Technology of growing potatoes in the Kuban. Growing early potatoes in the Krasnodar Territory

I have already read a lot of letters on how to get a good and early one. And most readers write about how to properly plant it.

Preparation of furrows for potatoes in autumn

They are right, of course, but I believe that the most important thing is to prepare the soil in the fall. I personally prepare the beds at this time. I'm digging rows, throwing back the ground.

I put any decaying organic garbage into the furrows: corn stalks, sunflowers, a little pigeon droppings, even bird feather I'm on the move! Then I dig the next row and cover the furrow filled with organic matter with the soil taken out of it. And on top I cover it with a thick layer of fallen leaves (photo 1). And so everything goes into the winter.

Planting potatoes in the Krasnodar Territory

I plant in the spring, strictly certain time-22 March. By church calendar on this day, the feast of the forty Martyrs of Sebaste is celebrated (my grandmother always planted exactly 40 tubers, and they never let her down). I plant in three rows in a checkerboard pattern. Landing, by the way, I spend with the help of an interesting tool, which I read about in a magazine.

On the shaft of a shovel, at a height of 10-15 cm from its working tip, a crossbar 25-30 cm long is nailed (photo 2). I press it with my foot, the shaft enters the ground, I pull it out - the landing hole is ready.

In it - a pinch of ash, and on top I put a tuber with sprouted small sprouts-roots. I fill the hole with my hand or foot. After that, I pour some hay, straw and leaves on top of the ground.

Beds for Kuban potatoes

I have fenced beds for potatoes: their width is 80-90 cm, the length is different. The passages are covered with old linoleum, roofing material, boards. I put low arcs along the edges of the beds, on which I attach covering material without tension. I press its edges to the ground with boards. And that's all. Even if there are frosts, the leaves and straw warm the potatoes that have come out.

In mid-April, I open it, remove the weeds and close it again: the nights are still cool. I completely remove the covering material only if there is a very strong heat. This is how potatoes grow in organic matter (photo 3). And I start digging the harvest already in mid-May. And immediately in place of the dug bushes I plant the seeds of cucumbers, and How to deceive the tubers

But good harvest do not wait without good planting material. Therefore, now I want to talk about how to save tubers until spring. All the difficulties with storing potatoes are due to the fact that it is impossible to maintain in the basement desired temperature 2-3° when it's warm outside.

But even in December, “overboard” can be at least 10 °. Last year, for example, good frosty days could be counted on the fingers. And what's the point? Yes, in sprouts on potatoes! The tubers intended for food will have nothing from them, but the planting ones will become bad - because of the large sprouts, the yield will decrease.

Here is how I solve this problem. I'll start with the same early potatoes. In our region, many harvest two crops: the seed dug out in May is re-planted in August (harvested in October).

And I store until the second planting of tubers in plastic boxes from under vegetables, which have sides 10-15 cm high. At the bottom of each of them I spread newspapers in two or three layers and put seed potatoes, and always in one row (photo 4). I put the boxes in a pile in the corner of the room, not covering anything, but so that a direct line does not fall on them. sunlight. Occasionally I spray potatoes from a spray bottle to spray flowers. Sometimes, in order for the sprouts to “spread”, I cut off their tips with scissors.

And most importantly, in the upper boxes, the sprouts themselves grow no more than 2 cm and do not stretch further, freeze. The trick is that this potato is waiting to be covered with earth, and therefore does not release more “tails”, but this is exactly what I need!

Of course, the tubers in the lower boxes “think” in a completely different way (after all, they are almost in the dark, since there are several floors of boxes above them), and their sprouts grow as they should. Here they have to break off, but this work is not so much. Conveniently. So the potatoes are preserved without hassle until August. I also keep the one that I dig out in the fall.

If you doubt the correctness of my method - try it. Make one box in the fall and put it somewhere in the corner, you will see everything for yourself. I was also hesitant at first, and my family laughed at me when I told them about my idea. But the successful experience convinced everyone. This is how I always keep my seed potatoes. In the same boxes I store all the potatoes for food (I put them, however, in two layers). Everything lies very well. And even in this anomalous warm winter I had to sort through only once, and even then purely for order.

No cabbage, no birch on potatoes

And now I want to talk about other garden topics that are no less important than growing and storing potatoes. For example, . Some summer residents scream because they cannot cope with it. I, too, as soon as I didn’t fight it: I grew plants inside buried plastic cups without a bottom, wrapped seedling stems with hard cellophane (the plants were sick, but it didn’t save from pests), buried bottles of beer and baits, fertilized with chicken droppings on autumn (kapustyanka became smaller, but did not completely disappear).

Mulching potatoes

The way out was found by itself, when I began to tightly mulch all my plantings, even began to close the aisles with mowed grass and large stems(photo 5). And for the first couple of years in the spring, the cabbage crawled out to the surface almost dead. I did not immediately understand what was the matter. Only after digging in the literature, I understood everything for myself.

After all, the kapustyanka lives only in loose, dug up earth. And she cuts the plants, creating open spaces so that you can bask in the sun. Please note: it is not found in forests and meadows, because there is no open land there! And here - a thick layer of mulch. In general, on the mulched beds, over time, the cabbage was completely gone.

The same mulch saves me now from weed plant which is called birch. Weeding it is a waste of time and effort. I have more than 12 acres of land, and this weed is not there. And what do I observe in hundreds of local vegetable gardens? People removed, for example, potatoes in July, and the rest of the time the land is bare. And this is in the heat of 40 ° in the shade! This is an aggressor birch for us, and for the land, it is our own daughter, who will shelter her from the heat with her body. Therefore, the growth rate of the weed is cosmic.

What am I doing.

In the summer, I always have mustard seeds in my pocket. For example, I cut out a head of early cabbage - and immediately sowed a few things. Until the entire bed is freed, the mustard will grow. I will break it at the root and lay it here. The earth should always be covered: in summer - from heat, in winter - from frost.

In autumn, more fallen leaves can be added on top. Photo 6 shows how my beds hibernate.

All the proposed methods have been tested by me for more than one year - I am responsible for them. I use a lot of advice myself on a regular basis. After the experiment, some had to be abandoned, they did not suit me personally.

Svetlana Vladimirovna ZARYA. Krasnodar region. Timashevsk

Perhaps someone will find my request surprising, but still: please send me

Timely planting of potatoes is very important in obtaining a high yield. It is possible to have a good vernalized planting material, fertilized and cultivated area, but be late with the planting date and this will drastically reduce the yield.

Planting too early in cold soil usually slows emergence, causes sprout disease and sparseness. With a belated planting, young plants, developing rapidly, do not have time to form a powerful root system, do not productively use winter moisture reserves, and, falling into dry and hot weather, undergo mass wilt.

The optimal planting time is usually considered to be when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 - 12 cm reaches 7 - 8 °C. In the conditions of the Krasnodar Territory, where the soil warms up very quickly, the best results are given early dates landing. As a rule, it is necessary to start planting potatoes simultaneously with the mass sowing of spiked crops (second, third decade of March).

Experiments carried out at the Krasnodar vegetable and potato breeding station found that best timing landings in the Kuban zone are March 15 - 25.

Planting potatoes should be carried out as soon as possible (5 - 6 days).

In experiments with the Lorkh variety at the Krasnodar Vegetable and Potato Breeding Station in 1948, a crop was obtained from the planting date on March 20, 141.3 centners per hectare, and from planting on April 6, 121 centners per hectare. Similar data were obtained with other varieties.

It is necessary to plant potatoes in loose soil, that is, so that there is a loose layer of earth above and below the tubers. This condition must be remembered and observed.

Potatoes are planted under a hiller, a KP-2 potato planter, or under a shovel (on small areas). It is not recommended to plant under a plow in the conditions of the steppe and central zones of the Krasnodar Territory, since in this case lumps are formed and the soil dries out.

When planting under the hiller, the field is marked for the required row spacing. Following the traces of the marker, furrows are cut with a hiller and planting is carried out on the same day, with immediate sealing of the furrows. The row spacing is usually taken as 70 cm. This row spacing provides mechanization when caring for potatoes and harvesting them. You can also plant 60 cm between rows, but such a row spacing excludes machine care and cleaning. The distance between the tubers (in a row) is given: for medium and late varieties 30 - 35 cm, for early 25 - 30 cm.

The depth of planting potatoes depends on the properties of the soil. On light soils (chernozems and sandy loams), tubers must be covered by 12 - 14 cm, and on heavy and clay soils by 10 - 12 cm.

The planting rate per hectare is determined by the size of the planting material and planting density. When planting tubers weighing 60 - 80 g, with a feeding area of ​​70 cm × 30 cm; 70 cm × 35 cm planting rate ranges from 24 centners per hectare to 35.6 centners per hectare.

Potatoes are grown in temperate climates around the world. In the countries of the Northern Hemisphere, it is, if not the basis of the diet, then a significant part of it. Since its appearance on the Eurasian continent, many varieties have been bred with different characteristics. In areas with a short summer, early-ripening ones are especially valued. And in other regions, gardeners plant early varieties in order to have young potatoes on the table already in June. Their only disadvantage is that they are not suitable for winter storage, so they are grown in small quantities.

General characteristics of early ripe potato varieties

Potatoes of early varieties are characterized by a short growing season. It begins to grow actively as soon as the soil temperature reaches +10 o C. The crop can be harvested after flowering. It should be noted that during this period, young tubers have a very thin skin, and they cannot be stored for a long time.

Early varieties, depending on the period of reaching technical ripeness, are classified as follows:

• ultra early (34–36 days);
• early (40–50 days);
• medium early (50–60 days).

Potatoes need another 15-20 days to fully ripen. Fully ripened tubers are stored up to 5 months.

Ultra-early varieties are very popular. Due to the rapid maturation, they allow you to feast on young potatoes already a month and a half after germination. Their yield is lower compared to late varieties and varies from 1.5 to 4.5 kg per 1 m 2, depending on care and watering.

To be with a fresh harvest throughout the garden season, many vegetable growers and summer residents plant varieties with different terms maturation. When the ultra-early potatoes are already running out, the medium-early ones ripen, and then the late ones, which are stored until the next season.

Ultra early varieties

These varieties give the earliest harvest. From germination to flowering, when you can try young tubers, a little more than a month passes.

If potatoes are supposed to be stored, then you should wait another 2-3 weeks before digging so that the skin gets stronger.

Table: characteristics of ultra-early potato varieties

Variety	Vegetation period (in days)	Characteristic
Bellarosa	45	Early ripe variety with high yield (up to 350 kg per hundred square meters), disease resistance and large (200–600 grams) oval fruits brown shade with high taste characteristics. Due to the short growing season in the southern regions of the country, the harvest is obtained twice per season. It is planted at a depth of at least 25 cm. This variety is best planted after legumes, since it does not give a large crop on depleted soil.
Rosara	45–60	It tolerates drought and waterlogging, is immune to fungal diseases and powdery mildew. There is also a significant disadvantage - it is attractive to colorado potato beetle. Oblong-oval tubers of red, sometimes Brown with yellow flesh, excellent taste, weight 80-150 grams. Up to 30 tubers can form in one bush, depending on the frequency of watering. Productivity - 350–400 kg per hundred square meters.
Impala	45–60	It is characterized by high yield, keeping quality, resistance to diseases, excellent taste. Tubers are oval, yellow, weighing 90-160 grams, with yellow flesh. Grows well even in adverse conditions. Productivity - 370–600 kg per hundred square meters.
Ariel	45–60	High-yielding variety (up to 490 kg per hundred), suitable for long-term storage. Allows you to get two or even three crops per season. Resistant to various diseases. It does not need top dressing, but loves watering and frequent hilling. Tubers weighing 80-170 grams, light yellow.
Zhukovsky early	45–60	One of the best tasting varieties. It tolerates drought, low temperatures, diseases well, regularly gives high yields (up to 500 kg per hundred square meters) on any soil. Long stored. The tubers are even, pink with white flesh, weighing 130–150 g. When boiled, they do not turn blue for a long time. Suitable for growing in all climatic conditions.
Caprice	45–60	Unpretentious to growing conditions. Disease resistant. It has a high yield (up to 400 kg per hundred square meters). Tubers are oval, yellow, weighing 90-120 grams, very good taste.
Uladar	45	Grows on any soil. Tubers are round or oval, light yellow, weighing 90-180 grams, poorly boiled. Suitable for long term storage. Productivity - up to 350 kg per hundred square meters.
Lapis lazuli	45–60	Characterized by early formation of tubers, resistance to diseases. Can give two crops per season. The tubers are yellow, weighing 90-120 grams. Productivity - up to 260 kg per hundred square meters.
Prior	45–60	high yielding dutch variety. In Russia, the yield reaches 100-140 kg, in Holland - up to 400 kg per hundred square meters. It tolerates low temperatures well. Produces very tasty yellow tubers.
Spring	45–50	The early maturity of this variety allows even in the North-West of Russia to harvest two crops per season. From 1 m 2 get 3-4 kg of potatoes. Due to the very short growing season, it is suitable for cultivation in the Arctic. Tubers are predominantly oval, weighing 180 grams. Possesses average resistance to diseases. Productivity - up to 600 kg per hundred square meters.

Photo gallery: ultra-early potato varieties

Rosara is attractive to the Colorado potato beetle
Impala is resistant to adverse weather conditions
Ariel can produce two or more harvests in one season.
Zhukovsky early - high yielding variety with excellent tuber flavor
Prior is resistant to temperature drops
Lapis lazuli quickly forms tubers

Early varieties

Early varieties ripen a little later than ultra-early ones. They can be harvested and eaten on average 2 months after germination.

Table: early potato varieties and their characteristics

Variety	Vegetation period (in days)	Characteristic
Alyona	60–70	A table variety with a yield of 170–190 kg per hundred square meters. Does not require special care. Tubers are oval, light red, weighing 80-160 grams.
Luck	60–70	It adapts well to extreme weather conditions and any type of soil, tolerates both drought and waterlogging. Possesses good keeping quality. Gives relatively high yields - about 1.2 kg per bush. It is recommended to plant only in well-warmed soil. The tubers are oval, light yellow, with a very mediocre taste, weighing 125–250 grams. Up to 20 fruits are formed in one bush.
Karatop	50–60	High-yielding variety (up to 500 kg per hundred). Tubers are oblong-oval, yellow, weighing about 130 grams, good taste. Resistant to cancer, late blight, leaf curl virus.
Kamensky	60	Productive (185 kg per hundred) variety resistant to diseases and the Colorado potato beetle. The tubers are elongated, red, weighing about 100 grams, very tasty, with a high starch content.
Romano	60–70	Unpretentious to the type of soil, tolerates drought well. High-yielding (up to 320 kg per hundred). The tubers are red, weighing 70-80 grams, good taste.
Gala	75–80	High-yielding (up to 600 kg per hundred), disease-resistant, very unpretentious (suitable for cultivation in all regions), ideal for mechanized harvesting. The tubers are round, yellow, weighing 70-120 grams, good taste, do not lose their density during cooking. An average of 10–15 fruits is formed in a bush.
Nevsky	75–80	One of the most popular variety in Russia. Recommended for cultivation in all regions of the country. High-yielding (380-500 kg per hundred), excellent taste, resistant to diseases. Well adapted to any conditions. The tubers are the most beautiful and even compared to other varieties. Its disadvantage is that it requires compliance with the following technology: seed potatoes in the spring from storage for planting should be taken only not sprouted, then germinated and planted with short strong shoots. The tubers, which winter storage overgrown with long sprouts, categorically not suitable for planting. It is also impossible to break off and damage the sprouts.
Red Scarlett	75–80	Gives consistently high yields (up to 600 kg per hundred square meters). Recommended for cultivation in almost all regions of Russia. The fruits are large, weighing 70–110 grams, with red skin and yellow flesh, which even when heat treatment does not change its color. Doesn't boil over, good for frying.

Photo gallery: early varieties of potatoes

Alena - disease resistant variety
Luck grows on any soil in any weather
Kamensky is resistant to the Colorado potato beetle
Karatop gives friendly early harvests

Features of planting early varieties of potatoes

Planting potatoes en masse begins in early May, after the end of stable frosts. The sowing depth depends on the type of soil and the size of the tuber. If the earth is light, loose, then potatoes can be planted to a depth of 20 cm, in heavy soil - no more than 10 cm. Large tubers are planted deeper, small ones closer to the surface. In dry areas, planting is deepened even more.

The main condition for starting potato sowing is warming up the soil to at least +10 ° C to a depth of 10 cm. Otherwise, the tubers will freeze and rot. The peculiarities of planting early potatoes include the fact that only germinated tubers need to be planted. Otherwise, all technical processes are the same as in the cultivation of medium-late and late varieties of potatoes.

Video: tuber preparation

The better the potato tubers are prepared for sowing, the earlier and more friendly the harvest will be.

You can do this in the following ways:

1. Sprout potatoes for 25-35 days, spreading in bright room at a temperature of +12...+15 o C.
2. At the same temperature, germinate the tubers by placing them in boxes with wet peat or sawdust.
3. Germinate seed tubers in plastic bags in a cool room.
4. Dry the tubers at a temperature not lower than +10 ° C.

Sprouted potatoes require very careful handling. Planting tubers with damaged sprouts will not produce a crop.

Strong sprouts on seed potatoes - the key to fast and friendly shoots

Soil preparation

soil to spring crops start cooking in September-October. At the same time with autumn digging fertilizers are applied to the soil. Suitable fresh manure which will rot over the winter. In the spring, it is brought in only when it is rotted, otherwise the plants will “burn out”: when fresh, it releases a large amount of heat. To get rid of the Colorado potato beetle and its larvae, urea or ash is introduced into the soil. You can add fertilizer during planting. In this case, at the bottom of the hole is placed onion peel or ash. The main thing is not to overdo it with fertilizers, as not only their deficiency, but also their excess reduces the potato yield.

In order for the potato to grow well and bear fruit, it needs loose and light soil, which contributes to the saturation of the roots with oxygen.

Stony and dense soil is completely unsuitable for him. Excessive soil moisture causes the development of fungal and bacterial diseases. But on sandy loam, gray forest soils, light loams and drained peat bogs, potatoes will grow well.

Clay, acidic, sandy soil and salt licks can only be used after improvement. Straw humus, sand, soddy soil, ash, lime or manure are introduced into heavy clay soil. Rotted straw, peat, organic and mineral fertilizers fast action. It is best to add compost or clay flour to the soil. Sandy loamy soils should be regularly fertilized with compost and peat, and mineral fertilizers should be applied - often, but in small quantities. Loams during autumn processing should be fertilized with organic matter, adding manure and compost.

Photo gallery: organic soil additives

Decayed manure is the best organic fertilizer
Overripe straw enriches sandy soils with organic matter
Ash contributes to soil deoxidation and protects the seed material from pests

Planting seedlings

Can you plant potatoes? seedling way and get a harvest 2 weeks earlier. At the end of March, you need to start preparing the seed material for planting. At the end of April, it is sown, and in mid-May, ready-made seedlings are already planted in the ground.

Seedling method allows you to get a harvest earlier

Growing early seedlings has its own characteristics. As sprouts appear, they will need to be sprinkled with earth all the time until the box is full. Thus, the plant develops a developed root system. When the seedlings rise 15 cm in height, they can be safely planted in the ground, but only in well-heated soil.

If the seedlings are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, then the ripening period of the tubers will be further reduced by about two weeks.

Features of growing early potatoes

Because early potatoes have a very short growing season, by the time any infections begin to spread, the crop is already harvested. The Colorado potato beetle also does not have time to spoil it. Therefore, early potatoes are not subjected to pesticide and chemical treatments. The main thing that early varieties need is watering and top dressing.

Fertilize early landings potatoes according to their characteristics:

1. Early varieties are much faster saturated with fertilizers applied to the soil than mid-season and late ones. Therefore, it is best to use easily digestible fast-acting dressings.
2. The introduction of humus creates the necessary nutrient, well-balanced environment in the soil. Manure warms and nourishes the soil.
3. An active increase in the green mass of the plant is given by nitrogen supplements. But the excessive growth of green mass impairs the development of the root system and, accordingly, reduces the number of tubers.
4. Early varieties need more phosphate fertilizers than late crops.
5. When feeding potatoes with humus, there is no need for potash fertilizers. Most often, potash fertilizers do not have any effect on the yield and quality of fruits.
6. Minerals in fast-acting forms contribute to an early harvest.

No-till technology

To receive early harvest you can use the no-till method. Its essence is simple:

1. The beds are marked with a width of about 4 meters and a boundary between them with a width of 30 cm.
2. On the bed, transverse grooves are drawn at an interval of 90 cm.
3. Tubers are laid out in the grooves at a distance of 25 cm from each other.
4. The laid tubers are sprinkled with ash and fertilizers and covered with earth from above. The ridges will be higher than with a traditional landing.
5. For the entire period of potato growth, until the tops are intertwined, it will be necessary to weed the aisles several times.
6. Grown bushes require hilling. When hilling, the earth must be raked from the space between the furrows; at the same time, shallow grooves are formed between the rows of hilled bushes.

Photo gallery: no-till potato planting method

The tubers are neatly laid out at a small distance from each other.
If necessary, fertilizers are added to the grooves before backfilling.
Land for hilling is raked from the aisles, deepening them

About 10 days before harvest, cut the tops in half. When harvesting, you need to pull it out, destroying the comb with movements in the opposite direction from the landing side. Thus, the grooves will be half-filled, but noticeable. next spring potatoes should be planted in them, covering with earth from the former ridges, which, in turn, will become grooves. This will change the landing rows.

Video: how to plant, grow and harvest potatoes in a no-till way

When growing potatoes with this method, the moisture in the soil lasts longer, the consumption of fertilizers is reduced and the harvesting process is facilitated. This method is suitable for small, waterlogged and inconvenient areas.

Outdoor cultivation

There are the following traditional methods of planting potatoes in the ground:

• trench;
• smooth;
• ridge.

Trenching is the most suitable method for warm climates, light and sandy soil that does not contain moisture. Dig furrows 10-15 cm deep at a distance of 70 cm from each other. Tubers are laid in them: large ones at a distance of 40 cm, small ones - 30–35 cm.

Trench planting is ideal for regions with hot, dry summers.

A smooth landing (under a shovel) is carried out as follows: a hole is dug, a tuber is placed in it with sprouts up and then sprinkled with earth on top. Landings are made in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 60-70 cm from each other. Hole depth - 10 cm.

Landing under a shovel is the main method practiced by most gardeners

The ridge method is used on heavy, waterlogged soils. At a distance of 70 cm from each other, ridges 10–15 cm high are created, in which tubers are planted at intervals of 30 cm.

Growing potatoes in ridges saves them from excess moisture.

When planting early potatoes, the following rules should be followed:

• it is necessary to land in early May;
• choose a site for landing should be sufficiently illuminated, without stagnant water;
• it is better to arrange the rows from north to south;
• as the bushes grow, watering, hilling and top dressing should be carried out.

Hilling is carried out after the first shoots, as well as after watering and rains.

Watering is required several times:

1. Half a month after germination.
2. During flowering.
3. When the ground gets too dry.

Top dressing is necessary during the period of enhanced growth of tops, budding and flowering.

Growing potatoes under cover

You can get an early harvest of potatoes by growing it under a film or agrofibre. When sheltering a site with plantings, favorable conditions are created for the rapid growth of plants and the development of their root system.

Under the film of potatoes - ideal conditions for growth

Under the film, potatoes will survive the frost perfectly and will grow much better. Tubers under cover usually mature 2-3 weeks earlier than in unprotected ground.

How to grow early potatoes under the film:

1. In advance, draw up a layout of the beds and prepare the required amount of film.
2. Choose an early variety. Select only large tubers for sowing.
3. Sprout seed potatoes.
4. Protect the potato plot from the winds.
5. Wait for a good warming up of the soil.
6. Make a film shelter: frame or frameless. With frameless sheltering of seedlings, the film is pressed down with heavy objects so that it is not blown away by the wind. With frame covering, the film is stretched over the arcs.
7. Follow temperature regime. In sunny weather, the soil under the film can warm up to +45 ° C, so it is necessary to open the film for ventilation.

When growing potatoes under a film, the crop can be harvested already in the second half of May.

In the same way, potatoes are grown under agrofiber. The only difference is that the agrofibre, unlike the film, transmits not only light, but also air, so it is not necessary to open it for ventilation.

With sharp drops in temperature, a double shelter of plants is used: a film is stretched over the fiber.

How to grow early potatoes in a greenhouse

In a greenhouse, potatoes always bear fruit well, if the necessary conditions are met.

You can get an early harvest of potatoes when growing in a greenhouse, if you follow the following rules:

1. For sowing, you need to select large tubers in mid-November and spread them out in a place well lit by the sun so that they turn green.
2. When the sprouts reach 1 cm, the tubers should be transferred to boxes, sprinkled with wet peat or sawdust and taken out for 1-2 weeks in a heated greenhouse. By the time of planting, the tubers should already have strong shoots and rudiments of roots.
3. The holes are dug according to the scheme 70 * 25, about 8 cm deep.
4. Peat or humus is introduced into the hole, a tuber is placed on top and sprinkled with earth.
5. Watering after planting is not required. The first time you will need to water the potatoes when sprouts appear and the soil dries.
6. When the plants start to bloom, the humidity in the greenhouse will need to be maintained at 80-100%. The air temperature must be regulated as follows: during growth, budding and flowering in the greenhouse it should be +21 ... + 23 ° C, with mass formation of tubers + 17 ... + 19 ° C.
7. Top dressing with fertilizers is carried out in the same way as in open ground.

When growing potatoes in a greenhouse, it is not exposed to any diseases, and the yield reaches 3.5 kg per 1 m 2.

Features of planting and growing in different climatic zones

Growing potatoes in different climatic zones has its own characteristics. In order not to make an unfortunate mistake and not be left without an early harvest, you need to choose varieties suitable for growing in a particular area.

middle lane

Central Russia is its European part, characterized by a temperate continental climate, snowy and frosty winters and humid summers. Average daily temperatures during the year range from -10 o C to +24 o C. Soils are not too enriched with nutrients. From high humidity potatoes are often exposed to diseases. Late varieties do not have time to form fruits. Therefore, for cultivation here, you need to choose early varieties with better adaptation to any type of soil.

In this climate, you can even get two crops of potatoes per season.

Moscow region

The climate of the Moscow region also does not allow growing late varieties of potatoes, because planting is carried out in late April - early May. Local vegetable growers have to choose from early, mid-early and mid-season. It is necessary to grow zoned varieties adapted to local climatic conditions. Since the soil and climate of the Moscow region are often the cause of the spread of potato diseases, you need to choose varieties that have good immunity. Early Zhukovsky is suitable for this region, as it has good disease resistance, and it can grow in any climatic conditions and on any soil. In addition, the following varieties successfully grow in the Moscow region:

• Gala;
• Nevsky;
• Red Scarlett;
• Rosara;
• Uladar;
• Caprice.

Southern areas

The southern regions are not the most favorable area for growing potatoes due to the too warm climate. Potatoes grow well in moderate humidity and medium temperature. In hot weather, the processes of growth and formation of tubers slow down. Soils in the south are predominantly dense black soils. They interfere with the normal growth of tubers, cause their deformation. However, potatoes southern regions grown quite successfully, choosing varieties that are zoned and well adapted to elevated temperatures and black soil:

• Impala;
• Zhukovsky early;
• good luck;
• Red Scarlett;
• Dita;
• Roco;
• Romano;
• Picasso.

Far East

The climate of the Far East region is contrasting, but generally too cold for growing potatoes: average daily temperature July is only +11 ... + 13.5 ° C. However, the daylight hours are long, in July-August its duration is about 19 hours. Thanks to this, plants have time to grow green mass and even form tubers, but only ultra-early varieties with the shortest vegetative period. The cultivation of late potatoes in the Far East is not expected, since the frost-free period here lasts from 52 to 111 days. Suitable for growing in this area:

• Priekulsky early;
• Yenisei;
• Spring;
• Falensky;
• Amur and others.

Central Chernozem

The mild climate of the Central Black Earth Region is the most favorable conditions for growing potatoes. 55 varieties of this vegetable are cultivated here. Compared to the Moscow region, the yield here is one third higher. Good ones weather allow you to get two crops per season. And yet, experts recommend growing only zoned varieties to obtain high yields and savings in fertilizers and pesticides. The most common here are Red Scarlett, Ramos and Nevsky.

How to Harvest Two Harvests of Early Potatoes

The easiest way to get two crops a year is as follows: when picking early potatoes, the bush is dug up, removed from it large fruits, loosen the ground, make a deeper hole and immediately return it to the ground, without violating the integrity of the root system. The soil near the plant is trampled down with a foot. After that, you need to water the bushes with water, and preferably with a solution of mullein. When the water is absorbed into the ground, you need to loosen it upper layer. Further, the plants require regular care.

The tops should be fresh, without yellowness and any signs of disease. In the first 6-7 days after this procedure, it usually fades a little, but then it quickly recovers, taking on its usual healthy appearance.

The second harvest is not worse than the first. Repeated harvesting of potatoes begins after the tops die off or die from frost.

Difficult to choose from a large number one sort. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to focus on the varietal characteristics that are priority for you personally, the main advantages and disadvantages, the desired ripening period, and also take into account the requirements for climatic and weather conditions.

In the Kuban, the statistical regional agency issued the results of monitoring prices for vegetables, fruits and other important components of the daily menu of the inhabitants of the region. And it turned out that in the Kuban the prices for potatoes are higher than in any Russian region from 7 to 10 times. At the same time, the Deputy Head of the Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation Evgeny Gromyko claims that in Russia there is an overabundance of potatoes and they are not bought even for 4 rubles per kilogram.

Sochi residents are very rich people

In early September, public criticism from the then acting governor of Kuban Veniamin Kondratiev subjected to the mayor of Sochi Anatoly Pakhomov for product prices. It should be noted that the criticism was fair. Prices last year and early this year in Sochi beat just Olympic records. Looking at the price tags for vegetables grown in the region, the eyes become round, like those of a lemur, and a phrase from Mikhail Zhvanetsky's famous monologue about a tank, price tags and a counter comes to mind: "Dap, lope !!!". And all because in Sochi almost nothing is produced of its own.

Before the new year, we already wrote about the difference in cost in covering holiday table between Sochi, Moscow and other regions. Now the gap in prices is increasing every day.. In the neighboring regions - Volgograd, Rostov regions, Adygea and Astrakhan region. potatoes are 10-15 rubles cheaper than in the Krasnodar Territory. In addition, buckwheat, rice, bread, milk, meat, and fish are cheaper there. And if we talk about the Kuban itself, then here, of course, the highest prices for everything are in Sochi.

On January 23, in the Olympic capital, near the monument to the world leader of the revolution and the proletariat, the communists held a rally about the old people's benefits for travel and utilities. Once again, elderly citizens and social activists raised the issue of food prices, which differ significantly from Krasnodar.

“My fate has turned out so that for the last two years I have been living in two cities - in Sochi and Krasnodar,” says Natalya Kalinovskaya- assistant to the deputy of the State Duma of the Russian Federation from the Krasnodar Territory Sergei Obukhov. - I envy the people of Krasnodar with white envy. I don’t understand why in Krasnodar you can buy a kilogram of potatoes for 8 rubles 50 kopecks, cabbage - for 10 rubles, and in Sochi the price of potatoes in the store reaches 36 rubles per kilogram ?! Meanwhile, the mayor's office has a whole department for pricing policy. So every time I go to Sochi from Krasnodar to my mother to drag potatoes and other products in trunks, Kalinovskaya shared.

That is why, the head of the Kuban, “walking” last September with the mayor of Sochi past food stalls with price tags, said that Sochi residents are either very rich people, or there is a terrible shortage of food in the city, or Sochi residents are starving, unable to get “vitamins” from farm beds.

Did the Kuban run out of potatoes?

Returning to the top news about the cost of potatoes in the Krasnodar Territory, we will not discover America if we say that in Sochi more than 90 percent of all products are imported. This fact, along with rising prices due to holidaymakers and the absence of local farms, which ordered a long life during perestroika and preparations for the Olympics, give rise to marvelous prices. According to Krasnodarstat data, the cost of a kilogram of potatoes on the territory of the Kuban municipalities averaged at least 23 rubles. The record holders for prices are Sochi with a minimum price for "second bread" of 35 rubles and Novorossiysk - 29 rubles. Cabbage - in Sochi 40 rubles, along the edge - 27 rubles per kilo. Carrots by municipalities In the Krasnodar Territory, on average, it costs around 33 rubles. In Novorossiysk, about 40 rubles per kilogram and in Sochi - 47 rubles. Kuban apples in Sochi are about 100 rubles, in the region - from 60 to 75 rubles. And we are talking about the fact that they grow beautifully on the land of the Kuban and can cost a penny. Especially, of course, potatoes.

riddle of the year

Experts in the trade industry and suppliers say that this year there was a noble potato harvest in Russia, but for some reason this grace of nature bypassed the Kuban. Kuban potatoes have already reached almost the cost of bananas and oranges. Imported potatoes sold through chain stores do not fall below the mark of 26 rubles, and not every Sochi resident can afford local ones, which are sold in the markets.

According to the head of one of the Kuban farms where potatoes are grown, the price at which potatoes are sold is influenced by weather conditions.

— This year we were not able to sell potatoes at a normal price, because it was raining, we did not harvest anything. We didn't hit the price. Early potatoes were sold for 10-12 rubles. Previously, it was sold for 20-25 rubles, the farmer said, adding that the stocks of potatoes in the Kuban were depleted, and only seed material remained in the warehouses. There is only one way out - to bring potatoes to the Kuban, the granary of Russia from neighboring regions.

Deputy head of the ministry Agriculture Evgeny Gromyko said that big harvest potatoes, contrary to logic, led to strange results. The price turned out to be beneficial for the consumer, but not for the producers. In 2015, the potato harvest increased by 2 million tons and reached a total volume of 33.6 million tons.

According to Gromyko, a large potato harvest has led to an overabundance of it in the markets and tubers are not bought even at 4 rubles per kilogram. But here's the mystery, why, with such a cost of potatoes in the regions of Russia, in the same Sochi and Novorossiysk, this potato on the market costs from 35 to 50 and even 80 rubles per kilo? From which overseas countries is it brought to us?

Subsidies to farmers can reduce the cost of potatoes?

It became known that the Kuban government intends to revise subsidies to farmers. According to the Vice Governor Andrey Korobka, in 2016, the Kuban agrarians are tasked not only to maintain a positive growth trend in harvesting and processing, but also to increase production as part of the import substitution program.

“Now we need to think about how, in the conditions of import substitution, not only to feed the Kuban, but also neighboring regions. All possibilities are open for this. The federal government aims the regions at effective measures that will stimulate an increase in agricultural production, the official said.

In the Ministry of Agriculture of the region, according to the press service of the government of the Krasnodar Territory, they intend to pay special attention this year to state support measures and discuss their criteria - the procedure for providing subsidies to farms will be changed and measures will be taken to increase wages in farms.

“It is unacceptable when an enterprise receives tens of millions of subsidies, and the salary of employees is 9-10 thousand rubles,” the vice-governor emphasized.

According to the head of the accounting and financial department of the Ministry of Agriculture of the Kuban Svetlana Makarets, The amount of state support for farmers is increasing every year. Over the previous five years, enterprises of the agro-industrial complex of the region received 35.8 billion rubles of subsidies. Moreover, if in 2014 this figure was at the level of 6.2 billion rubles, then in 2015 it already amounted to 8.1 billion rubles, including 1.7 billion from the regional budget.

In general, this year the region allocated 1.9 billion rubles from the regional budget for the development and state support of agriculture. The total amount of state support funds in 2016 is planned to be at the level of 2015.

As for ordinary Kuban people, people hope that thanks to such support, the price of potatoes on the shelves in stores will decrease, but adequate - will not equal the cost of exotic fruits.

None of the large agricultural enterprises on the Black Sea coast is now engaged in the cultivation of potatoes, considering it economically unjustified due to acidic heavy clay soil and hot dry summers. The saddest thing. that most private traders also refused to plant potatoes, considering it impossible to get a good harvest. But my many years of experience proves the opposite: even in such conditions, you can harvest “ten yourself”, that is, from one bucket of planted potatoes, get ten buckets of good large tubers. But for this it is necessary to work good technology cultivation than, in fact, last years I am doing.

As I have already said, our land bakes in the summer and becomes like asphalt. Therefore, the primary task is to "grow" the soil itself, and this is green manure, and the addition of any decomposed organic matter, and the use of chemical fertilizers.

I only dig before winter to a depth of 20 cm. With the help of pegs, I divide the plot into parallel rows every 80 cm and between them I make straight lines on the ground with a shovel. These will be the axes of the trenches. I dig the earth to the width of a shovel to the left and right of them, laying the soil in the shafts (also on both sides).

As a result, it turns out that I dig up 50% of the entire area for planting potatoes. At the same time, each next year the axes of the trenches are shifted by 40 cm in any direction.

I dig with a small sapper shovel, which I cut to the width of the canvas up to 18 cm, leaving all other parameters unchanged. I make my own holder for it. The fact is that my site is located on a mountain slope at an angle of 30 °, so in order to dig the beds from the bottom up, load the back as little as possible, I had to significantly increase the length of the handle. Its diameter is 35 mm, and in diameter I made it not round, but rectangular with rounded corners - it's easier and more convenient to hold it in your hands while working.

Closer to winter, I collect fallen leaves in the forest and lay them in a thick layer on the bottom of the trenches with a continuous cover. By this time, a variety of vegetation appears on the ridges of the earth. I comb it out with a rake to the bottom of the trenches. What remains after that, I remove with a chopper made of thin manganese steel, the working and sides of which are sharply sharpened like a knife. This tool replaces the well-known flat cutter for me.

A very tricky way to plant potatoes

In the spring, before planting potatoes, I scatter leaves, hay, compost, mineral fertilizers (azofoska and superphosphate) and ash into the trenches. After that, I loosen the soil at the bottom of the trenches with a chopper and after 30-40 cm I make shallow holes in which I put seed potato tubers. I roll them with earth taken from the upper rollers to a height of 6-8 cm. It turns out, as it were, a small continuous ridge along the entire length of the trenches. The optimal landing time is from February 23 to March 15. If the land in the garden is dry, I arrange artificial sprinkling of the entire area. seed potatoes for

I buy plantings on the market, and I choose only early varieties that would have enough time and strength to ripen before the start of the summer heat. About a month before planting, I put the tubers in plastic boxes lined with film on the inside and put them in a warm place that is illuminated by the sun. This is necessary for the germination of potatoes. Once every four days I spray it with a solution of a growth regulator mixed with a biological preparation that protects plants from fungal and bacterial diseases.

I plant as whole tubers (the size of egg), and cut tops.

I lower small whole potatoes into the holes, 2 pieces each, and cuts, connecting them together with two wooden toothpicks, one at a time. Before this, I don’t dust the sections themselves with anything, I only let the surfaces harden.

When the tops of the potatoes reach a height of 10 cm, I fertilize the ridges a second time. I do this in the following tricky way: I apply nitrogen fertilizers on one side of the potato rows, and potash fertilizers on the other. And when the tops of the potatoes rise to 20 cm, I rake the soil from the rollers to the bushes, but I do this only either after rain or after good watering. AT final version hilling the rows of potatoes are a truncated solid pyramid, and where there were rollers from the dug earth, a groove appears.

Constant deep loosening around growing potatoes keeps weeds from rearing their heads.

After this, I fill the aisles with mowed and sun-dried grass. Tops from carrots, radishes, beets and other garden waste are also placed here. By the way, it is for this mulch that I then produce abundant watering directly from the hose (in the heat - at least two to three times a week). At the same time, I try not to pour over the plant itself, but all water procedures I spend after 18 hours. At this time, there is a decline in the summer daytime heat. By night, the top layer of mulch will dry out a little, and all the water will be absorbed into the aisles.

And one more thing - I don’t cut flowers on potatoes and I consider it a waste of time and effort, although at first I also believed that it helps plants. But then, in practice, I became convinced of the complete fallacy of such an opinion.

Colorado beetle? I don't know this...

Many gardeners strive to plant exactly on lunar calendar. For me, it is more important that the earth not only fluffs up after the winter, but also warms up. True, I do not plant potatoes on forbidden days (full moon, new moon, solar eclipse).

There is no entrance to my site, so I do not have the opportunity to bring peat or manure into the garden. It remains to improve the fertility of the land with green manure (corn, sunflower, oats), which I plant on the vacated ridges immediately after harvesting the potatoes. In late autumn, I cut down these plants with a chopper, grind and sprinkle with earth.

That's like all my ideas. It seems nothing special, but if at least one of the listed stages of work is not completed in a timely manner, then you can not hope for a harvest.

Seeing my potatoes, relatives from the Kuban did not believe that I had grown them in my garden. “Yes, you have never grown such potatoes in Sochi! I bought it at the market, but you are fooling us, ”they said. And only after my wife confirmed my words, the relatives changed their anger to mercy. And then they began to meticulously ask how I did it ...

But readers may have a question: why am I not saying anything about the main enemy - the Colorado potato beetle? It just doesn't exist in my garden. Where this bastard has gone, I don't really know. Perhaps he was frightened by the variety of plants growing on my site.

But with another misfortune - - I fight with the help of several combined fungicides. And I try not to treat the plants with the same preparation twice. I spend the first time spraying when the height of the tops reaches 10 cm, regardless of whether there is phytophthora or not. After 15 days, I start up another drug.

Yes, but before the peasants coped with all diseases without the use of chemistry. And what harvests were filmed! My late mother always planted peas over potatoes, inviting me and my brothers to enjoy its fruits, and at the same time weed or spud the plantings of the second bread. By the way, the pages of Dacha are full of confirmation of the indisputable fact that the same peas, as well as beans and beans, loosen the soil and enrich it with nitrogen.

By the way

According to popular belief, potatoes are able to absorb energy - both positive and negative. Therefore, for example, if you sort things out with your household in the kitchen in the “presence” of a potato, it will absorb the enmity in the air and return all the negativity to you a hundredfold when you decide to have dinner with it. Don't believe? And you check...

Have a good harvest in the new season!

GROWING POTATOES IN THE KRASNODAR REGION - LANDING AND CARE. TIPS AND FEEDBACK

POTATO PROTECTION FROM 7 THREATS

If we clearly imagine in advance what the potato wants from us, then there will be much less questions related to why it refuses to fulfill our desires.

The Other Side of Abundance

As soon as I was about to talk about how I grow potatoes, I immediately decided that at the same time I would collect all my knowledge about our second bread. No matter how much you talk about him, it won't be enough. So I wrote these words and realized that it would be best for me to start by listing the reasons for his degeneration. I counted seven of them. If someone counts more, let them share their thoughts, and I will continue.

But first, I'm making a little lyrical introduction. Previously, there were only three colors of potatoes: white, pink and yellow. And now you can find on the market with red pulp, and pink, and orange, and blue, and even purple. All this is the result of the work of breeders who seek to create not just delicious varieties, but, so to speak, with specific specifics. I personally met in the descriptions of the varieties of indications that, for example, one of them is considered dietary, the other is best suited for making chips, and some third is ideal for frying. It would seem that everything is done for the needs of ordinary people, but ...

I was disappointed in varietal potatoes, because they often turn out to be low-yielding and with diseases. And this despite the fact that its seed tubers are not cheap, because they are positioned as the highest quality planting material. As a result, it turns out that the cost of them for the most part does not pay off.

Where is the exit? It seems to me that it is not necessary to chase after all sorts of super-fashionable novelties with some zest, but to acquire potatoes that have been tested by time and more than one generation of gardeners. And this should be done more than once every ten years, hoping that since I have a good variety, then I don’t have to worry about anything else. Necessary! After all, on taste qualities tubers are also influenced by the methods of their preparation for planting, as well as the timing of planting, care, fertilizers used, cleaning and storage.

The points

And here I came close to the list of causes of degeneration. We start counting.

Multiple use for planting the same variety of POTATOES. So much has been said about this, but still there are many summer residents who think that such a requirement is nonsense. Like, our parents did not bother with this and were always with crops. Well, what can I say? If someone does not want to learn from the mistakes of others, let them learn from their own, if you don’t mind the time and effort.

Non-observance of crop rotation. You can’t plant potatoes in one place for several years in a row because diseases accumulate in the earth, it is depleted, no matter how much organic matter and fertilizers are applied to it.

Poor care of our second bread. In the first place here, I would put the soil unprepared for its landing. If it is heavy and poor, then even the most best grade potatoes won't do anything for you. So since you are going to grow this crop, then be so kind as to prepare a place for it to live in advance, because such work takes time - you will not achieve anything in a hurry. Personally, I "re-educated" my heavy earth by gradually and regularly introducing ash, sand, humus and leaf litter into it. And, of course, she actively used the landing of green manure. These plants, of course, can be called a real salvation for gardeners, but we must remember that some of them (for example, white mustard) scare away the wireworm, while others (I mean cereals), on the contrary, are food for this pest. When choosing green manure, all local features must be taken into account.

To insufficient care for planting potatoes, I also include them insufficient weeding. Many summer residents do not see anything wrong with this either, forgetting that before flowering, the bushes are actively “working” on the development of tubers, and weeds not only take away nutrients contained in the soil, but also give shading.

Too lazy to mess with weeding or not enough strength for it? Then master the advanced methods of growing potatoes: use mulch more actively, plant in ridges, and do hilling.

excess nitrogen in the soil.

From this potato tops grows tall and powerful, and the tubers are small and with poor keeping quality. If you see that your potatoes suddenly began to fatten, then feed it with superphosphate (100 g per 10 liters of water). So be careful when working with nitrogen fertilizers - they should be equally combined with phosphorus and potash.

Pests.

According to the degree of harmfulness, the palm here belongs to the potato moth (at least for our regions it is a real scourge), then there are the wireworm and the Colorado potato beetle. I protect my crop from moths in two ways: I plant tubers deep and in ridges, and in the spring I process the basement with potatoes with a sulfur checker (after all, this pest lays its eggs in the eyes of tubers). I fight the wireworm with ashes, which I throw a pinch into each planting hole. The thing is that he loves acidic soil, and ash just deoxidizes it. Well, against the Colorado potato beetle, I use fungicide solutions. I know that many gardeners have a negative attitude towards chemistry, but I think that in this case one cannot do without it. The main thing is not to get carried away.

Potato diseases. The worst of them is scab. And all its insidiousness lies in the fact that at first it’s even as if it’s not clear that the potato has fallen ill. Well, some rough spots of light brown color appear on the tubers. So what? Even on potatoes from stores, these are often found. So this is the first sign of the appearance of scab. Strawberries with such “marks” are quite suitable for eating, but not for planting. If nothing is done against it, then these spots will increase in size every year, and the potato will steadily begin to degenerate. You can successfully fight this scourge folk remedies, about which a lot has already been written in Dacha.

Another serious reason for degeneration is improper storage of the harvested crop.. If the tubers lie in a room where the temperature is kept around 0 °, then they freeze imperceptibly (according to their appearance this is far from always possible to determine), and when germinated, they give weak filamentous sprouts, which then will also barely grow. And if the storage temperature, on the contrary, is too high (exceeds 12 °), then the eyes quickly germinate in the tubers and the sprouts have to be repeatedly cut off. It is clear that such a potato, tired of the constant "curbing", in right time will not give a good harvest.

I will especially note that the degree of keeping quality also depends on the timely timing of harvesting. Hurry up and remove the tubers that are still in the growth stage, and it is still warm in the cellars at this time. What happens next is already described above. If you overexpose the potatoes in the beds, the tubers can then rot.

Another gardener (especially a beginner) may even think that it is impossible to do such a lot of things. Maybe! After all, everything that I have listed only looks intimidating on paper. It is only necessary to imagine in advance the entire front of the necessary work in order to avoid unexpected and unpleasant surprises in the process of growing second bread, and prepare an action plan in order to work in the garden slowly and without emergency work. No wonder they say that he who is warned is armed.

GROWING POTATOES IN THE KRASNODAR REGION - INTERESTING TECHNOLOGY: VIDEO

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