Brown spots appeared on the flower. leaf spot

Flower growers become very annoying when their favorite plants suddenly start to hurt. Therefore, it is useful to learn about what diseases are. indoor plants and how they should be properly treated.

This topic is becoming especially relevant today, because the modern market offers a huge number of drugs and remedies that help prevent and eliminate flower ailments.

Bacterial and viral diseases

These diseases are often accompanied by slow development ornamental crops. It is very difficult to diagnose them in the early stages.

Viruses are often carried by thrips and aphids. Treatment in this case should be complex.

The most common diseases of indoor flowers:

1. Rot. Flowers with fleshy leaves and stems often suffer from it. An overdose of nitrogenous top dressings or waterlogging can provoke the development of rot.
2. Withering. In this case, the stems begin to wither first, after which all other parts are affected.
3. spotting. Dead areas appear on the leaves with this disease. The spots have clear outlines that make it possible to distinguish them from fungal infections. To treat the disease, indoor flowers need to be treated with special preparations.
4. bacterial cancer. Symptoms of the disease involve the appearance of small growths on the shoots and rhizomes of plants. If these tumors are left unattended, they can cause their death.

Chemicals for treating home flower disease are not effective enough. In such situations, it is important to observe preventive measures and control soil moisture.

If rotting of the rhizome was found, then watering should be reduced, and if the whole flower is sick, then it will have to be removed along with the pot and soil.

Prevention measures

1. You need to buy flowers exclusively from trusted sources (nurseries or specialized stores). In this case, when pests appear, it will be possible to seek help from the seller, who, most likely, will fix the problem for free.
2. It is desirable to choose varieties of crops that are distinguished by good resistance to ailments.
3. Seed material for planting must be disinfected and sorted.
4. It is necessary to adhere to the conditions of care depending on the type of plant.
5. Flowers and leaves should be inspected as often as possible for damage and disease.

When a disease is detected, the flower needs to be urgently isolate from the rest and start to deal with the problem.

If for a particular houseplant the spots are not part of their natural color or the newly appeared spots do not match with it, their appearance means a serious disease that requires urgent action.

1) Brown spots with signs of rot on different parts, accompanied by leaf fall, often - the appearance of mold on the flowers and browning of the root collar. The ground is damp or wet. The earth mixture emits an unpleasant odor (sour or reminiscent of the smell of ammonia).

Diagnosis is likely:

a) in the absence of drainage.

b) if the plant is grown in too large a pot,

c) in winter, when moisture is less absorbed by the roots. An indirect sign of the beginning of the decay of the earth for indoor plants can be the appearance of springtails. Springtails are small, white, well-jumping insects, at the rear end of which there is a special fork-shaped outgrowth: Root rot from over watering.

Treatment. Replant the plant immediately if the rot has not yet reached the stem, getting rid of the damaged parts of the root system. If the rot has spread before the start of the above-ground shoot, the plant will die. You can try to restore it by using the aerial part as cuttings.

2) Separate pale spots appear between the veins, later the leaf plate can be covered with small rusty-brown spots as a whole. The leaves are grayish, in later stages - a bronze hue: zinc deficiency.

Treatment. Feed the plant with an appropriate mono-fertilizer.

3) The leaves are covered with yellow-green spots and become thinner, the stems become stiff and thin: “disease of development” (copper deficiency).

Treatment . Feed the plant with an appropriate mono-fertilizer.

4) The formation of yellow or whitish spots on the leaves, which can merge with a massive lesion. On the shoots and the underside of the leaves, you can see brownish bulges - scales (“shields”): shield or false shield.

Treatment:

a) In the early stages, scale insects can be fought “manually”: wash the plant with soapy water and brush the leaves with a brush (you can use a toothbrush) for one and a half months once a week or more often. If time is lost or you fail, biological or chemical means can be used.

b) Biological agents: bitter wormwood infusion, onion infusion, garlic infusion.

in) Chemicals: Aktara, chlorophos, trichlormetafos, pyrethrum (spray), carbolenium (CEAM), selinone, detoil, liquid soap, potassium soap.

5) On plain leaves, sharply defined spots appear more light color diversified different shapes(sometimes merging into rings). Then the leaves turn pale and turn yellow, necrotic spots may appear, as a rule, elongated, dashed spots also appear on the flower petals, which are not characteristic of the natural color of this variety: mosaic.

Treatment . In the early stages of the disease, plants can be saved by spraying with copper preparations. - Bordeaux liquid, copper-soap liquid or copper oxychloride, as well as others chemicals(oxychom, phthalan, iron vitriol, nitrafen). A neglected disease cannot be cured - isolate the affected plant and destroy.

6) Pale patches, like a mosaic, which soon become oily. Begonias and/or related species affected: virus leaf spot of begonia.

Treatment . The prognosis is unfavorable. Only at a very early stage does it make sense to try to use the drugs listed in the previous paragraph.

7) Weeping spots on leaves of brown and dark gray color: wet bacterial rot.

Similar to the previous point.

8) Purple-brown spots, which later turn gray, with the middle of the spots lighter than the edges. Tiny black dots can be seen on the spots: hard rot (septoria).

Treatment . Any systemic fungicides (Vectra, Topaz, etc.), Bordeaux liquid, copper-soap liquid, copper oxychloride, oxychom, phthalan, iron vitriol or nitrafen can be used for treatment. From biological agents, you can use infusions of ash, mullein, marigolds or a decoction of horsetail.

9) Brown, black or gray spots, sometimes bordered or with black dots scattered over the surface. Leaves turn yellow and die, plant growth is delayed: leaf spot.

Treatment . See previous paragraph.

10) First, yellowish dots appear, and then rust-like spots, while yellow dusty pads may appear on the bottom, and by the end of the growing season, the spots may turn into almost black stripes: rust.

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11) Reddish-brown longitudinal spots appear on the bark of the plant closer to the root, under the dead bark, gum begins to appear in their place (special secretions that harden in air). The leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off, the plant withers: gommosis.

Treatment is similar to that of septoria (see above).

12) Begonia, ferns, pilea, spathiphyllum and some other plant species that are particularly demanding on atmospheric humidity may become covered with brown spots from excessive dryness of the air.

Treatment . Take measures to increase atmospheric humidity. If for this species there are no contraindications to pollingnodding, during the acute stage it is advisable to use it, later, if the wilting process has not gone too deep, it will be possible to limit yourself to less time-consuming measures (place the plant in a tray with moistened moss or large pebbles, etc.).

Fine( 5 ) Badly( 0 )

Sooner or later, they face problems associated with the deterioration of the health and decorative value of potted flowers. If there were spots on leaves of one or another species from your flower collection, it is necessary to determine the cause of damage to the leaf blades as soon as possible.

It is possible that the appearance of spots on the leaves is caused by sunburn and it is necessary to shade the flower from direct sunlight. Typically, such damage appears in the summer - yellowish or brown spots of a rounded shape are clearly visible on the leaves, the leaf blade is deformed, and turgor decreases.

But spots on the leaves may appear due to the defeat of a houseplant. pests(spider mites, flower thrips, scale insects, whitefly larvae, mealybug, white or green aphids), fungal diseases(mycoses are caused by powdery mildew, gray rot, late blight, fusarium, anthracnose), bacterial diseases(bacteriosis) and viral infections causing leaf spot.

Usually, novice flower growers face damage to plants by pests or diseases, which allow violations in the process of caring for "green pets" at home. Therefore, it is important to carefully inspect all potted flowers as often as possible in order to quickly take action if spots are found on the leaves. It is much easier to deal with pests and diseases at the initial stage of appearance than after the defeat of large areas, when the chances of saving the plant become less and less.

♦ WHY DO BLACK SPOTS APPEAR ON FLOWER LEAVES?

◉ fungal disease phyllostictosis ( brown spot). At the initial stage of the lesion, dots of dark purple and black appear. Gradually, the dots increase in size and turn into brown or black spots on the leaves;

◉ fungal disease septoria. At first, you can find small oval spots of light color on the leaves. gray color with brownish border. Gradually, the affected areas of the leaves increase in size and black spots appear in the central part, consisting of spores of the Septoria fungus. Then the mycelium spreads throughout the drying leaf and the color of the leaf blade becomes brown;

◉ fungal disease powdery mildew. At the initial stage of the disease, small spots with a grayish coating appear. The mycelium rapidly expands, small spots merge, darken, and closer to the center of the leaf blade, black spots with spores may appear;

◉ soot fungus. Niello often appears on secretions (honeydew) of pests such as aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. A sticky honeydew remains on the leaves, and then a black coating and small dark or black spots appear;

◉ another dangerous mycosis is black rot. At first, dark brown spots with yellowish concentric rings may appear. Gradually, the spots increase in size, darken and the entire leaf literally turns black;

◉ bacteriosis bacterial rot. It often appears on the fleshy leaves of houseplants. At the initial stage of the disease, small spots of brown or black color can be found. Gradually, the leaf tissue softens and necrosis of the leaf blade occurs.

Photo: black spots on the leaves of indoor plants

♦ WHY APPEAR YELLOW SPOT ON FLOWER LEAVES?

❂ improper plant care (watering cold water, overflow and stagnation of water in the root system, incorrect top dressing with fertilizers, unsuitable earth mixture). First, shapeless yellow spots may appear on the lower leaves, yellowish dots along the veins. Due to waterlogging or stagnation of water in the roots, blurry yellowish spots appear on thin leaf blades;

❂ drafts and prolonged ventilation of the room. So-called draft spots may appear on the leaves of flowers due to hypothermia of the root rosette. Yellow spots of irregular or blurred shape are scattered throughout the leaf blade;

❂ sunburn. Sunburn can occur after watering or spraying, when drops on the leaves act like lenses. The leaves show round or oval yellow spots with a reddish-brown rim;

❂ fungal disease peronosporosis (downy mildew). Grayish-yellow spots with a blurred outline appear on the upper side of the leaf blade. The mycelium rapidly increases in size and the spots coalesce;

❂ bacteriosis bacterial spotting. First, vitreous spots with a blurry rim appear. Soon these spots on the leaves turn yellow, and then increase in size, turn black and the leaf dries;

❂ pests of indoor plants suck juices from tissues. At first, you can find small yellowish dots on the leaves. Gradually, pests multiply, there are more and more dots and they increase in size, turning into yellow spots.

- photo: yellow spots on the leaves of indoor plants

♦ WHY DO WHITE SPOTS APPEAR ON FLOWER LEAVES?

◎ fungal disease powdery mildew. First, a grayish coating appears, which is easily removed mechanically. Then the entire leaf is covered with shapeless white spots, which eventually become dark brown or brown;

◎ fungal disease gray rot. In the initial stage, it usually appears on damaged and withered leaves in the form of shapeless brownish or brown spots. But after a while, white spots can be found - this is a plaque, under which the color of the spots is rusty or brown;

◎ plant damage by thrips. Pest-affected areas of the leaf blade are covered with white spots. If you look closely, you can also find tiny black thrips excrement there.

- photo: white spots on the leaves of indoor plants

♦ SPOT ON LEAVES IN DIFFERENT TYPES OF FLOWERS:

⊛ Anthurium. Violations in the irrigation regime lead to the appearance of yellow or rusty spots on the leaves. Improperly prepared earth mixture, which decomposes and cakes, can lead to the appearance of blurry yellow spots, and the leaves themselves are deformed. Anthracnose often affects Anthurium Andre (Male happiness), which leads to the appearance of dark spots and drying of the leaves. Frequent drafts and low temperature lead to the appearance of black dots and small spots. small translucent dark spots on the leaf blade they talk about the possible defeat of anthurium by a spider mite. And numerous yellowish spots against the background of deformed leaves may be the result of the activity of aphids sucking anthurium juices.

⊛ Orchid(phalaenopsis, dendrobium). If dry spots of a brownish or brown color appear on the leaves, then most likely this is a lesion by the fungus Cladosporium Orchideorum. If you constantly water the orchid with cold water, then you can provoke the appearance of uneven depressed yellow spots - this is the so-called death of leaf tissue cells (Mesophyll collapse). At high level air humidity against the background of elevated temperature, circles and yellow spots of Cercospora bacterial spot may appear on the leaves. The fungus Phyllostictina Pyriformis causes small yellow and black spots on the upper part of the leaf - and especially along the edges. The appearance of black spots of different sizes can cause chlorosis if the orchid is watered with unsettled running water.

⊛ ficuses(Benjamin, rubber elastic). Top part leaf blade is covered with small yellowish and dark spots, a cobweb is visible between the shoots and leaves - this is a lesion spider mite. Sticky secretions of pests (scale insects, thrips, mealybugs) can provoke the appearance of soot fungus on the leaves. Gray rot causes darkening of the leaves and the appearance of spots with a grayish coating on the surface. Ficuses are often affected by powdery mildew, with the appearance of which white spots with a bloom are clearly visible on the leaves.

⊛ Saintpaulia(Uzambara violets). Very susceptible to direct sunlight, with prolonged exposure to which burns appear on the leaves in the form of oval yellow spots with a brownish central part. Cold air and constant drafts provoke the appearance of gray-beige spots of various shapes. Dark spots may appear along the edges of the lower leaves of violets if the plant has not been transplanted for a long time or the flower lacks potassium. Powdery mildew causes white spots with a powdery coating, and then the leaves turn brown, deform and fall off.

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Here are the most common plant diseases that are found on indoor flowers. Attention: on any plants in case of violation of agricultural technology (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planted in non-disinfected soil, signs of several diseases may appear. In the world around us, not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long threads of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not depressed), ring patterns from viruses and some other.

But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, in orchids tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternariosis. The good news is that the ones offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for the home), drugs of hazard classes 3 and 4 are allowed.

Alternariosis and dry spotting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus infects mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: First, dry brown spots appear, first on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Usually concentric circles are visible on the spots. With the increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternating dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus are at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid overcrowded plants, cut out excess branches and leaves during. Ventilate the room or greenhouse, if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate disturbances.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat alternariosis:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palm trees, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen look different.

• Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. It looks like a yellow spot with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim is formed, and inside it is a grayish ring.
• Colletotrichum orbiculare - causes usually reddish-brown, often with a slight yellow border, spots, from 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, holes form.
• Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, the spores are already noticeable when the plant is severely damaged. The spots on the fruits are gray-brown with a dark middle, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it is preserved in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water during irrigation.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. Suspicious plants bought in the store are quarantined. When signs of the manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are enough, using fungicides:

• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• : 100 g per 10 liters of water
• colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi fungicide, in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
• abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 liters of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitosis of chrysanthemums, which most often affects plants of the Compositae family.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic hue with a yellowish chlorosis border around the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can only be seen under magnification with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem easily breaks.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of overdrying of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The causative agent is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates both severe drought and freezing of the soil. Preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Prevention and treatment, as in .

Dropsy leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but resulting from waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually appears in succulents, typical for peperomia, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, barely noticeable pimples appear, they seem watery, but are actually dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf may be preserved, i.e. the spots are green, may acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that part of the roots dies (due to overdrying, waterlogging, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conductive vessels that were supplied by these particular roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will not recover, but if the plant is given good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) and other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, grows noticeably, and the spots themselves small areas, affect 1-3 leaves on a bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not flood, after heavy watering and when compacting the soil in a pot, loosen the ground. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the volume of the pot.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false powdery rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (the specifics of the leaf structure). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the lower side of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray coating from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that came to the surface of the leaf through the stomata, then this coating gradually turns black. Diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent with a strong degree of damage can penetrate into vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease predominates in severe acidic soils. Exacerbates the spread of high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is undisinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning the bushes. Change of soil and its disinfection. If signs of the disease are already detected, avoid spraying and watering the leaves when watering.

Seed preparation for sowing:

• immersing them in hot water at 50°C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water within 2-3 minutes
• soaking in a seed treater, for example, Maxim preparation

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxate, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of horticultural and horticultural plants. Can get more modern drugs: quadris, bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for Agriculture(in canisters and bottles), gardeners usually purchase them in collective purchases.

For a simple grower, fungicides are available:

• topaz 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak 50 g suspension per 10 l of water
• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first sign of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

powdery mildew

A common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on oidium grapes.

Symptoms: at the beginning of the disease, small mealy spots appear on the flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and increase in size, becoming a rich gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Powdery coating can be on both sides of the sheet. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. Most favorable conditions for the development of the disease - high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air in the range of 15-26 ° C.

From domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulias, gloxinia, roses, gerberas, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

For the prevention of powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, pollination with sulfur can be carried out 3-4 times during the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers increases resistance to powdery mildew. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of disease, you constantly need to be on the lookout - the spores of the fungus are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, preventive spraying with whey (backwash) can be carried out. Ordinary whole milk will do, but whey is preferable (less traces on the leaves), you need to dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and spray the plants. For prevention, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses are especially susceptible, then you can use the same means as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to fungicides such as topaz, fast.

You can use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, we breed 2 g per 10 liters of water, a maximum of 4 treatments: the first - along the green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop processing 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and blue vitriol: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a liquid volume of 2 liters and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for fighting powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat it, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oksikhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with a solution of iodine helps as a preventive measure and treatment: dilute 1 ml of an alcohol pharmaceutical tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml per 400 ml of water.

Septoria

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, as on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves when sub-zero temperature and the disease will begin to spread in the spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

• Pathogen Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. With the development of the disease, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. Ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures in the range of 28-31 °.
• The causative agent Septoria populi - the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim around the edge, round or oval.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious spots, disinfection of the earth, seed dressing. With signs of a manifestation of the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Treatment of septoria

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to carry out spraying using chemicals: among them, popular in gardening, a 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water, dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oksikhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). As well as:

• colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
• strobi in a system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 liters of water
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: most often the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive coating. With further development, the disease passes to the leaves, ovaries of flowers and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. For the first week, there is no sporulation of the fungus on the spot, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot looks like gray loose cotton wool or mold. Inside the stem, tissue necrosis develops, while the vessels die, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone withers.

Prevention

Prevention measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in the oven or microwave), regular airing of the rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially when kept cool, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier or phytosporin preparations can be applied to the soil (spill the soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of the disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Powder the affected area charcoal, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of trichodermin (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and smear the affected areas in the same way. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M (0.1%) or a solution of phytosporin (dilute to the color of tea). In case of severe damage, spray:

• (0,2%)
• copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok - dilute any 4 ml per 5 liters of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aukuba, buksus, laurels. Caused by the fungus Capnopodium, which lives on the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, mealybug. By itself, the plaque is not dangerous for the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying from pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm pure water, carry out treatment with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, carefully examine the nature of the spots, put the plant in quarantine.

leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: are expressed in the appearance of orange-brown tubercles on the upper surface of the leaf, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the leaf, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new ones bought in a store potted plants like gerberas. The infection can also come from garden soil, because rust often affects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Apply fungicide spray:

• abiga-peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 10 g per 1 liter of water
• oxychom 15-20 g per 10 liters of water
• ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
• strobe
• 4 ml per 10 liters of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times in 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phyllosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of the domestic flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: Small dark reddish or dark purple dots first appear on affected plants. They enlarge and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leather leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen on the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, undisinfected soil, water drops.

Orchid phyllosticosis manifests itself in small spots about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes do not form, the disease is often called "black spotting", since the leaf is dotted with small spots like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quite quickly, as orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering if necessary, but not more often, pour water only under the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the axils of the leaves. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure plants get enough light, weakened chlorosis leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation must be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - the absence of mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe temperature regime, consider the species requirements of orchids and other plants - deviation from the norm and habitual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

• Vectra fungicide - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
• abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 liters of water
• strobi - 4 g per 10 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• fungicides: pure flower, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 1 ml per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying at the first signs of the disease or prophylactic, then subsequent with an interval of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can cut the leaf only when it has already turned yellow. The rest is treated by spraying.

root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifested in the decay of the lower part of the shoot, the cutting. Rot is the most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects when the soil is waterlogged, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that an anaerobic environment is constantly around the roots. The source of infection is unsterilized earth mixtures, inventory, pots and seedling boxes after diseased plants.

late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, fades somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with extensive brown spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Pick up correct soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earth mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be bought in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add a drug to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil does not become waterlogged, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, then the soil in the pot should have time to dry out by the next watering by about 1/2 or 1/3 of the upper part of the pot. If you dip your finger into the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and the inside of the pot is slightly wetter (cooler) - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you dip your finger into the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter). Of course, you should not stick your fingers into the ground before each watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering so that it has time to dry in depth. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature drops, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, cut off only healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the ground for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneria, gardenia, shefflera). Old, already used pots in which the plants died must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a disinfectant, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots died off, and most of the shoots drooped, lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig has blackened on rooting, it can be cut off, drop phytosporin into water and put on rooting again.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is urgent to remove the plant from the pot. Rinse the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, treat them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

• Alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 liters of water
• Hamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
• 3 ml per 2 liters of water
• baktofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
• oxychom 10 g per 5 l of water
• hom 20 g per 5 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Pathogens - fungi genera Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotting is a disease whose causative agent is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not pronounced. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which grow in size with the spread of the disease, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, resistant to diseases, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves dry out also slowly.

Prevention of spotting

Contribute to the development of diseases violations of conditions of detention. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or when transporting home from the store during the cold season). Spotting can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid large plant crowds and excessive watering. Regularly ventilate the room, greenhouses and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting tablets of the drug.

Control measures

AT garden conditions you need to collect and destroy any plant debris with stains from dead plants. Prune affected leaves and branches from houseplants. Spray with fungicides that can deal with most fungal infections.

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water diluted)
• copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 liters of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

At home, indoor flowers from spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok - they are all available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Rayok (6 drops per 1 liter of solution).

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospora Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrums and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a diseased plant, the deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not begin or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns of the primordia of the leaves and peduncle - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can treat the red burn of hippeastrum with other fungicides:

• fundahol (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water
• oxychom 4 g per 1 liter of water

black spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

• Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large rounded spots, initially yellowish and blurry. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stroma (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
• Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular in shape, large and small.
• Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, dotted or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and bulging stroma.
• Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

• abiga peak 50 g per 10 liters of water
• acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
• benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• oxychom 20 g per 10 l of water
• hom 40 g per 10 liters of water
• alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times in 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilt- pathogens enter through the roots and affect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumen of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and starts to fade.

Tracheomycoses include diseases such as:

• verticillium wilt (verticillium wilt)
• fusarium wilt (fusarium)
• malsecco in citrus

The symptoms are very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, they are detected at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Particularly affected by tracheomycosis are orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. From other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: saintpaulia, ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus can resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are simply called: wilt - from wilt - to fade.

verticillium wilt

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, infects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and reproduces systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: on early stages diseases, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of interveinal necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries out. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry. On the section of the stem, browning of the vessels is noticeable. Vessel lumens are filled with thin multicellular mycelium. Plants lag behind in growth, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying up and death of individual branches of the bush. If the conditions are favorable, then the disease passes to other branches and the whole plant dies rather quickly. If there are unfavorable conditions for the development of the fungus, then the disease can last for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.

The pathogen persists in the soil in the form of microslerotia for several years. Optimum temperature for germination of sclerotia 25-27°, humidity 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value = 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate the conductive tissue, where mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins with the lower leaves and gradually covers the entire plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pre-treatment: pour on a baking sheet with a layer of 5 cm, heat at maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, fungicide maxim)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and distribution through conductive vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationazole, vectra (3 ml per 10 l of water) or topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilt)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily in dying areas. The course of the disease can take place according to the type of tracheomycosis wilt or with rotting of the roots. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and enters the plant through soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. The increased humidity of air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the roots and root neck. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tops of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, the darkening of the vessels is also visible on the transverse section. But sometimes tracheomycosis appears only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If you cut off (the cut is clean without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches during the time, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of the course of the disease depends on how favorable the conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is lowered, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly fades within 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

• Vectra 3 ml per 10 liters of water
• benomyl (foundazol) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids can be 1 g per 100 ml
• alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
• Vitaros 2 ml per 1 liter of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (throw away or boil the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare a fungicide solution, and carefully spray the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in fresh substrate large pieces bark, foam, cork). Do not spray, water by dipping as needed for a short time (5 minutes is enough). It is advisable to keep diseased orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense but diffused lighting (possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by spilling it properly with a solution of potassium permanganate ( color pink), drug, Maxim, or the introduction of trichodermin. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.

Almost every housewife is engaged in breeding indoor flowers. In addition to the joy of contemplating the beautiful, they require proper care.

Sometimes problems happen to them, they get sick and dry, they are affected by pests. Diseases of indoor plants, when dry tips of leaves appear, are quite common.

There are reasons why indoor plants develop dark tips on their leaves. Often such problems are easily corrected, but sometimes there is a long struggle for the survival of a flower. The main causes of common diseases are:

• Watering from the tap. The most common mistake that is fraught with dry leaf tips. Tap water contains chemical substances fluorine and chlorine, which, rising from the roots into the leaves, cause burns of the latter.
• Bay or insufficient watering of the soil. Darkening of the tips of the greens may indicate that the flowers are receiving too much or too little water. Excess moisture causes roots to rot, turning into green rot. Overdrying the earthy coma causes the plant to dry out.
• Pests. Houseplants are often affected by pests, of which there are many. When the plant is damaged by insects, the ends of the leaves also become dark brown.
• Dry air. Those who are in natural environment grow in areas with high humidity, hard to tolerate dry air. With excessive watering, the situation will not improve, but on the contrary, it will become worse, because the roots rot, therefore, very little water reaches the leaves.
• Fertilizers. Overdrying of leaf tips can cause excessive use of fertilizers.

General measures to combat leaf dryness

Regardless of the causes of dry leaf tips, hygiene measures must be taken.

To grow beautiful lush plants you need their proper location in the room:

• Firstly, flower pots should be placed away from heating devices: radiators, heaters, fans. It is good if the plants are located in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, kitchen).
• Secondly, it is better to form indoor plants in groups so that there is less evaporation from the leaves.
• In time, the risks of soil contamination and the appearance of salts should be destroyed. It is necessary to remove white plaque from the top layer of soil, replace this layer of soil with a new one.
• The leaves of the plant are thoroughly cleaned of dust as often as possible and wiped with a damp sponge or cloth.
• You can increase the humidity in the room using a container of water placed near the flower. Evaporating liquid will humidify the air.
• With dry air during the heating season or with dry climatic conditions a special humidifier is used. You can, of course, use a spray gun, but there is little effect from it or spraying should be done after 10 minutes. Great solution in the case of dry air is the use of gravel placed in a pan and sprinkled with water. But the bottom of the pot should not touch the water in order to avoid rotting of the roots. In addition to gravel, expanded clay is used for the same purposes. The water poured into the pan evaporates in a warm room and, accordingly, the humidity rises.
• To prevent stagnant liquid and rotting of the root system, it is necessary that the flower pot has holes for drainage. Before watering, it is good to use an earthen ball moisture meter to determine the amount of water to add to the containers.

To protect the plant from pests, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures. If the pots are not used for the first time, they must be thoroughly washed and poured with purchased soil or homogeneous soil, calcined well in the oven, which will destroy insects and their larvae. A newly planted plant should be isolated for a month and regularly inspected for damage by harmful insects. A month later, the flower can be attached to others. Every week, it is advisable to wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth or soap diluted in water in the presence of pests.

You can not put indoor flowers on windows or balconies during the scorching sun. Leaves of plants get burned, leading to death.

Water quality is of great importance for growing indoor flowers. Instead of tap water, it is better to water with rain or melt water. On the extreme case it is possible to use boiled water or let it stand so that the chemicals evaporate.

Brown spots on leaves

Brown spots on the leaves of indoor plants are undoubtedly a concern for gardeners. Most likely, the plant is affected by a fungal disease. Dry brown spots at the beginning of the disease are formed on the lower leaves, then they move to the upper ones. Over time, the spots become darker.

The causes of flower diseases are most often differences in various temperatures, watering with very cold water, a change in humidity, which consists in the alternation of dry and humid air.
For preventive purposes, thickening of plants should be avoided. It is necessary to thin out the flower in a timely manner, cutting out extra branches and leaves.

It is also necessary to systematically ventilate the room, whether it be a room or a greenhouse. When finding indoor flowers on the balcony, you need to make sure that it is well ventilated. In addition, a thorough inspection of the walls can reveal a violation of the microclimate. An indicator of a bad atmosphere is the appearance of mold on the walls.

You can fight the fungal disease with the help of effective fungicides.

Shield on plants

It is quite difficult to detect scale insects on plants. The insect is mobile and very small, only 5 mm. The insect is very dangerous, as it sucks the juice from plants. As a result, the leaves fall off, dry, and then everything dies.

Shield on indoor plants is dangerous and difficult to remove, but there are ways to deal with the enemy of home flowers at home.

Conventional pest control methods often do not bring positive results. This is due to the fact that the scale insect has a wax shield, which makes it invulnerable to chemicals. But dangerous enemy You can still win, you just need to be patient, since the process of destruction is long. In addition, destruction requires the right approach.

Treatment of indoor plants - on video: