How to make a grass bed. How to make warm beds in spring: instructions

To create warm (or high) beds. At that time it was the best instruction.

That's what I thought...

Due to the fact that at that time I did not understand the meaning of all actions, but was guided only by logic and a simple rule - we extract the earth, fill half of the pit with a tree, branches, grass, etc., then in reverse order we fill in the earth and get a bonus - a new the bed turns out to be a slide (and therefore high).

Just? Yes. But very, very wrong.

And before moving on to the updated step-by-step instructions in pictures, I will touch on the topic a little - "Why you need to do this and only this way."

A bit of philosophy about warm beds

The meaning of all your procedures is as follows:

By bringing in branches, logs, grass, straw, etc., you create, as it were, an “organic battery”. The organic matter covered with earth rots longer and simultaneously releases heat (2-3 degrees). In other words, you will make a bed now, and organic reserves will last for many, many years.
In the upper layer of the earth there are most of the roots of weeds - the task is to remove them deeper so that they do not have the opportunity to germinate.
The most fertile layer of soil should remain on top

Another important point is that the earth, after falling asleep in a dug hole, will settle. Therefore, you need to do at least 2 important things:

Minimize the settling process (watering and compacting, as an option)
Under the upper fertile layer there should be no branches or large grass residues (such as corn). The only thing that is allowed is the so-called. "pillow" from, for example, a layer of straw or fallen leaves.

Now, in general terms, I will give the procedure.

How to make a warm bed with your own hands

markup

This was the first thing I did - first on paper, and then in a graphics program:

By the way, on the left side of the blog (in the left sidebar) I always display my “garden”, as well as which beds I have already made, and which ones I will only do. This approach is very motivating!

After the markup on paper is ready, transfer it to the site.

Materials for warm beds

There is no universal recipe for making warm beds. Someone simply pours earth and overlays it with logs so that the earth does not roll. And someone uses metal corners and attaches oak slats to them. It all depends on your capabilities.

Personally, I use pine boards 2cm thick and 10cm wide (about 3m long) in my work. For pegs, I use the same boards, but 7-8 cm wide, which I cut into blanks 60-70 cm long and NECESSARILY I sharpen with an axe.

When my boards are ready, I transfer them to the site and start assembling the boxes for future beds - from the corner and further in a circle:

Assembling a box for a warm bed

Assembling a warm box for a garden bed

I drive the pegs 30 cm into the ground, and leave 40 cm on top, so that in the future it would be easy to attach the next row of boards.

Digging a hole for warm beds

When the box is ready, you can start digging the earth.

I tried to dig first, and then put the boxes. Tried vice versa as well. And the second way (first the box, and then the pit) I like more, because. you can immediately see the boundaries of the future beds and you can dig a hole close to the boards (only where the pegs need to retreat a little).

I usually dig a hole 40 cm deep (2 spade bayonets), but with one very important rule - each layer of earth lies separately (i.e. not in a mound one on top of the other).

This is done with the aim that when filling the pit, you can put the most fertile soil on top, and put the low-fertility or with weed roots into the very bottom of the pit.

First we remove the sod:

Then the middle layer of the earth:

And behind it is a deep layer of earth:

Previously, I also practiced this method, when the earth is not digging for the entire width of the bed, but only in the middle:

Although there will be less work, but I strongly DO NOT RECOMMEND to do so, because in the future, in the place where the former land remained:

Everything will grow much worse (because the roots of plants will not be able to “break through” dense soil with sod)
In these places, weeds will delight you for a long time, the roots of which you have safely left in this “stub” of the earth. Most likely, in order to get rid of them, you will have to dig up these strips of land.

Filling a warm bed

Now we begin to fill our warm bed.

On the bottom, I usually lay rough materials - rotten logs, large branches, stumps, etc. (you can throw rusty metal products):

Since it is between these boards that there will be the most gaps, in the future they will give a greater shrinkage of the earth. Here is an example of when at the beginning of the season the garden bed was “with a hill”, and at the end even cracks appeared under the boards (i.e., the poured earth was equal to the general level of the earth):

To prevent this from happening, you need to fill all these gaps with earth. And since this is the very bottom of the pit, you can take either barren land, or the top layer with turf (for reinsurance, it can be turned upside down):

Another obligatory rule is that each layer must be thoroughly shed with water so that the earth is compacted and settled as much as possible.

Then you can put already small material - branches, leaves, straw. By the way, I generally recommend putting the latter without sparing - it will be a kind of pillow under the last, fertile layer:

If possible, you can sprinkle this layer with ashes, and also pour over with a suitable organic infusion (I use with the addition of EM preparations):

Now it remains to fill in the remaining land, which is the most fertile, because. were extracted almost from the very top:

The final chord is the shelter of the resulting bed of mulch (in this case, straw):

If such a bed is already made in the fall, you can moisten it well and sow some kind of green manure, for example, Winter Rabs:

He will just have time to ascend by the fall, after which it will be possible to cut it off and in this form "poison" the garden bed for the winter.

Making warm beds

In principle, I have told and shown you the most important thing. It is possible that next year I will still learn something new, which will be the reason for writing a new article - so as not to miss it.

If you have something to add or suggest - write in the comments, it will be useful to everyone.

Recently, many summer residents have been arranging so-called “warm beds” in their plots - high rectangular structures filled with compost, branches, leaves and fertile soil. In the spring, rod arcs are installed above their sides, and the film is stretched. This design allows you to plant seedlings 2-4 weeks earlier than usual. They usually do it in the fall. However, if desired, you can arrange them in the spring. The main thing is not to use fresh manure as a lining layer. So, let's see how to make warm beds in the spring.

Material selection

The sides of such ridges are most often made of edged, fairly thick (20 mm) boards. This material does not conduct heat well and is very easy to process. Sometimes this material is also used for boards, which is more durable than wood, but at the same time retains heat worse. In addition, when using it, it is imperative to make a rigid frame from a thin profile pipe. Otherwise, when weeding or planting seedlings, you can simply cut yourself on the sharp edges of the sides. Both wood and slate have, therefore, both their advantages and disadvantages. From what kind of material to make the sides - it is up to the owners of the site to decide. Sometimes a warm bed is also made using more solid elements. For example, brick or stone. This is the most durable and reliable option. However, stone or brick beds will cost, of course, very expensive.

In the case of using slate or wood to support the sides, it will also be necessary to prepare a profile pipe. Arcs can be made from a metal rod with a diameter of 8 mm or from PVC pipes. The film for warm beds is used standard technical polyethylene or designed for greenhouses.

Production of wooden boards

The question of how to make warm beds in the spring comes down, among other things, to choosing the right size. The height of the sides of this design is usually 40 cm. In this case, the roots of the plants will receive enough heat. Yes, and it will be more convenient to process the bed. Experienced gardeners do not recommend making the width more than 80 cm. The optimal parameter is 60 cm. The length of the frame can be any.

It is better to collect beds in the spring, when the garden is still too damp, not on the spot, but in a workshop or somewhere in the yard, in a dry place. Wooden sides are made as follows:

The ends of the beds are assembled. They are made from pieces of a 60 cm board. Two corner pieces from a profile pipe are nailed to each from both edges. In this way, the ends of the boards are made for all the beds.
Next, the segments in increments of about 2 meters are screwed to the future long sides.
Then the latter are attached to the corner profile pipes on the end elements.
The resulting structures are transferred to the garden, installed in the right place and leveled. It is not necessary to dig the ground under the frame or even remove the sod.

The device of a warm bed is continued in the spring by pulling together the opposite profiles of the sides with a rod (in pairs). This will give the structure rigidity. If this is not done, the bed will simply open. In particular, carrots and other root crops are strongly "bred" on the sides.

How to bend a rod correctly

How to make a warm bed in spring is not a question for you now. In order for the seedlings to feel even better in it, the structure in April-May, before the establishment of stable warm weather, will need to be covered with a film. It is stretched on arcs, which can also be made independently. To make such supports neat, you should first make a simple template. To do this, an arc of the required radius and length is drawn on a piece of plywood. Further, along the resulting contour, nails are stuffed (up to half). At the ends of the arc, they should be hammered in two at the same level. Then each rod is simply bent over the nails.

How to make slate sides

In this case, the frame is pre-assembled from a profile pipe. Fastening is usually done with bolts. If the farm has the appropriate equipment, the frame can be welded. The pipe should be painted before fixing the slate.

Since the beds made of this material are very heavy, it is better to transfer the welded frames and install them in the chosen place in the garden. Further, the slate itself is attached to the structural elements (from inside the frame). Fixation in this case is also made with bolts.

How to fill a garden

So, we have figured out how to make warm beds in the spring. Now let's see what you need to fill them with to get the best effect of heating the roots of plants. First of all, the beds should be properly positioned. Usually finished frames are placed in the direction from north to south. So the plants will be illuminated longer: in the morning from the east side, in the afternoon - from above and in the evening - from the west. Warm beds are not installed in the shade. Otherwise, a lot of nitrates are formed in the soil in the first year.

Warm beds are filled (according to the rules of composting) in layers in the following order:

Drainage is arranged from branches, rotten boards, logs, etc. First, large fractions are laid, then smaller ones.
Organic matter is laid on the drainage. When laying, carbon (dry foliage, paper, old rags, chopped sunflower stalks) and nitrogenous layers (tops, grass, food waste, rotted manure, etc.) should be alternated. To speed up the decomposition process, it is worth pouring organics with special biological preparations. At the last stage, it should be tamped.

A week later, after the bed warms up well, garden soil is poured into it. In order for the roots of the plants not to burn out, its layer should be at least 25-30 cm. On this, the device of a warm bed in the spring can be considered finished. All other actions can only be aimed at improving its performance.

How to make a greenhouse

Part of one of the warm beds can be covered with a small mini-greenhouse. As a frame for such a design, it is allowed to use a painted metal rod, timber or PVC pipes. The walls, door, window and roof are usually made of polycarbonate. Knocking down the frame of the desired shape will not be difficult. When attaching polycarbonate, certain rules must be observed. This material is able to expand with an increase / decrease in air temperature. Therefore, it should be fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers. Holes for them are drilled a little larger than the rods of diameter. The device of a warm bed with a greenhouse will allow you to plant seedlings even earlier. It will take a little time to make it.

Structures in the greenhouse

Usually warm beds are arranged right in the open air. However, you can also make them in a greenhouse already installed in the garden. Such structures are assembled from the same materials. The question of how to make warm beds in the spring in a greenhouse is not technologically complicated at all. The method of their manufacture entirely and completely repeats the one discussed above. The only thing is that the beds in this case need to be made not too high (20 cm).

The device of a warm bed in the greenhouse will help to get an even earlier harvest. However, since the air temperature inside this room will be higher than outside, it is important to ensure that the roots do not overheat. At a soil temperature of 30-45 degrees, plant growth slows down. It is also worth arranging drip irrigation in the beds.

What plants and how to plant

Since a lot of nitrogen accumulates in the soil of such beds in the first two years, it is not recommended to plant nitrate-accumulating crops during this period. These include greens (dill, onion, lettuce, spinach, etc.), beets and radishes. In the first year, it is best to plant pumpkin, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants on a warm bed, that is, plants that require a high content of nutrients in the soil. In the second year, cabbage, celery or lettuce are usually planted in their place.

Many summer residents advise, after harvesting early crops, to sow warm beds with green manure. This will allow you to replenish the stock. In addition, the soil prepared in this way does not require digging in the spring. All that needs to be done is to deepen the remains of dead green manure by loosening. How to make warm beds in the spring (photos of such structures can be seen on the page), as well as how to plant seedlings on them, you now know. What else needs to be done to facilitate the care of crops and accelerate the ripening of the crop? Read about it below.

Mulching

Most often, sawdust or straw is used for this purpose. It would be very good to close the soil under the plants also with mowed dried grass. First, it should be chopped with a hatchet. Soil microorganisms begin to process the grass from the place of the cut. Therefore, such a litter will decompose faster, while releasing the necessary for garden crops. Mulching on warm beds, among other things, allows the soil to retain moisture longer. Also, a layer of organic matter or a film will prevent the growth of weeds all summer. And this, in turn, will facilitate the care of plants.

flowerbeds

How to make warm beds in the spring, you now know. However, what if there is no material or time for their manufacture, but you want to plant tomatoes early? In this case, you can try to build warm flower beds. Their difference from the beds is primarily a smaller size. As bumpers, you can use, for example, old car tires, set in three rows. Filling in this case is done in the same way. In the middle is to stick a stake or rod. They will support the film in the spring.

Of course, many crops on such flower beds will not fit. But it is quite possible to grow several tomato bushes, cucumbers, onions, pumpkins or zucchini on them.

As you can see, the question of how to make a warm garden bed in spring with your own hands is not particularly difficult. In the presence of high-quality material and skillful hands, finished designs will turn out to be comfortable, reliable and will last a long time. Have a good harvest!

Time is moving inexorably towards autumn, which means it's time to think not only about harvesting and harvesting, but also about building warm beds for the next season. In the spring, they will be an excellent help: due to the heat that the “stuffing” of such a bed gives off, comfortable conditions are created for early sowing and planting heat-loving vegetables. So let's get started...

In high wooden boxes you can equip warm beds

There are options?

In fact, there are many options for arranging a warm garden bed. For example, you can do it buried. In this case, the sod is removed at the chosen place and a trench is dug, into which organic raw materials are then laid. Such a bed only slightly rises above the main level of the soil or is located flush with it.

It is clear that in areas where meltwater stagnates in spring or groundwater is located close to the surface, this option cannot be used. But if you choose a dry place that is not flooded even by prolonged downpours, this method of arrangement will save you money (materials for building sides are not needed), time and effort (a deep-seated bed will need watering less often than a raised one).

Bed-box. Photo from svoimi-rykami.ru

Another variant - raised warm bed. An ideal solution for areas suffering from spring flooding and excess moisture during the season. In this case, having removed the top layer of turf (and someone believes that this procedure is also a waste of energy: the grass still has no chance), they install a fence from any material at hand and fill the resulting box. We have already talked about how and from what it is possible to build, so we are moving on.

One of the varieties of raised warm beds is a structure in the form elongated hill. In this case, the sides are not made, and the edges of the beds are rounded. How it looks, you can clearly see in the picture that I found on the Internet:

It is believed that a hill-bed, in addition to other advantages and benefits, allows you to increase the usable area, because for crops its entire surface is used, which is noticeably larger than the base of such a ridge.

matter of principle

In fact, no matter what form we give to a warm garden bed, the principle of its construction remains unchanged, so the main thing is to understand it, and then you can improvise at your discretion.

A warm bed is essentially a kind of “layer cake” stuffed with heterogeneous organic matter. Due to the gradual decomposition of this raw material, on the one hand, plant nutrition is provided, and on the other hand, soil heating (as we remember, a significant amount of heat is released during the decomposition of organic residues).

In terms of technology a warm bed is a slightly modified compost heap. In both cases, in order for the processing of the deposited waste to proceed correctly, molds, unpleasant odors, and pathogens do not multiply, it is important to keep the raw materials moist and not interfere with air exchange.

Hence the first important rules:

large, coarse, long-rotting waste is laid at the base of the bed: branches, strong stems of plants (corn, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke), wood trimmings and the like - they will serve as drainage and provide air flow; the layer is loose, about 40 - 45 cm high;
before laying each next layer, the previous one is thoroughly watered; during the season, a warm bed needs watering more often than a regular one - its “stuffing” should not dry out;
to fill the beds use only the waste of healthy plants, not affected by pests and diseases, without seeds.

What to do next is clearly seen in the following diagram:

Scheme of filling a warm bed. Image from small-village.com

Consistently, in layers, we put heterogeneous raw materials into a box or trench. I repeat: this scheme is only an illustration of the principle, it is not at all necessary to repeat the layers shown exactly - use what is at hand. For example, here's another option:

More often, plant residues are laid on top of coarse wood waste: vegetable tops, mowed weeds, peelings, flower stems, and so on. If the sod was removed, it is also laid inside the beds, placing the grass down. Here it is important that the plant mass does not stick together, blocking access to air, therefore, if the raw material is juicy, wet, it is interbedded with straw or chopped branches of shrubs.

Next, it would be nice to lay a layer of fallen leaves, ideally 15 centimeters thick. But the ideal is most often unattainable (unless you have adult deciduous trees growing near the site that can provide valuable raw materials in abundance). The leaves are tamped and watered, and rotted manure or mature compost is placed on top.

The top layer (usually 15-20 cm thick) is ordinary garden or turf soil, often mixed with compost.

If you were engaged in arranging a warm garden bed with your own hands in early autumn, it is advisable cover it with black film immediately upon completion of work - this way you will save your work from the ubiquitous seeds of weeds, which are perfectly carried by the wind and will sprout with pleasure on carefully prepared fertile soil.

Another important nuance: the “stuffing” of a warm bed is a cozy haven for rodents. So that they do not settle in you for the winter, and next year they do not encroach on the harvest, the bottom of the structure is desirable cover with fine-mesh metal mesh.

What to plant?

A warm bed, as a rule, is used 3-4 years in a row, but it will bring maximum benefit only if planting is planned correctly.

1 year: the bed is saturated with nutrients, and the intensive decomposition of organic raw materials gives a lot of heat. These are ideal conditions for pumpkins, zucchini and cucumber- they are worth planting.

2nd year: a lot of food; can be planted again cucumbers and zucchini, will feel good in the garden and cabbage, tomatoes. Strongly Not recommended in the first two years, sow vegetable crops in a warm bed that tend to accumulate nitrates: beets and chard, radishes, lettuce.

3 year: enough food supplies for cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, beans; can be planted potato, sow beets, carrots, salad crops.

4 year: without additional dressings in the garden, only crops that are undemanding to nutrition will grow well. Can be grown greens, peas.

By this time, the soil will noticeably settle, and the supply of nutrients is almost completely exhausted, but the remaining contents can be added to garden and garden soil to improve its structure. And in the vacant place to lay a new warm bed.

This year I'm going to make a raised warm bed especially for early cucumbers. It will be interesting to know the experience of those who have been using such facilities for a long time - are you satisfied with the results?

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Each person is pleased to eat delicious fruits and vegetables that have been grown with their own hands. It is for this reason that the owners of small plots of land in the country are constantly striving to find a new and optimal solution in order to increase productivity. A warm bed is one of the effective options. It can be built with your own hands at no special cost.

The device of warm beds

At its core, this design is a layer cake. Fertilizers of organic origin act as the filling. When these elements decompose, the effect on the seeds is twofold. They germinate faster, and there is enough impregnation for plants for the next few years.

Important rules for organizing a warm bed:

For laying the bottom layer, it is recommended to use large and coarse waste, which, in order to rot, needs more time. It can be wood chips, corn stalks, branches.
The next layer is made up of plant residues. For example, flower stems or vegetable peelings. Turf can also be used, but it should be placed exclusively with the grass down.
For the next layer, you may need some materials that are on the farm. These are simple newspapers, ash or special chemical fertilizers.
Here we come to the final layer. It is preferable to decorate it with leaves. And the thicker the layer, the better.

How to make a bed for growing fruits and vegetables with your own hands?

The procedure for creating a warm bed is simple, you can even show imagination when arranging it. Thus, you will get not only a fruitful design, but also attractive in appearance.

Main stages:

The first thing to do is to dig a trench. The depth is determined in advance, but you need to dig with a margin of at least 10 centimeters.
Prepare the boards and use them to make a special box. This is recommended if you want your garden bed to be slightly raised.
A metal mesh with small cells is laid at the bottom. This element is necessary to protect the attacks of rodents.
For peat soil, a cotton fabric is laid on top of the mesh. Be sure to first soak it with a medium solution of potassium permanganate. For loamy soil, drainage from stone, broken brick or sand can be used. The layer is laid with a thickness of at least 15 centimeters.
Lay all layers sequentially (the order was described above). To prevent the whole mass from sticking together, it is recommended to alternate dry materials with wet residues.
Then everything is covered with chalk or wood ash.
We fill the bed with earth and put a layer of leaves on top, pour everything with warm water. For each square meter, the recommended amount of liquid is approximately 7-8 buckets.
Next, we lay rotted manure or, for example, mature compost.

A warm bed for cucumbers or other vegetables is ready. As you can see, everything is quite simple, you just need to devote a little time to this lesson.

How to plant a garden bed correctly?

In order to protect yourself from possible problems during planting, check out the useful tips below, which are recommended for every summer resident. Your warm bed for cucumbers and other vegetables will turn out to be correct, fruitful and unique.

Helpful Hints:

It is necessary to make a small strip in the middle, which will serve as a separator. This will help the water to go straight into the holes during irrigation.
Large holes are dug on the sides (depth is 30 centimeters). So that the diameter is the same, landing pits can be easily made using a regular three-liter jar.
A warm bed for cucumbers in the spring is made out very quickly. It is enough to put 4 seeds in each hole.
Fill the holes and fill them with water.
It is recommended to cover the bed tightly with a transparent film.

How to make a warm bed for cucumbers if it has been raining outside for several days? In no case do not abandon the work you have begun, just cover your seedlings with a few more layers of transparent film. Believe me, no rain will interfere with them.

What are warm beds?

Summer residents have repeatedly wondered how to make a warm cucumber bed so that it is not only functional, but also fits into the overall landscape design. Three design options were devised:

Deep garden. A place is selected where the structure will be made, and a ditch is dug. The depth can reach more than half a meter. After that, a filling of fertilizers of organic origin is laid, then it is covered with fertile soil. It turns out that the surface of your beds will be below the ground. Looks pretty good too.
High garden. A box of the desired height is installed on the earthen surface. It can be made from any materials that you have at hand. The box is filled with plant debris, and soil is already poured on top. The main advantage of this design is that it will be very easy to work on it. You will not need to constantly bend down, and this will save you from back pain.
A warm bed is made in the spring, as this is the most optimal time. You can make a design in the form of a hill. Biofuel made from plant organics is laid inside. It has been repeatedly proven that this option gives a large landing area.

What to plant in the beds?

Depending on how long you intend to use your garden, the types of crops to plant will also vary. For example, let's write a standard set designed for an operational period of 4 years:

A warm bed for cucumbers in the spring is the best option. At the first stage of using the soil, it is ideal for this crop. At this time, the decomposition process is very intensive, and a large amount of heat is released as a result. You can also plant a pumpkin or zucchini.
In the second year, a fairly large amount of nutrients still remain in the soil. Such crops as tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers or zucchini will receive rapid and full development.
In the third year, there are already much fewer food supplies left. But this amount is quite enough for the germination of crops such as beans, beets, potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, peppers.
So the last, fourth year has come. Nutrient supply is almost completely exhausted. But you can use your garden for growing peas and greens.

In the first two years of operation of the structure, in no case should crops that contribute to the accumulation of nitrates be used. This number includes lettuce, radish, chard.

Main design advantages

Making warm beds in the spring with your own hands at a summer cottage is not only easy, but also pleasant. Already next year you will be able to reap the fruits of your work - fresh vegetables grown with love.

Positive aspects of the building:

The most favorable microclimate is created for plants. This gives you the opportunity to get a great crop of vegetables earlier than others. Moreover, seedlings will turn out good and without the use of manure.
Such beds do not require special care. You will not need to constantly feed the soil with fertilizers, the harvest will be impressive without it.
All plant debris that you previously took to a landfill or burned can now be put to good use. After all, you fall asleep in your garden, in the process of its creation.
The organic filling of your beds during operation will turn into humus. It is characterized by high fertile properties, which will give you the opportunity to use it on other beds.
Easy care during operation. Especially if you decide to make the bed elevated and install a box.
Possibility of use for at least four years.

Design flaws

The construction requires a large investment of time and financial resources (for the purchase of material for fences). Although, if you use the garden bed for several years, then the harvest will pay off all your efforts.
A warm bed for cucumbers dries pretty quickly, so you need to constantly monitor the soil and water it in time.
Rodent invasion. Mice are very fond of digging in such earth and nibbling vegetables. You can take all measures to protect against them, but this does not give an absolute guarantee. Therefore, if one day you notice a bitten cucumber, you should not be surprised.

Despite all the shortcomings, warm beds are simply very popular among summer residents. After all, it is very convenient to have fresh vegetables in your garden that were grown with your own hands.

Greenhouse or fresh air?

Where is the best place to place a garden bed? This is another relevant question. Warm beds in a greenhouse, for example, are most suitable for growing crops such as radishes and cucumbers. Tomatoes will also grow better than at home.

In the fresh air, an excellent harvest of the same cucumbers and cabbage is obtained. It is impossible to say for sure where it is better to place the structure. It depends on your capabilities and on what crops you plan to grow.

Heated beds with electric cable

A warm bed constantly needs to be heated. One of the best options is an electric cable. Its advantage is that you can always control the ground temperature with high precision and adjust it if necessary.

It is best to lay such a cable on geotextile. This is a coating that perfectly passes water, but at the same time holds the soil. Thus, the weeds will rot, and this will save you from unnecessary work. It is desirable that the cable is located as deep as possible in the ground. Where mice can't get through. Moles, too, can not be afraid, because they simply do not gnaw such materials. The optimal depth is approximately 40 centimeters.

Heating beds with pipes

Warm beds in a greenhouse are best heated by pipes. They need to be held underground and put on hot water. The cooled liquid will go outside, then back into the boiler for heating. It is very comfortable. In terms of price category, pipes made of plastic will be the most optimal. And the boiler must be taken gas - it is compact and easy to use.

natural heating

How to make a warm bed in spring in such a way as to forget about pipes and electricity for heating? Everything is quite simple, but it takes time to arrange the structure.

The first thing to take care of is that the water does not leave the soil anywhere. It will be needed to highlight the temperature and the process of decay. In the event that the soil is peaty, then it is recommended to lay an old fabric at the very bottom and pour it with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Next, lay a layer of the remains of plant origin. If warm beds are made in the spring with your own hands, it will not be difficult for you to collect them. An excellent option would be ordinary leaves.
For the third layer, you will need a mixture of humus, peat, ash, potassium sulfate and zinc sulfate. Making it yourself will be a little problematic, but you can purchase it at any specialized store.
Then the bed is watered with warm water and immediately covered with a dense film. You can't open it for a few weeks. Only then can the film be removed, slightly moisten the soil again and start sowing.

A well prepared in the manner described above will be a small greenhouse. Seeds in it will be not only wet, but also warm. They will quickly swell and begin to hatch.

Use of compost

How to make a warm bed in spring so that the soil has enough necessary fertilizers? The modern market can offer summer residents an excellent solution - compost. The composition of this garden fertilizer includes all nitrogenous materials valuable for the soil (leaves, green tops). Not only cucumbers, but also sweet peppers, and even tomatoes will be happy to grow on it.

A warm bed in the spring using compost will provide invaluable assistance to the soil itself. It is no secret that sometimes the soil in greenhouses gets tired very quickly, harmful substances accumulate in it, which leads to diseases of vegetables and other crops. As for compost, with its use you can forget about these types of problems. The earth will be enriched with valuable elements, and without the slightest chemical additives.

Arrangement of beds in the greenhouse

The device of warm beds is very simple to understand, however, if the structure is planned to be located in a greenhouse, you need to know a few nuances that will help maintain the level of heat necessary for the crops grown.

A manure thermal pad is the best option for warming up. On the first day, it can reach a temperature of 70 degrees, and then keep 30 degrees for another month. Horse manure should be laid on the bottom of the bed after sawdust, then everything is well tamped.

Garden fences

How to make a warm bed in such a way that the soil does not crumble, and the beds acquire the desired geometry? The answer is simple: they need to be protected with sides.

Board types:

Aluminum structures can be purchased ready-made in the desired size in a specialized store. Due to the fact that the coating is not afraid of moisture and the sun, it is considered the most durable. In addition, the aluminum sides are very attractive.
If you have unused pieces of slate left at home, then you can avoid additional costs and make warm beds with your own hands with boards from improvised materials. Slate is considered a durable material, but you need to be careful with it, because there is a risk of injury.
You can always give originality to the layout by showing just a little imagination. Sides made of unnecessary car tires look unusual. In addition, this material will serve as an additional heat source. A warm bed will receive the required amount of ultraviolet rays.
Brick sides - a durable construction that will last you for many years. When you think about how to make a warm bed using this partition material, consider the height in advance.
Plastic bottles are a bright design touch. If you have accumulated a large number of them, then you can use them as temporary bumpers for your beds. For a long time this design is not enough, but you will have time to enjoy the unusual design.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to figure out how to make a warm bed. If you show a little ingenuity and imagination, you can complete the design at no extra cost. If desired, your warm bed can become not just a place for germinating seeds, but also an exclusive design element.

Self-made warm beds are a great opportunity to get a harvest earlier than usual. Our capricious Russian spring is often fraught with unpleasant surprises, for example, sharp drops in temperatures down to frost. In this article, we share our experience in creating warm beds for the purpose of growing vegetable products.

Even Nikolai Kurdyumov, the famous agronomist and propagandist of natural farming, said that fertility is not a state, but a dynamic process that occurs in the soil. Warm beds in layers are designed to create this continuous living process.

On the living substrate of insulated beds, vegetable crops develop much better, it is easier for them to cope with superficial night frosts and to endure temperature fluctuations. Vegetables on insulated ridges ripen faster, and the labor costs of summer residents are reduced.

The amazing garden of Igor Lyadov

The whole process of vegetable growing according to the Lyadov system can be reduced to two technological operations - the cultivation of vegetables on specially organized narrow ridges using the Mitlider method and natural farming without the use of pesticides.

For many years in a row, the garden of Igor Lyadov was in a state of disrepair. Vegetable crops in the conditions of the Far Eastern climate felt uncomfortable, they suffered from waterlogging and soaking.

Regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers did not save the situation, the taste of vegetables was unsatisfactory, potato degeneration was observed, and the yield of vegetable crops decreased every year.

The gardener enthusiast decided to seriously take up his site. He noticed that when using wide traditional beds, the leaves of only those plants that were located along the edges of the ridge normally develop.

The farmer concludes that the processes of plant growth and development are affected by the presence of fresh air masses and space. Igor Nikolaevich finds confirmation of his ideas in the method of growing Mitlider vegetables. It comes down to growing crops on narrow strips of land with a fairly large row spacing (75 cm or more).

The Russian plant breeder decides to modify the methodology and raise the warm beds, made with his own hands, above the dirt paths by 20 cm in order to get rid of regular floods, which are not rare in the area where he lives. An enterprising gardener put together a wooden fence - a box, and fenced the ridges.

Such a fence served as protection against erosion of the soil. It turned out to be an impromptu container.

The advantages of containers are obvious:

the shape of the beds is maintained throughout the growing season;
water lingers in the soil, and plants can be watered less often;
the wooden box made composting more efficient;
high ridges prevent the loss of nutrients and carbon dioxide released by microorganisms.

Soon Lyadov decides to abandon mineral fertilizers. Plants grown in his garden receive only organic matter in the form of manure, herbal infusion, compost, mulch. Also used. Warm beds and Igor Lyadov's amazing garden are a great example of natural farming in the open field.

Beds in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate and polyethylene

So that the plants do not suffer from recurrent frosts, and also in order to accelerate their development, it is recommended to grow cucumber seedlings under film cover until the last days of May. Before making beds in a greenhouse, it must be thoroughly disinfected, last year's residues removed and damaged elements replaced. In a small greenhouse, three narrow beds can be built, leaving two passages for maintenance.

The material for the construction of warm beds use the same materials as for the beds in the garden. In well-fixed boxes, add all the necessary components.

On a warm bed under a reliable shelter made of polycarbonate or polyethylene, plants feel much better, they grow faster and painlessly endure night cooling on the soil surface.

If you want to get the first production of early cucumbers earlier, then you need to grow them through seedlings. When growing through seedlings, you can save expensive or scarce seeds, each seed will yield a crop and will not get lost in the soil.

Cucumber seedlings are planted in a permanent place of cultivation when four true leaves appear on the plants.

Immediately before planting seedlings, pits are made on insulated high beds. The depth should be equal to the depth of the glass in which the cucumber seedlings were located.

On such ridges in an unheated greenhouse, cucumbers are planted in one row in the center of the ridge, leaving a distance of 20 cm between plants.

After a week, the plants must be tied to pegs, and preferably to a trellis. The lower edge of the rope is tied to a cucumber whip above the third leaf, the height is 12 cm above ground level.

A warm bed with warming compost and manure under a polycarbonate cover or film provides optimal temperature conditions for plants.

The temperature is regulated by ventilation, for this you can simply lift the plastic film or open the window.

A wooden box will keep moisture longer. Cucumbers are a vegetable crop that loves moisture very much. Before entering the fruiting period, it is necessary to water the cucumber plantations every 2 to 3 days, while the water consumption per plant is 0.5 liters.

During the period of fruit ripening, cucumbers are watered daily, spending 1.5 - 3 liters of water under each root.

With the onset of stable heat, the covering material is completely removed.

Growing vegetables in warm beds in spring and autumn

Modern greenhouses, even those built with their skillful hands, are quite expensive for a summer resident, so zealous owners try to make the most of it.

Even if the greenhouse is without additional heating, and you live in the country for a limited time, you can develop such agricultural technology so that the crop ripens from April to November under transparent vaults. Of course, this applies to stationary greenhouses, year-round closed with glass or polycarbonate.

In an unheated greenhouse, sowing of cold-resistant crops begins in early April, or at the end of March if the weather is warm.

The seeds of radish, parsley, dill, lettuce, arugula, Chinese cabbage, and mustard are the first to fall into the ground.

No matter how the greenhouse protects, for early planting it should be possible to additionally cover the plants with non-woven material.

In the same way, you can grow all of the listed crops in the fall, extending the season for consuming fresh herbs until the end of November.

Autumn harvest of greenery

How to make a warm bed in the fall for growing greens until the end of November?

At the end of August, the greenhouse is practically free from tomato plants, eggplant peppers, it is good if a couple of cucumber lashes are preserved. So why not use the free areas, securely covered from cold nights, to good use.
As in early spring, thoroughly clean the greenhouse of plant residues, remove all damage, yellowed and diseased leaves from the remaining plants, rinse the polycarbonate surfaces.
Loosen the soil, spill it with a dark red solution of potassium permanganate, season with humus, wood ash and.
After a couple of days, pour the prepared ridges with a solution of phytosporin, make furrows and sow vegetables on the greens.

A warm bed, built in an unheated greenhouse, will allow you to grow greens until the last days of November

Do-it-yourself warm beds, step by step manufacturing

There is such a rule of the farmer: everything that is taken from the earth must be returned to it:

Create compost pits on the site and fill them with some fertile soil, peat.
Strictly follow the principle of a sandwich, that is, layers.
In order for the compost heap to turn into full-fledged compost, each row of waste must be covered with urea or other nitrogen fertilizers.
Another condition: the compost must be watered, at least 15 buckets of water will have to be turned over per 1 square meter. And keep in mind, you need to pour water evenly, over the entire thickness of the heap. In the layer of compost and humus, earthworms will soon start up, they will turn the compost and humus into fertile humus.

How to make a warm bed:

High warm beds will save water for irrigation. It is recommended to mulch the ground with cut grass, slightly dried in the sun.

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