Planting strawberries in the fall, when and how to plant - tips and tricks. Strawberries: rules for transplanting sweet berries Planting strawberries with a mustache in August distance

How to plant strawberries in August in order to get an excellent harvest for next year? We have collected in one article the simplest recommendations, interesting tips and secrets that guarantee you enjoy the delicious and fragrant fruits of this amazing berry. Strawberries grown in the backyard bring a lot of pleasant emotions to the gardener. But to collect a rich harvest of this berry is not at all easy. Only knowing the secrets of planting and caring for it, you can grow delicious strawberries. New bushes of this berry are rooted in late summer or autumn. Consider the sequence of agricultural practices before planting seedlings of a given crop and methods for planting berry bushes. How to choose and buy strawberries for planting? How to choose the right material for planting? Experts recommend buying annual seedlings with a closed root system (in cups). They should have fibrous roots at least 5 cm long and no more than three well-developed leaves. Elite varieties of strawberries give a good harvest. It will be good if you purchase and plant such seedlings on your plot. Even for the cultivation of this crop, gardeners use frigo-seedlings, which are carefully selected from the bushes of berries available in the garden, then dug out in late autumn and stored in bags at a slight negative temperature. Inspect the seedlings, there should be no signs of disease on the leaves and stems. Where is the best place to buy strawberry seedlings? If you buy it in the markets from private manufacturers, then there is a possibility that the purchased plant will be infected with diseases and pests. It is best to take healthy seedlings obtained from sterile plants grown according to a special test-tube method. Such seedlings are sold by large manufacturers. In specialized nurseries, strawberry seedlings are sold from the end of July to the beginning of August. The earlier at the end of summer you plant the bushes of this plant, the more likely it is that flower buds will be laid on them, and the first harvest will be next year. When choosing seedlings, inspect the seedlings well. If you see pale, shriveled leaves on the plants, or there are some points on them, it is better not to buy such material. These signs indicate the poor quality of seedlings, infection with diseases / pests. Purchase strawberry seedlings with the following features: the leaves of the seedlings are leathery / pubescent, have a rich, healthy, shiny, green color; the seedling horn has a thickness of at least 0.7 cm; the length of the roots of open seedlings is more than 7 cm; seedlings do not have damage to the roots, leaves; the core of the bush is strong, resilient, has a rich green color; for seedlings in cups or cassettes, the roots should entangle the entire volume of the container in which they are located; the peat pot should be with roots that have pierced it through and look out; Soil preparation It is best to plant strawberries at the end of the summer season in August. It is desirable to do this in sunny places and on southwestern slopes with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is not desirable to use plots in the lowlands or a closed type for growing this plant. The acidity of the soil for planting strawberry seedlings should not be more than 5.5-6.5 pH. Bushes of berries will give a good harvest if they are planted on chernozem podzolized soils or on dark gray forest soil, which has a medium or light composition. The berry will also bear fruit well on sod-podzolic, sandy loamy soils. It is not advisable to plant strawberries where groundwater is close to the surface. Before planting seedlings in a certain area, it is necessary to first examine it for the presence of pests, and if they are found, destroy the insects with special means. The land for planting strawberries is first cleared of weeds. Then, 2 weeks before planting seedlings, prepare the soil for planting seedlings. 2-3 buckets of organic matter per 1 sq.m. are scattered over the territory of the site. At what distance to root a berry: planting scheme When planting seedlings, do not bury them too deep into the ground, otherwise the central point or heart of the bush will be below ground level, which will lead to the death of the plant. It is also impossible to allow shallow planting of strawberries. This is fraught with drying of the heart and death of the bush. Seedlings will take root well and will grow if planted so that the central point of the seedling protrudes slightly above the soil surface. When planting seedlings in a hole, you need to make a mound in it and put a plant on it. The roots should not be bent, they should smoothly descend along the tubercle. If they are too long, be sure to trim them a little. After planting the seedlings, the plant should be watered abundantly and a solution of HB 101-93 should be applied under each seedling, diluting 93 drops of this substance in 1 liter of water. Then young bushes are mulched with compost (5-6 cm) or straw, hay, sawdust (10 cm) and covered with special material to create a greenhouse effect for better rooting of seedlings. In the future, regular weeding of the bushes is carried out and the mustache is removed. If the weather is dry after planting the seedlings, you need to water the crop so that the ground on the site is wet. During this period, flower buds are laid, on which the next year's berry harvest depends. There are several schemes for planting strawberries: single-line. This is planting seedlings in one row. The distance between the bushes of plants should be 15-20 cm, and between the rows - 60-70 cm; two-line. This is planting with ribbons, consisting of 2 rows of bushes. The distance between the tapes - 60-70 cm, rows - 30 cm, bushes - 15-20 cm; natural agricultural technology. With this scheme, seedlings are planted every 50 cm in one row on beds 50 cm wide. The distance between rows is 50 cm. How to fertilize the soil before planting 2 weeks before planting seedlings, it is desirable to add 40 g to the soil double superphosphate, up to 20 g of potash fertilizers (wood ash or potassium sulfate). It is desirable to add organic matter to the holes for planting seedling bushes. To do this, dig a hole 25x25x25 cm for each seedling and fill it with a mixture consisting of 1 bucket of earth from the site, 1 bucket of compost, 1 bucket of rotted horse manure, 2 glasses of ash. What fertilizer to use or what to feed in autumn Plants planted in August must be fertilized. This is done using different top dressing. It is useful to treat strawberries with a solution consisting of 30 g of urea and 10 liters of water. Foliar top dressing is carried out with boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. Treated bushes will bring more harvest in summer, and the quality of berries will be higher than on plants not fertilized with these substances. To make a mixture for feeding, prepare the following components: molybdenum - 2 g; manganese - 50 g; boric acid - 15 g; water - 15 l. Autumn care for strawberries includes preparing the plant for winter. The bushes of this crop are covered with straw, peat, compost, fallen leaves or corn stalks. These natural substances will not only keep plants from cold in winter, but also fertilize the soil. Special materials are also used as mulch for bushes - spunbond, lutrasil. Covered strawberries will be protected from frost and will give a good harvest next year. Further agrotechnical work with strawberries begins in April.

It will be useful for gardeners and gardeners to find out how many seedlings to buy, how to plant strawberries using know-how about the best varieties of raspberries and currants.

Planting strawberries in August: what you need to know


Strawberries, or as professionals call them, garden strawberries, are best planted annually. Then you will have bushes of different ages. This can be done from the beginning of August. The sooner you manage to plant garden strawberries, the better it will have time to take root before frost.

First-years do not bear fruit abundantly, they give a little, but large berries. Large yields are harvested from 2-3-year-old bushes. Those who are 4 years old will also get a lot of strawberries. But in the fifth year, the root system comes to the surface, the yield decreases. Of course, you can sprinkle it with fertile soil or humus, but it is better to remove the bushes, dig up this area and plant green manure here, which enrich and heal the soil.

Strawberry "whiskers" in this place cannot be placed over the next three years. After all, spores of diseases have accumulated here that cause damage to this particular crop, and some pests have found a permanent place of registration here and can destroy new bushes.

Find a place where nightshades have not grown for 3-4 years, dig the soil in advance so that it has time to settle.

Speaking about what to plant strawberries after, we can say with confidence - after garlic. By this time it has just been dug up, so it is better to occupy this empty area.


The best time for planting strawberries is from early August to the first decade of September. A week before the chosen day, dig up the soil, choosing the weeds. Arriving next weekend, make a landing.

Since strawberries will grow here for 4 years, weed control is difficult. After all, during this time you will not dig up the allotted beds, but only loosen them. But economizing gardeners have figured out how to deal with weeds and make their work easier.


To cover the soil before planting strawberries, you can use the following materials:
  • black film;
  • tarpaulin;
  • linoleum;
  • geotextile;
  • substrate under the laminate;
  • ruberoid.
Cover the strawberry beds with a tarp or black sheeting, doubled up. Under such materials, it will be difficult for weeds to break into the light, and for garden strawberry bushes, you will cut holes and plant strawberry mustaches in them.

Use a good high-density film, a weak one can quickly tear and not last its due date.


If you have geotextiles left from the garden path, and linoleum after repairs in the house, do not throw them away. Under such shelters, weeds will also not have a chance to grow. In addition, the "cheerful" pattern on the linoleum will add additional charm to the garden.

To prevent the tarp, the film from looking dull, lay a substrate on top of these basic materials, which is placed under the laminate. It is cheap and comes in a pretty blue, light green color. Arriving at the site in the spring, when it is not yet decorated with colorful flowers, you can admire the beautiful strawberry beds.

Such shelters not only save the strength of landowners and prevent weeds from growing, but also retain moisture. Therefore, if you cannot often go to the country, even in the heat without watering, garden strawberries will not wither.

Under such shelter, the berries ripen 10–14 days earlier and remain clean. They do not touch the ground, and even in rainy weather they are not affected by gray rot.

The subtleties of rooting, planting garden strawberries


If you have your own strawberry whiskers, take only those that are located closer to the mother liquor. Cut off the "crowns". Experienced gardeners pre-mark healthy bushes that had the largest berries and take planting material from here.

In order for rooting to be painless, they pour soil into plastic cups, place a “mustache” there, without tearing it away from the mother plant, and periodically water it. When it takes root, cut off the junction with the mother liquor and plant it in a garden bed, removing it from a cup with a clod of earth.

To save space, it is better to place the "antennae" in a checkerboard pattern. Cut out holes in the prepared shelters with scissors - according to the 30x40 cm pattern. Pour the holes. Plant the mustache strawberries so that the roots are in the ground, and the central core leaf of each is above it. Compact the soil carefully. If it's hot, you can temporarily cover the bed with non-woven material, and let the "whiskers" take root so that they take root well, overwinter and become the key to future abundant harvests!

It is necessary to have time to plant not only strawberry seedlings, but also other perennial berry and fruit plants. They will be the key to bountiful harvests for many years to come.

The most favorable time is coming for planting bushes and trees. There are a lot of species, fruit varieties. How not to get confused in this variety, to purchase only the necessary plants for the garden? About it, right now.

What trees to plant in the garden in the country?


If you are just planning it, based on what fruits and berries your family loves. Based on this, buy seedlings. Usually for a family of 4 people on the site are placed:
  • 3-4 apple trees;
  • 2-3 pears;
  • 3 plums;
  • 3-4 cherries;
  • 3-5 bushes of black, red currant, gooseberry.
This is a standard set of fruit. But thanks to breeders, even cherries and apricots are now grown in the Moscow region. Therefore, if you have a site that is not blown by strong winds, you can also purchase seedlings of these plants.

A rare site does without raspberries, do not forget to purchase this plant. 5-10 seedlings are enough. They will give a lot of shoots, and from next year you will have your own planting material. The same goes for blackberries.

Apple trees and pears


Let's decide on the timing of maturation. So, there are apple trees of summer, autumn and winter varieties. The first ones ripen earlier than the others and make it possible to feast on apples from the end of July. But they don't last long. This function is perfectly performed by the apple trees of the other two groups, and the winter ones are able to lie until the beginning or end of spring!

Therefore, if you want to eat plenty of sweet apples not only in August, but also in autumn and winter, then purchase 1-2 varieties of different ripening periods. This also applies to pears.


But for a good yield, you need to buy at least 2 trees of the same ripening period. They bloom at the same time, which is necessary for normal pollination, as well as for cherries, sweet cherries, apricots. It is necessary to purchase at least 2 seedlings of each species, since most varieties of these trees are self-fertile.

The best varieties of raspberries, currants for the garden


We have decided on the large plants of the garden, now we are moving on to shrubs. Sweet fragrant raspberry to the taste of many. But not all novice gardeners know that there are not only red, but also yellow varieties. There are also those that bear fruit until serious autumn frosts, they are called remontant. To have scarlet berries in the garden in September and even in October, plant "Indian Summer" or "Hercules". The latter is more suitable for the Moscow region, and the first for more southern regions.

If you want to collect record-breaking red berries, get the Cardinal variety. And from the yellow-fruited ones, we can recommend the “Yellow Giant”. This variety has sweeter berries than 'Cardinal' and more growth.


So, raspberry varieties for the Moscow region (one of the best) are:
  • Hercules;
  • Indian summer;
  • Yellow giant;
  • Cardinal.

Raspberries tend to grow strongly. You can limit its range by planting garlic at a border where new growth will not grow.


The red currant is also a permanent resident in many gardens. "Rondom" will please with its long tassels, from which it is convenient to collect scarlet beads. The Versailles Red variety has very large berries (up to 1.5 g). By planting "Natalie", you can be sure that the bush will winter well and give a bountiful harvest in mid-July.

In blackcurrant, varieties can be distinguished:

  • early ripe - "Selechinskaya 2", "Exotica";
  • medium ripening period - "Perun", "Raisin";
  • later - "Venus", "Mermaid".
When planting plants in the garden, do not forget that tall trees should be placed to the north, then they will not obscure the undersized and bushes. If you want heat-loving cherries and apricots to be comfortable, plant them on the south side of buildings or a high fence. Then you will have not only fruits and berries that are familiar to middle latitudes, but also fruits and berries that are still exotic for such places.


If you have low-lying places on your site, you can plant cranberries here, as other trees and shrubs will get wet here. She loves moisture and frost-resistant.

What is the most important work in the garden, the garden in August?


In addition to planting perennial crops, this is this year's harvest. In the garden in early August, you need to dig up winter garlic. It is quite easy to determine the exact time. During the formation of arrows on garlic, they must be removed. But leave it on one or two plants. When the film at the end of the arrow bursts, the seeds will appear, then you need to dig out the garlic.

Onions are harvested a few days later (but until August 10). When this needs to be done, the pen will tell, it will lie down and turn yellow by about a third. The scales on the heads will dry out. Onions are dug up only with a shovel, scoop or pitchfork. You can’t pull it out of the ground with your hands by the greens - you can damage the bulb. Further, the onion is dried in the sun on a litter for about a week, bringing it under cover for the night. Then keep in a ventilated dry room until the pen is completely dry.

In August, especially if the weather is wet and the nights are cold, one of the most dangerous diseases for them, leading to darkening of the fruit, can destroy the tomato crop. At this time, it is no longer possible to use chemicals against phytophthora on tomatoes, therefore, agents that are harmless to people are used. They are applied to the bushes by spraying. Here are some:

  • Iodine solution. Take 50 mm of iodine at a concentration of 5–%, dilute in 10 liters of water. Spray the tomatoes, and a second time after 3 days.
  • Dilute 4–6 drops of Zircon in 1 liter of water.
  • Dissolve a stick of fresh yeast in 10 liters of water and process.
  • Every 10 days, treat with Fitosporin M - an excellent remedy against late blight. First, the contents of the package are dissolved in 400 g of water (this suspension can be stored in a sealed container all summer), then 2 tsp are taken. such gruel is placed in 10 liters of water.
The drug "Fitosporin M" is also used for the prevention and control of other plant diseases. Its advantage is that it does not have a waiting period. That is, processed fruits can be eaten almost immediately, of course, after washing them well.

If you dissolve 1 tbsp. l. the resulting suspension, the solution can be watered with 50 kg of compost. To disinfect the soil when digging, spill 2 square meters. m. area with a product prepared from 1 tbsp. l. suspension "Fitosporin M", diluted in 10 liters of water.

Speaking about what kind of work in the garden, the garden is the most important, it should be noted that there are several of them. Here's what else to do during this period:

  1. Pinch the growing points of the pumpkin lashes. There should be no more than one or two fruits on one stem.
  2. Mow potato tops a week before harvest. Burn it or otherwise dispose of it, but do not compost it.
  3. Pinch off the tops of the tomatoes, leaving 2-3 leaves above the top fruit cluster. Remove stepchildren, lower leaves to a formed bunch of tomatoes. This will speed up the ripening of fruits, will contribute to better ventilation of the bushes.
  4. Remove strawberry and strawberry leaves damaged by pests, diseases, dispose of them.
  5. Sow lettuce, spinach, radish, arugula, dill for autumn consumption in the vacated greenhouse, greenhouse.
  6. At the end of the month, prepare beds for winter garlic, onions, so that the soil has time to settle before planting these crops.
Harvest from summer apple trees, put props under the branches of autumn and winter varieties. Feed the trees and bushes. If the weather is rainy, close up around the near-stem circle of an adult tree, 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and potassium fertilizer, and under a young tree and bushes of currants, gooseberries - 1 tbsp. l.

In rainy weather, do not apply potassium chloride, especially under gooseberries, otherwise they will shed their leaves prematurely.

What flowers to plant in the country at the end of summer?


But not only work on planting new plants in the garden and vegetable garden needs to be carried out in August. This month, there will be enough pleasant worries for flower growers.

Here is an example work plan:

  1. Put supports to tall dahlias, gladioli, tie up geleniums, mallows, rudbeckias.
  2. Trim wild roses. If you see that sprouts are breaking through from the bottom of the bush below the grafting site, remove them with secateurs.
  3. Do not forget to collect annual seeds. If they are unripe in cornflowers, marigolds, rudbeckia, cut off the heads, lay them out in a dry, ventilated place. The seeds will ripen there.
  4. In the second half of August, we divide the rhizomes of peonies - this is the best period for such work.
  5. After August 20, flower bulbs can be planted: tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, hyacinths, muskries, etc.
  6. This month, watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil under single and perennial flowers are necessary.
Recall that in August it is no longer possible to use nitrogen, as it worsens the winter hardiness of crops. Top dressing should consist of phosphorus, potassium, trace elements.

This is what kind of work in the garden, garden, flower garden awaits summer residents in August. All this can be done in a whole month if you make a plan and stick to it. Such works in the fresh air are useful and will certainly endow gardeners with environmentally friendly berries, vegetables, and fruits.

If you want to see how to plant strawberries in warm beds, please - this story is for you!

And this video tells what measures to take against phytophthora on tomatoes:

Strawberries can be propagated in several ways. But for most gardeners, the simplest, most affordable and effective option is mustache propagation.

Usually the procedure is carried out in August, since by this time the strawberry bushes have time to acquire high-quality and developed mustaches. In the article, we will consider in detail how strawberries are planted with a mustache in August, we will learn all the intricacies of the procedure, we will get acquainted with caring for plants after rooting in a new place.

We advise you to choose the end of the month for the August planting of strawberries with a mustache. This period is suitable for all regions, since it is by the end of summer that strawberries acquire a developed, healthy and breeding mustache. Winter, with its frosts, is still far away: the seedlings will have time to take root.

It is important that the planting material has time to grow while still being associated with the mother plant. Thus, its further rooting will pass without problems and quickly.

How to choose a mustache for breeding, preparation

When planting strawberries with a mustache, it is very important to choose high-quality and healthy planting material. Future harvests, the level of soreness of the culture, and sustainability depend on this.

Bushes choose large and branched, with a large number of powerful, long mustaches. The bush must be healthy, not have any damage, suspicious spots. The leaves of the plant should be rich green, slightly shiny.

Keep in mind that one bush has both a male and a female part. There are very few berries on the male part, but the mustache grows large and powerful. On the female, on the contrary, there are a lot of berries, but the mustache turns out to be small and ripen only at the end of summer.

We note, however, that although male mustaches ripen earlier, they turn out to be stronger, they are of little use for reproduction - you can’t wait for good harvests.

So, the socket at the planting material should be female. You can understand that you separated the mustache from the mother plant with a female rosette by the fact that it was this part of the plant that fruited more actively.

Do not rush to separate and seat a powerful male mustache - although they look beautiful, good harvests will not be seen in the future. "Female" mustaches ripen later, but it's worth waiting for them to get really high-quality planting material.

To get breeding, high-quality and healthy uterine whiskers, you first need to take some steps. Next, we will consider the preparation and selection procedure in more detail.

In the first year after planting, it is necessary to observe the strawberries and immediately remove the mustache that begins to appear in it. After harvesting the first harvest, you will already have an idea which of the bushes are the most fruitful.

In early autumn, after the final completion of the collection of berries, the marked mother bushes must be dug up and transplanted to a separate bed. Next spring, cut off the flower buds from them, and leave the growing tendrils.

As the mustache grows, cut off the weak and small ones, let the large ones grow further. Until June, the mustache should develop freely. Then they will begin to form rosettes.

Dig the rosettes that have appeared into the ground nearby and water them abundantly with water. If, of your own free will, the socket refuses to sit in the ground, secure it with paper clips or other suitable fixative.

By the way, some gardeners do not root sockets in the garden, but put small containers next to them with more fertile, clean and loose soil.

Do not forget to loosen the soil in the garden, as well as spud the germinating antennae. Shorten the tips of the whiskers a little to make the future planting material more branched, bushy.

It is recommended to feed the rooting mustache a little with nitrogen so that the outlet grows faster and gains volume. The fact that the tendril's own roots have developed sufficiently is evidenced by 5-6 leaves that appeared on the rosette.

The mustache is separated from the mother bush in a couple of weeks after transplantation. This time is given to him to form more powerful and branched roots.

A young plant should become completely independent and switch to self-sufficiency. It is good if the transplant is carried out in slightly damp, rainy weather - there will be less damage to the roots.

How to choose a place to land?

For planting this delicious berry, it is right to choose a sunny place. Of course, the culture will be able to bear fruit in the shade, but it will not lose its taste and commercial qualities in this case, only if there is an appropriate resistant variety.

In the lowlands, where groundwater and cold air accumulate, strawberries will not be able to grow well. However, open hills are also not suitable for her, since in this case the plant will often receive sunburn.

It is optimal to plant in a flat place, well lit and protected from the wind. The southwestern part of the garden plot with a slight slope of 2-3 degrees is ideal. Such a slope is almost invisible, however, it will be able to protect the strawberries from the accumulation of water.

When planting strawberries, it is also important to take into account which plants were previously cultivated in this area.

It is undesirable to choose the bed on which they grew:

  • tomatoes;
  • ranunculus;
  • sunflower;
  • potato.

It is especially dangerous to plant strawberries in a garden where solanaceous grew before: dangerous viruses can be transmitted from tomatoes, potatoes and eggplants.

Good harvests can be expected if the predecessors were as follows:

  • beans;
  • parsley;
  • garlic;
  • oats;
  • peas;
  • mustard;
  • dill;
  • salad;
  • radish.

Soil preparation

The soil in the garden for strawberries should have low acidity: no more than 5.5-6.5 pH. For a good harvest, podzolic, chernozem soils, as well as forest dark gray soil with a light or medium structure are optimal.

Also, sandy loam, soddy land, podzolic is suitable. It is important that the substrate has high permeability, is loose, and fairly light. Dense soil with a high clay content is not suitable for strawberries. Also, do not plant this crop in peat soil, light gray soil.

Be sure to pre-clean the bed of weeds, dig and loosen. If possible, remove the remains of previous crops from the ground. 3-4 days before planting the mustache, spill the soil with water with Fitosporin diluted in it. This measure will help protect planting material from damage by fungus and pests.

After water procedures, sprinkle the bed with wood ash. This will help to make the crop more abundant, and the soil - nutritious. In order for the mustache to take root faster in the ground, add superphosphate to the bed (80-100 g per 1 m2).

How to plant in August?

Consider step by step the whole process of rooting a strawberry mustache in August:

  1. No more than 3-4 whiskers are taken from one mother plant. If you take more, the strawberry bush will be severely depleted and will need time to recover.
  2. Sprinkle each mustache chosen for further propagation with a little soil - right there, on this bed. Water the future young seedlings abundantly.
  3. After about two weeks, sometimes even earlier, the mustache acquires its own root system, after which they can be planted easily and without negative consequences.
  4. The bed by this time already looks quite thickened, since both the maternal specimens and the “children” grow on it at the same time. To transplant a mustache to your garden, you need to choose a cloudy but dry day.
  5. The uterine mustache is cut off with a pruner in one step. Interestingly, some young plants are already beginning to grow their mustaches themselves: these processes require mandatory removal.
  6. It is recommended to dig a mustache rooted in the ground with two shoulder blades. Stick the shoulder blades from the bush on both sides and remove it from the ground with loosening movements.
  7. Transplant the dug bush to a new place in a previously prepared hole. In the hole, form a small mound at the bottom, on which the seedling is placed. The roots should not be bent and placed cramped: they should smoothly and evenly, freely descend the slopes of the mound. Roots that are too long are cut off before planting.
  8. Please note that the point of growth of the antennae is 1-2 cm above the ground surface. If you plant a bush deeper than it should be, the growing point under the ground can ban and rot, if placed too high, it will either dry out or freeze in winter.
  9. Water each bush immediately after transplanting - quite plentifully. Wet the foliage too.
  10. After watering, it is recommended to mulch the plantings. It is ideal to use straw as mulch. In its absence, cut grass, shavings, sawdust or moss are suitable.
  11. After mulching, cover the plantings with a covering material to create greenhouse conditions for easier rooting of plants.
  12. By the beginning of winter, the planted mustaches fully adapt to the new place, take root. And next season, the first harvest will ripen in the summer.

Landing patterns

There are several ways to plant strawberries in the garden in August. But the most popular are three schemes:

  1. Single line. Bushes are planted in one row while maintaining a distance between seedlings of 15-20 cm. A distance of 60-70 cm is left between rows.
  2. Two-line. Landing is carried out in two rows - in even parallel ribbons. Between these tapes leave a distance of 60-70 cm, rows - 30 cm, seedlings - 15-20 cm.
  3. Natural agricultural technology. In this case, the seedlings are rooted half a meter apart from each other in one row. The width of the beds is also half a meter. The same distance will be between the individual rows.

Care after landing

Let's get acquainted with the nuances of caring for strawberries after planting them with a mustache in August.

Watering

It is imperative to moisten the soil in the garden with young strawberries. However, since the time after planting is already approaching autumn, rain is likely. If the weather is damp, the culture does not need additional moisture. But if there is heat and drought, be sure to water.

If there is no normal soil moisture, flower buds will not be able to form in young plants: that is, a good harvest next year is not worth waiting for.

But do not overdo it with watering: excess water is harmful to strawberry roots, it can even lead to rotting. Water should not fall on the outlet either, since in cool weather conditions the vegetative part can also rot.

Water strawberries with warm and settled water. The frequency of watering should be as follows: in warm weather once a week in the early morning. In rainy weather, watering is not necessary at all. Next year, pay special attention to watering during flowering bushes.

Attention: often and little by little strawberries are not watered - this regimen leads to the appearance of a fungus.

Mulching

This procedure when growing strawberries brings significant benefits. Mulch the soil after watering: both the root zone, and between rows, bushes. Mulching will help provide the roots with water for a longer time, protect the bed from weeds.

The best mulch for strawberries is finely chopped straw. If there is no straw, chopped mowed green grass, green manure will do.

Weeding

Remove weeds in the garden regularly. Young strawberries are still quite weak, and weeds can take away food and water from them. In addition, weeds are carriers of pests and various dangerous diseases. We recommend weeding immediately after watering, as weeds are easily picked up from moist soil.

Hilling

pruning

If tendrils begin to form on young strawberries, remove them immediately. Mustaches take a lot of strength from the plant, and in this case strawberries need strength for their own development and the formation of powerful roots.

In general, in order for young plants to be able to form a complete and strong root system, it is recommended to cut off all the whiskers that appear in them for the first two years.

From time to time, thin out the beds: when the strawberry bushes grow strongly. The procedure is recommended to be carried out every 3-4 years, not more often. Remove weak, stunted bushes that give a good volume of berries during thinning.

top dressing

Strawberries planted in August need additional nutrition. The treatment of the beds with urea is useful: 30 g of the substance is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Nitrogen fertilizers are very important for strawberries, as they give the characteristic red color to the berries.

Potassium is also very important: without it, the taste of the fruit will become unremarkable. By the way, the browning of the tips of the foliage may indicate a lack of potassium.

Foliar top dressing using manganese, boron and molybdenum is also useful. Such nutrition will increase the quality and volume of the future harvest of berries.

The working solution is prepared in the following proportion:

  • manganese - 50 gr;
  • molybdenum - 2 gr;
  • boron - 15 gr;
  • water - 15 l.

In the full growing season, top dressing is carried out three times. And the last time - in the fall, before covering the strawberries. The first feeding is carried out during the budding period - organic liquid solutions (litter, manure) are used.

The second time feeding is done after the first harvest. It is recommended to use wood ash in this case: one and a half to two glasses of the substance is scattered over 1 m2 of beds. From above, dry ash is then poured with water.

Attention: alternate ash and mineral top dressings: for example, next year you can carry out a second top dressing using Kemira or another ready-made composition

The last feeding is done until mid-September. It is recommended to use this time chicken manure (highly diluted), mullein. In its pure form, fertilizers are never used.

Be sure to water the bed after each fertilization. The measure will help nutrients reach the roots faster, and also protect these very roots from burns with concentrated fertilizers.

Try to get top dressing only on the soil, and not on the plants themselves. If top dressing gets on the foliage, immediately wash it off with water to avoid burns.

Shelter

Young, just-rooted strawberry bushes must be protected from frost before the coming winter.

Shelter is made in autumn by a surface method using peat, dry straw, fallen leaves, compost, corn stalks.

This organic matter will not only help protect the bushes from the cold, but, when decomposed, will become an excellent additional food.

If frosts are expected to be very severe, and winters in the region are not snowy, it is advisable to lay non-woven material on top of the organic shelter: spunbond, lutrasil, agrofibre.

We learned how to plant strawberries in August with a mustache. The procedure is not too complicated and gives excellent results. In addition, mustache reproduction makes it possible not to depend on the quality of the purchased planting material.

Having carefully studied the information in the article and correctly applied it, you will be able to plant strawberry mustaches correctly, receiving high yields in the future.

If the strawberry plantation is not put in order in August, it will turn into a solid green carpet by the end of autumn. And from thickened plantings you will collect only a few handfuls of small berries. All the power of plants will go into greenery.

New home for strawberries

First of all, you need to make a decision - to plant strawberries in the same area or transplant. After all, culture will give birth well in one place for no more than 4-5 years. Then it starts to grow. Therefore, if your strawberry has not changed its place of residence for a long time, prepare a new site for it. Preferably sunny, but not completely open. It is good if some low bushes grow nearby, which will cover the strawberries from the scorching sun for a couple of hours a day.

Often gardeners have a plant between rows of young seedlings or grapes. At the same time, such plantations will cover this berry crop from drafts, which she really does not like.

It is impossible that water stagnates in the territory intended for strawberries, or groundwater is closer to the surface than 1.5 m.

It is equally important to choose a site on which suitable predecessors grew. Carrots, legumes, parsley, dill, onions and garlic, beets are best suited for strawberries.

It is undesirable to transplant the culture to the place where cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cabbage or peppers grew. Diseases of these plants can be transmitted to strawberries.

fertile land

The culture loves loose, well-moistened soil with a slightly acidic reaction. When preparing the land in advance, in the spring, you can fertilize it with compost, humus or chicken manure. Immediately before planting, concentrated fertilizers should not be given so as not to burn the roots.

Before digging, you can add superphosphates with potassium chloride (30 g and 10 g per m² of land, respectively) or wood ash - 2 cups per 1 m². It is even easier to use complex fertilizers for strawberries in accordance with the instructions. You can buy them at any specialized store.

If you have black soil or loam, it is advisable to sprinkle the earth with a small amount of sand before digging, preferably river sand.

We dig to a depth of approximately 25-30cm.

The best varieties

Every 3-5 years, it is advisable to renew strawberries from your own mustache. Otherwise, it will degenerate. But even if the berries are getting smaller, think about replacing the variety.

How to choose the right strawberry varieties tells Vasily Ivanovich Lavrenyuk, agronomist of the private enterprise "Valentina" in the Vinnitsa region:

- Varieties are better to take different in terms of ripening. It is advisable to plant early, mid-season and late-ripening. Then almost all summer there will be strawberries on your table. Learn about each variety's flavor, yield, and disease resistance. For example, among the early varieties, we can recommend early Chisinau, Clery, Mashenka, Alba, ultra-early Olvia, the Honey variety - very picky about conditions. A very early and productive variety of Elsanta, but this strawberry is sensitive to both drought and waterlogging. Among the mid-ripening ones, Vityaz, Festivalnaya, Victoria can be distinguished. Late varieties - Bohemia, Gigantella Maxim, Great Britain, Zenga, Malvina. There are good remontant varieties that give several harvests - Queen Elizabeth 2nd, Albion, Monterey. Usually such strawberries bear fruit more actively closer to autumn.

We form beds

The density of planting strawberries depends on whether it is the first year in this place or not. If the plant is planted in a new territory, there should be at least 60 cm between the rows, optimally 80 cm, but between the bushes you can allow a slightly greater density than usual - about 15 cm. When planting berries in the old place, the distance between the tubers should be not less than 30cm, better - 40cm.

We choose young strawberry bushes that are well developed, with at least three leaves.

Optimally, when the lobe of the roots reaches 5 cm in length. Strawberries should be planted in the evening when there is no sun.

We make holes with a diameter of about 15 cm. Pour the hole with not cold water, at the rate of 500-700 ml for each, put the strawberry bush carefully so that the roots do not bend. When the water is absorbed, we drop the strawberries so that the root collar is at ground level. If it is lower, water will begin to stagnate and the plant may rot, higher, the roots will begin to dry.

After planting, it is advisable to mulch the ground around the plants with straw or freshly cut grass. Sawdust should not be used. They can compact over time, and air will stop flowing to the roots.

If it is hot, it is necessary to water the bushes abundantly every other day - about 1 liter of water under each, until the plants take root. If the weather is moderate, but there is no rain, 400-500 ml of water every other day is enough.

strawberry meadow

Transplanting strawberries is not much different. Just like the strawberry, it needs a refresh. It is only desirable to plant a culture every 2-3 years. A slight difference in planting strawberries is that it is advisable to raise the beds with it a little above ground level. This helps to better keep the berries from dirt in the summer, and the plant itself from freezing in the winter.

The distance between the rows is 60-80 cm, and between the bushes 25 cm is enough.

Strawberries are an unpretentious plant, but, like strawberries, they need regular watering.

After transplantation, it needs to be watered every other day - under each bush 400-500 ml of water warmed up in the sun until it takes root. During a drought, we water 2-3 times a week at the rate of 500-700 ml of water per bush.

Aisles are recommended to be mulched. This will help retain moisture and keep weeds out. You can use agrofibre. You need to spread it on a prepared piece of land before planting strawberries or strawberries. We apply the edges and aisles with stones or slabs. We make cuts where the bushes will land. This method allows you to retain moisture and save the strawberry plantation from weeds, fungal diseases and freezing in winter.

Oksana SHAPOVAL
photo depositphotos

Planting rules, methods and secrets of how to plant strawberries

    1 What you need to get a rich harvest 2 Growing strawberries from seeds 3 Preparing the site
    4 How to plant strawberries 5 Ways to plant strawberries

What you need to get a rich harvest

First, let's figure out how strawberries differ from strawberries. In strawberries, the bushes are taller, the leaves are wrinkled, the flower stalks rise above the light leaves. The berries are smaller than those of strawberries. Garden strawberries are often called strawberries by gardeners. The technology of planting and growing is absolutely the same, so we will not pay attention to the difference between crops in our article. Whatever you call this sweet, juicy berry, its taste will not change from this.

Success Rules:

    Quality planting material. Properly organized landing area. Smart landing. Varieties of strawberries (small-fruited, large-fruited, remontant - continuously fruiting all spring, summer and autumn); The best predecessors: garlic, onions, dill, petunias, marigolds. The berry is returned to the old place after 5 years. If there is little food, the first collection is the largest, then the smallest.

Planting material can be obtained in several ways:

    buy; grow yourself from seeds; take mustaches from other bushes; dividing the bush (if the variety does not give a mustache).

Here you need to decide on the timing of landing. The berry is planted in autumn, spring and summer. When is the best time to plant strawberries? We believe that it is better to plant it in May, mid-July - early August. During these periods, it is not very hot, the seedlings take root well and give a good harvest the next year. All you have to do is water and feed the plants.

If we buy seedlings, then we give preference to plants with a closed root system, that is, in cups. It should be an annual seedling with roots no less than 5 cm long and 2-3 well-developed leaves. If there are flower stalks on the bush, then it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plant. The task is to get a large strong bush for the first year, and only then a harvest.

Growing strawberries from seed

Good varieties: Baron Solemacher, Yellow Miracle, Fresco, Sashenka, Moscow delicacy. Strawberry seeds germinate only in the light. With artificial illumination, you can start sowing seeds in January. They are usually sown in March, when the length of the day increases. Spread on the surface of the soil, without sprinkling anything. It is convenient to sow in transparent food containers with a lid. It turns out a mini-greenhouse. Seeds can germinate for a month, sometimes one and a half. To stimulate germination, it is recommended to spray the seeds with a solution of HB-101 (1 drop per liter of water). The soil is watered with the same solution.

Illumination of seeds can and should be done using a table lamp. An ordinary incandescent light bulb is changed to an energy-saving cold glow.

A table lamp is placed at a height of 15 cm above a bowl or container with seeds and illuminated for 12, and preferably 14-16 hours a day.

We must warn you that on a cold windowsill, the seeds are in no hurry to germinate and die in the ground. To do this, they organize a “warm” window sill - pieces of polystyrene are placed under the containers.

Large-fruited varieties can be sown in peat tablets. There are usually 5-10 seeds in a package, so the tablets will not take up much space. Tablets are soaked in water or a solution of the HB-101 preparation, diluting a drop per liter of water. They are also placed in a bowl under the film, creating greenhouse conditions.

When cotyledon leaves appear, you cannot immediately open a mini-greenhouse - the sprouts will fall and die. There was a certain humidity in the container under the lid, and the apartment air is dry - the leaves cannot cope with the evaporation of moisture and dry. The film (lid) is removed only when real leaves appear. Open gradually over several days so that the sprouts get used to the low humidity of the surrounding air. Droplets of condensate must be removed daily from the lid.

Site preparation

Before planting strawberries, prepare a place. A plot for strawberries is taken away in a sunny, ventilated place. There are traditional and natural agricultural techniques for growing crops. Traditional planting (normal) involves growing strawberries and getting the maximum yield in one area for 3-4 years. The bush bears fruit until it exhausts its strength completely. Then we usually say “the berry has degenerated” and almost completely renew the strawberries, transplanting them to another place. Natural agricultural technology allows you to get a full-fledged harvest up to 7-8 years in one place due to constant top dressing and special care.

By tradition, they are planted in ribbons of two rows with a distance between rows of 30 cm, between ribbons of 60 cm, keeping a distance between berry bushes of 15-25 cm. Or on beds 100 cm wide, bushes are planted in a checkerboard pattern after 50 cm, leaving a passage of 50 cm between rows .

Natural agricultural technology implies a slightly different planting scheme. The beds are made 50 cm wide. The bushes are planted in one row after 50 cm. The passage between the rows is 50 cm. Yes, no matter which method you choose, place the beds from north to south. At first it seems that a lot of space is left for seedlings. But remember, the berry will grow in one area for 5-8 years, the bush will grow and take up all the free space.

The site is cleared of weeds. Overripe organic matter is added at the rate of 3 buckets / m2. You can add organics directly to the wells. Drip pits measuring 25x25 cm and the same hollow. The wells are filled with a mixture of:

    a bucket of compost; a bucket of horse manure (rotted); a bucket of soil from the garden; 2 cups of ash.

Instead of manure, you can take a bucket of compost mixed with 2 liters of biohumus.

How to plant strawberries

If seedlings:

    in a plastic pot - shed one hour before planting; in a peat tablet - immersed in water for 30 seconds; open root system - stand for 10 hours in a solution of HB-101 (3 drops per liter of water).

The length of the roots is left up to 10 cm, the excess is cut off. If you have seedlings with a closed root system, then you can plant it throughout the summer. Seedlings with an open root system are planted in spring and August.

Although strawberries are the most common berry on plantations, many gardeners make mistakes when planting them. At the bottom of the planting hole we make a mound and put the plant on it. We make sure that the roots do not bend. As a rule, this happens when they are too long. In this case, we boldly cut off the excess with secateurs, shortening the roots to a length of 10 cm. We also make sure that the roots do not bend up, which is also wrong. Ideally, they should go straight down the mound.

Another important point. Many people bury the plant too deep. With a deep planting, the central kidney (heart) is below the soil level. In no case should this be allowed, as the heart will begin to rot and rot. The plant will most likely die. In the case of a shallow planting, seedlings are also doomed to an early death, as the heart dries up. The central kidney should barely protrude above the soil level. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, plus 0.5 liters of HB-101 solution (93 drops per liter of water) are poured under each bush).

Next, the strawberries are mulched with compost and covered with the thinnest covering material No. 17 (in 2 layers) or No. 30 for two weeks. It is simply thrown over plants without arcs. Why hide? The root system has not started yet. The leaves evaporate moisture, and the roots cannot yet deliver water from the soil to them. Plants may dry out. Under the covering material, a greenhouse effect is created, the seedlings take root better.

The question is often asked what materials can be taken as mulch. You can take grass, hay, straw, pine branches, rotted sawdust, rotted compost. The thickness of the compost layer should be 5-6 cm. The thickness of the layer of hay, straw, dry grass - 10 cm. Mulch is added every month throughout the season.

Ways to plant strawberries

We decided on the varieties, everything was clear with the planting schemes, we chose the dates. Now let's talk about the different ways to grow garden strawberries.

Planting with mulching film

We lay agrofibre. We lay the corners of the mulch film in the holes, sprinkle with earth around the perimeter. After we have laid the agrofiber, we proceed to planting strawberries. We make a small cross-shaped incision to just barely push the roots there. Then we tear a small hole under the film with our hands and lay the roots of the seedling. Fill with compost and water.

If you make a large incision, then weeds will climb from there, which will draw all the moisture out of the soil. Large seedlings under the mulching film should not be planted. Attention, if you decide to plant a berry in this way, then you need to provide the plant with food for 4 years in advance. To do this, we add 2-3 buckets of rotted compost for each square meter.

Planting strawberries on a straw mattress

We will tell you an interesting way of planting garden strawberries on pea straw. After harvesting the peas, the tops are dug into the soil, forming a straw mattress. The soil is shed with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen provides good resistance to pea tops. After about 3 weeks, strawberries are planted in this place. The high quality of the mustache is important. A large mustache gives large berries the next year. The larger the planting material, the taller the plants will be, the thicker the flower stalks.

Strawberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 40 cm from each other. The aisles are not dug up, but freed from weeds. You can plant directly from the edge of the garden, so that in the future the plant can use the soil between the rows. 3-4 rows of berries are placed on the garden bed. The width of the beds is calculated so that on each side you can easily reach the middle to care for the plantings.

After planting, they shed the earth well so that dirt forms. It is not for nothing that there is a proverb about strawberries: “If you plant them in the mud, you will be a prince.”

Often the antennae have underdeveloped roots. The next day after planting, the seedlings can dry out in the sun. To make the rooting process a little easier for them, the ground around them is sprinkled with hay for the next 3-4 days for shading. Hay can then be removed, or you can add more, you get a nice thick layer of mulch.

Pyramid garden

The beds, located up and taking up little space, are relevant for small summer cottages. To organize a pyramid-bed, you need 4 wooden bottomless boxes and a piece of pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and a length of 2-2.5 meters. The boxes can be made by yourself.

The pipe is fixed and holes are drilled along the entire length of the pipe with an electric drill. They are needed for watering the pyramid beds. No need to make large holes, they can become clogged with earth. Water will find any hole anyway.

They choose a place for the pyramid and drive the pipe to a depth of 80-90 cm so that it holds tight. By the way, holes are not made in that part of the pipe that will be underground.

Then they take the largest box and put it on top of the pipe so that it runs exactly in the center, we strengthen it in the ground. The box can be dug in or spread with pegs: drive stakes into each corner from the inside of the box.

Next, good fertile soil is poured into the box, filling it to the brim and moderately compacting. So all the remaining boxes are strung on the pipe. For each next put a box of a smaller size. Four or five tiers will be enough to keep the pyramid stable and avoid problems with watering, caring for the berries, and harvesting.

In addition, you need to make sure that there is free space for strawberry seedlings. A piece of pipe should stick out above the last tier. It is easy to water plants from above through a pipe, having stuck a hose. Opposite each tier there are necessarily holes through which the soil will be moistened.

Your berry will grow no worse than in an ordinary garden bed. In summer, the bushes will bloom and the pyramid will turn into a white and pink flower bed, pleasing to the eye.

Subject to all the rules, the plants planted to you will take root well, take root, and you will be guaranteed an excellent harvest of strawberries. By the way, do not forget that strawberries are recognized as one of the most delicious and healthy berries in the world!

    Rate the article: 54321(1 vote, average: 5 out of 5) Share with your friends! Related posts: How to grow strawberries - the secrets to getting an excellent harvest at minimal cost Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse and in the open field or All the secrets of a rich harvest! Root and foliar feeding of strawberries for large berries and a rich harvest

    How to plant strawberries correctly - 4 ways of planting - summer advice. RU


    This is the easiest and cheapest way to land. Its essence is that the whiskers of the strawberry bushes do not break off, thereby allowing the berry to grow independently over the entire allotted area.

    With such a compacted method of placing bushes, a special microclimate arises in the surface layer, and a layer of vegetable mulch is also formed by itself. This inhibits weed growth and keeps the soil moist.

    Advantages of the method: convenient for those who are not often in the country, the berries are less likely to need watering, loosening and fertilizing due to natural mulching.

    The disadvantages of the method: over time, the berries may shrink.

    You can read more about the effective cultivation of strawberries using the carpet planting method here.

    Read on to learn how to grow strawberry seedlings from seeds.
    And we also have an article on the topic of the correct technology for planting strawberries.
    Here we find out whether it is worth processing strawberries in the spring, and here - how to carry out autumn pruning and prepare strawberry beds for winter.

    We wish you success and great harvests!

    Planting strawberries in August

    Planting strawberries in August

      The leaves of the seedlings should have a bright green color. The thickness of the horn of the seedling itself should be about 0.7 cm. The root of the strawberry bush is 7-8 cm. The seedlings should be free of defects in the root system and leaves. If seedlings are bought in plastic containers, the roots of the strawberry seedling should envelop the entire container. If the seedlings are sold in pots with peat, the roots should be visible outside.
    We prepare the soil

    Experienced gardeners recommend planting strawberry bushes in August. It is better to do this in sunny areas with an acidity of 6.5%, in chernozem soil. The berry can also feel good in sandy areas. It is undesirable to plant a plant near water.

    Having picked up a place on your site, you should carefully examine it for the presence of pests. If any are present, they are destroyed with the help of special means. Before planting seedlings, the soil must be well cleaned of weeds, and then fertilized. To do this, a special organic mixture is placed in each dug hole, consisting of 1 bucket of soil, compost, rotted horse manure and 2 glasses of ash. And after 14 days, strawberry bushes can be safely planted.

    Distance at which seedlings are rooted

    At what distance and depth is it better to plant bushes?

    You can not plant the plant too deep, as the center of the bush will be below the ground level, which will provoke its death. Seedlings will be able to take root well and quickly if they are planted so that the center of the plant protrudes quite a bit above the soil surface.

    Rules to follow
      seedlings should be planted in a dug hole, in which a small mound is first made; the roots, if they are long, cannot be bent, it is enough just to carefully cut them; after planting, the plant should be watered abundantly; young seedlings are necessarily mulched with straw, hay, sawdust or compost. After that, they are covered with blood material to create a good greenhouse effect.

    In the future, it is necessary to regularly weed the strawberries and remove their whiskers. At high humidity, the plant is watered so that the soil is well wet. In August, flowers are laid, on which, accordingly, the amount of the crop for the next season depends.

    The main schemes for planting bushes

    There are two schemes for planting strawberry bushes. This is:

    Single-line planting, that is, landing in one row. It is necessary to observe the intervals between plants - at least 20 cm, the distance between rows - about 70 cm. Two-line planting. Planting strawberries with ribbons, in two rows. In this case, the distance between plants should be about 60 cm, row spacing - no more than 30 cm.

    Technique for planting strawberry bushes in open soil with a mustache

    As soon as the rosettes of the berries ripen, they must be planted in a permanent place. Strawberries should be planted with a mustache on auspicious days in August. On cloudy days or in the evening. This must be done so that the plant can quickly adapt to a new area.

    The area where you are going to plant bushes should be divided into rows, and the distance should be about 1 m. Plants should be planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other.

    The depth of the pits should be 10 - 15 cm, and the core of the outlet should be at ground level.

    If the core of the outlet is deepened, the bush will quickly die.

    We plant seedlings under a black film

    Very often, in order to get a high yield of berries, gardeners use a special planting method, which includes covering plants with agrofiber or ordinary black plastic wrap. To do this, small holes are made in the film. The secret of the method is that the black material does not let the sun's rays through, and annoying weeds do not grow under it. In order to plant strawberry bushes under the film, you will need to perform the following steps:

      Purchase a black film or agrofibre of the required size. Find mulching material for laying on the ground, the corners of which are laid in dug holes around the perimeter of the site and covered with earth. Start planting fruit bushes. It is better to place them according to the principle of a checkerboard pattern. It is necessary to observe the distance between plants (30 cm). On the film, it is necessary to fix marks in those places where there will be holes and carefully make small cuts. After marking the holes, manually dig medium-sized holes and plant seedlings.

    By cutting large holes, weeds can grow.

    Compatibility of different varieties of strawberries

    Amateur gardeners have a belief that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries. But is it really so? It is actually better not to plant a variety of varieties of such fragrant fruits side by side, as they are pollinated with each other, which entails a decrease in the quality of the berries.

    How to plant strawberries in August so you don't have to worry about next year's harvest

    To get healthy strawberry bushes that will grow well without disease and give a large harvest of sweet berries, you need to plant high-quality seedlings. How to choose the right material for planting? Experts recommend buying annual seedlings with a closed root system (in cups). They should have fibrous roots at least 5 cm long and no more than three well-developed leaves.

    A good harvest is given by elite varieties of strawberries. It will be good if you purchase and plant such seedlings on your plot. Even for the cultivation of this crop, gardeners use frigo-seedlings, which are carefully selected from the bushes of berries available in the garden, then dug out in late autumn and stored in bags at a slight negative temperature.

    Inspect the seedlings, there should be no signs of disease on the leaves and stems

    Where is the best place to buy strawberry seedlings? If you buy it in the markets from private manufacturers, then there is a possibility that the purchased plant will be infected with diseases and pests. It is best to take healthy seedlings obtained from sterile plants grown according to a special test-tube method. Such seedlings are sold by large manufacturers. In specialized nurseries, strawberry seedlings are sold from the end of July to the beginning of August.

    The earlier at the end of summer you plant the bushes of this plant, the more likely it is that flower buds will be laid on them, and the first harvest will be next year. When choosing seedlings, inspect the seedlings well. If you see pale, shriveled leaves on the plants, or there are some points on them, it is better not to buy such material. These signs indicate the poor quality of seedlings, infection with diseases / pests. Buy strawberry seedlings with the following features:

      - leaves of seedlings are leathery / with pubescence, have a rich, healthy, shiny, green color; - the horn of the seedling has a thickness of at least 0.7 cm; - the length of the roots of open seedlings is more than 7 cm; - seedlings do not have damage to the roots, leaves; - the core of the bush is strong, elastic, has a rich green color; - for seedlings in cups or cassettes, the roots should entangle the entire volume of the container in which they are located; - the peat pot should be with roots that have pierced it through and look out;

    Soil preparation

    Planting strawberries is best at the end of the summer season in August. It is desirable to do this in sunny places and on southwestern slopes with a slope of 2-3 degrees. It is not desirable to use plots in the lowlands or a closed type for growing this plant. The acidity of the soil for planting strawberry seedlings should not be more than 5.5-6.5 pH. Bushes of berries will give a good harvest if they are planted on chernozem podzolized soils or on dark gray forest soil, which has a medium or light composition.

    The berry will also bear fruit well on sod-podzolic, sandy loamy soils. It is not advisable to plant strawberries where groundwater is close to the surface. Before planting seedlings in a certain area, it is necessary to first examine it for the presence of pests, and if they are found, destroy the insects with special means. The land for planting strawberries is first cleared of weeds. Then, 2 weeks before planting seedlings, prepare the soil for planting seedlings. 2-3 buckets of organic matter are scattered over the territory of the site per 1 sq. m.

    What crops to plant after: strawberry predecessors

    When choosing a site for planting strawberries, consider which plant grew on it before. You should not use the land for growing this delicious berry if plants from the Asteraceae family, buttercups or tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, sunflowers have recently grown on it. So after what can you plant strawberries? And is it possible to plant this plant after onions? The harvest of berries will be good if you plant seedlings in the soil where they previously grew:

      peas; beans; radish; garlic; parsley; radish; mustard; dill; salad; oats; onion.

    After planting, strawberries need to be watered abundantly.

    At what distance to root a berry: planting scheme with a photo

    When planting seedlings, do not bury them too deep into the ground, otherwise the central point or heart of the bush will be below ground level, which will lead to the death of the plant. It is also impossible to allow shallow planting of strawberries. This is fraught with drying of the heart and death of the bush. Seedlings will take root well and will grow if planted so that the central point of the seedling protrudes slightly above the soil surface.

      When planting seedlings in a hole, you need to make a mound in it and put a plant on it. The roots should not be bent, they should smoothly descend along the tubercle. If they are too long, be sure to trim them a little. After planting the seedlings, the plant should be watered abundantly and a solution of HB 101-93 should be applied under each seedling, diluting 93 drops of this substance in 1 liter of water. Then young bushes are mulched with compost (5-6 cm) or straw, hay, sawdust (10 cm) and covered with special material to create a greenhouse effect for better rooting of seedlings.

    In the future, regular weeding of the bushes is carried out and the mustache is removed. If the weather is dry after planting the seedlings, you need to water the crop so that the ground on the site is wet. During this period, flower buds are laid, on which the next year's berry harvest depends. There are several schemes for planting strawberries:

      - single line. This is planting seedlings in one row. The distance between the bushes of plants should be 15-20 cm, and between the rows - 60-70 cm; - double line. This is planting with ribbons, consisting of 2 rows of bushes. The distance between the tapes - 60-70 cm, rows - 30 cm, bushes - 15-20 cm; - Natural agricultural technology. With this scheme, seedlings are planted every 50 cm in one row on beds 50 cm wide. The distance between rows is 50 cm.

    How to fertilize the soil before planting

    2 weeks before planting seedlings, it is advisable to add to the soil (for every 1 sq. M) 40 g of double superphosphate, up to 20 g of potash fertilizers (wood ash or potassium sulfate). It is desirable to add organic matter to the holes for planting seedling bushes. To do this, dig a hole 25x25x25 cm for each seedling and fill it with a mixture consisting of 1 bucket of earth from the site, 1 bucket of compost, 1 bucket of rotted horse manure, 2 glasses of ash.

    Planting garden strawberries with a mustache in open ground

    One of the ways to obtain strawberry seedlings is to root the mustache from a specially prepared mother bush of this crop. Rosettes and their own root system are formed on such shoots:

      - 2 weeks before transplantation, separate the young seedling obtained from the rooting of the mustache with scissors from the adult plant. From now on, he will switch to his own diet; - when the strawberry sockets ripen, transplant them to a permanent place. And when to plant strawberries with a mustache? It is better to start this process in time from the end of July to the end of August. This should be done on a cloudy day or in the evening, so that the root system of the plant adapts well to the new place; - Divide the area for planting strawberries into rows with a distance of 1 m between them. Plant strawberries at a distance of 20-30 cm between the bushes; - make the depth of the pit for strawberry seedlings 15 cm; - the core of the outlet after planting should be at the level of the soil. It is important not to deepen it and leave it above the ground so that the bush does not die;

    How to plant under a black film

    To get a large crop of strawberries, gardeners use the method of planting a plant under a black film or agrofiber. These devices cover the entire area. Holes are made in the film for planting berry bushes. Black material on the ground does not let sunlight through, and weeds and other plants that are undesirable in this area do not grow under it. To implement this landing method, you need:

      purchase agrofibre or black film, with an area equal to the size of the plot of the future strawberry plantation; then lay the mulching material on the ground, laying its corners in holes along the perimeter and filling it with soil; then start the process of planting seedlings. It is desirable to plant them in a checkerboard pattern with a distance between the bushes of 25-30 cm; on the film, pre-mark the places for the holes and make small perpendicular cuts in them; then dig holes through each hole with your hands and plant seedlings; holes in the film should not be large so as not to provoke the growth of weeds;

    What fertilizer to use or how to feed in the fall

    Plants planted in August must be fertilized. This is done using different top dressing. It is useful to treat strawberries with a solution consisting of 30 g of urea and 10 liters of water. Foliar top dressing is carried out with boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. Treated bushes will bring more harvest in summer, and the quality of berries will be higher than on plants not fertilized with these substances. To make a feed mixture, prepare the following ingredients:

      - molybdenum - 2 g; - manganese - 50 g; - boric acid - 15 g; - water - 15 liters.

    Autumn care for strawberries includes preparing the plant for winter. The bushes of this crop are covered with straw, peat, compost, fallen leaves or corn stalks. These natural substances will not only keep plants from cold in winter, but also fertilize the soil. Special materials are also used as mulch for bushes - spunbond, lutrasil. Covered strawberries will be protected from frost and will give a good harvest next year. Further agrotechnical work with strawberries begins in April.

    You can plant strawberries with a clay masher

    Is it possible to plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other

    In some reviews of gardeners, there is a deep conviction that it is impossible to plant different varieties of strawberries together. So they pollinate among themselves, and then on their bushes the quality of the berries becomes worse. But experts say that the reason for the deterioration of the crop in such cases is not that pollination occurs, but because the plant is degenerating.

    If you delve a little into botany, then you can remember that during the pollination of crops, double fertilization occurs. As a result of this process, seeds are obtained that have the genetic information from the pollinator plant. However, the situation is different with strawberries, because its fruit is not quite what the botanist understands by this term.

    A juicy red berry on a bush of this crop is an overgrown receptacle, which is part of the mother plant and carries only its genetic characteristics. Therefore, the culture whose pollen pollinates strawberry flowers does not affect the quality of the berries. So, planting different varieties side by side is not prohibited. But when propagating a plant with a mustache, it is important not to confuse which variety of strawberries the daughter outlet belongs to.

    Marina Stoletova, source

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