Heating stoves for home drawings. Laying brick ovens: the pros and cons of the material, the choice of bricks, the location of the stove, the stages of work and the rules for further operation

Brick ovens, even the smallest ones, have many advantages in front of metal heaters.

Iron stoves heat up very quickly, but also cool quickly without heating the air. Brick mini oven gives off heat for a long time and maintains a comfortable temperature for several hours.

This heating structure can be made independently, without resorting to the help of a professional stove-maker.

Schemes of brick mini-ovens

Small ovens occupy a small area, the dimensions of their bases hesitate from 50 to 70 centimeters wide and up to 65-100 cm long. Height heating facility is from 1.5 to 2.3 meters. A hob, oven, hot water tank are built into the oven. Stove makers have also developed appliances designed only for home heating.

small heating structure

This is the simplest heating structure. Let's analyze the model of the following sizes:

width grounds - 51 cm;
length bases (depth) — 89 cm;
height — 238 cm

A mini-stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or against the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters. Interior partitions are erected around the stove, which allows you to heat both the kitchen and the adjacent room.

Inside the device are:

combustion chamber;
blew;
smoke channels leading to the chimney.

Furnace door mini ovens ( cast iron or glass) is selected depending on the aesthetic preferences of the owners of the house. The door made of heat-resistant glass, through which you can see how the wood is burning, gives the structure a resemblance to a fireplace. In the middle and top ovens install two smoke dampers. There is one door for cleaning channels. To build this model of the device you will need:

260 pieces brick ceramic;
130 pieces of fireclay bricks;
grate (40x23 cm);
furnace (30x20 cm) and blower (20x14 cm) doors;
2 doors for cleaning holes ( 20x40 cm);
metal pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
two sheets roofing material 60x100 mm in size;
sand and clay(or ready-made clay-sand mixture for masonry), clay-chamotte mixture.

Reference. Masonry mortar increases the volume of the device by the thickness of the joints.

Base and top mini-ovens are laid out with ceramic bricks on a clay-sand mortar. Firebox put from fireclay bricks on a clay-fireclay mixture.

On the long side grounds fit three and a half bricks, on the short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long. In height, the masonry consists of 35 rows.

Small heating and cooking stove

This is a model of a mini-oven for heating and cooking - a convenient and very compact structure. Optimal heated area at sub-zero temperatures 20-25 square meters.

The device has the following dimensions:

length bases (depth) — 64 cm;
width grounds - 51 cm;
height — 215 cm.

The structure is being built in the kitchen. The device includes:

blew;
combustion chamber;
smoke channels leading to the chimney;
cooking floor;
niche for the oven.

Cooking floor made of cast iron has a hole that closes with a disk and a circle. On sale there are also continuous floorings. AT niche for the oven have a metal oven or hot water tank with a tap. If a niche is left free, it serves to dry things. For building a stove need:

222 pieces of ceramic bricks;
grate (40x25 cm);
door for firebox ( 20x20 cm);
door for blower ( 14x14 cm);
cooking flooring (35x38 cm);
metal oven or hot water tank;
iron pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
two doors for cleaning holes ( 20x14 cm);
two valves;
piece of flat slate;
steel corner;
clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture for masonry.

Before starting laying, preparatory work is carried out. They include the following steps:

choice project;
choice and purchase materials;
purchase of metal stove parts;
preparation tool, containers for solution;
preparation places for the construction of the stove;
construction mini ovens.

Project selection

On the Internet and in textbooks on the furnace business, there are ordinal diagrams-drawings of a dozen mini-furnaces.

The choice is great, but if the home master has no experience at all, it is worth consulting with local professionals or with people who have successfully built such stoves. Choosing a device that you plan to build with your own hands, take into account several factors:

square heated room;
amount heated rooms;
temperature air in winter;
frequency of use heating facility;
appointment mini ovens;
experience furnace construction and repair;
material expenses.

Photo 1. Before starting construction, it is very useful to simulate the appearance, dimensions and order of the future stove.

If planned Cook, an option with a hob and oven would be preferable. Need in hot water in winter and in the off-season, it will close the hot water tank in the niche. In it, by removing the removable tank, you can dry shoes and other things. If the house always has electricity or a gas stove, choose the option of a stove without a hob and a niche for the oven.

For regions where winter temperatures drop below 20 degrees and keeps at this level for weeks, suitable large oven with heat shields. mini oven Not recommended heat continuously more than two hours in a row.

For many people it matters design designs. It can be tiled or laid out with bricks with a relief surface.

materials

For the selected mini-oven project, you will need high-quality bricks. Should choose smooth brick 1 grade, uniform color, without chips and cracks.

For laying bricks for a home master without experience, it is better to choose ready mix in a hardware store. It is bred according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If the master creates a solution from individual ingredients, you should purchase sand and clay. The ratio of materials is determined empirically. The solution is scooped up with a spatula and its working surface is tilted at 45-50 degrees. masonry mass normal composition does not fall in lumps from the spatula and does not flow from it.

Instruments

For work, you will need all the tools of the stove-maker and a table on which you can stand when laying the upper rows. To the list tools include:

spatulas: wide and narrow:
Master OK;
stitching to form beautiful seams;
trowel;
a hammer a stove with a flat butt and a pickaxe;
mallet;
level long building;
plumb line building;
wooden beam for the frame;
threads, fishing line, chalk for marking the base;
Bulgarian with a set of discs for cutting and grinding;
rule aluminum.

Important! The temperature in the room when laying the stove and drying it should be positive (from plus 5 degrees).

To prepare the solution, you need big tank. To mix the paste you need wooden stirrer(oar) and construction mixer.

Preparing a place for the oven

Before laying the mini-oven, prepare in advance foundation. This is necessary because even the smallest appliance with a brick pipe weighs from 500 kg and more.

Such pressure on the floor boards will lead to deformation of the floor and stove walls. This can cause a fire on the roof and in the house.

There are several options for building foundations. The construction of a concrete base for a mini-oven includes next steps:

excavation of a foundation pit depth 50-70 cm;
compacting the soil in the pit;
laying a layer of rubble in the pit ( 20-25 cm);
laying in the sand pit ( layer 15-20 cm);
compaction of sand and gravel;
waterproofing the pit with roofing material: the joints are sealed with tar, bituminous mastic;
installation of steel reinforcement with mesh diameter no more than 8-10 cm;
pouring concrete and compacting it with a vibrodrill;
laying two layers of roofing material on dried concrete for additional waterproofing.

Important! The stove is erected on a foundation that protrudes beyond its perimeter. by 10-20 cm. From the furnace side it is recommended leave 50-70 cm foundation in order to mount a pre-furnace platform on it.

Masonry order

Ceramic brick laying is carried out on a clay-sand mortar on a prepared foundation:

1 and 2 rows. Solid laying.

Photo 2. Masonry scheme of the first rows for a small heating and cooking stove. Next comes the flue pipe.

3 row. Lay out the blower chamber. Install (on wire or metal strips) the blower door.
4 row. The laying of the blower and the strengthening of its door continue. A ledge is laid out for the grate.
5 row. A grate is placed on the ledges freely, without mortar. They leave him around gaps of 5-7 mm.
6 row. A furnace door is installed in the furnace portal. It is fastened by laying steel wire in the seams or using steel strips. Planks are also laid in the seams on the mortar.
7-11 rows. Laying the furnace, final fixing the door by laying wire (steel plates) into the seams on the mortar.

Photo 3. Installation and fastening of doors for the firebox and cleaning. With the help of a plumb line, the accuracy of the tub is monitored.

11a. Upon completion 11 rows lay a metal strip (or corner) on which the hob will rest. After that, lay the cooking floor.
12-15 rows. Walls are erected around the cooking floor (cooking chamber), a chimney coming from the firebox is laid out.
15a. In order to have a vault of non-combustible material above the cooking chamber, a sheet of flat slate is placed on it.
16 row. The vault of the cooking chamber is closed with solid masonry, the chimney continues to be laid out.
17 row. Installation of a door for cleaning the chimney (on wire or steel strips).
18 row. Fastening the door.
19-22 rows. Laying according to the chosen scheme.
23 row. Laying out a niche for the oven.
24 row. Laying the walls of the oven, installing the oven. Strips of asbestos cardboard are placed at the bottom of the chamber around the perimeter. The oven is wrapped with asbestos rope (for greater contact with the brickwork and heat accumulation) and finally installed in a niche.
24-27 rows. Brickwork is erected around the oven.
28 row. Installation of a second door for cleaning the smoke channel.
29 row. Installation of a valve above the smoke channel.
30 row. Laying according to the chosen scheme.
31 row. Installation of a second valve above the smoke channel.
32 row. Finishing masonry.

Besides, 32 row is the basis for building chimney. It can be brick or metal.

Photo 4. An example of a finished brick mini-stove with decorative trim. The design is not intended for cooking, but it will heat the house well.

Problems when building a mini-oven with your own hands

Amateur stove-makers, out of inexperience, commit mistakes which then lead to problems. Consider the most common cases:

Furnace masonry with deviation from the project. As a result, there is no normal draft in the smoke channels, and the walls heat up unevenly. The solution to the problem will be disassembly of the furnace and masonry according to proven schemes.
Laying ovens "by eye", without using a level, frame, plumb lines, rules. The device warps, the center of gravity shifts, during operation the device collapses faster.

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, ridding the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of metal "bourgeois" designs. Despite this, many summer residents prefer the classic version - a heating stove made of bricks. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and gives it away for a long time, warming up the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds the resource of a metal one. The minimum cost of materials and ease of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for giving.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove-maker. In it, we will consider several options for simple wood-burning stoves and give practical recommendations for laying them.

You will see that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout schemes, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to fold the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from the future stove. If you only need to heat rooms, and you use bottled gas or electricity for cooking, then choose the option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a couch.

For regular cooking of a large amount of food and pet food, a simple oven with a hob will be just right.

We will look at three examples of stoves with a step-by-step guide to laying them:

Simple straight-through;
With hob;
Heating.

Let's say right away that it is impossible to expect high heat transfer from a simple design, devoid of gas revolutions. For this reason, such stoves are placed in garages and other small rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bno more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get the first simple lesson in practical masonry.

Under such a stove does not need a strong foundation. After pouring large gravel with a layer of 15-20 cm, pouring it with cement mortar and leveling the surface, after a couple of days you can start laying.

The dimensions of the furnace in terms of: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the furnace door.

The orders of such a design are simple. The main condition during work is to observe the dressing of the seams so that the upper brick closes the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” for this - ¾ of the whole brick. The exit from the furnace is thus obtained with a section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After that, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four three-quarters. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on the edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the stove is raised another five rows (one tier on the edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Stove with hob

In the simplest version, this design has small dimensions (width 2, and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even in such a limited area, it is possible to place a single-burner stove.

Work goes smoothly when everything you need is at hand.

Therefore, purchase the following materials and accessories in advance:

Solid red brick - 107 pcs;
Blower door - 1 pc;
Grate - 1 piece;
Single-burner cast-iron stove - 1 pc;
Furnace door - 1 pc;
Pipe valve - 1 pc.

Refractory bricks are not needed for a wood-burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, rejecting cracked and uneven.

Solution preparation

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts of clay with one part of water and adding eight parts of sifted sand to them. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no streaks on it. When laying, it should not flow out of the seams.

The volume of the solution is determined, focusing on the number of bricks. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can start laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm more than the width of the furnace. The height of the foundation is chosen so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then it is not necessary to dig a hole under the foundation. It is enough to make a formwork on the ground with a size in terms of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing material are laid on its bottom to protect it from moisture. After laying the concrete, he is given a week to gain strength and then proceed to masonry.

The dimensions of the stove we are considering with a hob are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Master's advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can start laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving room for the blower door.

Before mounting the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and lay its ends in the seams for better fixation.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with a wet asbestos cord.

The laying of the third row is carried out, overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the dressing of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it there will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the back wall without mortar, periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two supports are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving room for the furnace door. In the back of the furnace, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. Their surface during operation must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth from clay protruding from the seams. This is an important condition for good traction.

Helpful advice! Focusing on the ordering drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out bricks.

Having raised it into the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, laying a wire in the seams that fixes its frame. At the same level, a brick with a beveled end is placed in the back of the fuel chamber - a smoke tooth. It improves heat transfer by preventing the rapid exit of flue gases into the chimney.

Having finished the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid on it in a clay solution. It is necessary for sealing the joints of the cast-iron plate and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

At the eleventh, a smoke damper is installed in the pipe. It is also sealed along the contour with an asbestos cord dipped in clay.

12th and 13th row - the formation of the walls of the pipe. After their completion, a light sheet metal pipe is placed on the furnace, which is brought out to the roof.

heating stove

And now let's see how to fold a brick oven with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Its dimensions:

width - 2 bricks (51 cm);
depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
height - 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction, the following materials and accessories will be required:

Red solid brick - 390 pcs;
Clay - 9 buckets;
Sand - 18 buckets;
Grate (25x40 cm) - 1 pc;
Furnace door (20x30 cm) - 1 pc;
Blower door (14x20 cm) - 1 pc;
Cleaning door (14x20 cm) - 1 pc;
Gate valve -1 pc;
Pre-furnace steel sheet (50x70 cm) - 1 pc;
Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) - 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontal position with a level.

Corners are the hardest part for beginners. In order for them to be even, we recommend immediately installing four template racks at the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at a right angle.

By installing such a “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily derive ideal angles.

On the second row, from the end of the furnace, two bricks are laid with a beveled edge that goes into the ash chamber. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

4 and 5 rows continue the formation of the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and put a grate in it.

At the level of 7 and 8 rows, a furnace door is mounted. Beveled bricks are placed in the back of the chamber, which serve to improve traction. The ninth row closes the firebox door.

From the 10th to the 16th row, the laying of the fuel chamber and the vertical chimney channel is underway. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is placed in the oven.

18-30 rows form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet rag.

31-32 rows form a vault that covers the furnace.

33 and 34 form a chimney.

After finishing the masonry, the oven is left for a week with the doors open and the pipe to dry. After that, they make a trial firebox, burning small portions of chips, branches or straw.

Do-it-yourself brick mini-oven for summer cottage - simple design and efficiency

A dacha or a small country cottage may well be heated with a mini-stove. The designs of mini-furnaces are similar to metal potbelly stoves - in terms of heating speed and compactness, but they have a significantly higher efficiency. A lot of designs and technologies for the construction of brick mini-ovens have been invented. One of the simplest mini-oven schemes will be considered.

The sequence of the device of a small brick oven

For a mini-stove, you can not bring a special foundation. Wooden floors, provided that the board has a thickness of 50 mm or more, may well serve as the basis for the stove.

After choosing a place for a mini-stove, in the corner of the building, in a wall or in a niche, waterproofing is performed under the base of the furnace. For this, any rolled waterproofing materials in two layers and coating insulation - bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics are applicable.
Coarse dry sand 10 mm thick is poured onto the waterproofing layer and leveled under the horizon. In the first row of the base of the stove there will be 12 bricks laid dry, without mortar. Horizontal alignment is performed using the building level
A layer of clay mortar is applied to the starting row of bricks, then a blower door is installed, wrapping it with an asbestos cord. Fasteners in the masonry are made with wire.
The second row and all subsequent ones are laid on clay mortar. Under the grate, a row is laid not with red ceramic bricks, but with fireclay to ensure the lining of the mini-furnace
In the fourth row, the bricks are placed on edge. Starting from the level of the beginning of the chimney channel in the back wall of the furnace, several bricks are made “knock-out” - they are laid without mortar, for subsequent cleaning of the chimney from soot. It is possible to install another door instead of knockout bricks, but the heat loss from a metal door will be greater than from several bricks without mortar. The masonry of the back wall with knockout bricks is done with a slight offset to the outside. Linings of asbestos cardboard or fireclay are laid under the internal partition of the chimney channel
The furnace door is wrapped with an asbestos cord before installation and fasteners are made on the wire. the door opening must point upwards. Fix the door in the brickwork with wire anchors

In the fifth row, the bricks are laid flat, in the sixth - with an edge, in the seventh - flat, the dressing must be performed, and the last brick of the row is always laid out, observing the dressing with the first. But the laying of the back wall of the mini-stove in question is done only with a brick on the edge.
In the eighth row, a brick is laid that closes the firebox door. In this area, above the firebox, a brick with a beveled edge is required, since the flame must be directed towards the stove's cast-iron hob, towards the center of the burner
It is unacceptable to install a cast iron hob on a clay mortar and directly on a brick, due to the significant difference in the linear thermal expansion of cast iron and ceramics. Heating to high temperatures will give deformation in the contact zone, followed by the formation of cracks and destruction. The perimeter of the mini-stove under the stove must have an asbestos cord gasket, and the stove is mounted on a cord
After laying the ninth row, a chimney channel is formed in the tenth. A small-sized stove can have a different chimney design - straight, straight-through or counter-flow, bell-type, horizontal or vertical, as well as combined. When laying the brick of the back wall with an offset to the outside, as in the example under consideration, you will need a chimney pipe that has a rear extension
The eleventh row is the area where the joint is made: the brick and metal sections of the chimney are connected. At the level of the joint, a valve view is mounted with a preliminary winding of an asbestos cord and subsequent clay embedment

The final stage is the first cleaning of the chimney. They take out the knockout bricks and remove construction debris from the chimney, then install the bricks in their original place

To complete the work, finishing is required:

Sand bedding under the starting row of bricks should not spill out; for this, the seam between the floor and the bricks is sealed with clay mortar and covered with a plinth to strengthen the seam and give the building a general aesthetics
Finishing is the simplest and most economical - whitewashing the stove with lime twice. Particularly carefully you need to go through the junction between the hob and the lower brick row. It is very difficult to wash off lime from the metal of furnace fittings and stoves, so it would be reasonable to cover them with polyethylene or other material from splashes and drips of whitewash

There are few technical difficulties in the ordering schemes of small furnaces, and by accurately following the order of the furnace with bricks of the specified format, it is realistic to get a furnace unit that will work correctly, have economical fuel consumption and not smoke into the room. A few more nuances that are common for laying brick ovens of any design:

Drying the stove to the accelerating furnace must be complete - the clay mortar must dry completely. In this case, when fired, it will become "stone". A wet clay mortar, giving off water too quickly when heated, will crack.
The accelerating furnace is produced on fast-burning fuel - wood chips, paper. The furnace section should be heated gradually, with an initial low temperature. Brick and mortar in the joints should warm up slowly, with complete drying, this adapts the materials and the entire structure for subsequent extreme operating conditions - prolonged contact with an open flame and thermal shock. If you immediately heat the built stove with coal or large logs, you can get cracking of the mortar mixture in the seams, which are not necessarily visible visually. But flue gases and inflow air will change the movement in the current and the chimney channel, and this is a direct decrease in efficiency, incorrect operation of the unit and smoke in the room.
The first starting rows of the stove are laid out on cement-sand mortars on Portland cement PC400 or fast-hardening PC500, subject to the skill of fast laying. Classic proportions C:P = 1:4 and 1:5.
Clay solutions for furnaces are prepared empirically, selecting the amount of sand depending on the fat content of the clay used. The usual proportion is ½ - 1/3. A small oven does not require a large amount of clay, so it is easier to buy ready-made dry clay with a fat content indicated on the package. Sometimes chamotte powder and salt are added to the clay solution (to prevent rapid dehydration of the solution in the seams - a glass of table salt in a bucket of water for the solution).

The most difficult in the design of a small stove is the chimney and the transition section to the chimney. Chimneys are laid out with bricks on the edge. Reducing the thickness of the masonry is possible, since the temperatures in the chimney are incomparable with the heating of the combustion chamber. In addition, the overall dimensions of the stove are reduced.

Mini-stoves are used in garages, for heating small outbuildings, as well as country houses. Despite the small size and simplicity, the mini-oven performs all the functions of a heating unit - it heats the room, you can cook food and dry things. To install a two-burner cooktop, a larger width and internal separation over a single firebox for the chimney and cooktop will be required. But changes in the designs are not fundamental, for the installation of a furnace with a different placement of the hob, you should also have a good ordering scheme and perform the masonry steps thoroughly accurately.

We make the simplest stove with our own hands (10 photos)

There are many options for stoves for cottages and houses. Some of them involve financial expenses, others require direct hands. What about those who did not work out either with money or with skill? A simple brick stove will help out, which even a "humanist" can fold.

The article considers two options. The first is suitable for those who want more or less "decent" heating and cooking equipment. The second will be useful to readers who do not pretend at all to a penchant for handicraft, or to any kind of aesthetics of the result.

Figure 1. A simple brick oven

How to make a simple but effective oven?

This option can serve as an alternative to the simplest metal heating appliances - for example, a potbelly stove. With the help of this stove, you can heat the room, cook food, and even admire the flame.

The design occupies a little more than half a square meter. Unlike full-fledged brick ovens, this one does not require a foundation. The weight of the structure is not so great as to make a powerful foundation - it is enough to put a solid board.

The oven can be made in just a day. One of the advantages of the option is that the starting heating is possible in the evening. Certain skills are necessary, but they are not beyond the skills of the average male.

On a note! No qualifications are required for the construction of furnaces. But it is necessary to observe the order - this will make the design as efficient as possible in the context of its potential.

What is required for work?

This is not only simple, but also a budget option. To build a structure you will need:

brick:
* fireclay - 37 pcs.;
* red - 60 pcs.;
the door blew;
firebox door;
lattice;
valve;
cast iron hob.

As a binder - clay solution. In total, about 20-25 liters of the mixture will be needed.

It will also be interesting: barbecue oven - types and characteristics.

Training

The first step is to determine the location of the furnace. Since the mass of the structure is small, there are no restrictions inherent in traditional brick solutions. Having fixed strong boards or a suitable alternative material, the “foundation” is thermally and waterproofed.

The role of an insulator can be played by non-combustible material - for example, basalt wool. Polyethylene or roofing material is placed on top of the base. The size of the latter corresponds to the size of the base plus a small allowance.

A layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured on top. The bedding is leveled. It is important to make the base even - the quality of the structure and the convenience of subsequent work depend on this.

Masonry scheme

The first row is laid on the sand without using a solution. A dozen bricks are leveled strictly according to the level. The bricks are smeared with a thin layer of the mixture, after which the blower door is mounted from the end. The door is pre-wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord that compensates for the thermal expansion of the metal.
After fixing the door with a wire, lay the second row according to the diagram. Form a blower.
Fireclay is used (in the diagram it is distinguished by a yellow tint). After laying, a grate is mounted above the blower.
Prior to this, the brick was laid flat. On this row, it is placed on the edge. A smoke channel is formed, inside which the basis for the partition is made. One of the bricks (it can be seen in the illustration) is laid "dry" - subsequently it will be removed. After that, the firebox door is mounted, which is wrapped several times with strips of asbestos before installation. But you need to do this so that the door opens well up. The element is fixed with wire and a pair of bricks.
The brick is laid flat again, duplicating the previous row.
Again, the “rib” turn is the second and last row in which the brick is laid in this way. The exception is the next row, in which one of the walls is formed by laying on edge. The walls of the chimney channel should be wiped with a damp cloth.
The brick is laid flat according to the scheme. The back wall is made, again using the "on edge" format.
This closes the firebox. A couple of bricks should hang over the firebox so that the flame moves to the middle of the hob - in case the stove is used as a fireplace (without closing the firebox door).
The bricks are slightly shifted to the back wall to support the firebox door. Strips of asbestos soaked in water are laid in front of the brickwork. This ensures the sealing of the gap between ceramics and cast iron. The cast-iron panel cannot be placed directly on the clay mortar, otherwise the difference in the thermal expansion parameters of the materials will lead to cracks.
At this stage, the formation of a chimney pipe starts. The latter, according to the plan, should gradually expand towards the back. But only the chimney base is made of brick. The rest is made of light metal. Otherwise, the excess mass of the element may lead to a shift in the center of gravity of the stove.
Here a valve is mounted, sealed with strips of asbestos. The latter are recommended to be pre-coated with clay mortar. This is the final row, which completes the construction of a brick oven directly with your own hands. The remaining pair of rows is given to the chimney, which will then be joined to a lighter metal channel.

After that, those bricks that were laid “dry” on the 4th row are removed. At the same stage, the smoke channel and the surface of the stove are cleaned of construction debris.

Final works

The simplest stove does not involve serious embellishments. The only decoration is whitewashing. It is recommended to add a little blue and milk to the composition - this will protect the coating from the formation of yellow plaque and whitening.

Important! Before work, brick and metal should be protected. If this is not done (for example, with the help of a film), then the stains will not get rid of.

It is necessary to grease the seams between brick and metal of the chimney very well, as well as the seams between ceramics and cast iron.

Be sure to close the joint between the oven brick and the floor. This will prevent sand from getting into the room. It is desirable to cover the joint with a L-shaped sheet. Then they make a plinth edging, which serves both as a decor and as an additional element that prevents the “foundation” backfill from spilling out.

Figure 3. Functioning furnace

The oven is ready. The entire process took less than one business day. Already now you can try to make a low-power kindling. Logs cannot be used - only wood chips or paper. Wood-fired kindling will create too high a temperature, and the structure will crack. For a full setting of the mixture, you need to give a week or two. After that, you can already drown "in an adult way."

An even simpler version of the stove

If the previous option seemed complicated to someone (although it is not), you can offer an extremely simplified heating design. This oven with your own hands can be laid out in just an hour, even if the hands are generally far from being called golden.

Figure 4. The simplest version of a brick oven

The principle of operation of the structure is simple. Solid fuel burns below, here it settles under the influence of its own mass. Temperature differences create a thrust that carries hot air currents upward. At the same time, firewood burns almost without residue - the smoke is minimal.

For masonry, you only need two dozen whole bricks and two halves. The stove consists of five rows. The design is so simple that it makes no sense to describe the order. The procedure is clearly shown in the illustration.

Figure 5. Ordering the simplest brick structure

Figure 6. Masonry process Figure 7. Finished mobile brick oven

For those who want an intermediate option, we can recommend a slightly more complicated option.

Figure 8. Scheme of a simple stove

Figure 9. L-shaped stove

The creation of this design will also require 20-30 bricks. This option can be mastered by yourself in a couple of hours, if the skills of a bricklayer are completely absent. The construction will obey the specialist in a matter of minutes.

Advantages of the simplest furnace designs

very high installation speed - from a day to several minutes;
does not require a foundation; the stove can be folded anywhere; and if you do not use a binder mixture, the stove comes out collapsible and easily moves;
as fuel - everything that burns: logs, branches, cones, corn stalks, leaves, chipboard, furniture remnants, etc .;
fuel consumption is several times less than, for example, in the case of a potbelly stove;
the simplest option - without the use of clay - allows you to get more heat transfer than from a fire; therefore, such structures are a godsend for those who do not want to constantly maintain a fire on a hike;
almost complete absence of smoke - fuel burns with a minimum of waste;
the temperature of the bricks reaches 1000 degrees - good heating and fast cooking are provided.

Conclusion

Even the most advanced version of this review does not require qualifications and a lot of time. The choice of design depends on the goals of the stove. In a stationary case, the first option is suitable. For mobile situations and completely unskilled users, it is better to use even more simplified schemes.

Easy to make, easy to use! Building the simplest do-it-yourself brick oven

A simple brick oven is required if indoors maintain a constant temperature and humidity.

The stone from which it is composed, when heated, releases water vapor into the air, and when it cools, it takes it away. Thus, the humidity remains approximately at the same level.

In addition, it allows you to maintain the temperature inside the room in 18-20°C, which is medically optimal.

Scheme of the simplest brick oven for summer cottages and houses

Heating stone stove in general it looks like this:

Located below the floor level foundation on which the insulation is applied.
Trenches are installed on the floor - legs, providing heating of the lower part.
Directly above them is blower, as well as a stuffing box. It is needed for uniform heating in height.
Separates it from the main room blower door.
Directly above it is furnace. At its bottom is laid grate, which is also the arch of the blower.
Located directly above the firebox door furnace vault, behind which is high or mouth.
Above begin cleaning, pass and convectors.
Above the cleaning are located two valves.
Almost at the top there are vent outlet into the room smoke channel and ceiling.
The chimney separates from the ceiling internal cutting.
At the very top is mouth of the chimney.

How to fold the simplest brick stove with your own hands, ordering the device

First of all, you need to decide on the shape of the furnace. There are several criteria by which this can be done:

Compliance with the size of the furnace area of \u200b\u200bthe room - the side walls give off more heat near the front wall, this indicator 3-4 times less.
One of the most effective solutions is T-furnace- it can heat up up to four small rooms.

Photo 1. A variant of ordering a simple brick oven for heating houses. Contains 21 rows.

Correct location - this partially follows from the first paragraph. So, if the stove will serve not only for heating, but also for cooking, then it is better to place the mouth of the hob on the side of the kitchen, and direct the side walls to the living rooms.
It is not worth making large stoves for small rooms - the efficiency of the structure does not depend on the size, but from the internal structure. Well suited stoves "cap" type.
In order to avoid unnecessary fuel consumption and maintain the temperature in the room, it is advisable to insulate the walls.

There are several rules kiln masonry:

The seams in the entire structure, with the exception of the firebox, must have a width 3 mm with deviations up to 2 and up to 5 mm down and up, respectively. The width of the seams for the firebox - 13 mm.
The width of the joints between materials having different expansion rates is 5 mm. This is true for ceramic-chamotte or steel-concrete joints.
Each masonry seam is overlapped by an adjacent brick at least a quarter of the length of the latter.
You need to lay bricks starting from the corners. Verticality is checked by a level or a plumb line. To do this (in the first case), a nail is driven into the ceiling and a load is tied on a string. The second end is fixed at the seams. Subsequently, they are guided along the string.
Doors and dampers are fixed with wire, and in highly heated compartments (for example, an oven) - with a steel strip 25x2 mm.

For masonry, the following types of bricks are used:

Red ceramic- for the lower part of the furnace and sections of the chimney with a temperature no more than 80 °C.

Photo 2. Ceramic brick used for laying the outer sides of the heating stove.

Furnace ceramic- for the furnace.
fireclay- they lay out the inner surface of the furnace. Such a brick is able to withstand up to 1600 °C and is also a good conductor and heat accumulator.

Instruments:

Pickaxe - may be required if you have to cut bricks.
Trowels - for fastening bricks.
Rubber mallet - for leveling masonry.
Paint cord - for marking.
Plumb - for vertical alignment.
Laser level is optional.
Building rule - for checking the evenness of the walls.
Level - control when leveling horizontally.

You may also need:

Solution container.
Stitching for seams.
Drill with a mixer (instead of a drill).
Roulette, pencil.
Bulgarian and a metal chisel.
Protective goggles and gloves.

masonry process

Foundation- any brick is used, even crushed stone is suitable. The base layer is poured with cement and leveled.
Furnace body- horizontally, the marking is repelled from the wall of the room. For masonry, a furnace mortar is used. With the help of the level, each row is aligned. A grate is placed in the place where the fireplace is planned to be placed.
For fire safety purposes, the wall adjacent to the wall of the house, reinforced with additional brick. Where the chimney will be, an empty space is left, the rest is completely laid. At the same stage, the ash removal door is installed.
The door is fixed on the mortar and leveled. For additional stability, it is fixed with a wire laid between the bricks.
3 more rows are laid, then an emphasis is placed for the grate - two more rows of a quarter of a brick.
On fireclay brick grate is installed.
Mounted next to the grate big door.
The installation of the door is carried out similarly to the small one.
The first row of the firebox is placed above the fireplace. It is reinforced with metal corners or tin, and cuts of the required sizes are made in bricks.
The next row is laid. On a par with him on the fireclay brick - another grate.
The door is fixed and a brick is fitted exactly under it.
Placed over the firebox another layer of chamotte.
Chimney- the place left under it is divided into wells and reinforced with metal plates.

fit flue ducts.
Above the firebox are placed soot removal doors.
The wells are divided again. It won't hurt to reinforce them with strips of metal.
On the furnace body, except for the chimney space, the ceiling is laid.
being built body eaves and chimneys.
The last division of the wells is covered with a sheet of tin, two more rows of bricks are laid on it to compensate for the internal pressure.
Is put on the valve for each chimney.
Installed waterproofing, and the chimney once again intensifies.
A hole for the chimney is sawn in the roof.
The chimney is reinforced again and the minimum half a meter above the roof, but not below the height of the ridge.

Attention! The zones subjected to the greatest thermal impact are laid out exclusively fireclay bricks(other types may crack from heat).

Possible difficulties

Door fixing- one of the options is to hook the wire to the masonry seam.
Roof pipe laying- a well-chosen brick is used, fastened with a cement-lime or cement-clay mortar.

Useful video

Watch a video that demonstrates the process of laying a brick heating stove.

Brick or metal?

If the room is planned to be heated only by a stove, then brick is better- it gives off heat to the room longer and cools down more slowly. It needs to install a strong foundation that holds the structure.

Photo 3. Ready-made simple stove for heating the cottage. Additionally equipped with a cooking surface.

A metal stove is suitable when the house already has heating or the room is used only from time to time and it needs to be quickly warmed up. metal oven lightweight and does not require the installation of a foundation.

The choice of one or another type of furnace depends on the conditions where it is planned to use it.

Do-it-yourself country brick oven

In the cold season in the country or in the village you can not do without a stove. After all, with the help of it it is convenient to cook food and warm up the room using a publicly available type of fuel - firewood. To build a simple stove, you don’t need to be a professional, it’s enough to know the basics of physics, have straight hands and at least a little understanding of the types of stoves and their device. In this article we will look at how you can build a small stove for a summer residence yourself. Such an oven will have a stove and a cooking chamber for cooking, and will also be able to heat the room in which it is installed.

Materials and tools for building a furnace:

Materials:
- red brick 500 pieces and plus another 600 pieces for the pipe;
- red clay (you will need 6-8 buckets);
- 0.5 cubic meters of sand;
- 3-4 bags of cement;
- water.

Metal elements:
- furnace and blower doors;
- three doors for cleaning the chimney;
- grate;
– 4 cast iron gate valves;
- cast iron plate (dimensions 710 × 410 mm);
- two steel corners measuring 55 × 55 × 3300 mm;
- four steel corners 45 × 45 × 850 mm in size;
- four aluminum corners measuring 45 × 45 × 1550 mm;
- two aluminum corners measuring 25 × 25 × 1200 mm;
– eight steel strips 370×60×2 mm.

Required tools:
- rectangular sledgehammer;
- acute-angled sledgehammer;
- combined trowel;
- wooden and metal tamper;
- a template for marking openings and masonry channels;
- pickaxe hammer;
- spatula for solution;
– jointing for concave and convex seams;
– mooring shackles (made of a metal rod with a latch and a galvanized sheet with a cord);
- level;
- roulette;
- plumb;
- folding rule;
- a square.

The reliability of the furnace directly depends on the selected brick. First of all, it must be durable, otherwise the oven will not last long. The strength of a brick can be determined by its color, if it has a purple hue, it means that the brick has been burned. If the brick is orange, then it is likely that it was burned too lightly. If you hit a high-quality brick with a hammer, you should hear a clear sound, and the color of such a brick is pink.
The author recommends using Vitebsk brick for such works. The bricks should not have chips and cracks, at least they are not desirable. It is also good that all the bricks are the same size. If it so happened that defective bricks came across during the purchase, they should not be used in the construction of the chimney and firebox.

The device of the Russian stove is such that it has a foundation. The author uses a foundation pit with a depth of 1 meter using a sand cushion 11 cm thick. The upper part of the pit was filled with concrete. According to fire safety techniques, the foundation must be at least 250 mm from the wall of the house.

Furnace assembly process:

Step one. Laying out the first row
First you need to lay out the first row of bricks on the prepared foundation. The result should be a regular quadrilateral. Accuracy is extremely important here, as this will determine how evenly the entire furnace will be built. The first layer is first laid without mortar, the horizontalness of the row can be checked with a level. It is important to note that each row is assembled strictly according to the drawings created earlier. The author got only 20 rows.

Step two. Waterproofing
At the next stage, the author makes waterproofing, roofing material is suitable for such purposes. You will need three layers in total. The material is placed on top of the laid out row of bricks. Well, after that, you can start laying out the second row of bricks, which, according to the rules of masonry, is usually called the first. When laying out each row, it is important to check its horizontalness.

Step five. Further assembly process
Now you can install the firebox door, you will need wire or special brackets. In order for the door to open freely, it must be wrapped with an asbestos cord. Next, the fifth row is laid out, the bricks are set flat.

To make it possible to install baking sheets in the oven, special steel strips are installed in the cooking chamber. They need to be mounted after the 14th row every two. The seams can protrude up to 20 mm.

After the twentieth row is laid out, a 55 × 55 mm corner is installed above the cooking oven door. Further, from the same corner, a frame is installed with the edge up, as well as a sheet of the exhaust channel 2 mm thick (hole 120X120 mm)

After the furnace is built, you can remove construction debris and remove knockout bricks. Then the painting work begins. The stove needs to be plastered and whitewashed. To create a plaster mixture, you can take clay and sand in a ratio of 1 to 2, add 0.1 part of asbestos and one part of cement. Before applying the solution, you need to wait until its surface is dry. The first layer will be liquid and not thick, and the second, when the first one sets, you can apply a thicker one.

To hide the gap between the floor and the first row of bricks, a subfloor metal sheet is installed. A plinth can be installed around the perimeter of the oven.

It is not recommended to heat the stove right away, it should be allowed to stand for about a week. After all, the slower the solution dries, the stronger it becomes. Then you need to slowly warm the oven with wood chips until it is completely dry. If you immediately heat the oven strongly, it may crack.
If there is a desire to protect the corners of the oven masonry, then they can be trimmed with a corner. In the same way, you can equip the cooking chamber from the inside.

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The sequence of the device of a small brick oven

For a mini-stove, you can not bring a special foundation. Wooden floors, provided that the board has a thickness of 50 mm or more, may well serve as the basis for the stove.

After choosing a place for a mini-stove, in the corner of the building, in a wall or in a niche, waterproofing is performed under the base of the furnace. For this, any rolled waterproofing materials in two layers and coating insulation - bitumen and bitumen-polymer mastics are applicable.
Coarse dry sand 10 mm thick is poured onto the waterproofing layer and leveled under the horizon. In the first row of the base of the stove there will be 12 bricks laid dry, without mortar. Horizontal alignment is performed using the building level
A layer of clay mortar is applied to the starting row of bricks, then a blower door is installed, wrapping it with an asbestos cord. Fasteners in the masonry are made with wire.
The second row and all subsequent ones are laid on clay mortar. Under the grate, a row is laid not with red ceramic bricks, but with fireclay to ensure the lining of the mini-furnace
In the fourth row, the bricks are placed on edge. Starting from the level of the beginning of the chimney channel in the back wall of the furnace, several bricks are made “knock-out” - they are laid without mortar, for subsequent cleaning of the chimney from soot. It is possible to install another door instead of knockout bricks, but the heat loss from a metal door will be greater than from several bricks without mortar. The masonry of the back wall with knockout bricks is done with a slight offset to the outside. Linings of asbestos cardboard or fireclay are laid under the internal partition of the chimney channel
The furnace door is wrapped with an asbestos cord before installation and fasteners are made on the wire. the door opening must point upwards. Fix the door in the brickwork with wire anchors

In the fifth row, the bricks are laid flat, in the sixth - edgewise, in the seventh - flat, the dressing must be performed, and the last brick of the row is always laid out, observing the dressing with the first. But the laying of the back wall of the mini-stove in question is done only with a brick on the edge.
In the eighth row, a brick is laid that closes the firebox door. In this area, above the firebox, a brick with a beveled edge is required, since the flame must be directed towards the stove's cast-iron hob, towards the center of the burner
It is unacceptable to install a cast iron hob on a clay mortar and directly on a brick, due to the significant difference in the linear thermal expansion of cast iron and ceramics. Heating to high temperatures will give deformation in the contact zone, followed by the formation of cracks and destruction. The perimeter of the mini-stove under the stove must have an asbestos cord gasket, and the stove is mounted on a cord
After laying the ninth row, a chimney channel is formed in the tenth. A small-sized stove can have a different chimney design - straight, straight-through or counter-flow, bell-type, horizontal or vertical, as well as combined. When laying the brick of the back wall with an offset to the outside, as in the example under consideration, you will need a chimney pipe that has a rear extension
The eleventh row is the area where the joint is made: the brick and metal sections of the chimney are connected. At the level of the joint, a valve view is mounted with a preliminary winding of an asbestos cord and subsequent clay embedment

The final stage is the first cleaning of the chimney. They take out the knockout bricks and remove construction debris from the chimney, then install the bricks in their original place

To complete the work, finishing is required:

Sand bedding under the starting row of bricks should not spill out; for this, the seam between the floor and the bricks is sealed with clay mortar and covered with a plinth to strengthen the seam and give the building a general aesthetics
Finishing is the simplest and most economical - whitewashing the stove with lime for two times. Particularly carefully you need to go through the junction between the hob and the lower brick row. It is very difficult to wash off lime from the metal of furnace fittings and stoves, so it would be reasonable to cover them with polyethylene or other material from splashes and drips of whitewash

The drying of the stove before the accelerating furnace must be complete - the clay mortar must dry completely. In this case, when fired, it will become "stone". A wet clay mortar, giving off water too quickly when heated, will crack.
The accelerating firebox is produced on fast-burning fuel - wood chips, paper. The furnace section should be heated gradually, with an initial low temperature. Brick and mortar in the joints should warm up slowly, with complete drying, this adapts the materials and the entire structure for subsequent extreme operating conditions - prolonged contact with an open flame and thermal shock. If you immediately heat the built stove with coal or large logs, you can get cracking of the mortar mixture in the seams, which are not necessarily visible visually. But flue gases and inflow air will change the movement in the current and the chimney channel, and this is a direct decrease in efficiency, incorrect operation of the unit and smoke in the room.
The first starting rows of the stove are laid out on cement-sand mortars on Portland cement PC400 or fast-hardening PC500, subject to the skill of fast laying. Classic proportions C:P = 1:4 and 1:5.
Clay solutions for furnaces are prepared empirically, selecting the amount of sand depending on the fat content of the clay used. The usual proportion is ½ - 1/3. A small oven does not require a large amount of clay, so it is easier to buy ready-made dry clay with a fat content indicated on the package. Sometimes chamotte powder and salt are added to the clay solution (to prevent rapid dehydration of the solution in the seams - a glass of table salt in a bucket of water for the solution).

What is home comfort? This is when it is warm in winter and cool in summer, walking on a pleasant to the touch, non-icing floor covering, comfortable furniture and a cozy bed for you and your children. Children fall asleep faster and sleep better when it is warm and comfortable to sleep on soft, children's mattresses. https://mebelsait.dp.ua/detskie-matrasy.

When you think about building your own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc. cope with heating the house, but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is being actively used again.

The stove is a highlight of design, and an economical heating device. For laying the stove, it is much easier to find an experienced stove-maker. But this long-forgotten craft has just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove-makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?”.

Properly laying out an oven requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study many instructions for laying brick ovens.

Types of furnaces

The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:

Dutch;
Russian;
Swede.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent her from giving off the accumulated heat well.

Russian oven

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence - free space where you can relax. Under the bed there is a firebox, you can cook food in it. There is a stove next to the firebox, and a blower a little lower, which supports the fire. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily warm up a room whose size exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will be required.

Swede

Relate to compact options. In length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusualness of such a stove is that a stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is flammable. But the risk of fire is reduced by dampers.

Construction rules

A homemade stove must meet fire safety requirements. Therefore, it is necessary to pay special attention to the preparation for construction.

Decide on the location of the furnace.
Prepare the correct drawing.
Buy quality materials for construction.
Purchase of tools.
Draw up a cost estimate.

Properly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help to avoid many mistakes. Ready-made plans can be found on the Internet.

When choosing an installation site, you need to take into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room and the type of furnace. It’s difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it’s easier to use a reduced brick oven model, a photo of which is on the Internet.

Choice of working tools

When laying the stove, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:

Jointing - floods the solution into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the oven is left without cladding or plaster.
Trowel.
Pickaxe.
Solution shovel.
Plumb.
Furnace line.

materials

The heat transfer and durability of the furnace will depend on the material that was used in the construction. Therefore, this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - grade M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber must be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to brick, it is used:

Screened sand.
Clay - normal fat content.

Foundation for the furnace

The basis for a homemade oven is made at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a strong foundation

First, they dig a hole. It should be noted that the width and length of the pit should exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

After the pit is leveled, and half covered with sifted sand, well compacted and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is placed. Further, all free space is poured with a solution of concrete, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontality with the help of a building level.

After 5-6 days, the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is disassembled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

lay out of brick;
re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, ramming it.

The recipe for concrete mortar - one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. Clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built with solid bricks. The sutures of the first row require dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used in the construction of smoke paths. The chimney is built of red burnt bricks. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “castle” layout.

Photo of brick ovens

Despite the development of modern heating technologies, brick ovens quite often used for home heating, and this is understandable - they are not only effectively heat your home, but and give a feeling of comfort and home.

Stove heating has a number of advantages, thanks to which wood-fired brick ovens have not lost their popularity for several centuries. The most important merit- the ability of ceramic bricks, from which stoves are laid, store and release heat for a long time.

At the same time, radiant energy useful for the human body is released into the space, giving a feeling of warmth and comfort. With regular heating in the cold season, the house is always warm and dry, and due to stove draft, natural ventilation is formed. In the heat, the stove, on the contrary, cools the rooms by removing excess heat into the ground and air through the foundation and chimney.

In addition to creating a comfortable microclimate, a brick oven can carry additional functions, the presence of which depends on the design:

cooking - boiling, frying, stewing and baking;
drying clothes, shoes, food;
heating beds for sleeping;
the opportunity to admire the open flame.

Furnaces that provide several functions are called combined. These types of stoves include fireplace stoves, as well as several popular basic models, including a Russian stove.

At furnace heating have and limitations, they include inability to efficiently heat remote rooms. Therefore, in large-area houses, several stoves with separate or combined chimneys are usually installed, or stove heating is combined with other types of heating.

In compact houses, consisting of one or more rooms, the stove is usually located in the center, so that its walls are located in all rooms. The hob and oven are placed on the side of the kitchen, the stove bench is in the bedroom or nursery, and the open fireplace insert is in the living room or dining room.

Overview of brick ovens

The most popular and time-tested basic designs are widely used by stove-makers: they make small adjustments to them, adjusting the size and functionality to the customer's desire. However, the principle of their work is preserved, so all brick stoves can be divided into several groups.

Video: do-it-yourself masonry master class

Differs in massiveness, large dimensions and wide functionality. It consists of an open firebox, which in some cases is closed with a damper, as well as extended smoke channels that run along all the walls of the stove and heat them well. Sometimes a Russian stove is equipped with another firebox with a hob.

, in addition to heating, allows:

cook a variety of food - boil, fry, stew, bake;
dry things and shoes;
heat a couch or beds used for sleeping and relaxing.

The efficiency of the Russian stove is not too high - up to 60%, in addition, its firebox requires certain skills. Moreover, it is necessary to heat the Russian stove in winter regularly, avoiding interruptions and cooling the body of the stove. With periodic heating in a cooled stove, condensate forms, the brick absorbs it and cracks during the next cooling and freezing.

In summer, the Russian stove is heated regularly or periodically, for cooking, while using the "summer" mode, directing smoke with a damper straight into the chimney. The body of the stove does not heat up.

Advantages of the Russian stove:

multifunctional, solves a whole range of tasks;
with regular heating during the cold season, it creates an even microclimate in the house without temperature fluctuations;
decorates the house and gives it a peculiar national flavor.

Disadvantages:

large weight and dimensions - the construction of a massive foundation is required;
a large amount of masonry materials, high construction costs;
complex maintenance, the need for regular cleaning of the channels and the chimney with your own hands;
not too high efficiency.

It is advisable to build a Russian stove in a house for permanent residence, if there is free space and financial capabilities.

Dutch

The Dutch stove is a fairly popular design of heating stoves, sometimes they are equipped with a hob. This is a channel-type stove - for efficient heating of the walls, it is equipped with smoke channels with a vertical arrangement. Passing through them, the smoke completely burns out and gives off heat to the brick.

The design feature of the Dutch oven is a small footprint, which makes it popular with summer residents and owners of small houses. At the same time, the stove can be made of any height, so it can successfully heat two floors. The shape of the stove also varies from square and rectangular to round, but in any case, its height is much greater than its width, so the Dutch stove is often compared to a column.

Advantages of the "Dutch":

saving on space and materials - it needs two to three times less bricks than a Russian stove, and the price of its construction is significantly lower, it can be easily folded with your own hands;
the Dutch woman has rather thin walls and warms up quickly;
it can be heated after long breaks, immediately bringing it to full power;
with modest dimensions, the "Dutch" can heat a house up to 70 square meters.

However, it also has disadvantages:

Its efficiency is low - about 40%;
the optimal mode of operation is smoldering, which is why the "Dutch" is sometimes called a long-burning brick oven;
to ensure good traction, cleaning the furnace from ash and soot should be regular;
if the view is not closed after the firebox, the stove cools down instantly, so it requires close attention and firebox skill.

The Dutch stove is great for heating a summer house or a small house, including those with a second or attic floor, while it can be equipped with a stove, oven or water tank.

Swedish

The Swedish stove has a more versatile design compared to the Dutch one, while its efficiency is much higher with compact dimensions. The standard Swede is multifunctional, it has a hob, an oven, and two niches for drying shoes and clothes, and some masters complement the Swede with a fireplace or a stove bench.

This is a channel-type stove, in which the principle of a bell-type stove is also implemented - the afterburning of flue gases under the roof of the furnace. The stove effectively heats two adjacent rooms, usually a kitchen and a room, the "Swede" will not cope with heating a large house.

Advantages of "Swede":

fast warming up;
efficient fuel combustion;
the special design of the channels allows you to warm up the lower part of the oven, so that the floors become warm;
the ability to cook various dishes;
in the niches located on top it is convenient to dry vegetables, fruits and berries, as well as heat up food;
they can also dry clothes, shoes;
if desired, you can build a heat exchanger into the oven and heat water for household needs.

Disadvantages of "Swedes":

for laying highly heated elements, it is imperative to use fireclay bricks, which increases the price of its construction;
to avoid heat loss through the bottom of the stove, you need to make good thermal insulation;
it is not recommended to completely cool the stove in the cold season, since the ignition of a cold, damp stove leads to the gradual destruction of the masonry.

Swedish is suitable for small houses with permanent residence or as an additional source of heat in houses with water heating.

Bell-type

Photo: bell-type furnace
One of the most modern developments -. Their difference is the ability to warm up evenly from all sides and retain heat for a long time. Unlike duct stoves, bell or dome stoves do not have winding narrow channels, so they are no less susceptible to solid particles settling and narrowing of the chimney.

The principle of their action is as follows: the smoke from the furnace rises up, under the hood, where it lingers until it cools, after which it descends along the walls, heating them. The stove can have a whole cascade of hoods in which the smoke gradually cools, so the efficiency of such stoves is very high.

Advantages of bell-type furnaces:

simple design and a small amount of material required for masonry, low price;
the stove can be heated from a cold state, while it quickly heats all adjacent rooms;
if you forget to close the damper, the stove will not cool down like a “Dutch”, thanks to the so-called gas view, which prevents back draft;
if desired, it can be equipped with a hob and a heat exchanger;
even a novice stove-maker can fold such an oven with his own hands.

This stove is practically devoid of shortcomings, therefore it is very popular with summer residents and owners of country houses.

Bell-type stoves are an excellent choice for giving, a country house, a cottage. Thanks to any possible number of cascades, it can heat several rooms at once, including those on two floors.

Brick long-burning stoves - is it possible?

Any homeowner, faced with stove heating, tries to reduce labor costs, including the time spent on heating the stove. Therefore, many are interested in the possibility build a brick oven with a long-burning mode.

However, this impossible for several reasons. The long burning mode, implemented in industrial metal stoves, implies a slow smoldering of firewood, during which a large amount of smoke containing carbon monoxide is released. Industrial stoves equipped with a long-burning mode have a sealed firebox, so that waste cannot enter the room.

In addition, to ensure slow smoldering of firewood, it is necessary to limit the flow of air into the furnace. In brick stoves, this can be done by covering the blower, but it is inconvenient to regulate the air supply in this way.

Partially, the long-burning mode can be implemented in the "Dutch" and the Russian stove. But you should not rely on the effectiveness of this method, it is better to choose the design of a brick stove that allows you to keep warm for a long time, or purchase it - their price is lower than that of brick models, and the efficiency is almost as good as them.

Basic masonry techniques

Having made a decision, the first thing you need to do is choose a design that meets your needs, find an ordering scheme and a description of the masonry, after which you can start buying material and purchased items. Laying a brick oven requires knowledge of basic working methods.

Under a brick oven, a foundation is required, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the hearth of the oven by 100-150 mm on each side. It can be made of reinforced concrete, as well as made of concrete blocks or rubble. The main requirement that must be observed is that the foundation for the furnace should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the house, otherwise, seasonal ground shifts may damage the furnace or pipe.
For laying the furnace with their own hands, two types of bricks are used: red full-bodied ceramics and refractory fireclay, yellow in color. The most heated surfaces are laid from fireclay bricks - a firebox, smoke channels, while using a refractory masonry mortar based on fireclay clay. The price of these materials is higher than that of ordinary bricks, so fireclay is used only where necessary. All other elements of the furnace and the chimney are laid out of ceramic bricks, and a mortar based on furnace red clay or a purchased composition, including heat-resistant cement, is required.

Between the fireclay and ceramic masonry, it is imperative to maintain a gap of about 5 mm in order to compensate for the different temperature deformation of these materials.

Purchased elements - grates, doors, views and hobs - are placed in accordance with the scheme. The doors are fixed with the help of annealed steel wire with a length of at least 30-40 cm. It is inserted at one end into the holes intended for this in the door frame, and the other end is fixed between the bricks on the masonry mortar. The slab and grate are placed on the previous row of masonry in the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for the different thermal expansion of brick and cast iron, asbestos cloth or cord is used.
The chimney of a brick oven is usually also made of brick, but an industrial-made ceramic block chimney can also be used. It is characterized by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing carbonic acid, creates stable traction, and does not clog.
To give the stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be lined with finishing stone, clinker, tiles. Finishing gives the stove not only a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from the harmful effects of water and dust, and although the price of such a stove is somewhat higher, its service life is significantly increased.

Video: do-it-yourself oven masonry

The choice of the correct design of the furnace and high-quality masonry is the key to its long and safe operation.. A do-it-yourself brick wood-burning stove will decorate any home, moreover, this heating method is reliable and allows you to create comfort and a favorable temperature regime.

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Heating stoves for home drawings. Laying brick ovens: the pros and cons of the material, the choice of bricks, the location of the stove, the stages of work and the rules for further operation

Schemes of brick mini-ovens

small heating structure

Small heating and cooking stove

Project selection

materials

Instruments

Preparing a place for the oven

Masonry order

Problems when building a mini-oven with your own hands

How to fold the simplest brick oven?

Stove with hob

heating stove

Do-it-yourself brick mini-oven for summer cottage - simple design and efficiency

The sequence of the device of a small brick oven

To complete the work, finishing is required:

We make the simplest stove with our own hands (10 photos)

How to make a simple but effective oven?

What is required for work?

Training

Masonry scheme

Final works

An even simpler version of the stove

Advantages of the simplest furnace designs

Conclusion

Easy to make, easy to use! Building the simplest do-it-yourself brick oven

Scheme of the simplest brick oven for summer cottages and houses

How to fold the simplest brick stove with your own hands, ordering the device

masonry process

Possible difficulties

Useful video

Brick or metal?

Do-it-yourself country brick oven

The sequence of the device of a small brick oven

To complete the work, finishing is required:

Types of furnaces

Dutch

Russian oven

Swede

Construction rules

Choice of working tools

materials

Foundation for the furnace

masonry process

Photo of brick ovens

Overview of brick ovens

Dutch

Swedish

Bell-type

Brick long-burning stoves - is it possible?

Basic masonry techniques

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