Tool for drilling large holes in walls. How to drill a concrete wall correctly: technology

The master has to make holes in the wall both in the case of capital construction and in solving everyday problems. Much in this matter depends on what material the base plane is made of. The diameter of the future hole also plays a role. Therefore, the material of manufacture of the drill plays an important role - it must be selected correctly. The difference can be significant - any professional will confirm this.

If it’s quite simple, then: a drill for holes in a brick will definitely not cope with concrete - it will burn out in the process. How holes are made in different materials - this needs to be discussed in detail. Let's take a look at the different tools and guidance on when to use which one.

Device for deepening in the wall surface - which is better

How to drill a hole in a wall - this question often arises before a beginner. Today it is not difficult to cope with such a task. If a person has at least minimal experience and uses modern electrical tools in his work, he will definitely cope.

So that after all the work the room remains clean, it is worth using a conductor - thanks to it, you can drill with a minimum amount of dust and pollution.

A puncher is perfect for creating holes in the wall, if, for example, (or for other purposes) - professionals advise using it. Such a technique can easily cope even with high-strength materials; nothing better than a puncher for holes in the wall has yet been invented. But a quality tool is expensive, for home use it is practically not bought. Another option for making holes in the wall is an electric drill, which has a punch effect.

It is the drill that is most often used for cutting holes in the walls. Such a tool is available in almost every family. Some advice from experts will help to significantly expand the scope of use of a conventional drill - there is nothing complicated here.

When choosing a drill, it is important to read its technical description carefully. The recommended power of the appliance is at least 600 W, suitable revolutions are no more than 2500 per minute (it is desirable that there is a function for their adjustment).

And now in detail:

• The presence of a reverse is mandatory. It is this function that allows you to change the rotation of the drill - counterclockwise and clockwise. A model with a keyless chuck is a great choice, because then you don’t have to waste time looking for a key, through which the drills in the device change;
• The impact function of the device is also welcome. It is needed so that the device can easily make holes on any wall surface. It is easy and pleasant to work with such a drill. The bottom line is that certain materials (concrete, cement, bricks and not only) are quickly destroyed by dynamic influences (we are talking about impacts). That is, when a drill does not have this function, it can take a lot of time to drill a hole in the wall. The drill clings to the composition, heats up quickly, but this is of little use. Impact drilling will radically change the approach to business - you get something in the style of chiselling, speed is guaranteed.

Choosing the right drill - how not to make a mistake

Perhaps everyone has seen with their own eyes an impressive range of drills in hardware stores and other retail outlets. It's time to talk about which drill is better to use in certain situations.

Foam concrete, plasterboard, wooden surface can be easily drilled with the simplest drill - there is nothing complicated in this process.

At work with concrete, stone, brick everything is different: here the drill is specially chosen, carbide products are the preferred solution. Unlike a simple one, such a drill is equipped with cutting blades - welded elements are visible, just look at the product.

Every home should have at least a couple of these drills. Common sizes are 6-8 mm. There will always be a use for these products, you can not worry about this. With their help, at any time you can drill a hole in the wall up to 20 cm deep.

Bur is a great choice. to make a big hole. These products are able to cope even with a dense surface. A meter deep is not the limit for them. But a drill is no longer suitable for such work - you need to choose a hammer drill and work with it.

Details about the drill and its use:

1. Boers usually have tails that are 15 mm or more in diameter. There are grooves - they are designed for fastening. However, if the drill is working in hammer mode, they are clamped well in the chuck. On the tail of the drill are its characteristics;
2. If the task is to drill a solid surface, the process is usually divided into a number of stages - then drilling is carried out as quickly and safely as possible;
3. First, a drill is selected: the recommended length is up to 200 mm - it will easily reach a depth of 150 mm;
4. Then choose a long drill, designed already for 350 mm;
5. Drilling is completed with a product whose length is 500 mm. You can't do without a high power drill. But, as mentioned above, such a technique is not designed for heavy loads - except perhaps in certain situations;
6. When buying a puncher is not possible for some reason, it makes sense to rent it for a couple of hours - today there are services that provide such a service.

If you need to punch a hole in the wall with a diameter of 150 mm or more, a drill will be the best tool. They are distinguished by reliable fastening in the cartridge, have an impressive length.

Safe drilling of walls with your own hands

You can get a hole in the wall yourself. It is important to do the job safely, but at the same time efficiently and quickly. For different wall materials, there is its own instruction for the performance of work - these rules must be observed.

The master before drilling should carefully examine the surface of the wall. In the place of the future deepening there should not be cables - electrical or any other. If you rush at this stage, you can seriously damage the wiring. Moreover, even the master's own health may suffer due to such carelessness. Fortunately, it is possible to bypass cables while drilling.

How not to get caught in the wire when drilling walls

On the walls are usually located sockets, switches. They must be examined carefully. It is from such nodes that network wires diverge vertically. They go to the junction box.

If this is the case, then this is an ideal situation, which is rare. As a rule, electricians do not follow the recommendations in all cases and go straight ahead - to save the cable. That is, diagonal wires in houses and apartments are located everywhere.

Detailed guide:

• Usually, in order to check whether there is a cable on the wall section or not, devices are used. They are not expensive and locate the wiring accurately;
• If such a device is not at hand, it is worth understanding that the wire is usually placed at a depth of up to 1 cm in the wall surface. To find out whether it is there or not, you can carefully make a small hole using some blunt tool. If there is no cable, you can safely drill. Experts say that the recess can be made up to 2 cm - to make sure there is no cable;
• The drill does not need to be pressed too hard against the wall. Every few millimeters, the master must inspect the hole - is there any wiring there. The wire of the electrical network can be found with a special device - it is presented in almost all specialized stores. When buying such a product, it is worth clarifying whether it is of high quality. It is worth choosing the best - after all, the health of the master depends on his testimony. Such an apparatus will show the places where reinforcement lies in concrete surfaces - this is also important when drilling;
• Copper electrical wires are looked for faster - if they are no further than 1 cm in the wall. And the search for aluminum wiring can only be done with a device with a metal detector function. In the process of searching, you need to look at the indicator constantly - it is made in the form of an LED light bulb. However, he also emits a signal, so you need to watch out - the "assistant" will definitely inform you if he finds something;
• If the metal detector mode is on and something is found, the diode will start to glow, the master will hear a continuous sound. In any modern device there is also a sensitivity regulator. The finder feeds on a standard "Krona".

Any builder who installs tension and suspension structures on the ceiling surface cannot do without such a unit. Systems on the ceiling are most often fastened with self-tapping screws - this is where all the electrical cables run. In a word, you can’t do without insurance - you need to use the device.

Drilling holes in brick or concrete surfaces

The current topic is how to make a hole in a brick or concrete surface. For a brick, a victorious drill is enough.

A conductor is attached to the place where the work will be carried out. A slot is being drilled - in the process, the revolutions of the power tool should not be high: the drill should not overheat.

If the surface of the ceiling or walls is made of high-strength cement, drilling may be difficult. Usually 400 brand material is used here - if so, then there will be no problems during operation. And if the building was erected a long time ago, the concrete there is very strong and it will be difficult to drill.

Besides:

1. Today, manufacturers are investing iron fittings in wall blocks and panels - to improve quality. These are rods, the thickness of which usually does not exceed 2 cm. Crushed stone can also be found here. You can't take all this with a Pobedite drill;
2. But there is a way out. If the drill hit the rebar, you need to put an ordinary drill. If it was not there at the right time, the place for the recess is moved slightly down or up diagonally;
3. Drill blows can crush crushed granite in the wall. During this work, the tool often jams. To simplify your task, the mechanism should be rotated 4 turns;
4. When the obstacle is passed, the master continues drilling with a drill bit. The drill and the puncher will cope with the problem of such a plan instantly, the worker will successfully get what he wants.

Holes in tiles

What if you need to drill a tile? For this work, a drill with welded protrusions is chosen - outwardly they resemble teeth. It is these elements that are commonly called a crown for drilling tiles.

But if you need to get a small hole, you should not use a crown. Then a mark is made in place. Further work is carried out as follows:

• To make a mark on the tile, a core is used. When such a tool is not available, you can take a simple self-tapping screw or a thick nail with a sharp tip. The glaze from the tile is carefully removed where the hole should be. Small revolutions are set on the tool - the same as when working with bricks;
• Once the glaze is removed, a hole is made with a small drill;
• Then it is expanded to the required diameter - a thicker drill will help with this.

Large recess in the wall

When installing ventilation systems, wide recesses are usually made in the wall - 20 mm or more. A meter is also often placed in the wall (the one on which the electricity indicators appear) - in this situation, you will have to make a niche at all. A carbide drill will help solve the problem in a private house.

You have to act like this:

• On the wall, mark a place for deepening - with a simple pencil. From the outside, holes are drilled on the wall; drills with a diameter of at least 5 mm are selected for work. A distance of 1.5 cm is maintained between the holes;
• To go deeper into the surface by 20 cm, it is necessary to make about 30 revolutions with a drill. Only after that, materials are removed from the wall with a hammer and a chisel - in this case, a niche of the required dimensions will be formed. If drills of a smaller diameter are used, the edges will come out neat. But you have to make more holes to achieve the desired result.

A common situation: the wall is made of solid material, so it is difficult to get a through recess. In this case, the work is carried out in several stages..

Namely:

• If a surface can be drilled on both sides, it is first done on one side, after which a through full recess is already performed. The steps taken are repeated until the result is satisfactory;
• When it is not possible to drill the surface of the wall from one side and the other, the processes are done in turn, the work is not done at once, but in several steps. From the mark made earlier, another line is drawn. As soon as the unnecessary material is removed, you can deepen the drill into the niche - you do not need to touch the edges on the wall in the process. A long drill at the beginning of work will greatly facilitate the work.

In fact, drilling a hole in the wall is not as difficult as it seems - including, get a precise, neat recess:

• A sheet of sandpaper is glued with glue or tape on the side of the conductor. The size of the element depends on the area where the hole is located. Due to such a simple manipulation, the adhesion of the device and the wall surface will increase, the master will accurately make the perfect hole where necessary. Stationary limiters are also used frequently. The cost of the product is quite moderate, in retail trade everyone will be able to find it;
• Sometimes a hole needs to be drilled under the dowel. As you know, they can have different diameters, but most often - up to 10 mm. It all depends on what you plan to hang, the weight of the product also plays a role. The density of the wall material must be taken into account;
• To get a universal conductor, several holes of the required size are made in it with a simple drill - so that the device can be hung without problems;
• Often a plate is attached to the conductor. Thanks to this, the shelf reliably protects the wall surface finish from debris and possible dust. Such a device is also used for drilling holes;
• Places of the required sizes are measured on the conductor - from the shelf at the required height. Next, holes are drilled. To get the optimal recess, the shelf is laid on the floor - the slots will come out exactly in size, at the required height. When performing installation, it is worth acting in stages, following the rules. The plinth will lie on the floor surface correctly - there is no doubt about it;
• Sometimes you need to hang one or another decorative element on the wall - a photo frame, a picture, or something like that. It can not be done without an auxiliary conductor. The bottom line is that the holes should be located at a clear distance between them. It is worth considering your wishes and making sure that the work is done in the same style as the entire room.
• In order to make a conductor with your own hands, which will help you drill holes as correctly as possible, a metal sheet or plywood is selected. Marking is performed on this element, then the required number of recesses are made with a conventional drill.

It is worth considering options when parts need to be mounted on several screws, and not on one:

1. On the wall, the first hole is drilled, the second is made with the same size as the self-tapping screw. The conductor will help to get the exact recess. After the dowel is hammered into the hole;
2. The conductor can be screwed to the wall surface with a self-tapping screw and a dowel. Alignment is carried out with a water level - this method will help to get even grooves and they will all be located on the same horizontal line, which is required;
3. With the help of a simple conductor (which you can make yourself), you can get recesses with a drill - they will be at the distance from each other that is planned;
4. This technology will help the master to make holes even at large intervals. First, holes are drilled for this, as mentioned above. Then the conductor is screwed on with screws on both sides. The drill makes other recesses and the result is perfect.

If you plan to pass the cable through a hole in the wall, it should be made more by 20%, because it should not be pinched. The main rule for cable in the wall is freedom.

Results

This is what the answer to the question looks like - how to drill a large diameter hole in the wall. Everyone will cope - the main thing is to act without haste, to apply the markup correctly.

Video on the topic will help to realize the plan:

Limiters will help to drill the wall to the desired depth, with the required diameter. Working with brick is not as difficult as working with concrete - but accuracy in the process does not hurt, as in any other business - it is important not to forget about it.

When preparing for repairs in the house, you need to be prepared for the fact that you will have to drill the walls. For example, to fix a profile for drywall sheets. At this stage, some difficulties usually arise, since in many houses the walls are made of concrete. In addition to high strength, the material can be combined with reinforcement, which makes the work doubly difficult. To drill a concrete wall with a conventional drill, you need to familiarize yourself with all the nuances of the workflow in advance.

Drilling load-bearing walls and partitions made of concrete is not an easy task. To get the job done quickly and efficiently need to know some secrets and tricks. It also does not hurt to listen to the opinion of experienced craftsmen who advise:

How to choose a tool

Most often, a hammer drill is used to drill concrete. It has several advantages over a conventional drill.

These include:

Despite these advantages, such a tool is not always suitable for work. In some situations, its use is simply impractical.

The perforator will not work in the following cases:

• when shallow holes (10–12 mm) are needed in the wall;
• when working with a foam block (otherwise the material will crumble);
• if the required number of holes does not exceed 15 pieces.

Based on this, we can conclude that a conventional drill is more suitable for home use. To purchase such a tool for drilling walls, you need to consider a number of important points.

The drill must meet the following requirements:

1. It must be impact, since this type is most effective when drilling concrete walls. In a hammerless drill, the bits and chuck will fail too quickly.
2. It is better to buy nozzles for it with victorious ones, with a purpose for concrete work. And the tip is coated with durable alloys.

You can also choose a hammer drill. True, such a tool is more expensive than a conventional model. But on the other hand, it has increased power, which can be adjusted at your discretion.

What nozzles are better

In order to be able to drill a concrete wall with a drill, you must first select the appropriate nozzles. They must exactly match the design.

The following types are suitable for work:

Before using any nozzles, it is necessary to check the wall for the presence of cables and wires, as well as fittings (if there is a device for detecting metal). This will help protect the wall from major damage, and the tool from breakage.

First you need to prepare a drill, nozzles and other related items. Then in the process of work you will not have to be distracted and waste time looking for the right things.

Drilling is often necessary in cases where:

• rough finish;
• wiring;
• plumbing installation;
• concreting communications.

At the same time, the concrete wall (if it is drilled correctly) should remain without severe damage and large chips.

When working with a drill with a pobedite nozzle, sometimes you need to use a metal punch. It is selected according to the size of the hole. This tool makes it possible for the drill not to jam when the drill is deepened. To do this, the punch is driven into concrete and hammered to break apart a solid obstacle. This process can take quite a long time, so it is better to use a diamond crown. In addition, a drill with such a nozzle will never get stuck in concrete.

Drilling sequence:

1. Inspect the tools carefully. The drill must be in good condition, and the drill must be intact.
2. Start carefully drilling a hole in the concrete with a drill, stopping the continuous operation of the tool after 10 minutes from the start of the action.
3. You can continue the process only after the motor has cooled down.
4. Before drilling the next hole, it is necessary to moisten the nozzle with water. This will protect the metal from warping.

In such simple ways, you can drill a concrete wall without a puncher.

Sometimes there are cases when the drill gets stuck in the wall. It is not desirable to use force in this case, otherwise it will break off, and the edge of the nozzle will remain in the concrete. To free the drill, you must first disconnect it from the drill, then put on a smaller diameter crown and remove the stuck part.

To perform drilling yourself and at the same time avoid various injuries and unpleasant incidents, you need to follow safety precautions and follow the recommendations of specialists.

When making repairs in an apartment or house, the question always arises of drilling a wall. You can use different tools depending on the purpose of the hole and the material from which the surface is made.

When working with each tool there are nuances, especially when drilling a wall. How to make the right hole, and what recommendations to follow?

Drilling holes in the wall correctly: general rules and recommendations for drilling

In order to properly drill a wall, you need to take into account the material from which it is made, based on this, you need to choose a tool.

• when working, hold the tool correctly. For example, a drill in the hands should be straight, and enter the surface in a vertical direction;
• for convenience, use an additional handle;
• Depending on the material of the surface, select the necessary drills.

The material of the tool used to work must be harder than the surface to be drilled.

Tools for different surfaces:

• concrete, stone, brick wall - use a carbide drill, more often victorious;
• metal - drill for metal;
• tile, ceramic tiles - special drills for these materials, sometimes it can be replaced with a drill for concrete with surfacing will win;
• Chipboard, wood - for holes smaller than 10–12 mm, a drill for metal is suitable, for larger ones, special drills for wood are used.

Work tools

For work, they use different tools, the main ones: a drill, a puncher, a screwdriver. When using each, there are nuances.

Drill

The tool is suitable when you need to make several holes. You can use a regular drill. When plunging a drill bit into the body of the wall, sometimes it is necessary to break concrete with a punch that matches the diameter of the hole. This is necessary when the drill starts to get stuck in the surface, bumping into too dense areas. The process is quite labor intensive.

For greater efficiency, you can use universal drills that have a diamond coating. They are installed only on a conventional drill or on a tool where the vibration function is disabled.

For large-scale work, an impact drill and drills with victorious tips are used. They are designed for holes up to 12 mm. The drill is suitable for work with metal, concrete.

To prevent the tool from overheating, periodically moisten the drill with cold water.

Perforator

The perforator is a versatile tool. With it, you can make a hole in the wall of wood, tiles and concrete.

The tool has several functions - drilling, drilling with impact and impact mode. To make a hole, you need to select the desired drill depending on the surface and work by selecting the mode.

screwdriver

A screwdriver is one of the most popular tools for repair and construction work. With it, you can twist and unscrew self-tapping screws, drill wood, metal, chipboard, plywood, tiles, plywood, lightweight concrete.

What nozzles to choose

For each material, a specific nozzle is used:

• concrete, brick, stone - a drill with a carbide plate or a drill;
• tiles, glass - conical drills with diamond coating;
• metal - a spiral drill with a cylindrical cone;
• wood, drywall - for holes of different diameters, drills are used: feather, ballerina, screw, saw bits for wood;
• foam concrete - victorious drills.

Is it possible to do without a drill and puncher

Make a hole without a drill and puncher, but not in a concrete wall. To do this, you need a bolt or punch.

A bolt is a pipe with teeth at the end. The punch has an end in the form of a bison or a tetrahedron.

The working end of the tool is applied to the place where the hole will be. On the opposite side of it, you need to strike hard, rotating the tool after each turn.

How to drill without dust: options, the better

Construction work is always accompanied by dust and debris, but with some recommendations and tips, it can be significantly reduced:

• the hammer drill leaves a little dust during operation so that it does not scatter around the room at the same time use a construction vacuum cleaner. Some brands of tool have a built-in vacuum cleaner, which makes the task easier;
• using a drill, it is best to either make a jig at the end or a bag, or make an envelope under the hole so that debris falls into it.

How to drill holes in a brick wall: the choice of tools and nozzles

To make a hole in a brick wall, a puncher with a drill or an impact drill is suitable, most often the latter is used. Its power should be at least 600 watts, the minimum number of revolutions should be from 2500 per minute. It is best to use a drill with smooth power adjustment and quick clamping function.

Using the hammer drilling function, the drill becomes identical to a hammer drill. Increased speed and ease of operation. To make a hole in a brick wall, you need to use the punch method of a dynamic nature. Without this, the drill will not be able to catch on the inside of the brick.

Drills must be victorious. If through drilling is necessary, then a drill is used.

How to drill a load-bearing wall in a panel house with a puncher

In most panel houses, the walls are made of concrete; in order to make a hole with a perforator, you need to use drills.

In addition to them, you can use special crowns. They have soldering around the circumference. Applying them, you need to turn off the percussion function of the perforator.

Specialists use diamond drilling, this requires powerful equipment and skills.

How to drill reinforced concrete under a pipe with an impact drill

Using an impact drill for reinforced concrete, you need to use the "perforator" mode and the drill bits. First, the hole is made smaller, then larger. The drill needs to be cooled down periodically.

Important! When working with concrete, you must not get into the reinforcement, otherwise the drill will break. With the help of a special device, you can check where it is located.

How to make a hole in a concrete wall with a drill

It is difficult to drill a concrete wall with a conventional drill. It is necessary to install victorious drills and select low speeds. A dowel is inserted in the right place to help the tool break through the surface. Further, drilling must be alternated with blows on the dowel.

The drill must be constantly cooled, otherwise it will burn out.

If the drill does not have speed control, then it will not be possible to make a hole.

How to make a hole in a concrete wall in an apartment with a drill

For a small hole, you can use a punch. It will make, most conveniently, from a drill, diameter 8 mm. The end is sharpened sharply. The drill is placed in the right place, rotated, while hitting it with a hammer. Periodically moisten the drill so that it works longer.

When working with tools, you must follow the safety rules and general recommendations:

How to fix a large drilled wall

You can close up unnecessary holes in the wall using a special building mixture. It provides strength and durability. The composition should be selected depending on the area and type of defect.

With the help of putty, you can level the surface, including concrete. There are several types of putty:

• cement - used in exterior and interior decoration, suitable for concrete. Durable and moisture resistant. Dries for a long time and often with a mesh, which requires re-application;
• gypsum - used in dry rooms, not resistant to water and afraid of temperature changes. It does not crack when applied, so it can be applied immediately in a thick layer;
• acrylic finish. You need to apply a thin layer, so it is suitable for small defects.

None of the mixtures are used for sealing through holes.

Polyurethane foam is a versatile material. It happens one-component (used without preparation) and two-component (when used, a construction gun or mixer is used).

When applied, the foam expands in volume and fills the desired space. Hardens and gives high-quality density. Deep holes can be sealed.

Suitable for removing large defects. It has good adhesion, frost-resistant, strong and durable.

Having decided to make a hole, carefully read the rules and recommendations. Choose a tool, depending on the composition of the surface, and a drill. If you are not confident in your own skills, then entrust the work to specialists.

Useful video

When landscaping an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TVs, skirting boards and much more.

In order to hang a photo or a small picture, of course, you should not drill into the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this business. It is best to use a dowel - nails from mounting brackets that fix computer network cables to the walls. These studs are long enough, thick and hardened. It turns out, to score even in a concrete wall.

Performing the operation of drilling holes in the walls with modern equipment with power tools will not present more difficulty if you know how to properly drill. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a jig for dust-free drilling.

How to drill a wall

A better tool than a puncher for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls has not yet been invented. But rarely anyone can afford the luxury of having such an expensive tool in the household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.

Drill selection

When buying an electric drill, you need to be guided by the following technical specifications.

The power of the drill must be at least 600 watts. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the possibility of their smooth adjustment from zero to maximum. The presence of reverse rotation (switch the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The chuck is best quick-clamping, you won’t have to waste time clamping drills and searching for a constantly lost key. The diameter of the drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.

The presence of the included function of drilling with impact. Of course, when this function is turned on, a drill will not become a full-fledged hammer drill, but drilling walls will be much easier and faster, and that's why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand static load - pressure - very well. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - impact. Due to a strong blow, karatekas easily break the brick in two with the edge of the palm. When drilling with a drill without an impact function, there is a simple pressure of the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on the material, so drilling is slow and the drill gets very hot due to friction. Drilling with impact is completely different. The drill, on impact, punctures a part of the material with its cutting edge, and, hitting with a blow into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of the material particles. There is something like chiseling.

Drill selection

Walls made of wood, drywall, foam concrete are successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you already need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by cutting edges made of carbide material welded onto a conventional drill, which usually wins. Rarely artificial diamond.

Pobedit insert is clearly visible at the end of the upper drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobeditovy drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.

Drills with victorious surfacing can drill a hole with a depth of no more than 10-15 cm. For drilling to a greater depth, for example, for drilling through a wall, a drill is used. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. At the drill, even the cutting edges are not made sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.

Drills come with a shank diameter of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS + or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a conventional cam chuck. The standard and diameter of the drill are knocked out on its shank.

If you need to go through a thick wall with a drill, for example, half a meter, then the passage is performed in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but of different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, the wall is drilled with a drill 20 cm long to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and drilling is completed with a drill 50 cm long. The drill for such work must be powerful enough. Of course, the drill is not designed for such a load and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. It is better to perform this kind of work, rent a real hammer drill.

How to drill a wall

Before you start drilling a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no electrical wires or other cables running under the intended place in the plaster. Otherwise, you can damage the wiring and get yourself under voltage.

How not to get into the wire

It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch, socket. Usually in the vertical direction, wires go up from them to the junction box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving wire, often hidden wiring is laid diagonally. Here's an example. When I was doing repairs and moving the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper, the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.

But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. From the chandelier, too, the wire will also depart to the nearest box.

Usually the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check with a rather blunt tool, for example, with a screwdriver, dig the wall to this depth. If no wires are found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, up to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press hard on the drill and, after deepening for every couple of millimeters, visually check if the wire has caught.

There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of the passage of wires in the wall. Here are some of them not expensive, made in China, but, nevertheless, they work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper wiring with a drowning depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made of aluminum wires is detected only in metal detector mode.

Detection of wiring is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent sound signal. In metal detector mode, the detection diode glows constantly and the sound emitted is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Kron type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and stretch ceilings, since the supporting structures are mounted on self-tapping screws near the ceiling, just where electricians usually lay wiring.

Drilling holes in reinforced concrete

Brick walls are drilled with a Pobedite drill without much difficulty. We decided on the place, attached the jig and, pressing hard on the drill, drilled a hole. It happens that a burnt brick comes across in the wall, which is drilled more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the shock mode turned on, pressing harder on the handle of the drill, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.

I bring to your attention the largest video on which you can see how a brick wall is drilled with the help of an ordinary drill with a perforator function and a drill with victorious overlays. A selection was made in the brick wall for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.

As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful, the drill during long drilling heats up to a high temperature and touching it can result in severe burns. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill into water.

Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is 600 or 500 cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only cement grade 400 is used. In old-built houses, columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete are sometimes found. They drill very hard and take a long time.

In the manufacture of concrete blocks and wall panels, for strength, iron reinforcement welded together perpendicularly to each other, which is corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, is mounted in them, and crushed granite is added. A Pobedit drill cannot overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, during drilling, the drill suddenly stopped deepening, it means that it stumbled upon rebar or granite. The reinforcement is successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you didn’t have a simple drill at hand and it’s permissible to move the hole, then you can move diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble from blows to a drill or a narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each impact, so that the tool does not jam in concrete and the work goes faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter of a turn. After removing the obstruction, drilling continues with a winning drill. For a drill with a perforator, granite pebbles are not an obstacle and are successfully drilled.

Drilling tiles

For drilling in tiles with a carbide-tipped drill not specifically designed for tiles, the glaze must first be removed after marking the drilling point.

This is done very simply, with a core, and in case of its absence, you can use an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with a sharp end to chip off the glaze in the place of the future hole with very light blows and then drill like a brick wall at low speeds.

Drilling large holes in the wall

When equipping ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a large diameter hole in the wall, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide an electric meter in the wall, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.

At home, this problem can be solved with a carbide drill. With a pencil, the contour of the future hole is outlined on the wall. From the outside of the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes of about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drillings with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, the wall material is sampled using a chisel and a hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will turn out to be more accurate, but more holes will have to be drilled.

If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to get through drilling, then in this case it is possible to drill in two stages.

If it is possible to drill a wall from two sides, then drilling is first performed, as described above, on one side of the wall, then a hole is drilled in the wall in the geometric center of the resulting sample, that is, through. Relative to the resulting hole, marking is performed on the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.

If it is not possible to drill a thick wall on both sides, then drilling and sampling will have to be done in two stages. Another line is drawn from the marking line from the outside, at a distance sufficient so that after the first selection in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deep into the niche made without touching the edges of the wall.

To reduce the complexity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.

Drilling depth gauge

To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tubes) of the required length on the drill bit of the drill until it stops in the chuck.

If you didn’t have a suitable cambric at hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape by winding a few turns of it. This simple tool will speed up your work and save you from having to stop drilling to measure the depth of the hole.

Dust free drilling jig

Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place, and if there are more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or even worse, it cannot be hung, since the installed dowels do not match the mounting ones. loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling from vibration, it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is a simple technology that allows you to drill two or more holes strictly in the specified places.

Precise hole drilling

It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or two-sided tape over the entire area of ​​​​the side of the conductor, which is applied to the wall. At the same time, the grip of the conductor with the wall surface increases many times over and, when drilling, the specified accuracy of the positioning of the drill is ensured. The hole will turn out exactly at the markup.

Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, it is necessary to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the conductor, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.

To top it off, attach the plate at a right angle to the end of the base of the conductor. Thanks to this refinement, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent wallpaper contamination and reduce dust scattering in all directions.

The proposed fixture is also indispensable for drilling holes for fixing skirting boards. Drill a hole in the conductor at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, put the shelf on the floor and you will get all the holes exactly at the right height from the floor, which will guarantee a snug fit of the skirting board to the floor surface.

Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then it is impossible to perform accurate drilling without a conductor.

For the manufacture of a jig for precision drilling, a board, a sheet of plywood or metal is suitable. After marking, the required number of holes is drilled in the sheet with an ordinary drill. Consider the case for fixing the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill with which the wall will be drilled, the second, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall with the help of the jig, for the exact drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.

A jig is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw in a hammered dowel, leveled with a water levelso that the drilled holes are on the same horizontal line.

Thanks to the use of the simplest conductor, which can be made in a few minutes from any material at hand, the holes were obtained exactly at a given distance from each other.

Using the same technology, it is possible to drill a number of holes at a greater distance from each other. In this case, the extreme holes are first drilled according to the technology described above, the conductor is screwed with two extreme self-tapping screws, and then all the other holes are checked.

The proposed options for conductors are convenient when repairing an apartment, when dirt is a common thing everywhere.
However, when the repair is completed and clean, drilling becomes stressful. I don’t want to stain carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust at all.

Dust free drilling

During the drilling of walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This is because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and ejects it heated in the cartridge area. This measure allows, with small dimensions, to make a drill of greater power and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I present a simple design that allows you to drill without dust.

The dust-free drilling jig is a modified version of the previous version, but the shelf has been replaced with a part cut off from a plastic bottle. A piece of 9 - 11 ply plywood 80 × 150 mm in size is cut, a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line. From the side on which the sandpaper will be glued, a trapezoidal sample is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake when drilling.

A part is cut off from the plastic bottle so that the rest can be fixed on the jig. The width of the base of the jig is chosen based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter bottle will do. An electrical tape is wound around the threaded part of the neck of the bottle until a size equal to the inner diameter of the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner is obtained. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the desired configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and fix them with a stationery stapler. You can cover them with tape. There is no need for tightness. Gaps of a few millimeters will not play a role, since the suction force of even a low-powered vacuum cleaner is excessive.

Then, using a furniture stapler, along the perimeter of the end of the base of the jig, from the side where sandpaper is not glued, the formed part of the bottle is fixed. In the bottle we make a hole for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, as the edges forming the hole will become thicker and will last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. You can melt the hole with a nail heated to red on a gas stove.

We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, do a test drilling.

The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle, nor brick flour on the drilling surface!