Country houses sheathed with siding. How is the facade of a country house finished with siding? Sheathe the cottage with siding: a few words about the arrangement of such facades

In just a few years, siding has become one of the most popular types of exterior decoration of buildings in Russia. This is due to the fact that such a design serves for quite a long time, without changing its qualities at all. And the cost of the material pleases, as it is available to almost all consumers and organizations planning to save money. But in order for the facade and internal walls to retain their appearance and protective functions for 20 years or more, a professional work for many companies varies.

What this is connected with, you should understand, because the durability of the cladding and the integrity of the main walls of the house will depend on the installation.

Why should you trust it to professionals? From this article, the reader will learn all the reasons why it is necessary to involve specialists with experience, what will it give and how will the customer insure himself? But first you need to understand why the external design of the structure is generally required. Of course, if the foundation of the house is made of brick, there will be no need to protect it from weather conditions, provided that the masonry is done carefully.

Installation calculation

But if the frame is assembled from foam blocks, timber, or something less attractive, sooner or later there will be a need for a stylistic design of the outer walls. This will give the facade not only individuality, but also help to keep the heat inside the room. This is especially true of wood, such a vulnerable and capricious natural material.

Installation and installation of siding - a list of works when finishing a house with siding

Facade works Unit Price
Installing vinyl siding on walls 250 rubles
Installing vinyl siding on a roof 300 rubles
Fiber cement siding installation 680 rubles
60 rubles
Installation of wooden lathing on wood m2 100 rubles
Installation of wooden crates on brick or concrete m2 200 rubles
Installation of metal lathing on wood m2 380 rubles
Installation of a metal crate on brick or concrete m2 450 rubles
Installation of insulation 50 mm m2 90 rubles
Installation of insulation 100 mm m2 170 rubles

Main advantages

The top layer of the walls of buildings is constantly exposed to adverse environmental factors. These are rain, hail, temperature fluctuations in the spring and autumn months, direct sunlight and wind. Stone and concrete are less susceptible to decay, retaining their original appearance longer, but wooden houses will need regular maintenance. Treat the outer walls with impregnation and monitor the integrity of the wood. What will change if outside appears siding trim? Price in Moscow and the area for many companies is comparable to the price of materials, but not for Buy Siding. By protecting the vulnerable frame of the main walls of the house, you can extend the life of the entire building by additionally insulating it. Savings on heating bills will be noticeable immediately.

Cost of siding installation

Facade works Unit Change Price
Removal of vinyl siding and accessories m2 108 rub.
Dismantling of the protruding brick trim of the building running meters 400 rub.
Dismantling of the protruding trim of the building running meters 180 rub.
Dismantling of hydro-vapor barrier m2 50 rub.
Dismantling the crate m2 50 rub.
Dismantling of ebbs running meters 36 rub.
Dismantling the insulation m2 70 rub.
Slope Correction running meters 180 rub.
Installation of vinyl siding m2 250 rub.
Vinyl siding installation m2 300 rub.
Installation of vinyl panels m2 350 rub.
Installation of fiber cement panels m2 680 rub.
Installation of vinyl components running meters 150 rub.
Mounting met. accessories running meters 200 rub.
Installation of a drainage system (gutter pipe) running meters 330 rub.
Installation of a hydro-vapor barrier film m2 60 rub.
Installation of a wooden crate (Leveling) m2 150 rub.
Installation of wooden lathing on wood (1st row) m2 100 rub.
Installation of wooden lathing on wood (2nd row) m2 100 rub.
Installation of wooden lathing on brick / concrete m2 200 rub.
Mounting met. railings for wood m2 380 rub.
Mounting met. brick/concrete decking m2 450 rub.
Installation of metal components running meters 200 rub.
Installation of insulation 50 mm m2 90 rub.
Installation of insulation 100 mm m2 170 rub.
Fire-bio processing of timber running meters 14 rub.
Fire-bio wood surface treatment m2 80 rub.
Fire-bio processing boards running meters 19 rub.
Hem Repair (Level 1) running meters 250 rub.
Hem Repair (Level 2) running meters 450 rub.
Hem Repair (Level 3) running meters 588 rub.
Installation of metal tides running meters 100 rub.
Installation of ventilation grilles PCS. 140 rub.
Installing "MID-AMERIСA" elements PCS. 1000 rub.

If you do the installation with panels yourself, no one will give guarantees for the work performed, and it may be difficult to replace some elements if they are suddenly damaged during installation. It will be necessary to spend time on making the crate, correctly connect all the elements so that all joints are securely closed from moisture penetration. Yes, and the forests will not be able to get and collect everything. You will also need a special tool that you will have to buy or rent. It will take much more time to install than this work will be done by experienced and professional craftsmen.

Due to the variety of colors and textures, the customer can easily choose exactly the design option that he likes. It is best to order immediately after purchase and siding installation. Price work is available to everyone. But it should be remembered that if a decision is made to do everything with one's own hands, or to hire workers from third-party organizations, the result may not please, and the life of the material will be significantly reduced. If you want to get a beautiful and durable facade, and even in a short time (the company's specialists do everything in 5-7 days), contact the professionals.

Which siding to choose for a country house - this question arises for many, as siding is gaining more and more popularity in our time. This material is especially well used for finishing the facades of mansions, country houses and homesteads. Now the construction market offers a huge number of different types of siding.

If you still decide to sheathe your house with siding, then you definitely need to consult with experts in choosing this material for your home. Below I will try to describe in more detail the main types of siding. This will give you the opportunity to navigate well in a large selection of offered materials for facade cladding.

So, the types and materials for the manufacture of siding panels.

Vinyl siding

These panels are made of polyvinyl chloride, the thickness of which is 1 mm. They are produced by molding, and when assembled, overlapping wood sheathing is imitated. In the production of this material, there is no single international standard for dimensions. Therefore, each manufacturer has its own dimensions. But basically it is 3-4 meters long, and the width is 20-25 cm.

Types of shaping vinyl siding

Monoextrusion. When the panel is made from a homogeneous composition. The finished look has the same shade on both sides.
Co-extrusion. In this case, the panel has several layers, each layer has its own composition of components.
Vinyl siding has many, more than 700 color shades. Exposure to sunlight practically does not affect the color gamut. This is due to the fact that the composition of the panel includes titanium dioxide.

Main advantages

Great resistance to environmental influences - moderately alkaline and acidic precipitation does not cause harm, and the sun does not warp it.

Hydrophobicity. Does not get wet, repels moisture, does not rot
Resistant to sharp temperature contrasts
Made from environmentally friendly material
Can be applied to any wall
Ease of installation and maintenance
Designed for 50 years of service.

aluminum siding

These pure aluminum panels are available with a resin coating that depicts the structure of the tree, and painted. With a polymer coating, siding is more expensive, but better protected from external factors, has many colors and a relief surface.

Main advantages

Fairly light
Resistant to corrosion
fire resistant
Durable (stronger than vinyl but weaker than steel)
durable
Installation is a little more complicated than other types of roofing, they are sheathed with complex architectural elements.
Aluminum siding is mainly used for facade cladding of trade pavilions, kiosks, cafes, residential and public buildings. Its main disadvantage is the softness of aluminum. When it is good to rest on such a panel, it will bend and will not restore its shape.

steel siding

The panels are made on the basis of galvanized steel, width 120-550 mm. They are light, long, have their own fastening locks. The coating can be either polymer or powder coated.

Now they began to produce universal panels, smooth and wide. They are mounted both vertically and horizontally.

Advantages

Corrosion resistance
Incombustibility
High UV resistance
Can be used in a wide temperature range (-50°С - +80°С)
Relatively well withstands mechanical stress
Installation is simple, convenient and secure
Does not react to exhaust gases, aggressive environment.
Panels are aesthetic and environmentally friendly
"Metal siding is highly durable"

The main disadvantage is the low durability of the coating. When a pebble hits such a panel, the polyester will be pierced to the base of the metal. Moisture will get in there and corrosion will begin. You need to constantly monitor in order to make small repairs in time: sand and then paint over with special repair paint.

Zinc siding

This material is not very popular. The panel has a thickness of 1 mm, width (20-30 cm), length (0.5-6 m). It belongs to expensive and heavy materials. They produce two colors - black, anthracite and gray, quartzite.

wood siding

Outwardly, this panel is almost impossible to distinguish from natural wood, and its structure resembles MDF. The composition includes wood-cellulose mixture, pressed at high temperature and pressure. The mixture contains additives that improve performance. The panels are produced with a width of 11.5 cm and 15.5 cm, a length of 5.5 m, and a thickness of 9 mm.

Siding is produced with a variety of colors, and can depict any type of wood.

cement siding

This siding is made by pressing cellulose fibers together with cement. With the help of modern technologies, smooth or patterned panels are produced.

Advantages

Moisture resistant
fire resistant
High strength
Good resistance to external aggressive factors
Protects walls from insects and decay
Works well with a saw.
Features of installing a siding system

All types of siding are mounted using almost the same technology. Fasteners are made along one edge of the panel. Horizontal panels have mounting holes on the top, while vertical panels have mounting holes on the side. Metal siding is similar in shape to vinyl siding. Therefore, there is not much difference in fastening. Well, the installation methods of wood and cement-fiber are completely the same.

So we examined the main materials from which modern siding is made, which is used in facade cladding. Now you can safely decide which material is best suited and which siding to choose for your country house.

Siding is a dry type of exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not exert a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple maintenance, excellent protective properties and a wide selection of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

  • or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
  • screwdriver and screwdriver
  • a hammer,
  • tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
  • a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

  • Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
  • Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, internal corners are also used at the points of its connection with the wall. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
  • To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
  • The required length of the starting bar is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
  • At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
  • The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
  • A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
  • If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
  • The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
  • For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing installation

The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use 60 * 40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected to anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden, aerated concrete walls, installation is mandatory, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying the top planks on the side ones.

When installing H-profiles vertically in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.

Panel installation

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.

What should be taken into account?

Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

The owners of country houses once think about how and with what to sheathe their building so that it is protected from external influences and at the same time looks quite attractive.

The construction market offers a large selection of building materials for decoration, but not everyone is suitable for a house that is old or built from lightweight building materials. Country siding is well suited for sheathing a small house and for excellent results.

It is important to understand that different types of the same finish may differ in certain characteristics. And this means that one option is suitable for a house with a long service life, and the other is better to choose for a newly built and reliable building. Let's deal with different types of siding:

  • Metal. Made from galvanized steel or aluminium. Facing has excellent strength properties, perfectly protects against mechanical, biological and atmospheric influences. But not every house can withstand the weight of such a sheathing. It is better to choose for houses made of brick or blocks.

  • Fiber cement panels. High-quality cement and cellulose fibers are used as raw materials. As a result, the siding is durable and reliable. But for the price, this option is more expensive, and also has a lot of weight and is hardly suitable for frame summer houses.

  • Wooden siding. This type of finish is made from natural wood with the addition of synthetic resins, which makes it more resistant to the external environment. But one must also take into account the fact that a tree, even protected by certain compositions, is an extremely impractical material. After a while, it loses its attractiveness, then you have to spend time and a day updating the facade.

  • Vinyl panels. This option is ideal as a siding for a country house. Finishing is easy and reliable and at the same time the price is quite affordable. True, you will have to ensure that you do not damage it with garden tools. But the lower sections of the house can be finished with plinth vinyl siding. Manufacturers have made it specially much stronger.

Benefits of vinyl siding

Such material has a number of advantages that distinguish it from other types of this finish.

  • Ease. Allows you to easily transport and move elements. In addition, it can be installed both on new buildings and on old ones.
  • Protective functions. Vinyl siding perfectly resists temperature fluctuations, a humid environment, and the effects of microorganisms.
  • Wide selection of colors and textures.
  • Affordable price.
  • Unpretentious care. Use plain water for cleaning. More serious dirt is removed with a sponge and detergent. But ordinary melt or rain water can easily cope with dust.
  • Long service life. Some manufacturers indicate a figure of about 50 years. But be careful when choosing colors. Often low-quality dyes are chosen to reduce the cost, and bright colors lose their attractiveness after the first sunny season. Therefore, it is better to choose pastel shades.

Finish options

Finishing a country house with siding can be done in several ways:

  1. Horizontal lining. Use horizontal panels.
  2. Vertical lining. It is carried out using vertical siding.
  3. Decoration with a basement view of the cladding of the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade.
  4. Various combinations. It all depends on the imagination and tastes of the owner. You can combine horizontal and vertical, basement with horizontal or vertical siding. You can also add other types of finishing materials (natural or, facade tiles, plaster).

How to do the installation yourself

In order to independently carry out the lining of a country house, you need to know, and strictly adhere to, a completely uncomplicated work plan.

  • Training. This stage includes the preparation of the foundation, the calculation and purchase of all necessary materials.
  • Frame construction.
  • Siding installation.

Preparatory stage

Let's start with the calculation of the necessary materials and their purchase. Typically, manufacturers produce panels with a length of 2.5 to 6 m and a width of 22–27 cm. Knowing the length and height of the walls of the building, you can calculate how many parts you need. It is necessary not to forget about additional elements (starting and finishing strip, corner elements, connecting strip, if necessary).

You need to buy with a margin of 10-15%. This amount will be enough to cover the damaged elements during installation or transportation. It is also advisable to buy everything from the same batch of the same manufacturer. The dimensions of the parts and even the shade may differ in different batches, and even more so among manufacturers.

After everything is bought, you need to start preparing the base:

  1. Remove all incoming parts - sewers, antennas, fasteners.
  2. Clean the surface of the old decorative coating.
  3. Remove stains and traces of fungi or insects.
  4. Treat the walls with a deep penetration primer. This stage should not be skipped, since the composition will help protect the base from moisture and fungus, which means it will help maintain a pleasant indoor climate.

Frame construction

Before you put the frame on which the siding panels will be attached, you can attach a heater. Additional thermal insulation will make the country house warmer in the cold season, in the hot season it will keep cool.

To fix the insulation material you need:

  • Lay the vapor barrier film. Joints must be sealed with tape.
  • Attach heater. You can use the one that you like the technical characteristics more.
  • Lay another layer of vapor barrier film. Protects the insulating material from evaporation from the interior, moisture and cold gusts of wind from the external environment.

Now let's move on to the frame. For horizontal siding, a vertical crate is installed, for vertical - a horizontal version. The distance between the elements should not exceed 50 cm.

Siding installation

There is a specific plan according to which this cladding is installed. Even a beginner can handle this task.

  1. Fixing the starting bar.
  2. Installation of corner elements.
  3. Fixing the first panel. The lower edge is placed in, the sides are installed in the corner pieces. On the upper side there are holes for fasteners, you need to put and fix a self-tapping screw or a nail in them. Do not over tighten fasteners. After installation, the part should be movable by 2-3 mm in both directions.
  4. Installation of all subsequent panels.
  5. Attaching the finish line.

The technology of how to sheathe a cottage with siding requires knowledge of some fairly simple rules and conditions, how to do it quickly and efficiently with your own hands and, of course, with the greatest benefit and lowest cost. Nevertheless, several factors must be taken into account, without which it will be extremely difficult to sheathe the cottage.

Sheathing with siding is great for finishing wooden cottages, as it does not exert a large load on the foundation and does not lead to deformation of the building.

First, you need to remember that siding is one of the dry types of exterior building finishes. This technology is suitable for many residential buildings, and not only residential, but also industrial, utility buildings. Most of all, siding is suitable for buildings made of materials such as foam concrete or sandwich panels. Since this technology of sheathing with siding does not exert a large load on the foundation, does not lead to deformation or collapse of the building, it can also be used for finishing wooden cottages.

The parameters of the cut of panels and soffits of siding.

The popularity of siding, as the most practical tool to use, lies in the fact that it is, firstly, cheap, and secondly, it is distinguished by its durability. The main property that siding has is stability. Under the influence of high and low temperatures, it does not crumble. Siding also enjoys a great advantage due to the fact that it has many shades and textures to suit your taste. So, you can give a new look to your dacha with your own hands. Further, taking into account all the properties and qualities that siding has, you can learn step by step how to sheathe a cottage correctly.

Quality materials to get the job done

For proper sheathing of a country house, you will need the following tools:

Tools for sheathing a country house with siding: a grinder, a screwdriver with a screwdriver, a hammer, a tape measure, metal scissors, a ladder-ladder.

  • grinder (it can be replaced by a saw with small teeth); screwdriver with a screwdriver;
  • a hammer;
  • tape measure (preferably laser, it will make the finishing process much easier);
  • metal scissors;
  • stepladder.

Manufacturers offer a whole set of panels and elements for use that will help you sheathe a summer house, even the most difficult configuration. The buyer must only indicate what is the area of ​​the walls of his dacha. In addition, you will need to specify the number of windows and the type of roof.

Now you can proceed to the very process of sheathing the siding of a country house.

Before you sheathe the house with siding, you need to do the preparatory work. Protruding parts that will undoubtedly interfere with the process will have to be dismantled: for example, doors, grilles, trim, etc. All cracks that exist in the walls, as well as around doors and windows, will need to be filled with cement mortar. Mounting foam is also great for this.

Scheme of the facade subsystem (lattices): 1 - wall, 2 - bracket, 3 - thermal insulating gasket, 4 - anchor dowel, 5 - L-shaped profile, 6 - insulation, 7 - film, 8 - BLOCK HOUSE panels, 9 - corner bracket , 10 - L-shaped profile, 11 - self-tapping press washer, 12 - rondol, 13 - bracket.

The next step is to clean the entire plane of the old house from dust and dirt. In addition, country houses that have not been repaired for a long time are often replete with chipped plaster, mold, and even rotten patches of wood. All this must be removed. The plane of wooden dachas is usually treated with antiseptics. Remember, you cannot mount panels on a bare wall! Therefore, if you set to work on your own, you will have to mount the so-called crate from a metal profile. Ask experts to help you if necessary.

Further, your cottage will need waterproofing and insulation. If you have wooden walls, then it is not necessary to install insulation, but you definitely cannot do without waterproofing. The best material for this is a special membrane that is protected from wind and moisture.

Drainage installation: instruction

Direct installation begins with the fact that you will need to install a drainage system on the base.

Drainage scheme for the basement.

Then you need to mount the corner profiles. They need to be well fixed with self-tapping screws. Special window trims are attached around the windows. It is only necessary to take into account that the lower edge should be 3-4 cm lower than the inner one. The finishing bar is mounted in the place where the roof begins and the area reserved for sheathing ends. Next, proceed to the installation of the panels: the first row should be fixed directly to the starting bar. The top panels are fixed with self-tapping screws, then everything goes according to the same principle: they are connected side by side and gradually rise to the roof or window.

So, we can sum up. In order for your cottage and its facade to take on a new life, you need to remember a few rules:

  1. It is not necessary to fasten the siding panels too rigidly. The shape of the mounting holes has an elongated shape, because the material from which the panels are made shrinks when cold, and expands when heated.
  2. Leave a ten-millimeter gap between the plank and the guides, otherwise the siding may bend when expanding.
  3. You can sheathe the cottage with siding at any time of the year. But, of course, you need to take into account the expansion and contraction of the material under different weather conditions.

So, if you wish and follow some strict and very important rules, you can easily give your dacha a new life.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands: step by step instructions for dummies

Siding is a modern, promising, cost-effective direction in the decoration of buildings of various types. The main mission of facing is protect the walls from the outside from the damaging effects natural factors, as well as to give them a special flavor and presentability.

Sheathing the facades of buildings with siding does not require large labor costs from the performers. The event can be performed using the simplest building tools and in relatively short time.

Varieties of material

Siding materials are: vinyl, metal, PVC, wood and cement.

If desired, the masters can successfully create an imitation other popular materials for home decoration. Depending on the main material, experts distinguish several varieties of siding.

Vinyl

In fact, these are PVC panels that can successfully imitate wood, stone or brick sheathing.

Advantages:

  • affordable price;
  • light weight structures;
  • vinyl cladding will last more than 50 years;
  • a huge variety of textures and colors;
  • absence of toxic substances;
  • resistance to deformation and cataclysms;
  • operating temperature: -50–+50 °C.

In order to avoid possible deformation of the material, the coefficient of expansion must be taken into account when installing the nodes.

Wooden

If it is assumed that wooden siding will be used for facing country houses, then it is additionally treated with special antiseptics under high pressure conditions.

Advantages:

  • high level of thermal insulation;
  • presentability;
  • environmental friendliness.

Sheathing a building with wood siding is an expensive undertaking. Wherein this material requires special attention and special care.

Metal

Such cladding is made of steel, aluminum or zinc. For finishing country houses with metal siding it is preferable to use aluminum, which can be painted under a tree.

Advantages:

  • strength;
  • durability;
  • lack of microflora;
  • resistance to sudden temperature changes.

Metal siding is subject to deformation and corrosion processes.

cement

The main production material is high-quality cement, to which cellulose is added. This type of lining able to qualitatively replace the decorative stone.

Advantages:

  • fire resistance;
  • reliability and durability;
  • resistance to moisture and ultraviolet;
  • ease of restoration;
  • no rotting and mold formation processes.

The disadvantage of cement siding is considered large weight of the source material, which complicates the installation work.

Read also the article about facade panels for exterior decoration of the house.

Which siding to choose?

If timber or a solid log was used as a building material, then it is best to use vinyl siding for sheathing the erected log house.

PVC panels reliably protect the building from adverse weather conditions.

They are quite light, so do not create additional load to the foundation. Plastic panels are easy to install and clean. Such cladding will significantly extend the life of a wooden house and give it a unique appearance. Sheathing an old wooden house will give it a fresh look.

Wooden siding is ideal for sheathing a frame house. This type of cladding looks really expensive and spectacular. sheathing installed very quickly. The panels can be installed both vertically and horizontally.

Excellent breathability and no toxic fumes- the main advantages of wood siding. For facing a frame house, experts recommend purchasing panels made of beech, spruce, pine or larch wood.

As for the brick building, when choosing a finishing material, the purpose of the building should be taken into account. If this is an industrial building, then it is best to finish with metal siding. It is better to sheathe a residential brick house with vinyl siding. He allows you to successfully simulate other expensive materials.

For finishing houses made of foam blocks and aerated concrete, you can successfully use vinyl, metal, as well as basement siding. Ease of installation as well excellent performance installed panels will help to ennoble the facade of the house, it will look beautiful and stylish.

A high-quality frame for siding, where insulation is necessarily present, can significantly reduce heat loss and improve the waterproofing of the building.

Features of quality siding:

  1. Same panel thickness. Such facing will not be deformed and will serve the owner of the building as long as possible.
  2. The presence of a uniform layer of paint. If the panel is painted unevenly, then most likely, low-grade raw materials were used in the production process. Such panels do not withstand mechanical loads, quickly lose their color and deform with temperature fluctuations.
  3. Surface structure. There are no chips, stains or cracks on high-quality panels. They shouldn't loosen up.
  4. Plastic. All parts of the skin are required to demonstrate flexibility and strength.
  5. Availability of certificates. When purchasing material for facing a house, feel free to ask for a quality certificate. The document must contain, certified by the seal, the conclusions of experts that confirm the fire resistance and hygiene of the product.

How to calculate the required amount?

A competent calculation of the amount of material required in order to sheathe a house or a summer house will allow you to predict the total cost of the event and the deadline for completing the work.

To organize the calculation process needs to be prepared in advance: tape measure, calculator, sheet of paper and pencil.

at first should draw up a blueprint Houses. This will allow you to calculate as accurately as possible the required amount of materials and additional elements. So let's get started.

  1. Divide the facade into separate segments, determine the real area of ​​​​each wall, and then the facade as a whole.
  2. From the resulting amount, subtract the area of ​​door and window openings.
  3. The actual metric characteristics of the ridge and roof will indicate the dimensions of the overhangs. They should be hemmed with spotlights.
  4. For proper installation of siding panels, it is necessary to determine the true number of platbands, window trims and other additional elements.

After completing all the calculations, you can independently determine the quantity of materials and approximate cost.

Since during the process of cutting and installing panels, a certain amount of material will become unusable, when calculating the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bsheathing, to its total value It is recommended to add another 15%. Thus. You will definitely not experience a shortage of material when facing a building.

To correctly calculate the right amount of siding for the house, the surface area that needs to be covered with cladding, must be divided into the area of ​​​​one panel. To the value obtained should be added, the required stock.

Additional elements:

  1. In order to determine the number of starting strips, the length of the gap sections should be added to the length of the perimeter of the building, and the resulting amount should be divided by the size of the profile.
  2. The number of external and internal corners depends on the configuration of the building.
  3. The number of window profiles is determined by the length of the perimeter of recessed window openings.
  4. The number of finishing strips must correspond to the number of starting profiles.
  5. The number of J-slats is determined by the length of the frontal joints.
  6. The number of architraves depends on the parameters of the facade segments that need cladding.

How much does 1 m2 cost?

The total cost of house siding determined by several factors, namely:

  • surface area to be covered;
  • the cost of the source material;
  • the need to install fastening structures;
  • the complexity of the work;
  • installation of thermal insulation.

On average, 1 square meter of siding will cost the owner of an architectural structure about 200 rubles. Wherein the cost of all other works is considered separately.

Do you know how to sheathe a wooden house outside? Read this article about choosing the best material.

Is it possible to clad a building in winter?

Naturally, it is best to sheathe a house with siding during the warm periods of the year. But, if this event has to be held in winter, then must be remembered several important points.

Since, when exposed to low temperatures, vinyl panels may crack, then this type of sheathing is not recommended to be mounted in winter.

As for metal siding, its panels should be installed with some clearance, because when warmed, the material will expand. Since there is a gap between the panels and the insulation, the owners have no reason to worry about the accumulation of condensate.

How to sheathe a house with siding yourself?

Since the technology for installing siding sheathing is quite simple, this type of work can be done independently.

When installing cement panels, it is necessary to pre-strengthen the foundation, this is due to their large weight.

Preparatory work

Walls and surfaces around the perimeter of the house must get rid of mold, dirt, fungus, dust and moss. Places where such phenomena have been identified should be treated with special antiseptics.

The next step should carefully inspect the walls of the building. If cracks or other damage to the surfaces are detected, they must be rubbed with a building emulsion.

The territory of the site must be removed, and then a small canopy should be erected on it to protect power sources and power tools from possible precipitation.

For work you will need:

  • cross saw;
  • pliers;
  • metal ruler;
  • roulette;
  • screwdriver;
  • a hammer;
  • level;
  • knife-cutter;
  • pliers;
  • awl;
  • protective glasses;
  • hacksaw for metal.

Lathing installation

To design siding held securely by the frame its creation must be approached as consciously as possible. If the project involves additional wall insulation, then waterproofing should be placed under the insulation ball, and if not, under the crate.

First you need to determine the material from which the crate will be made. If it is planned to install wooden or vinyl panels, then both a metal profile and a beam can serve as a frame.

Other types of siding require the installation of a metal crate. If timber was chosen as the frame material, then it must be thoroughly dried and treated with an antiseptic. After these procedures, you can begin to collect the crate.

First you need to mark the areas for installing fasteners. The first profiles should be installed in the corners. They are should be perfectly aligned. Use the building level to control.

Next, you can mount horizontal beams below and above the surface that you are sheathing. Once everything is ready, you can safely mount the remaining vertical elements over the entire surface plane.

The distance between the profiles should be about 30–50 cm. The crate is recommended to be fixed directly to the walls of the building with dowels, the holes for which are made with a perforator.

Wall insulation

In order to qualitatively insulate the walls of the building, it is recommended to lay a heater between the profiles of the lathing (foam plastic, basalt or mineral wool). The choice of insulation depends on climatic conditions in the area where the house is located.

If the winter temperature does not fall below -15 °C, then experts recommend using foam. More severe climatic conditions require the use of mineral wool as a heater.

Insulation should cover with waterproofing film. It is attached directly to the crate. To do this, use a construction stapler. A counter-lattice must be installed on top of the waterproofing layer. This will create a ventilation space between the insulation and the panels.

Finishing

Before installing panels, you must add additional items structures (external and internal components, finishing and starting film, J, H-panels, water pipe segments, window film).

First panel fixed on the starting film, after which, moving from the bottom up, the rest of the siding segments are mounted. The last panel must be fixed on the finishing film.

Do not overtighten the screws. Between the surface plane and the head of the fastening element, leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This will allow the material to expand without harming the siding structure.

So, cladding a building with siding is an ideal, publicly available way to ensure the presentability and durability of a building.

What mistakes can be made when installing siding? See in the video:

Do-it-yourself house siding

There are many materials for self-finishing facades. However, do-it-yourself sheathing of a house with siding stands out among them for its low cost and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl facade panels for such a cladding of their cottage, the installation technology of which we will consider in detail in this article.

Accessories and getting started

To properly sheathe a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of the complaints about self-stuffed PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-compliance with the banal rules for its installation.

There are several types of vinyl sheathing planks:

Initial - starting rail, the first lowest element;

The main panel is the basic segment of the house siding;

Finishing - the extreme upper strip;

Connecting (docking) - H-profile for splicing short panels;

Hinged - ebb, protecting the windows and the basement of the house from precipitation;

Near-window (wide J-profile) - trim for decorating slopes;

Corner (outer and inner) - for closing the ends of siding panels in corner joints;

Soffit - a ceiling panel for sewing cornices and gables of houses;

J-trim is a narrow universal J-profile.

The variety of plank shapes only simplifies self-plating. For each corner and ledge of the house there is a type-setting element, you just need to correctly calculate their required number.

Calculation of material for sheathing and the necessary tools

To calculate consumables, you need to calculate the area of ​​​​the facade sheathed with siding, and then divide it by the quadrature of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sizes of windows with doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a margin of 10% for fitting, so that everything can be finished without problems and restrictions.

To decorate a house with siding, you will need the following set of tools:

Level and plumb;

Scissors and hacksaw for metal.

If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the crate. It will not interfere with the siding of self-plating the house and the grinder. It will facilitate and speed up the cutting of panels.

Home insulation and waterproofing

Before proceeding with the sheathing of the house, it is necessary to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. Old paint and plaster will not be visible under the siding, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be fixed to it under the sheathing.

The insulation is placed between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the considered finishing material for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.

Do-it-yourself siding installation

To attach vinyl panels to the crate, you can take:

Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5–4 mm

Nails with a stem section of 3 mm and a head of 8 mm

Their consumption when finishing the house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the slats of 30 cm. Fasteners in a wooden lath or metal frame profile should be at least 20 mm. At the same time, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and PVC lining. If this is not done, then the vinyl sheathing of the house will warp and go in waves when the temperature outside changes.

Collection of crates for facing the house with siding

The crate is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the rails (profiles) of 30-40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl strips. But the transverse crossbars between them should not be, by definition. It is necessary to sheathe the house with siding with your own hands so that there is space under the panels for natural air circulation.

Additional load-bearing rails are installed around the openings and along the corners of the building to securely fasten the PVC cladding. They are also needed in places where lamps and drains are hung on the walls. It is required to securely fasten not only the facade panels for the exterior of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.

Installing the starting bar

The starting bar is fixed on the walls first. To do this, a rope is pulled around the house on carnations at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the mounted sheathing. Starting profiles are fastened along the perimeter of the building not end-to-end, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of their thermal expansion.

Installation of low tide and starting bar. Ebbs are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the tide bar.

When sheathing houses with siding, it is extremely important to correctly and evenly fix the initial bar. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. The clarity of geometric lines and the general appearance of the siding finish of a private house depend on it.

Installation of internal and external corners

Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the junctions of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting bar, already attached to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the uppermost hole for fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.

External and internal corners are set so that the lower edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and the upper part is 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice

Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The remaining self-tapping screws down the bar in increments of 30 cm are already screwed in the middle of the holes and not all the way. This is the only way PVC sheathing of the house will be able to "breathe" and not be deformed.

The extension of the corner elements is overlapped. At the top bar from the bottom, the inner side edges are trimmed by 25 mm. It starts at the bottom corner by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of slats on door and window openings

The next stage is the lining of the openings of the house under the windows and doors with a casing. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you will have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles, you will have to make cuts in the sides with a bend of the cut-off part of the panel, and in the lower ones, make a 45-degree angle cut.

Cutting the window profile

Vertical strips are cut at an angle from above, and cut out from below with a similar bend in the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to sheathe the house beautifully with siding, but to dock the platbands so that no water can seep into the joints anywhere.

Installing the main panels

With the main slats, everything is much simpler. The first of them only needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed on the crate. The rest will follow one after the other. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate the house with do-it-yourself siding in just a day.

In case of a lack of siding length, we join several planks through the H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and secure the connecting H-profile in advance. The distances below and above are the same as for the outer or inner corner.

Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with the finishing profile or molding

Do not forget to make "hooks" at the top of the panel

A finishing bar is attached to the upper edge of the windboard on similar “hooks” with the molding

Soffits are installed between molding and J-bevel

The strips should be fixed from the middle to the edges, placing the screws strictly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The final touch of the vinyl cladding of houses is the installation of the finishing panel with the insertion of the topmost main PVC rail into it.

What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding

The technology of work is such that sheathing of houses can be done year-round. But at sub-zero temperatures, the siding should be taken outside in advance so that the material acclimatizes.

If the house is old, then problems with cladding with vinyl panels should not arise. But the new building must be allowed to settle completely, otherwise the decor of the facade will be deformed. No gaps will help in this situation.

Numerous photos of houses sheathed with siding delight the eye. In order for everything to turn out no worse with self-assembly, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.

Examples of correct and incorrect siding fastening

Table of temperature gaps

When installing vinyl siding, consider the air temperature shown in the table below. For example, if you are installing at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the main bar 3.6 m long can lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.

We sheathe the house with siding, finishing options and an overview of materials

The owners of country houses once think about how and with what to sheathe their building so that it is protected from external influences and at the same time looks quite attractive.

The construction market offers a large selection of building materials for decoration, but not everyone is suitable for a house that is old or built from lightweight building materials. Country siding is well suited for sheathing a small house and for excellent results.

Variety of this material

It is important to understand that different types of the same finish may differ in certain characteristics. And this means that one option is suitable for a house with a long service life, and the other is better to choose for a newly built and reliable building. Let's deal with different types of siding:

  • Metal. Made from galvanized steel or aluminium. Facing has excellent strength properties, perfectly protects against mechanical, biological and atmospheric influences. But not every house can withstand the weight of such a sheathing. It is better to choose for houses made of brick or blocks.

  • Fiber cement panels. High-quality cement and cellulose fibers are used as raw materials. As a result, the siding is durable and reliable. But for the price, this option is more expensive, and also has a lot of weight and is hardly suitable for frame summer houses.

  • Wooden siding. This type of finish is made from natural wood with the addition of synthetic resins, which makes it more resistant to the external environment. But one must also take into account the fact that a tree, even protected by certain compositions, is an extremely impractical material. After a while, it loses its attractiveness, then you have to spend time and a day updating the facade.

  • Vinyl panels. This option is ideal as a siding for a country house. Finishing is easy and reliable and at the same time the price is quite affordable. True, you will have to ensure that you do not damage it with garden tools. But the lower sections of the house can be finished with plinth vinyl siding. Manufacturers have made it specially much stronger.

Benefits of vinyl siding

Such material has a number of advantages that distinguish it from other types of this finish.

  • Ease. Allows you to easily transport and move elements. In addition, it can be installed both on new buildings and on old ones.
  • Protective functions. Vinyl siding perfectly resists temperature fluctuations, a humid environment, and the effects of microorganisms.
  • Wide selection of colors and textures.
  • Affordable price.
  • Unpretentious care. Use plain water for cleaning. More serious dirt is removed with a sponge and detergent. But ordinary melt or rain water can easily cope with dust.
  • Long service life. Some manufacturers indicate a figure of about 50 years. But be careful when choosing colors. Often low-quality dyes are chosen to reduce the cost, and bright colors lose their attractiveness after the first sunny season. Therefore, it is better to choose pastel shades.

Finish options

Finishing a country house with siding can be done in several ways:

  1. Horizontal lining. Use horizontal panels.
  2. Vertical lining. It is carried out using vertical siding.
  3. Decoration with a basement view of the cladding of the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade.
  4. Various combinations. It all depends on the imagination and tastes of the owner. You can combine horizontal and vertical, basement with horizontal or vertical siding. You can also add other types of finishing materials (natural or artificial stone, facade tiles, plaster).

How to do the installation yourself

In order to independently carry out the lining of a country house, you need to know, and strictly adhere to, a completely uncomplicated work plan.

  • Training. This stage includes the preparation of the foundation, the calculation and purchase of all necessary materials.
  • Frame construction.
  • Siding installation.

Preparatory stage

Let's start with the calculation of the necessary materials and their purchase. Typically, manufacturers produce panels with a length of 2.5 to 6 m and a width of 22–27 cm. Knowing the length and height of the walls of the building, you can calculate how many parts you need. It is necessary not to forget about additional elements (starting and finishing strip, corner elements, connecting strip, if necessary).

You need to buy with a margin of 10-15%. This amount will be enough to cover the damaged elements during installation or transportation. It is also advisable to buy everything from the same batch of the same manufacturer. The dimensions of the parts and even the shade may differ in different batches, and even more so among manufacturers.

After everything is bought, you need to start preparing the base:

  1. Remove all incoming parts - sewers, antennas, fasteners.
  2. Clean the surface of the old decorative coating.
  3. Remove stains and traces of fungi or insects.
  4. Treat the walls with a deep penetration primer. This stage should not be skipped, since the composition will help protect the base from moisture and fungus, which means it will help maintain a pleasant indoor climate.

Frame construction

Before you put the frame on which the siding panels will be attached, you can attach a heater. Additional thermal insulation will make the country house warmer in the cold season, in the hot season it will keep cool.

To fix the insulation material you need:

  • Lay the vapor barrier film. Joints must be sealed with tape.
  • Attach heater. You can use the one that you like the technical characteristics more.
  • Lay another layer of vapor barrier film. Protects the insulating material from evaporation from the interior, moisture and cold gusts of wind from the external environment.

Now let's move on to the frame. For horizontal siding, a vertical crate is installed, for vertical - a horizontal version. The distance between the elements should not exceed 50 cm.

Siding installation

There is a specific plan according to which this cladding is installed. Even a beginner can handle this task.

  1. Fixing the starting bar.
  2. Installation of corner elements.
  3. Fixing the first panel. The lower edge is placed in the starting bar, the sides are installed in the corner pieces. On the upper side there are holes for fasteners, you need to put and fix a self-tapping screw or a nail in them. Do not over tighten fasteners. After installation, the part should be movable by 2-3 mm in both directions.
  4. Installation of all subsequent panels.
  5. Attaching the finish line.

Step-by-step instructions for self-plating a house with siding, photo and video

Siding is a dry type of exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially those made of foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not exert a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple maintenance, excellent protective properties and a wide selection of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Tools and materials

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

  • grinder or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
  • screwdriver and screwdriver
  • a hammer,
  • tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
  • a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate the required number of certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

  • Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only for decorative purposes, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
  • Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, internal corners are also used at the points of its connection with the wall. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
  • To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
  • The required length of the starting bar is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
  • At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
  • The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
  • A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
  • If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are maintained.
  • The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
  • For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up with cement mortar or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses are treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing installation

The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use 60 * 40 mm slats with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected to anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

For wooden, aerated concrete walls, the installation of waterproofing is mandatory, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then the turn of the corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying the top planks on the side ones.

When installing H-profiles vertically in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.

Panel installation

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.

What should be taken into account?

Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the strips and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

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