What is a do-it-yourself knife sharpener. Do-it-yourself knife sharpener - instructions! Homemade manual knife sharpening machine

A weapon, a tool, a means of survival, a gift, a souvenir - in what roles do not play knives in our lives. The knowledge of how to choose and sharpen a knife, will allow you to easily navigate in all varieties and even make a knife yourself!

How to choose a knife - a blade for all occasions

By and large, any knife can perform, if not the entire list, then most of their inherent functions, however, for the sake of convenience and productivity, products are made in different shapes and sizes, distributing them for a narrower purpose. That is why there are kitchen knives, folding, cutting, hunting, for cleaning fish, for outdoor activities, for self-defense. The best knife is the tool that is used in accordance with its purpose and functional features.

Before you buy yourself a tool, you need to clearly describe to yourself the entire list of actions that you will perform with it. The second thing to consider is the material of the blade and handle, and the third is the sheath. It would seem that a knife is a completely simple product, in which there are only two components - a blade and a handle, but a specialist's eye will highlight at least a dozen details in it.

The blade is the general name of the working part of the product, but, dividing into parts, one can distinguish the point, the cutting edge (blade), slopes (grinded sidewalls leading to the blade), butt of the blade (blunt back), valleys (grooves on the blade that facilitate him and are the bloodstreams in hunting and combat knives), the heel of the blade (the blunt part of the blade near the handle). In some products there is also a cross, which prevents the hand from slipping from the handle to the blade, as well as a lanyard - a leather cord that covers the hand and prevents the knife from falling out of the hand.

How to sharpen a knife - take a closer look at the blade

The sharpening of the blade and its general condition depend on the materials that are usually used in the manufacture. When choosing, you should pay attention to the resistance of the material to corrosion, the ability to hold sharpening, strength and flexibility. An important role is played by the shape of the side profile of the blade. Most often, you can find such forms as a finca with a straight butt or a “drop-point” with a lowered line. Particular attention should be paid to the shape of the section:

Triangular blade - often this type of sharpening is also called Scandinavian. Strong and sharp sharpening is perfectly suited for cutting, however, it is not recommended to do chopping actions with such a knife, since the section has a low strength.
Straight slopes - sharpening is similar to a triangular, but the cutting edge has a more obtuse angle. With a worse cut quality, a knife with such sharpening has greater strength and a longer service life without re-sharpening.
Concave slopes - they are also called razor slopes. For cutting, such sharpening is best suited, even with a thick and durable butt, a special fineness of the cut is achieved. However, sharpening is quite gentle, it is highly undesirable to cut with such a knife.
Convex descents are just right for chopping blows, since sharpening has a special strength.
Triangular blade with leads to the edge - almost identical to the first type, with the exception of the lead (curves) from the butt to the edge, due to which the edge has a more obtuse angle and greater strength.

How to properly sharpen a knife with a particular section shape, you may be told when buying, in addition, quite often products are produced with special devices for a characteristic type of sharpening section. Complex section shapes are best bought with self-sharpening steel. Most often, manufacturers produce knives made of carbon or alloy steel, which are subjected to special processing.

Handle and scabbard - what material is better?

The strength and reliability of the handle is a factor without which even the best professionally sharpened steel will be useless. The best option at all times was a one-piece handle with a blade shank passing through it through and through. Pay attention to the ergonomics of the product - how the handle lies in the palm of your hand, is held in a wet and damp hand. Handles with long deep grooves are attractive, but they are not recommended for permanent use, since any operation of the knife actually requires a special position of the fingers on the handle.

The choice of material can also affect the usability of the product. For example, a metal handle may seem at first glance the most durable and durable, but keep in mind that in frosty weather it will be very difficult to work with such a blade. Although only metal handles are suitable for folding knives, in this case it is necessary to ensure the possibility of applying great efforts when turning the blade. The best choice of a metal pen would be a product made of titanium - it is lighter than steel and stronger.

Wood is the best option for all-weather use of the blade, but you should be strict about the choice of wood species, giving preference to hard varieties. In addition, the handle must be covered with moisture-repellent compounds. A homemade knife for this is impregnated in vegetable oil. By the way, you can read detailed instructions on this on our website.

Many manufacturers offer a choice of handles made of polymers. However, it should be remembered that after some time all polymers become brittle. Thermoplastics are used to make molded handles, so they can be molded into any shape. The most commonly used polyamide is the most wear-resistant, durable and refractory material with excellent dielectric properties. Leather handles can only be made with infrequent use of the blade, because no matter how you try to protect the skin from getting wet, it will still pick up moisture.

As for the scabbard, the traditional material for the sheath is leather. However, it should be noted that due to the presence of tannins in the material, the leather can affect the color of the steel. Therefore, pay attention to whether there are inserts inside the case that prevent direct contact with the finish.

How to sharpen a knife - the wisdom of a sharp knife

Many ladies determine the level of skill of men by the sharpness of knives in their house. Sharpening, indeed, is a test of patience and skill - you must be prepared for long work and slow results. For sharpening, you will need several bars with different grits - from 1000 to 8000 grains per cubic millimeter, or sandpaper with similar grits.

Sharpening begins with processing the edge with a rough bar - with confident movements we bring it to the point. We monitor the uniformity of sharpening from the heel to the tip. You should not press hard on the blade - this will only spoil the whole process, and it will not affect the blade in the best way. It is enough to press lightly on the handle.

A point has appeared - that's half the battle! However, the point will quickly become unusable if it is not polished. To do this, you need bars with fine grain. First, we correct with a bar with a grain size of 4000, then we bring it to a perfect mirror shine with an eight-thousandth bar. You can perform the same operation with sandpaper - take sheets of paper of different grain sizes and fasten them one by one on a wooden block, sharpen and grind. In this case, you need to drive the knife over the paper, and not vice versa.

In this video tutorial, blogger Mr_Beaver presented improved versions of his pencil sharpener bottle cutters.

Why do you need a bottle cutter?

The cutter is needed to get a rope from a plastic bottle, or rather a PET tape. It is used as a household rope or in decorative items. The advantages of this tape are that it is free and has shrink properties. And its main advantage is that it can be done in conditions where there is no strong rope, but in this place there is such a common plastic bowl. This method is useful in the field, fishing, camping, etc.
At the same time, having received the tape, it can be applied directly in place. For the dissolution of bottles into ribbons, the author uses pencil sharpeners. A sharpener with an aluminum body, a slot, a rounding on the blade is best suited.

Converting the sharpener itself into a bottle cutter takes a few seconds. Unscrew it, take it out, turn it over, insert it with an angle inward and set it at an angle. We twist. The blade has three fixation points. The body does not allow the blade to rise, the edge rests against the body from rotation, and the screw fixes everything. The device is ready.

How to use a bottle cutter?

You need to work with gloves, in their absence, use a cloth or clothing. When cutting the tape, you can cut yourself. The bottle is inserted into the bottle cutter and starts to grab. In the video, the author works for clarity without gloves. The workpiece is leveled.

About the cut itself. Here everyone is looking for what is more convenient for him. The master rests the bottle on himself, slightly pressing the bottle with a cutter. And he begins to pull out the tape, trying to put sharpeners on the body. Gradually leveling, the bottle cutter enters the operating mode and begins to cut the tape evenly. You have to get used to the device. But having done it once, and getting used to it, you can cut a tape from one blank in a minute.

This is an aluminum pencil sharpener. What if it is plastic with a rectangular blade? The author remade the plastic one, took a lighter and a paper clip, made holes and tightened the screws - stops from rotation. But the plastic is fragile and the bottle starts to cut it. Therefore, plastic should not be used. But it is possible to dissolve a dozen bottles. The author of this development uses aluminum sharpeners. They are more comfortable and durable.

About Bottle Cutter Data Improvements

To cut the bottle, you need a knife, it is advisable to have it on the device itself, and not separately. We no longer need a knife and a screwdriver. Having made a notch on the screw itself, it can be unscrewed with keys, a coin, etc. Here we unscrew with a coin, and we take out the blade.

The master soldered a nut on the screw, and it became very convenient to unscrew it with your fingers. He unscrewed, took out the blade, cut the workpiece, twisted it. Depending on the goals, you can put it in bottle cutter or sharpener mode. The latter gives a valuable material in the campaign as shavings from dry wood - kindling or tinder for a fire.

Here are two bottle cutters, a key chain and a camp cutter. Here I soldered a piece of copper wire to the screw. The blade is easy to unscrew. But since it's all unscrew and a lot of small details that can be lost. I made an additional knife on the body itself. Two screws, knife axis and stop. This is a piece of blade from a small clerical knife. Very convenient, got it, cut the bottle, folded it.

Also, the knife can be used for other purposes. Also, the changes affected the body of the sharpener itself. I made two cuts to get tapes of different widths, starting with fishing line. you can’t pull a big fish on it, but you can sew something, etc. And get ribbons of different widths. On hikes, there is a need to get wider bands. Therefore, I added a mini bottle cutter from a straw. Watch the Mr_Beaver channel for more detailed videos about miniature devices of this kind. Wide ribbons are obtained and they can be used in structures - a stool, a chair, a lounger.

The next changes are hanging holes. This is a keychain. I inserted paper clips in the marching one and hung up an additional one. Paper clips are a good material in themselves, and can be used to make a needle, pin, fishhook, etc. Simple improvements greatly expanded the functionality of the pencil sharpener.

About further improvements. May be completed with an eternal match, a lighter, a flashlight, etc. There will be more improvements, a lot of ideas. It turned out such convenient compact multifunctional camping devices. That's all. Available for cutting ribbons. Thank you for your attention.

Almost every person in life is faced with the question of sharpening knives. After all, any knife, regardless of its quality, sooner or later becomes dull. Therefore, the blade must be carefully looked after.

In stores today you can choose any sharpener among a huge variety.

What are sharpening stones?

In general, there are several main types of such devices. Namely:

Oil, on the surface of which there is oil, especially to save material.

Water, similar to the previous one, but water is used here.

Natural, industrially processed.

Artificial, made from non-natural materials.

Rubber, extremely rare. Completely inconvenient to use.

Nuances in the issue of sharpening

There are moments in sharpening every knife.

For example, a Japanese self-sharpening type requires special attention from a rather experienced specialist, since the Japanese type of steel is quite fragile. To sharpen them, manufacturers give a recommendation to use different water stones, endowed with a variety of grain sizes.

Mistresses use sharpeners bought in the store for sharpening. When using several knives, their sharpness lasts longer.

But this is very important, even though it takes a lot of time and effort.

How to sharpen knives properly?

For this, special conditions must be created. Thanks to them, the knife will remain sharp for a very long time.

Therefore, it is important to choose the right angle at which you will sharpen your knives. According to the basic rule in this matter, the smaller the angle at which the knife is sharpened, the stronger the cutting edge will be.

It is important not to forget that the next sharpening depends on the maximum sharpness. The sharper the knife, the faster it will need to be sharpened. At the same time, it will be much more difficult to make it “workable” again.

Why sharpen knives?

The purpose of sharpening is to restore the sharpness of the blade. To do this, take care of the correct sharpening angle. That is, it is necessary to restore the previously set angle that meets the standards from a technological point of view.

To check how well the sharpening is done, cut the material that is cut with the blade of this particular knife. If the material is cut elementarily, you will do everything absolutely right.

Possible problems during the sharpening process

In order to choose the right angle correctly, it is important to have some experience, without which it is quite difficult to cope with this issue. And even more so if there is no special equipment for this.

After all, if you hold the knife with your hands during the sharpening process, it is quite difficult to achieve its ideal “sharpness” as a result.

How do you sharpen knives at home?

Sometimes it happens that the knife needs to be sharpened quickly. A block of wood, a hacksaw, sandpaper, a ceramic plate, a chisel, etc. can come in handy here.

And there are even those who can sharpen on the foundation of cement with sand. But, this method is not recommended at all. After all, there are many other and more proven ones!

The best of all is to make a homemade device. It is not only convenient, but also indistinguishable from the factory.

How to sharpen a planer knife

An experienced professional master who has not only knowledge, but also skills in this matter can handle knives of such a plan. The process is quite complicated actually.

At the same time, in a simple store, equipment for sharpening such a knife is quite difficult to find. You should know that a modern tool will help here, in which you can set low speeds with water cooling.

It is necessary to apply a new stone on which a flat surface. The best will be exactly the water type of stone.

In addition, without having certain experience and skills in sharpening planing knives, you can also contact the service station, where you probably have equipment such as a sharpener.

The simplest variation of sharpening is a home-made device made of wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same size. Wooden products must first be treated with sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.

The manufacturing procedure itself will not cause difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required angle of sharpening the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive blanks. Then attach whetstones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is cuts: according to the marking, make cuts of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm on both wooden products. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and fix them with bolts.

Advice. So that the resulting device does not slip on the surface during the maintenance of the knives, attach a rubber gasket to it from below - it will give the device the necessary stability.

Massive sharpener on a stand

A more complex variation of the knife sharpener is a stand with a separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. For its manufacture you will need:

chipboard sheet;
wood block 8 cm long and 2x4 cm in section;
steel rod M6 or M8;
plexiglass 6x12 cm;
magnet with holes for fasteners;
self-tapping screws, bolts, wing nuts;
wooden clamps;
rubber feet;
saw and drill.

Sharpener construction scheme:

Cut three blanks from a chipboard sheet: 7x8 cm, 8x30 cm and 12x37 cm.
On the oblong side of the workpiece 8x30 cm, stepping back 6 cm from the edge, make a hole.
In the corners of the workpiece 12x37 cm, drill holes for the legs.
Drill two through perpendicular holes in a wooden block: the first - 3 cm from the edge, the second - 3 cm from the first. From the edge of the product to the first hole, cut out a recess 1 cm thick.
Make a cut in the center of the plexiglass strip.
On a workpiece 12x37 cm, stepping back 4 cm from the edge, fix the workpiece 7x8 cm perpendicularly with two screws. Fix the workpiece 8x30 cm from above with self-tapping screws.
At the highest point of the installed workpiece 8x30 cm, drill a small recess and fix the magnet in it with self-tapping screws. Put plexiglass on the same workpiece - fasten the products with a bolt through the previously made hole and slot.
On any edge of the workpiece 12x37 cm, drill a hole for a steel sharpening rod and fix it there with a wing nut.
Put a bar on the rod, securing it with a bolt and nut.
From the rod, nuts and two clips, assemble a knife holder.
Screw the legs to the finished stand.

How to sharpen a knife?

For high-quality, it is still not enough to build one of the above devices - you also need to master the rules of manual sharpening, and figure out the order of work.

First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Then, with smooth movements, alternately “away from you” and “towards you”, begin to drive the blade along the grinding element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement, it should go along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, the movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.

Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener, and not fall off it, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.

Drive the blade along the sharpener with one side until a barb appears on its back side - then turn the knife over and start sharpening the second side of the blade in the same way. Continue sharpening with alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.

How to determine the angle of sharpening?

The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required angle of inclination of the blades. It depends on the scope of a particular tool and the range of tasks that are assigned to it:

Razor of any type - an angle of 10-15 degrees.
Fillet knife - 15 degrees.
Knife for fruits, bread and vegetables - 15-20 degrees.
Multifunctional tools for cutting food - 20-25 degrees.
Hunting knives - 25 degrees. Such blades are designed for cutting not only soft products, but also wood, bones, and tissues.

Utility knives for general use - 25-30 degrees.
Tourist and camping knives - 30-35 degrees.
Knives for cutting hard materials - 30-50 degrees. The larger the sharpening angle, the worse such a knife cuts food, but the better it copes with wood, trunks, and plastic.

Please note that there are also combined knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.

So, assembling a knife sharpener with your own hands is an excellent way out of a situation where there is no desire to buy a professional device or regularly contact the craftsmen for tool maintenance. Here are two options for making sharpeners of different levels of complexity - choose which one is within your power and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.

DIY knife sharpener: video

With the help of a knife, we cook food, cut food and perform other household chores. Therefore, it is very important that the blade of the knife always remains sharp. Theoretically, there is nothing complicated in sharpening knives, but in practice it turns out that not everyone can sharpen a blade well. To have an idea of how to sharpen knives and how to do it correctly, we advise you to read our article.

Before you start sharpening a knife, you need to find out what material it is made of. There are several types of knives:

- Carbon steel knives are the most affordable, made from an alloy of iron and carbon, easy to sharpen and stay sharp for a long time. Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that the oxidation of the knife blade from interaction with food or an acidic environment, because of this, rust and stains appear on the knife, and the products acquire a metallic taste. Over time, after the formation of plaque on the blade, oxidation stops.

- Low carbon stainless steel knives are made from an alloy of iron, chromium, carbon and in some cases nickel or molybdenum. Stainless steel knives are inferior in hardness to carbon steel, so they dull quickly and require regular sharpening. The advantages include - resistance to corrosion.

- High carbon stainless steel knives are a higher class of knives, with a higher carbon content and additions of cobalt or vanadium. Due to a higher quality alloy, this type of knife does not require frequent sharpening and is not subject to corrosion.

- Damascus steel knives are mainly made as edged weapons, but there are also kitchen options. The Damascus steel knife is a multi-layer blade made of different high quality alloys. The disadvantages include the high cost of knives.

Ceramic knives have gained popularity because of their sharpness and ability not to dull for a long time. But in addition to the advantages, ceramic knives have a significant disadvantage, which is their fragility when falling from a height and poor fracture resistance.

Sharpening tools

Touchstone (whetstone)

Whetstones are available with a different number of abrasive grains per square millimeter. Therefore, for rough sharpening and finishing grinding, it is necessary to use bars with a minimum and maximum abrasive content. In foreign-made whetstones, information about the number of abrasive grains is on their marking. Grinding bars of domestic production have to be chosen "by eye" or ask the seller which whetstone to use for primary and which for finishing sharpening.

Mechanical sharpener

Mechanical sharpeners are mainly used for sharpening kitchen knives. The sharpening process, although it happens quickly, but the quality leaves much to be desired. For this reason, for hunting and sporting knives, it is recommended to use other sharpening methods.

electric sharpener

Modern models of electric sharpeners allow you to achieve high quality sharpening, due to the built-in function, automatic detection of the angle of the blade. The electric sharpener is perfect for both domestic use and for sharpening knives in catering establishments. The range of electric sharpeners is presented in a wide range, so the price may be different, but if you want your knives to always remain sharp, then buy more "advanced" and expensive models.

Musat

Musat - designed to maintain the sharpness of the edge of the knife. In shape, musat resembles a round file with a handle. Musats are included in knife sets, and many owners often confuse them with a tool for full-fledged sharpening of the blade. Please note that with the help of musat you will be able to maintain the sharpness of a sharpened knife, but if the knife is completely dull, it will not work to sharpen it with musat.

Sharpener "Lansky"

This sharpener is used for sharpening small and medium-sized knives. The design of the sharpener allows you to sharpen the blade at your chosen angle. Sharpener "Lansky" consists of a rod with a removable whetstone and two corners connected to each other. The corners simultaneously serve as a vise for the knife and a scale for selecting the sharpening angle. The sharpener also comes with ANSI marked whetstones in various grit sizes.

Sharpening and grinding machines

Sharpening machines are mainly used in production, for high-precision sharpening of blades of rotating shafts. In addition to high-precision machines, there are electrically driven abrasive wheels and rotating grinding discs. Sharpening knives on such machines should only be done by an experienced craftsman, because due to the speed of rotation of the circle or disk and the high heating temperature, with any unsuccessful movement, the knife blade will become unusable.

Self-sharpening blades

Sharpening a knife with a whetstone

The sharpening of the blade, made by a whetstone, is considered the highest quality, of course, provided that it was produced by an experienced craftsman. To sharpen a knife on a whetstone, do the following:

1. Place a whetstone with a low content of abrasive grains on a fixed surface. If the bar is small, it can be clamped in a vise.

1. Holding the knife at an angle of 20-25 degrees with respect to the surface of the bar, start moving the knife along the whetstone with the cutting edge forward.

Move the blade along the bar in such a way that during the movement it touches the surface of the whetstone, along its entire length.
Try to keep the same blade angle while moving.
After 2-3 strokes, turn the knife over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side of the blade.
Thus, alternating sides, sharpen the knife until an edge (burr) appears along the edge of the blade.
Change the rough sharpening stone for a grinding stone.
Sand the knife blade until the edge is gone.
Test the sharpness of a knife by cutting through a hemp rope that has been folded several times, or try cutting through a piece of paper.

How to sharpen a knife with a whetstone, see also the video:

Sharpening a hunting knife on a Lansky sharpener

Hunting knives are made of hard steel, so their initial sharpening requires whetstones with a low content of abrasive grains.

Clamp the knife in the vise of the sharpener.
Install a whetstone with a low content of abrasive grains on the shaft.
Select the angle of the bar (for hunting knives it is usually between 20 and 30 degrees).
Insert the rod into the desired hole.
Lubricate the whetstone with the special oil included in the sharpener set.
Start moving the bar along the blade of the knife, from the base to the tip.
Turn the sharpener over and repeat the process on the other side of the knife.
After the edge is formed, change the stone and do the final sanding.
Since hunting knives are mainly made with a double-edged blade, after completing sharpening on one side, change the position of the knife in the vise and start the sharpening process on the other side.
When finished sharpening, polish the knife blade with felt.

How to sharpen knives in a Lansky sharpener, see the video:

Sharpening scissors

Sharpening scissors must be done on a special grinding machine. Sharpening blades with the help of improvised (sandpaper, the edge of a glass, etc.) can temporarily improve the sharpness of scissors, but not for long. If you do not have the opportunity to sharpen scissors from a professional, then you can try to sharpen your own on an abrasive stone. When sharpening, you need to follow a few simple rules:

The sharpening stone should be fine-grained.
The blade is sharpened over the entire surface of the edge at the same time.
The angle of the blade must match the factory edge.
The movement of the blade over the stone must be done from the screw to the tip.
You need to sharpen scissors in disassembled form.

When sharpening scissors, do not rush, patience in this matter will be your ally.

How to quickly sharpen scissors, you can also see in the video:

Sharpening plane and chisel blades

Sharpening the blade of a planer and a chisel practically does not differ from each other. Therefore, the sharpening process described below applies to both tools:

Set the chisel on the whetstone at an angle of 30-40 degrees.
Holding the chisel with your hand, use the fingers of your free hand to press the bevel against the whetstone.
Start running the chisel over the grindstone until a burr forms on the smooth side of the chisel.
Change the whetstone to a fine-grained one and do the final grinding of the chisel.
Check the sharpness of the chisel blade by removing chips from the corner of the bar.

In addition to manual sharpening, the chisel can be sharpened on a machine with a rotating abrasive disc:

Turn on the machine and let the disc reach full speed.
Holding the chisel with both hands, lean its bevel against the grinding wheel.
Be sure to observe the angle of the chisel, otherwise you will ruin the blade of the tool.
Do not press the chisel with too much force and do not hold it too long on the disk, this will lead to overheating of the metal and destruction of the blade.
While sharpening, wet the blade with water.
The final grinding of the chisel blade is best done by hand, using a fine-grained bar or sandpaper.

Do not forget that when sharpening products on the machine, a lot of sparks and small particles are formed that can get into your eyes, so be sure to work with safety glasses. And in order not to injure your hands on a spinning disk, wear gloves.

You can also learn how to sharpen tools from the video:

Tips for quickly sharpening the blade with improvised means

A rock

To quickly sharpen a knife on a hike or on a picnic, you can use an ordinary cobblestone. Use any stone lying on the ground instead of a whetstone and run the blade of a knife along its surface. You will not achieve razor sharpness, but you will return the knife to working condition.

Second knife

It is quite possible to sharpen two knives at once, without sharpening stones and accessories. To do this, you need to take a knife in both hands and start sharpening the blade of one knife on the blade of another. After 5-10 minutes of this work, the knives will become sharper than before.

glass items

The blade of a knife can be sharpened slightly on the rough edge of glass or ceramic objects. For example, about the bottom of a glass or the edge of a tile. The main thing is that the surface is rough.

Leather belt

A leather belt is more suitable for finishing and razor sharpening a knife blade than for rough sharpening. But if there is nothing at hand except for the belt, then you can try to sharpen the knife on it. To do this, you need to give the belt a stretch and start driving along it with a blade, you may not achieve strong sharpness, but you will polish the knife to a shine.

By learning how to sharpen knives and tools yourself, you will acquire a skill that will be useful to you throughout your life!

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