How to grow bulbous flowers at home. Bulbous home flowers: a variety of species

What is forcing? These are agricultural practices used to get vegetables, fruits or flowers at off-season times for these plants, that is, forcing technology allows you to get flowering not at the traditional time, but, for example, by some date or important event. According to the timing of flowering, forcing is divided into early (forcing for the New Year), middle (January, February) and late (March, April).

What flowers are planted for distillation

Forcing is carried out in autumn and winter flowering shrubs, for example, lilacs, as well as bulbous plants: small-flowered daffodils, hyacinths, some varieties of tulips and lilies, as well as crocuses, muscari, scills, pushkinias and chionodoxes. In winter, in addition to the crops already mentioned, rhododendrons and azaleas are used for distillation, and in spring - auratum and regale lilies. Flowers such as lilies of the valley, lilies and lilacs can bloom with the help of certain technologies. all year round. Bulb forcing depends on the quality and condition of the planting material. The most important requirement for forcing plants is that they come out of dormancy, which of course they are forced to do.

Forcing tulips by March 8

Tulip bulbs for forcing

Each type of distillation involves the use of certain varieties of culture. For example, forcing tulips for the New Year requires planting bulbs of one variety, and for spring forcing, completely different varieties of tulips are needed. By March 8 (in terms of terms, this is a medium-late distillation), the varieties London, Diplomat, Vivex, Parade, Kees Nelis and Eric Hofsier are usually grown. Despite the fact that tulips are easily forcing, it is necessary to start preparing their bulbs for this procedure in the spring: tulips are not allowed to bloom by plucking or cutting buds. However, plants need to be watered and fertilized regularly so that the bulbs accumulate the maximum amount of nutrients in the ground during the growing season. Then the bulbs are dug up and stored in strict accordance with the rules. At home, it is not easy to meet all the requirements for storing bulbs intended for forcing, so it is better for beginner flower growers to purchase planting material in well-established garden centers. You want healthy, large and dense extra class bulbs with a diameter of 40 millimeters or more, as well as bulbs of the first and second cuts with a diameter of 30 to 40 mm. The weight of planting material intended for forcing should not be less than 25 g. Before planting, the bulbs are pickled in a solution of a fungicide or potassium permanganate.

When to plant tulips for distillation

Forcing tulips by March begins in early October. As a substrate, you can use peat, garden soil, sand, perlite or sawdust: the soil must be breathable and moisture-absorbing, so experienced flower growers prefer rotted sawdust. Greenhouse land is not suitable for forcing, as it can store pathogens and pest eggs. For planting tulips for distillation, you can use pots, boxes or containers with legs, and even beautiful ceramic flowerpots.

Forcing tulips at home

Fill the container 2/3 with the substrate, lightly press the bulbs into the substrate, placing them at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from each other, and sprinkle the bulbs with soil so that they are completely submerged or that only the tops stick out. Do not try to push as many bulbs as possible: in crowded tulips, flower stalks may be bent and many blind buds may appear.

A container with bulbs is placed in a cellar or basement, where the temperature is kept within 9 ºC. It is not scary if it gradually decreases: the technology assumes a lower limit from 2 to 0 ºC. They contain distillation in conditions of humidity of at least 80%, otherwise the buds will be small and the petals will be twisted. At higher air humidity, mold may form.

Depending on the variety of tulips, the rooting of the bulbs takes from two to three weeks. In early February, when the sprouts rise to a height of 5 cm, the container with tulips is transferred to a bright room with a temperature of 18 ºC. You can adjust the timing of the forcing by changing the temperature in the room: if the buds begin to form too early, you need to lower the temperature by a couple of degrees, and if the plant is late in the formation of buds, increase the temperature.

To achieve a successful result, the illumination must be at least 1000lux, otherwise there may be a high percentage of blind buds. For artificial illumination, phytolamps or fluorescent lamps with a power of 40 W / m² are used.

If suddenly the flowers appeared before the scheduled time, cut them off after they have already colored, but before they have opened, put them in water with snow and keep at a temperature of 2 ºC.

Distillation of hyacinths

Distillation of hyacinths by March 8

Forcing hyacinths on March 8, depending on the variety, usually takes 3-4 months. Hyacinth bulbs are dug up after the leaves of the plant have completely dried. For forcing, you will need firm, healthy bulbs about 5 cm in diameter, which should be stored for two months in a dry place at a temperature of 25-28 ºC, at which time a new flower bud is formed in them. In September, hyacinth bulbs intended for forcing are placed in the bottom drawer of the refrigerator before planting.

If you don’t have your own hyacinths or they are not suitable for forcing, planting material can be purchased at the store, just be sure to explain to the seller why you are buying it.

Distillation of hyacinths at home

The forcing of hyacinth bulbs by March 8 starts in early November. The diameter of the dish depends on the number of bulbs you intend to plant, and the height must be at least 15 cm. A layer of drainage (expanded clay, coarse sand or pebbles) is placed on the bottom of the dish, then a layer of light fertile soil about 5 cm thick, then a layer of sand thick one centimeter, after which the surface is carefully compacted, watered, pre-disinfected hyacinth bulbs are placed on top so that they do not touch each other, and then the dishes are filled with loose fertile soil. The tops of the bulbs should remain above the ground. The container is kept in a dark place at a temperature of 4-6 ºC for 2-3 months, until the roots grow on the bulbs. The soil in the pot should not dry out. It is not necessary to cover the dishes with film or glass.

After 10-12 weeks, leaves will appear on the hyacinths, and when they grow to 4-6 cm, the pot is transferred to the windowsill of an unheated room: the temperature for further development should be about 13 ºC. So that the leaves of the plants do not get burned and gradually get used to the light, a paper cap is put on the container: under the cap, the leaves begin to grow more intensively. When the peduncle reaches a height of 15 cm, the cap can be removed.

Hyacinth should be watered regularly, while trying to ensure that the roots of the plant are not in liquid mud. When the leaves open and the hyacinth is ready to bloom, it is moved to any well-lit place and kept at a temperature of 20 ºC, protected from direct sunlight, drafts and dry air coming from heating appliances.

When the hyacinth fades, the bulb is taken out of the ground and stored in the dark and cool until planting in the garden before winter.

forcing crocuses

Distillation of crocuses by March 8

Forcing crocuses by March 8 involves the use of early flowering large-flowered varieties: Jeanne d "Arc, Grand Lila, Grand Maitre, Remembrans, Flower Record, Pickwick, Vanguard, Purpureus Grandiflorus, Striped Beauty and Lagest Yellow. You can also drive out varieties with small flowers, but they When trying to get a distillation from a late variety of crocus, unpleasant surprises are possible: flowering may come earlier or later than the scheduled date.

Crocus bulbs dug out of the ground or bought in a store should be stored at a temperature of 17 ºC until planting for distillation. Landing is carried out on November 10-15.

Dishes for growing crocuses should be shallow and wide. As a substrate, you can use soil, fine gravel, fine pebbles, expanded clay, perlite, sand, hydrogel and even water: since all the necessary reserves for growth and development are in the bulb itself, it does not matter what it will sit in. But if you intend to continue to use the bulb for planting in open ground, it is better to use the soil as a substrate for distillation.

Forcing crocuses at home

Disinfected with Maxim's solution for half an hour, the bulbs are buried in the substrate halfway and so that they do not touch either the walls of the dishes or each other. The container is kept in a dark place at a temperature of 9 ºC for 9-10 weeks, then the temperature is lowered to 5 ºC, maintaining the substrate in a moderately moist state. 2-3 weeks before the scheduled date, crocuses are brought into a cool room, placed on a windowsill and covered with a paper cap for literally one day. By this time, the bulbs had already acquired roots and even small sprouts. A day later, the cap is removed.

When the smallest sprout reaches a height of 5 cm, the plant is ready to bloom, and you can plant the bulbs according to the size of the sprout, that is, plant bulbs with short sprouts in one container, and bulbs with long sprouts in another. Then flowering in each container will begin almost simultaneously and last 7-10 days.

Forcing daffodils

When to plant daffodils for forcing

The process of forcing daffodils is similar to the procedure for growing tulips, but it has its own characteristics. For winter distillation, varieties of taceto-shaped (multi-flowered) daffodils are most often used, but other varieties can be grown. It is important that the bulbs are dense, strong, with a diameter of at least 4 cm and a weight of 60 grams or more. Suitable for forcing and undersized varieties daffodils with not so large bulbs. Planting material should be stored at 17 ºC from the moment it is removed from the soil until it is planted in the forcing. Narcissus bulbs are disinfected before planting for half an hour in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or in a solution of Fitosporin (Maxim).

Daffodil bulbs are planted for distillation on October 15th. The substrate for distillation is used in the following composition: 2 parts of garden soil and 1 part of sand. Suitable for daffodils and neutral peat, and sand, and even sawdust. The size of the pot depends on how many bulbs you want to plant. The main thing is that there are drainage holes in the dishes. The container is half filled with the substrate, the bulbs are slightly pressed into it, positioning them so that they do not come into contact with each other and with the walls of the pot, after which the bulbs are covered with the substrate to two-thirds of their height. Dishes with daffodils are placed in a plastic, loosely packed bag and kept for 11-15 weeks in a dark place with high humidity at a temperature of 5-9 ºC. During this period of time, you should inspect the daffodils twice a week, controlling the humidity and temperature of the store. When the sprouts formed by the daffodils stretch up to 10 cm, the container is transferred to a bright room and kept at a temperature of 17 ºC, maintaining an air humidity of about 50%, and with the beginning of flowering, the temperature of the content is lowered to 11-12 ºC.

The timing of flowering can be adjusted: if you want daffodils to bloom in March or April, they need to be placed on December 15 at a temperature of 3-4 ºC, and two weeks before the planned flowering, add to warm room. Keeping open daffodils in cool conditions will make them bloom longer. When the flowers fade, take the container to a cool place, wait for the leaves to wither, dig up the bulbs and store them until planting in the ground at 17 ºC.

lily forcing

When to plant lilies for distillation

Not all varieties of lilies are suitable for distillation at home. Usually, varieties of long-flowered, tubular, tiger, Taiwanese, Philippine, snow-white and Japanese lilies, as well as regale lily, are driven out. Asian hybrids bloom faster than others, the most fragrant lilies are oriental, and the most reliable are tubular and long-flowered.

Planting dates depend on when you want to get flowering plants. On average, from the moment the bulb is planted to the beginning of flowering, 3-4 months pass. Asian hybrids bloom 60-70 days after planting, oriental and tubular hybrids - 100-140 days, long-flowered - 180-240 days after the appearance of sprouts, and tiger lily - 40-80 days after germination of the bulbs.

Bulbs for distillation are selected according to the same principle as the planting material of other crops: they must be strong, healthy and large. If the bulbs are planted for distillation not immediately after being removed from the ground, then they are stored until planting in wet sand or peat in a refrigerator or basement. If you want the lily to bloom in winter, the bulbs are planted in a pot in June or July, the pot is buried in the ground, and dug up in the fall and brought into the house. Such a lily will bloom in November or December.

The substrate for forcing lilies is made up of soddy soil, leaf humus and coarse sand. For sprouting tubular hybrids neutral or slightly alkaline mixtures are used, for orientals - slightly acidic peat, and Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in any flower substrate.

Forcing lilies at home

Drainage material is placed in a distillation tank with a depth of at least 20 cm, since lilies are very sensitive to excess moisture in the soil. Bulbs of stem-root lilies are deepened so that there is a soil layer of at least 5 cm above them, and bulbs of lilies that do not give additional roots can be planted not so deep.

A container with bulbs is watered and kept for 1.5-2 months at a temperature of 4-6 ºC with moderate humidity. As soon as the lilies develop roots, they are transferred to a bright room, and the temperature of the content is raised to 20 ºC. Watering is gradually increased, using water at room temperature to moisten the soil. Every 10 days, a solution of organic fertilizer is added to the substrate. It takes 30-40 days from the moment the buds form to the start of flowering, but if you want to speed up the process, you need to increase the temperature to 30-32 ºC, while increasing watering and organizing additional lighting. If you need to delay the start of flowering, do the opposite. In order to prolong the flowering period of lilies, keep them in a cool room. If you plant 5 bulbs of different flowering periods and hybrid groups in one dish, each blooming flower will add new colors to the bouquet.

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Usually spring bulbs are planted near the house in flower beds, flower beds or mixborders. This method is good for everyone, except for one thing - all this variety of crocuses, tulips and daffodils does not bloom for long, leaving ugly withered leaves on the surface of the earth. We have to dig up the bulbs and transfer them to the inconspicuous backyard of the site in order to plant summer flowers in the vacant place. Uncomfortable. In Europe, another method of growing bulbs has long been used - in containers or pots. In courtyards where the entire surface of the earth is occupied by a lawn, this method will come in handy. It is also a great opportunity to green up a terrace, veranda, paved patio or concrete path borders.

Despite the fact that we will only admire the beauty of flowering bulbs in pots in spring, planting should be carried out in the fall - in October or November.

Before landing, let's decide on some compositional issues. The easiest way is to plant several types of bulbous plants in separate small pots. By changing their location relative to each other, you can create new flower arrangements every time. Also, this method will be convenient for masking bald spots in flowerbeds, where letniki have not yet had time to ascend.

If desired, and the presence of a large pot (flowerpot, container), you can arrange and mixed landings. To do this, several sequentially flowering bulbs are planted in layers in one container, the decorative effect of which will alternate throughout the spring. Often, daffodils, tulips and crocuses are selected for such blooming "pies". Firstly, all these plants are very beautiful and finding their bulbs in any flower shop is not a problem. Secondly, such a “composition” guarantees the decorativeness of plantings for quite a long time.

Preparatory work with "mordant"

After acquiring bulbs and pots (or one large container), it's time to plant. You should know that it is impossible to plant bulbs without pre-treatment - it is likely that they are infected with fungi. Therefore, the planting material should be “pickled” - hold for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide (Maxim, fundazol, karbofos, etc.).

Planting bulbs in pots

Prepared bulbs are planted in pots at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other (horizontally). From above they are sprinkled with a layer of soil, the thickness of which is:

12-15 cm - for daffodils
7-10 cm - for tulips
3-5 cm - for crocuses and hyacinths

Landings are generously shed with water so that water drains from the drainage holes. It is advisable to sprinkle the surface of the soil with sand or, if slight frosts are expected at the place of future storage, mulch with sawdust. To prevent extracurricular germination of plants, the pots are covered with opaque material and taken to the storage site.

Stratification - cold storage

For bulbous plants, the period of stratification is important - cold testing. In other words, in order for the bulbs to germinate, they should be placed in a cool place for a while. Therefore, pots with plantings are stored on a glazed veranda, terrace or any outbuilding where the air temperature in winter will be around 3-8 ° C. In principle, a short-term drop in temperature below zero is allowed, but this should be the exception rather than the rule.

You should know that the temperature for rooting most bulbs is 5-10 ° C. Therefore, if during planting it turns out that the temperature in the place of their future maintenance has fallen below the permissible limit, stratification should be postponed for several days (up to a week). Leave the pots in a warm room where the bulbs will root safely. After that, you can send the pots for cool storage.

The term of stratification (storage) is usually 2-3 months. After that, you can bring landing in a warm room. Usually, by this time, germinated sprouts are already visible on the surface of the soil in pots. Flowering after an increase in temperature occurs in 2-4 weeks (depending on the type of bulbs planted).

The "noses" of tulips have hatched, which means we should expect flowering soon

If you plan to decorate an outdoor area (terrace, paths, etc.) with blooming bulbs, then wait for the temperature to rise naturally outside. Then potted bulbous plants will bloom simultaneously with ground plants.

The secrets of caring for bulbs in pots

There are no special difficulties in caring for potted bulbs. The main thing is to water and fertilize them on time. It is very important to provide plants good lighting, otherwise they will stretch and lose their “marketable” appearance.

Coolness is another important component of proper care. In a hot room, bulbous flowering will be reduced to a minimum, so the most optimal maintenance temperatures are 10-19 degrees. This is the flowering temperature of the bulbs in natural environment, that is, in the open field.

Thus, if you manage to reproduce natural growing conditions in a tight pot, then in early March you will be able to decorate your site with armfuls of bright flowers and bring the feeling of spring closer.

On the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, we artificially create conditions for early spring. Tulip bulbs are fully rooted within 3, and late varieties within 4 months; daffodils - within 2.5-3 months; hyacinths take root 2-3 months. At this time, you need to carefully monitor the moisture content of the soil: it should not dry out completely, but it is absolutely impossible to fill it in for the future. As soon as green sprouts 2-2.5 cm long appear, the pots are moved to a brighter place, but again not sunny and not too hot for 4-6 weeks. The temperature should be kept within + 10-15 ° С. This happens in an unheated room or on a loggia. Pots can be placed on the floor, because if there is too much light, the leaves will begin to reach for it and take all the strength from the bulb to grow. Then flowering may not occur at all.

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Armfuls of spring tulips bring vibrant colors to the monochrome style of the cobbled patio.

Despite the fact that we will only admire the beauty of flowering bulbs in pots in spring, planting should be carried out in the fall - in October or November.

How to plant: together or separately?

Separate plantings will prevent the spread fungal disease one type of bulbous for the entire collection

If desired, and the presence of a large pot (flowerpot, container), mixed plantings can also be arranged. To do this, several sequentially flowering bulbs are planted in layers in one container, the decorative effect of which will alternate throughout the spring. Often, daffodils, tulips and crocuses are selected for such blooming "pies". Firstly, all these plants are very beautiful and finding their bulbs in any flower shop is not a problem. Secondly, such a “composition” guarantees the decorativeness of plantings for quite a long time.

Bouquet of tulips, hyacinths and muscari in one pot

Preparatory work with "mordant"

After acquiring bulbs and pots (or one large container), it's time to plant. You should know that it is impossible to plant bulbs without pre-treatment - it is likely that they are infected with fungi. Therefore, the planting material should be “etched” - hold for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide (Maxim, fundazol, karbofos, etc.).

Planting bulbs in pots

Prepared bulbs are planted in pots at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other (horizontally). From above they are sprinkled with a layer of soil, the thickness of which is:

12-15 cm - for daffodils
7-10 cm - for tulips
3-5 cm - for crocuses and hyacinths

The scheme of planting several types of bulbs in one pot

Stratification - cold storage

The "noses" of tulips have hatched, which means we should expect flowering soon

The secrets of caring for bulbs in pots

There are no special difficulties in caring for potted bulbs. The main thing is to water and fertilize them on time. It is very important to provide the plants with good lighting, otherwise they will stretch and lose their "marketable" appearance.

Bulbs in pots will bloom for the longest time on the street, and not at home or on a glazed veranda

A large number of species of bulbous plants are known, so compositions with their participation can be created for any time of the year.

Tulips, jonquil daffodils and hyacinths are the most popular spring flowering plants. In summer, we are pleased with lilies, and in autumn - cyclamens and autumn crocuses. In winter, our gray everyday life will be brightened up by snowdrops and dwarf irises.

Good start

The bulb is a miniature plant, it consists of fleshy scales, and the tuber is a modified shoot with a thickened stem. Bulbous and tuberous plants can be grown not only in open ground, but also indoors. Many bulbous and tuberous plants are known.

Planting bulbs

Choose only healthy, fleshy bulbs of bulbous plants with no signs of damage and rot on the scales. Their size depends on the type of particular plant. It is best to buy bulbs before planting. Try to plant them immediately after purchase. Bulb packages indicate the time when you need to plant them in the ground. However, you should just remember that bulbous plants blooming at the end of winter and spring are planted in September or October, tulips can be planted even in November.

If you want spring-flowering plants to bloom in the house ahead of schedule, then try to get the bulbs already prepared for forcing. Remember also that hyacinths from bulbs unprepared for forcing will bloom earlier if you bring them home at the very beginning of the growing season.

Care

Before the appearance of visible signs of growth, the bulbs should be watered very sparingly. Keep plants well watered during the growing season. Before planting at the end of autumn, a small amount of bone meal should be added to the ground; during the growing season, bulbous plants are fed every 14 days with liquid complex fertilizers. If the bulbs in pots and tubs will winter outside, then take care of the insulation of the containers, sprinkle the ground with peat on top to protect the plants from severe frosts.

lightning effect

Colchicum blooms without problems in the fall in the house. Make sure that flower buds have already been released on the tubers. All that is required of you is to place them, for example, in a bowl of sand or pebbles. Their pink or white flowers will produce an unforgettable effect.

Planting tubers

1. Do not forget to put a thick layer of drainage on the bottom of the pot, for example, from clay shards, only then pour compost soil into the container.

2. Place the bulbs with the pointed end up. Plant them closely, but so that they do not touch each other and the walls of the flower pot. Under no circumstances should they be screwed into the substrate.

3. Sprinkle the planted bulbs with earth, lightly flatten the surface of the earth, and then water so that the soil is slightly damp.

Forcing bulbs

bulb preparation

Forcing is the germination of bulbs so that they bloom faster. Bulbs of tulips, daffodils, crocuses and hyacinths are used for distillation. Forcing plants bloom indoors in winter or early spring. To prepare the bulbs, you need to alternately hold them first at a low and then at a higher temperature. The bulbs are kept in the dark and cool for 8 to 14 weeks.

In the fall, plant the bulbs in pots filled with bulb soil. Place a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot. The tops of the bulbs should be on the surface of the soil. Water the bulbs and place the pot with them in a dark and cool room. If the air temperature is too high, the bulbs will take root and grow. Maintain consistent soil moisture. When the shoots reach a height of 3 cm, transfer flower pots with plants in a warm room.

Bulbs unprepared

Bulbous plants from bulbs unprepared for forcing can be grown independently. To do this, you can use the bulbs of crocuses, snowdrops, jonquil daffodils and miniature tulips.

At the end of flowering

Forcing plants do not bloom a second time. At the end of the flowering of bulbous plants, the bulbs are transferred to the garden and planted in open ground. After a few years, their bulbs can again be used for forcing.

Compositions

Try pairing bulbous plants with undersized or creeping (ground cover) species. Tulips, jonquil daffodils and hyacinths can be combined with daisies, Wittrock violets or dwarf varieties of ornamental onions. Dwarf species and varieties look very good in stone troughs in the company of small alpine plants such as shaving and stonecrop. Bulbous plants also look beautiful at the foot of low bushes planted in large flower pots or tubs, for example, near miniature conifers.

Spring bulbs can be admired not only in the spring in the garden, but even in winter - at home on the windowsill.

Not every bulb of a tulip, daffodil or hyacinth is suitable for forcing. You need to choose the largest, heaviest, dense, healthy. From a large, but loose bulb, full flowering is not worth waiting for. Nutrients in the scales of the plant are not enough, and this rhinestone will also affect the quality of the flowers.

It is better for beginner flower growers to purchase bulbs specially prepared in flower farms. If you decide to use bulbs from your garden, they will need to be specially prepared for forcing. Choose plants with the strongest stems. After the bud is colored and you make sure that the flower is not sick with the variegated virus, break it out. A bulb that will not waste energy on flowering will form a large replacement bulb, which you will then use for forcing.

According to the timing of flowering, early (from mid-December to mid-January) and late (from mid-January and inclusive to April) forcing are distinguished. This must be taken into account when choosing varieties of bulbous, which are also divided according to the timing of flowering into early, mid-flowering and late.

Before forcing, all bulbs must go through several preparatory stages. Each bulbous plant has its own.

Tulips. Growing at home

Bulbs after digging (or from the moment of purchase unprepared) are kept at a temperature of + 20-23 ° C. A month before planting, they are kept for 2 weeks at a temperature of + 17 ° C and for the remaining 2 weeks before planting (especially if it is an early forcing for the New Year), the bulbs are warmed up, that is, they are kept at a temperature of + 30-34 ° C.

Daffodils. Growing at home

For forcing daffodils for the New Year holidays, you need to choose early-flowering varieties. Purchased or dug out bulbs should be stored until the end of October in a dry, dark place at a temperature of + 4-6 ° C. For example, in the basement or between window frames(then it is necessary to protect the bulbs from sunlight by wrapping them with black paper).

If you want to please yourself with a bouquet of daffodils by March 8, then you need to store the bulbs like this all January and plant them in pots with soil in early February.

Hyacinths. Growing at home

From digging (from the moment of purchase) to planting, the bulbs lie at a temperature of +25°C. A month before planting, they keep 2 weeks at room temperature (+ 18-20 ° C) and the remaining 2 weeks before planting (especially if it is an early distillation for the New Year) - warm at a temperature of + 30 ° С.

The capacity for planting should be low (but not lower than two bulb heights) and wide. A layer of drainage is poured at the bottom. All bulbs are planted so that 1/3 rises above the ground. Plant them close to each other, but do not allow contact. The soil should be light, breathable. Suitable universal flower primer with the addition of sand in a ratio of 2: 1. If there is no sand, it can be replaced with vermiculite or perlite. When planting, do not press the bulbs strongly or screw in, the bottom should not be damaged. You just need to carefully set the bulbs and fill them with soil from the sides. Now they should be in the dark and at a low positive temperature.

The soil is moistened, but not much, only so that the moisture reaches the bottom of the bulb. Then the pots are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator or lowered into the cellar, where the temperature is kept no higher than + 7-9 ° C. In no case do not cover the pots and do not put them in plastic bags. Polyethylene will not allow air to pass through, which will cause the earth to become covered with mold, and, of course, the bulbs will suffer. If this still happens, then the topsoil is changed to fresh.

To prevent light from falling on the bulbs, it is better to cover them, but loosely, with black cloth or paper.

As soon as green sprouts 2-2.5 cm long appear, the pots are moved to a brighter place, but again not sunny and not too hot for 4-6 weeks. The temperature should be kept within + 10-15 ° С. This happens in an unheated room or on a loggia. Pots can be placed on the floor, because if there is too much light, the leaves will begin to reach for it and take all the strength from the bulb to grow. Then flowering may not occur at all.

When the leaves noticeably grow on the bulbs and a small but strong bud still appears between them, the plants begin to be watered more abundantly, gradually accustomed to room temperature and brought out into the light. With a sharp increase in temperature, flowering will be very short. If the buds are already colored, and the peduncle is still too short, then the pots are placed in a cool and dark place for several days.

AMARYLLIS: PLANTING AND CARE

In the past, amaryllis (Arnarillis belladonna) was a very common and popular indoor plant, but is now quite rare among flower growers, as it has been greatly pressed by its more successful counterpart, hippeastrum.

With some famous plants, fate played a cruel joke. Their widely used name does not match the correct botanical one. The most famous example is the geranium-pelargonium. Often this is not of fundamental importance, but the case of amaryllis is special, so

how its life cycle and some elements of agricultural technology differ from those of the outwardly very similar hippeastrum, garden molds which go on sale under the commercial name "amaryllis". Further aggravating the confusion is the fact that in the selection of these hippeastrums (H. xhortorium), indeed, hybridization with amaryllis was widely used.

Accommodation and boarding

Like the vast majority of bulbous plants, amaryllis is very photophilous and the place for its maintenance should be brightly lit. It tolerates direct sunlight well, and windows with a southeast or southwest exposure will be optimal for placement. The soil prefers light, medium fertility. A mixture of soddy soil, humus and sand (1:1:2) will fully satisfy his needs. A drainage layer is required at the bottom of the pot. The top of the bulb should rise slightly above the soil surface. The roots of amaryllis are very brittle, so the planting procedure is carried out carefully. For the same reason, it is advisable to transplant the bulb no more than once every 3-4 years.

seasonal cycle

By controlling the parameters of the external environment, flowering of most bulbs can be caused at almost any time of the year. Amaryllis is no exception. However, in room conditions it would be optimal to time the end of the dormant period at the beginning of spring. If necessary, the plant is transplanted and the overgrown nests are divided. At the beginning of leaf growth, watering is limited. Gradually increase it, but always moisten the soil very moderately and carefully, allowing the top layer to dry slightly. In the vegetative phase, once a decade it is useful to feed the plant, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.

By mid-late summer, the leaves of amaryllis begin to gradually die off. At this time, watering should be gradually reduced. Soon a flower arrow appears. Each individual flower does not live long, but the total duration of flowering of a perennial nest can be about a month, especially at moderate temperatures.

At the end of flowering, the pot with the bulb should be placed in a dark, cool room with a temperature of about + 10 degrees, for at least 2-3 months. A dormant period for amaryllis is required. Although the plant is dormant, its roots do not dry out, so the ground should remain slightly damp.

Reproduction of amaryllis

They bloom with good care in 3-4 years. Although it is better not to do this without the need, since the “family” group formed over several years looks much more impressive than a single bulb. If you are going to follow this advice, immediately take a wide pot when planting. To increase the decorative effect, you can initially plant several bulbs in one pot.

If you wish, you can try seed propagation, but you will have to wait at least 5 years for the first flowering of seedlings. Seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, so they must be sown within a month after ripening, lightly sprinkled with a substrate. At a temperature of + 23-25 degrees, shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. A leaf will appear - seedlings dive.

Possible difficulties

Amaryllis is generally unpretentious. From possible problems the main one is the rotting of the bulb against the background of excessive moisture. In order to prevent various kinds of rot, periodic treatments with one of the microbiological fungicides (Alirin, Gliocladin, Fitosporin, etc.) can be recommended. When a disease occurs, the bulb is cleaned of the soil, the affected parts are cut out, treated with a fungicide (for example, Maxim), the damage sites are sprinkled with activated carbon, slightly dried (2-3 hours) and planted in a new soil. The first watering in 1-2 days after planting, in the future - very moderate.

The main pests - scale insects and spider mites, most often appear in dry air conditions. For the fight, insecticides and acaricides approved for use are used.

Alexander TSYMBAL. plant collector, Togliatti

Another important and pleasant difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum is its high rate of formation of daughter bulbs. Therefore, there are no problems with reproduction. Babies are carefully separated during transplantation.

AMARCRINUM: LANDING AND CARE

This representative of the bulbous is still not very common in home collections, although it is undoubtedly worthy of attention.

Howard's Amarcrinum (Amarcrinum howardii) is a hybrid of Amaryllis and Crinum (Amaryllis belladonna x Crinum). This is evergreen height 60-70 cm with pleasant pink flowers. In the spring it grows a shock of long, belt-shaped leaves, and blooms in late summer and early autumn. Peduncles reach 90-100 cm.

In early spring, the bulb is planted in the ground, deepening into the soil at half its height. During the growing season (from spring to autumn) they are fed 2-3 times a month, at the beginning of growth - with a larger proportion of nitrogen, closer to the time of flowering, the proportion of potassium and phosphorus is increased. It is important not to exceed the recommended concentration of fertilizers, but it is better to lower it by 1.5-2 times. Shortly after flowering, the interval and intensity of watering is reduced, and top dressing is stopped. When part of the leaves turns yellow and dries out, the pot with the plant is transferred to a room with a temperature of +10 degrees or lower. Cold wintering is a must.

Amarcrinum loves fresh air and natural diurnal temperature fluctuations. In the warm season, it is advisable to take it out to the balcony, to the loggia or to the garden. Can be planted directly in open ground (in regions with mild winters)

we can overwinter with shelter). Like its "progenitor" amaryllis, Howard's amarcrinum actively builds up children and forms large nests of bulbs. Therefore, for planting plants pick up a spacious wide pot. The soil is loose and nutritious. The plant is propagated by daughter bulbs during transplantation.

In my opinion, amarcrinum is easier to care for than amaryllis, and it also blooms more readily.

Elena KUZNETSOVA, Amaryllidaceae collector, Pumza

BOVIEA: LANDING AND CARE

Zulu potato, creeping bulb, sea cucumber - these are not all the names of curly boviea (Bowiea volubilis), which were awarded to her by local residents in her homeland, in South and South-West Africa.

This elegant plant, according to modern classification, belongs to the Asparagus family (Asparagaceae). With its unusual appearance, Boviaya will surely appeal to lovers of the exotic.

Peculiarities

Bulbs in rooms grow up to 5-7, rarely 10 cm in diameter, usually covered with dry scales. When kept in conditions of moderate lighting and abundant watering, the scales do not dry out for a long time and remain green.

In spring, a juicy, green, highly branched, winding peduncle (or several) grows from the center of an adult bulb, which, in addition to flowering itself (which happens relatively rarely in rooms), carries out the entire photosynthetic function. The length of its lashes can be more than a meter. They can be provided with vertical support or allowed to hang down freely. The openwork, incredibly intertwined greenery of boviea looks most impressive when several bulbs are planted in a pot.

Bovia care

Bovia is unpretentious in care. It can grow both in the sun (shaded in summer) and in partial shade. Under midday direct rays, the plant can get burned, which will lead to a loss of decorative effect and premature death of the aerial part.

When planting, only the lower part of the bulb is deepened. The mixture is like for succulents, not too nutritious, with obligatory loosening additives (coarse sand, perlite, etc.). It is important not to overdo it with watering - in summer it is enough to moisten every 7-10 days. Excess and stagnation of moisture is fraught with rotting of the bulb.

In autumn, with a decrease in daylight hours, the aerial part dries up and the plant rests all winter. At this time, it is desirable to provide him with coolness (about +15 degrees) and not disturb with watering, keep it completely dry.

It should be remembered that climbing bovia is a poisonous plant.

Natalia GUBANOVA. Minsk club of cactus lovers. Author's photo

VALLOTA: LANDING AND CARE

We have been friends with Vallota for more than five years. This plant was my cherished dream, attracted by unpretentiousness, bright red color of flowers and compactness.

The leaves of the wallot, unlike the hip-peastrum, are shorter and do not disappear for the winter, allowing the plant to maintain its decorative effect all year round. And the peduncle is low, with a neat bouquet of flowers. The bulb is slightly elongated, oval, integumentary scales and leaves at the base are brown-raspberry - by these features it is easy to distinguish it from other bulbs of the Amaryllis family.

And I was also surprised by her many babies that appear in the axils of the leaves. Separated from the mother plant and falling into the pot, they form contractile roots, which, as if by magic, draw the bulbs into the soil to the required depth.

Long awaited acquisition

I was lucky - at one of the flower markets I met my dream. In the center of the pot, surrounded by children of different ages, sat a large bulb, decorated with a peduncle with four bright red flowers - everything I imagined.

At home, she carefully examined the plant, processed it for prevention from pests, and gave some of the children. After a couple of weeks, the peduncle was cut in half, waited for its lower part to dry, and removed completely.

Wallot transplant

Next up was a transplant. During this procedure, I always separate part of the children, leaving no more than 3-4, so as not to deplete the mother bulb. The roots of the wallot are plump, but fragile, and easily rot if damaged. Therefore, I powdered them with a mixture of crushed charcoal with root. While they were drying in the air, poured into a pot bigger size a layer of drainage, lined with a thin layer of moss, crumbled a little dry chicken manure near the walls - she loves top dressing, especially organic matter. Terra Vita took the soil, added vermiculite, sand, black earth and crushed moss (5: 0.5: 0.5: 1: 0.5). She poured the soil mixture in a slide, carefully straightened the roots and filled the rest of the space with soil. The onions rose a third above the ground.

After transplanting, I watered the shaft-lot not immediately (it is enough that the soil is moderately moist), but after a week. This made it possible for the roots to get used to the fresh soil, and the wounds to drag on. Until the first watering, she kept the plant in the twilight and cool.

About flowering

The Vallota is now on the top shelf of the west loggia. Only at the time of flowering I transfer the plant to a shelf closer to the door so that you can admire it from the room bright colors. Blooms mainly in summer or autumn. Each flower lasts an average of ten days, and given that they do not open at the same time, you can admire the blooming wallot for a long time.

rest period

After the end of flowering for a month and a half, I continue to water and feed the plant, then I definitely arrange a dormant period. I keep the wallot at a temperature of + 8-10 degrees, I gradually reduce watering to a minimum, but I do not allow the loss of leaves - it is very important to keep most of the foliage in winter.

In the spring I move the wallot closer to the light, I resume watering and fertilizing. I feed and mineral fertilizers for flowering plants, and infusion of chicken manure. In warm weather, I water abundantly, but between watering I let the soil dry out. Wallot does not tolerate constantly moist soil.

If desired, you can achieve repeated flowering of the plant by arranging for it an additional dormant period.

When propagated by seeds, wallot blooms in the third year, when propagated by daughter bulbs - in the second. Before flowering, seedlings can be grown without a dormant period.

Elena KHOMICH, Balashikha, Moscow Region Author's photo

From the editor: according to the modern classification, the Vallot family has been disbanded. Species formerly included in it are now included in the genera Cirtanthus and Clivia. The name Vallota speciosa is now synonymous with the name Cyrtanthus elatus.

GEMANTHUS: LANDING AND CARE

A "deer tongue" settled on my windowsill. That is what the people call this interesting bulbous plant.

Hemanthuses are native to South Africa. Translated from Greek, hemanthus means "bloody flower", it received this name due to the fact that most representatives of the genus have rich red flowers. But among lovers of indoor plants, the white-flowered gemanthus (Haemanthus albiflos) is more popular - a very spectacular and fairly simple plant to maintain.

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Broad, dense, oval, slightly pubescent leaves (because of which he received the nickname "deer tongue") are arranged in a dense fan. Usually there are few of them - from two to six. The height of the plant is 20-25 cm. It grows slowly, usually only two new leaves grow per year. The old leaves die off, and the bulb gradually thickens and reaches 6-8 cm in an adult plant. The flowering of the white-flowered hemanthus is very interesting - the inflorescence on a thick peduncle looks like a bowl full of snow-white stamens with yellow pollen. In adult plants, 2-3 peduncles may appear. Hemanthus blooms usually in late summer or early autumn.

Hemanthus: care

The plant is photophilous, but does not like direct sunlight at the height of summer - the tips of the leaves can burn and dry. The ideal place for him is an east or west window. On the south window, the gemanthus must be shaded. Watering in the summer is plentiful, but the soil between waterings must definitely dry out. Two to three times during the growing season (from May to September) hemanthus can be fed complex fertilizer for bulb crops. In winter, it is desirable for the plant to provide a period of relative rest at a temperature of + 15-18 degrees, with more rare watering.

Hemanthus transplant

Once every two or three years, at the beginning of spring, it is advisable to transplant the hemanthus. The plant prefers loose and nutritious soil. I mix two parts soddy soil and one part coarse sand. You can add some peat to this mixture. At the bottom of the pot I pour a layer of drainage (expanded clay or fine gravel), then soil, install the bulb, evenly distributing the roots, and fill it up to about a third of the height. The pot should not be too wide or deep. You can recommend a container with a diameter of two to three times the diameter of the bulb. There must be holes to drain excess water: hemanthus roots are sensitive to moisture stagnation in the soil and can rot, especially if the plant is in a cool room or in a draft.

Hemanthus reproduction

Reproduction of hemanthus is not difficult. At the base of an adult bulb, small baby bulbs regularly appear, which can be easily separated from the mother plant and rooted in separate pots. Young plants usually bloom in the 3-4th year.

Hemanthus can also be propagated by seeds - juicy red fruits are often tied after flowering (the plant is prone to self-pollination) and ripen in about three months, by the beginning of winter.

Possible difficulties

Hemanthus white-flowered is quite resistant to pests. Sometimes it can be attacked by aphids, worms, spider mites. In this case, the plant is treated with appropriate preparations. With regular waterlogging, especially in combination with low temperatures, possibly rotting of the roots and the bulbs themselves.

HIPPEASTRELIA: LANDING AND CARE

There are not so many intergeneric hybrids in the Amaryllis family. One of them, a hybrid of hippeastrum and the most beautiful sprekelia, was obtained back in the 70s of the last century.

In my opinion, Hippeastrelia (x Hippeastrelia) has absorbed some of the advantages of both parents: from Hippeastrum - the relative ease of flowering, and from Sprekelia - the elegance of the flower lines and the rich bright red color of the petals.

Features of hippeastrelia

The bulb is reddish, slightly smaller in size, in most varieties of hippeastrum, it is dense to the touch, covered with several layers

dark dry scales. Gives babies abundantly, forming a "nest". The leaves are dark green, narrow (not more than 3 cm wide), long, with a groove on the upper side, also reddish at the base. Grow at the end of winter-spring, simultaneously or immediately after flowering.

Planting and substrate for hippeastrelia

Plant the bulb, deepening half or a third of its height. Planting time (December to March) depends on the time of retirement the previous autumn - the plant should rest for about three months. If the bulb is "sleeping", you can wait with planting - until a lighter period, and if the tip of the peduncle or leaves appears - it's time to plant. Although, if the time has come for awakening, the bulb can be planted without the corresponding signs - moisture, heat, light will do their job, and it will wake up.

The soil for planting is loose, water and breathable. A mixture of universal flower soil, leaf soil and baking powder (coarse sand, perlite) is suitable. Drainage is required at the bottom of the pot. The shape of the container is standard, the height is slightly larger than the diameter. From the edge of the pot to the bulb - about 3 cm.

Watering and fertilizing

The first time after planting, the plant is watered sparingly. Until the bulb is well rooted, excess moisture will not be good for it. When the leaves begin to grow, watering can be increased and at the height of the growing season, water as the topsoil dries out. It is better to drain the water from the pan.

Feeding begins about a month after planting, after the end of flowering, once every two weeks. If there is no specialized fertilizer for bulbs, at the beginning of growth, a complex fertilizer for ornamental foliage is suitable, from August it is better to reduce the proportion of nitrogen.

Hippeastrelia: care

Under bright lighting, with several hours of direct morning or evening sun per day, hippeastrelia leaves will be strong, “tanned”, the outlet will not fall apart and retain its decorative effect. From the lack of light, the leaves are stretched, thinner and often droop / lie down under their own weight.

Daily temperature fluctuations and an abundance of fresh air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of the plant and subsequent winter bloom, so that in the warm season, the hippea-streliya can be taken out into the garden, onto the balcony, into the loggia and placed in a light openwork penumbra.

rest period

In autumn, from the end of September, watering is gradually reduced, and when night temperatures begin to drop below + 8-10 degrees, the plant is taken indoors without digging, put for wintering in a dark, cool (preferably no higher than + 15 degrees) place. The leaves are removed after complete drying. Hippeastrelia overwinters without leaves. My copy copes with the rest and subsequent awakening without problems, although it dries out by spring by almost a third of its “autumn” volume due to a higher than necessary temperature (+ 18-20 degrees).

Hippeastrelia flowering

Hippeastrelia usually produces 1-2 dark red peduncles bearing two flowers each. Their height depends on the level of illumination. Sometimes flower stalks develop simultaneously, and sometimes in turn. This spring, as many as three flower stalks blazed with a bouquet of bright red flowers for a week! The spectacle is impressive, and worth the wait for a whole year.

Natalia GUBANOVA, plant collector, Minsk. Photo by Alexey GUBANOV

DRIMIOPSIS: LANDING AND CARE

I have had a plant for many years that surprises everyone who sees it for the first time. No, it does not have such flowers as orchids, and its size is modest, and its leaves are discreet. Nevertheless, drimiopsis always attracts attention.

Indeed, the pot is filled with bulbs that look like bulbs. garden lilies, and the leaves on high variegated petioles look like lily of the valley leaves, only speckled. During flowering, drimiopsis from afar can also be mistaken for a lily of the valley. No wonder - both plants belong to the same Asparagus family, but drimiopsis flowers are more like stars than bells. White at the beginning, they turn green towards the end of flowering.

Dating history

Drimiopsis spotted appeared to me a long time ago, about 12 years ago. I bought a small bulb with a couple of speckled leaves in the market and, fortunately, the hostess even knew its name. And I called it “dream” to myself, from the English “dream”.

Survive in any conditions

Drimiopsis gave many children, and I shared with everyone. Arriving one day to a friend, I did not immediately recognize my plant. When I asked what happened to drimiopsis, my friend replied that she didn’t do anything special, planted it in a spacious bowl, watered it like all flowers. But the leaves of the plant were three times larger than mine, just some kind of burdock. Perhaps the dreamiopsis liked the place on the windowsill in the bathroom: warm, light and humid. I take care of my copy like a succulent: a cramped pot, moderate watering, a lot of light. Hence the conclusion - the plant will survive in any conditions, this is also confirmed by the case that happened to my drimiopsis.

Miracles of Fortitude

For several years the plant was not transplanted and the bulbs were already hardly placed in a pot. In the spring I was going to make a transplant, took the plant out of the flowerpot and saw that there was no earth left at all, only bulbs and roots. But something prevented me from finishing the job, I put the bulbs in a cardboard box and put them on the shelf. In the spring, there are enough worries, and if there are more than one hundred indoor plants, and there are no less in the garden, then you won’t immediately notice the “loss” of one of them. In general, I found a box of bulbs before the New Year, cleaning up on the shelves (fortunately, our veranda is heated). For 8 months, the bulbs did not even lose turgor, although there were no leaves or roots. I planted the five largest ones in a bowl, and distributed the rest to my friends. A month later, all the bulbs took root, a little later leaves and babies appeared, and by May the plant bloomed as if nothing had happened. Well, how not to admire such vitality?

Easy care

In spring and summer, I water drimiopsis regularly, 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather. autumn

I reduce watering to 1 time per week, and in winter - up to 2-3 times a month. Sometimes in winter, the plant loses some of the leaves, this is a natural process, so a little drying of the earthy coma at this time of the year will not harm it. I use the soil the same as for all bulbs: universal purchased soil plus garden soil with the addition of charcoal and vermiculite. As a drainage I take expanded clay. When planting, the bulbs should protrude 2/3 above the soil surface; in the process of growth, they almost completely “come out” of it. Drimiopsis spends summer in a room; on the street, its delicate leaves on high petioles can be ruffled by the wind and burn the sun. Its usual place is on a table near the west window; in hot summers, it feels good on the north window.

Settle such an unpretentious spotted miracle on your windowsill, you will not regret it!

Valentina MIRONOVA, Bataysk, Rostov region Photo by the author and Valentina VASILEVSKAYA

ZEPHYRANTHES: LANDING AND CARE

The Latin name Zephyranthes translates as "flower of the west wind" and reflects the unexpectedness of the appearance of peduncles and the speed of development of the flowers of this plant. Because of this feature, zephyranthes are often called the "upstart".

Zephyranthes are small plants with small cone-shaped bulbs up to 2.5-3 cm in diameter and narrow linear leaves up to 30 cm long, which most often grow simultaneously with flowers. Peduncle 20-30 cm long bears a single relatively large flower, surrounded by two fused bracts. Its life span is only a few days, but each bulb can form several peduncles, so new ones appear instead of wilted flowers.

Zephyranthes flowers are pink, white or yellow with a funnel-shaped perianth, bloom in spring and summer, in some species - in winter. In the case of pollination, a fruit is formed - a box with flat dark seeds.

Keep in mind that marshmallows contain toxic alkaloids. In some countries they are used as medicinal plants.

Zephyranthes Care

Zephyranthes is photophilous and feels comfortable in direct sunlight. In summer, the plant can be taken out to the loggia, to the balcony, and even planted in open ground. During the growing season, watering is regular, but moderate - as the topsoil dries up, without overflows and stagnation of water in the pot. Humidity does not play a significant role. For the full formation of flower buds, the bulbs arrange a dormant period - a dry and cool wintering.

To this end, in the fall, watering is gradually reduced, which leads to yellowing and drying of the leaves. Contain at a temperature of + 12-14 (not lower than +10) degrees. Leafless bulbs can not be watered, and if the leaves are partially preserved, the plant is kept in a bright place, rarely (once a month) and moistened very sparingly. Regular watering is resumed after the start of the growing season.

Zephyranthes transplant

Under the condition of regular fertilizing during growth with complex mineral fertilizers (once every two weeks), an annual transplant is not required. Only overgrown nests of bulbs are planted, which become cramped in a pot (about once every 3-4 years). The best time for this is spring, at the end of the dormant period. The bulbs are planted in fertile loose and well-drained soil, deepening so that the tops are at the level of the surface of the substrate. To achieve the maximum decorative effect, wide and low pots are used, in which several specimens are planted at once. At first, water very carefully to avoid rotting of the bulbs.

reproduction

It is easiest to propagate zephyranthes with daughter bulbs. Rarely seeds. To obtain them, artificial pollination of flowers is required. Seedlings usually bloom for 3-4 years.

Diversity

In the subtropical and tropical regions of America, there are about 40 species of zephyranthes. In room conditions, the most common: - Zephyranthes atamasca (ZEPHYRANTHES atamasca) with white flowers, originally from the southern states of the USA;

– white zephyranthes(Zephyranthes Candida) with crocus-shaped, white flowers, from the tropical zone of eastern South America. A favorite indoor plant, known in culture since 1515. Unlike other species, it retains leaves during the dormant period;

– zephyranthes grandiflorum(Zephyranthes grandiflora) with large pink flowers, grows in Mexico, Guatemala on the island of Jamaica;

– zephyranthes pink(Zephyranthes rosea) with pink flowers, from Central America, differs from 3tabhfyntcf large-flowered in smaller size;

– golden zephyranthes(Zephyranthes aurea) with golden yellow flowers, originally from Peru.

Less common zephyranthes lemon yellow(Zephyranthes citrina) with bright yellow flowers, Zephyranthes Drummonda(Zephyranthes drummondii) - with white flowers, outside having a salmon-pink hue, Lindley's zephyranthes (Zephyranthes lindleyana) with large pink flowers and others.

Breeders have bred dozens of varieties with flowers of various colors, shapes and sizes. Modern cultivars are represented by pastel-colored zephyranthes, unusual shades of red, two-tone with a bright contrasting center, as well as striped and double flowers.

KRINUM: LANDING AND CARE

In my amaryllis family, the reddish krinum (Crinum erubescens) appeared three years ago as a baby. Flower growers complain that it does not bloom for a long time, growing leaves for years.

I managed to admire its flowers in just a couple of years. The secret is simple - for flowering krinum needs a dormant period in coolness.

1st year. The resulting krinum baby was planted in a universal purchased soil with the addition of baking powder (perlite, coarse sand). She successfully took root and started to grow.

Watered moderately and evenly throughout the year, kept in a bright place. 2nd year. Transplanted into a larger pot. Krinum has increased in size and has grown "children" - it means that it has become old enough for a dormant period. In autumn, I gradually reduced watering and transferred it to the loggia. There, the krinum rested in coolness until February with rare moistening once a month and a half. During this time, some "kids" dried up due to lack of moisture.

At the end of winter, she resumed her usual watering regime, but did not replant the plant, since the cramped pot in an adult krinum stimulates flowering. 3rd year. In the spring and all summer, the krinum actively grew, increased the children and sometimes dried them. In the fall, she again sent him to the loggia with minimal watering. And now, finally, in the spring, the spout of the peduncle appeared!

I looked every day - how the “arrow” is increasing there.

I admired the long-awaited flowering for a week - unfortunately, the flowers of the krinum, like many amaryllis, quickly wither.

How to distinguish from others

I often come across the fact that flower growers have this amazing plant, but they either confuse it with other members of the Amaryllis family, or they don’t know at all who it is and what its name is. Krinum in both flowering and non-flowering form is easy to distinguish:

- krinum leaves grow in a circle, coming out of the middle, twisted into a tube;
- if you pull on dry scales, a “spider web” will stretch (typical only for krinum);
- and if the krinum has bloomed, it’s quite simple: its flowers do not have a crown, like the hymenocallis, with which it is often scared.

The name "ledeburia" was given to the genus in honor of the famous German botanist, explorer of Siberia and Altai, Carl Friedrich von Ledebur. The plant itself comes from the Cape Province of South Africa, where it grows on open plains and in dry floodplains that are flooded during the rainy season.

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Ledeburia has very beautiful lanceolate leaves 7-10 cm tall, purple-violet below, and silvery with green spots above.

Elena KUZNETSOVA, Penza. Photo by Tatiana Sanchuk

LEDEBURIA: LANDING AND CARE

Ledebouria socialis, or Violet Scilla (Scilla violacea) is one of the few bulbous plants that is decorative all year round.

The bulb is small, purple, usually half immersed in the ground. Abundantly formed daughter onions soon fill the pot, forming a kind of curtain, for which ledeburia was called public. In March-April, inflorescences with greenish bell-shaped flowers appear on plants with large bulbs.

Ledebury care

Ledeburia is photophilous and prefers southern windows, it can also grow in western or southeastern windows (if there is not enough light, the color of the leaves may fade), it is undemanding to air humidity. It develops well in a loose nutrient substrate, for example, in leafy soil with the addition of humus. Requires moderate watering, the earth ball should dry out regularly. In spring and summer, ledeburia is fed with fertilizers for bulbous or complex fertilizer with a predominance of potassium - at half the recommended dose once every two weeks. In summer, the plant can be taken out into the garden, but it should be remembered that it does not tolerate a drop in temperature below +7 degrees.

Reproduction of ledeburia

Ledeburia is propagated by daughter bulbs, which can be separated at any time of the year, but it is also easy to propagate from seeds. It is recommended to transplant overgrown nests into a new substrate every 3-4 years, while separating excess bulbs, thereby slightly rejuvenating the plant.

Possible difficulties

Ledeburia is quite unpretentious and is rarely affected by pests and diseases. Of the main pests, one can name a spider mite and a scale insect; aphids and thrips can occasionally harm. As a result of overflow, especially with cold water, the roots can rot. Plants should be periodically inspected and appropriate preparations applied, if necessary.

Diversity

In addition to the public ledeburia in the culture of indoor floriculture, you can also find Cooper's ledeburia (Ledebouria cooperi) and yellow ledeburia (Ledebourialuteola). At Ledeburia Cooper green leaves with longitudinal purple stripes and bright pink fragrant flowers. The leaves of yellow ledeburia are smaller, yellowish-green in color, with a pattern of dark spots.

Tatyana KUSHNIKOVA, plant collector, Novosibirsk

SCADOXUS: LANDING AND CARE

I was very impressed when I first saw the bright, unusual flowering of Skadoxus - three spectacular openwork inflorescences resembling giant dandelions towered above the soil in a pot, on leafless peduncles.

Scadoxus multiflorus (Scadoxus multiflorus)- one of 9 species of the genus of bulbous plants of the Amaryllis family. Distributed in South Africa, the Arabian Peninsula and the Seychelles. It occurs in lowlands and mountain forests, savannas, meadows and pastures, along river banks, where it grows in the shade of trees and shrubs. In culture, scadoxus is grown as a houseplant, for forcing at various times, and even as a cut crop.

Previously, this plant was attributed to the genus Haemanthus (Haemanthus), whose name in Greek means "bloody flower". In 1976, it was separated into an independent genus Skadoxus, but the popular names still reflect the peculiar color of the flowers, for example, the English language translates as "blood lily".

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The spherical umbellate inflorescence can reach 25 cm in diameter and have up to 200 cinnabar-red flowers with narrow petals and long stamens.

Each bulb forms one inflorescence per season. After pollination, berries up to 1 cm in diameter are tied, which turn red as they ripen. Large and thin leaves with a textured folded surface, relief veins and wavy edges grow simultaneously with the peduncle or form after flowering. The leaf petioles are tightly coiled and form a false stem, often spotted with reddish brown or dark purple.

Diversity

Typical Scadoxus multiflorus, which was previously considered as a subspecies (Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. multiflorus) or Hemanthus multiflorum (H. multiflorus), is a small plant from dry and sunny savannahs. The peduncle usually appears before the leaves grow back. The rest period is pronounced and long.

In addition, according to the modern classification, botanists distinguish two subspecies that differ in the structure of flowers, plant size and distribution area in nature.

Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. catharinae, formerly known as Hemanthus Katerina (N. katharinae), is the tallest representative of the species (up to 120 cm) with purple spots on the pseudostem. It blooms simultaneously with the formation of leaves, prefers partial shade. The rest period is short.

Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. longitubus formerly called Hemanthus long-tubular (N. longitubus) or Gemanthus Mann (N. mannii). Rarely found in culture, mainly in the collections of botanical gardens.

Known varieties of skadoxus with large inflorescences - "Konig Albert", "Andromeda" and "In Rainbows", obtained by crossing the multi-flowered sweetbite (ssp. katharinae) with pomegranate sweetbite (Scadoxus puniceus) and membranous sweetbite (Scadoxus membranaceus). Cul-tivar "Orange Wonder" is grown as a cut crop, its cut inflorescences remain decorative for up to two weeks.

Sweetbite - care

Skadoxus is a light-loving plant, its optimum is from bright but diffused lighting to light partial shade. In direct sunlight, the leaves can get burned. A loose, permeable and well-drained substrate rich in organic matter, such as compost soil, is suitable for cultivation. Useful during flowering and growing season regular feeding complex fertilizers.

For the summer, it is advisable to take the plant out into the fresh air - to the loggia, to the balcony. During active growth, water moderately, in the heat - abundantly, but without waterlogging, which can cause rotting of the roots and bulbs.

In autumn, watering is reduced, after the above-ground part dries, the pot with the bulb is placed in a cool place (+ 10-15 degrees). During the dormant period (usually October-January), the soil is rarely and sparingly moistened.

Adult skadoxus are transplanted every 2-3 years after flowering, before growth begins, while the bulb is not completely buried.

Sweetbite reproduction

The plant is propagated by daughter bulbs or grown from freshly harvested seeds. Seeds are cleaned of pulp, washed and slightly pressed into a loose substrate. Flowering seedlings will have to wait at least three years.

Mikhail MANYAKOV, head of the Club of Indoor Plant Lovers Inflorescence, Grodno

SPREKELIA: LANDING AND CARE

This plant is popular with flower growers due to its striking exotic flowers with exquisitely curved velvety petals (perianth segments), painted in a rich cinnabar red hue.

Genus Sprekelia (Sprekelia) from the Amaryllis family was previously considered monotypic, that is represented by a single species - the most beautiful Sprekelia (Sprekelia formosissima). Botanists have now added several new species to it, notably Sprekelia howardii, a more compact plant with narrow petals, named after bulb expert Thad Howard, Sprekelia glauca with bluish leaves and some others that have not yet received distribution in culture.

Sprekelia - endemic to Mexico, was brought to Europe in the 16th century and got its name in honor of the mayor

Hamburg Spreckelsen (Johann Heinrich von Spreckelsen, 1691-1764), who cultivated it. This bulbous plant is sometimes called Aztec lily, Templar lily, Saint James lily, and Mexican amaryllis.

Features of the genus

Sprekelia flowers have a pronounced zygomorphism (one axis of symmetry), which is rare in Amaryllis. The top three segments are erect, with tips bent back, the other three are directed downwards. The flowers have a slight vanilla scent. Each peduncle is crowned with a single flower, however, large bulbs can form several peduncles at the same time (2-3). Sprekelia blooms in spring or early summer, in good conditions it sometimes re-blooms in autumn. However, the plant does not always please with flowers every year. In case of violations of agricultural technology, it can “be capricious” and, instead of laying flower buds, grow into daughter bulbs.

Sprekelia: care

It must be borne in mind that sprekelia is light and thermophilic. For good development during the growing season, it needs high illumination with a proportion of direct sunlight and a temperature of + 20-25 degrees. For the summer, the plant can be taken out to the loggia or balcony. Watering in spring and summer should be moderate. Avoid getting moisture on the bulb, waterlogging the soil and standing water in the pan. Light drying between waterings is acceptable. Top dressing with complex mineral fertilizers once every two weeks.

Sprekel planting

Good drainage is one of the prerequisites for a successful spreckel culture. The layer of pebbles, shards or expanded clay should be at least 3 cm. The pot must be selected taking into account the prospect of growth within three years, since sprekels sometimes painfully perceive damage to the roots during transplantation. The substrate is made up of soddy, humus, peat soil with the addition of baking powder (coarse-grained sand, perlite, vermiculite) to ensure good air exchange, since the root system reacts negatively to soil compaction. When planting, the bulb is deepened to half its height or a little more - the top must necessarily be above the surface of the substrate. Under the bottom it is useful to pour a layer of coarse sand.

rest period

Long and narrow leaves, appearing during or immediately after flowering, die off in the fall after a gradual cessation of watering. During the dormant period, which lasts until the end of winter, the bulbs are kept dry in pots, at a temperature of + 10-15 degrees. Watering is carefully resumed only after the appearance of the peduncle or the beginning of leaf growth.

More about sprekelia

The plant is usually propagated by daughter bulbs, which are separated during transplantation.

Of the diseases and pests, the greatest danger is stagonosporosis, or "red burn", a worm, a spider mite and a scale insect.

The majority of Sprekelia in cultivation is represented by the commercial clone Superba. The range also includes cultivars "Grandifiora" (flowers up to 15 cm), "Orient Red", "Peru", "High Priest" and others with flowers various shades red and pink tones. Breeders have bred hybrids with hippeastrum - hippeastrelia (Hippeastrelia) and gabranthus - sprekanthus (Sprekanthus).

Mikhail MANYAKOV, Head of the Indoor Plant Lovers Club Inflorescence

EUCOMIS: LANDING AND CARE

AT Western Europe, especially in Holland eukomis are very popular. They are ideal for planting in containers, pots and flowerpots as seasonal plants in well-lit rooms.

The name of this genus of bulbous from the Hyacinth family is translated from Greek as "beautiful tufts." It is not for nothing that flower growers call eukomis tufted lily and South African lily of the valley, and English name ananas-plant indicates a resemblance to a pineapple - a flower brush is crowned with a rosette of leaves (tuft).

The flowers do not open at the same time, creating a wave of flowering that runs through the inflorescence from the bottom up, which allows the plant to remain attractive for a long time. In nature, Eucomis grows in the foothills of South Africa, as well as in low-lying, marshy places. There are 16 species in the genus, all of them are decorative. found in culture eukomis autumn, two-color, wavy, dotted, etc.

I have been growing eucomis since 2004. First - autumn eucomis with yellow inflorescences and a pleasant smell of tomato brine (!), Later it acquired bulbs of a larger two-color eucomis with greenish-burgundy inflorescences.

Agricultural technology

I love these plants for the original long flowering, large juicy leaves, unpretentiousness in cultivation. The period from planting the bulb in a pot to the beginning of flowering is about two months. The plant is photophilous - south, southeast windows will do. I plant bulbs in late March-early April. Drainage is required in the pot (pebbles, expanded clay). Soil - a mixture of soddy soil, humus and sand (3: 2: 1) or ordinary garden soil mixed with sand (4:1).

It is better to take a large plastic pot for planting - the larger the volume, the more powerful the plant is formed. I tried to plant three bulbs in one wide pot, but the plants gave narrow, elongated leaves, small inflorescences. Watering - moderate in spring, plentiful in summer, but without stagnation of water in the pan. Water is better to take warm, settled. Transplant - every spring in fresh soil. Fertilizer for flowering plants can be used in spring and summer. I add "Agricola" (0.5 tablespoons per liter of water every 2 weeks). In summer, I often wipe the wide leaves with a damp sponge.

The plant is propagated by daughter bulbs, less often by seeds.

Seasons

Spring. I plant bulbs in which light sprouts are visible. I place the top at the level of the soil. First, a rosette of leaves emerges from the bulb. When the plant develops 6-8 leaves, the peduncle begins to emerge. Eucomis autumn flowers are whitish-yellow, which is why I call this species "pineapple candle". Eucomis bicolor flowers are original: greenish-white with burgundy edging and burgundy stamens. The leaves are speckled below, the peduncle is covered with burgundy spots. Indescribable beauty!

The flowering time of eukomis depends on the time of planting the bulbs. To prolong flowering, I plant them in several stages, from the end of March to the end of May. At early landing The first flowers appear in late spring.

Summer. In extreme heat in open sunny places, the leaves immediately lose turgor. I moisturize abundantly, after the flowers wither, I gradually limit watering. I cut off the peduncle when it dries completely. I take the pots out into the garden and put them in a bright place, I rarely water them. In rainy summers, the leaves of plants exposed to the garden can be damaged by slugs. I stop watering in September.

Autumn winter. When the leaves dry, I take out the bulbs from the pots, bring them into the house and dry them. I do not remove dry roots. I store the bulbs in a box with sand in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator at a low positive temperature. I don't moisturize.

Marina SPITSINA. Penza

EUCROSIA: PLANTING AND CARE

A few years ago, when I accidentally saw a package with an unfamiliar plant in a store, I bought several bulbs. When I got home, I began to figure out how to grow it. It turned out that this is a bulbous bulb from the Amaryllis family, rare in indoor collections. Since I found very little information, I had to grow eucrosia by trial and error.

peruvian lily

In nature, there are 8 types of Eucrosia (Eucrosia). This unusual and rarest plant in our latitudes comes from South America, first found in Peru in 1817, hence the name "Peruvian lily". Widely found in Ecuador.

Like many representatives of amaryllis, eucrosia forms a bulb. In nature, during a drought, a plant has a dormant period, so when growing at home, you should try to create a similar regimen. The rooms contain mainly two-color eucrosia (Eucrosia bicolor).

The plant blooms in late spring-early summer. First, a thin long peduncle appears, and only after that the leaves. original flowers with long stamens, resting on slender stems, unfortunately, do not live long. In order to enjoy flowering every year in spring and summer, the plant should be carefully looked after.

Eucrosia care

In winter, eucrosia is dormant. At this time, I keep it in dry soil, in a cool place with a temperature of + 10-12 degrees. In the middle of spring, I transplant, separating the onion babies, and do not water until the top of the peduncle appears.

I plant eucrosia in purchased soil with the addition of sand, several bulbs in one pot. The plant loves bright sunlight, so it stands on my southern windows, but I shade it from direct sunlight so that there are no burns on the foliage. In the summer, during the period of active vegetation, I water as the soil dries out, I feed Fertika a couple of times a season. With the advent of autumn, watering is reduced. The leaves of Eucrosia gradually wither and soon she again goes to rest, until the next season.

Elena KUZNETSOVA, Penza

EUCHARIS: LANDING AND CARE

One of the first plants that appeared in my house about twenty years ago was eucharis. For me, this is not just a beautiful houseplant, but my mother's favorite flower, which she simply called a lily. When I got to know him correct name, I was very pleased that he really turned out to be a lily - an Amazonian.

For a long time there were no problems with eucharis, it looked luxurious. A low but wide pot was full of bulbs, huge glossy leaves on high petioles adorned the plant all year round, and in spring and autumn 3-5 flower arrows appeared with snow-white fragrant flowers. I didn’t disturb the lily with transplants, I didn’t abuse fertilizers (yes, they didn’t really exist then), but when flower arrows appeared, I watered

plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (as my mother did). After flowering, reduce watering, allowing the soil to dry well.

Rain is not for him

The trouble came, as always, unexpectedly. About eight years ago, in the summer, I took the plant out into the garden, under the rain. Our summer is hot, the rains are warm, why not the tropics? And after a couple of days I had to leave on a business trip, eucharis remained in the garden. When I returned home a week later, I saw that the plant did not look very healthy, the leaves were grafted, some turned yellow. During my absence, it rained, the pot was on a pallet, and the soil was too wet. I let excess moisture drain, cut off yellow leaves and brought the plant into the house. A little more time passed, but there was no improvement, the leaves continued to turn yellow. It was necessary to take emergency measures.

rescue measures

First of all, it was necessary to check the roots. I cut off the rest of the leaves and took out the contents of the pot. Almost all the bulbs were covered in soft gray spots with pink edges, and there were no roots. Of the nineteen bulbs, only one was clean.

Of course, now I would try to save the less affected bulbs, cut to a clean cloth, treated with a fungicide, dried and planted in separate pots. But then I hurried to separate the only healthy bulb, washed it, treated it with Maxim's solution and planted it in a small pot in fresh soil.

Happy end

I didn’t water for a week, and then very carefully moistened the soil. About three months later, a new leaf appeared. A year later there were already three, and it took a transplant into a slightly larger stable pot. When transplanting, I saw that the bulb had grown, and the roots were clean and healthy. It took a few more years before the bulb gave birth and bloomed.

Eucharis now blooms twice a year, in April and October. It is not necessary to separate the children that have appeared. Amazon lily blooms profusely only in close company.

Valentina MIRONOVA, Bataysk, Rostov region Photo by Gennady KARCHEVSKY

PROBLEMS OF GROWING BULBS

Of course, each specific genus or species of bulbous plants has its own nuances in the content, as well as the difficulties that can be encountered. In general terms, some of them can be considered on the example of hippeastrum.

1. Bulbous Plants Don't Bloom

Bulbous plants may not bloom for many reasons. For example, if they were not provided with a rest period (keeping at a low temperature with or without watering). The plant may lack heat, sun and nutrition, or it may be affected by diseases and pests.

Create comfortable conditions for keeping, adjust care - light, heat, loose fertile soil, watering with warm water, regular fertilizing with complex fertilizer with trace elements. To stimulate all life processes, including flowering, you can treat the leaves with Bud, Ovary, Krezatsin, Zircon, Do-motsvet, etc. preparations.

2. Lower leaves turn yellow

If the rest of the leaves are sluggish, then most likely the plant is flooded, which is dangerous by the appearance of various rots. Between waterings, the soil should be allowed to dry out and it is important to use only warm water. You can treat the plant with immunostimulants ("Epin", "Zircon") and for prevention with some kind of biofungicide, for example, "Albit".

If the leaves are elastic, then when they turn yellow, the plant should be examined for pests. And if the bulb is healthy, the conditions are correct, then the yellowed lower leaves, in the absence of young growing ones, may indicate that it is simply preparing for rest. In this case, reduce watering to a minimum and remove the plant in a cool place.

3. The flowers have turned pale and do not stay on the plant for long, burns are visible on the leaves

These signs indicate an excess

direct sunlight in combination with insufficient ventilation (for example, on the windowsills of sunny windows in poorly ventilated rooms). The plant should be removed in partial shade or shaded and provided with good aeration.

4. Black buds

This can occur when kept in conditions of low temperature and light and high humidity soil and air (for example, a damp cold veranda window in a private house). It is urgent to change the conditions to more comfortable, water in moderation and only with warm water. Can be treated with anti-stress drugs.

5. Slow development

A possible reason is the lack of nutrition last season. Bulbs need to be fed not only during the flowering period, but until the dormant period itself. If spotting is observed on the leaves simultaneously with the suspension of growth, the plant should be examined for the presence of diseases or pests.

6. The bulb does not start growing a month after planting

Most likely, she does not have enough strength to “wake up” - the bulb has critically weakened (too dried up) due to an improperly organized rest period - too long, dry, hot, etc. You can try to reanimate it - remove all dry scales and soak in a growth stimulator (Krezatsin, Zircon, Epin), then plant it again. If after 2-3 weeks you do not see the result, then the bulb is no longer viable.

Tatyana KUSHNIKOV A, plant protection specialist, Novosibirsk

DISEASES AND PESTS OF BULBS

Pests and diseases not only cause houseplants great harm, reducing their decorative qualities, but can often lead to their death.

Experienced flower growers know that with careful and proper care plants become not only more beautiful, but also more resistant to pests and diseases. First of all, specimens whose immunity is weakened by unfavorable conditions of detention are affected: improper watering (especially overflowing with cold water), non-compliance with the light regime (the plants either do not have enough light, or too hot sun burns tender leaves), poor soil and insufficient nutrition, dry air and drafts. Often we ourselves bring uninvited guests into the house with a new plant.

bulbous pests

Bulb houseplants are often harmed by mealybugs, spider and onion mites, scale insects and false shields, as well as "omnivorous" aphids, occasionally thrips and whiteflies. Amaryllis mealybug (Pseudococcus amaryllidis) - small (1-3 mm) insects with an oval or elongated body, clusters of which can be found in the lower part of the leaves and even under the scales.

Females are very fertile and are protected by a wax coating on the surface of the body. It reliably protects the insect from chemicals contact action. Males are smaller than females, have a pair of transparent wings, do not live long and do not feed in adulthood. The larvae of the first age ("tramps") are very mobile, quickly spreading over neighboring plants. Amaryllis mealybug harms only hippeastrums and amaryllis. Mealybug(seaside) (Pseudococcus maritimus), unlike amaryllis, does not damage the bulbs, forming colonies only at the base of the leaves. This pest is polyphagous and, in addition to bulbs, can be found on citrus fruits, cacti, coleus, and many other indoor plants. Outwardly and according to the development cycle, this pest is similar to the amaryllis mealybug.

worms they feed on the sap of plants, as a result of which the growth and development of the latter stops. With a strong defeat, the leaves die off, the plant may die. Scale insects (lat. Diaspididae). A common and dangerous pest of indoor plants. Species vary in size and coloration. An attentive flower grower can find out about the defeat of the scale insect quite easily at the very beginning of the spread of the pest - a sticky liquid (pad) appears on the leaves, which these insects secrete. With a strong lesion, a sooty fungus settles on the pad, the leaves and peduncles turn yellow and dry prematurely.

Harm larvae and adult females. Adult insects are visible to the naked eye as brownish or greenish plaques about 2 mm in diameter, they are immobile. Larvae (tramps) are greenish or slightly pinkish, small, very mobile, quickly spread over the infected plant and all neighboring ones. Scale insects mainly affect zephyranthes, krinums, wallots, clivias and hymenocallis. False shields, or coccids (lat. Coccidae) differ from scale insects in that their shield or shell is devoid of a wax layer, more convex, is dried skin dead female protecting eggs or larvae. They are located on peduncles, petioles and veins of leaves. The pest is most often found on clivia, amaryllis and hippeastrums.

The development of scale insects, false scale insects and mealybugs is facilitated by dry hot air, dust on leaves, heavy soil, insufficient nutrition and watering.

To fight worms and scale insects flower growers often try to use improvised means, for example, infusions of some plants, green and laundry soap. But all this is ineffective, because these insects are protected by a shield and do not even respond to contact pesticides. Against them, it is recommended to use systemic insecticides that act by getting into the juice of plants - "Aktara", "Biot-lin", "Iskra Zolotaya", "Commander", "Sonet +", "Bison", etc. These drugs are diluted according to instructions and spill them over the soil in the pot. If the insect infestation is severe, you can additionally spray the plants with a prepared solution - against stray larvae. The preparation "Doctor" (8 briquette arrows) is even easier to use - just deepen the briquette arrow into the soil at a distance of 2-3 cm from the stem of the plant and water well. The protective effect lasts for at least two months.

Onion mite (Rhizoglyphus echinopus) polyphagous and damages most bulbous plants, as well as plants with rhizomes, tubers and other succulent underground organs. Hippeastrum is most harmful. This is a soil mite about 1 mm in size, yellowish-white in color, translucent. Larvae and adults are harmful, which eat away the bottom of the bulbs, roots and scales - both during the growth period and during the dormant period during storage. Plants stop growing, leaves turn yellow and die, bulbs rot and do not hold well in the soil. Spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) well known to houseplant lovers. Of the bulbs, he prefers zephyranthes, wallot and hippeastrum.

When infected with a spider mite, white dots appear on the leaf surface, which eventually turn into yellowish spots. At the base of the leaves you can see a white thin cobweb. Leaves lose turgor, wither and die. Ticks are small (about 0.5 mm), translucent, yellowish-greenish. Dry indoor air and stressful situations contribute to the rapid spread of the pest.

Among the mites that harm indoor bulbs, you can sometimes find a red flat tick, or Greenhouse flatboat (Brevipalpus obovatus). This mite differs from the spider mite in its smaller size, red color and the fact that it does not form cobwebs. The main sign of damage to plants with fleshy leaves is a finely split surface of the upper part of the leaf blade. To combat ticks Apply acaricides or insect-acaricides. These are "Fitoverm", "Akarin", "Agravertin", "Kleshchevit", "Aktellik" (less preferable, since the 2nd class of danger to humans). New generation drugs have proven themselves well: Bankol, Oberon, Apollo (against eggs and larvae), Nissoran, Sunmite. They last longer on the surface of the leaves, have a longer protective period and a low (3-4) hazard class for humans. These drugs can be purchased mainly through online stores.

Also harm bulbous: aphids- small sedentary translucent insects that prefer shoots and buds; thrips- dark small mobile insects with a spindle-shaped body; whitefly- small winged insects with white waxy wings. These insects often get in the warm season from the street, and they like most indoor plants. Therefore, it is important to inspect your plants regularly and wash the leaves periodically. Well, if they “missed it”, and the pests multiply greatly, then the vast majority of systemic and contact insecticides work well against them. Only when buying, give preference to drugs that are safer for humans with a 3-4 hazard class. Against whiteflies and mushroom mosquitoes, whose larvae can damage the bulbs of weakened plants, glue colored traps can be used.

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More often flower growers plant their favorite spring flowers in flower beds, in flower beds, directly into the ground. But, as we well know, all this beautiful variety of bulbous flowers in the garden: crocuses, tulips, daffodils, after its bright but short flowering, leaves untidy withered leaves on the surface of the earth. Because of this, you have to dig up bulbous flowers in order to plant summers in their place. This is not always convenient. Let's discuss another option for planting bulbs - in containers or flower pots.

Bulb flowers in pots and containers are very convenient way landscaping the veranda, terrace, courtyard and curbs of concrete paths. Lush blooming tulips in flowerpots and tubs will bring bright colors to any courtyard.

In order for us to be able to admire the flowering of tulips, daffodils and other early spring flowers planted in flower pots in the spring, planting should be carried out in the fall - in October or November.

How to plant bulbous flowers in autumn in pots: together or separately?

First you need to decide how you plan to plant bulbs of different types: together or separately? The simplest way is different types bulbous flowers planted in separate containers or pots. So it will be easier to create new flower arrangements from them, just put one type of plant with another. Also, this method of planting prevents the spread of a fungal disease from one plant to another.

But at great desire you can arrange the so-called mix, that is, mixed landings. To do this, in one sufficiently large container, 2-3 types of bulbous flowers are planted in layers, which in the spring will bloom sequentially one after another. More often for such flowering mixes pick up daffodils, tulips and crocuses. The depth of planting the bulbs and the sequence of their planting in the container directly depends on the flowering sequence of each species.

In the photo you can see what it looks like

bulb processing

Before planting, be sure to treat the bulbs with antifungal drugs

Once you have decided what and how you will plant, planting material should be processed to prevent fungal infection of the bulbs. To do this, the purchased bulbs must be soaked for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide.

Planting bulbs in pots

Bulbs prepared in this way are planted horizontally in pots at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. Bulb planting depth for daffodils is 12-15 cm, 7-10 cm for tulips, 3-5 cm for crocuses and hyacinths.

The planted bulbs are watered abundantly with water so that the water begins to flow out of the drainage hole. Sprinkle on top of the planting with sand or sawdust. To avoid premature germination, the pots should be covered with light-tight material and taken to the storage site.

Storing bulbous flowers in winter

In order for the bulbs to germinate, they need a cool place. It can be any outbuilding, or for example a cellar, where the temperature in winter will be around 3-8 ° C. For a short time, the temperature can drop below zero, but this is an exception. The temperature for rooting is 5-10°C. First, pots with planted onions are left in a warm place for 7-10 days, where they take root, and then sent to a cool place, for about 2-3 months.

In the spring, plantings are brought into a warm room. By this time, the sprouts, as a rule, are already hatching. After the temperature rises, the sprouts begin to grow intensively and after 2-3 weeks flowering begins.

When the temperature is above zero in the open air, you can take your planted flowers outside. At this time, the main thing is to water your plants on time. And of course, it would be nice to fertilize. How to feed bulbous flowers? feed universal fertilizer for flowering plants, it is better in liquid form, so it will quickly penetrate the root system of the plant.

For more beautiful flowering, place the planted flowers in a well-lit area so that they do not stretch. The optimum temperature for flowering is 10-19 degrees. In a hotter place, such as in a residential area, flowering will last much less.

So, if you have done all this work and taken care of the appropriate conditions, then already at the beginning of spring, in the first days of March, you will surprise all your friends with the bright colors of the first spring flowers that will delight everyone, giving the feeling of the long-awaited spring.

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How to grow bulbous flowers at home. Bulbous home flowers: a variety of species

What flowers are planted for distillation

Forcing tulips by March 8

Tulip bulbs for forcing

When to plant tulips for distillation

Forcing tulips at home

Distillation of hyacinths

Distillation of hyacinths by March 8

Distillation of hyacinths at home

forcing crocuses

Distillation of crocuses by March 8

Forcing crocuses at home

Forcing daffodils

When to plant daffodils for forcing

lily forcing

When to plant lilies for distillation

Forcing lilies at home

Preparatory work with "mordant"

Planting bulbs in pots

Stratification - cold storage

The secrets of caring for bulbs in pots

Tulips. Growing at home

Daffodils. Growing at home

Hyacinths. Growing at home

AMARYLLIS: PLANTING AND CARE

Accommodation and boarding

seasonal cycle

Reproduction of amaryllis

Possible difficulties

AMARCRINUM: LANDING AND CARE

BOVIEA: LANDING AND CARE

Peculiarities

Bovia care

VALLOTA: LANDING AND CARE

Long awaited acquisition

Wallot transplant

About flowering

rest period

GEMANTHUS: LANDING AND CARE

Hemanthus: care

Hemanthus transplant

Hemanthus reproduction

Possible difficulties

HIPPEASTRELIA: LANDING AND CARE

Features of hippeastrelia

Planting and substrate for hippeastrelia

Watering and fertilizing

Hippeastrelia: care

rest period

Hippeastrelia flowering

DRIMIOPSIS: LANDING AND CARE

Dating history

Survive in any conditions

Easy care

ZEPHYRANTHES: LANDING AND CARE

Zephyranthes Care

Zephyranthes transplant

reproduction

Diversity

KRINUM: LANDING AND CARE

How to distinguish from others

LEDEBURIA: LANDING AND CARE

Ledebury care

Reproduction of ledeburia

Possible difficulties

Diversity

SCADOXUS: LANDING AND CARE

View features

Diversity

Sweetbite - care

Sweetbite reproduction

SPREKELIA: LANDING AND CARE

Features of the genus

Sprekelia: care

Sprekel planting

rest period

More about sprekelia

EUCOMIS: LANDING AND CARE

Agricultural technology