EFFICIENT PIPE HEATING

The company "New Systems and Technologies" sells heating cables that allow heating pipes, roofs and gutters. The product catalog contains big choice accessories for the heating cable, including fastenings to the pipe. We inexpensively offer products from leading world manufacturers. We have all the necessary certificates confirming high quality and decent performance.

Advantages of cable pipe heating system:

• low prices for both cable products and installation services;
• quick installation and ease of use;
• low power consumption;
• optimally suited for a variety of objects;
• long service life, rarely needs repair.

Heating pipelines at the lowest cost

You can apply for the purchase of products through the site. It is necessary to select a cable for heating pipes and accessories for it, add them to the basket, and then fill in the fields of the order form.

Specialists of the company "New Systems and Technologies" provide a full range of services for the installation of pipeline heating systems. We will complete all the necessary work as soon as possible.

Courier delivery of cables for heating pipes and other products ordered from us is carried out within Moscow and the region. Goods can be sent to other regions of the Russian Federation with the participation of transport services. Self-pickup available.

If you want to clarify what the final price of the goods will be with delivery and electrical installation services, contact the specialists of the New Systems and Technologies company. They will make all the necessary calculations.

Water pipes that lie at a shallow depth, as well as passing through unheated parts of the house, need to be heated. Otherwise, there is a risk of freezing of the water supply during periods of extreme cold and the cessation of water supply at home. To solve this problem, a special heating cable for plumbing is purchased, which is laid in a special way inside the pipes or wrapped around them. Manufacturers produce products of different lengths (from 2 to 20 meters or more), which allows heating only the part of the water supply system rising from the ground or the entire system located in the soil freezing zone.

How to prepare a heating cable for pipes for connection to a shield can be seen in the video. It also explains in detail how to insulate the second end of the electrical tape to prevent moisture from entering. All the necessary consumables and parts are included in a special kit, after unpacking it, they begin to prepare the cable for installation.

Self-regulating cable device

Self-regulating heating cable is available as a ribbon electric heater, whose parallel conductors are separated by a heat-generating semiconductor polymer matrix. An important feature of the matrix, which is the core of the heating cable, is the continuity of heating, which allows:

• to cut the cable in any right place without fear of cold zones;
• increase/decrease the amount of heat generated depending on the change in the temperature indicators of the external environment.

Each section of the self-heating cable is able to adapt to external conditions, and this does not affect the operation of its other parts in any way.

Due to the rationing of heat release for standardized conditions indicated in the name of the cable, the heating system cannot in practice overheat in principle. The presence of two layers of insulation allows the product to:

• dielectric strength;
• protection against abrasion and shock loads;
• moisture resistance;
• protection against exposure to chemical compounds.

It is important to note that a resistive cable for heating pipes is a quarter cheaper than self-regulating heating products, but they are more reliable and economical in operation. The fact is that a self-regulating cable can increase power when the temperature drops, and when it rises, it automatically turns off.

Scheme of a five-layer design of a heating cable: 1 - copper wires large section; 2 - self-regulating conductive material; 3 - modified polyolefin / fluoropolymer insulation (FS-C-2X); 4 - tinned copper braid for extra protection; 5 - outer insulation made of modified polyolefin

Choosing the type of cable and calculating its power

Installing a system to protect the water supply from interception and freezing allows you to lay pipes above the freezing level of the soil. In some cases, it is impossible to bury the pipeline deep into the ground due to objective reasons. Pipes, additionally heated by an electric cable, need thermal insulation. This helps to reduce heat loss and economically use the potential of the heating element. Thickness thermal insulation material depends on the pipe diameter. The recommended values ​​of this parameter are given in the table:

The minimum thickness of the heat-insulating layer of the pipe, depending on its diameter

When selecting a heating cable and calculating power, take into account:

• water pipe diameter;
• the material from which the pipes are made;
• thickness of thermal insulation;
• heat losses of the pipeline, which must be completely blocked.

Features of installing a heating system inside the pipeline

This type of installation is chosen if the water pipes are already in operation and freeze in very coldy. If the self-regulating heating cable is to be installed inside a pipe with drinking water, then you must purchase a product that has a food suitability approval. The sheath of these cables is made of a fluoropolymer that is tested for food safety. A gland is required to insert the heating cable into the pipe.

Installation of a self-regulating heating cable inside the pipe goes through the gland

If it is brought into the pipe from above, then fixing its position is not required. If a heating element is supplied from below, then to prevent its slipping, reliable fixation is required.

To install a heating cable inside a pipe, it is necessary to accurately measure the length of the pipeline section that needs to be heated. It is forbidden to lay the heating cable through shut-off valves. The installation site of the water supply heating system is marked with a warning sign.

All actions when entering the cable into the pipe cavity must be carried out with special care and attention, since it cannot be damaged outer shell. It is better to close the threads on the fittings during installation with factory tape, like other sharp objects.

Methods for fixing the heating cable

1. Along the water pipe, one cable is laid in a straight line.

2. Unlike the first method, several cables are laid along the pipeline in a straight line, parallel to each other.

3. The laying of the electrical cable is carried out in a wavy line.

4. Heating cable water pipes wrapped around the pipeline in a spiral.

5. Several options for the location of the heating tape on individual elements of the pipeline (valves, elbows, flanges and other areas).

How to fix the heating cable over the pipe?

When installing the heating cable outside the pipeline, make sure that during operation there is no mechanical damage to the outer sheath (grinding, compression, crossing sharp edges, stretching). The electrical cable is tightly attached to the pipe with aluminum adhesive tape. It is strictly forbidden to use plastic tape instead of aluminum tape.

First attach the cable to metal pipe using separate pieces of aluminum tape, located at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Then, the same aluminum tape is passed over the cable along the entire length, which provides:

• lack of direct contact with the thermal insulation material;
• fastening strength to the pipe surface;
• large heat sink area.

Then, with the same aluminum tape, a sleeve is attached to the pipe, connecting the heating section to the supply wire equipped with a plug. The thermostat sensor is placed at an equal distance from the passing cable lines, secured with aluminum adhesive tape.

Important points to remember!

• Manufacturers advise mounting the heating cable on the elements of the water supply system at a temperature of minus 15 ° C and above.
• The minimum bending diameter of an electric cable is equal to the sum of six of its diameters.
• The pipeline heating system is supplied with a cable without fail with an RCD (residual current device), which is selected in accordance with the PUE.
• After completing the installation work, check the resistance of the heating cable and insulation.

In addition to water pipes, this product is used for heating roofs, gutters, sewer pipes, etc. It is better to entrust the selection and installation of a cable to professionals who know all the nuances of such work.

Quite often, repairs are required in the plumbing system due to freezing pipes in winter. To prevent accidents, heating is used through a cable installed inside or outside the pipe. Additional heating does not allow the pipelines to freeze, and it is easy to install with your own hands. The photo below shows how the heating cable is laid around the sewer pipe under insulation.

Heating cable around the pipe

Cable device

The basis of the pipeline heating system is a heating element located inside an insulating shell resistant to external influences. First of all, it should easily withstand temperature changes.

In fact, the pipe is heated through a cable, which has significant differences from conductors that transmit energy to the load. The heating cable itself is the load. When voltage is applied to it, the passing current generates heat, which is then transferred to the pipe. On fig. the scheme of heating the pipeline with a cable laid outside is shown.

Scheme of the pipeline heating system with a cable from the outside

The system includes the following parts:

• heating - cables with fastening elements (highlighted in red in the diagram and located along the pipes highlighted in blue);
• distribution - power supply cables (dark blue) and information transmission cables (green), junction boxes;
• control - protection equipment, start control, thermal control with air and pipe temperature sensors.

The heating cable is connected to the network by signals from temperature sensors. When the temperature of the environment rises (usually - more than 5 0 C), the cable is disconnected.

It is important to choose the right place to measure the temperature of the pipe. The sensor is usually placed at an equal distance between the turns of the cable.

Advantages of cable heating:

• ease of implementation;
• the possibility of equipping any pipeline;
• economy and safety when done correctly.

Cable types

The most common is a resistive cable. It is cheaper and easy to install. The cable is sold with one or two cores. Heating occurs due to ohmic losses in the heating core. If you install heating with your own hands, it can be successfully used. It is used for heating water pipes, sewer pipes, underfloor heating systems. Pipe diameter does not exceed 40 mm.

On fig. shown below are single-core (a) and two-core (b) resistive cables. The first is the cheapest and for do-it-yourself installation fit better Total. The disadvantage is the need to return the wire to the voltage source for connection. For a two-wire wire, a sleeve is needed at the end.

Single-core (a) and two-core (b) resistive cables

Resistive wire is sold in a certain length. If you cut it into pieces, you will have to reduce the supply voltage. Otherwise, the wire will simply burn out from overheating.

When heating tanks and pipes of larger diameter, self-regulating cables are used. They consist of two conductive wires. When voltage is connected to them, current flows from one core to another through a layer of electrically conductive plastic, causing it to heat up. The resistance value of plastic depends on temperature environment, which provides significant energy savings due to self-regulation. Its price is an order of magnitude higher, and it is better to invite specialists for installation.

Plumbing with do-it-yourself protection

Street water supply on the site can reach a length of several tens of meters. If in winter the water in it turns into ice, repairs can only be done in May, when the ground thaws.

Heating cable outside

The depth of pipe laying is chosen according to the level of freezing in the region. The indicator is taken as an average and in some cases it is not enough, for example, under a snow-cleared concrete path or paving stones. In such places, the laying of pipes is made even lower, otherwise they will have to be constantly repaired due to freezing. The entry of the water supply may be close to the surface of the earth or pass through cold cellar. It is advisable to choose pipes from plastic, for example, HDPE. They are cheap and withstand repeated freezing.

In order not to frequently make repairs to replace pipes, it is advisable to lay a heating cable along with them in difficult areas. Buying an expensive heating system is not always justified. An alternative to it may be the use of an ordinary field worker for communication - P-274. It has a very strong insulation, which does not require replacement and repair for years in operation in field conditions. The presence of steel wires in the cores together with copper wires creates additional resistance, due to which the cable can be used for heating. On fig. below is shown transverse section wires P-274.

Cross section of the field wire П-274

For safety, the P-274 field cable is not connected to a 220 V network. It requires a voltage of about 1-1.5 V per running meter cable. If we take it with a length of 30 m, a voltage of 36 V is required. The current will be 8-10 A, and the temperature will reach 60 0 C. This is quite enough to melt the ice in the pipeline. Power can be made from a separate unit with a transformer.

For heating, you can even use a regular TRP telephone wire (fig. below). With it, you can also heat the fittings if the winding is made denser.

Application telephone wire for pipe heating

The field cable is wound on the outside of the pipeline in increments of about 10 cm (fig. below). Since it is cheap, you can wind another backup cable, since the next pipe repair will not be soon, but any homemade devices usually small. Two heaters can be connected at the same time in case of pipe freezing.

Aluminum tape is wound on top, which allows you to create a more uniform heating of the pipe. Aluminum foil provides better heat dissipation from the cable and does not allow it to overheat surrounded by insulation.

In regions with a cold climate, it is recommended to make the cable winding step more often. As a result, the heating efficiency is improved. In any case, the length of the spiral must be at least 1.7 times the length of the heated pipeline. If the pipe heating is installed correctly, it can work in any weather conditions, and it will not need repairs for a long time.

Application of the P-274 field cable for heating water pipes

When repairing water pipes, they should be insulated. On the one hand, the heat from the cable will not go into the ground, and on the other hand, the insulation protects the pipe and cable from the action of the soil.

In potentially dangerous places of the pipeline, 2-3 temperature sensors are installed. Soldering points are protected by heat shrink tubes with sealant. The temperature can be controlled automatically or manually.

The heating cable must be powered. At a large distance from the shield, a junction box is used. You can install a transformer in it.

More heaters are attached to the fittings, since more heat is needed there.

Cable from the inside

If it was not possible to install a heating cable when laying pipes, it can be placed inside an existing water supply system. Cable P-274 is resistant to water. A double wire can be untwisted and one core can be passed into the pipe, bending it in the middle. Then it is not necessary to strip the insulation to create a connection.

The cable is inserted into the water supply through a tee. To enter it, you can use the filter housing. It is important to ensure the tightness of the input. To do this, a fitting is screwed into the tee. A wire is inserted into it, after which the fitting is filled with epoxy glue such as " cold welding". On fig. Below is a section of pipeline with a wire from the field cable installed inside.

Installing a heating cable inside a pipeline section

There may be no water in the pipeline. It has been experimentally established that at a current of 9 A, the cable heats up in the absence of water to 62 0 C. In this state, it can remain for a long time.

The internal installation of the heater has the following disadvantages:

• reduction of the through hole;
• overgrowing of the conductor with a raid;
• the complexity of the plumbing scheme reduces its reliability.

Along with the disadvantages, there are also advantages:

• possibility of installation on the existing pipeline;
• little heat loss.

A flexible heating cable is preferably carried out on straight sections of the pipe or with small bends.

If the pipeline is rarely used, for example, in country house, water can be drained from it. Then there is no need to turn on the heating cable.

Connection

The heating part of the cable must be connected to the "cold" one. In addition, it is necessary to reliably protect the conductors at the free end of the heater from moisture ingress with heat shrink tubes. The connection to the power cable is made through the lugs. The more reliable the connection, the less often the heating cable will need repairs.

Video about connection

How to connect a heating self-regulating cable with a termination kit can be found in the video below.

To prevent freezing of pipelines, special heating systems of varying complexity are used. To save money, you can install a heating cable with your own hands, for example, a telephone cable - P-274. The heating system can be made automatic with a thermal relay or with manual activation.

A cable that, when passed through it electric current heats up in a controlled manner (this is important!) - a real find for a master heat engineer. Such conductors can also be used for underfloor heating, and so that the pipes do not freeze and burst in the cold. Of course, there are a lot of secrets and unobvious tricks here - I will help you figure out the nuances!

Types of cables for heating

Resistive Models

Conductors that are used for laying underfloor heating, as well as for heating sewer and water pipes, work on the same principle. All of them have a fairly high resistance, and when current flows through them, they heat up. A significant part of the heat is transferred to the wire sheath, and from it to the surrounding objects.

And yet there is a difference in the operation of different heating cables. According to the method of heat distribution, products are divided into:

1. Resistive.
2. Self-regulating.

A resistive cable is a conductor with a constant degree of heating, which is regulated only by a change in the applied voltage. Because of this, resistive cables are almost always connected through a thermostat that automatically controls power and prevents overheating.

Types of resistive heating cables:

1. Single core- the simplest and most affordable. The basis is a nichrome wire with a fixed resistance. When turned on, the wire heats up, transferring heat to the heat-resistant polymer sheath and copper braid. The casing is usually responsible for waterproofing.

The design of the braid and shells is different for different models. For example, for laying in a loaded screed, I would recommend choosing the so-called armored cables. They have a thicker braid, which conducts heat less well, but resists compression much better.

1. Two-core- more complex due to the fact that their conductive and heating cores are separated. On the other hand, they do not give such strong electromagnetic interference with the same heating efficiency.

1. Zonal- the most complex structures with segment insulation. At the junction of individual insulation segments (usually every 0.8–1 m), the braid is closed to a current-carrying core. Thanks to this, each segment is heated separately, which makes it possible to equalize the temperature of the pipe or the heated area of ​​the floor.

The advantages of resistive conductors, I would include simplicity and reasonable cost.

If we talk about the minuses, then this is a mandatory connection to the thermostat, the impossibility of cutting to length, as well as the risk of burnout with insufficiently efficient heat dissipation.

Models with self-regulation

An alternative to resistive models is a self-regulating heating cable. It can also be connected through a thermostat, but the design of the product itself provides protection against overheating:

1. cable base- two conductive wires. Typically, nichrome conductors are used in a shielding braid and reliable insulation.
2. The matrix is ​​responsible for heating and adjusting the operation. It is located between the conductors and is a plate, the conductivity of which depends on temperature. The more the matrix heats up, the less conductive tracks remain on it, and the less the incoming voltage will be.

1. The main advantage of the system is feedback. To prevent the cable from burning out due to overlap, poor heat dissipation, etc., the matrix automatically reduces its conductivity when a certain temperature is reached. Due to this, not only the integrity of the conductor is preserved, but also the heating efficiency is increased.

By increasing the efficiency, you can save a lot. This is best felt when using underfloor heating in fairly large rooms.

Disadvantages of self-adjusting products:

1. Short service life of the thermal cable. After 10–15 years of service, errors begin to accumulate in the matrix, and the risk of overheating due to inefficient regulation increases. That is why I would not advise laying self-regulating conductors in a capital screed.
2. High price. The cheapest models cost about 200-350 rubles per meter, which is much more expensive than resistive products.

On the other hand, when mounting with your own hands, self-adjusting products can be cut into fragments of the desired length. This is not only convenient, but also economical: we can buy a cable of exactly the length that is needed for laying outside or inside or for heating a section of the floor.

Example 1. Pipe heating

Securing the conductor from the outside

One of the areas in which heating cables are traditionally used is the heating of sewer and water pipes. The installation of such products allows you to protect the contents of the pipe from freezing even in the most severe frosts, so that ice plugs do not form and the risk of a rush will be minimal.

The heating cable can be installed both outside the pipe and inside the pipe lumen. The first method is simpler and more common, so I will start the description with it:

Illustration	Outdoor heating installation stage
	Cleansing lived. The end of the cable, which we will connect to the power wire, is cleaned of insulation and braid, exposing the conductive cores.
	Compound. Using twists or limit switches, we connect the cores of the wire for connecting to the network with the cores of the heating cable, observing the polarity.
	Connection isolation. All wire connections are isolated with heat shrink tubing. After the installation is completed, we push the common coupling onto the junction and warm it up building hair dryer, carefully insulating the contacts and protecting them from moisture.
	Pipe surface preparation. We clean metal pipes from dust and rust. It is desirable to wrap plastic pipes with foil for better thermal conductivity.
	Cable installation. We stick the cable on the foil surface, fixing it on top with aluminum-coated tape.
	Tie-down fixing. To increase reliability, we fix the cable with plastic ties. We try not to damage the insulation of the conductor.
	Heat-insulating casing. To increase the efficiency of cable heating, we put a heat-insulating casing made of foam plastic, polyurethane foam or similar material on a pipe with an installed conductor. We fix the insulation with metallic tape.
	Installation on a large diameter pipe. When insulating sewer pipes, a spiral cable laying scheme is used. This allows the pipe to be heated as efficiently as possible around the circumference and prevents the formation of ice plugs.
	Applying a reflective layer. We glue each turn with foil tape for more efficient heat transfer.
	Heating of valves. So that, if necessary, we can disassemble the system to replace the tap, clean the pipe, etc., the cable opposite the locking elements is fixed in the form of a loop. The length of the loop is selected in such a way that we can wrap the pipe with it and fix the conductor.

The video in this article, as well as photo and video materials from other articles in the section, will help you learn more about the method of fixing heating wires on pipes.

Insertion of the heating element inside the pipe

Cable laying in a pipe is also possible. Moreover, in some cases - for example, when there is a risk of theft or when it is necessary to heat an already laid circuit - this is the only reasonable solution.

The technology for laying heating elements in pipes with a diameter of 20 mm or more is shown in the table.

How to connect the heating element to the conductor used to connect to the network, I have already described in the previous section.

Illustration	Stage of cable installation in the pipe clearance
	Passage assembly. To install the cable inside the pipe, we first mount the so-called "driving" - a set of fittings that ensures the hermetic introduction of the conductor into the pipe clearance. To seal the conductor in the penetration, an gland with a washer is installed, which is fixed with a clamping nut.
	Putting on a sealing knot. We put on a heating cable with a trailer: clamping nut; puck; stuffing box; one more puck. The most difficult thing is with the gland, because the diameter of the hole in it is less than the diameter of the cable, and even more so - less than the diameter of the end protective sleeve. When putting on, we try not to damage the part, because this will lead to loss of tightness.
	Passing through the pass fitting. We bring the heating cable into the penetration and stretch it along the entire length until the gland assembly moves to the connection point of the heating cable with the power cable.
	Institution in the pipe. The pass fitting is installed at the inlet to desired pipe and fixed union nuts. After that, we advance the cable inside the tube lumen until it is completely moved to where it is needed.
	Seal fixing. We fix the stuffing box assembly on the penetration with a clamping nut. The nut must be tightened tightly, but do not overtighten. So the gland will press against the cable, but will not damage the insulation.

Example 2. Floor heating

Calculation of cable heating

In addition to protecting pipes from frost, heating cables are also used for floor heating systems. In contrast to the film underfloor heating, the cable is convenient primarily because the density of its installation can be adjusted.

The efficiency of floor heating with a cable laid in a screed is ensured by its correct layout. In this case, it is necessary to focus on the power consumption of the room:

When calculating a warm floor, please note that heating cables are laid only in areas free of furniture. Conductors located under a heavy headset can suffer from either pressure or overheating due to poor heat dissipation. Well, heating the bottom of the cabinet or kitchen cabinets at your own expense is also not a good idea.

We do the calculations like this:

1. Calculate desired length cable. To do this, we multiply usable area premises by the specific power consumption and divide by the linear power of the cable itself (indicated by the manufacturer).
2. Determine the laying step. At the same time, we multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by 100 and divide by the length of the cable in meters, calculated earlier. We get optimal distance between the turns of the heating conductor in centimeters.

The optimal step value is from 6 to 15 cm. In this case, the heating is both intense and fairly uniform (we do not feel the difference between the temperature of different parts of the floor).

If, according to the calculations, the step is more than 15 cm, then you can go in two ways:

1. Increase cable length. If we take a conductor of the same power, we will get a performance margin. If, with an increase in pancakes, we buy a smaller cable, the heating will remain at the same level, but there is a chance to save.
2. Increase the thickness of the screed. Due to the thicker layer of cement on top of the conductors, the floor will warm up more slowly. But the uniformity of floor heating will increase.

When using mats, everything is quite simple: we simply select products with a suitable power density. Bearing in mind that there are mainly 120-160 W/m2 models on the market, there should be no problems.

Installation technology of cable underfloor heating

If you have calculated everything, then it remains for us to figure out how to properly mount the floor itself.

Illustration	Cable heating installation technology
	Preparation of mounting holes. Make a hole in the wall for installation junction box and thermostat. We cut out a strobe in the floor for laying the temperature sensor.
	Wiring. We install a socket in the hole, through which we start the wire from the shield. It is from him that the cable underfloor heating will be powered.
	Floor primer. The floor on which the heating cable will be laid is cleaned of debris and treated with a penetrating primer. If the coating has significant irregularities, then leveling with a screed may be required.
	Thermal insulation laying. If the warm floor is not laid under glue or screed, but under another floor covering, then it is advisable to lay an additional heat-insulating layer. Rolls of foil material are stacked end-to-end and glued with adhesive tape.
	Layout of heating mats. When using mats with a cable fixed on a polymer mesh, lay out the products on the floor. When making a turn, carefully cut the mesh, trying not to damage the cable.
	Attachment of mounting plates. When using a cable that is not fixed to the mats, we install steel mounting plates on the floor. We fix them to the base with anchors with plastic sleeves.
	Coiled cable laying. The cable is laid with the step that we determined in the calculations. For fixing, we press the cable with the protrusions of the mounting plates.
	Thermal sensor insert. We put the temperature sensor into the corrugated pipe, close it with a plug and put it in a strobe in the floor. We close the strobe with a solution. Connect the wire from the sensor to the thermostat.
	Connecting a thermostat. We connect the wires from the temperature sensor, heating cable and power cable to the thermostat terminal block. When connecting, we focus on the marking of the terminal block - it is important not to confuse the zero and phase from each wire.
	System check. We install the thermostat in the socket and apply voltage. We check the performance of the entire system: the cable should heat up evenly and quickly enough. We carry out the check in one to two minutes to exclude overheating.
	Laying the adhesive mixture. On top of the cable mats, apply about 5-10 cm of adhesive mixture for tiles. We level the mixture with a spatula and with a notched grater we form grooves without touching the conductors. We lay the glue without gaps, which can lead to a deterioration in heating floor covering due to the low thermal conductivity of air.
	Floor cladding. On the adhesive mixture laying tiles. We try to ensure that the lining of the entire surface is in contact with the adhesive - so the heat transfer will be more efficient.

Conclusion

Laying and connecting the heating cable is not the most simple tasks especially for a beginner. But if you focus on the voiced tips, as well as carefully study the video in this article, then most of the questions will disappear by themselves. In addition, by contacting me in the comments, you can always get advice on cable heating of the floor or pipes.

Low temperatures can cause freezing of water in sewer and water mains, which often leads not only to a cessation of water supply, but also to rupture of pipes. To avoid such problems, you need to use a heating cable that prevents ice plugs and provides the necessary pressure.

Important! If a new pipeline is being laid, then the use of a heating cable will significantly reduce the depth of the trench.

The principle of operation of the heating cable is extremely simple. The cable is heated by the electricity passing through it and prevents the pipeline from freezing to sub-zero temperatures.

When choosing one or another model, you should pay attention to the specific heat dissipation, which is measured in W / m and shows the power of the equipment per unit length.

The main elements of the heating cable (resistive cable)

It is worth remembering that cables with two or three cores have protection against electromagnetic waves, while single-core models do not have it.

Main types of heating cables

The heating element in such a cable can be of two types:

• resistive;
• self-regulating.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

The resistive type heating cable functions as follows: the inner and outer surfaces of the pipeline are wrapped with a cable and equipped with temperature sensors; the thermostat, based on the readings of the sensors, reacts to the slightest temperature changes in accordance with the specified parameters. When the temperature drops, heating is turned on - electricity is supplied to the cable, heat is released and water, respectively, heats up. Upon reaching the required level, an automatic shutdown occurs.

It is necessary to heat the water pipes

The cable itself consists of an insulated metal core. It heats up evenly along its entire length, but if you do not control the temperature, then burnout is possible. To increase the heating efficiency, the pipeline should be insulated - this will significantly reduce heat loss and, as a result, energy costs. In this case, any material that does not conduct heat can be used as a heater - for example, mineral wool.

Self-regulating cable

It appeared when searching for an alternative to the resistive version and has excellent technical and functional properties. It can be used not only in pipelines, but even on the roofs of buildings to avoid the formation of "icicles".

The structure of the self-regulating cable axis is as follows: two conductors, separated from each other, are insulated with a polymer, which, as you know, reacts to the slightest temperature changes, changing its resistance. This resistance decreases in proportion to the temperature, which increases the current strength.

The reaction to a temperature drop can occur at any point of the wire, therefore, the temperature in different sections of the pipeline is always different. In addition, the self-regulating cable is economical and absolutely safe, because it is equipped with high-quality insulation. It is used in almost all areas of industry and everyday life, and the service life, even with permanent use, exceeds forty years.

Important! During installation, the cable is cut into pieces of various lengths - this in no way affects the efficiency of work.

Manufacturers

Most famous manufacturer heating cable in the domestic market is Ensto, which manufactures a wide range of products various sizes(from 2 to 25 m) and modifications. It is also possible to cut to length.

A budget option, which is practically not inferior in quality, can be considered Devi plumbing heating cables, which are also often found in hardware stores.

Do-it-yourself heating cable: manufacturing instructions

Factory models are quite expensive, so with minimal skills and dexterity, you can make a homemade cable using alternative materials.

Stage 1. First you need to find this very alternative. Experts advise replacing the heating cable with a "field worker" - a military field telephone cable that has the official marking P274-M. Its advantages include a small diameter, rigidity, strength and good insulation (it is thanks to the latter that the cable can be used in a humid environment).

Of course, such a cable cannot be compared with store-bought counterparts. For example, it will not have a self-regulating function or food isolation. But if the cable will be used only occasionally (say, in the country, where in winter time come infrequently) and will be laid not inside, but outside the pipeline, then the above qualities can be completely dispensed with.

Stage 2. When installing the "field worker", it should be dissolved into a pair of separate wires. One of the wires is bent in half and twisted back in half. At the open ends, it is necessary to ensure a tight cable entry, for which it is better to use a flange from a water hose. To ensure the tightness of the input, a fitting with wires threaded inside is used.

Stage 3. The fitting is filled with epoxy glue and flattened somewhat. For a stronger connection, a union nut is used.

When laying a cable over a pipe, no opening of the “field worker” is required, it is only necessary to connect the wires on the back side of the heated section of the line. All connections are carefully insulated.

Important! The cable must be fixed on the surface as tightly as possible.

Everything happens like this:

• the pipe with the cable is wrapped in foil;
• tape is wound on top - it will press the cable to the surface;
• then everything is wrapped with mineral wool.

This technology allows you to heat not only water, but also sewer pipes.

Important! Max Strength the current passing through the "field worker" should be no more than 9A.

1. Installation can only be carried out before the system is connected to power. At the end of the installation, the correctness of each connection is checked.
2. A relay is used for automatic control.
3. It is recommended to install temperature sensors along the entire length of the pipeline, due to which the system will turn on / off only when necessary.
4. For visual control of the heating system, it is desirable to install a color indicator.

Installing a heating cable on a sewer pipe

The heating cable is a regular wire with adjustable electrical resistance.

Important! The cable may only be attached to outer surface sewer pipes.

There are two installation methods:

• along the pipe in the form of one or more parallel lines;
• around the pipe in the form of a spiral (provided that the length of the cable allows).

Stage 1. First, the pipe is wrapped with foil to ensure uniform heating of the entire surface.

Stage 2. The cable is fixed with a dense heat-resistant tape.

Important! The resistive cable must not be twisted! Only a self-regulating cable can withstand this, since it will not burn out.

Stage 3. Thermal and waterproofing is laid, after which the temperature sensor is fixed (using the same heat-resistant tape).

Stage 4 . On top of all this, a markup is carried out, which will testify to the placement of a heating cable on the main line.

If you strictly follow this instruction, then the liquid in the pipes will not freeze even in the most severe frosts.

How to connect the cable

Stage 1. First, a heat-shrinkable tube is put on the cable. Then one end of the cable is cleaned 5 cm from the sheath and 1 cm from the braid. The wires are separated and stripped of insulation.

Stage 2. Each of the wires is put on additional pipe smaller diameter, after which it is heated with a mounting hair dryer, gently holding it with tweezers. The ends of the wires are stripped 0.6 cm, twisted, inserted into a metal tube and clamped.

Stage 3. The power cable is peeled from the sheath by 8 cm and unraveled for individual wires. All wires are cut to 3.5 cm, with the exception of one - it will become an 8 cm ground. After that, they are all cleaned by 0.6 cm.

Stage 4. The supply wires are connected to the heating ones. To do this, they are placed in a small heat-shrinkable tube with an iron sleeve, heated and clamped. All connections are insulated with heat-resistant tape.

Stage 5. The connection is closed with a larger diameter pipe.

1. Pipes outdoor sewerage leading to the VOC or septic tank.
2. Pipes leading from the septic tank to drainage system or filter well.
3. Pipes used to drain wash water from the filter.

Often these pipes are heated in one of two ways:

• using pipes with a built-in heating system;
• heating cable.

You already know about the cable, it remains to talk only about thermally insulated pipes. They are a sandwich system consisting of plastic pipe, self-regulating cable axis, as well as from hydro- and thermal insulation. Such pipes allow you to do without installing a cable, but at the same time they are quite expensive.

conclusions

As you can see, there is a fairly simple way to protect the pipeline from freezing - this is a heating cable. It is sold in many specialized stores, but if you wish, you can make it yourself.

Video - Do-it-yourself heating cable