How to prune trees so they don't grow big. Pruning fruit trees in spring

Without timely and proper pruning of trees, it is quite difficult to form correct crown and achieve good yields. Many beginner gardeners are intimidated by this procedure, but there is nothing complicated in it. In this article, we will tell you how and when to prune trees.

When to prune trees

Pruning is best done in late winter - early spring, when the leaves have not yet appeared on the trees.

Note: if you notice dried branches on a tree, you do not need to wait for the right time, they can be cut at any time.

If a we are talking about fruit trees, you can distinguish dried branches during the flowering period, they simply will not have flowers.

How to prune large trees

It is not recommended to prune large trees on your own, as this is associated with a risk of injury. In this case, it is better to invite specialists. Large trees do not require annual pruning.

How to prune small trees

Pruning small trees allows you to form a neat crown, as well as provide better air circulation, access sunlight. A properly pruned tree will be healthier.

Note: make sure you are using a clean and sharp pruner. If the secateurs are not treated after each tree, fungus and other diseases can be transferred from one plant to another.

First of all, remove all dried and diseased branches. You should not make a cut close to the main branch, but you also do not need to leave a knot that is too large. Below is an example of a correct cut.

You also need to cut off all the crossing branches and those that prevent others from growing normally. If the purpose of pruning is to give the crown a certain shape, step back often and control the process so as not to trim too much.

How to prune fruit trees

When pruning fruit trees there is a specificity. The main purpose of such a procedure is not to shape the crown, but to provide highest yield. The fruit tree should be as compact as possible, preferably leaving only the healthiest and strongest branches.

You also need to remember to pick off some fruits if there are too many of them. Some experts even say that out of every 20 fruits, only one should be left. But here everything is individual, and you need to act according to the circumstances.

Trim trees at the right time, following correct technique, and your garden will look great and delight you with a generous harvest.

Original article in English.

In this article we will talk about how to properly form trees and shrubs. How to avoid uprooting fruit trees through rejuvenation: pruning, thinning and shortening the crown.

Looking at beautiful strong trees, without a single leaf on the ground, many believe that the owner was lucky with the choice of variety or he uses some special preparations that allow him to grow a healthy crop. Actually, important point in gardening is correct handling soil and annual pruning. Her goals:

• provide access to light and air to all branches, which will allow the tree to resist diseases and insects;
• timely remove old branches that will break under the weight of the fruit, and weak barren stems;
• achieve an annual harvest, given that pome species (pears and apples) correct pruning fruit within a year.

Timely pruning is the key to a rich harvest

According to the seasons, there are two types of pruning: summer and winter.

Winter pruning is done with the onset of cold weather (but not frost), when sap flow stops, and in early spring while the trees are still dormant. All the main trimming procedures fall on this period.

Summer pruning is done during the growing season of plants. This is the removal of excess green shoots and tops, which is carried out without harm to the plant.

In the photo above, we see new branches that began to stretch in the spring. They can be removed in the summer, as they will not bear fruit. This pruning technique can solve specific task- free the tree from unnecessary work, without harm to the plant.

Basic pruning techniques

The formation of the crown begins with the removal of all branches that have stretched inwards, up and down over the summer.

In the photo we see that the branches are intertwined with each other, the skeletal trunk consists of two parts. Such a tree should be pruned in winter.

The more “ruthlessly” we cut off the extra branches, the more high-quality fruits we will get when harvesting. This is an important part of pruning a tree.

The main purpose of pruning (shortening) full-fledged, at first glance, branches that are considered superfluous is visible in the next photo.

Branches with well-developed buds had to be shortened by half. In this case, the fruits pull the stems down and fall off, the supply of nutrients to the entire tree is disrupted.

How to cut branches

Experienced gardeners distinguish three main methods of cutting.

Large branches are cut with a garden saw, exactly along the annular influx.

Small branches are cut with secateurs, determining the correct place for the cut - on the ring.

The cutting line of branches that do not have an annular influx is determined visually by dividing the trunk into two lines - parallel to the trunk and perpendicular to the axis of the branch to be cut. The cut should be done along the bisector of the resulting angle.

The breaking of shoots and the removal of buds are also referred to as tenderloin. The procedure is carried out in the spring, when the kidneys begin to fill up. Then you can see which of them will uselessly thicken the crown. They also include tops - kidneys growing from the trunk. They can be removed by hand along with pieces of wood. Minor wounds formed in this case “heal” without additional treatment.

Root growth slows down the activity of tree development. It must be removed several times a season. Above-ground pruning is ineffective, because the shortened sprouts, supplied with moisture and warmed by the sun, begin to stretch again. Its growth will stop for a long time if you remove upper layer soil above the root system, and cut the plant from the root.

How to shorten trees

Tree pruning is the same pruning, divided into several steps:

• pruning on the kidney
• pruning on a stump
• cropping "for translation"
• pinching

Pruning on the kidney- this is the shortening of the stem in a place where there is a healthy bud, in order to change the direction of growth of the branch. It should be located on the part of the stem where you want to direct the future branch. The cut is made with a sharp pruner. It is important to choose the right cutting direction.

Pinching or removal of excess shoots is applied in the summer. After removing the green top, the growth of the branch stops, and the remaining part of the branch turns into a skeletal branch, which will subsequently bear fruit.

Shortening the branch to "translation" means pruning a part of the sprouts on a branched branch, leaving only the one that will “translate” the new trunk in the right direction.

Pruning on a stump used for rejuvenation of shrubs or "dwarf" trees. For fruit trees, such shortening "to the stump" is unacceptable, except in cases where it is required to re-graft on healthy tree, which does not bring high-quality fruits, cuttings of another or several varieties.

The injection site should be lubricated garden pitch, pull off with electrical tape and wrap with a woolen cloth. The most suitable time for grafting another variety is spring, summer, early autumn, while sap flow continues.

Pruning of young trees from 1 to 3 years

In young seedlings, it is necessary to cut off new shoots until the trunk stretches to a meter in length.

The process of pruning young trees is to allow the trunk to grow stronger and form. The first 2 years form only 2-3 skeletal branches growing at an angle of 40 degrees relative to the leading trunk. The procedure is repeated in autumn and spring. Shoots should not exceed 50-70 cm. In the third year, the tree begins to form in the same way as adults.

Pruning and shaping shrubs for rejuvenation

Cutting technology fruit bushes individual for each plant.

Evergreens are shortened as the shoots grow, giving the bushes a certain shape.

Fruit and berry bushes - according to a specially designed scheme. Many species need to be cut out in the fall "on a stump" and wrapped on winter period, and some are cut to certain sizes. The main procedure for rejuvenating shrubs is spring pruning. It is aimed at freeing the bush from excess shoots intersecting with the main branches, thinning the stems for light access and providing oxygen access.

Tillage after pruning

A properly treated plant requires additional feeding. In autumn, the soil in the garden is mulched with compost or manure. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are required. In summer - potassium-phosphorus supplements.

A well-groomed garden for a long time increases the duration of fruiting, and proper pruning contributes to the development of strong and juicy fruits.

Planting a seedling in the ground does not guarantee that the garden will grow lush and fruitful. All crops grown on the site require constant attention of the owner, regardless of the season.

Pruning fruit trees is one of the most important steps in gardening. It allows you to form the correct crown, regulate growth and fruiting. In addition, proper pruning of fruit trees can prolong their productivity. You will find all the necessary recommendations in our article.

Proper pruning of fruit trees

Pruning refers to the removal of dry and damaged branches and shoots. In addition, in the process, extra branches are cut out, which thicken the crown and reduce the quality of the crop (Figure 1).

Why carry out

Proper pruning also performs a sanitary function. Getting rid of excess branches helps prevent diseases, and a rejuvenating procedure can extend the life of the plant.

Figure 1. Types of pruning fruit crops

It is important to choose the right time to remove branches. It is best to do this in autumn or early spring, when the sap has not yet begun to flow in the trunk. At the same time, autumn thinning is possible only in regions with a mild climate, since severe frosts can damage the crop at the cut site.

Methods and techniques (shortening, thinning)

There are two main cropping methods: thinning and shortening (Figure 2). Each of them has its own characteristics.

Figure 2. Trimming techniques: shortening and thinning

Shortening involves the partial removal of branches and shoots. For example, if 1/5 or ¼ of the shoot is cut off, such shortening is called weak, when 1/3 or ½ is removed, it is medium, and from half to 2/3 is called strong.

In the process of shortening, rejuvenation is also carried out. For a light branch, cut off an increase of 2-3 recent years, for a moderate one, a 4-6-year increase is removed, and for a strong one, almost the entire part of the skeletal branches is removed.

Note: By shortening, you can stimulate the growth of buds and shoots, as well as make the fruiting branches thicker. However, shortening too much can cause the plant to weaken and yields will decrease.

Thinning allows you to remove extra branches from the crown. Using this method, you can increase the size of the fruit and make the tree stronger and more productive. This reduces the number of buds that only consume the juices of the culture, but do not produce fruits. Juice flows faster from the roots to the leaves, the culture grows faster and bears fruit more intensively.

More useful information you will find about pruning in the video.

Trimming types

Depending on the purpose for which extra branches are cut, there are several types of pruning. For example, using this procedure, you can form a crown of the desired size and shape, extend the fruiting period of a tree, or prevent the development of a disease.

Each type has its own characteristics, although it is carried out using the same garden tools and techniques.

To form a crown

Such a procedure is called forming. It is especially relevant for small household plots. With the help of these manipulations, you can create a compact crown, while maintaining high level fruiting (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Formative cutting technique

Removing branches to form a crown allows you to give the plant a suitable silhouette. In addition, the formed skeletal part becomes more resistant to stress. Depending on the timing of the formative pruning, growth can be slowed down or increased. If branches are removed in February, growth will be more active, and cutting in early spring will slow down the development of the culture.

Regulating fruiting

Most often, it is carried out at the end of winter or early spring, but in regions with a mild climate, branches can be removed in the fall.

The main purpose of regulating pruning is to preserve the contours of the crown and to maintain optimum illumination of the branches. In addition, skeletal branches are strengthened in the process. They are not overloaded with young shoots, and the fruits become larger and ripen evenly.

Restorative

In the process, branches and shoots with mechanical or any other damage are removed. As a rule, they are removed in the spring, in the process of checking the garden after winter.

Some of the branches may freeze slightly, so they need to be shortened to healthy wood. Also cut off all shoots with signs of disease or damage. This will preserve the viability and fruiting of the culture.

Anti-aging

It is required for old trees, which, due to long growth, stop or significantly reduce fruiting. In the process, all old branches that form too small fruits or not enough ovaries are removed (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Features of anti-aging pruning

Anti-aging pruning stimulates the growth of new branches. As a rule, the annual growth (about 10-15 cm) is removed in the process, which stimulates the growth of the kidneys and increases the yield.

Terms of pruning fruit trees (when is it better to do)

Wondering when is the best time to prune orchard, we can say that optimal time autumn, winter and spring are considered, when the movement of juice in the trunk stops and the plant is at rest.

In regions with severe winters, it is recommended to remove branches in autumn or spring so that the cut point is not damaged by frost and the tree does not die. Consider the features of this procedure by season.

autumn

Experienced gardeners advise pruning horticultural crops in the fall only when emergency. For example, stone fruits do not tolerate such an event very well and may even die without having time to get stronger before frost.

However, these warnings do not apply to sanitary cleaning. If you find diseased or damaged branches, they must be removed immediately to save the rest of the plant.

The author of the video will talk about the main features of autumn pruning.

in winter

In severe frosts, the wood becomes very fragile, so it is not recommended to remove it. In fact, this is the only limitation, because in winter all plants are at rest and branches can be removed freely if the weather is relatively warm and calm.

Figure 5. Pruning an orchard in winter

The main advantage of the procedure is that the tree experiences less stress and the wound heals faster. In addition, on branches devoid of leaves, damage is much more visible (Figure 5).

spring

It is believed that pruning can be started at any time with the onset of spring. Actually this is not true. It is better to start the procedure when the sap flow has not yet begun, but the tree is already ready to wake up. In this case, the culture will not experience severe stress, and the wound will heal faster (Figure 6).

Figure 6 spring pruning orchard

Since the timing of the removal of damaged branches and growth in different cultures differ, the gardener gets the opportunity to plan the work so as to provide all the trees with the necessary care.

It is advisable to start work on a quiet windless day at a temperature not lower than -5 degrees. All wounds are covered with garden pitch or yellow clay to speed up the formation of a colus.

Summer

Summer Special attention given to seedlings. On them, you need to remove the tops of the growing shoots to form a crown.

However, when diseases are detected, infected branches are removed without waiting for the cessation of sap flow. If this is not done, the disease can quickly spread throughout the garden. All remote branches should be burned immediately.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

The most important requirement for pruning fruit trees in winter is the absence of severe frost. If the air temperature is below -8 degrees, work cannot be carried out.

Note: Despite the fact that in winter the plants are at rest and tolerate stress more easily after removal of branches, on severe frost the wound will take too long to heal and may lead to the death of the entire culture.

However, in winter it is much easier to detect damage, since the crown is completely devoid of foliage and defects become more noticeable. It also allows you to make the cut more even and accurate. It is better to remove thin branches with secateurs, and file thick ones on both sides so that the cut is even and healthy wood is not injured.

Choice of cropping tools

To remove branches, you need to use special tools. Back to main garden tools include (Figure 7):

• Secateurs- it is better to choose a regular model, and not a ratchet tool, since it will have to be pressed several times to cut. Using a simple pruner is much easier and more convenient.
• Hacksaw with gaps between teeth. This design will prevent the accumulation of sawdust and keep inventory clean. For gardening, only a special hacksaw is chosen, which is not recommended for use for other work, so that the blade does not become dull.
• Air sector- a tool with a telescopic handle to which the blades are attached. To make a cut, it is enough to use a special lever. Such a tool will be very useful for cutting the upper branches.

Figure 7. Basic garden pruning tools

In addition to inventory, you need to buy garden pitch - a special ointment that is used to cover wounds on branches for faster healing.

Continuation. The beginning of the topic in “AiF. At the cottage» № 5, 2016

lower your height

Gardeners usually dream of compact fruit trees. But most adult apple and pear trees in our dachas are giants. But the height of these plants can be controlled!

Behind small trees much easier to care for and easier to harvest. Small-sized crowns are well lit and ventilated, which has a positive effect on the fruits and health of the tree.

Target

By pruning and shaping, reduce tree growth by about 30%:

• Adult pear, apple tree on a vigorous rootstock - up to 3.5-4 m
• Apple tree on a medium-sized rootstock - up to 3.0-3.5 m
• Cherry and plum - up to 2.5-3 m

accelerators

If a young tree has already grown to the indicated limits, then it is necessary to stop its upward aspiration. It is necessary to cut off its top with a transfer to a good side branch at the right height (for example, in an apple tree on a medium-sized rootstock, this will be about 2.5 m from the ground). To maintain the proportions of the crown, the remaining branches are shortened by approximately ⅓ of the length into lateral branches or buds directed outward.

If the side branches of the tree different sizes, long ones are shortened to the size of short ones. The cut in this case is made on a branch or bud pointing upwards.

Adult brutes

If it is necessary to reduce the crown of a mature (about 10 years old) apple or pear tree, then select 5-6 successful main branches, evenly looking in different directions in the form of three tiers, and remove the top of the tree (shown in red in the figure) above the upper side branch. After that, the crown needs thinning - large branches growing vertically on the lower branches are either completely cut out or transferred to horizontal branches. Then they take care that the lower branches rise a little and do not lie on the ground - they are shortened to the side ones growing upwards.

Veterans-bogatyrs

Decrease in the crown of old running trees it is better to carry out in several stages, cutting out large branches once a year or two. For the first time, the top and ⅓ of the main branches are shortened, the next - half of the remaining ones, and finally - everything else. Branches growing vertically in the crown are removed or transferred to the side. The lower tier, as in the previous case, is shortened to the “sleeves” directed upwards, and they, in turn, are transferred to the horizontal branches located above.

No - sharp corners

Do you have or have there been apple or pear trees in your garden that look like "figures" like poplars and are almost as low-yielding? Or maybe the trunk of one of the fruit pets almost split in half? It is up to you to prevent such disappointments.

Branches extending from the trunk at an angle of 45-65 ° feel best. If the angle is sharper, then the strength of such a “knot” sharply decreases, and it can suddenly break at any moment. Branches extending at a very sharp angle (less than 30°) often begin to compete with the trunk and thicken the crown.

On the other hand, approaching a horizontal position (an angle of more than 75°) is also undesirable for branches, since entire “groves” of unnecessary vertical shoots appear on them. In addition, such branches under the weight of the crop often fall on the lower tiers or on the ground, or even break.

If the angle is sharper than 45-65°, then the strength of such a “knot” decreases sharply. Photo: Nina Belyavskaya

Target

Remove sources from the crown possible problems- branches extending from the trunk at an acute angle (less than 40 °).

What to do?

Each angle of deviation of the main branches from the trunk must be controlled throughout the life of the garden. In young trees, single unsuccessful branches located in the center of the crown are cut to the base. If the tree is “angular” in nature and it is impossible to remove all the branches, then the branches are not cut out, but bent with the help of stretch marks or weights. In the case when this is also problematic, it is better to shorten such branches, redirecting them to a kidney or a branch that “looks” at the periphery of the crown.

If you have "missed" the sharp corners and the tree has been for many years, then eliminate the problematic branches one by one, one in 1-3 years - otherwise the entire trunk will be wounded.

Correct angle. Photo: Nina Belyavskaya

Add air

If the owners of a fruit tree do not prune at all or do it incorrectly, then in many cases its crown thickens over time and turns into impenetrable bushes. This is not only ugly and inconvenient for harvesting fruits - a thickened tree grows worse, bears fruit poorly, gets sick more often and more severely.

Target

Ideally, each good thread crowns should literally "bathe in the sun."

How to achieve?

From the first years of a tree's life, you need to try to make sure that large branches do not grow parallel to each other on different height. To do this, some of them are removed or cut into lateral branches or buds directed in different directions. It is better to cut underdeveloped, bare, damaged, crossing and vertically growing branches. Sometimes it is more profitable to remove one large bough than a dozen small ones, because numerous wounds in the crown can stimulate the growth of vertical shoots that thicken the crown.

If you have a running mature tree, which has not been touched with a saw and pruner for years, do not try to fix it in one go. Reduce the crown, and transfer the bulk of the thinning to next year. Divide measures to correct very old trees by at least 3 years.

No saw needed?

One spring I complained to my uncle experienced gardener that I can’t wait for fruiting from a five-year-old pear. He advised to transfer the branches growing at an acute angle to a horizontal position.

Under each pear branch, I drove a strong peg into the ground and pulled them down with ropes. Stretch marks removed late autumn. BUT next spring my surprise and joy knew no bounds! My pear blossomed profusely and gave the first fruits.

Since then, I have been doing stretch marks on all young trees. And I start doing this in the second or third year after planting. I want to warn you that it is necessary to bend the branches very carefully. The first attempt led to the fact that I broke off the branch from zeal. Now I use hemp twine. It is convenient to work with him, and he is almost invisible among the summer greenery. I remove the stretch marks only when the branches become stronger and take the position I need.

A simple technique helps to speed up fruiting for a couple of years. On horizontal branches, the harvest of the next season is more actively laid. In addition, the trees are lower and spreading, it is more convenient to care for them.

Irina Kudrina, Voronezh

The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop. However positive results can only be achieved when pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly, in a timely manner. The article will focus on the correct pruning of fruit trees.

When to prune fruit trees

For each of the species and age of fruit trees, there is its own - the most suitable period for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be conditionally divided into several.

• autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most auspicious time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, that the healing of cut sites is more difficult. In addition, when pruning at low temperatures, it is possible to freeze the shoots in this way, which will lead to their damage and impaired fruiting.
• spring-summer. It starts from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. This is the best time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal guidelines, before proceeding with pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of at least important factors, such as:

• site location;
• wind speed;
• the presence of precipitation;
• temperature below 0°;

Fruit Tree Pruning Tools

Fundamental during the period of pruning trees are not only seasonal and weather but also the quality of the instruments. The requirements for them are quite simple, they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What may be needed for trimming.

• Secateurs. Refers to a variety of garden scissors. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be easy and convenient to use, since usually pruning one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action of the ratchet mechanism, it will depend on how much force you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades must have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, which will cause additional work.

• garden saw. The blades should have good sharpening and be shaped narrower towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can create additional damage to the trunk.
• long pruner. Differs from manual option with a long handle. This shape is great for cutting off processes that are slightly higher than human height, without the use of additional tools in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the height of the cut.

In the work of pruning trees, additional tools may be needed.

• Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

• Ladder or stepladder will form the crown of a fruit tree.
• Overalls, supplemented with protective gloves, will relieve unnecessary injuries during work.
• Glasses will be needed at the time of sawing, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Technique for shaping and pruning fruit trees

From a technical point of view, there are three types of tree pruning.

• "On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction of branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are cut in this way with a cut over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruner blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cutting angle should be as close to 45° as possible so that the kidney is not "truncated". In addition, it is necessary to avoid an excessively sharp cut, in which case the left kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual process may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

• "On the ring." Such pruning is done only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take away some of the nutrients that can be distributed among the branches that are more promising in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with a pruner, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch “on a ring”. Do not leave an excessively long process and trim flush with the bark. Pruning is considered correct along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by the influx of bark at the junction of the shoot with the trunk.

• "On the side branch." This type of pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. There is a complete pruning of incapacitated branches, due to which all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to various technological aspects trimming, there are also types of this process that determine further development fruit tree and its yield:

• Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown, as a result, the necessary density and shape should be formed. The most successful time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active juice movement, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be as fruitful as possible. Late formative pruning will cause a delay in the development of the plant or the absence of a crop as such.

Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, during the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame that is resistant to any load, which will withstand even the most difficult crop.

• Regulatory. Suitable for an actively developing tree that needs minimal adjustment. In proper condition, the illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots should be maintained. Potentially good time: February-April or August-September. In any of these periods, a fresh cut is quickly tightened and does not release tree sap.
• anti-aging the view is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. Such pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the vitality of a fading tree. Even if the "adult" tree gives good harvest, he still needs a rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening the adnexal buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be considered in order to avoid harming the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

• Spring is the most productive and successful season for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the period of final temperature change after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly until the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° is ideal. Pruning of fruit trees should be carried out in the following sequence:
• Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after that you can cut young seedlings. The reason lies in different periods awakening of the kidneys.
• If apple trees grow on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, this tree will not suffer after pruning, unlike others. But it is better to cut pear and cherry closer to May.

• Regarding shoots, pruning starts with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as insects that have intersections with others, these are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
• Large fruit branches are cut down only with the option: “on the ring”. The cut point must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - this way it will drag on faster and will not harm the entire tree.

summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees can be carried out in summer period. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight adjustment regarding branches damaged by frost, in case they were not detected in early spring. Indeed, during the period active flowering much easier to spot flaws.

In addition to stripping incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

• Pinching (clothespin) - the process of cutting off the upper part of the branch. The young shoot is easily cut off garden shears or secateurs.

• Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds give young shoots and it is enough to break them. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without the intervention of garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the place of the cliff, it happens faster and less painfully.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

• The most favorable period for carrying out the procedure for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The main purpose of autumn pruning is sanitation, that is, the removal of excess dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, wood pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to a healthy part of the fruit tree.
• Among other things, autumn pruning trees allows you to create the maximum effective conditions for ventilation and crown lighting. And the distribution of tree sap on healthy branches will increase the yield for next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large sections must be treated with a special protective composition, this will favorably affect the speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.

Fruit tree pruning schemes

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can come to the aid of a non-specialist in this matter.

• First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - by removing the thin forks of branches in the form of "crow's feet".

• Next, you should get rid of the crossing of the branches, for this it is necessary to cut the shoots directed towards the soil.
• Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: cut off the branches directed towards it and the young shoots.
• The formation of the crown is done by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developed tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

• Since the landing young seedling into the ground and before fruiting, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure the growth of the crown - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches are pruned, thickening the crown array. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower ones by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruitful in a few years.
• Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. The most successful period for their pruning is considered late autumn. After leaf fall, all damaged and extra shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also to achieve high-quality air exchange and crown lighting.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

• Forming the crown of new plantations is quite easy, the main thing is to follow all the rules. But with regard to old fruit trees, then certain steps should be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire crop on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown, the fruits are relatively small size and appear irregularly.
• The painstaking process of revitalizing old fruit trees has been carried out for several years, and consists of the following activities.
• In the first year, the crown is cut several levels down and only with south side tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
• In the next season, it is mandatory to trim the "tops" formed during the previous procedure. Otherwise they will absorb nutrients, so necessary living part of the tree. The removal process is performed "on the ring", while the season does not affect the quality of the procedure.

• In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is pruned, and then the "wolves" are cleared.
• The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh sections do not rot and pests cannot start in them.

There are certain nuances, observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing it for the first time.

• When carrying out the most rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a frequency of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
• If you want to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.
• Do not touch the frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
• When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise you may end up with an oversaturated branch or an overly thinned crown.
• When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave adjoining branches close to it, i.e. at an acute angle.
• It is important to remember that horizontal branches differ in the maximum level of fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees, to regulate the amount of the crop.

• Sections with large diameters need to be processed special composition: garden pitch or heteroauxin - this will speed up the healing of the plant. And here is the usage oil paint not recommended as a coating for sections.
• Young trees should be pruned as little as possible - only for the purpose of crown formation. Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration in fruit-bearing properties.

The painstaking work that is associated with pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time worthy harvest fruits. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process, in fact, requires the performer not only to comply with the technology, but also to be careful.