Do roses need to be spudded for the winter. Winter shelter of roses

So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering the ground around rose bushes it is necessary to dig a shovel onto a bayonet, doing this very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.

Hilling roses for the winter

One of the components of the winter shelter of roses is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect the root system from frost. To the base of the bush, you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.

Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earthen shelter remains higher for some time than outside.

Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.

Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.

In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.

Shelter of roses with spruce branches

This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.

Air dry shelter roses

This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent insulation with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, since the bushes with its help are protected from the penetration of excess moisture, and due to the air gap, the plant is not in danger of hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since in early spring shelters will need to be ventilated.

Shelter of standard roses for the winter

It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.

Planting a standard rose, taking into account further bending down to the ground

Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering nonwoven fabric. For greater reliability, the crown can first be pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.

Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground

Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

When creating protective winter shelters, garden soil is used as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

the material should not be moisture-intensive;
the material should not cake and compact;
the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root neck rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are constant discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. An additional construction of an air-dry shelter above the bush will be required.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system more sensitive to frost than roses grafted onto hardy rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.

Tasks of the grower

A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing, based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.

Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:

foliage removal;
hilling bushes;
shelter them from the cold.

Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose

Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:

increases resistance to frost;
provides access sunlight to stems;
ventilates the crown;
encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.

Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.

Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.

Preparatory procedures before pruning

Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before winter training plants:

collect fallen leaves from the ground;
carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
try not to hurt the stem itself;
stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.

Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.

The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:

Hilling bushes

Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.

Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.

Cutting technology

The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.

After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:

Trimming process

3 year olds or older;
with a large number side branches;
covered with dry bark.

Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.

Different types of roses have their own pruning features:

Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.

How to insulate roses for the winter

If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.

Preparing for winter

The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. Suitable for these tasks wooden boxes or similar designs. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.

From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.

Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.

Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.

An alternative to wooden boxes is spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.

We continue the conversation about preparing the rosary for winter (you can read the beginning in the publication). In our harsh Russian climate, roses spend in a shelter (just think!) Almost half a year. The success of wintering will depend on how competently we take care of our favorites. Sometimes it's a pity to send our gorgeous roses into forced confinement, but we have no other choice.

Pre-winter preparation

In a previous publication, I settled on the fact that in the dry season of Indian summer it is necessary to tie and bend to the ground. Pre-cut off the unripened tops of scrubs and climbings, English and musk roses, remove flowering shoots with buds.

Roses in the dry season of Indian summer must be tied and bent to the ground.A photo

Second: when pruning leaves, it is easy to damage the delicate skin of the shoots, where the infection will penetrate. But most importantly, the leaves of roses continue to participate in the process of photosynthesis, giving everything the roots of plants need. This continues even in shelter with meager rays of light that penetrate there (if translucent lutrasil was used). To deprive them of such an opportunity means to weaken the plants.

It has been noticed that those roses that have lost their leaves as a result of black spot disease winter much worse and die more often. Therefore, the main task is to keep the leaves to the last. And in the spring they themselves will disappear, and you can easily collect them.

We save the leaves to the last.A photo

Whether to spud roses

Another controversial issue- whether to fall asleep necks of grafted roses. There is an opinion that this must be done in the fall to prevent them from freezing. In my opinion, it's best to leave things as they are. To rake the earth around means to expose the roots, it is not advisable. It is dangerous to fall asleep, as biochemical processes continue in it. This is an active microbiological environment in which an infectious burn develops. By spring, the stems of roses covered with compost will be ringed. brown spots, the stems will have to be removed and it’s good if the rose does not die at all.

Infectious burn of a rose.A photo

It is even worse to use for these purposes, even if rotted. My neighbors once covered their roses up to half the height with manure so that they would be “warmer”. The result was sad: in the spring the plants turned black, the entire collection was destroyed.

Friendly advice: if you have a lot of roses, do everything in stages. Prepared a dozen plants - cover, then proceed to others. This must be done due to the unpredictability of our weather. We learned this from one incident when we prepared our rose garden for the final shelter, and the next morning it snowed.

Universal spruce branches

In old Russian gardens roses were traditionally covered. This natural material, thanks to numerous needles, creates a kind of airy "fur coat" that keeps the heat coming from the ground. It is important that this fur coat also "breathes", which prevents the processes of decay.

In addition, needles are an excellent aseptic material. Under the spruce branches, covered with snowdrifts, roses feel great both in frost and during thaws.

Under spruce branches, roses feel great.A photo

However, recently it has become increasingly difficult to get hold of spruce branches, as in the old days. In outskirts of Moscow coniferous forests entire hectares are destroyed by the typographer beetle, it has become easy natural disaster. If you're lucky just find fallen tree consider yourself very lucky. And in all other cases, the harvesting of spruce branches should be stopped for ethical reasons. Numerous rose lovers should think about the fate of the forests.

Last year, we were unexpectedly lucky - a neighbor cut down a large "Kremlin" Christmas tree on his site, and we got a luxurious spruce branch, under which our roses comfortably overwintered. But this happens once in a lifetime. In other cases, you need to look alternative options.

Lapnik is an ideal hiding place for roses.A photo

Air dry shelter

Our savvy rose growers came up with the so-called air dry shelter. This is exclusively Russian know-how. A strong frame is constructed around the perimeter of the rose garden, on which boards are laid, covering material is spread over them, for example, roofing material, lutrasil or spunbond.

A strong frame is being built around the perimeter of the rose garden.A photo

Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame. This is done so that the spunbond does not fall into the shelter under the weight of snow. Under such shelter it is warm and dry.

Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame.A photo

However, this method requires a compact planting of roses in a single array. Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.

Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.A photo

Before frost, such a structure must be ventilated by removing excess moisture, for this, the ends are left open. And only when the temperature drops to -5 ... -7 ° C, they are closed. This method has the right to exist, but it is not without drawbacks.

To begin with, the construction of such a large-scale structure will require certain skills and materials. A huge mass of snow in a year of heavy snowfalls can break this shelter, and simply crush the roses under it. Therefore, it must be made reliable and strong.

Roses are there literally in a dungeon, not receiving sunlight. By spring, they become pale and tortured. When the time comes to open them, the plants may suffer from bright spring sun. At one time we practiced this method of hiding in our garden, but in last years considered that the use of modern covering technologies and materials makes the life of a rose grower much easier.

Modern ways

most acceptable and accessible way rose shelters today can be considered the use of modern ones - lutrasil, spunbond, agril, the invention of which greatly facilitated the life of rose lovers. The density of such materials must be at least 60 g/m².

Plants are covered with at least 2 layers with the waxed side up (important!). With such a shelter, roses "breathe", when wet from rains or during thaws, lutrasil dries quickly, it is easy to work with. The edges of the fabric must be securely fastened with bricks or boards so that it is not blown away by the wind. After the snowfalls begin, the roses will be in a safe and warm shelter.

Reliable shelter for roses.A photo

I must say that some gardeners use covering material in a completely wrong way, simply wrapping upright bushes with it. One often sees such "ghosts" in snow-covered gardens. However, such, so to speak, protection will not save the rose from frost. After all, it is known that it is not the blanket that warms us, but we are the blanket. So in this case, the rose is not able to generate heat, it gives the earth. Therefore, we bend our roses to mother earth - a source of heat, covering material shields its losses into the atmosphere, and snow works like a thermos. A rose wrapped in a cloth is left alone with the frost and is not able to survive the harsh winter.

It is noted that "in big company» Roses overwinter better than single roses. This is due to the fact that with a large area of \u200b\u200bshelter under it, more comfortable temperature because the earth is warm. Above large roses at the bending points, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise, this is done so that the snow does not break them.

Above large roses in the places of the fold, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise.A photo

In such places, a dome is formed, from which the snow mass will inevitably slide. In conclusion, we throw more on lutrasil polyethylene film, leaving air at the bottom for ventilation. This film protects the shelter from rain in autumn, from glaciation after winter thaws and, importantly, serves as additional protection against melt water in spring.

Properly wrapped roses will sleep peacefully all winter. Closer to spring, we will definitely talk about how to competently and safely release our captives and what to do with them later.

A delicate flower not only protects itself with thorns. For all its external fragility, the plant turns out to be a real fighter, it can survive even the first frosts with dignity. It is precisely because of this stability that gardeners are always advised to what temperature roses can be left uncovered, and how to avoid the most common mistakes. At what temperature to cover roses for the winter, read right now.

When to cover roses for the winter

Under cover, roses can withstand long-term drops in temperature even to -30 without snow, and without it they freeze already at -12, especially hybrid tea. So when is the best time to hide? Even professionals often give the wrong answer to this question for beginners.

It is generally accepted that roses should be covered when the temperature is set at -5 ... -7 o. Many still firmly believe that frosts will not only not damage roses, but rather harden them before wintering. These tips were born when there were no non-woven breathable materials yet and they were covered in the old fashioned way - a spud plus spruce branches. With this method, early packed roses could simply soak at positive temperatures, but now it is no longer necessary to wait for frost. Lutrasil transmits light, air and retains heat, smoothing out the difference between day and night temperatures. Weather late autumn unpredictable, you can’t guess what will happen: a small minus (-5o), at which open roses will not suffer, or suddenly -12o- and they will immediately freeze.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut and cover the bushes from October 15th. By this time, the vegetation of the roses stops, they begin to enter a state of dormancy. But it is quite possible to start this business earlier, for example, from October 1. Practice has shown that early shelter does not harm in any way. On the contrary, roses ripen in greater comfort.

Preparing roses for winter

Experienced gardeners know that leaving roses open for the winter is not worth it. By spring, they may die completely or be injured from frost. Which roses need to be covered for the winter, in what way, each gardener decides individually, based on personal experience. But preparatory work start early when lush bloom roses are pleasing to the eye. It is necessary to carry out planned activities from the middle of summer, so that the bush gain strength and be able to successfully winter:

Stop making complex and organic fertilizers and switch to potassium and phosphorus;
The last top dressing is carried out in mid-September, when potassium magnesia is scattered under the bushes to strengthen the roots.

Autumn pruning of roses

Rose pruning is compulsory procedure, which must be carried out with all roses, except climbing ones. There are several types of pruning:

light shaping pruning. With such pruning, you just need to slightly shorten the shoots, leaving about two-thirds of them. The cut must be made with sharp scissors or secateurs, always at an acute angle about one and a half centimeters above the kidney, which grows outward;
medium cut. Such pruning can be done with any rose bushes that have been growing with you for more than a year. The rules are the same as for forming pruning - an acute angle, a cut above the kidney, the kidney should grow outward;
strong rejuvenating pruning. Such pruning should be carried out with plants that are five or more years old. This is an excellent anti-aging agent for rose bushes, it stimulates flowering, shoot growth, helps roses to overwinter easily and promotes good growth. With this method, stumps about 12-15 cm from the ground remain from the bush.

Pruning roses in the fall for beginners can sometimes seem like something difficult. This is not true at all - if you do not know how to prune your roses properly, shorten their shoots by half. With this option, you will form a crown, and rejuvenate your bush, and prepare it for cold winter. Medium pruning for beginners is a win-win.

Autumn processing of roses

Bush processing protective equipment carried out only after all the leaves have been disposed of. If flowers remain on the shoots, only the petals are removed, and the boxes are left. If they are cut off, the plant regards this as a signal for the activity of nearby buds. If the autumn is warm, they have time to germinate and die with the onset of frost. And that means they freeze. That is why those varieties that are not pruned for the winter are freed from leaves, but the fruits are not touched.

Many gardeners try to choose disease-resistant roses, but even they should be protected from possible diseases. Even if your yard is perfectly groomed, danger can come from a neighboring garden or from wild plantings. That is why you should not rely on chance and treat roses from infection. Especially if there are obvious symptoms of the disease. Autumn spraying with fungicides will not allow pathogens to survive until spring. This way you can avoid spreading it.

For this, both long-tested and modern drugs are used.

One of the most famous substances for the autumn processing of roses is inkstone. For autumn spraying of roses, a solution is prepared from 300 g of the substance and 10 liters of water (3% solution). The treatment is carried out after complete dissolution of the crystals.

Iron vitriol can only be diluted in glass, plastic or enameled containers. In metal containers, chemical reaction with the release of harmful iron oxide. When working with the drug, precautions must be observed for means of the third hazard class.

Articles for flower growers

Hilling roses before shelter for the winter

After pruning the mature shoots of roses, regardless of species, the hilling procedure is carried out. Hilling roses is carried out with the aim of:

protect plants from cracking at the base of the stem;
additionally warm the roots of the plant;
protect the lower buds of plants from frost, which are on next year form new young shoots. Read also the article: → "Do I need to dig up roses for the winter."

Spud roses with loose compost, peat substrate and nutrient garden soil. It is not recommended to spud roses with materials such as shavings, sawdust, hay and straw. These materials often lead to decay of the basal neck of the bush, and are also a favorable environment for the propagation of fungal diseases.

The dependence of the method of insulation on the type of flowers

Park Rose. It tolerates frost well, and therefore there is no need for shelter. However, seedlings or young bushes are best insulated. ground cover rose. This species does not require special care.
floribunda. The bushes are cut in half, leaving a maximum height of 40 cm, the leaves are removed. Then spud and cover with improvised materials. miniature rose. Small ones are spudded, covered with dry foliage and insulation, and a frame is installed on top of them. From above, a film is stretched onto metal arcs or wooden boxes, the ends are strengthened.

Climbing rose. The stems are twisted into bundles, thick shoots are carefully pinned with wire so that they do not touch the ground, and laid on dry foliage or needles, sprinkled with the same layer of insulation on top and covered with polyethylene or synthetic fiber. Bush rose. spray rose you need to shorten and sprinkle with prepared earth with a layer of 30 cm. In this case, the entire gap must be filled. The vaccine should be hidden under a seven-centimeter layer. Tea-hybrid rose. The best method of protection would be an air-dry shelter. standard rose. Apply air-dry shelter.