Is it possible to water onions with soapy water. How to water onions after planting? When and how to water onions: the rate and frequency of watering

There is no need to talk about specific planting numbers for onions. Sevok is planted when the earth warms up to a depth of 6-10 centimeters.

If you focus on the weather, then early and warm spring planting can be done at the end of April. Onions cannot be planted in cold ground, but planting cannot be delayed either. The main guideline is the temperature of the soil, which should not be lower than + 12 ° С.

Planting material preparation

It is very important to properly prepare planting material. If the sevok was purchased, it should be dried. Grown by hand and stored at a temperature below + 18 ° C - warm up.

Warming up the onion is a long process, carried out in several stages. Stage 1. At a temperature of +20 ° C, the onion must be kept for 15 to 20 days. Stage 2. Keep the onion for 8-10 hours at a temperature of + 30 ° C to + 40 ° C . It is important not to overdo it. The heated seedlings are treated with a growth stimulator before planting. If phased preparation is not possible, it is necessary to perform the following procedure immediately before planting a crop:

• soak the seedlings in water with a temperature of +45°С - +50°С for no more than 10-15 minutes; after the above time, immediately immerse the planting material in cold water also for 10-15 minutes; place the seeds for 5-6 hours in a solution of complex mineral fertilizer.

A mandatory procedure that must be carried out before planting onion sets is disinfection. For processing, both a weak solution of potassium permanganate and a solution of copper sulfate (35 grams per 10 liters of water) are suitable. There is a method, the so-called grandmother's secret of planting onion sets, which is as follows:

• planting material is dried for 7 days, the temperature should be from + 20 ° C to + 25 ° C; before planting, the bulbs are soaked for 3 hours in a saline solution (2 tablespoons of salt per 2 liters of water); the bulbs are washed; the seeds are immersed in a dark solution potassium permanganate for 2 hours; washed again;

This completes the preparation of the sowing for planting.

Soil preparation

Before preparing the soil, you need to choose a site for planting. It is important to know that onions are a light-loving plant, so the area where it will grow should be open and well lit. This culture is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate excessive amounts of water, so you should avoid areas where groundwater passes. The soil for this crop is started cook from autumn. Onion - a lover of loose, nutrient soil, so it is necessary:

• dig the ground to a depth of 15 to 20 cm; apply fertilizer from rotted manure (you can fertilize with peat-dung compost).

An important point is that it is necessary to fertilize the land at this stage of soil preparation, it is strictly forbidden to add organic fertilizer to the soil before planting in order to avoid the growth of the upper part of the plant and the dormancy of the lower one, as well as the appearance of weeds. Before planting, it is contraindicated to make humus and chicken manure.

It is necessary to take into account the level of soil acidity. If the soil is acidic, then it is necessary to carry out liming with one of the following components:

• lime;

Should onions be watered after planting?

Sanja spec pro 6h6u7 2 years ago

There are two opinions: some recommend watering the planted onion so that it is like in a swamp, others say that it should be watered extremely rarely. Does that mean there will be enough rain? Where is the truth, please answer

Day 2 years ago

A very small onion has very weak roots, so you need to water it, but this is not rice to stand in a swamp, especially considering the propensity of onions to downy mildew. Therefore, while the onion is small, you just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out, you do not need to fill it.

And when the bulbs begin to gain their size, watering should be completely reduced. Last year, by the way, the rainy season fell during the ripening period of the bulbs and the entire crop rotted in the bud, not a single bulb was preserved. So everything is good in moderation.

shallots with interesting history and a bunch of onions

Planting onions

The principles of planting onions "for food" and for decorative purposes are the same. The main rule: do not plant onions after related crops, so that the bulbs do not rot and there are no other diseases.

But tomatoes, cabbage, peas and beans are excellent predecessors. Choose a bright, warm place for landing, so that the sun warms the soil. For decorative bows, this is also important condition beautiful coloration.

And for onions, light and warmth are juicy onions and bright greens. In addition, loose warm soil reduces the risk of rot. Onion loves fertile soil, well seasoned with organic and mineral fertilizers, with a reaction close to neutral.

As a rule, prepare a bed for onions in advance. You can plant both before winter (early autumn) and in early spring. Before winter, onions are usually planted “on a feather” in order to delight themselves in the spring with fresh herbs, but if you follow simple rules, then it is possible on a turnip.

I planted sevka several times (small onions grown from seeds) before winter, but in the spring it very quickly began to shoot to the detriment of greenery and the formation of an onion. After reading an article about winter landing Luka understood: for this, sevok should be chosen no more than 1-1.5 cm in diameter.

In the spring, seedlings are planted in the first decade of May in well-warmed soil. The problem in this case is only its preservation in winter: small onions can dry out. And yet, if planted in the soil, the temperature of which is less than +12 degrees, the onion will quickly begin to shoot.

But it’s also not worth it to be late with planting - this can affect the development and quality of the bow later.

Preparing planting material

We sort out the seeds collected in the fall (damaged ones are not suitable for planting).

The day before planting, I put them in cheesecloth and soak in warm water. I also sort out the sevok and distribute it more carefully in size. I keep sevok at home - at room temperature or a little lower - and the day before landing I put it closer to the battery to warm up.

If the bow was kept cool, it is also better to warm it up, otherwise the rapid appearance of arrows cannot be avoided. Immediately before planting the bulbs in gauze, I put them in a solution of copper sulphate for 10 minutes (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). This reduces the risk of fungal diseases.

Some gardeners also soak in a fertilizer solution, I don't do that.

Planting

So, we make a bed, once again we dig it well, remove the weeds. Depending on what kind of planting material we take, we select this planting pattern:

1. Sevok I plant to a depth of about 4 cm, I make the distance between rows 25 cm, I leave a little more than 10 cm between the bulbs. I usually mulch the soil with humus 2. If I sow seeds(they form at the end of a mature arrow in the fall), I plant them no more than 2 cm into the soil (the scheme is approximately 13x1.5 cm), I water it abundantly from a small watering can and cover it with plastic wrap.

onion care

Watering

Onions need moisture to develop properly. Many sources say that it makes sense to water onions once a week.

But in 2013, for example, the summer was inconsistent: either the sun was hot, and the tips of the onion feathers had already dried up in a couple of days, or it was raining when the bulbs were already formed (the bulb ripening process begins in July), and watering was not particularly required. In this case, you need to look so that the onion does not dry out, but also does not overflow.

Greens will be the first to let you know about excess moisture - it will turn pale green.

fertilizers

If the onion does not go green for a long time, it makes sense to feed it liquid fertilizers. Perfect for 1 liter. urea +1 glass of mullein. After a couple of weeks, you can feed again.

Loosening and weeding

It makes sense to loosen the onions several times a week, but I usually limit myself to once. Be sure to weed the onions.

Last summer I planted it in different places: one was in the open sun, and the second - in a warm sunny place but with intermittent sunshine. I was in no hurry to weed the onion growing on the “ashes” itself - I just broke through the most aggressive weeds so that small feathers would not drown out, and when the onion gained strength, weeds can be removed.

This helped for some time to protect young feathers from overdrying and wilting.

Treatment against fungus

Many gardeners, when the feather reaches 15 cm, treat the foliage with a solution of copper sulfate in order to prevent fungus.

I did not spend, and while the fungus bypasses my bow. My grandmother liked to add 1 tablespoon of laundry soap grated and dissolved in water to the copper sulphate solution.

Propagation of onions

Onions propagate through seeds.

At the end of summer, arrows with "balls" at the end are formed on the plants - they contain the seeds. When the arrow is dry and the seeds turn black, carefully dump them in for storage.

Seeds are used to obtain small onions - sevka, from which a full-fledged bulb is formed a year after planting.

Cleaning and storage of onions

If no new feathers are formed, it is September, the foliage has died, and the bulbs are pleasing to the eye with golden scales, it's time to start cleaning. The main thing is not to tighten it, otherwise the bow will decide to “wake up” and start growing.

Usually, when I dig up onions, I don’t wash them - this is how it has historically happened in our family: after a good drying and removal of scales, it becomes perfectly clean. But this year there were constant rains, so after the onion was dug up, it had to be washed, the roots removed, and the feathers trimmed.

After that, the onion is laid out to dry in one layer. For drying, you need a bright, well-ventilated area. After about 3 weeks, scales form even on bare bulbs, then the crop can be put into boxes or containers for storage.

Our bow is usually laid out on the street under a canopy, and in the first days after we dug it, we leave it right on the ridge under the sun.

Varieties of onion

Odintsovo- included in the State Register for many districts, including the Central.

Recommended for growing on a turnip from seeds and sets. Mid-season bulb, round, flat or round-flat. The maximum weight is about 80 g. This is one of my mother's favorite varieties; it is juicy and the scales are crispy.

Suitable for fresh consumption in salads - not "nuclear" burning. The upper dry scales of the bulbs are golden yellow. Variety suitable for storage Bessonovsky- refers to the local varieties of Penza. The shape of the bulb is rounded flat with a clear elongation of the neck upwards.

The upper scales are yellow. Bulb is dense. Bulb weight - about 45 g. Burning spicy taste. well kept

Tell us, what kind of onions do you grow?

How to care for onions and how to feed them

Working in the garden gives many people incomparable pleasure. But it, like many years ago, is very laborious, requires a constant return of strength and energy.

Therefore, every gardener wants to see a worthy reward for his labors in the form of a big harvest in the fall. You can carefully look after your beds, water them regularly, protect them from pests and diseases, and not get the desired harvest, because one of the necessary agricultural practices has fallen out of a list of your gardening jobs. This refers to plant nutrition, which is simply necessary.

Therefore, many people have a question - how to feed onions in the spring? A lot can grow in the garden onion plants. In spring, one of the first to raise its bright green feathers above the ground bow-batun, the very one whose stems we cut with such pleasure into a spring salad.

It should be noted that this onion is quite unpretentious, and does not need any additional feeding. By the way, if you grow onions because of their usefulness, you need to know that the radish contains no fewer vitamins. You can learn about growing radishes in this article.

She is not whimsical, so if you know a few rules, good harvest you are provided with this root crop. The only thing to consider is that when we plant onions in a garden for the first time, the soil in it must be completely filled with mineral or organic fertilizers. Then his green feathers will grow without any problems, delighting us with vitamins all summer long.

The same can be said about onion sets - it grows well in a pre-fertilized bed, without needing additional dressings. This is not at all the case with turnip, for its normal development, timely top dressing is necessary. This bow is very responsive to mineral fertilizers and absorbs them with great pleasure and speed, depleting and impoverishing the soil.

How to care for onions

The soil for the onion bed is prepared in the fall, it is fertilized with compost (humus), per sq.m. beds goes 10 kg of compost (humus). If the soil is depleted, you can fill it with mineral fertilizers, after making full complex the area is being dug up.

The spring digging of the site is not as deep as in the fall, after digging, nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water. Before fertilizing, weak, diseased plants must be removed. During this period, the onion is in need of nitrogen, phosphorus. In order for the onion to grow normally, after the appearance of the first 5-6 leaves, we carry out phosphorus and potassium top dressing.

How to feed onions

Dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. l. superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium. An aqueous solution with fertilizers will be useful in dry weather, if the weather is humid, dry fertilizers are scattered between the rows, shallowly planting them in the soil. Top dressing should be carried out slowly so that there is as much benefit from it as possible, water it under the plant, on a quiet evening .

If the weather is very dry, watering with ordinary water is carried out before feeding. Some gardeners, not knowing how to feed onions, carry out feeding fresh manure what not to do, as manure decomposes slowly and on initial stage growth, the plant will not receive the nitrogen it needs. But by the middle of summer, there will be too much nitrogen from the decomposition of manure, a powerful gray feather will stand on the garden bed, and food will not be supplied to the bulbs, all because of the same excess of nitrogen. They ripen late and store poorly.

How to grow a good large onion. We observe the plant itself.

First, let's talk about how to water onions. Onions need regular watering from planting until early July, then watering should be stopped, but do not forget to loosen the soil between the rows.

An onion feather may not lie down for a long time and remain green, you do not need to wring it or roll it, an infection is introduced into the broken leaves, which will not allow the onion to be well preserved. The growth of the feather, and its lodging is stopped in a different way - by limiting the access of moisture to the leaves. When growing a turnip, you cannot cut its feather, this will not allow you to get a good bulb. How to feed onions if the tips of their feathers turn white? There are several reasons for this phenomenon:

• The acidic composition of the soil, it is urgent to help it. 3 tbsp calcium nitrate is diluted in 10 liters of water, 1/2 cup of the solution should be poured under the plant. You can use lime if there is no saltpeter - dilute one glass per 10 liters of water or make a solution of ash (pour 2 cups of ash with boiling water, pouring them into a bucket of water).
• If only the tips of the onion feather turn white, you need to know that the reason here lies in the lack of copper, very often this happens on peat soils. Water the soil under the bulbs with a solution of homa (copper oxychloride). One tsp the drug must be dissolved in 5 liters of water to get a 1% solution. You can successfully pour onions and Bordeaux liquid, blue vitriol and oxychoma.
• The reason may be a lack of potassium, the leaves not only have white tips, but also a deformed, twisted leaf. We urgently help the onion with the help of potash top dressing. 3 art. l. dissolve any potash fertilizer in 10 liters of water, pour 1 glass of top dressing per plant.
• If the cause of white leaves is an early frost, feeding with potassium, calcium nitrate (proportions of 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) can help the plant.

Now that we know how to dwarf onions and have already done all the necessary feeding, we will wait for a good harvest. You probably know that with the help of onions you can make any dish richer and healthier. For example, onions are used when cooking crayfish or in dishes with buckwheat.

Onion storage conditions

Onion harvesting is carried out on a sunny, dry morning, they are allowed to lie down in their own garden for several hours, they are transferred to dry room to dry. The room must be well ventilated.

After the onion dries, cut off its roots, without touching the bottom, remove the excess husk. If you are weaving an onion braid, then you need to hang it and store it in a dry place.

You can also cut the greens by putting the onion in fabric bags and hanging it. It is necessary to provide the onion with the necessary temperature for storage, not lower than +20 C, if it is an apartment. The storage should be + 4 C. In case of non-compliance temperature regime(+12, +18 C), the onion will release flower arrows, and the whole will grow. How to remove the onion in bad weather - it is immediately cleaned of feathers, husks and stored in a dry room in one row.

After 2-3 weeks, the bulbs will acquire new golden-colored shirts, they are very thin, consist of one layer. Such an onion is perfectly stored in cardboard box, it is dry, clean, has no extra husk. We immediately reject the bulbs with an open neck, putting them on food or blanks.

The leftover bow will keep well. This technique can be used always, not only in inclement weather.

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There is no need to rush with planting a seedling: the soil should warm up to at least 10 ° C. IN middle lane this is usually the third decade of April-beginning of May. May holidays are the best time.

But it also makes no sense to be late: productivity, marketability, resistance to pests and diseases are sharply reduced. Therefore, it is advisable to be in time before May 10. Onions should be planted on ridges or on ridges, especially when groundwater is close to groundwater.

The raised ridge contributes to a better supply of air, heat, and therefore better absorption nutrients.It is rational to place the bow in several lines, the distance between which should be sufficient for subsequent processing with a hoe. The step between the bulbs is about 8 cm, the depth is 3-4 cm.

The bulbs are not just laid out in rows, but slightly pressed in so that the growing roots do not bulge out. Otherwise, the sevok can quickly be above the surface of the earth, after which curious birds will pull it out and scatter it with great pleasure. And we don't need it at all.

Loosening - fight weeds

In order to make life easier for yourself, to help better plant formation and a higher yield, the onion must be systematically loosened. The procedure must be carried out after each watering or rain, at least once a week.

You should not try to compensate for the missed loosening with its depth, it only brings harm - it is strongly not recommended to disturb the soil deeper than 5-7 cm. What is it connected with?

Myriads of weed seeds of different generations lie in the ground, but at a depth of more than 5 cm they do not germinate. It is worth raising them higher (and this is inevitable with deep loosening) - and the bed will “bloom” with weeds that will take moisture and food from the onion and release oppressive poisonous substances.

The absence of "competitors" contributes to better breathing of the root system and good nutrition. Therefore, if you loosen to the same depth, everything will be fine: both onions are good and there is less weeding.

Watering

The next secret to success is hydration. High yield without watering in the first 60 days is unthinkable. The nature of the onion is as follows: with a lack of moisture, the plant forms 3-4 leaves, forms a small onion and hibernates.

The homeland of this plant is Central Asia, where everything blooms luxuriantly and smells sweet only in spring, but then hibernates in anticipation of winter coolness and moisture. And it is worth creating our varietal bow arid conditions- he instantly rushes "back to nature", after which this small onion cannot be brought out of dormancy by anything. Therefore, constant watering is precisely in the first 60 days after planting.

You don’t need to water daily: onions are not cucumbers and cabbages. Twice a week is enough. This is also true for weekend residents: it is easy to organize watering on Friday immediately upon arrival and on Sunday before departure. Cold water should not be used.

Only warmed up, stood in barrels during the day. It is strictly forbidden to water the onions on the leaves! Just gently moisten the soil between rows. Otherwise, we ourselves create a microclimate that contributes to the infection of plants with downy mildew - peronosporosis.

No sprinkling, no watering cans with strainers! But starting from the second half of summer (in the middle lane, the Orthodox holiday can be considered a landmark - the day of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, July 12), most varieties form bulbs. Further, they do not need moisture - by analogy with their homeland Central Asia where it is hot and dry at this time.

Only under this condition will a high-quality, tasty bulb be formed with a high content of dry matter and sucrose, due to which it is better stored. The good keeping quality of the bulb is related to its dry matter and sucrose content.

Not any sugars, namely sucrose - the more it is, the longer our healing product is stored. It depends mainly on the variety, as well as on the growing conditions: in dry and hot summers, more solids and sucrose accumulate in the bulb, and it is better stored. Much depends on the person: this is the observance of the sowing dates, the irrigation regime and nutrition.

Fertilizers and top dressing

The onion root system is very weak, 90% of it is located in a soil layer 30 cm deep. Accordingly, this crop needs fertile, rich in humus, humus and other soil elements.

The culture under which it was introduced is suitable as a predecessor. a large number of organic fertilizers: this is a cucumber, tomato, cabbage, etc. However, it is absolutely impossible to bring fresh organic matter under the onion!

It promotes late development, worse maturation, accumulation harmful substances, disease damage, worse keeping quality - the whole bunch of negative phenomena. It is allowed to introduce humus or semi-rotted compost in the fall before digging.

At the same time, complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are added. Nitrogen fertilizers can be fed in the spring, in the first period of growth, combining them with watering.

Onion fragrant Aprior

The landing site must be changed annually - otherwise the same onion fly, peronosporosis, bacterial and cervical rot. Use of manure and large doses ammonium nitrate negatively affects the taste of onions, contributes to the accumulation of ammonia and nitrates in it, but ... “feeds” large onions.

Overfed plants suffer from late ripening and reduced keeping quality. However, producers, especially tenants from countries South-East Asia, often sin by introducing huge doses of ammonium nitrate. When choosing a larger “remedy for seven ailments” on the market, be aware that this is not always a sign of a variety, but in most cases an excess of mineral nitrogen fertilizers with all the ensuing negative consequences.

Problem solving

The most dangerous onion diseases are peronosporosis, gray cervical and bacterial rot. You can avoid them through agricultural technology. To get started: choose more resistant varieties, for example, Borodkovsky, Boterus, Tervin.

And interspecific hybrids are genetically resistant to peronosporosis - Golden Domes, Sigma, Sputnik. Many lovers ask whether it is necessary to crush, roll, break onion leaves in order to speed up ripening? It is this technique that contributes to the fact that infection occurs.

Through fractures and wounds, the infection enters the leaf, then through the neck it penetrates into the bulb, develops - as a result, it dries or rots during storage. The onion plant, like any other living being, has a genetic code that determines the ripening algorithm without our help.

Therefore, violent fractures bring nothing but harm. The most common pest is the onion fly. The greatest harm brings when sowing seeds on the bulb.

The first flight of the fly occurs approximately in the third decade of May, when weak plants have only one true leaf. The fly lays eggs on the ground, and the hatched larvae bite into the growth point, eating away the nutrients.

What can be done about this? For example, combine sowing onions with carrots. There is an opinion that carrots repel pests. A more radical way is to treat the leaves from the spray gun with an insecticide during the first flight of the fly.

Then oviposition does not occur. And by the summer of the second generation of flies, the plants are already adults, and the larvae practically do not harm them.

Podzimny sowing

The main advantages are in saving the budget (prices for planting material are always lower in autumn) and in an earlier and better harvest (in spring, winter onions have time to absorb the first moisture, heat and take advantage of the length of the day, especially if you help it loosen). But there is a problem - the sevok needs a strictly defined size, not exceeding 15 mm (preferably closer to 10 mm).

But a very small one is also not good - it hibernates worse and is poorly formed. What are the size requirements? Small onions will not be able to shoot themselves, but larger overwintered specimens will certainly release arrows, but they themselves will not really grow. Planting time is 2 weeks before the onset of stable cold weather, when the temperature drops below 5 ° C.

Before October 15, it is absolutely impossible to land. At early dates planting may premature regrowth. Later dates threaten that the plant will not have time to take root and freeze. If the plant is rooted, this is enough, it will overwinter well.

Last year it was very warm in November, so every year it is necessary to act according to the weather.

Shallot

A characteristic feature of shallots is strong branching and the ability to get up to 30 “nests” from one planting bulb, weighing from 10 to 50 g each. After rooting and germination, the bulb forms up to 10-15 shoots, bearing 5-7 tubular, narrow leaves collected in a compact bush.

They differ in juiciness, tenderness, aroma, high nutritional value, contain mineral salts and vitamins. Green onions are usually ready for harvest in a month, and bulbs - on the 60-75th day after the start of leaf growth.

That is, 15-20 days earlier than the most early-ripening onion variety. Shallot bulbs are sharp and semi-sharp in taste, dense, cold-resistant and lie perfectly until the new harvest. Shallot refers to independent species onion family, but some researchers consider it a kind of onion.

By nature, it is a perennial plant, but it is cultivated mainly as annual crop planting bulbs. It can also propagate by seeds. Planting for early ripening bulbs is carried out in early spring.

To obtain a commercial onion, small planting material is needed - it will give a "family" from a small amount large bulbs. But if they want to get as many small bulbs as possible in the nest (for propagation or getting green onions), then they use large planting bulbs. Shallot care consists in destroying weeds, loosening, fertilizing, and if there is a lack of moisture in the soil, watering is needed.

Perennial bows for every taste

Green onion leaves serve as an excellent source of vitamins and other valuable substances that protect the human body from many dangerous diseases and surpass bulbs in their usefulness. And yet - in addition to the usual onion feather, you can grow a wide variety of onions for greens, and they should be used to the maximum!

All perennial onions, as a rule, are very winter-hardy and withstand frosts down to -50 ° C. They practically do not get sick, which means they give environmentally friendly products without the use of chemicals. Vitamin C and carotene in perennial onions are 2-3 times more than in onions.

Diversity

Bow-batun. The most common and well-known of the perennial bows. It does not form bulbs and can grow in one place for 5-6 years. It winters well, and its green leaves can be cut several times during the summer and used for salads, seasonings, drying, etc.

The yield of batun is quite high - up to 6 kg per square meter for 3-4 cuts. The most common and productive variety- Russian winter The leaves of chives are spiky in shape, like those of onion or batun, but rather miniature and thin.

Schnitt is superior to batun in yield and content ascorbic acid. And its decorative qualities - beautiful flower stalks from white to dark purple, depending on the variety - deserve special attention.

They can decorate flower beds, curbs of paths, combining business with pleasure. For perennial bows, the rest period is short, therefore late autumn and in winter they can be used for growing in protected ground and even on the windowsill. Onion-slizun - flat-leaved.

Its leaves are similar to garlic leaves - dense, juicy, high in iron and potassium, a real medicine. Well received by gardeners: whoever tasted slime salad, onion will no longer be!

It is distinguished by high productivity, winter hardiness, high decorative qualities. Varieties: Leader - with pink-red color, Charm - with almost white color of inflorescences. Fragrant onion - also flat-leaved, with high winter hardiness, Interesting feature varieties of fragrant onion Piquant and Aprior - in blooming form they smell deliciously of almonds and hyacinth, especially in the evening!

No other variety and type of onion can boast of this. And thanks to the remontant nature, the flowering of allium fragrant is stretched from July until the onset of frost.

Growing Secrets

Schnitt, batun, slizun and other perennial onions (fragrant, Altai, oblique, multi-tiered) are simple in agricultural technology. They can grow in one area up to 5-6 years, bringing highest yield green leaves from the 2nd to the 4th year.

The first to grow is a multi-tiered onion - at the end of April, then Altai and onion-batun - in early May, in mid-May - chives, and at the end of May - oblique. Later, slime and fragrant grow, which, however, retain tenderness and good taste leaves until late autumn, therefore, they are used before the onset of stable cold weather. When growing perennial onions, it is necessary to choose elevated areas of relief in order to avoid autumn and spring flooding. The soil should be light, highly fertile, neutral or slightly acidic.

Sowing seeds, planting seedlings, dividing bushes from perennial plantations - all these methods are suitable for perennial onions. Seeds are sown on a flat surface, on ridges or ridges, depending on the height of the site and soil temperature.

Before sowing, the seeds must be treated with a fungicide to disinfect from harmful microorganisms. At annual cultivation seeds are sown early in spring in 2-3 lines to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. And the crop is harvested by digging up the plant along with the roots.

When grown for more than 2 years, the leaves begin to be cut in the second year. During the season, 2-4 cuts are carried out, the last - no later than August. For earlier greens, onion plantings are covered with a film - this accelerates their growth by 10-14 days, and the greens turn out to be more tender and juicy.

When propagating by dividing the bushes, the plants are planted in May or August in an ordinary way. Care - loosening, top dressing, if necessary - watering. Starting from the second year of life, as soon as the snow melts, last year's remnants of leaves are removed and fed with 10 g / m2 of nitrogen and potash and 15 g / m2 of phosphorus fertilizers.

After each cutting of green leaves, top dressing is also carried out, combining it with watering. Tervin- mid-season, maturing, spicy taste, resistant to bacterial and cervical rot. golden- mid-early, small nested, 1-2 bulbs per nest.

Bulb of semi-sharp taste, good keeping quality. Cascade- recommended for growing from sets. Early maturing, very soft. Sevok can be from 10 to 30 mm in diameter. Kolobok- fruitful, transportable and lying.

Handsome- bulb original form and color, high taste, high content of biologically active substances. Kuchum- small nested, 1-2 bulbs per nest, mid-season. The bulb is dense, semi-sharp taste, high keeping quality.

Golden domes- small nested, 1-2 bulbs in the nest. The bulb is dense, spicy taste, high keeping quality. Highly resistant to downy mildew!

For its special taste, content useful substances Onions are widely used in cooking and traditional medicine. Gardeners strive to harvest this valuable vegetable on their plots. However, growing onion sets is not as easy as it seems. A good crop yield is facilitated by the correct watering of onions grown in open field.

What water to water onions

The main component of the onion is its head, the bulb, which requires a sufficient amount of moisture for development. If it is not enough, then the process of bulb formation will stop, which will lead to crop failure. Therefore, periodically the onion needs watering.

Warm water should be used for it, having a temperature in the range of 16-18 ° C. Water of this temperature can be obtained if a storage tank (barrel) is installed on the territory of the site. Liquid can be poured into it with a hose from a water pipe or a bucket from a well. Water is left in a barrel for 1-2 days to warm up in the sun, then it can be used for irrigation.

The water in the barrel is heated by the sun and used for irrigation.

The temperature of the water in the barrel will be about the same as the temperature environment near the bulbs, and they will not be stressed due to sudden temperature changes. Cold liquid causes damage vegetable crop various fungi and bacteria, for example, downy mildew.

Watering mode for onions

Onion sets are usually planted in early May. During the period of growth of the green mass of the onion after it is planted in open ground, it is necessary to ensure that the soil on the ridge is always moist and does not dry out.

Onions need moist soil due to their shallow root system.

The lack of moisture leads to the fact that onions, like wild ones, will grow bitter and small. Abundant watering will cause the vegetable to rot.

Soil moisture can be checked with a thin wooden stick, rays. For this purpose, it is stuck into the ground to a depth of about 10 cm, then the stick is pulled out. If particles of soil remain on it, then the earth is wet, but when there is not enough moisture, the stick will remain dry.

Undoubtedly, the intensity of irrigation is influenced by the climate in which the crop is grown. In addition, you should know that at different stages of growth, the requirements of onions for soil moisture are not the same.

On the different stages onion development needs an unequal degree of humidity

The plant needs moisture very much:

• the first 2 weeks after planting;
• when shoots appear, for 2-3 weeks after that, since during such a period the root system begins to actively grow and develop.

However, it must be remembered that watering at both stages needs moderate.

Table: watering onions during the growing season

When the weather after planting the onion is rainy, natural precipitation may be enough for it. He will not need additional watering. The color of its feathers can tell about a glut of moisture, which instead of green will acquire a pale green color, become watery. The lack of moisture can be judged by appearance feathers: they will turn yellow, become flatter, and the tips will dry out.

Yellowing and drying feather tips signal a lack of moisture.

To avoid burns from the bright sun, onions should be watered in the morning or evening hours.

In dry weather, watering is increased up to 2 times instead of one, as indicated in the table.

When to stop watering

2-3 weeks before harvesting, the vegetable crop is no longer watered. At the time when the onion feathers begin to fall to the ground, it can be concluded that the heads have developed and fully matured. Usually such a moment comes 2 months after planting the seedlings. Watering at this time will adversely affect the quality of the vegetable.

2-3 weeks before the onion finally lies on the ground, watering is stopped.

We had to grow both yellow and red onion sets for a long time. Knowing that onions do not like excessive moisture and its lack, we almost always got a good harvest of this vegetable crop. Watering was done about once a week. When the onion lay down, it was not watered at all. Water for irrigation was taken from a barrel.

Video: about the correct watering of onions

If you follow the requirements for watering, its frequency, then a plentiful harvest of large and beautiful onions will serve as a reward for every gardener for his work.

Onion is an unpretentious plant, however, in order to get a good harvest, the gardener needs to follow a few simple rules for watering and caring.

Watering and caring for onions in spring

• Before planting onions, pour plenty of water over the prepared bed. After planting, the bed should dry out a little.
• In spring, young onion heads need more moisture than in summer, so you should water your onion plants about once every 4-5 days.
• Try to make the water temperature for irrigation about + 14-18. If watered with warmer water in combination with hot weather, there is a risk of putrefactive diseases.
• You can add a useful preparation to the water for irrigation, for example, Energen, Epin, or make a solution with rotted manure - this way you will stimulate the growth and development of heads and feathers, and the yield of onions will increase.

If the spring is rainy and the winter was snowy, then you don’t need to water the onions at all - an excess of moisture can cause the bulbs to rot.

How often to water onions in June-August

• In June, onions need less moisture than in spring. Water about once every 7-10 days.
• For each square meter use 10-12 liters of water. Do the same watering in the first half of July.
• At the end of July, water also once every 7-10 days, but use half the water per square meter - 5-6 liters per meter, otherwise the bulbs and feathers will not be stored well.
• Stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvest, when creases appear on the feathers.

• Onions do not tolerate drought and stagnant water - always watch the weather for the last week before watering. If it rained all week, you should not water the onions.
• If the tips of the onion turn yellow, this is the first sign of a lack of moisture.
• Watering can be done at the root, drip or sprinkling. When sprinkling, choose a watering can with the smallest holes so as not to damage the feather.
• The best time to water is early morning.
• Optimum temperature water for irrigation - + 14-18 degrees. Warmer water can cause the bulbs to rot.

Follow these simple watering rules and you will always have a great onion crop!

Articles

It is no secret that irrigation options vary, depending on the purpose for which the crop was planted. It is for this reason that in this article we will discuss not only the standard rules for outdoor irrigation, but also some of the subtleties associated with the changeability of the weather and temperature fluctuations.

When to start watering?

Let's start with a little background that will help you vary further, depending on time and climatic conditions.

In this case, we do not need rapid growth, since in an instant they will destroy all the green mass, and the bulb itself will get frostbite and die. Therefore, when planting in late autumn, it must be immersed in dry soil. Any watering is prohibited.

Important! Do not be afraid of rare rains in late autumn. They won't be enough to awaken the bow.

As for the question of whether it is necessary to water after planting, there are no additional subtleties, the landing is also carried out in moist soil, after which it is watered.

Irrigation Features

Early growth

At the beginning of growth, as mentioned above, the culture needs a lot of moisture, but the moisture must be "special".

Watering is desirable warm water , which before this is a little more settled. On warm days tap water it is enough to type in a large basin or vat so that it warms up in the sun for a couple of hours, and the existing sediment sinks to the bottom.

Next, we will answer the question of how often to water onions in the open field. It all depends on the weather. If there is no rain for weeks, and the crop receives moisture exclusively from your watering, then you need to pour in water at least 2 times a week. On average, about 10 liters are used per square.

Important! The ingress of moisture into the space between the leaves can lead to rotting of the bulb.

But if it rains several times a week, then the process is slightly more complicated. The fact is that a little rain can only slightly wet upper layer soil, and the roots will remain without moisture. For this reason, we need to check for moisture in the following way: we take a flat stick or iron rod / wire, measure 10 cm on it and stick it in next to the bow. Let's take it out and have a look. If at a depth of 7-10 cm the soil stuck to our measuring "device", then additional watering is not required. If nothing sticks to the wire or stick, then it is better to carry out additional watering.
Now, as regards watering time. Everything must be done early in the morning or late in the evening, as drops of moisture that have fallen on the feathers can lead to a burn.

Pay attention to the irrigation system. If you use when filling the aisles with water, then make sure that the water pressure is negligible, otherwise it will wash the ground and expose the bulbs. After such watering, the culture will begin to rot, or be affected by pests. You can use a watering can or. The second option would be, in case of large areas.

Let's say a few words about how pour onions on a feather.

In principle, there are no differences, since onions during the period of gaining green mass, first of all, need moisture. It is enough to water the culture with warm clean water and monitor the soil moisture. Every week, a complex (,) is added with water and the height of the feathers is monitored. As soon as they reach 30-40 cm, they are cut.

When ripe

When ripening, the amount of moisture should be gradually reduced, otherwise the shelf life and taste qualities get worse. For this reason, 2 months after planting, the intensity of irrigation decreases, depending on the planted variety.

If you are sure that the bulb has scored maximum weight, then start preparing it for collection. You can determine a ripe onion by recumbent thick feathers.
As regards the collection green onion, then it continues to be watered up to . Only a few days before watering is stopped so that the feathers are not covered with dirt.

Before the harvest

Behind a week before harvest, you need to stop any irrigation. Of course, you cannot influence the weather in any way, so coordinate the moment of collection with the "predictions" of weather forecasters. The crop must be extracted from dry land, otherwise the drying process will be protracted, and the bulbs themselves, in the future, will be worse.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the onions do not ripen at the same time, so if you are going to harvest the entire crop in a day, you will need to sort the products and use those bulbs that are not fully ripe for cooking. It is also important to remove damaged or rotten onions, otherwise such specimens will spoil a good part of the entire production.

How and why to water the onion with saline

In conclusion, let's talk about what watering with saline will give us.

Watering the onion with salt water is necessary in order to rid it of a pest that causes yellow spots on the leaves -. This pest eats onion roots, thereby reducing the possible area for absorption of moisture and nutrients. As a result, the culture dries even with excessive watering.

Important! saline solution does not affect the taste and ripening speed of the bulbs.

Watering with salt water is carried out 3 times. The first - when the feathers reach a length of 5-7 cm. The second and third - every 10 days.

Although the onion has edible leaves (ground part) and bulb (underground part), it is grown mainly to produce bulbs (turnips). The yield and quality of onions largely depends on proper care during cultivation. During this period, onions need proper watering, loosening, weed control, diseases, pests and, possibly, in top dressing.

How to water onions.

Onions make high demands on soil moisture, especially during germination and bulb formation. Therefore, in dry weather it must be watered. It is good to do this before and after weeding. It is better to water the onion in the furrows made between its rows. Such watering promotes rapid maturation and better storage Luke. If for some reason you have to water the onion from above, then do it through the grid of the watering can so that the young onion is not exposed with a strong stream of water. If necessary, watering is combined with feeding onions. You can determine when to water the onion with your finger. If the soil at the level of the nail immersed in it has not dried out, then watering should be delayed. If the soil is dry, the onion should be watered. Water the onion so that the water penetrates to the depth of its roots. A month and a half before the expected harvest, usually from mid-June, onion watering is stopped.

How to care for onions.

Regular weeding, loosening and top dressing help to achieve good results. weeds can deprive you of the harvest by 10%, so they must be removed in a timely manner. Simultaneously with weeding, loosening of the soil is carried out, which is very important for the formation of bulbs. On loose soils, the bulbs are larger, better stored, and their number increases in multi-celled varieties. When loosening, it is not necessary to hill the bulbs. otherwise they will be stretched out.

If the soil under the onion was well seasoned when planting, top dressing bow may not be required. If at proper care the leaves of the onion become smaller, their yellowing and wilting of the tips are observed, which means that the onion suffers from a lack of nutrients. In this case, it should be fed with mineral fertilizers, for example, Fertik's soluble fertilizer, or a solution of ammonium nitrate (10 g) and potassium salt (15 g per bucket of water) per square meter of planting. From organic fertilizers, the use of ash is allowed, it will replace potassium salt.

Diseases and pests of onions. How to fight?

Onion diseases and pests can reduce the yield, therefore, when growing, prevention and control measures should be observed. The most common cultural disease is peronosporosis, or false powdery mildew . This fungal disease especially often affects onions in cold and damp times. At first, the mycelium settles on the leaves in the form of light spots, which is why later the leaves become covered with a gray coating, turn yellow and fade. Later, the disease spreads to onion arrows, bulbs and is transmitted during subsequent crops and plantings. Therefore, when buying a sevka, it must be decontaminated, that is, kept for 8 hours at a temperature of + 40-42 ° C. When growing, to prevent damage to the leaves, preventive spraying of the leaves with a solution of phytosporin (10 g per 5 l of water) is carried out. When plants are damaged, they are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or 0.5% copper oxychloride. In July, such spraying is carried out to prevent peronosporosis with an interval of 2 weeks in dry weather, and 1 week in rainy weather. 10 days before harvesting, processing is stopped. It is impossible to cut greens for food after such treatments. The exception is preventive treatment with phytosporin.

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Neck (gray) rot affects the bulbs during their storage. The disease arises during the growing season, but it is not possible to identify it during harvesting. The manifestation of the disease is observed during storage. The bulb near the neck becomes soft, the juicy scales darken, a gray coating appears under the dry scales. The disease spreads to neighboring bulbs, especially when stored in damp and warm rooms. Prevention of the disease - growing well-ripened onions, which are weakly affected by the disease, as well as good preparation onions for storage (drying) and right conditions storage.

Of the pests, the main danger is onion fly . It is slightly smaller than an ordinary fly and lays its eggs near the bulb or on its dry scales. The resulting larvae feed on the bulb, causing the onion to turn yellow and dry out. For prevention, the soil around the onion is dusted with tobacco dust or sprinkled with salt 100 g per square meter. m. In rainy weather, the salt dissolves itself, in dry weather, the soil is watered with a solution. Affected plants are removed from the site and burned.