Devices for sharpening knives, device and manufacture. Homemade and manual machines and devices for sharpening knives

Every housewife sooner or later begins to dull the knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or butchers meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. At any time, it can break off the cut product and cause injury. Therefore, periodically the tool should be sharpened, using a special device for sharpening knives.

Such sharpeners in a wide range are available in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of stones for sharpening, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - prerequisites

For effective and long-term operation of the knife, the most important factor in sharpening it is the angle between the edges of the blade. In the process of sharpening, it is necessary to restore the previously set angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

Each blade has its own optimal angle:

• for a razor and a scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10-15 degrees;
• knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15–20 degrees;
• multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
• hunting and hiking knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees;
• knives for cutting hard materials - at 30-40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the right angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to provide the required angle of inclination cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the production itself will take not so much time.

DIY knife sharpeners

There are many types of sharpeners for knives, among which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

• a bar of abrasive material;
• stop for attaching a knife.

As a bar, you can use ready-made special stones or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

On sale you can find several types of stones:

Water tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

An oil stone resembles a water stone in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural tools are made from natural stones that undergo industrial processing.

Artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working on them is not very convenient.

For self-manufacturing abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates and a thickness of 4-5 millimeters. On the surface of the plates with the help of double-sided tape, you need to stick sandpaper of different grain sizes. The cost of such bars will turn out to be quite small, and sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, the nuts must be tightened very carefully, otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used in its application, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, fast movements should be avoided, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to loss of blade properties.

Tool for sharpening wood blocks

It is enough just to make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the grinder, it is recommended to attach a piece of rubber to its lower surface.

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting brackets

The Lansky sharpener is taken as the basis for such a device, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

• metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
• standard aluminum corners;
• metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
• a set of nuts and bolts;
• grinder with a vise or file;
• file.

Instead of a grinder, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding sharp corners from the corners and cleaning the places where the metal is cut.

Steps for making a sharpener:

1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
2. Holes are drilled and threaded into them.
3. With the help of a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded with a needle file.
6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
7. The rods are inserted into the extreme holes and fixed with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
8. An M8 bolt is screwed into a wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is strung, which is fixed with nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, it will be possible to adjust the sharpening angle.
11. From a thin metal rod in the shape of the letter G, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut, a device is assembled that will hold the stone for sharpening. The end holder should be with a through hole for the knitting needle.

Such a device for sharpening knives has a fairly wide range of degrees of pressure angle and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can simulate a knife sharpener from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife sharpener is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod is placed on the side. This is a very convenient device with which you can sharpen any cutting tools with high quality.

Necessary materials and tools:

Stages of work:

1. Three blanks are cut from a chipboard sheet. Their dimensions should be: 30x8 cm; 7x8 cm; 37x12 cm.
2. On a workpiece measuring 30x8 cm on the long side, 6 centimeters are measured from the edge and a hole is drilled.
3. From a bar with a cross section of 2x4 centimeters, a segment 8 centimeters long is sawn off, in which two through holes perpendicular to each other are drilled. The first should be three centimeters from the edge, and the second three centimeters from the first.
4. From the edge of the bar to the hole, a recess one centimeter thick is cut.
5. A slot is drilled along the middle of the plexiglass.
6. Holes for legs are drilled in the corners of a workpiece made of chipboard of large sizes.
7. Four centimeters from the edge of the workpiece, a small piece of chipboard is placed perpendicularly and fastened with two self-tapping screws.
8. A medium-sized workpiece is placed on top and is also fastened with two self-tapping screws.
9. For a magnet on the very edge highest point medium-sized parts, a shallow depression is drilled.
10. The magnet is inserted inside and fixed with self-tapping screws.
11. A piece of Plexiglas is placed on the same board. A bolt is inserted through the slot and hole, which is screwed at the bottom with a nut.
12. A hole is drilled on the free edge of a large blank for an iron rod.
13. The rod is fixed with two nuts: a lamb nut and a regular one.
14. A bar is screwed onto the rod, into the hole of which a bolt screwed from the outside with a nut is inserted.
15. A knife clamping device is assembled from a cut of a metal rod, two clamps and four nuts with washers.
16. Legs are screwed to the finished product.

The sharpening angle on such a device is adjusted using a bar and a lamb, which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing a suitable option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

• print

stanok.guru

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener

Every man, and sometimes a woman, regularly faces the need to sharpen a knife. Every knife, regardless of quality, can dull over time, so it needs careful maintenance. On the shelves of stores there is a large selection of sharpeners and stones for sharpening, so making a choice is not difficult.

Types of stones for sharpening

There are several types of stones that are used to sharpen knives:

1. Oil - such stones imply the use of oil on the surface, which saves material consumption.
2. Water stones - have the same principle of operation, but water is used in working with them.
3. natural stones is a natural material that has undergone industrial processing.
4. Artificial stones, respectively, are made from an unnatural component.
5. Rubber stones, such material is rare, as it is not convenient to work with them.

Some features of knife sharpening

Each knife has its own sharpening feature.

For example, a Japanese knife, for self-sharpening, requires the attention of an experienced craftsman, since Japanese steel is very fragile. Manufacturers recommend using several types of Japanese water stones for sharpening, with different grain sizes.

For housewives, for sharpening a kitchen knife, it is easier and more convenient to use a special sharpener. However, the use of several stones will allow you to keep the sharpness of the knife for more long time which is especially appreciated. Although this will take more time and effort, it will prolong the life of the tool.

Conditions for the correct sharpening of knives

For correct sharpening knife, it is necessary to create conditions under which the knife will be sharp for several months. For such sharpening, choosing the right angle will help. There is a rule that defines the correct principle of work - a smaller angle for sharpening a knife will create a lower cutting edge strength. That is, it should be remembered that the sharper the knife is immediately sharpened, the faster the time will come for re-sharpening, and the more difficult it will be to bring the knife to its original working condition.

What is sharpening for?

The main point of sharpening knives is to restore the sharpness of the blade itself. Why is it necessary to observe the correct angle when sharpening. Or rather, the restoration of the previously set angle, which must comply with technological standards. To check the sharpness of the knife, it is necessary to cut the material for which it is intended, if the knife cuts it without problems, then the technique is followed correctly.

Problems that may arise when sharpening

Without a doubt, in order to choose the appropriate angle, experience is needed, without which it is quite difficult to cope with this task. Especially without necessary fixture, since holding the knife with your hands, it is difficult to sharpen it evenly on both sides. To fix the problem, it is recommended to build a homemade knife sharpening machine, which is easy to do at home. After all, already existing devices, in their design, are quite simple and do not differ in their complexity.

How can you sharpen a knife at home?

There are situations when you need to sharpen a knife very quickly at home, for such purposes you can use the following available materials:

• wooden block;
• hacksaw;
• sandpaper;
• file;
• ceramic plate;
• chisel and some others.

Particularly sophisticated village men can generally sharpen a knife on a foundation made from a solution of cement and sand. However, it is not recommended to follow this example, and use in practice the most proven methods that are suitable for quick sharpening.

by the most the best way there will be a home-made device, as it is effective and very convenient, and besides, it will not differ much from the factory one.

What are drawings for?

Of course, it is much easier to buy a ready-made knife sharpener, and they are not so expensive. Nevertheless, most homely owners prefer to do everything with their own hands, this is both pleasant and you can be sure of the quality of workmanship. After all, they are used only natural materials. To make the manufacturing process pleasant and easy, you need to prepare a plan and follow it.

1. To get started, manufactured or purchased finished drawing for clamping jaws. When making a drawing, it is necessary to pay special attention to the smallest details and to think over and draw the entire structure.
2. The next step will be drawing a drawing of the right and left stops, for the strength of the assembled structure.
3. Make a drawing for the guide, which has its own subtleties.

Guide drawing

All you need for a guide that fits perfectly is the following:

1. A bobbin with an M6 thread, which must be sawn off using a hacksaw, so that it turns out to be 16 cm long. The main thing is to make sure that there are no burrs so that they do not slow down the sharpening process itself.
2. Also, electrodes with a soft and elastic cylinder can be useful in work, they must be bent with the letter “g” using pliers. The main thing during the period of work is not to forget to periodically look at the drawing of the product.
3. Metal scraps are useful in using clamps, they need to be sawn and holes installed, using drilling machine. A hand tap will help in basting the thread. And in order to reduce friction, use a drop of oil, which is then easily removed with soapy water.
4. Finishing work with the guide, according to the drawing, twist all the details and for fixing, drip ordinary nail polish onto the junction of the clip and the stud.

There are two types of knife sharpening - it is bilateral and one-sided. The way the two work is, of course, different. All you need to consider when working with knives are criteria such as:

1. The abrasive stone used when working with knives should not be very fine or, conversely, with very large grains, choose something in between these two criteria.
2. In the case when there is no necessary device for sharpening the knife, and the tool needs to be sharpened, you can use this handy tool, like a ceramic mug. All you need to do is turn the spontaneous sharpening over and draw along its bottom with movements towards you. But it should be borne in mind that its bottom should have a rough surface.
3. Do not forget that ceramic knives do not need to be sharpened. On their surface is applied special coating, made of special alloys, which protects it from damage and wear.
4. A serrated knife should not be sharpened without special equipment, there is a high probability that you will not sharpen it, but spoil it. For this kind of knives, a special laser is used.
5. In order for the knives to stay sharp longer, they should be washed in cold water.

Knife sharpening errors

Features of sharpening planer knives

With this kind of knives can only handle experienced master with certain skills and knowledge. Since this is a very complex process, sharpening equipment is difficult to find in regular store. However, many people use conventional equipment to sharpen planer knives. But you need to remember that this requires a modern low-speed tool that has water cooling. And you should also use a new stone, with a flat surface, better fit a stone that has water principle work. If you are not an expert and you do not have necessary equipment, you can sharpen a planer knife for a fee at car workshops, where there is such a sharpener.

Video

positroika-doma.ru

Self-made machine for sharpening knives

Blunt knives on the farm can not only cause a bad mood for the hostess, but also cause accidents. Hardware stores have a range of tools designed for sharpening knives, but not all of them suit customers. Alternatively, you can make a knife sharpening machine yourself; the drawings for its manufacture are not difficult for a person who knows how to craft.

Types of stones for processing blades

Before you start making a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the information about its components. Grinding stones, or they can also be called - abrasive stones are one of the decisive factors in achieving an excellent result, but the skill of the master plays an equally important role.

Types of grindstones

So to get perfect sharpening you have to practice a lot.

There are the following types of stones suitable for sharpening cutting surfaces:

• Tools that require water to work. The advantage of this type of whetstone is material savings - the surface of the tool is less subject to wear.
• Oil stones - similar in structure to water stones but have an oily surface.
• natural stones- Made from natural materials. Before making a tool, such a stone undergoes industrial processing.
• Artificial stones - artificial materials are used in their manufacture. It is believed that a tool made from non-natural components is inferior in quality to natural materials, but at the same time they are quite cheap.

If desired, you can make a homemade abrasive bar. To do this, you need to take a flat rectangular Plexiglas 5 mm thick and stick sandpaper on it using double-sided tape. This is the easiest way to make a knife sharpener, it is convenient because when worn sandpaper it is easy to replace.

Why is the sharpening angle so important?

The angle between the edges of the blade is called the sharpening angle. Precise observance of the given angle is the main requirement when processing the cutting surface with an abrasive tool, and it is its value that affects the sharpness of the blade.

With a simple marker, you can control the turning angle, just paint over the area to be sharpened with it. Uniform erasing of paint indicates good quality blade processing.

Prerequisites for a grinder

To do grinding machine for do-it-yourself knives, you need to carefully plan the stages of work and draw up drawings. If the master has experience, then he can develop them on his own or use ready-made drawings that are offered in special literature.

For a perfect cutting surface, the machine must meet the following requirements:

• reliable and at the same time not too rigid fixation of the knife in a vice;
• observance of the angle value, during the sharpening process, the angle must be constant;
• the design of the machine should provide for the possibility of changing the angle of sharpening.

You can read below how to make your own devices for straightening blades, which are in no way inferior to purchased mechanisms.

DIY knife sharpener

The most affordable sharpener option

We do the most fast option devices. To do this, you need to prepare 2 pairs of wooden corners, an abrasive block and a protractor to correctly determine the sharpening angle. The dimensions of the bars should be the same. Wooden corners are fastened together with adjustable screws, and a sharpening bar is securely fixed between them at the required angle.

Despite the ease of manufacture, such machines have a number of disadvantages, these include:

• the processing angle has to be maintained manually - which is not very convenient during a long processing process;
• the need for rigid fixation of the device on the working surface for its stability;
• when sharpening, you need to constantly control the tension of the screeds so that the bar does not change its position.

But it should be noted that such simple homemade quite suitable for home processing kitchen knives and do not require large financial investments in the manufacture.

Manual grinder with adjustable bar

This machine is a more complex design, but it is much more convenient to use. The basis for its creation was a model of a machine called the Lansky sharpener.

Sharpener Lansky

The advantage of such models is the reliable fixation of the knife blade.

The device is a support table on which the knife is fixed. At the opposite end of the table, a screw post with a bar is vertically fixed. A guide rod is inserted into this bar, on which an abrasive bar is mounted. By moving the bar along the screw rod, you can change the value of the angle of metal processing.

The advantages of machines with a similar design include:

• high processing accuracy;
• the possibility of replacing the bar with sandpaper glued to plexiglass;
• wide support base allows you to fix the machine with clamps on any table.

When operating the machine, the difficulty lies only in the long adjustment of the position of the whetstone. If you plan to process different types of blades, you will have to reconfigure the device each time.

Possibility to adjust the position of the knife

An alternative to a machine with a movable grindstone is a device where it is possible to adjust the position of the knife relative to the bar. Basically, its design is similar to the adjustable bar machine, a little easier to manufacture.

On the plane of the base, a movable block is mounted for fastening the rod with a bar. Clamps are also installed on it, one adjustable, the second persistent. With the help of an adjustable clamp, the angle of sharpening can be adjusted.

The only drawback of this model is the appearance of bar wear in one specific place. This disadvantage can be eliminated by installing a long pin for adjusting the edge relative to the surface to be treated.

Each of the above options has its own advantages and disadvantages. When making your choice in favor of a particular model, it is necessary to focus on the level of skills and the magnitude of the needs for operating the machine.

Video: Making a knife sharpening machine

promzn.ru

Do-it-yourself knife sharpener - step by step instructions with photo examples

The use of sharp knives in the kitchen greatly facilitates cooking, speeds up the process itself, freeing up time for leisure activities or just relaxing. After all, you need to make a lot of effort to cut meat, cut bread or vegetables with a blunt knife.

Modern industry, responding to consumer demand and answering the question: how to sharpen a knife, has developed and introduced into production all kinds of tools for sharpening knives that can satisfy the most demanding customer.

Every housewife in the kitchen has several knives designed for cutting meat, crushing bones or other hard foods. Each knife requires a specific sharpening angle. You can sharpen knives using various devices, which greatly speeds up the sharpening process, but worsens the quality and can be done manually.

It will take special skills and dexterity to sharpen a knife by hand to a high-quality sharpness. First you need to choose the right grindstone: you will need several whetstones with different grits, fine-grained is used to complete the grinding. The surface of the stone must be absolutely flat, without chips, the length is not less than the length of the knife blade.

In everyday life, the most commonly used classic device is a donkey. Holding the knife at a slight angle and making circular motions achieve good quality sharpening. There is an important condition - before doing the work, it is necessary to wet the donkey.

Several ways to sharpen knives

• Wedge-shaped - used for knives used as a lever, rather high-strength and sharp sharpening;
• a blade with a convex or straight descent is considered more durable and is intended for cutting;
• wedge-shaped sharpening of one side in the form of a chisel - a rather rare form, is performed by specialized firms producing knives. This form of sharpening is popular in Japan, the peculiarity is that this form for left-handed and right-handed requires different angle sharpening;
• blade with a curved descent is ideal for cutting.

Hallway design - 110 photos of the hallway interior

It will not be difficult to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands.

There are many homemade devices, among which you need to give preference to what will most satisfy the requirements of a particular consumer. Almost every owner can make tools for sharpening knives a high-quality and indispensable assistant in the kitchen.

This will require a reliable and stable stop for fastening and a movable bar. The simplest device has the shape of a house, even a child can use it in everyday life. Homemade devices are designed to accurately maintain the angle of inclination to the blade, thus achieving high quality work.

The simplest device for sharpening knives, in fact, is a device consisting of two perpendicularly connected bars, fastened together with studs, between which a whetstone is stably attached at the right angle.

A variation of a home-made device is a design with a movable, adjustable platform and a knife stably attached to it. This design for mounting requires a perfectly flat surface.

For such a device, a marble countertop is suitable; you can also put glass on a regular table. It is easy to prepare a drawing of a device for sharpening knives even for a person without experience, school knowledge is enough for this and, based on the drawing, proceed to create the required design.

In order for the knives to remain sharp as long as possible, you should adhere to certain rules use and care:

• In no case should the knife be overheated during sharpening; water can be used to cool the knife during operation;
• in order not to expose the knife to corrosion after sharpening, it must be dry; knives cannot be stored together with other cutlery; it is best to use a separate box or special holders;
• monitor the condition of the knife handle, it must securely hold the blade so as not to contribute to injury;
• in work, use wooden and plastic cutting boards, avoiding stone and glass.

If you follow these simple rules, the knives will last a long time and will bring real pleasure when working with them.

Photo of the best knife sharpeners

The service life of any knife directly depends on the methods of its operation and the procedure for sharpening the blade. Tools for sharpening knives are so diverse that they allow modern man do not resort to the work of specialists, but do all the work yourself at home. To sharpen knives, you can use both a special industrial-made device, and any device made by yourself. It is important to know that simple elements for sharpening knives (for example, a whetstone) that are at hand can do a bad job and the sharpness of the product will not only not return, but gradually the product will completely become unusable. At the same time, any makeshift fixture for sharpening knives can be based on the use of these very simple sharpening devices. Detailed information How to make a sharpener with your own hands can be found below.

A home-made manual knife sharpening machine, provided that all the requirements for its creation are met, will simplify the sharpening of knives and its performance will be no worse than a professional one. Proper sharpening includes next rule: each type of cutting product has a certain edge sharpening angle, which must be constant along the entire length of the blade (see table No. 1). The sharpener, which will be initially based on this principle, will give the master a sharp knife edge for a long time.

Table No. 1. Sharpening angle in parallel with the type of cutting device

Edge processing during sharpening should be even. To fulfill this condition, the following rules must be observed:

• the blade must be fixed in the vise of the fixture reliably and efficiently, without exposing the metal of the blade to damage;
• the movement of the touchstone along the axis of the knife edge must be uniform and strictly at a certain angle;
• the point of contact of the blade must be strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the sharpener;
• the pressure on the knife blade should change smoothly depending on the change in the contact area between the blade and sharpener.

Simple knife sharpener

The simplest device for sharpening knives is based on the use of an angle frame and a whetstone. The price of such a primitive factory-made device is quite high, as is the price of interchangeable whetstones, while making such a device for sharpening knives at home will not be the slightest difficulty for the master. You will need the following inventory:

1. Wooden blocks of the same size - 4 pcs.
2. Drill (or any other drilling tool).
3. Bolts and nuts (about 4 pcs.).
4. Touchstone.
5. Protractor.

First you need to make a pair of wooden corners, placing the bars to each other strictly at an angle of 90º (Fig. 1). Close the resulting wooden corners with each other in parallel as a whole and drill holes through the diameter of the bolts. Insert bolts into the holes, and tighten the corners a little to each other with nuts.

The point of this invention is to be able to sharpen simply by holding the knife vertically in relation to the sharpening surface located at a given angle.

The most important thing is to correctly fix the donkey between wooden corners fixtures. To do this, using a protractor, you need to set the desired angle of inclination of the touchstone and tighten the bolts tightly to clearly fix the position of the touchstone.

With some refinement of the fixture, it is possible to fix the position of the knife relative to the grinding stone. A significant disadvantage of such a machine for manual sharpening the impossibility of smoothly adjusting the angle of inclination of the grindstone appears.

Sharpening device from mounting brackets

The diagram and drawings of a homemade knife sharpener from mounting brackets, based on the Lansky fixture, are clearly shown below.

To assemble this device you will need:

1. Metal corners 90*90 mm with a wall thickness of 6 mm.
2. Stud with thread M6 and length 160 mm.
3. Thin rod (electrode, needle, etc.).
4. Touchstone.
5. 2 rectangular pieces of metal (sponges for clamping the donkey).
6. Pliers.
7. Hacksaw for metal.
8. File (or any other tool for processing sharp corners).
9. A set of hardware (nuts and bolts).

Holes should be made in metal corners and threaded in them according to the drawings. Then grind off the bevels on the jaws that determine the fixation of the knife blade to prevent interference with the movement of the grindstone. All sharp corners and edges of the future sharpening device must be processed with a file.

In both metal sponges intended for fixing the donkey, you need to drill under the connecting bolt. Fix the donkey. A thin smooth needle, previously bent at an angle of 90 º, must be inserted and fixed in the hole in one of the jaws. In the future, with the help of this lock in the form of a knitting needle, a certain angle of inclination of the touchstone will be set. Such a device for sharpening knives is characterized by an extensive coverage of the sharpening angle, which, no doubt, will be of interest to most craftsmen.

Machines with fixed blades

Machines for sharpening knives with fixed blades will attract the attention of those people who want to sharpen a knife not only qualitatively, but also quickly. The design, which rigidly fixes the knife blade relative to the grinding stone moving at a set angle, allows you to accurately set the angle of inclination.

To create such a homemade machine with your own hands, you will need:

1. The base is a rectangular wooden plate with dimensions of 440 * 92 mm and a thickness of 18 mm.
2. Wooden plate 92 * 45 * 45 mm (for fixing a vertical threaded stud).
3. Wooden block 245 * 92 mm and 18 mm thick (plate to which the knife will be attached).
4. Iron plate 200*65mm and metal thickness 4mm.
5. Piano loop, 92 mm long.
6. Hairpin M8 325 mm long.
7. Nuts and bolts with M8 thread.
8. Drill 6.5 mm.
9. Tap M8.
10. Self-tapping screws 50 mm, 4 pcs.

A die designed to fix a vertical threaded stud must be drilled through with a 6.5 mm drill. The hole should be located at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the plate, approximately in the center.

Further, in the resulting hole, it is required to cut the thread for the M8 stud. A wooden plate prepared in this way must be screwed to the base at a distance of 265 mm from the edge using ordinary self-tapping screws 50 mm long, screwed into the back of the base.

Determination of the place of attachment of the bar

After the bar and the base are securely fastened, it is necessary to insert the M8 pin into the hole in the bar. The hairpin must pass through the entire section of the bar and the base; thus the risk of changing its position is minimized. The stud at the base of the bar must be firmly fixed with an M8 nut, slightly drowning it when twisting in the wood of the bar.

The second part of the work lies in the assembly of the clamping device for fixing the position of the knife. To do this, a piano loop from the end is attached to a bar of wood 245 * 92 mm with three self-tapping screws wooden plate, with which it will be attached to the base of the device.

After securing the wooden part of the restraint, you can proceed to attach the iron plate. In the center of the plate 200 * 65 mm, you need to drill an oblong groove, 90 mm long and about 1 cm wide. The groove should be located at a distance of 60 mm from the edge of the clamping plate. Additionally, it is required to drill a hole at a distance of 20 mm from the opposite edge and cut a thread in it for an M8 bolt. Then you need to attach the clamping plate to the previously prepared wooden base using this bolt. Using another bolt and a suitable washer, it is necessary to fix the clamping plate in the center of the cut groove. The fixation should be clear, but at the same time neat, so as not to damage the surface of the blade.

The most difficult part of assembling this fixture is preparing the adjusting device that will set the angle of sharpening the knife. For this you will need:

• metal square profile 40×40 mm;
• furniture bracket, 40 mm wide;
• a pair of rivets;
• plywood block 42 × 25 and 18 mm thick;
• bolt and nut M5;
• a pair of wing nuts M8;
• touchstone;
• steel bar with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 40 cm.

A pair of holes must be drilled on a plywood bar: a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm along a section of 42 × 18 mm (the distance from the edge along the side of 42 mm is set at 15 mm) and a through hole with a diameter of 5 mm along a side with a section of 42 × 25 mm (distance from edges 10 mm). The square pipe should be cut in half so that a “U”-shaped bracket with a width of 40 * 15 mm and lugs of 20 mm is obtained. In the ears, you need to drill 8 mm holes, into which the M8 pin will be inserted later. Connect the resulting bracket to the furniture hinge using rivets. To the resulting structure, using the second part of the furniture bracket, tighten the plywood bar with an M5 bolt.

Connect the touchstone to the guide rod, which is a steel rod with a cross section of 8 mm. When connecting the touchstone and the guide rod, you should strictly ensure that their center lines coincide. If desired, for the convenience of using a sharpener, a handle-holder can be adapted to the touchstone on the reverse side. It remains to fix the donkey in the guide mechanism, fix it with a lamb and a home-made device for sharpening knives is ready.

Machine tools with fixed sharpening surfaces

Machines with fixed sharpened surfaces are a simple modification of a device for processing household knives. In such a device, there is no possibility of adjusting the sharpening angle, while several different angles can be set in advance for sharpening different types of knives. The work of sharpening blades with the help of such machines is not difficult, it is enough just to drive the blade along the abrasive surfaces in the recess.

The device consists of a pair of planes inclined to each other at a certain angle, one of which is a grindstone.

Electric knife sharpeners

The procedure for creating an electric sharpening machine is simple: it is enough to supply almost any device for sharpening knives and scissors with an electric drive. Such a sharpening machine allows you to quickly and accurately sharpen the product and at the same time provides a better concave shelf at the edge of the blade.

The mechanism of the electric sharpener for sharpening knives contains a guide, which is placed along the axis of rotation of the whetstone, and with the help of which the blade is adjusted at a given angle. The sharpening angle is set and set by the guide, and the clamping force is determined by the master.

Particular attention must be paid to the speed of sharpening, because. the electric drive allows you to sharpen the product at high speed, as a result of which the surface of the knife heats up. Such surface heating leads to the tempering of hardened steel, as a result of which the knife can quickly lose its hardness and its service life will be noticeably reduced. To prevent steel tempering, sharpening on a high-speed electric sharpener should be performed at short intervals and with sufficient breaks to allow the knife to cool.

Making stones for sharpening

It will not be difficult for a modern master to make stones for sharpening with his own hands. For this you will need:

• a wooden plate according to the size of the future grindstone;
• epoxy resin;
• cardboard box according to the size of the bar;
• abrasive;
• protective rubber gloves.

As an abrasive, you can use ready-made powder, or you can prepare an abrasive own production, for example, from an old bar Green colour also Soviet-made. Such a bar can be powdered and used later as an abrasive.

A wooden plate needs to be processed on one side with sandpaper and a saw to make frequent notches. Epoxy resin mixed with abrasive crumb. Having previously placed the bar in a cardboard box glued to the size of the bar, cover the prepared surface wooden block mixture epoxy resin and abrasive. After complete curing of the resin, the bar is ready for use.

Another option for making sharpening stones with your own hands is to create a whetstone from small rectangular glass plates about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided adhesive tape, sandpaper is glued to the surface of the glass plate. The whetstone is ready to go.

Tool for sharpening wood blocks

A simple tool for sharpening knives is a tool consisting of a pair of wooden slats and a pair of bars with an abrasive, with the same geometric dimensions.

Wooden slats should be carefully sanded with abrasive skins. Then, after applying auxiliary markings, depending on the angle of sharpening the knife, make cuts to a depth of 15 mm. Insert emery bars into the resulting holes so that each groove matches, and then fasten them with bolts. To give the grinding device greater stability, the lower part of the surface can be laid with a piece of rubber.

The types of devices for sharpening cutting tools are different and each master will be able to choose the manual machine that will fully satisfy his needs.

There are many ways to sharpen knives. Modern industry, promptly responding to the needs of professionals and just private craftsmen who want to use high-quality tools, has developed and is introducing special grinding devices into production.

With the help of a homemade knife sharpener, you can sharpen a knife at any angle, since the sharpening angle is adjustable independently.

But it happens that the factory device, for one reason or another, does not suit the customer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands. It will most likely be much cheaper and, it is possible, much more convenient for its creator.

Necessary condition for the correct sharpening of knives

The purpose of any sharpening of a dull tool is simple and clear at first glance. But making the knife sharp is only part of the solution. The most important factor for long and efficient operation of the product is the angle of sharpening.

Figure 1. Cross section of the blade: 1 - cutting edge (RK), 2 - supply, 3 - sharpening angle, 4 - descent, 5 - butt.

The significance of this factor can be assessed in practice. It would seem that the smaller we make the angle between the edges of the blade, the sharper the knife becomes. But such an action leads to the fact that our object will not be able to demonstrate its improved cutting qualities for a very short time. Moreover, the sharper the knife is, the faster it becomes dull, since a direct pattern appears here - the smaller the sharpening angle, the less strength the cutting edge of the blade has.

Thus, the task of high-quality sharpening of knives is reduced to restoring the sharpness of the blade while maintaining the correct sharpening angle. In a sense, sharpening is the process of restoring a previously set angle. And it can be considered correct in the case when it fully complies with certain technological standards and most effectively, freely and quickly cuts the material for which the knife is intended.

Therefore, each blade is sharpened at its own optimal angle for it.

However, it is generally difficult to do this without having a special device. The fact is that, holding the knife with your hands, it is difficult to ensure uniform sharpening with the given angles of inclination of the cutting edges.

To eliminate this problem, there are special tools for sharpening knives that you can make yourself. It should be noted that usually their designs, despite big variety, do not differ in any increased complexity, and for manufacturing similar devices takes relatively little time.

Back to index

Materials and tools needed for sharpening knives

The following blanks and tools will help to make simple and quite solid adaptations:

• wooden bars;
• a set of abrasive bars (musats);
• hacksaws (for metal and wood);
• electric drill;
• chisel;
• files;
• plane;
• clamp;
• a set of various sandpaper;
• marking devices;
• screws, nuts.

Back to index

What are sharpening devices: a few examples

It is quite difficult to describe in detail all the grinding devices that exist today. Let's dwell on some of the most characteristic and common.

The first fixture is made from two wooden and two abrasive bars of the same size. All burrs should be carefully removed from wooden blanks with sandpaper. Then, depending on the required angle of sharpening knives, a preliminary marking of wooden bars is made. To do this, a corresponding line is drawn on the bar.

Methods for sharpening knife saws: a - jointing of the saw teeth (1 - file, 2 - block, 3 - saw blade), b - soldered the sinuses with a hacksaw to a shallow depth, c - setting the saw teeth, d - sharpening the saw teeth (1 - rubber pipe , 2 - rubber safety cover, 3 - wooden clamp, 4 - vise).

Further, a whetstone is applied to the intended line in order to fix its width on the wood. On the opposite side of the wooden block, the corresponding lines are applied according to the principle of mirror reflection.

On the marked lines on both wooden bars cuts are made with a depth of 1 cm to 1.5 cm. Bars of abrasive material are inserted into the recesses thus obtained. When performing these operations, you need to make sure that all the grooves coincide with the grindstones. After that, the abrasive elements are fixed with bolts. In order for the resulting sharpening device to be stable and not slip on the desktop, a piece of rubber can be attached to its lower surface.

The second device is based on the principle of a vertical arrangement of the knife blade. In this case, the blade being sharpened will move along the abrasive bar, which is fixed at a certain angle to the horizontal and vertical surfaces. As practical experience shows, keeping the blade in a vertical position is much easier and more functional than driving the blade along the horizontal plane of the abrasive bar, while trying to maintain a given sharpening angle.

This device is very easy to make. To do this, you need to take a pair of ready-made, identical in size wooden squares. You can also make such square blanks yourself, providing strictly right angles in them. In several places of both squares, holes are drilled symmetrically, into which clamp screws are inserted.

Then it is necessary to mark the horizontal and vertical bars with a centimeter scale. According to it, the angle of inclination of the abrasive bar will subsequently be set. After setting the desired angle, the sharpener is rigidly fixed in the device by means of clamping screws.

Using this type of device in his practice, the grinder will have to make friends with trigonometry. Using its formulas, it will be possible to accurately determine at which points of the horizontal and vertical bases of the square the edges of the abrasive bar should be fixed. So, for example, with a sharpening angle x = 30 °, the horizontal extension of the bar should be 4 cm, and vertically - 15 cm.

The third version of the device for sharpening knives considered here is somewhat similar to the previous one. In this case, a wooden base is made, on which two side and one central lining are then placed. They are also made of wood to make it easier to cut their side edges at the angle that will be needed for high-quality sharpening.

This option involves the rigid fastening of two side plates on the base and a removable (with a screw) central plate. This pad will act as a clamp for the bars. The mating inclined faces of the side and central elements must have the same cut angles.

Thanks to this, it will be possible to clamp the bars at the required angle for sharpening. But, unlike the previous version with square clamps, this way does not involve smooth adjustment of the angle of inclination of the grindstone. Therefore, it is possible to sharpen the knife blade here only in two rigidly fixed positions.

The following device is based on a principle that is directly opposite to the two previous options. In this case, it is not the abrasive bar that is rigidly fixed, but the workpiece to be sharpened. The sharpening element is mounted on a sufficiently long rod.

With its supporting side, the bar is attached to the vertical rack. In this case, the connection of the rod with the rack should provide free horizontal movement of the bar together with the rod in different directions. Defined is set by the height at which the movable bar is fixed on the vertical stand.

Most parts for a sharpening machine can be made from literally anything, following general principle devices. As an example, let's take laminated or polished box plywood 8-12 mm thick, which was widely used in the manufacture of Soviet radio engineering cases.

The base must be heavy - about 3.5-5 kg ​​- otherwise the machine will be unstable and unsuitable for sharpening heavy cutting tools. Therefore, the inclusion of steel elements in the design is welcome, for example, the base of the case can be “forged” with a corner of 20x20 mm.

From plywood, you need to cut out two parts with a jigsaw in the form of a rectangular trapezoid with bases of 170 and 60 mm and a height of 230 mm. When cutting, leave an allowance of 0.5-0.7 mm for the processing of the ends: they must be straight and exactly match the markup.

The third part is an inclined plane made of plywood planks measuring 230x150 mm. It is installed between the inclined sides of the side walls, while the trapezoids of the side walls rest on the rectangular side.

In other words, the base of the machine is a kind of wedge, but the inclined plane must protrude 40 mm in front. On the ends of the side walls, set aside two lines with a thickness gauge, indented by half the thickness of the plywood. Drill three holes in each plank for fastening the parts with screws. Transfer the drilling to the ends of the inclined part, temporarily connect the base parts.

In the rear part, the side walls are connected with a bar 60x60 mm, which is attached to the end with two screws on each side. In the bar, you need to make a 10 mm vertical hole indented 50 mm from the center, that is, 25 mm from the edge. To be sure of verticality, it is better to first drill with a thin drill on both sides, and then expand. From above and below, screw two fittings into the hole with internal thread M10, and in them - a 10 mm hairpin 250 mm long. Here it may be necessary to readjust the lower bushing slightly if its threads do not match the stud.

Assistant device.

Remove the flat inclined part from the base - it needs to be finalized by providing a device for fixing and pressing the tool being processed.

First set aside 40 mm from the front edge and along this line with a hacksaw cut a groove about 2 mm deep. With a sectional or shoe knife, chip off the top two layers of veneer from the end of the plank to form a sample into which you can put a 2 mm steel plate flush with the common plane.

The arm rest consists of two steel strips 170x60 mm and 150x40 mm. They need to be folded together along the long end with uniform indents along the edges and three through holes of 6 mm should be made. The strips along these holes must be bolted together, placing the caps on the side of the upper, larger plate. Arc-weld each hat, welding it to the plate, then remove the metal deposits and grind the plate until a perfectly flat plane is obtained.

Attach the narrower striker to the notch at the edge and transfer the holes with a drill, then secure the tool rest with bolts. Before installation, it can also be magnetized with direct current, this will help in sharpening small blades.

Locking mechanism.

The second part of the handbrake is the clamping bar. It is also made of two parts:

• Upper L-shaped bar 150x180 mm with a shelf width of about 45-50 mm.
• The lower strike plate is rectangular in shape 50x100 mm.

The parts need to be folded in the same way as the parts of the armrest were folded, placing the reciprocal bar at the far edge of the upper clamp. In the center we make two holes with an indent of 25 mm from the edges of a small part, through them we tighten the parts with two 8 mm bolts. You need to start them in opposite directions, while the head of the upper (near) bolt is located on the side of the clamping bar. The bolt heads are also welded to the plates and pre-sanded to obtain neat fillets.

On an inclined board with an indent of 40 mm from the edge, draw a line with a thicknesser, and make one 8 mm hole 25 mm from the top and bottom edges. Connect the edges of the holes with a marking and make a cut with an allowance with a jigsaw. Bring the resulting groove with a file to a width of 8.2-8.5 mm.

Fasten the clamping and reciprocal bar through the groove in the plank. Tighten the bolt protruding from above with a nut so that the bar retains minimal mobility, then lock the connection with the second nut. To press or release the bar from below (in the niche of the base), screw the wing nut onto the second bolt.

Sharpening angle adjustment.

On the stud screwed into the base bar, throw a wide washer and tighten the nut so that the rod does not turn in the futors.
The adjusting block must be made from a small bar of hard material with dimensions of approximately 20x40x80 mm. Take carbolite, textolite or hardwood.

At 15 mm from the edge, the block is drilled into a 20 mm end on both sides, the hole expands to 9 mm, then we cut the thread inside. With an indent of 50 mm from the axis of the hole made, the second one is drilled, but in the flat part of the part, that is, perpendicular to the previous one. This hole should have a diameter of about 14 mm, and it should also be heavily flared with a round rasp.

The block is screwed onto the stud, so it is possible to relatively accurately adjust the height of the lug without a complex system of screw clamps, as in the original machine, which is a little more difficult to implement in practice. In order for the block to be motionless during operation, it must be locked on both sides with M10 wing nuts.

Carriage and interchangeable bars.

For a grinding carriage, you will need to coaxially weld 30 cm pieces of an M10 stud and a smooth, even bar 10 mm thick. You also need two solid blocks with dimensions of approximately 50x80 mm and a thickness of up to 20 mm. A 10 mm hole should be made in each bar in the center and with an indent of 20 mm from the top edge.

First, a wing nut is screwed onto the bar, then a wide washer and two bars, again a washer and a nut. Rectangular whetstones can be clamped between the whetstones, but it is better to make several replaceable whetstones.
Take a light one as a basis for them. aluminum profile with a flat part 40-50 mm wide. It can be a profile rectangular pipe or pieces of an old cornice profile.

We skin and degrease the flat part, “Moment” glue on it strips of sandpaper of different grain sizes from 400 to 1200 grit. Choose a cloth-based sandpaper, and glue a strip of suede leather on one of the bars to dress the blades with abrasive paste.

How to sharpen.

For proper sharpening, make several templates from plywood with angles of 14-20? for cutting and 30-37? for cutting edges, the exact angle depends on the steel grade. Fix the blade parallel to the edge of the handle and press it with a bar. According to the template, adjust the angle between the planes of the grinding block and the inclined board of the table.

Start sharpening with a large (P400) stone if the edge does not have the correct angle. Achieve the downhill strip to take the form of a straight strip without meanders and waves. Reduce the grit and pass on both sides of the blade first with a P800 block, and then with a P1000 or P1200 block. When sharpening the blade, pass the stone with a little effort in both directions.

After sharpening, the blade must be corrected with a “leather” bar, on which a small amount of GOI paste is applied. When straightening the blades, the working movement is directed only towards the edge (toward itself), but not against it. And, finally, a little advice: if you sharpen knives with polished blades and engraving, paste them with masking tape so that the crumbling abrasive does not leave scratches. It also does not hurt to paste over the surface of the handpiece with self-adhesive vinyl.

Each owner will be happy to have such a homemade product that is useful for the home, because sometimes, by the sharpness of knives, they judge the owner .. There are quite a lot of methods and devices for blades. For example, it is enough to have either whetstones or carbide-tipped angular clearance devices advertised on TV. To trim expensive knives, Western manufacturers produce hard alloy bars (about 10 x 1 x 1 cm in size and in and at a price of 1500-2000 rubles). It is clear that it is difficult to call this sharpening, it is rather the removal of burrs on the blade. Of course, there are individual specialists who can, without any adaptations, make an ideal cutting edge watch the video on youtube. There are a lot of videos on this topic on the net and, the main task solved by these devices is to maintain the required angle and edge width when sharpening, but I propose to make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands.

Correct smooth sharpening is achieved by moving the grinding element at the right angle and along the desired path on the curved part of the blade. For work, in most cases, they use bars with different grain sizes or sanding skins glued onto perfectly even and durable strips. The disadvantage of the bars is the development in the middle, which is regularly removed by editing and the high cost of the bars themselves.

For work, the device is attached with a clamp to the table. The desired angle is set by moving the slotted bar along the screw post. The blade being processed is fixed with two strips (in the second version, one five-millimeter plate was made with fastening with nuts and screws). To place the sanding paper, glass strips of ten-millimeter glass are used, glued in pairs with epoxy and a guide rod located between the strips. Photo of glass bars with glued skin and skin with GOI paste below without a rod.

The skin of a different number in the next photo.

The skin is cut into strips and glued with a weak PVA solution or rubber glue. Processing proceeds sequentially - from coarse grain to fine grain with water or oil. The movement comes only from itself. When sharpening a very curved part, the location of the knife on the fixture must be changed to ensure the same width of the shiny edge. Before sharpening and further, for ease of control, you can paint over the edge to be sharpened with a permanent wide marker. With careful work, you should get such an edge.

The device is made of what it was-Glass cost 100 rubles. last year, a set of skins in 600 r. Since last year it has been used about 7 times for sharpening expensive knives. Photo of a modified clamp for massive knives.