Scandinavian paint for wood. Recipes for self-made paints for wooden surfaces

Wooden buildings and architectural structures are in trend today, but their coloring and treatment with special compounds that protect against external influences, rot, mold, fungi, wood-destroying insects turn into large expenses and annual troubles. There is a simpler and more budgetary way to get rid of all these troubles at once and keep a presentable appearance of the house, bathhouse, gazebo, barn, fence for years: these are paints brewed by hand according to Scandinavian recipes.

Cooking Swedish paint

In Sweden, houses made of natural wood are very fond of. But they have to be protected from the effects of climatic conditions - in this cool kingdom, prolonged rains in autumn and frosts in winter are frequent.

The Swedish composition perfectly protects buildings and keeps their appearance in excellent condition. You can weld such paint yourself.

Manufacturing instructions

We knead the "dough" (flour + water) - again achieving a "sour cream" effect. Pour hot water in small portions, gradually, up to a volume of 6 liters. It is recommended to strain the resulting mixture. Then we put it on a slow fire, stir, track, so as not to bring to a boil. In the process of stirring, the right amount of salt, vitriol, dye is added. The remaining water, after boiling, is added to the mixture. The composition for painting is ready. It is consumed approximately 300 g per sq. m, the masters recommend applying it twice, like the Swedish one.

If you want to achieve an unusual shade, it is permissible to add other pigments (inorganic) to the composition:

• for a redder color - brick powder (finely crush the brick);
• you can boil and evaporate sunflower seeds, cornflower flowers, walnut bark.

How to paint with Finnish and Swedish paint

Scandinavian compositions perfectly protect wood from rot and mold, do not require updating for several years, without fading or peeling. Conventional oil paint accumulates moisture under the painted layer; in a humid environment, microorganisms that destroy wood readily multiply. But you need to cook and use Scandinavian paints correctly:

1. When cooking, add all the ingredients without removing the composition from the heat. Use enamelware.
2. Check the readiness of the paint by dipping a cleanly planed chip into it. Dry the “probe” in the wind or in the sun, try to wipe off the paint with your hand. Keep - ready.
3. If the surface was previously painted with an oil composition, it must be completely cleaned. Freshly planed wood must be deresined - the resin will interfere with the adhesion (sticking) of the paint. For deresining, you will need a 5–10% soda ash solution heated to 40–60 ° C - wipe the surface of the wood twice or thrice, then rinse thoroughly with warm water.
4. Swedish and Finnish paints are applied without a preliminary primer.
5. Do not let the composition cool down - use it warm (you can wrap the container with it).
6. If the mixture begins to thicken, it is permissible to dilute it a little with warm water. Do not overdo it, otherwise the composition will become less durable.
7. To paint the wood, take a brush of a suitable size, for plaster - a roller.
8. It is recommended to color in the afternoon.

Wood processing with a Scandinavian composition

The preparation of Scandinavian paints is a simple process, and the effect is wonderful. Painted buildings and structures retain their color for a long time, the wood “breathes”, the surfaces have an aesthetic appearance.

To prepare Finnish paint, you will need the following components: flour
wheat or rye - 720g; iron vitriol - 1560g; water - 9l.
The secret of paint is not only in the composition, but also in strict adherence to technology
cooking. First, they take flour and 6 liters of water and prepare a paste,
why cold water is gradually added to the flour and stirred until
until the flour acquires the consistency of thick sour cream. Then
the remaining water from 6 liters is poured into the paste in a hot state.

After this procedure, the paste is filtered and put on fire. Gradually
while stirring the mixture, salt is added to it, then iron sulfate, then
dry lime pigment. Now to get a working paint job
composition, the remaining 3 liters of hot water are poured into the mixture.

The resulting paint is applied to the surface in two layers. Need
paints per square meter - 300g. Primer for this paint
required. The advantage of Finnish paint is not only that approximately
for 20 years or more, you will not have any trouble with
the structure that was painted with it, but also in its hygiene.

According to the Finnish composition: table salt - 360 g, lime pigment - 1560 g.

SWEDISH COMPOSITION:

In the process of preparation, alkali-resistant iron-containing pigments are used for tinting - iron minium, mummy, ocher, umber, etc. As a rule, Swedish paint has rich red, brown or yellow tones.

If you need to achieve some original color of Finnish paint, you can add various inorganic pigments to the composition: finely grated red brick, evaporated decoctions of cornflower, walnut bark, sunflower seeds, etc.

Rye or wheat flour - 1160 g, iron sulfate - 520 g, table salt - 520 g, dry lime pigment - 520 g, natural drying oil - 480 g, water - 9 l.
A paste is prepared from flour and 6 liters of water: the flour is poured with a small amount of cold water and kneaded; the resulting "dough" is diluted with cold water to the consistency of sour cream. The water remaining from 6 liters is boiled and poured into the "sour cream" in a thin stream with continuous stirring. The resulting paste is filtered and put on fire. Salt, vitriol are poured into the hot solution and mixed. Then the coloring pigment is added and again thoroughly mixed. Then, stirring vigorously, pour drying oil in a thin stream. At the end, add the remaining 3 liters of hot water, bringing the composition to a paint consistency.
The paint is applied to the wooden surface with a paint or terry brush once - evenly, with wide strokes, while rubbing in to fill all the pores and cracks. Do not leave unpainted areas, since with a later painting it will no longer be possible to make a smooth surface.
Swedish paint, being quite cheap, is most often covered with outbuildings, shingled roofs, and sometimes the walls of residential buildings. It is unsuitable for windows and doors, since only unplaned boards are painted with it.

LINSEED OIL (very good for wood)

Linseed oil is a classic method using natural preparations to treat wood types such as birch to achieve a long lasting, durable and moisture resistant surface. possible options:

1. Raw linseed oil, undiluted oil drying oil.

application example: Knife handle (or other product)
need to be placed in linseed oil for several days.

To do this, the knife can be placed in a jar with a screw-on lid with a thin slot for the blade, which, after placing the knife in it, must be hermetically sealed.

When the wood of the cutting is soaked through, it must be wiped with a smooth, dry rag. After that, let it dry completely for a few weeks. When the oil evaporates, the surface is oxidized and polymerized, which after some time becomes strong and elastic.

2. Linseed oil diluted by 50% with turpentine. Liquid prepared from linseed oil of real natural turpentine (do not use substitutes!) in a ratio of 1 to 1.

With the help of turpentine, the drying time of the wood and the oxidation of the oil is reduced.
Application: (see 1). Drying time is 1-2 weeks.

3. Linseed oil with tar.

The addition of 50% tar gives the wood a red-brown hue. (apply see 1)
Use only natural tar, after application carefully wipe off the remaining oil with a soft and smooth rag.

CAUTION: When using linseed oil, there is a risk of spontaneous combustion of rags soaked in linseed solution. Therefore, throw away with extreme care, so as not to lead to fire!

* WOODEN PRODUCTS CAN BE WAXED, here is one of the varnish recipes:

LAC. COMPOSITION:
wax - 100h
rosin - 25 hours
turpentine 50h (parts are indicated by weight).

Grind and melt rosin and wax, mix, then remove from heat and pour in turpentine, mix thoroughly. Coating recipes are different and here you can and should try different compositions. Another way of such folk varnish is rosin dissolved in turpentine.

* SEVERAL OLD RECIPES FOR CHEAP AND DURABLE PAINTS FOR WOODEN SURFACES:

• COTTAGE CHEESE AND LIME:

Equal amounts of fresh cottage cheese and slaked lime are thoroughly kneaded. A white, rapidly drying liquid is formed.
It must be used the same day, because it quickly deteriorates.

Ocher and some other colors can be added to this composition. In this case, it is necessary to use as little water as possible, as it negatively affects strength.

The paint dries very quickly and does not leave the slightest smell. Therefore, it is possible to cover the surface with two layers in one day.

To give the color more strength, after applying two layers, it is polished with pieces of coarse cloth.

• STARCH AND PAINTING:

From 10 weight parts of wheat starch, filled with cold water, a composition is obtained that resembles thick sour cream in consistency.

Stirring constantly, boiled water is added until the composition of the desired density is formed. For greater strength, 1 part alum or borax can be added to the warm paste.

To prepare the paint, zinc white and any colored paint, vegetable or mineral, are added to the still hot paste.

Then zinc chloride is dissolved in water and a small amount of tartaric acid is added to it.

Before use, mix the first mixture with this solution. The amount of material and proportions do not matter much. The paint is applied in the usual way. It is low flammable, not afraid of dampness and cold water, but it can be washed off with hot water and soap.

• POTATO PAINT:

Take 1 kilogram of potatoes and boil it. Peel while still hot, pour 4 large mugs of water. After that, it is necessary to knead everything into porridge and rub through a sieve so that no lumps remain. Add 1.5 kilograms of powdered chalk, which is pre-diluted in 4 cups of water. The result will be about 8 mugs of grayish, durable, good opaque and very cheap paint.

All of these paints have been tested and give excellent results.

* PROCESSING OF WOODEN (etc.) PRODUCTS:

1. In order to prevent the wooden product from cracking and crumbling into pieces, it was boiled for 1-2 hours in a solution of fly ash. After that, they dried it, and, if necessary, continued processing of finer details.

ASH LYE is an ancient recipe of our ancestors, used both for washing woven products and for processing wooden products.

Alkali is made simply - firewood is burned (best of all - birch) to the state of white ash (ash). Ash (ash) is filled with water, into which, during soaking, all alkaline groups of substances pass. After that, the sediment can be used for fertilizer for the soil (it is not dangerous for plants because it does not contain "soap"), and the water can be used for washing or for processing wood products.

2. In a strong decoction of crushed OAK BARK, our ancestors either boiled (a couple of hours) or soaked (for a day) products not only from wood, but also all kinds of wicker products - from bast, flax, hemp, reed ... Tannins strengthened the product so much that, for example, ropes and ropes increased their strength by an order of magnitude.

Article with personal practical experience. When was the last time you painted your house? This year I had to feel the price of paint. And at the same time I felt how the system… “protects” us from unnecessary knowledge and feeds on it.

I decided to paint the house, which is already 6 years old, and at the same time a workshop and a guest house. Until they're in the middle. And how it began: jar after jar, that was not enough, then it did not fit. As a result, paint is the second largest waste this season - 20 thousand rubles.

I think this is unreasonable. It's like if a woman buys a dress, if she sews beautifully herself, but is too lazy to find a suitable pattern.

It is one thing to buy seedlings, seeds, mycorrhiza for 20,000 rubles - this is an investment for centuries! Or dig a pond for centuries. Or buy 20,000 boards and roofs to attach a veranda - it will definitely stand for 20 years.

What about paint? First, nothing really changes in life. Secondly, there is just enough paint for 5-7 years, then it spoils the mood with its appearance.

Decided it was unwise to invest in the insignificant. Moreover, you can make the paint yourself. Higher quality, in any quantities and very cheap!

I first learned about homemade paint from friends in the Ark - they painted their house like that. Several years have passed and I have matured. Further information from them.

Hello Vadim!
Here is the Finnish composition that we used and the recipe for its preparation. I don't remember where I copied it from.

Finnish paint recipe

Remember how Tom Sawyer toiled when Aunt Polly made him paint the fence? It turned out that in vain we all spend so much effort on painting wooden structures.

Practical residents of Finland have found that oil paint does not contribute to the durability of wooden houses. Studies have shown that moisture accumulates under the paint, creating an optimal environment for the development of microorganisms that destroy wood.

Better to use our Finnish composition, they say. Indeed, such houses, picket fences, stand for decades without being destroyed. I propose to promote the Finnish composition for painting houses, buildings, fences in Russia more widely. This will save billions, it is better to preserve the housing stock and outbuildings. The Finnish composition, frankly, is a godsend for the villagers, gardeners.

Finnish composition for coloring:

• rye or wheat flour - 720 g,
• iron vitriol - 1560 g,
• table salt - 360 g,
• dry lime pigment - 1560 g,
• water - 9 l.

The highlight, as they say, lies in the strict observance of the technology for preparing the Finnish composition. First prepare the paste. They take flour, gradually add cold water in order to bring the flour to the consistency of thick sour cream. The rest of the 6 liters of water is topped up while hot. Now the paste is filtered and put on fire.

Constantly stirring, salt is added, then iron sulfate, dry lime pigment. Now pour in the rest of the water (hot) to obtain a working paint composition.

Apply to the surface with a brush in two passes. Solution consumption - 300 g per square meter. If the house or picket fence was previously painted with oil paint, it is completely cleaned off. Primer is not required. A picket fence treated with a Finnish composition can stand without repair for up to 20 years.

It is known that houses painted with oil paint do not pass air well. The composition is devoid of this drawback. It is advisable to arrange the production of kits of the Finnish composition with instructions attached. Everyone will benefit.

Our experience:

We read this recipe, got inspired and decided to try it. Iron vitriol is no longer sold in stores (or you have to look hard), but it was at the Bird Market in Moscow. He's probably on some base.

I believe that any person, having a telephone directory and a telephone, can easily cope with the search for vitriol even in a small town (especially if the answer: “We don’t sell vitriol”, ask: “Maybe you know where it is sold?”. As a rule, people are willing to share this information).

The bigger mystery for us was the “lime pigment”. It took a little longer to find him. First it was necessary to understand what it was in order to be able to explain to the sellers (they all, as one, ask again: “Lime?” - “No” - “Chalk?” - “No, it’s pigment. Limestone.” - “What this?")

As the name implies, a pigment is an additive that sets the color of the mixture. Apparently, before the pigment was a common commodity. Most often it is a finely ground colored clay. This is perhaps the best and most environmentally friendly option. For example, I would avoid pigments based on chromium oxides (green) and so on. Moreover, they are noticeably more expensive than ground clay.

As a result, we found some kind of base in the Moscow region that sells pigments. We made a joint purchase, collecting orders for the settlement.

When we had all the ingredients, we prepared the paint according to the indicated recipe. They wrapped the bucket in a blanket and painted the house with a hot mixture, using ordinary brushes and cut plastic canisters as temporary containers.

Notes.

1. If there are wooden elements on the house that you want to leave a natural wooden color, then do not touch them with paint: the wood immediately darkens from iron sulfate. This is not visible under the paint, but if you wash it off, then there will be gray wood (the same as uncovered old boards).

2. Galvanized nail heads will lose the zinc layer (iron is restored from vitriol by oxidizing zinc. So you can not buy galvanized nails, but just simple iron ones, they are cheaper).

3. Need sunny weather during painting and a couple of days after it.

4. In the rain, a wet wall is slightly smeared. We reassure ourselves that the walls of the house are not built to rub against them in the rain (there is a composition with the addition of drying oil: they write that it does not smear).

5. Went 7 years (for 2014), the paint is holding. In places most intensively watered by rain, the effect of transparency appeared and the color was slightly lost. But you can see the texture of the wood and it still creates a pleasant look. In any case, it is by no means sloppy (in dry weather, the wall looks more beautiful than in wet weather).

6. Painting a two-story house, 6x6 m in size in two layers, cost 260 rubles (two hundred and sixty rubles, and most of the price is pigment).

Summary. In general, the result is good. The house looks good. Summer 2014 I want to repaint the composition with linseed oil.
A few words about drying oil. Natural drying oil is, most often, natural linseed oil. It is also called technical linseed oil.

Linseed oil has one effect, which is why it is used to coat wood: when heated and applied to wood, it absorbs and dries, forming a durable protective layer. Drying occurs because flaxseed oil contains unsaturated fatty acids (omega-3 and others). Not all oils dry out over time, some form a non-drying and sticky film to the touch.

All "regular" drying oils sold in stores contain a mixture of vegetable and synthetic oils. By themselves, they dry out worse than heated linseed oil (or do not dry at all). In order to make it convenient for painters (so as not to heat up and then not wait until it dries), manufacturers add special substances (driers) to the oil mixture that speed up the drying process of the oil.

Unfortunately, the most common and simplest (cheapest) additive is lead compounds. Therefore, drying oil is not recommended for indoor use.

Technical flaxseed oil is not so easy to get, but in almost every supermarket there is ordinary edible flaxseed oil, which costs about 100 rubles per half liter (there are more expensive, but why?). Maybe you'll be lucky to buy expired, if you ask the merchandiser.

Floor covering
There is also an interesting experience in covering the floor with linseed oil and wax.

He heated linseed oil in a saucepan, put a piece of natural beeswax there (for 0.5 liters of oil - a piece the size of half a little finger). The temperature of the oil was determined by dipping a match into the oil. If it starts to "squirt", then it's time to paint. It is better to use a brush with natural pile, plastic will melt. If the oil is overheated, then it is better to wait to cool down, because otherwise the natural brush will “curl”.

The oil is applied to the surface not like when painting, but is rubbed in small amounts: you dip the brush a little and then rub it with effort over as large a surface as possible. Naturally, boards should be not only dry and planed, but also polished, this reduces oil consumption and makes the surface more pleasant to the touch, almost glossy.

The work of rubbing oil is a good physical activity. But the better you rub it, the better the coating will be. Do not forget about the temperature of the oil. If it has cooled down, you need to heat it up again (hot oil penetrates deeper into the wood).

Thus, I covered half the floor on the second floor with one layer. Three years later, the coating not only did not wipe off, but became even smoother and matte-glossy (an intermediate option between gloss and a simple matte board). The color of the wood has not changed at all.

Since I covered only half of the floor (I didn’t have time then, and then I didn’t have time), now the difference between the covered and uncovered floors is visible. Coated looks just as good as it did 3 years ago, maybe even better due to the extra polishing with the feet. The uncoated floor acquired a slightly grayish faded tint (compared to the coated one) and dried out more.

There is something to compare it with: with nothing covered floor on the veranda and the floor on the first floor, covered with "yacht varnish". The bare floor grays a little, and the varnish cracks, scratches and rubs over time (partly due to the softness of the spruce), and the cracks, scratches and abrasions darken. And this happens already for 2-3 years of operation.

Summary:

If I knew in advance, I would immediately cover the entire floor with heated linseed oil and wax (however, so far there is no experience of observing the coating in places of the most intense abrasive wear, on the veranda, in the hallway). But so far - this is the best and most stable option, and very inexpensive.

"Yacht varnishes" seem to be more suitable for hardwoods. But still it cracks, gets dirty, wipes off. After 3 years, the look is already sloppy.

In those places of the house where a person’s foot rarely steps, you can leave just a wooden floor. It fades a bit over time, but that's not a problem.

Vadim Karabinsky

When building a house, garage and other buildings made of wood, it is necessary to paint wooden surfaces. We will not talk about the naturalness and environmental friendliness of wood, but we will focus your attention on the colorful coating, which, as a rule, is purchased ready-made, in a store or on the market.

In our time, we are already accustomed to buying ready-made paint, produced at a paint and varnish enterprise. Let's face it, you have to pay a lot of money for good paint. But most importantly, if we buy some paints that can cover the surface of wood with a film, then there will be no trace of environmental friendliness. We will not only see the colorful coating, but also hide the wood under a layer of paint.

Another thing is natural-based paints that can not only preserve wood, but also give it an elegant look. However, you can not only buy paints, but also cook yourself. Moreover, the manufacture of such natural paint is much cheaper than buying it in a store.

Basically, there are recipes for Finnish paints, probably in Finland they have long understood that paint can be made independently. The composition of the wood paint includes the following components: hot water 80 liters, two buckets of ten liters of diluted rye flour 8 kg, in water, two buckets, 7 kg of iron sulfate, 1 kg of table salt, 6 liters of drying oil and 30 kg of ocher.

There are other recipes for Swedish paint, for example, in smaller volumes of 10 lire: rye flour 800 g, iron sulfate 400 g, salt 250 g, drying oil 300 g, dye, ocher, etc. 300-600 g, and water is added to mixture up to a volume of 10 liters. If you use such paint for painting roofs, then 500 g of drying oil is added.

For painting large surfaces it is convenient to use the so-called "Swedish" paint. We do not mean buying Swedish-made paint. This is just the name of a simple paint that can be prepared at home.

Swedish paint is not as beautiful on the surface as oil or enamel, but it is cheaper and extremely easy to work with. Surfaces are covered with Swedish paint only once. Surfaces do not require preliminary preparation, I counted cleaning from dust, old paint, mold, etc. Swedish paint protects wood from rotting and mold, so to speak, preserves the wood surface with the help of compounds in the mixture (especially iron sulphate). The recipes for Swedish paint are very varied, but the main ingredients are water, salt, rye flour, drying oil and pigment.

The composition of the Swedish paint can be as follows: (to prepare 10 liters of paint)
Rye flour 800 g
Iron vitriol 400 g
Salt 250 g
Drying oil 300 g (500 g)
Pigment 300-600 g
Water (added to the mixture to a volume of 10 liters, i.e. approximately 6 liters)
For painting roofs, 500 g of drying oil is taken per 10 liters of the mixture.

Swedish paint is usually prepared in a large cauldron. Salts (ferrous sulfate, table salt) dissolve in boiling water. In another bowl, rye flour is diluted in water to a slurry and poured into a cauldron in which a solution of salts is boiled. The resulting mixture is boiled for half an hour. Then drying oil is added and the mixture is vigorously stirred until an emulsion is formed. Finally, the pigment mixed in hot water in advance is added until the desired tone is achieved. The resulting mixture is well mixed again and, if necessary, diluted with water to the desired consistency. For the preparation of Swedish paint, it is desirable to use alkali-resistant iron-containing pigments - red iron, mummy, ocher, umber, etc. Swedish paint is usually prepared in red, brown or yellow tones.

Addition
If the wooden surface has a high roughness, then the flour content can be increased.
The flour in the paint smooths out the roughness of the wood, the paint keeps better on a rough surface.
Drying oils in the recipe 300 g - for fences, for roofs - 500 g.

(Iron oxide and other pigments can be purchased from us -

Swedish paint is applied to the surface with a paint brush or fly brush. The mixture is applied evenly over the entire surface with wide strokes and rubbed so that the pores and cracks on the surface of the wood are filled. At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that there are no unpainted areas, since if such areas are painted later, the surface will not be even. You need to paint in cloudy calm weather; in this case, the mixture dries slowly and adheres well to the surface to be painted.
It is advisable to cover with Swedish paint farm buildings, roofs made of shingles, etc. For finishing residential buildings, Swedish paint is used as the cheapest when covering walls. Swedish paint is unsuitable for painting windows and doors; only unplaned boards are painted with it.

Falun red (Falun paint, Swedish Falu rodfarg) is a dark red Swedish paint well known for its use in the exterior painting of wooden houses and outbuildings in Scandinavia. It got its name from a copper mine located in the city