How to plant old strawberries. Planting and growing strawberries

In order to always get a good and rich harvest, it is necessary to periodically transplant strawberries to another place. The fact is that the level of fruiting by 3-4 years is reduced, and the plant is subject to renewal. Let's look at how to properly plant strawberries in order to avoid accidental mistakes and achieve a good harvest.

What to pay attention to

Caring for a strawberry plantation is not as difficult as it might seem to an inexperienced gardener at first glance. It is only necessary to water it, weed the ground from weeds in time and prevent the growth of strawberry bushes, as this leads to a decrease in its yield. To prevent strawberries from growing, you should periodically remove the tendrils that appear.

However, you should not touch the bushes that you plan to use for propagation. For this purpose, it is desirable to select those plants that fruited abundantly in the previous year. In the spring, flowers will have to be cut off from their surface until the berries are tied. If you miss this moment, the prepared bushes will be unsuitable for propagation.

When you notice that a rosette has formed on the antennae, it must be pressed with a hairpin to the ground. This will allow it to take root faster in the soil. The same actions should be performed with other outlets that appeared on the bushes you left for reproduction.

When should strawberries be planted?

The best time to transplant strawberry bushes is mid-summer. As a rule, this is either the third decade of July or the beginning of August. However, it is best to be guided by the weather. It should not be rainy or too hot and sunny. For transplanting plants, it is recommended to choose a cloudy and warm day.

As a rule, strawberries are planted in the evening before sunset. This will allow young, only transplanted bushes not to immediately suffer from the scorching sun, but to slowly get used to the new land.

Despite the foregoing, the time when strawberries should be planted directly depends on the climatic conditions in a particular area. For example, in southern regions Russia is best to hold this event no later than July 20, and in middle lane countries - after this period (tentatively at the beginning of August).

Land preparation

Before planting strawberries, you must first prepare the beds.

The land plot is chosen where marigolds, onions, garlic, tomatoes, cereals or legumes used to grow. In this case, you can be sure that the earth will be saturated with all the useful trace elements that are necessary for the full development of young plants.

In addition, pay attention to the fact that strawberries are shade-tolerant plant and requires a lot of moisture for its growth and development. Therefore, a plot of land adjacent to the garden and located in the shade of fruit trees can be a good choice.

To begin with, the site is dug up with a shovel or special equipment, cleaned of weeds, old foliage and grass. Fertilizers (organic or inorganic) are applied to the ground. Most often, humus or manure is used to feed the soil.

preparation land plot and seedlings need to be dealt with in the spring. Initially, you select the most suitable plantation for these purposes and strawberry bushes for propagation. As soon as the flowers appear, they should be immediately cut off until the berries are tied. In the current season, you will not get strawberries from these bushes, but next year, with the right actions, they will appear in abundance. large berries.

No further intervention from you other than regular watering is required. Please note that up to 30 strawberry bushes can be obtained from one mother plant.

The procedure is not particularly difficult and does not require preparation. You can follow the recommendations in this article and be sure to get next year a wonderful harvest of sweet berries.

Most popular transfer method

Let's take a closer look at how to plant strawberries in spring universal way so that the next season she gave a rich harvest. This process should be started when the land is fully prepared.

Watering young bushes should be carried out quite often, about 2 times a day. At the same time, the amount of water should be small so as not to flood the plant, not to cause its decay and further death.

Twice a week, you should loosen the soil around the bushes of transplanted plants. This should be done to a depth of no more than 3-4 cm, so as not to accidentally damage the fragile roots.

If you correctly carried out all the above steps, by winter the plant will pass the vegetation stage necessary for its further development and a full-fledged bush will turn out of it. You will already receive the first harvest of strawberries next spring. With the right actions, you are guaranteed to be provided with a large number of large, juicy and sweet berries.

Planting strawberries in spring - video

Another way to transplant using antennae

There are many options for planting strawberries in the spring. In addition to the universal one discussed above, you can use another very interesting and effective option.

After rosettes appear on the antennae left for breeding, they should be carefully fixed with hairpins in small cups (for this purpose, you can use a plastic jar of sour cream or baby yogurt). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that you do not accidentally tear the outlet from the bush.

Please note that the cup must first be filled with earth, which you can take on the site prepared for transplanting strawberries. To root system the young plant developed correctly and well, the soil in the cup should be constantly moistened with clean warm water.

When 3-4 new leaves appear on the young shoot, the outlet with garden shears must be separated from the mother bush. The plants, together with the earth, are taken out of the cup and placed in the wells in the manner described above.

Transplanting strawberries by dividing the bushes

You can propagate strawberries not only with the help of antennae. There are other ways. For example, you can plant strawberries by dividing the bushes. This option is most suitable for varieties that produce little or no tendrils.

Let's take a closer look at how to properly plant strawberries by dividing. This requires the following procedure:

The main condition is that the soil must always remain moist so that the plant takes root and the root system begins to develop in the new soil.

How to plant strawberries - video

It has long been known that fruits bring great benefit the human body, not to mention the fact that they are also very tasty. One of the first we are pleased with strawberries, enriching the immune system with a huge amount of useful substances. This berry is delicious both fresh and as jam, jam and more, because there is not much of it. Since the culture is early, then buy it in large quantities difficult due to the high price, but you can grow your own. You can not do without knowledge of how exactly the process of seating this plant is carried out.

Mustache breeding

To make a big plantation from a small garden delicious berry there are various ways. Each of them is good in its own way, but each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Since strawberries throw out whiskers in the process of growth and development, the reproduction process can be considered the simplest with precisely these parts of it. This is natural option, with the help of which culture can generate itself, but to obtain good results, one cannot do without human intervention.

The mustache that grows on the side of the bush, over time, begins to form its own root system and take root. If this is not prevented, then the plantation turns out to be very thickened, as a result of which the berry grows small. The advantage of such natural reproduction is complete transfer of varietal characteristics to a young plant.

To get new bushes by dividing with a mustache, you need to select several plants that are distinguished by good external data and give a stable and tasty harvest, and leave them for reproduction.

Those bushes that give life to new shoots will not be able to give an abundance of strawberries, therefore it is not recommended to overload them with this task. The main plantation will be aimed at obtaining tasty fruits, and some of the plants will prepare young bushes, which will bring the first harvest in a year. An ordinary healthy bush can give quite a lot of whiskers, which will greatly weaken mother plant, therefore it is worth normalizing them, leaving no more than seven. The optimal number of processes will make them stronger and form a powerful root system that can take root in the shortest possible time and give impetus to further development.

Strawberries are able to throw out whiskers from the beginning of summer, when the temperature environment and the length of daylight hours will be most suitable, but those shoots that were grown in July are best taken root. strong plant gives a tendril not with one outlet, but with three or more, but the first one growing near the mother bush is the most suitable for reproduction. In order not to waste his strength, it is worth trimming the mustache immediately after the first outlet.

If there is a need to grow a large number of seedlings, you can leave two outlets and remove the tip of the process.

The mother bush should be completely focused on the reproduction process, therefore it is important to monitor the appearance of flower stalks and get rid of them immediately so as not to waste the culture's strength on unnecessary activities. The process of propagating strawberries with a mustache is carried out according to a certain algorithm.

• Bushes for propagation are selected that can give good material for seating.
• After the appearance of the mustache, their number is normalized, and all peduncles are removed.
• When roots form on rosettes, they must be pressed to the ground with a wire or in another way. In this place, fertile soil is poured for rooting. You can use a peat glass, which is dug into the ground in the place where the outlet is located, after which rooting occurs in it, and not a single root suffers when excavated.

• Water the young plant every three days. The soil should be moist and the soil loose.
• As soon as the outlet is fully formed, having at least four fully developed leaves and roots about 7 centimeters long, you can transplant to permanent place. The most acceptable period for seating is the end of August and until the second half of September. It is important to carry out work in dry weather without scorching sun, in the morning or in the evening, in order to provide the plants with the most comfortable conditions.
• The socket must be separated from the mother plant and transferred to a permanent place by digging it from the ground along with the soil in which it grew. The mustache is cut 10 cm from the mother bush. To young plant was not so dependent, you can cut the mustache in advance, gradually weaning it from the original source of nutrition.

If everything is done correctly, then the new bushes will quickly take root and have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In order for rooting and development to go faster, it is important to plant strawberries on a prepared bed, where suitable predecessors grew: carrots, radishes, beets and herbs.

The soil should be light and nutritious, for which you need to make right amount fertilizers. disembarkation berry culture under such conditions will give excellent results.

Bush division method

Work on the development of new varieties of strawberries is ongoing to this day, which makes it possible to obtain not only increased yields and a pleasant taste of the berry, but also a partial or complete absence of mustaches that waste the plant's strength. These can include remontant varieties, for planting which the method of dividing the bush is used. This option allows you not to stop the fruiting process, which makes it possible not to lose the crop, but at the same time to get the right amount of new bushes at the right time.

Only completely healthy plants with a strong root system can be used for division. Bushes should not be propagated if they show signs of pest damage, because new bushes will have the same problems, which will negatively affect the quantity and quality of the crop. You can divide the culture with horns, but they are formed in adult plants, 2-4 years old, so young plantings do not need to be used.

One large full-fledged strawberry bush can produce at least five and up to 15 shoots, the main thing is that each of them has a heart and roots.

The division procedure can be carried out during the growing season, but the most comfortable conditions for this are in early August. The process of reproduction of the bush occurs according to a certain pattern.

• Choose the strongest and healthiest plant, dig it up with the ground so as not to damage the roots.
• If there are dry or yellow leaves, they must be removed, and the entire bush placed in a container with warm water. To disinfect the roots and protect the bush from diseases, you can add potassium permanganate to the water.
• As soon as all the earth comes down from the roots and sinks to the bottom of the tank, you can start dividing the bush. It is desirable to unravel the roots with the help of hands, without using cutting objects. During operation, it is important not to use excessive force so as not to damage the heart. If you need to cut something, a sharp object is used, which must first be disinfected.

• When preliminary preparation finished, the plants are left to dry the roots. At this time, it is possible to examine them well and remove all problem areas by covering the cut with chalk powder, activated carbon, wood ash or cinnamon.
• When everything is ready, the sockets land on the place that has been prepared for them. To stimulate the growth of the root part, you need to cut the deciduous part somewhere in half.

It is not always possible to achieve a good capable outlet, therefore small and weak options are planted in cups and grow from one to two months before planting them in open ground.

Following all the instructions, you can easily plant one bush, getting a lot of new shoots from it, which will quickly please you with ripe and tasty berries.

How to propagate from seeds?

There are many options for exactly how strawberries can be planted, and in addition to tendrils and dividing the bush, there is one more, which is also quite popular. This is propagation by seeds. To get seed material from berries, you need to do everything correctly preparations, as well as know how to germinate and plant the resulting plants. Often this option is used by breeders who are puzzled by the development of new varieties and hybrids, but anyone can try it.

The advantage of propagation through seeds is the absence of any possibility of transmitting the disease from the mother plant to the new one. The disadvantage can be considered the inability to grow a hybrid variety in this way.

To get seeds yourself, you need to choose a good, large and ripe strawberries, cut off its top layer no more than two millimeters thick, cut into thin strips and put in a dry, warm place for drying. It is important that direct sunlight does not fall on the seeds.

After two or three days, the pulp is separated from the fingers with the help of fingers. planting material, which is collected in cloth bags or glass jars for storage in a dry and cool place. To speed up seed germination, it is necessary to stratify by placing the planting material in sand or peat and put the container in the refrigerator for two months.

It will be optimal to use a box for vegetables and fruits, where the temperature is approximately +4 degrees, and there are no sharp jumps. If the substrate dries out, it must be moistened, maintaining right conditions for seeds.

The process of planting seeds occurs in February, for which you need to purchase universal soil. To protect future plants from diseases, a little wood ash or powdered chalk should be added to the soil.

Before planting the seeds, it is important to disinfect the land in which they will be planted, for which boiling water is passed through it, it is calcined in the oven or frozen in the freezer.

When a week remains before planting, the soil is soaked in a solution of "Fitosporin", "Trichodermin", "Baikal", "Aktofit", after which it is well dried. To plant strawberry seeds, you need to carry out a number of activities.

• Soak the seed material for 5 hours in a biostimulator. After placing the seeds in the solution, you need to immediately remove those that have surfaced, as they are not suitable for germination. To prepare seeds for different conditions environment, it is recommended to harden them for a period of three days, laying them out in damp gauze in the freezer at night and in the warmest place during the day.
• Choose a container in which the landing will be made. These should be wide containers, fill most of them with prepared soil. The first layer is a drainage layer 1-2 cm thick made of expanded clay, then the soil itself, which needs to be moistened and compacted.

• Rows are formed at a distance of four centimeters, into which the seeds will fall. It is worth deepening them no more than half a centimeter, without falling asleep on top of the earth.
• Cover the container with film or glass and place in a dark but warm place until the first sprouts appear. Every day, planting should be ventilated for about ten minutes, and the soil should be moistened with a spray gun when it starts to dry out.
• When sprouts appear, the film or glass must be removed, and the container should be moved to the most illuminated place in the room. It is important to use additional lighting to extend daylight hours to 14-16 hours. During seed germination optimal temperature it will be +23.25 degrees, and at the time of growth of green sprouts, it should be reduced to +18.20 so that the seedlings do not tend to rise too much.

• As soon as more than two leaves are formed on the plant, it is necessary to significantly reduce temperature regime up to +12.15 degrees. Important: moisten the ground only if the top layer dries up, otherwise you can cause black leg disease. During this period, watering the leaves should be avoided, because moisture is applied with a pipette directly to the roots, this procedure is performed once a week. If traces of mold appear, then you need to treat the soil with a fungicide.
• After a few weeks, you can add a mixture of sand and peat under the root, which activates the growth of the root system.
• With the advent of more than four leaves, you need to dive the plant. To facilitate the process of excavation of seedlings, it is necessary to water it well and extract it along with the clod of earth in which it grew. Planting is carried out in cups, in which moderate watering and cultivation are carried out before planting in the ground.

• After 1-2 weeks, you need to make the first fertilizer. The next cycles will be done every few weeks. It is worth choosing phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, in which the level of nitrogen is low.

You can plant seedlings when it has at least 6 full-fledged leaves and roots are developed. This usually occurs in May-June, when nighttime temperatures do not fall below +10 degrees Celsius. Until the moment of disembarkation, it is worth hardening the seedlings, taking them out into the street, increasing their stay there from one hour up to 14 hours.

All subsequent actions will be the same as when working with any strawberry seedlings, and after a while you will be able to observe a healthy plantation of berry crops.

Common mistakes

To quickly plant strawberries and get good harvest, it is important to choose the best bushes and decide on the method of reproduction. To avoid problems with this event, you need to know what errors can be.

• Hasty pruning of the tendril connecting the outlet and the mother bush, which leads to a longer survival and poor harvest, and sometimes to the death of the outlet.
• Lack of control over the number of mustaches and rosettes, which weakens the mother plant, and the resulting sprouts have inferior development and take root in a new place for a very long time.

• Performing a mustache transplant with rosettes several times. This leads to deformation and damage to the root system, which makes it difficult to quickly take root in a permanent place.
• The process of planting seedlings is carried out in an unprepared place. For example, this is soil with no fertilizers, as well as improperly selected useful material, too viscous or overdried soil.

Carrying out all the actions correctly, without repeating mistakes, you can quickly and efficiently get a good strawberry plantation in the country, which will please you with a powerful harvest in a year.

See the following video for the method of planting and growing strawberries.

How older bushes strawberries, the worse they will bear fruit. In order for the plant to please you with a rich harvest, strawberries must be planted periodically. The sweetest and largest berry grows on two-year-old bushes, so you yourself decide which bushes you will plant in one year and which in the next.

What is strawberry planting

The following two cases are called strawberry planting:

• Planting rooted strawberry mustaches on a separate bed.
• Dividing an adult bush into several parts and planting them on an old or new garden bed.

How to plant strawberries with a rooted mustache

Almost all varieties of strawberries, after fruiting, begin to grow the so-called mustache. Mustaches are long flexible shoots with several leaves at the end.

As soon as three or four young leaves grow at the end of the shoot, place plastic cups under them with nutrient soil. Make holes in the bottom of the cups to drain excess water when watering. In order for young bushes to securely cling to the ground and take root, pin them with metal brackets. Make brackets from thick wire and place them at a distance of 2 cm from the center of the future strawberry bush.

When the new plant is rooted and produces 6-7 good leaves, cut off long lashes in two places: near the old mother bush and near the new young bush. Remove the new bush from the cup directly with the ground and plant it in open ground.

Transplant a bush from a cup into the ground in August. This is necessary so that strawberries can take root in the garden before the onset of cold weather.

How to plant strawberries by dividing a bush

You can divide the bushes at the end of summer (August) and spring (May). To do this, dig out the old bushes from the ground. Gently shake off the soil from the roots. Divide the bushes into so-called horns (delenki) - help yourself with a thin sharp knife. Make sure that individual bushes have light roots. Throw away the horns with thick orange roots. Next, plant the horns on the prepared beds.

How to plant strawberries in the garden correctly

Correctly dividing strawberry bushes into horns or growing them in a glass is a rather important stage in planting. But if new bushes are planted in the ground incorrectly, then all the work can go to waste. In the photo you see how new bushes must be placed in the ground. Watch to root neck was at ground level. If the strawberries are deepened too much, they can rot; if not deepened at all, the bushes will dry out.

Any planted strawberries require further care. This means: top dressing, watering, removal of weeds from the beds. To make your life easier, plant new bushes on special beds covered with agrofibre. It will prevent weeds from germinating and will retain moisture under the bushes. The technology of such a landing is described in detail in this video.

First, let's figure out how strawberries differ from strawberries. In strawberries, the bushes are taller, the leaves are wrinkled, the flower stalks rise above the light leaves. The berries are smaller than those of strawberries. Garden strawberries are often called strawberries by gardeners. The technology of planting and growing is absolutely the same, so we will not pay attention to the difference between crops in our article. Whatever you call this sweet, juicy berry, its taste will not change from this.

Success Rules:

• Quality planting material.
• Correctly organized site for landing.
• Smart landing.
• Varieties of strawberries (small-fruited, large-fruited, remontant - continuously fruiting all spring, summer and autumn);
• The best predecessors: garlic, onions, dill, petunias, marigolds. The berry is returned to the old place after 5 years. If there is little food, the first collection is the largest, then the smallest.

Planting material can be obtained in several ways:

• buy;
• grow yourself from seeds;
• take mustaches from other bushes;
• dividing the bush (if the variety does not give a mustache).

Here you need to decide on the timing of landing. The berry is planted in autumn, spring and summer. When is the best time to plant strawberries? We believe that it is better to plant it in May, mid-July - early August. During these periods, it is not very hot, the seedlings take root well and give a good harvest the next year. All you have to do is water and feed the plants.

If we buy seedlings, then we give preference to plants with a closed root system, that is, in cups. It should be an annual seedling with roots no less than 5 cm long and 2-3 well-developed leaves. If there are flower stalks on the bush, then it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plant. The task is to get a large strong bush for the first year, and only then a harvest.

Growing strawberries from seeds

Good varieties: Baron Solemacher, Yellow Miracle, Fresco, Sashenka, Moscow delicacy. Strawberry seeds germinate only in the light. With artificial illumination, you can start sowing seeds in January. They are usually sown in March, when the length of the day increases. Spread on the surface of the soil, without sprinkling anything. It is convenient to sow in transparent food containers with a lid. It turns out a mini-greenhouse. Seeds can germinate for a month, sometimes one and a half. To stimulate germination, it is recommended to spray the seeds with a solution of HB-101 (1 drop per liter of water). The soil is watered with the same solution.

Illumination of seeds can and should be done using table lamp. An ordinary incandescent light bulb is changed to an energy-saving cold glow.

A table lamp is placed at a height of 15 cm above a bowl or container with seeds and illuminated for 12, and preferably 14-16 hours a day.

We must warn you that on a cold windowsill, the seeds are in no hurry to germinate and die in the ground. To do this, they organize a “warm” window sill - pieces of polystyrene are placed under the containers.

Large-fruited varieties can be sown in peat tablets. There are usually 5-10 seeds in a package, so the tablets will not take up much space. Tablets are soaked in water or a solution of the HB-101 preparation, diluting a drop per liter of water. They are also placed in a bowl under the film, creating greenhouse conditions.

When cotyledon leaves appear, you cannot immediately open a mini-greenhouse - the sprouts will fall and die. There was a certain humidity in the container under the lid, and the apartment air is dry - the leaves cannot cope with the evaporation of moisture and dry. The film (lid) is removed only when real leaves appear. Open gradually over several days so that the sprouts get used to the low humidity of the surrounding air. Droplets of condensate must be removed daily from the lid.

Site preparation

Before planting strawberries, prepare a place. A plot for strawberries is taken away in a sunny, ventilated place. There are traditional and natural agricultural techniques for growing crops. Traditional planting (normal) involves growing strawberries and getting the maximum yield in one area for 3-4 years. The bush bears fruit until it exhausts its strength completely. Then we usually say “the berry has degenerated” and almost completely renew the strawberries, transplanting them to another place. Natural agricultural technology allows you to get a full harvest up to 7-8 years in one place due to constant top dressing and special care.

By tradition, they are planted in ribbons of two rows with a distance between rows of 30 cm, between ribbons of 60 cm, keeping a distance between berry bushes of 15-25 cm. Or on beds 100 cm wide, bushes are planted in a checkerboard pattern after 50 cm, leaving a passage of 50 cm between rows .

Natural agricultural technology implies a slightly different planting pattern. The beds are made 50 cm wide. The bushes are planted in one row after 50 cm. The passage between the rows is 50 cm. Yes, no matter which method you choose, place the beds from north to south. At first it seems that a lot of space is left for seedlings. But remember, the berry will grow in one area for 5-8 years, the bush will grow and take up all the free space.

The site is cleared of weeds. Overripe organic matter is added at the rate of 3 buckets / m 2. You can add organics directly to the wells. Drip pits measuring 25x25 cm and the same hollow. The wells are filled with a mixture of:

• a bucket of compost;
• bucket horse manure(overripe);
• a bucket of soil from the garden;
• 2 cups of ash.

Instead of manure, you can take a bucket of compost mixed with 2 liters of biohumus.

How to plant strawberries

If seedlings:

• in a plastic pot - shed one hour before planting;
• in peat tablet- immerse in water for 30 seconds;
• open root system - stand for 10 hours in a solution of HB-101 (3 drops per liter of water).

The length of the roots is left up to 10 cm, the excess is cut off. If you have seedlings with a closed root system, then you can plant it throughout the summer. Seedlings with an open root system are planted in spring and August.

Although strawberries are the most common berry on plantations, many gardeners make mistakes when planting them. At the bottom of the planting hole we make a mound and put the plant on it. We make sure that the roots do not bend. As a rule, this happens when they are too long. In this case, we boldly cut off the excess with secateurs, shortening the roots to a length of 10 cm. We also make sure that the roots do not bend up, which is also wrong. Ideally, they should go straight down the mound.

Another important point. Many people bury the plant too deep. With a deep planting, the central kidney (heart) is below the soil level. In no case should this be allowed, as the heart will begin to rot and rot. The plant will most likely die. In the case of a shallow planting, seedlings are also doomed to an early death, as the heart dries up. The central kidney should barely protrude above the soil level. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, plus 0.5 liters of HB-101 solution (93 drops per liter of water) are poured under each bush).

Next, the strawberries are mulched with compost and covered with the thinnest covering material No. 17 (in 2 layers) or No. 30 for two weeks. It is simply thrown over plants without arcs. Why hide? The root system has not started yet. The leaves evaporate moisture, and the roots cannot yet deliver water from the soil to them. Plants may dry out. Under the covering material, a greenhouse effect is created, the seedlings take root better.

The question is often asked what materials can be taken as mulch. You can take grass, hay, straw, pine branches, rotted sawdust, rotted compost. The thickness of the compost layer should be 5-6 cm. The thickness of the layer of hay, straw, dry grass - 10 cm. Mulch is added every month throughout the season.

Ways to plant strawberries

We decided on the varieties, everything was clear with the planting schemes, we chose the dates. Now let's talk about the different ways of growing garden strawberries.

Planting with mulching film

We lay agrofibre. We lay the corners of the mulch film in the holes, sprinkle with earth around the perimeter. After we have laid the agrofiber, we proceed to planting strawberries. We make a small cross-shaped incision to just barely push the roots there. Then we tear a small hole under the film with our hands and lay the roots of the seedling. Fill with compost and water.

If you make a large incision, then weeds will climb from there, which will draw all the moisture out of the soil. Large seedlings under the mulching film should not be planted. Attention, if you decide to plant a berry in this way, then you need to provide the plant with food for 4 years in advance. For this, for each square meter add 2-3 buckets of rotted compost.

Planting strawberries on a straw mattress

We'll tell you interesting way planting garden strawberries on pea straw. After harvesting the peas, the tops are dug into the soil, forming straw mattress. The soil is shed with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen provides good resistance to pea tops. After about 3 weeks, strawberries are planted in this place. Important high quality mustache. A large mustache gives large berries the next year. The larger the planting material, the taller the plants will be, the thicker the flower stalks.

Strawberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The aisles are not dug up, but freed from weeds. You can plant directly from the edge of the garden, so that in the future the plant can use the soil between the rows. 3-4 rows of berries are placed on the garden bed. The width of the beds is calculated so that on each side you can easily reach the middle to care for the plantings.

After planting, they shed the earth well so that dirt forms. It is not for nothing that there is a proverb about strawberries: “If you plant them in the mud, you will be a prince.”

Often the antennae have underdeveloped roots. The next day after planting, the seedlings can dry out in the sun. To make the rooting process a little easier for them, the ground around them is sprinkled with hay for the next 3-4 days for shading. Hay can then be removed, or you can add more, it will turn out good thick layer mulch.

Pyramid garden

The beds, located up and taking up little space, are relevant for small summer cottages. To organize a pyramid-bed, you need 4 wooden bottomless boxes and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 2-2.5 meters. The boxes can be made by yourself.

The pipe is fixed and holes are drilled along the entire length of the pipe with an electric drill. They are needed for watering the pyramid beds. Don't have to do big holes they can get stuck in the ground. Water will find any hole anyway.

They choose a place for the pyramid and drive the pipe to a depth of 80-90 cm so that it holds tight. By the way, holes are not made in that part of the pipe that will be underground.

Then they take the largest box and put it on top of the pipe so that it runs exactly in the center, we strengthen it in the ground. The box can be dug in or spread with pegs: drive stakes into each corner with inside boxes.

Then they fall asleep in a box of good fertile soil, filling it to the brim and moderately compacting. So all the remaining boxes are strung on the pipe. For each next put a box of a smaller size. Four or five tiers will be enough to keep the pyramid stable and avoid problems with watering, caring for the berries, and harvesting.

In addition, you need to make sure that there is free space for strawberry seedlings. A piece of pipe should stick out above the last tier. It is easy to water plants from above through a pipe, having stuck a hose. Opposite each tier there are necessarily holes through which the soil will be moistened.

Your berry will grow no worse than in an ordinary garden bed. In summer, the bushes will bloom and the pyramid will turn into a white and pink flower bed, pleasing to the eye.

Subject to all the rules, the plants planted to you will take root well, take root and you will be guaranteed excellent harvest strawberries. By the way, do not forget that strawberries are recognized as one of the most delicious and useful berries in the world!

How to properly plant, plant, fertilize, water, protect against diseases and pests, and also feed strawberries in the spring?

Strawberries are one of the most popular berries growing in our country. In order to get a good harvest of this crop, you need to know a few rules for planting and caring for it. In this article, we will look at the procedure for planting and growing strawberries in spring period of the year.

How to plant strawberries in spring: step by step instructions

Step-by-step instruction planting strawberries in spring

Here are the main stages of planting strawberries in the spring:

Selection of planting material

Experienced gardeners think that quality seedlings must have the following characteristics:

• Roots in length - 8-10 cm (if longer, then they must be shortened to the specified value)
• Root collar diameter — 6mm
• The number of leaves - 5 pcs.

Landing site selection

• The optimal direction for growing strawberries in spring is the southwest direction.
• This crop grows very well on slopes with a small angle of 2-3 degrees, as well as in lowland areas.
• Professionals consider nightshade crops as unsuccessful predecessors for strawberries, as well as the strawberries themselves, which have been growing in this area for the last 4 years - it would be best to plant them in the soil in which cereal crops had grown before.
• Also an undesirable neighborhood for this sweet berry forest plantations and fields are considered, as strawberries may suffer from invasions of May beetles.

Soil preparation

• Optimal time to prepare the soil for strawberries for the next spring, the month of August is considered. During this period, it is desirable to remove all weeds from the planned site and dig it up.
• In the spring, a month before planting the crop, it is necessary to remove all weeds and disinfect the soil.
• On the eve of planting strawberries, if necessary, you need to destroy all weeds again and level the soil with a rake.
• Chernozem fertilized with ash, with an acidity of 5.5-6.5 pH, is considered the ideal soil for strawberries. Sour and peat soils for this berry are contraindicated.

planting strawberries

• Planting strawberries can be carried out in a single-line or two-line method.
• The single row method involves planting plants 16cm apart and 60cm between rows.
• With the two-line method, the row spacing is 30 cm, and the distance between the bushes is 60 cm.
• For spring planting strawberries, the two-line method is considered optimal, but even with a single-line method, you can get a good harvest of berries.
• The depth of the holes for the bushes should be from 7 to 10 cm, since the roots in them will be located vertically.
• If during the preparation of the site in the fall the soil was not fertilized, then after stuffing the holes in them, it is advisable to decompose ash, humus or chicken droppings.
• Planting material on the eve of disembarkation must be kept for 2-3 days in open boxes in the shade.
• If the rhizomes of plants look dry, then half an hour before planting they are best placed in water (a growth stimulator can be added to the liquid).
• Before planting strawberries, the wells must be filled with water (half a liter of water in each well).
• It is necessary to position the strawberry bush in the hole so that its core is level with the soil, and the roots are neatly straightened.
• Properly located, the strawberry bush must be covered with earth and mulched with peat or humus in a 2-3 cm layer.
• To make sure that the seedling sits securely in the ground, you can lightly pull the plant by the leaf - if it does not slip out of the hole, then the planting was done correctly.
• After planting, strawberries must be watered.
• If at the time of planting the seedlings the temperature outside is not too high, then the beds with strawberries can be covered with a film, and after warming, remove it.

How to plant or transplant strawberries in spring?

• First of all, it is worth saying that you can transplant or plant strawberries in spring, summer and autumn.
• Autumn is considered the most successful time for transplanting, but summer and spring are also suitable for these purposes.
• If planting strawberries in the spring, then this should be done in early April. Slow growth and development is typical for plants transplanted in late April or early May.
• A transplant is needed for strawberry bushes that have "sat" in one place for more than 4 years. Such plants are distinguished by the beauty of the bush, but the scarcity of the harvest - some bushes generally cease to produce berries.
• For transplanting strawberries, it is best to choose shady places with fertile soil.
• Potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, pumpkin, peppers, eggplants are considered bad predecessors for planting this sweet berry. These crops are able to deplete the soil and contribute to the breeding of pests that are dangerous for strawberries.
• Suitable soil will be in which legumes, parsley, radishes, celery, carrots or garlic grew before our berries.
• It is necessary to prepare the soil for transplantation in advance.
• A month or two before planting, the site must be cleared of weeds, dug up, fertilized and thoroughly moistened.

• To retain moisture as long as possible ready ground and contributed to the development beneficial organisms, the finished area can be covered with agrofibre.
• It is necessary to transplant strawberries on a not sunny, cool day. The air temperature must not exceed 20°C.
• If the weather is hot, sunny during the day, then it is better to postpone the seating procedure until the evening.
• As a transplant material, it is best to choose bushes of the second or third year of life. You can also use developed mustaches located next to the mother bush as seedlings. Their root system is much more developed than that of less mature antennae.
• You can transplant strawberries in a two-line or three-line method. With the three-line method, the distance between the bushes will be 30 cm, between the rows - 40 cm, and the width of the ridge will be 120 cm.
• After the holes in the prepared area are dug, they will need to be thoroughly moistened. When the water is completely absorbed into the ground, it is necessary to make the transplant itself.
• A bush for seating is dug out immediately before dipping it into a new hole.
• In order to dig up a strawberry bush, it is necessary to dig up the plant on both sides with two shovels at a distance of 5-6 cm from the bush and separate the desired sprout. An earthen ball should remain on the bush.
• The bush must be buried in such a way that its core is level with the ground, the roots are underground, and the foliage is above it.
• Immediately after transplanting, strawberries must be well watered.

How to process strawberries in early spring from diseases and pests?

How to protect strawberries from diseases and enemies in the spring?

Strawberries have a range of enemies and diseases. To combat each of them, you must use absolutely various ways and drugs.

Prevention from many pests and diseases can be the treatment of strawberry bushes in the spring with Bordeaux liquid, Topaz or Fufan.

If we consider each problem separately, then the following means should be used against it:

• Copper oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid or sawdust mulch will help in the fight against gray rot.
• Against black rot, it is recommended to use copper chloride or a light solution of manganese.
• Powdery mildew can be controlled with sulfaride, colloidal sulfur, a light manganese solution, or fungicides.
• With the spotting of bushes, it is advised to fight with copper chloride, and in last resort- sulfuric acid.
• You can try to exterminate the earthen tick with an infusion of dandelions, a decoction of tomato tops or Karfobos.
• Spider glue is afraid of infusion of wormwood or tobacco, Karbofos (after picking berries) or Fitover (at the end of flowering).
• With strawberry weevil, a decoction of fresh hellebore or wormwood, Karbofos (after harvesting) or Iskra-M is often used.
• Enemies such as wood lice, slugs or snails are afraid blue vitriol- it can be sprayed on plants or scattered between rows. Also effective in such cases are superphosphates (before the appearance of berries) and quicklime.
• Many gardeners plant calendula near strawberries to avoid the appearance of nematodes. If the disease nevertheless struck the plant, then you can try to dig out the diseased bushes and hold them in saline solution (15 g of salt per liter of water) for 15 minutes. Immediately after the procedure, the rhizomes should be thoroughly washed and planted back into the ground.
• In order to exterminate the larvae of the wireworm and the nutcracker, it is necessary to bury vegetables between the rows of strawberries. After a couple of days, vegetables with pests sitting in them should be dug up.

How to feed strawberries in early spring?

The first top dressing can be carried out with organic or inorganic fertilizers.

To organic fertilizers relate:

• chicken manure
• humus
• cow or horse dung

Organic fertilizers can simply be laid out under the strawberry bushes, or you can make aqueous solutions out of them. This type of top dressing is good because it is never too much, and because it is natural.

Attention! You only need to be careful with chicken manure, as it contains a high concentration of nitrogen, which can cause burns to the root system.

Inorganic fertilizers for strawberries must contain nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. You can feed strawberries with this type of fertilizer according to the instructions on the package. Salesman in the store mineral fertilizers can always tell you what type of top dressing is right for your strawberries, since you need to take into account its variety, age and climatic conditions region.

Pruning strawberries in spring: scheme

The opinions of experts regarding whether or not to prune strawberries in summer and autumn have long been divided. Many believe that this procedure only harms the plant, while others, on the contrary, are confident that after the removal of unusable shoots and leaves, the yield of strawberries increases significantly.

Whatever it was, but spring pruning Still need strawberries. It allows you to eliminate weak links in the whole bush, not to waste the plant's strength on unnecessary shoots and direct all its energy to the development of berries.

Spring pruning procedure:

• With secateurs or hands, we remove from the bush all dead shoots, damaged or darkened leaves, as well as foliage sprawled on the ground
• If planting a bush is not planned for the next year, then we also remove its young sockets
• In parallel with pruning, we clean the bushes from weeds
• Torn leaves and stems of strawberries, as well as weeds, are carefully removed from the site.
• We loosen the soil around the strawberry bushes with a steel twig
• Water the strawberries well
• We fertilize the plant

Watering strawberries in spring

Watering for strawberries has a very importance, since the entire period of the life of the plant, its leaves evaporate a large number of moisture. At the same time, the root system of strawberries is located in upper layers soil, which does not allow it to nourish moisture from the ground.

After planting young seedlings, they must be watered three times a day (3 liters of water per 1 square meter) daily for a half month. When the sprouts reach a two-week period, it is worth watering them in a day or two. All this time, the plant can be sprayed, and already with the appearance of flowers on its stems, it needs to be provided with drip irrigation.

Strawberries are a rather finicky and capricious plant. In addition, it is subject to attack by pests and numerous diseases. That is why experienced gardeners recommend caring for strawberries carefully and scrupulously.

Main Points proper care behind these little bushes are:

1. proper fit
2. frequent watering
3. timely top dressing
4. neatly trimmed bushes
5. daily inspection of the plant
6. proper pest and disease control

Only by observing all these rules, you can grow a healthy plant and get an excellent harvest of sugar strawberries.

How to properly care for strawberries in spring: Video