How to sharpen a knife on a sharpening machine. Sharpening tools on an electric grinder

Every self-respecting housewife should have a few good kitchen knives in the kitchen. All products are different, they have different functionality and purpose. But the only requirement they have in common is that the tools must be perfectly sharpened. You can sharpen knives with a bar or use other tools.

Hand and mechanical tools

If you look closely, the kitchen knife is somewhat reminiscent of a saw. If the teeth on it are made frequent and located close to each other, then such a cutter is very functional and only one of them will be enough in the kitchen. It is very important not to forget to sharpen this indispensable tool in time, because over time all knives become dull. In addition, the blade deteriorates from intensive use. The edge begins to crumble, break or rust.

To date, there are many options for sharpening using electric or mechanical sharpeners. There are also special machines with grinding wheels. Unfortunately, sharpeners do not guarantee a good result, and when using a machine, you need to know how to properly sharpen, and even be able to use the mechanism itself. It is much easier to sharpen a knife with a bar at home.

Proper preparation

The most important process before sharpening is to determine the extent of damage to the blade. To do this is quite simple: you need to substitute the blade under the sun's rays and look at an angle. Thus, you can instantly see all the bumps and chips that you have to deal with. Problem areas will look like lines or dots on the blade. When the area on the blade has no transitions, the surface is sharply defined and uniform, this indicates that the knife is already perfectly sharpened.

Before sharpening a dull blade, first wash the knife in water and soap. This procedure is carried out to facilitate subsequent actions. A clean blade will glide perfectly on the surface of the whetstone and hold at the desired angle. When the sharpening process is over, the knife should be washed again with soap and water.

Choice of grindstone

The most important item for sharpening is a bar. To sharpen knives professionally, you need to purchase several stones with different grit sizes. For razor sharpness, use up to five different whetstones.

Sharpeners are of the following types:

• Artificial. They are needed for initial sharpening. These bars are made from synthetic abrasive stones.
• Natural. used for final processing. For their manufacture, diamond, corundum, garnet, Japanese water stone are used.

If we compare the bars in terms of cost, then natural ones are much more expensive than artificial ones, but the result deserves it. It is also necessary to choose the correct size of the stone: it must be the same length as the blade that needs sharpening, or about 2 times larger in size.

As for the width, it does not play a significant role and it can be any. But given that a beginner will have to sharpen the knife, it is still better to choose a bar of greater width, in the future it will be easier for them to work.

Immediately before the sharpening process, you need to soak the stone in the liquid. If it is an artificial bar, then in water, if natural - in oil. This procedure is carried out to close the pores in the stone in order to reduce the risk of contamination.

A bar made of natural stones has a lot of advantages, the main of which is a large grain. It allows you to quickly sharpen the blade, make it sharp without bumps. Also from natural material, but with the addition of synthetic stones, bars with medium and fine grains are produced.

The water-wetted bar can be of various shapes to suit certain knives. It comes in several types: fine, coarse or medium.

One of the most durable products is considered to be sharpeners made using diamond grit, which is embedded in a plastic base. They are made with large grain, with extremely large and thin.

Angle detection

Often, many people make a mistake at the very beginning of the process, because they do not take into account the correct angle of sharpening knives, which is why they quickly become dull and even break. Therefore, it is very important to remember how to sharpen knives with a bar manually, choosing the right angle.

When the angle is very large, then the resistance of the metal to external influences will be higher, which means that re-sharpening will not be needed soon. The sharp angle makes it easy to cut, the only problem is that the metal in the sharpening area is quickly deformed.

An important role is played by the purpose of the knife, depending on this, the desired angle is determined. The following guidelines have been set:

• Japanese knives are sharpened at an angle of 10 to 20 degrees;
• professional and sirloin must be sharpened at an angle of 25 degrees;
• household with a slope of 30 degrees;
• hunting - an angle of 35−40 degrees.

From the very beginning, you should decide on the slope, and in the process stick to it. Alternatively, a sheet of paper folded several times can be used to maintain the angle. Such a meter will be quite accurate and inexpensive. Also on this sheet you can check the sharpness of the blade.

In addition to the sharpening angle, you must also adhere to a certain angle between the stone and the blade. It should be as close to 90° as possible. In other words, the knife should be held with the blade perpendicular to the whetstone.

Step by step procedure

Initially, for sharpening knives, the stone is taken with a coarse grain size. Such a bar is used to eliminate irregularities and chips on the blade, and then a smaller abrasive tool is already used. The smaller the grain size when finishing, the better, because in the end the blade will turn out to be very sharp without any flaws. Finally, you can use grinding paste instead of a bar.

The sequence of actions for sharpening:

Most people are looking for a whetstone for easy and efficient sharpening. As a rule, sharpening occurs on both sides of the blade, each side is processed in turn. First, the whole process is carried out with large grains, and only then with small ones. Therefore, it is very convenient to use a double-sided bar.

No less popular are ceramic whetstones for sharpening knives. They can be used in many ways, for example, sharpening one side, and only then the other. On each side, it is desirable to carry out from 15 to 30 movements with a bar. In this case, the pressing force does not play a role.

After each sharpening, you need to wash the blade with water, thereby washing away the dust that has appeared from the metal. This action must be repeated regularly and in the interval between sharpening.

It will not be difficult to sharpen a knife on your own, the only thing you should pay attention to is that when sharpening, you do not need to remove a lot of steel from the blade, as this contributes to rapid wear and the blade simply breaks.

Experts advise to start practicing on an old knife, which is not a pity. When you manage to sharpen it perfectly, you can move on to your favorite tool.

Types of thin sections

On the market there are bars with different types of grain. Among them it is worth highlighting the following:

• large - used to restore the correct angle, as well as to sharpen the cutting edge;
• medium - used to restore the sharpness of the blade;
• thin - with its help they make clean grinding and editing.

Basically, bars with medium grain are used for everyday life. They can quickly and easily restore the sharpness of the blade, making it even and smooth.

Here, posts about sharpening from the basics to the professional level will be consistently laid out.

Stay with us.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 1.

Conventionally, stones are divided into three categories:
1. Rough edge forming;
2. medium to obtain a preliminary cut;
3. finishing, to obtain the highest possible sharpness.
In fact, the stones, depending on the condition, are larger than the blade, since the difference in grain size between abrasives should differ by 2 times. with rare exceptions, but more on that later. A beginner will not pull such a number of stones. Therefore, it is better to use an easier way for beginners. This is sandpaper.
It is easier to buy, if necessary, sheets of paper from 280-320 grit to 2500 grit and above. yes, they are short-lived, but the whole set will be cheaper than one 1000 grit water stone.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 2.

PREPARATION OF THE WORKPLACE.

It is important, having a grindstone to fix it.

The Japanese at Rockstead use the attachment shown in the photographs to attach the skins. The skin can also be attached with clerical clips to a smooth and even surface, or glued with double tape to a smooth bar. If you hold the whetstone with your hands, then everything is simple, but if the stone is large, then it is important that it does not slide on the table, otherwise it will not be sharpening, but torment.
1. The stone must be heavy so as not to slip.
2. If the stone is light, then it should be laid on a non-slippery surface, preferably on a rubber pad.
3.Clamp the stone in a special holder that facilitates the work.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 3
SHARPENING ANGLE.
The sharpening angle is the most important characteristic of a knife, which determines the cutting properties of the tool and depends on two aspects: the material of the blade and its scope. Different sources give, in general, the same angle values ​​​​and the correspondence of these values ​​\u200b\u200bto a specific operation, for example, 10 ° -15 ° is the sharpening angle for razors and scalpels, 15 ° -25 ° is the angle for chef's, fillet knives, and 25 ° - 40° - sharpening angle for hunting and utility knives (tourist, camping). One thing needs to be clarified - by reducing the sharpening angle, the cutting properties of the blade increase, but the strength of the metal decreases, and at the same time, it is advisable to maintain a large sharpening angle at high steel characteristics, followed by using the knife mainly for heavy work (butchering carcasses, chopping bones, etc.). d.).
Explanations for the schematic drawing of the blade:
1.Cutting edge;
2. Supply;
3.Sharpening angle;
4. Descent;
5. Butt.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 4
SETTING THE ANGLE OF SHARPENING.

And here are the bikers from the movie On the Other Side of the Law in 1993. If you remember, there was a momentr there at 23-24 minutes, when the mechanic asks the police agent if he understands motors.
This is the same reaction that Dan Saxon has for you, when reading articles on sharpening, you reach the opus, set the angle to 15-20, etc. degrees. How? This is exactly what no one teaches.
There is a stone or, as we have identified for beginners, sandpaper. There is a knife, but how to sharpen if you don’t know how to take a knife, or how to maintain an angle, or what movements to make. So let's start with these ESSENTIAL BASICS that many people miss.
METHOD ONE
Use a template to hold the corner automatically. Especially if there is no corner, but there is an ovl made on a glass board by a wife, mother, mother-in-law, etc. There was a post about this simple sharpener earlier. Support under a half angle of sharpening. How to sharpen is shown in the video. You can use any board with sandpaper attached, since we took it to save it. Put it at the right angle. In order not to stagger, as you like and conveniently fasten. Protractor to help you. Or cut coasters from unnecessary segments at the desired angles.
If you are a beginner, then sharpen as if on a belt with the paste on yourself. You can also sharpen on grain to practice pressure. Never press too hard to cut through the paper. If you cut, then you are doing it wrong: you press hard or you do not maintain the angle properly.

The attached post describes how to work with such a sharpener. At least to make a primary wedge. http://vk.com/zatochka.nozhej? w=wall-100724972_406/all

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 5

Setting the sharpening angle by improvised methods.

We all studied at school and almost certainly everyone forgot toigonometry. Sines and cosines. Previously, they never came in handy for us, but now they will help. We know the width of the knife. Not? Hmm, take a ruler and measure. We put the knife on the stone at any angle. By eye or with the same ruler we measure the height from the middle of the butt of the knife to the stone. We divide this height by the width of the blade and get the sine of the angle between the blade and the stone. Or the sine of half the sharpening angle or the existing sharpening angle or the angle to which you want to sharpen the knife. Everything is simple.

Using the laws of trigonometry, you can get a table to determine the sharpening angle depending on the width of the blade. That is, if you want to get a 20 degree angle, you must divide the width of the blade by 3 and raise the butt of the knife above the sharpening stone by this amount.

Sharpening angle per side.
Divide the blade width by: 20° - L/3
15° - L/4
12° - L/5
10°-L/6
8 - L/°7
5° - L/11

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 6.

GRIP KNIFE. MOVEMENTS PARALLEL TO THE CHEST.

The video tells the main points on how to hold the knife without strong tension in order to withstand a strong angle for a long time. An example of moving a knife in the "milovidovsky" way, because Milovidov sharpened it in his video about sharpening.

How to raise the knife if the straight section ends and the recursive or convex part of the edge begins. Why can't you push, etc.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 7.

GRIP KNIFE. MOVEMENTS WITH THE KNIFE FROM THE CHEST.

Continuation of the previous part. It tells how to properly hold the knife in order to maintain the sharpening angle when moving away from you and towards you. Why is it desirable to sharpen by turning the knife at an angle to the stone. What does it give when sharpening on thin stones. Safety engineering. We always keep our fingers on the stone.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 8
KNIFE WITH SINGLE SHARPENING. CHISEL TYPE.

Consider the now popular special case of the blade.

Many people think that since a knife has a one-sided sharpening, then it must be sharpened on one side. And the burr probably falls off by itself or does not form? This is not true. A burr always forms. And you should always clean it up. How to do this on a chisel knife and what nuances to take into account, we look in the video.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 9.
GRAIN TRANSITION CONTROL. FINISH STONES.

We sharpen, we sharpen, but until when? If we constantly change the side of sharpening, then if the knife starts to cut, we have machined it. This is on a rough stone or sandpaper to form a wedge. But such sharpening with rudeness and aggressiveness is very unstable. Which abrasive to use next. This is where the rule of two comes in handy. Each next stone in grain size should be at least 2 times smaller than the previous one. That is, if they sharpened at 50-60 microns, then the next 25-30 microns. Or between them if we want to get a cleaner surface. 40 for example. And so we go further.
But we switch to a new grit only when we polished the edge at the limit of the current abrasive. And this is determined either visually, which is difficult without a microscope, since you can see with your eyes or with a magnifying glass the risk from an abrasive of 14 microns ... Goodbye vision.
This is where the burr helps. The steel is ductile and the tip of the edge bends under load. Like blunting an edge. But here he will help us. If we sharpen on one side, then when the abrasive reaches the edge of the edge, it will certainly begin to bend to the other side, regardless of whether you are sharpening on the grain or away from the grain. Of course, if this is not ceramics and some other types of steels, which the comrade correctly mentioned below. In those cases, already flair and experience will help. So, if you sharpened on one side and on the other side a burr-bend formed along the entire length of the edge, then you machined this side of the edge. Flip the knife over and cut through the other side. Has a burr formed? We remove it by turning the knife by changing sides with each movement on the abrasive on which it was sharpened.
The burr was removed from both sides - we move on to the next abrasive, according to the principle written above. And so we sharpen to the limit, which is sufficient for a beginner. And here it is important NOT TO PRESSURE. The harder you push, the faster the burr will form under pressure, but this will not be an indication that you have removed the risks from the previous stone.
Sufficient for a good cut is a finish of 7-10 microns. Or 5. this is 1000-3000 grit according to various Japanese standards, which is quite enough for most people for their tasks. Most steels cut and shave perfectly on this. Often this is the sharpening limit for some steels due to their structure. For example, there is no point in sharpening quick cutters above 2000-3000. They start to lather.
Here, at the finish grit indicated above, we grind a knife according to our scheme. And then we start turning it with minimal pressure, changing sides as we go through, to reduce burr formation. Steels have different ductility, and therefore soft steels are more difficult to sharpen - the burr just walks wildly. We have already turned it to a cut that will satisfy us, and we move on to the skin. CLEAN, without applied abrasive.
We sharpen on the skin in the direction of the butt, from the grain, so as not to cut. Leather due to the structure is slightly abrasive. That is, it can catch the thinnest burr and either break it off, forming a jagged edge, or straighten it. We hold the knife at an angle to the belt strictly 90 degrees. Not 30-45, as with the main sharpening, but strictly even. IT IS IMPORTANT.
We correct on the skin, changing sides, checking the cut as many times as you think is sufficient. Here the recipe like 10 times per side will not help. They became different. And here the main criterion of control is the RESULTS RECEIVED. That's all.

Again.
1. We prepare the workplace.
2. We set the sharpening angle in the indicated ways.
3. We sharpen the knife according to the scheme, changing the grit.
4. We finally remove the burr.

Everything is really simple, only now you know how. The hardest part is getting the starting point. An angled edge that you can then simply rest your knife on. When there is an angle further sharpening becomes easier.

ALL SUCCESS.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 10.
An example of sharpening on a pocket bar. Field option. You won’t take a machine with a bunch of stones on a hike. And to master the correction on such a bar of a previously well-sharpened knife is not so difficult. Yes, and useful away from civilization and especially on the hunt. The carcass is getting cold, and the knife is hooked on the dirty skin. Do not butcher a carcass with a DULL KNIFE. it will piss anyone off.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 11

Preparation of abrasive stones for work.

LEVELING ABRASIVE STONES.

Abrasive stones, artificial or natural, must be leveled and cleaned of clogging, if any, before work. Without leveling the plane of the stone, we will not be able to properly control the angle between the supply and the surface of the stone, this will lead to a violation of the angle, blockage of the edge. Imagine that you have worked on an unleveled stone. You have very little chance to control the work on the edge, the sharpening angle varies depending on which part of the stone the supply is located on.
First you need to check the plane of the working surface of the stone. This can be done, for example, with a metal ruler (but not very flexible), placing it with an edge on a stone at opposite angles and placing a light source behind the ruler.
If, looking between the ruler and the stone, we see a gap, then the stone needs to be edited on the working surface.

Another abrasive is used for leveling. This is either an abrasive in a bundle (other stones of a larger grain size, sandpaper, abrasive meshes), or free grain applied with water to the lap.
Aligning stones is similar to sharpening. It is necessary not only to level the surface, but to give it the desired roughness. Therefore, we start with a coarse grain, remove the flatness of the bar, and then change the skins or powders, bring the surface to the desired degree of roughness. The finish grain is usually twice the grain size of the stone being leveled. It is necessary to keep the surface working, with cutting grains, and not overpolished. Although when working with a smaller grain, we may well begin to tear pieces out of the leveled surface.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS 12

SOZH, HOW HEALTHY - ALTHOUGH YOU DO NOT LOVE, BUT IS NECESSARY.

SOZH is an abbreviation for cutting fluids.
What are they needed for? And are they needed? Consider the components of coolant reduction.
Let's start with the fact that during prolonged work with a blade on a bar, both can heat up. Temperatures are small, but for a narrow section of the edge, this can be a very concentrated and fatal overheating. It is not for nothing that some of the best mechanized grinding machines are those that are low-speed and have water cooling, like Tormek, Shinko and their analogues.
Lubrication is clear. On the wetted stone, the blade goes with less effort, it is easier to control it. But pour coolant without fanaticism, otherwise you will get a skating rink, and not an abrasive surface.
And thirdly, the ground off abrasive must be removed somewhere. If the stone is dry, then its cutting pores will quickly become clogged, the stone will become greasy and stop working. Therefore, many stones are used only with coolant. Without it, they simply do not work. And the wetted surface clogs less, the spent metal lingers in it, the stone works better longer and faster. Even diamonds are not a sin to moisten, so as not to clean them later when they are clogged.
Many stones are called water stones for a reason. Depending on the ligament, they work at different speeds, but when dry, they will begin to crumble more easily. And moistened ones do not disappear before our eyes, but work. And the broken off abrasive in water continues to work, forming an abrasive suspension, which in some cases speeds up the process. Although the suspension is also a very thin matter. Somewhere it is desirable, but somewhere it is better to wash it off.
So the coolant makes it easier to work on the stone, eliminates local overheating of the edge during long-term monotonous work, improves the performance of stones, reduces clogging and wear of various types of stones.
The most common coolants are: water, soapy water, mineral oils. Natural, in some cases, if not followed, can become polarized and ruin the work surface. She will have to be redone. In addition, different types of coolant affect the result in different ways: on one stone, water can give a finish of 7000 grit, and a drop of oil rubbed over the surface gives an effect of 10,000 grit or even higher.
Here is such a useful thing called SOZH.

Professional (Jumapili) SHARPENING FOR BEGINNERS №13.
FINISHING OPERATIONS. WHY ARKANSAS IS SO VALUED.

Finishing operations are quite rightly called the super-task of the sharpener, when after sharpening, we give the edge DURABILITY. Personally, I separate the function of polishing and honing. When honing on Arkansas, a matte finish can form, while the edge will be very resistant. A mirror edge can also be obtained on a very small diamond, but such mega sharpness will not last long. Not practical. Yes, and ordinary pastes in this regard are inferior to IRONING.
Let's take a closer look at the concept of debugging. In the process of sharpening, by reducing the graininess of the abrasive, we reduce the risks left by it. Risks are essentially microcracks. THE MORE THEY ARE, THE MORE STRONGER THE METAL WILL CRASH AT THE MICRO LEVEL. Accordingly, it is desirable to remove them altogether. SMOOTH THE SURFACE.
A simple example from practice. I took simple kitchen knives (like German ones, which are full in all stores) from not the hardest steel. Sharpened at one angle, but one finished on 2000 grit sandpaper, and the second on fine diamond paste at 0.5 microns, which is about 30,000 grit. He cut sharpened on a diamond terribly, his hair was chipped on weight. Yes, only after cutting on the board, the one brought on the skin still cut, and the edge finished on the diamond shone along the entire length. Diamond grains have sharp edges, and the risks are deep. They cut not only matrices, but also carbides. And the edge is in the mirror. So a mirror, alas, is not an indicator of quality.

Why do people love Arkansas? High degree of uniformity of grains adjacent to one another. You can evenly smooth the edge. The stone is hard, not worked out, which is good for the finish. Works faster than many other natural stones. Abrasive grains are more rounded. They not only cut metal, but also push through it. Steel is very ductile at the micro level.
Therefore, Arkansas, faster than many other finishers, allows you to get both sharp and cutting, as well as EDGES WITH A HARDENED LAYER. That is, a slur.

What is a clasp? This is the reason for dancing with tambourines on different stones and a topic worthy of a separate post.

Tags: How to sharpen knives on an electric sharpener video

Perhaps everything is too simple, but for budget knives that's it.

how to sharpen on a sharpener correctly | Topic Author: Ivan

Zoya   If you mean sharpening on a Roman bar or on an electric knife sharpener, then it's easier to show than to tell... Okay, I'll try. Take the knife more tightly in your hand. If you have a bar, you will have to hold it with your other hand when sharpening. Then sharply draw one side of the blade along the bar, then the other, turning the knife ALONG the blade towards you, holding the blade at a slight angle to the bar. If you have an electric sharpener, then run the entire blade of the knife alternately Vadim along the side surface of the emery stone, holding the blade again at a slight angle to the stone.
Check sharpening periodically: if you turn the knife with the very edge of the blade towards you and look at it in the light, then it should not have light stripes. If they are, keep sharpening.

Vladislav   You mean sharpening knives?
You need a suitable abrasive and the sharpening angles are not very small - they quickly become dull.
The scissors have a 35 degree sharpening angle.

Almost any knife can be made sharp for a long time if you sharpen it in the right way and choose the right sharpener. Today we will tell you how and with what you need to sharpen knives in order to achieve the desired effect.

This can be done using different tools:

• grindstone;
• grinding set;
• power plant;
• mechanical machine;
• musata and others.

Choice of sharpener

Grindstone

This is another name for the usual whetstone. Surely everyone had to hold it in their hands. With skillful handling, he will quickly return the blade to its original sharpness. The main characteristic of the tool is granularity, in other words, the number of abrasive grains per 1m3.

Advice

For a good sharpening of a knife, you need to have two bars: a more “rare” one will go for sharpening, a “thick” one for grinding the blade.

Grinder (electric)

Perfectly sharpens knives for various purposes: for the kitchen, for tourism, for hunting, etc. Due to a special mechanism, the tool itself determines the desired sharpening angle. Often it is used for screwdrivers and scissors.

Important!!!

An electric sharpener is able to give the blade a wonderful sharpness that will last for long goals. It will give new life to even a very dull blade.

Grinding machine (mechanical)

This device is much easier to use than a grindstone. The blade is fixed in a special mount, which will allow maintaining a stable sharpening angle during the turning process.

Important!!!

The quality of sharpening is most affected by the angle of the knife, the speed of work - the strength and dexterity of your hands.

Sharpening set

The sharpening technology with a sharpening set does not have something difficult for the master. The system is designed specifically, the sharpening angle is controlled, the blade as a result becomes sharp, like a razor. The set consists of several separate compartments, in each of which the knife is attached at a specific angle.

Important!!!

The standard set includes whetstones with multi-colored handles (a separate color indicates a certain graininess of the stone), guides, and oil.

Musat

This device carries out periodic editing of the cutting part of the knife. Thanks to him, it will be possible to control the sharpness of the edge without sharpening. Outwardly, the musat looks like a file.

Important!!!

Musat is appropriate only for regularly used knives. If necessary, he simply took a knife and updated its cutting part. In the case of a blunt knife, musat is of no use.

The process of correct sharpening with a bar

• First, dip the whetstone in soapy water and set it aside. 20 minutes will be enough. This is done with the aim that then the removed metal does not clog into the pores;
• after the time has elapsed, with smooth movements, begin to drive with a wet bar on both sides of the cutting edge;
• first work with a coarse-grained surface of the bar until the blade is covered with burrs, then smooth the surface with small “grains”;
• you need to sharpen in the direction “away from you”, apply medium force, the cutting edge should be directed forward;

How to sharpen a knife

Advice

Try to run the blade along the bar very carefully, without changing the angle throughout the process.

Correct sharpening angle

When sharpening a knife at home, you have to determine the sharpening angle yourself. Regular scissors will help with this. Take them in your hands and insert the tip of the blade between the two blades. Carefully, so that the blade does not come off, move the handles towards each other, while looking at the lamp. As soon as the gap disappears, you need to remove the knife and measure the angle formed with a protractor.

Important!!!

The sharpening angle depends on several factors: the quality and hardness of the blade, the purpose of the knife.

• 10-17% - as a result of such sharpening, a very sharp and delicate edge is obtained. As a rule, such a sharpening angle is characteristic of razors and scalpels;
• 20-25% is most suitable for kitchen knives, making it the most common. A strong and well-cutting edge does its job well;

Sharpening a knife to razor sharpness (under a microscope)

• 25-30% - this is how knives are sharpened for extreme conditions of use, such knives should work in good conscience for a long time without “freelance” sharpening. These are hunting and tourist knives;
• 30-40% - for knives that cut cardboard, hoses, carpets, for other cutting and heavy work.

About the knife sharpening angle

Important!!!

Grinding the knife helps to remove the burrs formed as a result of sharpening with a coarse-grained bar. Subsequent exposure to fine grain due to circular movements with a bar will prevent the knife from becoming dull quickly.

Conclusion:

To return the knife to the desired sharpness, you need to periodically sharpen it. To do this, there are different methods and different tools that we talked about today. Now you know how to carry out this "master's" business at home. Good luck and only sharp knives in your house!

How to sharpen a knife on a stone. Beginner's Guide

How to easily and simply sharpen a knife on sandpaper

Sharp knives must be used for cooking. Of course, it is easier to turn to a specialist who can sharpen the knife correctly quickly and for little money, but you can do it yourself.

It is necessary to sharpen the knife according to certain rules, otherwise you can ruin the blade.

Correct knife sharpening angle

When sharpening kitchen knives, it is important that the objects are in a certain position in relation to the work surface. To do this, you need to choose the correct sharpening angle.

This parameter depends on many factors, for example, the type and strength of the metal from which the blade is made, as well as the purpose for which this tool is used. So, the degree of sharpening for different types of knives:

• scalpel and razor blade - from 10 to 15 degrees;
• vegetable, meat and fish knives - from 15 to 20 degrees;
• other cooking appliances - from 20 to 25 degrees;
• hunting blades - 25-30 degrees.

It is important to choose the right sharpening angle, this is necessary to achieve the desired sharpness of the kitchen appliance.

What grit is needed for sharpening knives

When sharpening blades, special stones are used. Their surface is an abrasive consisting of grains of different sizes. The grain size of the stone depends on this indicator. Sharpening devices are divided into the following groups:

• the most coarse-grained (especially coarse material);
• ordinary coarse-grained;
• medium-grained;
• fine-grained (delicate abrasive);
• micro-grained (material of increased fineness).

How to sharpen a knife correctly? A good master knows that using only one type of stone is inefficient. According to the rules, sharpening is performed alternately, moving from coarse-grained and coarse to delicate, thin stones.

How to sharpen knives on a grinder

Using a machine is considered an effective way of sharpening, however, the mechanism is bulky, and for this reason not every home has it. But if you have the opportunity to use it to sharpen blunt kitchen appliances, you should know some of the subtleties of this work:

• sharpening on the machine is carried out at high temperatures, so it is necessary to set the minimum number of revolutions so as not to spoil the blade;
• the blade must be pressed firmly against the grinding surface, and the movements during sharpening must be smooth;
• when the sharpness of the cutting surface is achieved, it is important to keep the sharpened part at an angle of 25–30 degrees with respect to the grinding wheel.

Keep in mind that you will need a lot of time to work. In addition, you should not take on sharpening on the machine for those who do not have sufficient experience in this matter.

How to sharpen knives with emery

If you have some experience and are aware of how emery works, sharpening knives will not be difficult for you. So, when sharpening blades on emery, follow these rules:

• when applying the blade to the abrasive, do not apply great mechanical effort;
• the trajectory of rotation of the abrasive should be in the direction from the butt to the edge;
• the knife on the emery is moved across the circle, moving smoothly from the handle of the device to the tip of the blade;
• when sharpening on both sides, you cannot change the angle of fixation of the blade, you just need to rearrange it to the other side;
• at the end of the work, edit the knife with a bar, musat or sandpaper.

Of course, real craftsmen prefer manual sharpening, which allows you to achieve the maximum effect. But if it's not about giving the blade the sharpness of a scalpel, but just making it fairly sharp, using emery will achieve decent results.

How to sharpen kitchen knives with a sharpener

Today you can buy special devices to sharpen knives - these are sharpeners for blades. These devices are mechanical and electrical. If you are not very experienced or have not tried sharpening knives yourself, it is better to use the electric option.

Such a sharpener independently chooses the angle of sharpening, and it is used to sharpen any kind of household blades. The work is done like this:

• Set the desired mode.
• Place the blade in a special hole.
• Press a little to create a tight contact between the blade and the grinding surface.

Once you've completed these steps, you no longer have to worry about ruining your knife. The sharpener will do the job on its own, and you will get a wonderfully sharpened blade. This is the best way to achieve the desired sharpness of the kitchen appliance at home.

How to use a sharpener for knives with round discs

There are various tools for sharpening knives, including sharpeners with round discs. The difference is that the grinding material in this case is a special rotating roller that grinds the cutting surface at an angle of 45 degrees.

The main advantage of such devices is that after sharpening there is no burr on the blade, and the work is simple. In addition, tools sharpened on roller sharpeners stay sharp much longer than when using V-shaped tools.

Most often, such sharpeners are adapted not only for knives, but also for scissors.

• Therefore, first make sure that you have chosen a cavity for sharpening the knife.
• Take the sharpener in your left hand and the knife in your right.
• Place the blade of the knife in the area of ​​the handle between the disks and force it to the tip.
• Repeat the same a few times.
• Be careful not to cut yourself.

How to sharpen Damascus steel knives

Damascus steel knives have been popular at all times, they are considered the most durable, and their sharpness can hardly be compared with anything. But even this material tends to become dull.

It is important to know that no electric sharpeners can be used here, only manual processing is needed. When sharpening a knife made of Damascus steel, you must adhere to the following principles:

• First determine the strength of the metal. This can be done by paying attention to the angle of sharpening, the stronger the material, the sharper it will be.
• Use fine-grained abrasives, gradually moving to micro-coatings.
• Sharpen the blade only along the cutting surface.
• If there are notches, it is necessary to grind the edge along the entire length.
• If it is necessary to polish the slopes, this must be done before the cutting edge is sharpened. If you process an already sharpened blade, the tip may simply round off.

If you are unsure that you will do everything right, it is better not to take risks and contact a specialist.

Is it possible to sharpen a knife without a stone

It happens that the knife needs urgent sharpening, but there are no suitable tools. But do not be upset, you can solve the problem in the following ways:

• sharpen a dull knife on the blade of another cutting device;
• sharpen on the raw edges of the bottom of a plate or mug;
• sand the blade with sandpaper, treating only one side;
• take any stone that you find on the street and sharpen it in the same way as you do with a whetstone.

This will allow you to briefly sharpen a dull device, but such methods cannot be called full-fledged sharpening. Remember that these measures are best saved as a last resort and not used all the time, otherwise the blades will quickly become worthless.

How to sharpen a knife on a knife

What to do if the blade is dull, and there was neither a bar nor an electric sharpener at hand? Sharpen your knife! Perform this procedure like this:

• attach the cutting surface of a dull blade to the back of another knife;
• take the tools so as to sharpen “away from you”, that is, the cutting edges should be directed to the sides;
• perform 10-15 vigorous movements, swiping one blade against the other.

This will allow you to briefly “revive” a dull knife, however, such a procedure is not a full-fledged sharpening.

How to sharpen a knife to razor sharpness

Almost any blade can be given a razor sharp edge. To achieve this, use one of the following methods:

• Treat the surface with GOI paste and a piece of genuine leather, after removing the notches with a fine-grained stone. Remember that you need to finish finishing, moving from the handle to the tip, without changing direction, and keep the blade at an angle.
• Grind the edge until the notches are fine, and then work the other side of the blade in the same way. This will add spice, but not for long.
• use ceramics, for example, turn the plate upside down and sharpen the device on the unfinished areas on the bottom that are not covered with glaze.

When working, be careful not to get cut or damage the blade.

How to sharpen a serrated knife

If your kitchen has serrated knives, then you need to know that these devices cannot be sharpened with ordinary sharpeners. To make this variant of the cutting surface sharp, you need to do the following:

• Prepare a special tool for serrated blades, namely a conical sharpening rod, preferably made of ceramic.
• Determine the side on which the beveled teeth are located, and sharpen this part of the blade.
• Set the sharpener at an angle to the beveled part of the blade.
• Sharpen each depression with several movements, moving the blade in the direction “away from you”.
• Remove the formed burrs with sandpaper or the same rod, but do not press on the surface, but act gently.
• Sharpen the smooth side of the blade with a suitable tool.

Remember that you can not use a rod with which you edit the serrated surfaces on the side of the blade where they are missing, otherwise you will ruin the knife.

Not really

It is very important to choose the right hunting knife. It is necessary to take into account many factors: length, width, shape, material of the handle and blade, sharpening angle. Much depends on the purpose of the knife.

Types of hunting knives

With all the variety of characteristics of the proposed hunting knives, they can be divided into two groups:

1. General use, which is used to finish off prey. Their blades are even, the handle is necessarily equipped with a limiter.
2. Special purpose (skinning, cutting meat from a bone, butchering an animal or bird carcass).

They are also divided according to the type of blades and sharpening of the upper edge. It is straight and rounded. Handmade hunting knives are especially original in their execution.

Choosing a hunting knife

Currently, a large selection of hunting knives from manufacturers from different countries is offered. Russian manufacturers are also not inferior in quality and variety of the offered specimens. Their design is quite simple: handle and blade. The blade has a cutting part, which is called the blade and is subject to periodic sharpening. To comply with safety regulations and ensure safety, a case made of durable and soft material (usually made of thick genuine leather with a wooden or plastic insert) is also very important. It must have a safety strap to prevent the weapon from falling out of its scabbard.

When choosing a hunting knife, you must be guided by the main characteristics:

1. The shape of the knife should correspond to the purpose of its use (the blade can be straight or curved).
2. Sharpening hunting knives depends on their purpose.
3. The handle should be comfortable when cutting the carcass. It can be located as a continuation of the blade, and at an angle to it. It is made from various materials: wood, metal, birch bark, ceramics, plastic. To prevent slipping out of the hands, it must have a limiter.
4. Method of attaching the handle to the blade. A handle attached with a nut is much stronger than with glue.
5. Blade material for hunting knives The hardness of steel depends on the carbon content. The most valuable brands are Damascus and damask. For hunting knives, 50 to 60 HRC (Rockwell) is considered optimal. The steel must be anti-corrosive.
6. Blade length and width. The optimal length is considered to be 12-13, width is 3-3.5 cm.

Ways to sharpen knives

Despite the hardness of the steel from which the knife is made, after a certain time its sharpness decreases. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically restore this function. Sharpening hunting knives can be done in various ways using:

• whetstone;
• musata;
• a set of tools;
• special pocket sharpeners;
• (mechanical, electrical);

It should be remembered: the smaller the sharpening angle of a hunting knife, the more delicate work it is intended for. For hunting knives, it is 15-30 degrees. For example, for cutting and boning work - 30, universal - 20, when skinning and separating meat from bone - 15 degrees.

As a rule, grinding machines are used at manufacturing plants and in special points for sharpening tools. But very often hunters do it on their own, using the other devices listed above for sharpening hunting and

Sharpening a knife with a bar (stone)

Consider how to properly sharpen a hunting knife with a bar at home. When sharpening a knife in this way, it is necessary to choose a flat wide bar with a length of at least 25 cm with a non-rough structure. In this case, you must follow the sequence of actions:

1. The bar must be fixed on a flat and fixed surface.
2. Lubricate with oil (vegetable, technical) or soapy water so that the metal chips do not stick to the bar, wait a few minutes.
3. With smooth movements, start sharpening with a moistened bar, pulling a knife under pressure along it along the entire length of the blade. We perform this action on both sides in turn. In this case, it is necessary to observe the initial sharpening angle of the hunting knife.
4. The process must be repeated several times until a new edge appears on top of the old edge on both sides.
5. Then the bar is changed to a fine-grained stone and polished without pressure, with light sliding movements.

For more convenient fixing of the grindstone, you can make a frame in the form of a right angle and fix the bar in it in an inclined position. You can use a special device for fixing emery with an adjustable slope.

To control the quality of sharpening hunting knives, you can try to cut a newspaper sheet in a vertical position in one motion. The sharpening angle can be checked in the simplest way using ordinary scissors. It is necessary to take them in hand, insert the blade between them, gradually squeezing the blade of the knife. At the same time, for better visibility, direct them to a bright light (lamp) to make sure that the compression is tight. Then carefully remove the blade and measure the angle between the blades of the scissors with a protractor.

Sharpening a knife with musat

Musat is a file with a round or cut off on both sides section, which has a handle. For its manufacture, very hard steel or diamond-coated ceramics are used. Musat is usually only corrected by not too dull blades. In this case, the cutting edge is not damaged even with repeated use. If the knife has completely lost its cutting properties, then you cannot sharpen it in this way.

The process is carried out as follows:

• one hand holds the musat in a vertical position (on a non-slip surface);
• in the other hand we take the blade at an angle of 15-20 degrees, stretch it from top to bottom (away from ourselves and towards ourselves) along the entire length of the blade (first from one side, then from the other side). Such repetitions must be done from 4 to 6. When using ceramic or diamond musat, one time is enough.

Sharpening a knife with special kits and pocket sharpeners

The knife sharpening kit includes several stones with multi-colored handles, special guides and oil. The sharpening technology with these devices is simple and does not require special skills. Each compartment has its own fixing angle. The color of the handles distinguishes the graininess of whetstones. When using this method, the sharpening of the blade is perfect.

Pocket sharpeners, available in specialized stores, are small stones of various shapes (round, square, oval) that fit in the palm of your hand. As a rule, they are made from quality materials. They are located in special recesses made in a plastic case at a certain angle. Such sharpeners are convenient to take with you for hunting or fishing, as they are compact and easy to use.

The dependence of the sharpening method on the steel grade

Not all sharpening methods are equally suitable for different grades of steel. So, for example, very popular Damascus steel knives cannot be sharpened on electric machines, as it has a heterogeneous structure. It consists of alternating soft and hard layers, so the blade must be sharpened with extreme care, otherwise the edge of the blade will become ribbed and will crumble in the future. Knives made of such steel should be sharpened by hand, gradually changing the grain size of the stones in the direction of decreasing.

Damascus steel is characterized by increased hardness. Knives from it need to be sharpened for a long time. In this case, electrical and mechanical machines are often used. It is necessary to start with coarse-grained stones moistened with water, gradually approaching fine-grained ones.

It should be noted that with the automated method of sharpening, it is not possible to achieve sharpness and accuracy, which is ensured by manual work. The main advantage is the speed of this process.

Handmade hunting knives require a special approach when sharpening the blade, as they can be made from non-standard steel grades. Therefore, it is recommended to sharpen them by hand.

We conclude: the correct sharpening of hunting knives is a very important process for maintaining the appearance and durability. This hunting prop should be used only for its intended purpose and should not be forgotten to be kept clean, periodically lubricated with oil (both blades and wooden handles) to prevent loss of luster and drying out.