Irises: planting and care, varieties, cultivation. Planting bearded irises How to plant irises

This is a perennial, and, it would seem, caring for it does not involve much trouble. However, our readers have a lot of questions: how to plant an iris and how to care for it? What are the features of caring for individual varieties? What causes irises and how to treat them? We decided to answer all questions regarding planting and caring for irises in one article.

Part 1. General rules for planting and care

Despite the fact that iris is considered an unpretentious culture, you will need to observe simple rules planting and care. It is also important to consider the variety and variety of the plant, since each species has its own characteristics.

Landing

How, when and where to plant irises?

Before planting irises, you need to choose the right place for planting. The groundwater level in the area should not be too high. If ground water are still too close to the soil surface, you will need to make a drainage layer or add a layer of soil, raising the area by about 15 cm.

The plant prefers the sun, so the site should be open and well lit. In the shade, the iris blooms not as intensely and for a long time as in the sun.

It is also important that the site is protected from the winds. If such a place cannot be found, then it will be possible in the future to use supports for tying tall plants.

It is possible to plant irises with bulbs in the spring in the ground. In this case we are talking specifically about bulbous irises. As you know, irises are rhizomatous and bulbous. Planting dates in spring are from March to May, the main thing is that the soil warms up to at least 10 degrees Celsius. Flowering is probably already in June, but very often irises bloom only on next year or flowering is rather weak.

Planting irises in autumn should come true a few weeks before frost . Better - for a month. The main thing is that the plant has time to take root before the cold comes. Otherwise, freezing or even death of the culture is likely.

But most often landing is carried out in the summer, starting from its middle. Experienced gardeners recommend planting just in the summer, because before winter, irises will have time to lay buds, and already at the end of spring of next year they will begin to bloom successfully without the risk of freezing in winter.

Video on the topic "Planting irises with bulbs in the ground"

What kind of soil do irises like - acidic or alkaline? Not that and not that. irises prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. On acidic soil, the plant will not please with its flowers, and is also subject to a bacterial disease. Therefore, if the plant has already been planted on such soil, it will be necessary to add lime, chalk or ash to it to neutralize the soil.

In addition, the plant does not like heavy soils. It is recommended to add sand, peat or compost to such soil. If there is an excess of peat in the soil, then organic matter will be required.

What is correct and incorrect landing? When landing incorrectly, excessive deepening of the root system in the ground which hinders the process of cultural development. This will negatively affect flowering. It can also cause the plant to die.

Stages of planting rhizomatous iris:

1. Dig a hole and make a small earthen mound in its center;
2. Put the central root on this hill and distribute the lateral roots along the sides of the hole;
3. When planting rhizomatous iris, it should be remembered that the rhizome should be almost level with the ground;
4. Sprinkle the lateral roots with earth and compact, and cover the central root with sand, the layer of which should not exceed 2 cm.

Stages of planting iris bulbs:

1. Make a hole and put the onion in it. The bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom;
2. Cover the bulb with soil. The planting depth of an iris bulb is three bulb diameters. Usually it is about 10 cm. This is very important, otherwise the bulb located close to the soil surface may freeze in winter. This is especially true for heat-loving species. The deeper the bulb is, the higher the chances of its successful germination;
3. The distance between the irises during planting is required to be about 10 cm.

If the bulbs were purchased too early, then planting irises in pots is possible in early spring. When the soil warms up, the iris can be transplanted to the garden plot.

When will iris bloom after planting?

If the plant was planted in autumn or summer, then flowering can be seen next spring. If the planting was carried out in the spring, then it is likely that flowering will come only after a year, although you can often enjoy flowers in the summer.

Growing from seed

Bearded iris seeds.

How to grow irises from seeds? There are two methods of growing iris from seeds:

• Sowing seeds in September;
• Sowing seeds in March.

When sown in September, there is a risk that frosts will start late, when the seeds have had time to germinate. In this case, the seedling is likely to freeze.

How to store seeds until March:

• Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and put in a container;
• Keep the container under the freezer;
• After a month, transfer the container to a warm, but not too hot place;
• As soon as the seeds hatch, they need to be planted in light soil with mandatory additional illumination;
• In May, seedlings can already be transplanted into open ground.

Important! Growing from seeds is possible only for species irises, since they retain the qualities of mother crops.

Is it possible and how to grow irises from seeds from China? The process itself is the same as when growing from collected or purchased seeds. However, the success of growing Chinese seeds is being questioned. Most flower growers failed to grow plants (not only irises, but also other crops) from seeds from China.

Basics of care

How to care for irises? What kind of plant care do you need after winter? How to create favorable growing conditions for culture?

Caring for rhizomatous irises is minimal. After planting, it is necessary to carefully remove weeds by hand, as well as carefully loosen the soil, since root system plants are located close to the surface of the earth. Subsequently, when the plant grows, weeding and loosening the soil are optional.

It is required to follow a number of rules for care:

• Watering the plant is required in dry weather every day, and in normal weather - about 3 times a week. Watering must be done in the evening and controlled so that drops of water do not fall on the leaves of the plant;
• So that the wind does not break the stems of tall irises, they need to be tied to supports;
• At bulbous species it is necessary to remove old, withered leaves, as well as cut flower stalks at the end of flowering;
• It is necessary to apply fertilizer three times:
  1. In springtime;
  2. During the budding period;
  3. Within a month after the completion of flowering - for bulbous plants, and for rhizomatous plants - in August.

Top dressing in spring should be in the form of fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. During the budding period, the same fertilizers are required, but the amount of potassium and nitrogen must be increased. After the end of flowering, fertilizing with a content of phosphorus and potassium is introduced.

Important! There is no need to apply fertilizer during the flowering stage.

Care of irises after flowering includes the following steps:

1. Shelter for the winter;
2. Soil fertilizers with mineral top dressings;
3. Pruning peduncles and stems.

What should be the wintering of irises?

Young specimens are recommended to cover for the winter. This also applies to heat-loving varietal species of iris. Spruce branches or dry foliage are suitable as shelter. With the advent of spring, do not hesitate to remove the shelter, but do it as early as possible. You can also dig bulbs of heat-loving species for the winter.

Adult specimens tolerate frosts more easily, it is not necessary to cover them.

pruning

Pruning Germanic or bearded iris.

How to cut:

• Pruning is done at the end of flowering;
• Faded flowers are removed along with the green receptacle;
• You can also remove the flower stems. At the same time, it is important to save the leaves;
• Also in the spring after winter, you can remove old, withered leaves;
• All manipulations are carried out manually or with the help of sharp scissors.

Caring for irises in the spring in the country includes:

• Removing shelter when the threat of frost has passed;
• Top dressing - immediately after removing the shelter and during the formation of buds;
• In the spring treatment for diseases is required.

Is it possible to grow irises at home?

You can, but for home growing it is better to use dwarf varieties. In this case, a number of rules must be observed:

• Sufficient sunlight, especially during the flowering period;
• The temperature of the content should be no higher than 20 degrees;
• It is required to water the iris once a week, and during the flowering period, increase the frequency of watering up to 3 times a week;
• Top dressing is required to be applied two weeks after planting, during the budding period and at the end of flowering;
• The air must be dry.

Part 2. The nuances of growing

Iris includes 800 species. Some of them are successfully cultivated all over the world. All varieties are different. For example, Dutch iris is a bulbous crop, while Siberian and bearded irises are rhizomatous plants. Planting and care of all varieties have their own characteristics.

Siberian

This variety is considered the most hardy. It has a root system. The cultivation of this crop is possible not only in central Russia, but also in the northern regions.

The nuances of caring for Siberian irises:

• Sufficient sunlight and heat. Sunlight is especially important when grown in northern areas;
• Permeable soil that does not retain moisture with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• Twice top dressing: in early spring and during the formation of buds;
• Trimmings of old leaves and withered peduncles.

The planting of Siberian irises is different. Their roots need to be buried about 7 cm into the ground.

Japanese or xiphoid

Japanese irises

Heat-loving and rather unpretentious plants are Japanese irises. The rules for planting and caring for this plant as a whole do not differ from the agricultural technology of other varieties.

Sword iris care includes:

• Sufficient sunlight;
• Feeding two or three times a year. It is recommended to give preference to mineral fertilizer, but organic substances should not be neglected either;
• Shelter for the winter is mandatory when growing a crop in central Russia or in the northern regions;
• Autumn pruning of leaves.

When planting, the root system needs to be buried about 6 cm into the ground so that the rhizome does not freeze in winter.

Mesh

These are bulbous crops. It is advisable to plant them at the beginning of the autumn period. The bulb deepens general rules planting bulbous plants.

Features of caring for net iris:

• Nutritious, permeable and light soil;
• Sufficient sunlight;
• Proper watering. There should be no stagnant water in the soil. Watering is required only in dry weather, and during the budding period, the soil should always be moist;
• Mineral fertilizers and compost are used as top dressing.

Dutch

Dutch iris is a bulbous plant. Their bulbs are small in size. It is recommended to plant them at the end of summer, since the bulbs do not tolerate autumn cold snaps.

bulbous care Dutch iris implies:

• Excess moisture in the soil is fraught with diseases up to the death of the plant, watering is required only during a period of prolonged drought;
• Sufficient light;
• After flowering, the bulbs are recommended to be dug up.

marsh

It differs from other types of marsh (water) iris, it has its own characteristics of care. This look is perfect for decorating ornamental ponds in garden areas. It is recommended to plant a variety in early autumn or at the very end of summer. At the same time, it is recommended to choose moistened, even flooded areas for planting. This is the most common wild iris.

The nuances of caring for marsh iris:

• Do not allow the soil to dry out;
• Sufficient sunlight;
• Wind protection;
• Top dressing, including in the fall before preparing for winter;
• Autumn pruning of leaves.

It is not necessary to cover the swamp iris, they are resistant to frost.

bearded

A popular variety of bearded iris Gypsy

This is one of the most popular and beautiful varieties of culture. Planting such an iris should be carried out in the summer, preferably in the middle of the summer period. It is important to choose the right site for landing. The soil must be permeable, since the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture. Soil reaction - alkaline or slightly acidic. Heavy and clay soils are not suitable for bearded iris.

Caring for the bearded iris includes:

• Watering only in dry weather;
• Sufficient light;
• Pruning old leaves at the end of summer;
• Shelter for the winter. It is especially necessary for tall varieties;
• Fertilizing three times a year: in spring (nitrogen fertilizers), during budding (potassium-phosphorus fertilizers), in autumn (potassium-phosphorus fertilizers). Also bearded iris responds well to the introduction of humus and compost.

Germanic

One of the favorite flowers of gardeners is the Germanic iris, planting and caring for which is similar to the bearded iris. It can be planted from spring to autumn. The soil should be permeable, slightly acidic or neutral. Top dressing - three times a year, watering only in drought. The video below shows the planting of German iris in pots, the video is not in Russian, but everything is clear.

Undersized

Low-growing (dwarf, curb) species - this is a form bearded irises. They differ only in the difference in growth. Their height does not exceed 40 cm, but on average they grow no higher than 20 cm. For framing flower beds and paths, for mixborders, border (undersized) irises, planting and caring for which is simple.

Features of planting and caring for dwarf irises:

• Plants should be planted in a sunny place, in nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic soil without stagnant moisture;
• When planting, it must be remembered that the root system of such an iris should be close to the surface of the soil, it does not need to be deeply buried;
• Feeding three times a year.

Thin-leaved

This is an easy-to-care culture. It is drought and frost resistant.

Features of planting and caring for thin-leaved iris:

• The plant needs watering only during the drought period;
• Planting from spring to autumn;
• Application of fertilizing according to the standard scheme;
• Sufficient sunlight.

If bouquets of irises were donated or they were cut with your own hands to decorate the apartment, then you will need to follow a few rules so that the plants stand in a vase longer. Caring for cut irises includes:

1. Daily change of water in a vase;
2. Periodic washing of the vase in hot water;
3. spraying plants;
4. Keeping in a cool place;
5. Distance from radiators and heaters.

Part 3. Complexities

Iris, like any other culture, can bring a lot of trouble to its owners. Usually the reason for this is improper care for them.

Diseases

The most common diseases in bearded and other iris species are viral and fungal infections. What should be the treatment and control of iris diseases?

Mosaic- this viral disease. It appears in the form of stripes and spots on the leaves. The carrier of the virus is the aphid.

To date, effective methods of treating viral mosaic have not been found, therefore, it is required to observe preventive measures:

1. Immediately remove infected seedlings;
2. Observe the irrigation regime, fertilize, and also treat the plant from insect pests and diseases. Suitable drugs such as "Aktellik", "Confidorm" and others).

bacterial rot found in spots Brown color on the leaves of the plant. The disease can be detected already in the spring after wintering. It will be necessary to remove the affected areas, then treating the places with a solution of potassium permanganate. If the disease has gone too far, then it is better to destroy the affected plants, and treat the soil with antibacterial agents.

The causes of bacterial rot are:

• Freezing of the root system;
• Excessive soil moisture;
• dense landings;
• Lack of calcium and phosphorus in the soil.

The material in the video below is about bacterial rot and how to deal with it.

Gray rot can affect either the stems and leaves, or the root system. The main reason is the stagnation of water in the soil. Therefore, you need to plant iris only on well-drained soil. The exception is marsh iris. Also, the cause may be a lack of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. It is required to treat the disease with fungicides, and if the plants are very affected, then it is better to destroy them.

Pests

The most common pests include:

1. scoops;
2. Iris fly;
3. thrips;
4. Medvedka;
5. Slugs.

scoops- this is an extremely dangerous pest for a flower. Firstly, they eat away the base of the peduncle, as a result of which the plant turns yellow and may even die, and, secondly, the activity of the scoop leads to the development of bacteriosis. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to treat the plant with karbofos.

Iris fly (iris flower girl) visually similar to an ordinary fly. Because of this pest, bud diseases develop. It feeds on the yet unopened buds of culture. As a result, the bud begins to rot. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to treat the iris with insecticidal preparations (Aktellik, Aktara) even at the stage of bud formation.

Iris buds infested with iris fly larvae.

About the iris fly and the fight against it - on video

thrips- very dangerous pests despite their miniature size. Initially, these pests settle on the leaves, which leads to their gradual drying and yellowing. Then they move on to the buds. Subsequently, the buds are damaged and do not open. You can treat with karbofos with the addition laundry soap. You can also use insecticidal preparations ("Aktellik", "Aktara").

Medvedka- a very common pest, especially in the southern regions of Russia. It can cause irreparable damage to irises. The pest damages the root system and bulbs. You can fight the bear by adding crushed eggshells soaked in vegetable oil to the soil. It will also be effective to fill the pest passages with soapy water or a solution of washing powder. Marigolds planted nearby help in the fight against the bear.

Slugs affect iris leaves, and are also a distributor of bacterial rot. They are harvested by hand, and the soil is also treated with superphosphate. For prevention, it is recommended to remove weeds around plants in time.

Problems

Often, iris owners face such problems:

• The appearance of spots on the leaves of brown or yellow color . The reason is waterlogging of the soil or frequent precipitation. Damaged leaves must be cut off. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to treat the culture with fungicides in the spring a month or two before flowering;
• If the flower blooms sparsely and sluggishly means it doesn't get enough sunlight. Also a possible reason is the excessive acidity of the soil;
• Wrinkles on leaves is a temporary phenomenon caused by bad weather conditions. Does not harm the plant;
• Suspension of flowering can be called: strong growth of the root system, soil depletion, freezing of flower buds, crop damage by pests and diseases, lack of watering in drought.

This is not all the difficulties in growing irises, we will be glad to see your other questions and comments.

Foreword

Irises - beautiful perennial flowers, otherwise called "cockerels" or "irises", are loved by many gardeners. These plants have an external resemblance to orchids, but are much more unpretentious. The color of the buds can be very different, including the entire color palette of the rainbow. Planting and caring for irises in the open field is simple, flowers do not require close attention when grown.

Description and history

Irises have countless flowers

It is believed that irises got their name in honor of the goddess of the rainbow Irida. According to legend, after Prometheus bestowed fire on people, a rainbow broke out and delighted with its beauty throughout the day. Beneath her, on the ground, flowers blossomed, not inferior to her in beauty.

Irises have been grown for over 2,000 years. cultivated plant and raw materials for medicinal and cosmetic preparations. Man has long noticed the property of this flower to excite sexual desire, so irises are also considered as a powerful aphrodisiac.

These plants belong to the iris (iris) genus and include more than 800 species. They are found naturally in Asia, Europe and North America. The most popular "bearded" varieties. These flowers are distinguished by a wide variety of colors and bud shapes, able to decorate any bouquet.

Irises have a powerful root system, represented by pineal and filiform roots. Distinctive features of the plant:

• flat, elongated and acute-angled leaves, collected in fan umbrellas and located in close proximity to the root;
• lack of stem leaves;
• flowers are solitary, but some varieties form several inflorescences;
• peduncle with 6 petals, three of which are slightly inverted and lowered down, the remaining three form the central part of the bud;
• after flowering is completed, a fruit is formed, which is a three-celled seed box.

Types of irises

The abundance of varieties and colors strikes the imagination of even experienced flower growers.

At the moment, there are descriptions of more than 250 species of irises. It is not easy for an ordinary gardener to understand this variety. Therefore, it is customary to focus on a classification that includes up to 15 groups of the most popular and spectacular plants. All of them are distinguished by the presence or absence of pubescence, brush-like outgrowths at the base of the lower petals. On this basis, it is customary to distinguish two main categories of irises:

• bearded;
• beardless.

This classification was introduced in 1783 by Carl Linnaeus. According to her, there are 8 groups of "bearded" species:

1. High.
2. Border.
3. Miniature tall.
4. Intermedia.
5. Standard dwarfs.
6. Miniature dwarfs.
7. Aryl.
8. Arilbreds.

Beardless types:

• Siberian;
• Spuria;
• Japanese;
• Louisiana;
• Californian;
• Species hybrids;
• Interspecific hybrids.

At Russian society iris growers (ROI) have a different opinion. Here it is customary to consider only rhizomatous plants as irises. While there are also bulbous ones, recognized by foreign breeders as one of the types of irises. These are varieties such as:

• iridodictium;
• xifium;
• Juno.

No less popular are hybrids obtained by crossing varieties of xifium. Depending on the country in which they are bred, hybrids are called "Dutch", "Spanish", "English".

Attention! The Russian classification is also different in that it is customary to consider a group as a class, in which there are at least 100 plants, most of whose characteristics are the same.

The American Iris Society (AIS) has adopted a different classification of irises, which is considered international. According to her, it is customary to distinguish 15 garden classes listed by Carl Linnaeus.

bearded

It is curious that the flower is also used in cooking to add flavor to desserts.

Bearded - the largest group of irises. It includes up to 50 species of these flowers and at least three thousand hybrids. All these plants share several characteristics:

• the thickness of the root, located at a shallow depth parallel to the soil surface, is not less than 1.5 cm;
• perennial;
• green leaves with a waxy matte sheen;
• sword-shaped leaves;
• branched peduncle.

All bearded irises are distinguished by the height of the peduncle. In accordance with this parameter, several groups with characteristic features plants of the same type.

Bearded irises differ in timing and duration of flowering. Seed manufacturers report this with a special abbreviation. It is applied to the packaging.

1. VE - very early.
2. E - early.
3. ME - medium early.
4. ML - medium late.
5. L - later.
6. VL - very late.

Alberta

Hardy and winter-hardy plant with large bright purple flowers. Height - up to 60 cm. Flowering period - from the third decade of May. grows in natural conditions, in culture it is used to decorate borders, garden plots, mixborders.

Iris Alberta bears fruit in August

leafless

Widely distributed in the European part of Russia. Prefers loamy and rocky soils. The peculiarity of the plant is that its leaves grow later than the peduncles. Flowering period - the third decade of May-first half of June. Flowers saturated purple, up to 70 mm in diameter.

Leafless iris will please flowering only at the very end of spring

Pale

Tall winter-hardy plant with a branched peduncle. Leaves xiphoid, matte, with a gray coating. Flowering period - June. The root of the plant has medicinal properties. Preferred soils are light with an acidity of 6–7.8 pH. It is one of the dominant progenitor forms, widely used in breeding for breeding hybrids.

Pale iris is best grown in the south

Dwarf

It grows in the European part of the Russian Federation, up to the Urals. Listed in the Red Book, bred in 4 reserves. Prefers loams and soils with neutral acidity. The flowering period is the third decade of April-the first decade of May. Peduncles can be of different colors. Yellow, red, purple tones predominate.

When flowering, such irises are distinguished by an abundance of buds.

Motley

Differs in high winter hardiness, prefers slightly acidic soils. Height - 30–40 cm, diameter of flowers 30–50 cm. Feature plants - lack of aroma. It has powerful roots 10–20 mm thick, located at a depth of 8–10 cm. Hardy, prefers shaded places. The flowering period is the third decade of April-the first decade of May.

Variegated iris must be reliably protected from the winds

Popular types of bulbous

There are also many bulbous varieties

Iridodictium

Iridodictium needs to be transplanted no more than once every five years

An early flowering plant, the shortest among the bulbs. The height of the peduncle does not exceed 15 cm. At the base of the stem there are 3-4 pointed dark green leaves. The flowers are blue-violet, have a pleasant aroma. The plant is winter-hardy, does not require shelter for the winter. Popular hybrids of this species:

• Katharina Hodgkin;
• Pauline;
• Joyce;
• Harmony;
• Jenin;
• Natasha.

Dutch

Xifium flowers live up to 7 days, which is longer than other varieties of irises

It has a second name: "xifium". It is considered the most fastidious, demanding on the quality of the soil and the degree of illumination. But most preferred by Russian gardeners for a wide color scheme and long flowering period. The bulb is pear-shaped and can be stored long time at room temperature. Plants of this species are characterized by low winter hardiness, with frosts below -10 ° C they can die. Therefore, it requires shelter for the winter under a layer of mulch.

The most popular varieties:

• Depeche Mode;
• Black dragon;
• Cupid Father;
• Fruit cocktail;
• Forge Fire.

Planting irises in open ground

Decide on the timing of flowering you need before planting

The procedure for growing irises depends on what type of plant: rhizomatous or bulbous. They have different breeding and planting methods.

Bulbs prefer nutrient-rich soils, warm and well-lit places. It is more difficult for these plants to choose a good place for growing. Rhizomes are more unpretentious. They also grow well in thin soils. But they also need plenty of sunlight and warmth.

The choice of planting material for rhizomatous varieties

The success of growing irises directly depends on how well the planting material is chosen. If it is a rhizomatous plant, it is propagated by dividing the bush. In this case, the choice of planting material consists of several stages.

1. Choose a parent plant. He should be aged 1-2 years, without signs of any disease.
2. They dig up a flower, not forgetting that its roots are quite branched. Therefore, the pitchfork is immersed in the ground at a distance of 30-40 cm from the base of the stem.
3. Take out the root and carefully clean it from the ground.
4. Carefully examine the rhizome. If there are pest-affected or decaying places, they are removed by cutting off with a sharp knife.
5. Carefully divide the root into two parts, starting from the base of the stem.
6. Processed crushed charcoal or immersed for 10-15 minutes in a strong solution of potassium permanganate.
7. Dry in the sun for an hour.

In this way he receives two divisions. This is the name of a part of the mother plant. Best time obtaining planting material of rhizomatous irises - the period of completion of flowering, late July-early August.

The choice of bulbous species

Planting bulbs can be purchased or grown independently

Bulbous varieties of irises require a different approach to the choice of planting material. A good bulb must meet several requirements.

1. Be dense.
2. No signs of rot.
3. Have a rounded shape without lateral outgrowths.

Planting material is obtained independently or bought in stores for gardeners. In the first case, proceed as follows:

• after flowering ends, dig up the plant;
• separate the bulb, and if there is, children;
• cleaned of soil using a napkin or rag;
• immerse for several minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
• taken out and dried in the sun for several days.

Attention! If the bulbs are left in the soil, they can be affected by fungus or rot.

Planting material is stored in a dark, cool place until September.

Time and methods of landing

All irises love good lighting.

Bulbous varieties are planted in late September-early October. This is a simple task, but you need to know all the nuances of its implementation. The place should be protected from the wind, sunlit for most of the day, with low groundwater.

1. Prepare a hole with a depth of 15–20 cm.
2. Immerse the bulb in it. Do not press it down and do not twist it.
3. At a distance of 3–4 diameters of the planted bulb, the next hole of the same depth is formed.
4. Plant the next bulb.
5. Bury the holes, lightly tamping the ground.
6. Watered.
7. Cover the landing site with a thick (10–20 cm) layer of mulch.

Advice! Bulbs can be planted not in holes, but in grooves 15–20 cm deep. When planting, they maintain the same distance: 3–4 bulb diameters.

Rhizome varieties are planted immediately after dividing the bush. For these plants, you can choose any place. But it is important that groundwater does not come close to the soil surface. Iris does not grow well in wetlands. The best soil for them - loam.

Choose a not very wet area for planting flowers

Rhizome varieties are more resistant to wind and frost. In most regions do not require shelter for the winter. The optimal planting time is 15–30 days after flowering is complete.

Planting rhizomatous flowers consists of several stages.

1. Dig a hole 20-30 cm deep.
2. At the bottom, a pile of soil is poured 5–10 cm high.
3. The flower is immersed in the hole so that the base of the root is at the central point of the hill at the bottom. The upper part of the rhizome should rise 1-2 cm above the soil level.
4. Straighten the roots along the slopes of the hills of soil.
5. Gradually pour earth into the hole and lightly press it against the roots. In this way, the hole is completely filled with soil.
6. A mound of earth is formed around the part of the root protruding above the soil surface and compacted.
7. Water the plant abundantly.

Caring for rhizomatous irises

The plant during overflow is affected by root rot

Rhizome irises respond well to care. These plants do not like excess moisture, so watering should be moderate. During the dry season, the amount of water is increased.

Caring for rhizomatous varieties:

• water the plant immediately after planting;
• next watering - after 3 days;
• do not allow the growth of weeds in the planting area, remove them in a timely manner;
• during the engraftment period (15–30 days after planting), the earth is gently loosened, providing access to oxygen to the roots;
• subsequently, rhizomatous irises do not need to loosen the soil.

Mineral fertilizers are applied three times:

• at the beginning of the growing season;
• during the flowering period;
• one month after flowering.

The most common disease of this species of irises is root rot. The main reason for its occurrence is waterlogging of the soil. If the plant begins to wither, its leaves turn yellow and flowering is short-lived, root damage can be suspected. In this case, proceed as follows:

• carefully remove the roots to the surface using a pitchfork;
• remove the affected areas;
• healthy people are treated with Hom.

bulbous care

Caring for bulbs is as simple as caring for rhizomes. Most unpretentious variety bulbous - "Juno". But it also requires compliance with the rules of care, which are as follows:

• watering is rare, but plentiful;
• sufficient amount of sunlight;
• regular pest control;
• thorough weeding.

Tall varieties are tied up using pegs and rag ribbons. Mineral fertilizers are applied at the same frequency as when caring for rhizomatous varieties.

Possible diseases and pests, their treatment and prevention

Irises do not tolerate waterlogging of the soil and most flower diseases are associated with this factor.

Wet root rot (bacteriosis)

Overflow causes bacteriosis

With this disease, the root system and the lower part of the stem are affected. The first sign of plant infection is yellowing of the leaves. Pathogen - bacteria groups Erwinia aroidea, Pseudomonas iridis. Contribute to damage:

• freezing of roots;
• waterlogging of the soil;
• the presence of weeds.

Control measures:

• thinning of landings;
• weed removal;
• arrangement of drainage at the site of growth in order to drain ground and surface waters;
• treatment of the soil and affected areas of the plant with doxycilin at the rate of 5 mg per 1 liter of water.

heterosporiosis

Feed your flowers with phosphorus-containing preparations

The causative agent is the fungus Fusarium oxysporum. The disease begins with the appearance of brown spots on the stems and leaves, followed by rotting of the roots. Causes:

• increased soil moisture;
• lack of phosphorus.

Control measures:

• removal of the affected parts of the plant;
• soil drainage;
• treatment with Fitosporin and Hom preparations in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Gray rot

Feed your plants with nitrogen fertilizers

The disease affects the underground and aboveground parts of the plant. The first signs are the appearance of a gray matte coating on the buds, stem and leaves. Reasons for development:

• hypothermia of the plant;
• defeat by the fungus Botrytis cinerea;
• high humidity.

Control measures:

• application of nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 20–30 g per 1 m2;
• treatment with fungicides ("Topsin", "Profit", "Oxyx") in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

The best ways to feed

For spring feeding in mid-March-early April, choose any of the proposed methods.

1. Nitrogen and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in proportion at the rate of 9–12 g per 1 m2.
2. Ammonium nitrate - 20–30 g / m2.
3. Potassium sulfate - 20-30 g / m2.

In mid-June, the soil around the plants is sprinkled with wood ash. 2-4 weeks after the completion of flowering, superphosphate (50-60 g / m 2) or potassium salt (20-30 g / m 2) are added.

Storage of planting material

Rhizome irises are not stored, but planted immediately after the division of the bush. Bulbous plants dig out the flowering completion field, planting material is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dried and stored in a dark, cool place until September. Then planted in open ground.

Transplant and reproduction

Before planting seedlings, seeds must be stratified

All varieties of irises, both rhizomatous and bulbous, can be grown from seed. This is a long and troublesome process, not always ending in success: getting seedlings. The first stage is stratification (preparation) of seeds. Depending on the situation, it is performed in two ways. Manufacturers always indicate on the packaging the preferred method of preparing planting material.

Germination of seeds in an apartment:

1. A piece of clean cloth is placed at the bottom of a flat container (plastic container, saucer).
2. Wet it.
3. With tweezers or a toothpick, lay the seeds so that they are located separately from each other.
4. Pour some water so that the seeds are slightly immersed in it.
5. Close the container with a lid (loosely).
6. Put on the top shelf of the refrigerator and aged for a month.
7. Periodically add water.
8. Transfer the container to a place with a positive temperature and wait for the seeds to hatch.
9. Planting material is transplanted into the ground, lightly sprinkled with earth.
10. When the seedlings reach a height of 7–10 cm, they are transplanted into open ground.

Another way to get seedlings:

1. During February, the seeds are hardened, gradually transferring them from a room with room temperature to a less warm one.
2. By the end of the month, the seeds should be in the basement or cellar with a temperature of up to + 5 ° C.
3. With the onset of a thaw, the seed is placed on a cloth, covered and placed in a plastic container.
4. Immerse the container in the snow.
5. With the onset of heat, they are taken out and transplanted into the ground.
6. Further actions are the same as when receiving seedlings in an apartment.

Video: How to plant irises in spring

If you know the features of growing rhizomatous and bulbous varieties of irises, they will always delight with lush flowering. Caring for these plants is easy and does not take much time.

Irises are charming plants that are a member of the genus of perennial rhizomatous plants of the Kasatikov family. For their proper cultivation, you should know when to plant a plant, how to prepare a place, how to care for irises and when to transplant. This and much more will be discussed below.

When to plant irises

• The generally accepted opinion regarding the time of disembarkation, determines that the most suitable time is the period immediately after flowering. The choice of this time allows the plants to get stronger before winter.
• However, it all depends on the conditions for the passage of autumn and spring in the region in which the flowers will be planted. If autumn or spring are extremely warm, then you can not rush to disembark. Landing is also possible in the summer.

Considering the time and date of disembarkation, the following points should also be highlighted:

1. Best time to drop off considered flowers - the first half of the day.
2. Timing should be chosen taking into account so that there is no strong wind or drafts.
3. If severe early frosts are foreseen in the region, then you should disembark at an early time.
4. Irises do not tolerate cold well immediately after planting. Therefore, you should choose warm days.

Site selection and soil preparation

When planting iris, attention should be paid to soil preparation. Soil preparation features include:

1. The plant in question is not recommended to be planted anywhere in the garden., despite the unpretentiousness of the iris to the conditions environment.
2. The area to be used for planting should be planned ahead of time, taking into account that the flowers in question do not like excessive amounts of water.
3. If groundwater has a high location point, then the soil should be drained.
4. Perennials do not bloom well if they receive little light. Therefore, it is preferable to choose a well-lit place.
5. It is recommended to raise the flower bed about 15 centimeters.
6. Fertilizers of mineral and organic type will provide the best conditions for the growth of iris.
7. Many do not recommend manure to be applied immediately before planting iris. This is best done a year before planting the iris. For a long time in the ground, useful trace elements will become part of the flower bed.
8. The preparation of the land itself consists in its thorough loosening. It is recommended to make a flower bed with a slight slope towards the south.

As can be seen from the list above, prepare the soil for planting such unpretentious plant as an iris does not cause any particular difficulties. When choosing fertilizers, you should pay attention to those that are recommended for perennials.

Planting irises

After choosing the most suitable time and preparing the soil, it will be possible to start planting iris. The features of planting the plant in question include the following:

1. A flower bud can be laid in the summer. This moment determines that before the onset of winter it is already formed and next spring and ready to give flowers in the summer.
2. When planting iris, it should be borne in mind that the most susceptible to cold plants of this genus cannot tolerate the effects of frost around -10 degrees Celsius. When exposed to such temperatures, flower buds may die.
3. The landing unit of the iris is considered to be a fan, layering, shoulder blade. It is the annual link of the rhizome, the length is 3 centimeters, the diameter of the planting unit is 1-2 centimeters.
4. Leaves are shortened by a third of the length, the roots should be about 10 centimeters long.

The above recommendations apply to landings in spring and summer. On the this moment the bud has not yet begun to tie, but the rhizome has already produced young links. Young links begin to actively develop only 14 days after planting. At the time of laying the flower bud, the iris is already well rooted.

When planting in autumn, it is recommended to choose buds that have already been laid, the length of which is about 6 centimeters, and the diameter is about 3 centimeters. Having provided favorable conditions, the flower will quickly take root and begin to bloom the very next year.

The success of the planting to a greater extent depends on the correct location of the rhizome in the ground. You can create a landing pit, taking into account the following recommendations:

1. How the plant will take root depends on the correctness location of the root system in the ground.
2. The hole should match the length of the root system, but be at the level of the soil that has been previously fertilized.
3. A small mound is created at the bottom of the created pit on which the location of the root system is held.
4. During planting, the seedling is pressed, and then covered with a layer of earth.
5. Iris leaf fan arrangement must be strictly vertical.
6. The poured earth from above is slightly compacted.
7. Immediately after planting, the iris should be watered.
8. Repeated watering is carried out after the next 3-5 days.
9. If the planting is carried out on a hot day, then the seedling should be shaded., as intense heat can impair the growth of iris at the very beginning of its planting.

Care after landing

Special attention should be paid to the plant immediately after planting. At this point, it is most vulnerable to environmental influences. The requirements for the care of iris are somewhat different from those for the care of other perennials.

The main points that relate to care after planting iris include the following:

1. It is necessary to periodically loosen the soil, as well as remove weeds that may appear near the iris.
2. Considered perennial plant may be affected by diseases and pests.
3. Timely watering should also carry out in case of severe drought.
4. Seasonal feeding is carried out in order to to prepare the plant for worse growing conditions.
5. For the period of wintering, it is recommended to cover one-year-old irises with foliage, and when spring comes, the shelter is removed. This is necessary in order to protect the plant that has not yet fully established itself from the effects of cold. Old plantings do not need to be covered with foliage for the winter.
6. The use of fertilizer for top dressing is not always a prerequisite for ensuring the best growing conditions. If the type of soil requires top dressing, then three types of fertilizers are used. As a rule, top dressing is carried out in early spring and during the ripening of buds, as well as a month after the flowering stage has passed.
7. In dry times, it is recommended to water in the evening. Do not allow water to get on the flowers and petals. After passing half of the summer, watering should be significantly reduced.
8. Flower stalks that have completely faded, it is recommended to cut closer to the base almost immediately.

Particular attention should be paid to the fight against diseases and pests, as they can harm the iris to a greater extent. Although the plant has a high resistance to diseases and pests, some exposure can lead to damage to the base of the leaves and the root system. It is recommended to avoid waterlogging the soil, as this will lead to rotting of the root system.

If it was not possible to avoid waterlogging of the soil and rotting of the root system, then it should be:

1. Dig up a bush.
2. Cut out the rotten parts of the root system.
3. After removing the affected areas, the bush should be placed in a special solution.
4. After soaking in a special solution, you can leave the root system for about 12 hours in an open place.

Another threat to the plant may be heterosporosis. A similar disease manifests itself quite often in the second half of summer. She appears brown spots on the leaves. The disease progresses very quickly. Recommendations for the treatment of the plant can be called cutting off the affected leaves and burning them. In order to help the iris, it must be treated with copper sulfate, which is created when calculating 5 liters per 50 grams of the drug.

Not many pests attack iris, but gladiolus thrips can be called the most dangerous. When exposed to the plant, the leaves become oppressed, after a while the wax coating is lost. You can get rid of the pest in question with a special chemical preparation, which is sold in many garden stores.

Another pest that attacks the iris is the scoop. They eat away the base of the peduncles - as a result, the peduncles turn yellow and the whole plant dies. This phenomenon can be avoided by spraying the plant at the beginning of the growing season with a 10% solution of karbofos. The frequency of spraying is 2 times with a week break.

Slugs can also affect irises. Most effective method Slug control can be called placing wet rags and burdock leaves between iris bushes. Slugs use wet rags and burdock leaves as cover. By collecting these leaves and rags, you can destroy the slugs. Another, more effective method of dealing with the pest in question is the use in the evening, in dry weather, of granulated metaldehyde at the rate of approximately 30 grams per 10 square meters of area.

When to transplant irises

• Repotting is recommended every 5 years. Compliance with this recommendation eliminates the possibility of expelling the root system to the outside. If the root system is open, then this can lead to a reduction in the abundant flowering of the plant.
• The ideal time for the transplant procedure becomes the end of August and the beginning of September.
• It should be transplanted only after flowering.
• In late autumn, it is not recommended to carry out the procedure in question. because the plant will not have time to take root.
• The main requirement can be called a transplant every 3-4 years. Siberian irises should be transplanted once every 10 years. If this condition is not met, then the plant degenerates and ceases to bloom, after some time, it begins to dry out.

Preparing for the winter

Often, special actions are not needed to prepare the plant for wintering. Despite the fact that initially irises were immune to environmental influences, recently irises are considered sissies. Some recommendations allow you to save the plant in the winter.

Growers throughout for long years empirically determined that low-growing irises best tolerate cold. An example is iridodictiums, whose height is approximately 15 centimeters. Dwarfs can also withstand exposure to low temperatures.

Wintering depends on proper planting and care of the flower. The plant should be well prepared for wintering. The main rules include:

1. When planting, you should choose a slightly elevated place to eliminate the possibility of water accumulation around the roots.
2. Bulbous irises after flowering should be kept in the most dry conditions.
3. Bulbs should be dug up only after all the leaves have dried.
4. Some cover the bush with dry leaves, which helps protect it from exposure to low temperatures.

Basic Mistakes

There are several reasons why the plant in question does not start flowering. Such errors include:

1. The main mistake is the wrong landing. It is this reason that leads to the main problems with flowering.
2. The second reason is that the plant becomes cramped. After passing 4-5 years, the bush needs to be replanted.
3. Iris loves a lot of light. If this is not provided, then the bush will not bloom.
4. Often the reason is that the soil is not suitable.
5. Non-compliance with the conditions of wintering.
6. Many do not protect iris from pests. Some of them can seriously harm the bush.

Many gardeners refuse the plant in question due to the fact that they consider the process of breeding them difficult. However, this is not at all the case. When taking into account some of the subtleties of growing iris, it is possible to significantly diversify a garden or yard at low cost.

Such subtleties include the following:

1. The rhizome of the bush grows in a horizontal direction. In this case, part of the root system is exposed, some roots come to the surface. Therefore, for the winter, you can sprinkle the roots with peat to prevent them from freezing.
2. Adding a lot of organic fertilizers is not recommended. Most suitable mineral, which are in liquid form.
3. It should be planted with a fan of leaves along, and not across the row.

It's hard to find a person who doesn't like irises. These unpretentious flowers do not require special care, which is why they are so loved by flower growers. I will tell you how to plant irises correctly. Iris is a perennial plant.

Easily tolerates wintering in open ground. Garden irises have two types of shoots: vegetative and generative. Vegetative shoots are an underground rhizome, which consists of annual links.

On these links, leaves are formed in the form of a fan. Generative shoots are flower stalks. On each peduncle, from one to eight, sometimes eleven flowers are formed, depending on the variety. Iris roots are filiform or cord-like, fibrous.

The roots of garden irises are able to improve soil structure. Garden irises reproduce both by seeds and vegetatively, that is, by dividing the rhizome. Irises are usually propagated by seeds only for hybridization.

With such a planting, the plant blooms only for 2 or even the third year. When propagated by division, garden irises bloom in the first year. In this way, both varietal and wild irises can be propagated.

Preparation of the rhizome for planting irises

For separation, choose a large, well-developed iris bush. We dig. We shake off the ground. The rhizome can be cut with a knife or a sharp shovel, or simply broken apart with your hands.

Each separated part must have a leaf bundle, and the part of the rhizome must consist of two annual links (one link is also possible). The roots must be shortened by 1/3, remove the old links.

The leaves of the plant must be cut in half, while completely removing the diseased and dry. Check the roots carefully. We cut out damaged, rotted places with a knife. After that, the rhizome should be disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes.

The rhizomes should be dried in the sun. We process all sections with a mixture of crushed coal and sulfur (in a ratio of 1: 1).

Planting irises

We prepare holes for planting irises. A small mound is made in the center. We put a rhizome on it, carefully straighten the roots on the sides.

Rhizomes are planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm. The distance between flowers should be approximately 50 cm.

Time of planting irises and transplanting irises

Transplantation of irises is carried out immediately after flowering ends. Or at the end of the growing season. At this time, the growth of leaves and roots resumes.

If you miss this moment, then the plants will not have time to take root and simply die. The best time for planting irises is the period from late August to early September. If the planting material was obtained later than this period, then it is better to plant the rhizomes in pots, which should be kept indoors at a temperature of 7-8 degrees.

These rhizomes will need to be planted in the ground in the spring. Garden irises that were planted at the end of summer bloom the following spring. The most magnificent flowering is in the second and third year.

Bud method of propagation of irises

With normal reproduction by division, from 3 to 7 new plants are obtained from the mother bush. With the bud breeding method, you can get 50 or more planting units. For reproduction, we choose a sufficiently developed plant.

We dig it, wash it from the ground and dry it. We cut the rhizome into 6-8 parts. Each part should have a kidney and one or two roots. The rhizome is best cut across.

We make grooves in the kidney, 5 cm deep. We put prepared pieces of rhizome in them next to each other. We fill the grooves with light loose soil. We water as needed.

The following year, you can already transplant new plants on permanent place. Cut rhizomes can be planted not in open ground, but in pick boxes. Reproduction by budding is best done at the end of July.

Propagation by sprouts

During flowering, we separate the sprouts without buds from the mother plant with a sharp knife, while capturing a piece of rhizome tissue. We plant these sprouts in a cold greenhouse in the shade. Spray as needed.

Rooting of sprouts occurs after 2-3 weeks. This method compares favorably with the rest in that it is possible to accurately determine the variety that we breed. Besides mother plant is not damaged. And almost 90% of the cuttings take root.

If you dream continuously blooming garden, then beautiful flowers - irises will help you fill the pause between early spring and summer plants. irises begin to bloom around the second decade of May, and finish their flowering in early July.

Bulbous irises, planting features. Site "Garden world"

If you skillfully select a variety of irises, then their flowering can last up to two months and throughout this time delight you with their unique beauty. So, you have decided to grow irises? Then you should know about some of the intricacies of handling them.

Soil preparation for planting irises

It is necessary to plan well the site for planting irises. If groundwater is at a high standing, then it is necessary to drain this place. Make sure that the place is sunny, as irises do not bloom well in the shade.

It is better to raise the flower bed on which you are going to grow irises by 15 cm. Depending on the condition of the soil in your area, it is necessary to apply mineral and organic fertilizers to it.

After the nutritional procedures have been done, the soil is loosened, dug up again with a pitchfork and a bed or flower bed is built with a slight slope to the south. It is not recommended to add manure to the soil immediately before planting irises; it is better to fertilize the soil with it a year before planting.

Irises can be grown in one place without transplanting up to 10 years(Siberian iris and Kaempfer's iris), hybrid - up to 5 years. Over the years, iris bushes grow very strongly, a large area will be required, otherwise they will lack nutrients in a limited space.

Planting irises

In the summer, irises form a flower bud, so that irises hibernate with already formed buds, from which new flowers will appear in the new season. In delicate varieties of irises, flower buds (and the rhizomes themselves) can die at a temperature of -7-10 ° C.

Irises should be planted after the end of their flowering, until their flower bud has had time to start, and new links at the rhizome have already grown. Separate these links from the plant with a knife, do not dig the bush itself.

landing unitiris(shoulder blade, layering, delenka, fan) is an annual rhizome link, the diameter of which is 1-2 cm and the length is 3 cm. Its leaves must be shortened by one third of the length, the roots should be cut, leaving 7-10 cm. The best time to plant irises is summer.

The roots on the young link are still in their infancy, and their active growth begins at the planting site after 7-14 days. By the time the flower bud begins to form, the cuttings will already be firmly rooted.

Summer planting takes 14 days in duration. If you want to plant irises in the fall, then choose plants with an already established flower bud, no more than 6 cm long and 2-3 cm in diameter, with well-developed roots. If you are lucky with the weather, then your plant will quickly take root and bloom the very next year.

Autumn planting period takes up to one and a half months. Try to time planting so that your plant has time to take root before the soil freezes. During planting, keep in mind that the rhizome of a properly planted iris is at soil level, and the leaf fan should remain vertical when slapped with the palm of your hand.

Based on the length of the roots, a landing hole of the required depth is dug. At the bottom of this hole, a small mound should be built, on which the roots are located. Lightly pressing the seedling, cover it with a layer of earth.

After that, it is necessary to water the plant, and after 3-5 days, water it a second time. Seedlings are best shaded if sunny days are too hot. For additional heating, it is better to place the delenka with leaves to the north side.

Iris Care

Iris seedlings need the same care as all others. perennials: removal of weeds (recommended by hands), timely loosening of the soil, seasonal top dressing, watering, treatment of diseases, pest control and the like. But in addition to all of the above, there are some features in the cultivation of irises that you need to know about so that your irises are healthy and do not stop blooming.

Year-old plantings of irises at the end of autumn must be well covered with foliage or pine spruce branches. In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, this shelter is removed.

Old plantings in the winter do not need shelter. In the spring, when the snow melts, turn with a pitchfork winter shelter, and as soon as the soil thaws, the shelter should be removed. The soil around the rhizome is raked.

Feeding irises with fertilizers As soon as the top layer of the earth dries up, the soil can be fertilized. After applying mineral fertilizers to the soil, it should be loosened, deepening by 4-5 cm. At the same time, try not to damage the roots of irises, because they are almost on the surface. Hybrid irises that have reached the age of 3-5 years fertilize:

• at the beginning of spring, mineral dressings from 2 parts of nitrogen, 1 part of phosphorus and 1 part of potassium; during the formation of buds with mineral top dressing from 3 parts of nitrogen, 1 part of phosphorus and 3 parts of potassium; a month after flowering with mineral dressing from 1 part of phosphorus and 1 part of potassium.

Such a triple top dressing will make your irises hardy and highly decorative. If you fertilize the soil when planting young irises, then in the summer it will no longer need it. If the plant lacks the necessary nutrients in a certain period, this adversely affects its growth and development. For garden iris, this period is the time when the second vegetative growth of new shoots occurs and when flower buds are laid on it.

If the plant is fertilized during this period, then next year it will bloom profusely. Soddy-podzolic medium loamy soil, well cultivated, is fertilized three times in one season with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 9-12 g. per 1 sq. m. If the soil is sandy, then the dose must be increased by 15-18 gr. per 1 sq. m. Do not overdo it with nitrogen, it can cause fattening of irises, this will lead to the fact that the iris bushes will have many powerful leaves, but there will be no flowering. Pest and disease control All plants need preventive protection against pests, it is important to pay attention to this when growing irises.

So that various pests do not start on your beautiful flowers, spray irises every 10-14 days, starting from the moment the leaves grow to 10 cm, with pesticides or malathion. After the leaves come out of the peduncle, spraying should be stopped. Some bearded irises in the summer can be observed plants that have weak leaf bundles, consisting of three to five leaves.

In such plants, there are problems with laying flower buds, so this plant will not bloom the next year. Healthy bearded irises have seven to nine leaves. Examine the plant carefully, especially the rhizomes.

If you find rot on them, then scrape it carefully and treat the plant. Cut and burn the leaves that have remained since last year, pests may remain in them.

When the flowering period begins for irises, remove all wilted flowers, and after flowering, all flower stalks. You can also calculate a healthy plant by the presence of a wax coating on the leaves. Irises that are not affected by thrips have an even layer of waxy coating.

Category: Iris Anna Kartashova for the site "Favorite Flowers" Image rights: DIY Garden magazine (December 1999). Flikr.com: roundapple, AlliesAdornments, abaranda, mylocorp, Tim McNally, SCSheola, mmatins, Scott Vining, wags2099, okiraku_diver, shutterbugMike, onelinecross, Tie Guy II, highsierramedia, Maia C", samo_samo, Hopefoote, Ambassador of the Wow, cawarfel , blythesocdcloset, Muchan5, Grammi H, JALimager, Gypsy Flores Photography, MidnightPics, nikname, anaivette64, Philosopher Queen, *LINNY *, aeschylus18917, Sir Frog, Jeff Wignall, bratjerm, cawarfel

53 comments on the article

The best time for planting irises is mid-July - the time when the plants fade, and they can be divided and transplanted without losing the decorative effect of the garden. However, you can do it in the spring. Before you decide how to plant irises in the spring, you need to seriously approach the choice. suitable place for this plant. The plot for irises should be:

• Sunny; Not waterlogged. Stagnation of melt water is unacceptable. It is desirable that in the area where it is planned to plant flowers, groundwater should lie no closer than 1 m; With neutral or slightly acidic soils, preferably light sandy or loamy.

If you want to get healthy plants that please abundant flowering for many years, and decided to plant irises correctly in the spring, then it is necessary to dig and fertilize the selected area no later than two weeks before planting the divisions. This time is required for soil shrinkage, since irises do not develop well if their rhizome is deeply buried (and this is exactly what happens if the plant is planted in freshly dug soil).

It is very good if the flower bed is raised by 15-20 cm. You can find the most spectacular varieties of irises if you look in the catalog. These flowers are able to turn the garden into a real paradise for the entire first half of summer. You can achieve continuous flowering of iridaria from mid-May to mid-July by choosing varieties with different terms flowering. Before planting, you need to decide how to feed the irises in the spring. The following fertilizers are applied to the site selected for planting, based on 1 square meter of area:

• Organic fertilizer in the form of humus, 8-10 kilograms; 2-3 cups of wood ash; The same amount of simple superphosphate.

Under no circumstances is it recommended to use fresh manure, as it causes root rot, and the plant may die. Some gardeners, even when introducing humus, try not to mix it with the soil, but to bring it under the plants, to a depth of 20-30 cm, in order to prevent root rot. Irises will grow poorly and bloom poorly on acidified soils.

If the land on your site is exactly like this, then before planting flowers, for 2 weeks, it will be useful to add dolomite flour to the soil on the site prepared for planting, at the rate of 1 cup per 1 square meter. spring planting irises, they are unlikely to bloom in the same year. The optimal time is from July to September.

If you plant irises in the spring, then you will see the results of your labors only next May. And the plant will demonstrate all its beauty only in the third year.

Rate the article

Irises for the beauty of the flower are often called garden orchids. These are perennial plants that delight with abundant flowering with minimal care. Propagated by seeds and division of the rhizome.

One of the questions of beginner flower growers is the question: how to plant irises, and what place to choose for planting?

How to prepare the soil for irises?

Planting irises can be done from April (if you buy rhizomes in a store) until mid-August (when flowering ends). First of all, you need to choose a well-lit place for landing.

In the absence of such, you can choose a light penumbra. Irises love light, slightly acidic soil, which must be dug up before planting. To lighten the soil, you can add sand and peat, and a small amount of wood ash or lime will also not hurt. The soil for growing irises must be well-drained.

It is desirable that the flower bed on which irises will grow is 15 cm above ground level. The soil must be nutritious. You can pre-apply mineral and organic fertilizers.

After fertilizing, the soil must be loosened, dug up again with a pitchfork and a flower bed should be built, slightly inclined to the south. Experienced gardeners recommend not applying manure right before planting irises. If such a fertilizer was applied this year, it is better to postpone the planting of irises until next spring. Irises are loved because they do not need an annual transplant.

They can perfectly grow in the same place from 5 to 10 years. Over such a long period of time, the bushes, of course, grow strongly, and they need to be seated.

Rules for planting irises

It is important not only where, but also how to plant irises. Here you need to follow certain rules. If you plant irises too deep, the growth and development of the plant may be stunted, and if not deep landing a powerful plant simply will not stay in the ground.

For proper planting, it is desirable to make 2 trenches with a mound between them. A rhizome should be placed on this mound, and the roots straighten out along the trench, which is then filled with soil.

As a result, the irises should be about 50 cm apart with the rhizome at a depth of about 3 cm. The ideal time for planting irises is summer. It is in the summer that flower buds are laid, and by the onset of winter cold, these will already be mature plants that can overwinter and delight with their flowers in the spring. Parts of the rhizome of an annual plant are usually planted.

The leaves are cut by a third, the roots are shortened so that no more than 10 cm remain. take root. When planting your irises, make sure that the rhizome is level with the soil and that the leaves remain upright even after smoothing with the palm of your hand.

Iris seedlings are planted at a distance of 20-40 cm from each other. After planting, irises need deep and infrequent watering. The second watering of seedlings should take place 3-5 days after planting.

Seedling care

The basic care of iris seedlings is no different from the care of other perennial garden plants. It is necessary to regularly remove weeds, loosen the soil, water, fertilize, fight diseases.

In addition, there are some features in the care of iris seedlings, the knowledge of which will help grow healthy flowers in your area. To make it easier for young seedlings to endure winter frosts, they are covered with leaves towards the end of autumn. In early spring, after the snow melts, such a shelter is removed.

Only young seedlings need such shelter. Older irises winter quietly even without additional shelter. After the soil dries out a little, fertilizers can be applied. Contribute mineral fertilizers and loosen the soil, trying not to damage the roots.

Do not forget about possible pests. If you notice any pests on your irises, spray them every two weeks with special pesticides.

But when the first leaves appear, spraying is stopped. These simple rules will help you plant and grow on your garden plot these amazing flowers. BUT proper care will be the key to excellent decorative qualities and long flowering.

– 2nd part

Iris flowers - description

Irises are rhizomatous plants. Cord-like or filiform roots grow on the rhizome. Peduncles (one or more) annual. The leaves are flat, xiphoid, thin, two-row, sometimes linear, with a waxy coating.

They are collected in fan bundles at the base of the peduncle, there are almost no stem leaves. The flowers of irises are solitary, sometimes in small inflorescences, large, often fragrant, distinguished by an intricate elegant shape and are painted in a wide variety of colors and their combinations.

The flower has six petals (actually these are perianth lobes). The three outer lobes are slightly turned downwards, and they usually differ in color from the upper lobes, which, fused at the bottom, form a tube.

Irises bloom from May to July, two or three flowers bloom simultaneously from one to five days. The fruit of the iris is a three-celled capsule.

Types and varieties of irises

Bearded irises.

Root irises according to the shape of the flower of botany are divided into bearded and non-bearded. Bearded irises, so called because of the shaggy hairs on the petals, have their own classification (tall, medium tall, border, standard medium tall, small-flowered medium tall, binding medium tall, standard dwarf, miniature dwarf, table, arilbreds, arils and arilbreds, non-aryl-like arilbreds, arils and aryl-like arylbreda). But this classification is for scientists, for amateur flower growers, they are all just bearded irises of different sizes.

Germanic iris.

In culture, there are hundreds of varieties of tall bearded iris, which also exists under the name Germanic iris. Germanic iris is the most common type of bearded iris. Here are some popular varieties that will brighten up any garden: Baltic Sea - heavily ruffled deep blue irises with blue beards, Bewilderbest - ruffled creamy burgundy red with stripes and touches of yellow and white color, Acoma - sky blue-ivory with lavender border, very popular with Americans.

Unbearded irises

- (generalizing conditional name) include the following species: Siberian iris, Japanese iris, spuria iris, Louisiana iris, California iris, marsh iris and other irises (specific and interspecific). We will tell you about the most popular species in our latitudes:

Siberian iris

Whose natural color varies from blue to dark purple, although today about 1000 varieties with different colors have already been bred, for example, white irises Snow Queen; Imperial Opal 80 cm high, pink lavender, flowers up to 10 cm in diameter; iris yellow with a white border Batts and Suga. There is only one drawback - the Siberian iris is devoid of aroma;

Japanese iris

(aka iris xiphoid, aka iris Kempfler) with orchid large flowers up to 25 cm in diameter, odorless. Japanese breeders bred multi-petal and terry garden form Japanese iris, which is called hana-shobu. Unfortunately, this species is not frost-resistant, so flower growers are recommended varieties bred specifically for our latitudes: "Nessa-No-Mai" - purple and white, flowers - up to 23 cm in diameter; "Solveig" - a delicate light lilac iris, "Vasily Alferov" ink-colored non-double iris;

Iris spuria

very elegant, similar to the bulbous iris xifium, but much larger. In addition, iris spuria is frost-resistant and drought-resistant. Of the most beautiful: Lemon Touch - lacy yellow-lemon with a darker golden signal, high - 1 m; Transfiguration - the same high iris from dark purple to blue-violet with a bronze signal; Stella Irene - purplish black with a small gold signal, 90 cm high.

Iris marsh

or false iris. This species stands apart because it is very different from other species in that it grows only in moist soil. In nature, it has flowers of yellow hues; in culture, marsh iris is used to decorate artificial reservoirs.

Popular varieties are "Golden Queen" with yellow flowers, "Flore Pleno" - a terry variety, "Umkirch" - pink flowers. By color, iris varieties are divided into:

• - one-color (the same color of all iris lobes); - two-tone (lower and upper lobes different shades of the same color); - bicolor (lower lobes of one color, upper lobes of another); - variegata (lower lobes are red-brown, upper lobes are yellow); - amena (upper part is white); - bordered or plikata (contrasting border or on the lower lobes , or at all); - iridescent (smooth transition from one shade to another).

Growing iris - features

Many hobbyists refuse to breed irises, believing that this is a very difficult process. In fact, growing irises is by no means tedious or as time-consuming as it seems. You just need to know some of the subtleties that distinguish the care of these beautiful flowers.

Firstly, the peculiarity of irises is that their rhizomes grow horizontally and often become bare when they come to the surface. Therefore, irises in winter must be sprinkled with earth and peat so that they do not freeze out. In the spring, this coating is carefully removed.

Secondly, irises love to move around, and in one year they can shift their location to the side by several centimeters. To make the rows look evener, you need to plant irises with a fan of leaves along, and not across the row.

Thirdly, you need to plant the bearded iris on the sand: sand is poured into the bottom of the hole and the iris root is spread over it. With a deep planting, the iris will either disappear or not bloom. Fourth, don't feed the irises organic fertilizers they don't like them.

The best type of top dressing is mineral fertilizers in liquid form.

Planting irises

When and where to plant irises.

There is a generally accepted opinion that irises should be divided and transplanted immediately after flowering, so that they have time to take root before winter. But if autumn is warm and long in your area, you can take your time with a transplant.

In fact, irises can be planted in spring, autumn, and summer after flowering. The main thing is not to forget to replant irises every 3-4 years, and Siberian irises - at least once every ten years, otherwise they degenerate, grow and stop blooming. Bearded irises should be planted on slopes or hills well lit in the first half of the day, protected from drafts so that there is an outflow of melt water and good drainage.

Swamp and Siberian irises, on the contrary, love moist soil. But both those and other irises love rich soil, and if the soil on your site does not meet this requirement, add oily garden soil or compost to the soil in the spring before planting, fertilize it with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

If the soil is acidic, add dolomite flour, chalk or wood ash. If the site is loam, add peat and sand, if, on the contrary, the site is sandy, add clay soil.

For disinfection before planting, spill the area with a fungicide and treat with herbicides from possible weeds. Do not use manure to fertilize the area.

Planting irises in spring.

Planting and caring for irises require some knowledge, but not as much effort as it seems to beginner growers. Planting material, if it was stored for the winter or was bought in a store, it is better to treat it with growth stimulants such as Ecogel or Zircon before planting.

Long roots should be carefully trimmed, rotted places removed, and the root should be held for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Irises are planted as follows: sand is poured into a shallow hole, a bearded iris rhizome is laid horizontally on top, the roots are straightened, covered with soil so that the upper part of the rhizome remains above the level, and watered well.

If you bury the entire rhizome, you can provoke its decay. Beardless irises, on the contrary, need to be deepened a few centimeters and, in addition, mulched to preserve moisture with fallen needles or peat. The distance between irises should be at least half a meter.

Planting irises in autumn.

Irises are planted in spring in the same way as in autumn, or rather in late summer, namely after flowering. This usually happens from August to the end of September, although the sooner you plant, transplant or transplant irises, the more certain that they will take root.

It is necessary to dig up an iris bush with a pitchfork, divide it into annual links with a leaf spatula, carefully shorten the cord-like roots, cut out damaged or rotted places, disinfect for a couple of hours in a dark pink potassium permanganate solution, then dry in the sun for 4-5 hours. Planting irises is carried out in a way already known to you. The distance between low-growing irises is 15 cm, medium-sized - 20 cm, high - 50 cm.

Iris Care

How to care for irises in the garden.

Love for warmth and light is the main feature of irises. Concerning glaze, then it is important to strictly monitor the amount of moisture received by plants precisely in the budding phase. At this time, watering should be regular and sufficient.

In general, irises need to be watered only when the soil near the roots becomes very dry. As for top dressing, then in most cases it will be sufficient to fertilize the soil during the spring preparation of the site. But if you think that plants need nourishment, then it is appropriate in the form of a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers applied under the root during growth, but it is absolutely impossible to fertilize irises during flowering. You will have to fight weeds throughout the growing season.

weeding carried out manually, since the horizontally developing root system of irises is very close to the surface, and you can accidentally disturb it while working with a chopper. Occasionally, you still need to loosen the soil, but you need to do this very carefully, trying not to damage the roots. And one more thing: do not be lazy to remove wilted flowers, otherwise they can become a breeding ground for pests.

Diseases and pests of irises.

The more elegant and colorful the iris variety in the flower bed, the higher the likelihood of it being affected by diseases and pests. The main condition for the health of your plants is compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology of the species.

In addition, it is necessary to monitor the "well-being" of irises throughout the growing season in order to see the problem in time and be able to eliminate it. If the plant is affected by fusarium or another type of rot, the delay in death is similar: you must immediately remove and destroy the diseased specimen and be sure to shed the rest of the irises along the roots and under the root with a two percent solution of foundationol.

Use this drug as a prophylactic treatment of rhizomes before planting, then the risk of disease will be reduced. As a preventive measure against spotting of all kinds, spraying of irises with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture is used. Of the pests, cutworm irises are most often affected, eating away the bases of peduncles, as a result of which they turn yellow and die.

To avoid this problem, you need to spray the irises with a ten percent solution of karbofos at the beginning of the growing season twice with a weekly interval. They attack irises and gladiolus thrips, from which photosynthesis is disturbed in the leaves of plants, they turn brown and dry out.

Iris buds affected by thrips become ugly and discolor. The risk of infection with thrips is especially high in dry summers.

You can fix the problem with the help of karbofos, as in the case of the scoop, or by spraying the plants with a strained ten-day infusion of 400 g of shag with the addition of 40 g of grated laundry soap. Slugs can become pests of irises.

To get rid of them, spread wet rags or burdock leaves between the iris bushes that the slugs use as a hiding place, then gather them together with the slugs and destroy them. There is another way to deal with slugs: in dry weather, early in the morning or in the evening, scatter granular metaldehyde over the area at the rate of 30-40 g per 10 m2.

Irises after flowering

If you are not going to plant your irises this year, then it is best to cut the flower stalks after flowering is over. If the leaves start to turn yellow, you can cut off the yellowness by making the tip of the leaf semicircular - it looks very pretty, and your iris will still decorate the flower bed, and its rhizome will gain nutrients for growth and flowering next year.

If the autumn is warm, the irises may bloom again. When the leaves finally wither, cut them at a height of 10-15 cm and burn them to destroy possible eggs of pests or pathogens. Before the onset of cold weather, sprinkle the exposed roots of irises with earth, mulch the area with a layer of sand or peat 8-10 cm thick.

If there is a possibility of severe or prolonged frosts, cover the area with dry foliage or spruce branches. If the winter is snowy, the irises will not need shelter.

Iris storage

If you bought or dug up bearded iris rhizomes in the fall and want to keep them until spring, the most the best place for their storage - a cold dry room. Put well-dried roots in a box and take them out to the balcony or loggia.

You just need to pre-wrap each root in paper, cloth or pour them in a box with dry sawdust or dry peat. All other types of irises are moisture-loving, therefore The best way to save the iris root until spring is to plant it in a flowerpot, after cutting off the long roots, disinfecting it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and drying it after that. The root is immersed in the ground not deep, lightly sprinkled with earth on top. In the spring, the sprouted root, together with an earthy clod, is planted in the ground.