catharanthus indoor plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern islands of the Mediterranean into the house. Its name from Greek translates as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many flower growers consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with endless flowering almost all year round, and requires minimal care from them after planting.

The catharanthus flower (Catharanthus) belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and semi-shrub plants of the Kutrovye family (Apocynaceae). In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it's impossible to list them all. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most common. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, did botanists begin to attribute pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its upright stems are fleshy, branch at the tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20-30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific smell. Young roots lack root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong in shape, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have the correct shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is a peephole, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately blooming flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is beyond praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped two-leaflet, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorativeness. Its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, coughs and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research has shown that indeed this flower contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

• poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
• fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
• diseases of the teeth and gums;
• broncho-pulmonary diseases;
• hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! May occur side effects, allergic reactions, burns. There are contraindications. It is possible to use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

Quaranthus Aristocrat. This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrast eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating them with borders in flower beds and paths.

Quaranthus Pacifica. This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. It is characterized by early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, a characteristic eye in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

• Pacific Burgundy - has rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye;
• Pacific White - has white flowers with a red eye;
• Pacifica Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
• Pacifica Ice Pink - has pale pink flowers with a red eye.

In the eighties of the last century, a number of new spectacular varieties of catharanthus appeared. Here are some of the popular ones so far:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrast eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include:

• Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
• Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
• Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseriya First Kiss (First Kiss, First kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have a beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of flowers. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At flower growers' competitions in North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular, the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade (Cascade). Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. blooms large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Quaranthus ampelous Titan. Long whips hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is excellent for growing in pots.

• White - with snow-white flowers;
• Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
• Bark cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
• Bark cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
• Bark cascade Mejent - with flowers of gray - burgundy color.

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you have a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Kataranthus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on the sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and substrate. Quaranthus prefer high humidity. If humidity readings fall below 60%, spraying of the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves is necessary. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the twisting leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and soon water, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water before it dries upper layer soil to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, in the autumn winter period reduce watering significantly. Keep the earth ball slightly damp. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. It is not necessary to place the flower pot on the windowsill itself. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by scattered sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upwards, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. This is in the spring and summer for the long-term maintenance of the flower. In winter, it is necessary for him to find a cooler place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because he has no place on the windowsill, next to heating appliances. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not decrease at all - a long decrease in it, below 10 degrees, may not endure the catharanthus.

If you are not going to keep the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundantly it will bloom for you. Moreover, the flower feels great in the warm season in the open air. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the catharanthus pot can be put on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower planting must be protected from rain, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living quarters. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Good catharanthus will grow in a loose lung fertile soil. Purchased land for flowering houseplants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare the soil mixture on your own from leaf and sod land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive top dressing. If your flower is an annual, it is fed once a week, adding liquid fertilizer for flowering indoor plants in water for irrigation. Suitable liquid fertilizer for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering will be preserved as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, top dressing should be done during flowering less often, once every 2 weeks, and at a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, top dressing should be stopped altogether.

Quaranthus is a fast growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots won't fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away, so that it is enough for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, root system develops well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Lay a good layer of drainage, 3-4 cm, on the bottom of the planting tank. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Do not forget to add a little humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3 - 5 cm larger and wider than before.

For a fast growing plant like catharanthus, pruning is necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots stretched out over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning in early spring will rejuvenate the flower, give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But you will have to constantly monitor the decorative appearance of your pet during flowering. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be cleaned regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Look around. Do desired crop. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm more than before. Put drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Do the transplant by transshipping the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sour. Keep this in mind and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to repot your flower more than once a year. If during the active phase of flowering the lower leaves suddenly began to turn yellow and the flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If you regularly follow all the rules of good flower care, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, the shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

After the enchanting flowering, the forces of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again the next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after flowering is over, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, and lighting of its wintering place cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Purchase catharanthus seeds in specialty stores. Their seeds during the summer flowering will not have time to ripen. Their natural ripening is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds - be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter at room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, in terms of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The soil is gently moistened with a spray gun with warm settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two shoots will appear. Containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Air once a day, preferably in the morning. Sprouts for a long time, about a month, sit at the same level - they grow roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, immediately take a pot of a large size than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to the preparation of the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, soddy soil and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you use ready-made soil, choose a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots near the catharanthus. Choose the method of rooting the cutting - in water or in the substrate.

Water for rooting is taken settled or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. Put the glass in a bright warm place. Waiting for the appearance of the spine. As needed, add water. Roots will appear very soon. Then the stalk is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Take care of like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under the film. Air plantings from time to time, as the soil dries, water them. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with a margin, in case of their death.

Harvesting and planting cuttings is best in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But you can do it in the fall too. The optimum temperature for rooting catharanthus cuttings is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus cuttings.

This method of reproduction is used during the transplantation of an adult plant into new pots. Usually, it happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the incisions with crushed activated carbon. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

If you are planting your indoor flower in a summer cottage in a flower bed for the summer, then you need to think about how to save the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even mild, on the street. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Trim the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a spacious pot to fit the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for the winter in the apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. It does not need to be watered in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the rhizome of the catharanthus can be planted again in a flower bed.

You can always determine by the appearance of the plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. The catharanthus, by its appearance, itself signals the unfavorable conditions of its maintenance. The plant must be monitored, and, if necessary, take measures to correct their mistakes.

Consider the most common problems of growing catharanthus.

• Small dark bumps or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are signs of the disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or when transplanting, a heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about indoor flower diseases). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
• The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a window sill that is not protected from the sun. Set the flower to the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
• The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this is due to the central heating. The pot must be placed in a tall pan with wet expanded clay and set aside from the heaters. Next to the flower, you can place a wide container of water. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
• The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for a catharanthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
• There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually happens if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, brighter place - and he will thank you with abundant flowering.
• The leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it's time to transplant it into a wider and deeper flowerpot. It will take a little time, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
• The quarantus began dropping buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
• Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: whether it is warm, light, and whether any insects bite it.

We introduced you to the catharanthus indoor flower. Believe that you will spend less time caring for him than reading this article! This is a completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to it from the grower. Kataranthus is good because this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows quickly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules for caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your house, ready to decorate the interior of your house all year round.

Catharantus (Catharantus) is a plant of the Kutrovye family. Homeland - Madagascar.

Under natural conditions, this plant is widely distributed in the tropical forests of India, Indochina, the Philippines and Cuba.

The name "kataranthus" comes from the words "katharos" and "anthos", which means "impeccable flower" in translation.

As you can see in the photo, the catharanthus flower can be both an indoor and a garden plant, and therefore it is widely used in culture:

Botanical description of the cataranthus plant and photo of an indoor flower

Quaranthus as an indoor flower is a perennial or annual, herbaceous, flowering plant with a height of 30 to 60 cm. However, in the natural environment, there are specimens up to 1.5 m in height. Stems are erect with a tendency to branch at the top. The bark on the shoots is smooth, green or pinkish in color.

The leaves are lanceolate, without narrowing to the edge, entire, with a white vein in the middle. They have a smooth, glossy surface and are opposite or nearly opposite. Foliage color is dark green. The length can vary from 2.5 to 8 cm, while the width never exceeds 3 cm.

As you can see from the photo, descriptions of the size of the cataranthus flower are different, but on average mature plant- This is a wide branched bush that can reach 1 m in diameter:

The root system is taproot, - the plant has a very powerful main root, the size of which reaches 30 - 35 cm. A large number of small lateral roots are attached to it. The underground part of the flower has a rather sharp specific smell.

The botanical description of the flowers of the catharanthus is somewhat reminiscent of phloxes, but, unlike the latter, they are located in the axils of the leaves on the tops of the shoots and are practically odorless. They can grow singly, or they can form small inflorescences of 2-3 flowers. The color is white or pink, 3 cm in diameter. Most often, the petals are plain, but there are varieties that have a contrasting eye. For example, when the central part is maroon and the edges are white, etc. The flower has a regular five-petal shape with a flat corolla. The pharynx is covered with thyroid hairs. Blooms profusely all summer.

fetus this plant It is a sickle-shaped two-leaflet, inside which there are up to 10 seeds. However, natural conditions and open ground are necessary for the formation of a full-fledged fruit. When growing a catharanthus at home, seeds do not appear.

An important part of the description of a plant such as catharanthus is the toxicity of all its parts, which is why you need to be very careful when growing a flower at home. Precautions should be taken by placing the pot out of the reach of children and pets.

Popular types and varieties of catharanthus: photo and description

Exists big variety varieties and species of the cataranthus plant, which differ in size and color of flowers. The most popular are K. pink, periwinkle pink. All varieties and hybrids of catharanthus that are used in culture are varieties of pink cataranthus.

pink catharanthus (C. roseus). This is an evergreen shrub that is very widespread in Europe, although its natural origin is the forests of India, Indochina and the islands of Madagascar. This type of cataranthus flower has oblong-lanceolate, entire leaves with a white vein in the center, typical for plants of this genus. Its height is no more than 60 cm, and the length of the leaves reaches a maximum of 7 cm. The flowers are pink in color with a yellow or raspberry eye. Cultural forms of this species may have a greater variety of shades of petals. This plant is different long duration flowering - in a warm climate it can bloom all year round, and in a colder climate it can bloom all spring and summer.

Cataranthus Pacifica(Pacifica). As can be seen from the photo, this variety of catharanthus has a relatively small size- the maximum flower growth is 25 - 30 cm, and the crown diameter is only 20 cm. An important characteristic is the unpretentiousness and early flowering of the plant. All varieties of this variety have a typical contrast eye in the center of large flowers.

Quaranthus "Pacific Burgundy". This variety is characterized by rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye.

Quaranthus "Pacific Epricot". The flowers have an apricot color and a red center.

Quaranthus "Pacific White". A white variety with a red central part.

Quarantus "Aristocrat". Semi-shrub of medium height - reaches no more than 50 cm in height. It differs in rather large flowers with a diameter of up to 5 cm. The color of the petals can vary from rich red to white. In the center of the flowers stands out a contrast eye. The variety can be grown both as a houseplant and as a garden plant.

Variety series "First Kiss" (First Kiss). This variety series of catharanthus is very popular and has an expressive appearance. The flowers are very rich and large. The variety series includes 13 varieties with different shades of petals. Among them, it is worth noting specimens with a purple-blue color, which were bred relatively recently. The plant is quite compact - the height varies from 30 to 40 cm.

Varieties "Cascade" (Cascade) and "Mediterranean" (Mediterranean). These are low ampelous catharanthus that never grow above 10 - 15 cm. However, their shoots can be up to 150 cm in size, but they hang down or spread along the ground. The flowers are large - up to 5 cm. The color is very unusual for cataranthus - the petals closer to the edge can change the shade to a lighter or darker one.

How to grow a catharanthus: environmental conditions

In order to grow a profusely flowering catharanthus, you need to be as attentive as possible to the conditions of the environment in which the flower resides.

The plant is photophilous, but requires protection from direct sunlight. It is best to provide him with diffused light. The flower will feel good on the windowsills in the east or west of the house. However, the catharanthus can also be kept on the eastern side, if you take care of shading at lunchtime of the day. The flower does not have to be placed exactly on the windowsill - it will also feel quite good on a shelf with slightly diffused lighting. If during the cold season the catharanthus remains in a warm room, it also needs good lighting. It is advisable to put fluorescent lamps near it. Otherwise, the shoots will stretch upwards, and the plant will lose its decorative appearance.

When growing a flower such as a catharanthus, certain rules must be observed. temperature conditions in room. During the period of active growth and flowering, the plant will feel best at a temperature of 20 - 25 ° C. Usually this period occurs in spring and summer. In winter, the catharanthus can be in a cool room with a temperature of 10-12 ᵒС. Prolonged holding of a flower in conditions below 10 degrees can kill it. If there is no need to keep the plant as a perennial, and the owner is going to throw it away after flowering, then the catharanthus needs to be provided with as warm conditions and good lighting as possible. In this case, it will bloom profusely. In summer, you can take it out to the balcony, terrace, but it is necessary to protect the plant from rain. Also, you should not leave a flower pot in a draft, as this can harm the catharanthus. You can move the plant outside as soon as the air temperature rises above 18 degrees. At the first cold snap in August-September, the flower should be returned to the house.

Caring for the catharanthus will be successful if the flower is planted in fertile, light and loose soil, since this factor is one of the decisive ones when growing this plant. You can use a purchased potting mix for flowering houseplants. However, it is easy to make your own. For this, the following components are used: turf and leafy soil, humus, peat, sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1:1. According to the reaction, the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.

Watering and fertilizing catharanthus (with video)

When growing catharanthus at home, careful care for the level of humidity in the air and soil is necessary. This is due to the tropical origin of the flower. In the natural environment, the plant develops in conditions of high humidity and requires the same when grown indoors.

It is important not to forget to constantly spray the air around the catharanthus. Spraying the plant itself should be done very carefully - drops should not fall on the flowers. To increase humidity, you can place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles or place a small container of water next to it.

As shown in the video, it is necessary to water the catharanthus after the top layer of soil has dried out to a depth of 2–3 cm:

However, in no case should the earthen clod be allowed to dry out. Insufficiently moistened soil will be indicated by the twisting of the leaves of the plant. If you notice it in time and resume proper watering, then the foliage will straighten back. Stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil also adversely affect the health of the catharanthus. The flower feels good with a stable average humidity of an earthy coma. In summer, watering is plentiful, in winter - moderate.

In order to achieve a long and abundant flowering, it is necessary to carry out regular intensive feeding of the cataranthus plant. Optimal fertilizer frequency for perennial flower- twice a month. Among what you can feed the catharanthus, you should pay attention to fertilizers for flowering houseplants, especially indoor roses. Also used are complex mineral fertilizers. If the owner is going to keep the flower for only one year, then top dressing should be carried out once a week along with watering.

Given that the catharanthus is a fast-growing branchy plant, it must be constantly cut. This procedure is carried out during transplantation, after the flower has had time to rest over the winter. Elongated stems must be cut with a sharp knife to a third of their length. If you cut more, then this will lead to crushing of the foliage. You should also get rid of damaged and dry shoots. With pruning, you can give the bush the desired shape.

Do I need to pinch the catharanthus and when to do it

The method of pinching the flower of the catharanthus is carried out in order to form a lush crown at the bush and add more branching to it. To do this, carefully pinch the tips of the shoots, which after that will no longer stretch upwards. At the same time, the growth of side branches will increase. This will not only give the crown a magnificent shape, but also add abundance of flowering.

The best time to pinch a catharanthus is during the summer, but this procedure can also be done in the spring. Some growers do this every two weeks throughout the bloom. There is a possibility that the shoots treated in this way will become slightly woody. If the procedure was carried out in the summer, then flowering will appear on them after 2 to 3 weeks. Therefore, there is no unequivocal answer to whether it is actually necessary to pinch the catharanthus, since it depends on the owner's idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe appearance of the flower. This procedure affects only the decorative effect, which is a matter of taste.

How to plant and transplant a catharanthus

Transplantation is carried out once every 2 years for mature plants and once a year for young ones. This frequency is due to the rather rapid growth of the flower. Given this fact, the flower pot must be chosen large and deep enough, since the root system is up to 35 cm in length. Every year you need to pick up a container 3 - 5 cm wider than the previous one. Before planting a catharanthus in a new pot, it is necessary to examine the plant for diseases and carry out an annual pruning. This procedure is carried out in early spring - in March. Transplantation is carried out by transferring the flower, together with the old earthy clod, into a new pot. It is not necessary to get rid of the soil from the previous container for the reason that this will damage the root system of the catharanthus, which may not recover from such stress. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to pour a layer of drainage 3-4 cm deep. This will not allow excessive moisture stagnate in the soil. Expanded clay or pebbles can be used as drainage materials. After that, a small layer of substrate is poured, and the plant is transferred to a new pot. Remaining between the walls and the earthen clod empty place covered with soil of the same composition as in the previous transplant.

There is a chance that the plant will have to be repotted more than once a year. For example, if the lower leaves of the catharanthus began to turn yellow, and the flowers gradually fall off, then the reason for this, most likely, is the filling of the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe earthy coma with roots. In this case, you can observe the bulging of the roots from the drainage holes of the pot. In this case, the flower should immediately be moved to a larger container.

Propagation of catharanthus using cuttings

Flower growers do not recommend growing perennial catharanthus for more than three years. After the expiration of this period, the plant loses its splendor, the leaves and flowers become smaller, the shoots begin to curl. Many even use the flower as an annual plant. For the most part, this is due to the problem of wintering - the perennial needs to provide the correct temperature regime, watering and lighting. At the same time, over the winter, the shoots still stretch and lose their decorative effect. In fact, it is much easier to grow a new plant, which will very soon gain strength for abundant flowering, and will look fresher and healthier.

Reproduction of the catharanthus plant can be carried out in several ways: cuttings, sowing seeds and dividing the bush.

In order to propagate the catharanthus using cuttings, it is necessary to use the apical green shoots of the old plant. You can harvest them both in spring and autumn. The length of the cuttings should be 8 - 10 cm.

Rooting can be done in two ways:

• In water.
• in the substrate.

In the first case, boiled water at room temperature is used. To successfully complete the rooting process, you can add a few drops of any growth stimulator to the vessel. A glass with a handle should be in a warm, bright place. If there is less water, then the glass needs to be filled little by little so that the amount of moisture is kept at the same level. After the formation of roots, it is necessary to plant a catharanthus at home and perform the same care as for an adult plant.

In order to root the cuttings in the substrate, it is necessary to deepen them 2–3 cm into moist soil and cover with a jar or polyethylene. This will create greenhouse conditions. The container is placed in a warm place with good lighting. Planted shoots should be regularly ventilated and sprayed. When the first leaves appear on the cuttings, the shelter can be removed.

How to grow a catharanthus from seeds

Growing catharanthus at home with the help of seeds can be carried out at any time of the year, but it must be taken into account that it will bloom only 2 to 3 months after planting. On the advice of experienced flower growers, this procedure should be carried out in early spring. Seeds are usually bought in special stores, since it is almost impossible to collect them from old plants.

Before sowing, the seeds must be kept for several hours in a solution of potassium permanganate and epin. After that, they are placed in slightly moist soil to a depth of 1 cm. The container is covered with a transparent lid. For this purpose, glass or polyethylene can be used. For maximum germination, the vessel is placed in a warm but dark place. After 1 - 2 weeks, when the first shoots begin to appear, it will be necessary to provide good lighting. To grow a healthy catharanthus from seeds, you need to take care of it as carefully as possible until a full-fledged root system is formed and foliage appears. During this period, the plant is very vulnerable. The optimum temperature for this time should be kept within 22 - 26 degrees. In the morning, seedlings are ventilated and moistened. For about one month, their growth is imperceptible - all the forces of the plants go to the formation of roots. You can plant flowers in individual pots after 3-4 leaves appear. It is advisable to immediately choose a pot big size, as the young plant will develop very quickly.

Why does the catharanthus turn yellow leaves and what to do to get rid of diseases (with photo)

As you know, most diseases of the catharanthus plant are caused by care errors and improper environmental conditions. It is always possible to determine that there are problems with the health of a flower by its appearance.

One of common problems is that the leaves of the catharanthus turn yellow, but far from all beginner flower growers know what to do at the same time. To begin with, it is worth finding out the cause of this symptom, and there may be several of them. For example, if, in combination with yellowing, the catharanthus has lost its shape, wilts and throws off foliage, this may mean that it has been standing on a windowsill unprotected from the sun for a long time. You can correct the mistake by rearranging the flower deep into the room. If only the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, despite the fact that the upper part of the plant looks healthy, then you should not worry - this is a natural process. In the case when the color changes to yellow, starting from the tips of the leaves, then most likely the reason is too low humidity. You can fix the problem by placing a container of water next to the pot, or by using regular spraying. One of the reasons why the leaves of the catharanthus begin to turn yellow may be that the pot is too narrow and the root system has already braided the entire earthen clod. This is determined by the fact that flowering has also stopped, and roots protrude from the drainage holes.

Kataranthus is a tropical perennial shrub, better known to Russian flower growers as pink periwinkle or cayenne jasmine. Representative of the genus evergreens from the kutrov family. Its name in Greek means "pure, clear flower." It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, since in the wild it is found in the forests of Indonesia, Cuba, China, India, and the Philippines. Most scientists agree that the catharanthus came to us from the island of Madagascar, where there are 7 of its species. In wild subtropical forests, the catharanthus bush grows up to 1.5 meters in height. In our climate, the maximum growth of this shrub is 60 cm.

The catharanthus has erect stems branching at the tops. The leaves are oblong, dark green with a white longitudinal vein. The length of the leaf is about 7 cm. During the flowering period, the bush is covered with wheel-shaped flowers. Kataranthus blooms 60-70 days after germination. Flowering is long, until the onset of cold weather. After flowering, a double-leaved fruit with elongated seeds is formed.

IMPORTANT. Parts of the catharanthus contain alkaloids, so you should work with it with gloves so as not to get allergies or poisoning.

Popular varieties of catharanthus and their photos

As a result of interspecific hybridization, breeders have created a decorative series of varieties of catharanthus. The most popular are the following varieties-series:

• Albus is a variety with snow-white flowers.
• Ocellatus - in the center white flower red eye.
• Cooler - the series is distinguished by a variety of flower shades from pink to bright red.
• Parasol- undersized variety(up to 40 cm). Differs in large white flowers with a dark red eye.

Rules for growing catharanthus in open ground

For planting a catharanthus, it is necessary to choose a place as lit and warm as possible.

Cataranthus in temperate climates is considered a houseplant, but recently it can be increasingly found in garden plots. The plant is quite unpretentious, and subject to certain rules for caring for it, you can get enough ornamental plant to decorate the landscape.

Where to grow a flower

A place for a shrub should be chosen as bright and warm as possible, but at the same time direct sunlight should not fall on it for a long time .. It is important to choose a site protected from the winds.

IMPORTANT. Do not plant catharanthus in places where moisture stagnates, in such conditions it will die.

The shrub prefers light and nutritious soil. The ideal composition would be sand, peat, humus and earth in equal parts.

ATTENTION. If on site acidic soil, be sure to make it or add wood ash.

Time of sowing and planting in the ground of cataranthus

Quarantus is grown by seedling method. Sowing seedlings is carried out in February. Seeds are sown in shallow boxes to a depth of 1-2 cm. The containers are covered with glass and placed in a warm, at least 25 degrees, place. Seedlings appear in 2-3 weeks. At this time, they need to be placed in a cooler place. With a lack of lighting, seedlings need to be highlighted with phytolamps. In the phase of 3 leaves, the sprouts dive into separate containers.

Seedlings need to be hardened by walking on the balcony when it gets warm. To form compact, lush bushes, ten-centimeter sprouts are pinched.

Landing in open ground is carried out in late spring, after the onset of real heat. The air temperature for landing should be at least 20 degrees Celsius.

Correct fit

Before planting the catharanthus, dig a good place for planting.

Before planting, the flower bed should be dug up well. It is advisable to add a little expanded clay or fine gravel to it. For planting, they dig a hole and lay a layer of drainage on its bottom. A little soil is poured over the drainage layer.

Caring for a catharanthus plant after planting

Caring for a catharanthus consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning. In the initial period after planting, weeds around the bush must also be removed. As the bush grows, it will be able to fight them on its own.

Required watering and air humidity

You need to water the plant regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. If you notice that the leaves have begun to curl, then the plant does not have enough moisture. At the same time, excess moisture in the soil is contraindicated for the plant. At the same time, it is very important to maintain a high level of humidity in the air. During dry periods, the catharanthus should be sprayed daily, and on especially hot days in the morning and evening.

Coolness and rain are contraindicated for catharanthus. If cold, rainy weather has settled after planting, the plant takes on an oppressed appearance: the stems droop, and the flowers begin to fall off. Help him by setting up a rain cover over him in the form of an awning.

Plant nutrition rules

It is good to feed the catharanthus with a solution of ash

In spring, the catharanthus needs abundant nutrition. It should be fertilized with universal mixtures for decorative flowering plants. Top dressing spend the entire vegetative period every 2 weeks. A solution with fertilizer is poured under the root of the shrub after watering.

Fertilizing with a solution of ash (100 g per 10 liters) has a beneficial effect on the plant. For foliar top dressing, the drug Epin - Extra is suitable. They spray a bush instead of one of the root dressings once a month. With the beginning of autumn, feeding is stopped.

IMPORTANT. Do not overdose minerals in the nutrient solution, it can cause root burns.

shrub pruning

The shrub does not need formative pruning in the summer, as varietal catharanthus independently form a compact, lush bush. At the same time, yellowed, broken shoots should be regularly trimmed. Such sanitary pruning stimulates the growth of new stems, and the plant quickly restores its shape.

In the spring, when transplanting a plant that has wintered in an apartment, the tips of the shoots are cut off in order to stimulate growth for the formation of additional stems. In this way, a beautiful plant shape is obtained, which it will maintain all summer.

Pests, diseases and control measures

Like many garden plants, catharanthus is affected by the following pests: aphids, whiteflies. scale insect, mealybug. It is easy to find them by the condition of the leaves. If a white coating, spots appeared on the leaves, or they suddenly began to curl and dry out, then the plant was attacked by insects. They should be dealt with by spraying with insecticides.

Sometimes the catharanthus is affected by brown rust. Spots appear on the leaves - pustules. The cause of the disease is too high humidity soil or air combined with low temperatures. An additional reason is the lack of nitrogen in the soil. Spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid and feed with nitrogen fertilizer or mullein solution.

Methods of propagation of the flower cataranthus

Quarantus can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings

The shrub propagates in three ways:

1. The division of the bush. It is carried out in the spring when the plant is transferred from the room to the ground. Depending on the size of the root, it can be easily divided into 2-3 parts and planted separately.
2. cuttings. Tops of shoots obtained during spring pruning shrub. The blanks are placed in moist soil and rooted.
3. Sowing seeds. During the summer period, the seeds of the catharanthus do not ripen. To obtain material suitable for sowing, the bush is grown at room conditions. Full-fledged seeds ripen by spring. It is at this time that they are sown in flat boxes filled with nutrient soil. You need to sprinkle the seeds with a layer of no more than 1 cm. After sowing, the container is covered with a film or glass and kept at a temperature of 25-30 degrees. Sprouts appear after 20-25 days.

Organization of wintering

Kataranthus is a heat-loving plant and cannot survive a harsh winter. In the second half of October, the bushes are dug up, having previously cut the branches, and placed in large pots. The containers are covered with a mixture of sand and earth.

The wintering of the catarthus takes place indoors with a temperature of 15-17 degrees. In winter, it does not need to be watered. In such conditions, the bush is kept until the onset of heat. In the spring, the rhizome is planted in a flower bed.

Quaranthus as a garden decoration

Quarantus will be perfectly erased in the flower bed and in the garden

The appearance of this plant is so attractive that it can decorate any corner of the site. Quarantus looks great in a flower bed, as a border. Ampel varieties look spectacular in hanging planters. undersized species can be grown in containers or flowerpots.

Annual flowers can be added as neighbors to the catharanthus. Both matching combinations and contrasting ones are created.

When growing this perennial in the house, it turns into an ever-flowering plant. Keep it in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. The most suitable place is the western or eastern windows. On the north window, the light will not be enough. If the windows in the house are oriented to the south, then it is impossible to keep the catharanthus on the windowsill.

Choose a large pot for growing immediately, as this flower is fast-growing. For planting, a layer of drainage is poured on the bottom of the tank, then it is filled with a substrate consisting of soil, peat and sand in equal amounts. For nutritional value, you can add a little humus.

ATTENTION. If there are children or pets in the house, it is better to refuse to grow catharanthus. All parts of the flower are poisonous and can cause severe poisoning or serious allergic reactions.

Home care consists of watering, spraying and fertilizing. It is impossible to allow the earth to dry out in a pot, from this the plant will slow down growth and flowering. The lack of moisture is immediately reflected in the appearance of the catharanthus - the leaves instantly curl. If this happens, water the flower well and spray it. Water for irrigation and spraying should be taken settled, at room temperature.

Don't let the soil dry out

IMPORTANT. Be sure to drain excess water from the pan when watering so that the roots of the flower do not rot.

Plant transplantation is carried out annually. When transplanting, it is necessary to carry out forming pruning. Every 4-5 years, the plant needs to be “rejuvenated”, that is, the central lignified shoot must be cut and rooted. Without this procedure, the stems are pulled out, and the catharanthus loses its decorative effect.

The day before the transplant, the flower is not watered so that the earthen ball dries and strengthens. It is moved into a new pot by the method of cautious transshipment so that the earth does not crumble from the roots. The flower is placed in a new pot, and the free space of the pot (it should be 5-6 cm) is covered with new soil and rammed.

In summer, it is better to take a catharanthus to a balcony or loggia. At the same time, the plant needs active top dressing - once every two weeks. Any fertilizer for indoor plants will do.

IMPORTANT. When grown in a room, the bush needs mandatory pruning so that it does not grow in one lash.

Possible problems when growing catharanthus

Qataranthus signals unsuitable conditions for its maintenance or non-compliance with the rules for caring for its appearance. Watch the plant carefully and correct your mistakes in time.

• Soft, yellowing leaves- too much sun. In open ground, you need to build some kind of awning for the plant, but it is better to transplant the plant to a place where the rays are scattered. In the house, you need to rearrange the flower away from the window.
• Leaf tips turn yellow– low air humidity. At room conditions, installing the pot in a pan with expanded clay, on which water is poured, will help solve the problem. In the garden, the catharanthus needs to be sprayed.
• Yellowing and dropping of the lower leaves, provided that the color of the rest of the foliage is preserved - a natural process. No action should be taken in this case.
• Minimum number of flowers- the plant is cold. You can solve the problem only at room conditions by moving the cataractus to a more warm place. In conditions open ground will have to wait for warmer weather.
• When grown at home, the plant may stop flowering and the leaves will start to turn yellow. This phenomenon suggests that the catharanthus is cramped in a pot and there is no room for growth and development. Taking the flower out of the pot, you will see that the roots have entwined the entire earthen ball. Transplant the catharanthus into a large pot and the plant will come to life.

As you can see, caring for a catharanthus is not that difficult. If you know and take into account all these nuances when growing, you will get a spectacular, long-flowering plant for decoration. garden plot or apartment interior.

This flower boasts many names: pink periwinkle and pink primary, cayenne jasmine and Madagascar vinca ... And that's not all. In fact, its correct biological name is catharanthus rosea. Among European flower growers, it has been known for more than two centuries as an outdoor garden plant, but in the last few decades it has also been grown in apartments. What is a home catharanthus, we will now consider.

Kataranthus: plant description and species for indoor floriculture

Kataranthus is one of the many genera in the kutrov family. Among houseplants, the most common kutrov is probably oleander. But the periwinkle, which, indeed, is very similar to the catharanthus, and with whom even botanists confused it for a long time, although it also belongs to the kutrovs, has its own genus , Vinca.

In the genus of catharanthus, there are 8 different species, but only one of them, pink catharanthus, Used As A Houseplant. Its homeland is the island of Madagascar and the southern regions of India, although for many centuries the plant can be found in almost all tropical zones of the earth. The reason for this is unpretentiousness and ease of reproduction, which we will talk about later.

Cataranthus are evergreen shrubs and semi-shrubs that can grow in nature almost to the height of a person. But at home, they are much smaller, and rather resemble large grass. They have succulent, erect stems, often bare below and branching at the top. The leaves are noticeably elongated, close to lanceolate, saturated dark green in color, with a pronounced, white central vein.

Numerous rounded flowers, 3 to 5 cm in diameter, appear on the plant most of the year, and resemble a cross between phlox and periwinkle. Their 5 petals are so tightly fused that the whole flower looks like a bright circle. White, pinkish or lilac shades predominate, although now breeders have significantly diversified the color scheme.

In gardens, catharanthus are used as annuals, but in apartments they can live for several years in a row. However, even with good care, specimens gradually degenerate, so it is strongly recommended to change them at least once every three years.

Whole varieties of pink catharanthus have now been bred, differing in their size and color of flowers. The most common variety groups:

• Aristocrat ;
• Pacifica ;
• cooper ;
• First Kiss (the richest variety group in colors)
• Titanium (ampel form with red flowers).

The necessary conditions

Despite its tropical origin, even an inexperienced florist can handle the cultivation of catharanthus at home, this is a rather unpretentious plant.

Lighting and location

There should be a lot of light all year round, but not direct, diffused. Therefore, catharanthus can be kept on the western and eastern windows, and on the southern ones too, with the condition of shading on sunny days. If the room is bright, the plant will feel good even away from the windowsill, near a light wall.

In the summer, you can take it out to the open balcony, to the garden, choosing quiet, shady places.

Important! Quaranthus practically do not have a dormant period, and if they arrange winter lighting with phytolamps, they will bloom even at this time.

If there is not enough light for the plant, the flowers will immediately become small, pale, and the shoots will stretch.

Temperature, air humidity

In spring and summer - the usual room, preferably in the range from + 20 ° C to + 26 ° C. In winter it is a little colder. If there is no additional lighting in winter, you can lower the temperature to + 12 ° C. The plant will freeze, but for him it will be better than to endure the dry air of the apartment.

The plant prefers an average level of humidity. In conditions where central heating is operating, regular spraying with soft water is highly recommended. You also need to raise the humidity on hot summer days.

Watering, feeding

It should be watered regularly, so that the topsoil has time to dry out. Catharanthus roots love moist soil, but without stagnant water. If the soil in the pot is not moist enough, the leaves of the plant lose their turgor and curl into tubules. After watering, this phenomenon quickly passes.

Quaranthus grow actively, bloom a lot, so they need top dressing. Practice shows that a good fertilizer for them is a ready-made mix for roses, sold in flower shops. It can be successfully replaced with other mixtures for flowering plants, applied 2-3 times a month.

In the spring-summer period, it is useful to alternate mineral dressings with organic ones.

Soil, pot selection

In this component, the plant is completely undemanding, any mixture will do, as long as it is nutritious, light, normal acidity. If you make the mixture yourself, you can focus on traditional components:

• Soddy and leafy land - 2 parts each;
• Humus - 1 part;
• Peat and sand - also in one part.

The pot should be spacious so that the roots in it feel free.

Important! Many houseplants bloom well only when their roots become crowded. Quaranthus is one of the rare exceptions. It blooms and develops in spacious containers.

Transfer

Thus, caring for a catharanthus at home, it must be transplanted regularly. They do this once a year, in spring or early summer, and if the plant is young, one-year-old, then more often, as it grows. The flower itself signals that its roots are cramped: the lower leaves immediately begin to turn yellow and fall off, and flowering stops. It is better not to allow this, and to transplant in advance, as soon as the roots begin to braid the outside of the earthen ball. The new pot must be slightly larger than the previous one.

Attention! Watch to soil mix in the new container was close in composition to the old soil. Kataranthus painfully gets used to the change of land. He will adapt to it, but some time in development will be lost.

Cropping Features

Kataranthus blooms at the tips of the shoots, so the bush needs regular pinching. The more young, branching branches there are on the plant, the more magnificent it will bloom.

In addition, this flower tends to lose shape, lengthen the shoots, while their lower part is exposed. To prevent this from happening, cardinal pruning is used in the spring, removing a third, or even half, of the shoots stretched out over the winter. Do not be afraid to do this - in a couple of months the catharanthus will restore the crown, and it will only become more magnificent. But keep in mind that after pruning, it will not bloom for at least a month! For this reason, the procedure is carried out at the very beginning of the season.

Reproduction of catharanthus

They use several well-known methods, and it always succeeds without difficulty. We have already mentioned that this ability to reproduce contributed to its spread throughout different regions planets.

seed way.

Quarantus from seeds at home is propagated most often. Fortunately, the flower constantly “throws” the owner of a full-fledged seed, although buying its seeds in flower shops is not a problem. The sowing scheme is traditional and simple:

• sow seeds in March to a depth of about 1.5 cm;
• cover with a film and leave in a dimly lit place, it is better even in complete darkness, observing the temperature of + 22 + 24 ° C;
• after the emergence of seedlings (and this happens quite quickly), transfer to a lighted place, accustom to the normal air of the room;
• sprouts develop slowly at first, this is normal. When 4 true leaves grow, a pick should be made into separate small pots;
• top dressing begins about a month after picking.

The division of the bush

A popular method that makes it possible to get a full-fledged plant in a couple of months. Divide old, overgrown specimens, usually in the second half of spring. With this method, you need to carefully separate the lateral young shoots, along with part of the roots, and plant them in separate pots.

The further development of the divisions will be rapid, they will soon bloom.

cuttings

As a rule, cuttings left over from spring pruning are used. They root perfectly in ordinary water, as long as it is warm, not colder than + 22 ° C. It can be successfully rooted in a greenhouse, in a substrate consisting of peat and sand.

These methods should be used constantly, because, as already mentioned, the catharanthus tends to grow. Even plants sown in early spring will bloom well by the end of summer.

Diseases and problems

Quaranthus, which is properly cared for, is not prone to get sick. But sometimes the following problems occur:

• leaves turn yellow and fall off . Perhaps there is too much light, but such a picture is also observed with its lack. Maybe the air is too dry. Also, a similar picture is caused by tightness in a pot, poor soil;
• the plant blooms badly . Too cold air. Not enough light. Not enough food. The trimming was done at the wrong time;
• root rot . The soil is too heavy and watering is excessive; standing water in a pot.

In all these cases, remember that catharanthus is prone to shedding leaves at the bottom of the shoots simply by nature, so evaluate the top foliage.

From pests- the flower can be attacked by scale insects and spider mites. In the first case, one of the popular insecticides, for example, Aktara, will cope. In the case of a tick, you need to treat the plant several times with an acaricide solution: for example, Actellik or Sunmite. The main thing is to carry out the processing repeatedly, in compliance with the instructions.

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