Raspberry, bright and fragrant, attracts attention with its high palatability And healing properties. It is useful for adults and children, its systematic use enriches the body with vitamins and microelements, even a couple of tablespoons of raspberry jam a day during the winter can prevent the occurrence of colds or viral infections. Raspberries in the garden are found on almost every suburban area, attractive to gardeners for its unpretentiousness, the ability to produce crops in the year of planting, to bear fruit until late autumn.

Planting raspberries - how to choose the right site

To determine the best place for planting raspberries, you can observe where it grows in the wild. These are forest clearings and light forests, edges, i.e. well-lit places, winter period snow drifts accumulate on them, providing excellent wintering for plants. Similar conditions should be created for the raspberries that will be planted in the garden.

The best option would be to plant bushes compactly in the corner of the garden, on a site protected from strong wind with good enough sunlight. When choosing a place, you should also focus on a territory with a deep occurrence (more than 1.5 m) of groundwater - raspberries will not tolerate waterlogged soil.

It will not be possible to get a good result even if the terrain of the site is swampy or saline. Poor fruiting will be observed on heavy clay soils. You can determine in advance the suitability of a site for planting raspberries by the way any fruit trees grow on it, their normal development is a guarantee that raspberry bushes will also be comfortable.

It is not recommended to plant raspberries on the southern slopes of hills - such places warm up well during thaws in winter, long thaws and warming up of the roots help reduce the winter hardiness of the plant, with the return of frost, especially if the temperature drops below -20 C, warmed plants can suffer greatly - get more frostbite escape parts.

Beginning gardeners should take into account that with frequent watering with a small amount of water, the plants will form surface roots, with rare and abundant watering, a part of the root system that lies in the deep layers of the soil will form more actively.

To prepare the site for planting you will need:

• remove everything from it weeds along with roots
• apply organic and mineral fertilizers,
• dig the whole area
• destroy the larvae found in the ground.

Experienced gardeners It is advised to use activated compost as organic fertilizer.

The hole in which the bush will be planted should have a diameter of about 30 cm and a depth of 30-35 cm. Before planting, it is filled with a mixture of humus, manure, rotten straw and foliage by about half. If several bushes are unlikely to be planted, then it is possible to dig not separate holes, but a trench and fertilize it. This method of planting is even more efficient - raspberry roots grow quickly and can take up quite a lot of space - within a radius of about 2 m around the bush, it's good if most of it is fertilized.

If the soils are sandy and very poor, then it is recommended to dig a ditch half a meter wide and the same depth, fill it with a mixture of soil with nutrients: humus, the remains of last year's foliage, twigs, it will be able to give more complete nutrition to plants through the root system developing in its thickness. The bottom of the moat, to retain moisture, can be covered with a 2-3 cm layer of red clay.

With increased acidity, up to 200 g of fluffy lime per 1 sq m of raspberry area can be introduced into the soil when digging. Wood ash introduced into the soil will also be useful.

It is best to plant raspberries in the fall, in late September - early October. In this case, it will have time to take root well, and in early spring it will be ready for full development and active growth. If planting raspberries is planned for spring, then this should be done early, when the condition of the thawed soil allows.

The recommended row spacing, regardless of whether the bushes will be planted singly or in a common trench, should be about one and a half meters, the distance between the bushes should be about 0.5-0.7 m. It is recommended to deepen the seedling into the ground about 5-7 cm deeper than he grew up in the previous place. This point is not difficult to determine, the part of the stem located above the soil surface has a different color and the border is seen quite clearly.

The roots of each seedling are straightened before planting, carefully placed in a moistened hole and covered with soil, trampled down. Then comes the time of watering, it is recommended to pour at least 10 liters of water under each bush. After the water has been absorbed, the ground should be covered with a layer of mulch, which can be used as fallen needles, straw, peat or humus.

Mulch will be effective in the event that its layer will have a thickness of about 6-8 cm.

• keep the looseness of the soil throughout this season,
• prevent active evaporation of moisture,
• inhibit the emergence and growth of weeds.

The planted bushes should be cut to 25-30 cm. It is impossible to cut the shoots completely - the substances accumulated by the plant that promote the growth of the root system are stored in their lower part, in addition, low pruning can slow down the appearance of replacement shoots, which will ultimately lead to the death of the plant.

During the autumn planting of raspberries, the plants are spudded, while the stem is covered by at least 10 cm. This simple procedure will help preserve all the lower buds.

When and how to prune raspberries

Raspberry fruiting begins on two-year-old shoots: shoots actively grow in the first year, lay in autumn flower buds. At the end of fruiting, they begin to dry out. Drying shoots should not be removed seasonally, but as they appear. Cleaning the bushes in the summer will ensure more active growth of young shoots, which are called replacement shoots.

With the onset of spring, one-year-old shoots will need to be cut by 15-20 cm. At the same time, they are guided by the location of the first large bud from above. The shortening of the shoots causes more active branching and contributes to the formation of more large berries. The second positive point is that shortening the branches makes them more stable and they will not lean to the ground under the weight of the pouring fruits.

Overwintered, but with damage and weak shoots, are subject to complete removal in the spring. In autumn, all fruiting shoots are subject to complete removal.

What to consider when choosing a method for growing raspberries

To date, four methods of growing raspberries are practiced:

• tape, when the width of plantings reaches 30-40 cm,
• nesting, with placement in rows of single bushes,
• on wallpaper,
• without the use of garter shoots.

Tape option cultivation involves the formation of a wide strip of shoots, they form it due to the root offspring of the mother bushes. Depending on the activity of the branching of the shoots and the height, their number is regulated: it is desirable that the remaining number of shoots makes it possible to obtain the maximum number of fruits, while allowing each branch to receive enough sunlight and warmth.

Insofar as modern varieties raspberries have significant differences in the height of fruit branches, their number and branching, then the formation of ribbons from shoots should be approached taking into account the characteristics of each of the varieties.

Nest method usually used if the beds are very small. A separate peg is used to tie each bush. The recommended distance between the bushes is one and a half meters, but it can increase depending on the length of the shoots that the planted variety gives. It is not difficult to take care of such plantings, problems can arise if during the fruiting period there are heavy rains- the bushes are poorly ventilated and the berries inside them can be affected by mold.

When growing raspberries on trellises with a narrow ribbon seedlings are planted in a row at a given distance, a certain distance between rows is also maintained. The method will require the installation of supports along each row and the manufacture of a trellis, which is usually a well-stretched metal wire.

Care is:

• in the uniform distribution of replacement shoots along the wire,
• removal of fruit-bearing twigs at the level of the ground surface - it will no longer be possible to get berries from them, but they will thicken the bush and take away some of its nutrients from it,
• removing excess root shoots with a sharp shovel or pruner - a large amount of it can significantly reduce yields.

The least effective in practice is the cultivation of raspberries without garter:

• shoots form dense thickets,
• branches with a crop lie on the ground, thereby causing damage to the berries,
• strong shading reduces the very possibility of laying buds on the shoots.

If, when growing the same large-fruited variety on trellises, you can get about 200 kg of berries, then when tied to stakes, the yield will decrease by about 3 times, and when grown without a tie, by 6 times.

Growing raspberries - secrets from experienced gardeners that will help you get high yields

Gardeners who have recently started growing raspberries often complain about failures:

• berries are damaged by insects,
• bushes grow poorly, or vice versa,
• shoots grow extremely actively, but do not bear fruit.

In this case, the variety is usually blamed, attempts are made to replace the plants with new ones. But before taking drastic measures, one should analyze the cause, perhaps the matter is not at all in the variety, but in improper care?

raspberry care - timing of fertilizing and watering

To ensure the active development and fruiting raspberry bush should be provided with nutrients and water. That's why mandatory procedure there should be a sufficient amount of organic and mineral fertilizers in the soil. The main ones are potash and nitrogen, phosphorus should not exceed 1/3 of the introduced potash and nitrogen. Top dressing with slurry can be performed:

• the first - during the period of bud break,
• the second - in 10 days,
• the third - after another 2 weeks.

After fruiting, the plant will also need to replenish nutrients. During this period, you can use liquid top dressing, with the following composition:

• potassium sulfate - 15 gr,
• double superphosphate - 30 gr,
• water - 10 l.

As a top dressing, you can use a solution of nitroammophoska, mullein, diluted in a ratio of 1:6, chicken manure, diluted 1:12. First, the plant is watered abundantly, then nutrient mixtures are added, about 2 liters under each bush.

For normal fruiting per season, you will need to perform 3-4 top dressings and 6-7 full-fledged waterings. Watering should be carried out throughout the season, in a timely manner, in quantities to keep the soil moist.

Also useful is the introduction of wood, obtained from hardwood, ash in the amount of 200 g per 1 sq.m of area.

growing raspberries - how to loosen the soil

Loosening the beds with the onset of the first spring after planting is carried out in the most early dates- so as not to harm the root shoots that have appeared. The depth of loosening in rows should be about 6-8 cm, between rows - up to 12 cm. During the summer, weeding can be repeated several times, as a crust forms after watering and weeds emerge, but the maximum loosening depth should not exceed 5 cm.

Before wintering, the site is dug up - in rows to a depth of 10 cm, in row spacing - by 15 cm. It is necessary to ensure that the skeletal roots of plants are not damaged during digging, it is best to dig not with a shovel, but with a pitchfork. Throughout the season, shoots should be constantly removed, only planted bushes should remain. The thickening of the planting also leads to the grinding of fruits, because. shoots formed from the roots can take up to 50% of nutrients and moisture from plants.

The best option is to leave about 7 replacement shoots for each bush - this will allow you to get fairly large berries during each harvest.

Experts say that raspberry bushes are not prone to complete degeneration, but the root buds on them can mutate, usually for the worse. You can notice this negative phenomenon during flowering - the sepals will not be elongated. Tip - such bushes should be completely removed - large-fruited varieties should initially have elongated sepals. For remontant raspberry varieties, this change is not significant.

wintering features

Since it is almost impossible to predict how cold the winter will be, when growing raspberries in conditions middle lane need to take care of her reliable protection from frostbite.

Such a simple technique as bending the shoots to the ground and fixing them above the ground surface, using improvised means (boards, logs, metal brackets), will allow you to cover the raspberries with a layer of snow half a meter thick in winter without any problems. Bushes prepared in this way are practically not susceptible to frostbite, in practice it has been proven that they can withstand even the harsh Siberian winters. Raspberries should be opened at a time when the threat of late frost has passed.

harvest

The ripening of the berries of the first raspberry crop begins at the end of June.

This happens throughout the month. Since raspberries are distinguished by very tender fruits not intended for long-term storage, the berries should be harvested systematically, as they ripen, without overexposure to the stems.

Raspberry breeding

If you want to breed new varieties of raspberries, you will have to buy seedlings. It is best to contact specialized nurseries - planting material there is a fairly high quality.

If the site is already grown suitable varieties, then you can use the vegetative method of reproduction and use the bushes formed from the root processes. In addition, you can perform the usual division of the bush into several parts, but for this you should choose the most powerful bushes. Shoots for transplantation should be chosen those that have a shoot thickness of more than 1 cm and a washcloth-like, dense root system.

The productive period of raspberry bushes is from 12 to 20 years, while the characteristics of the raspberry variety, the correct care, frost resistance and the quality of tillage play a role.

How to grow raspberries: questions, answers, tips for amateur gardeners

Raspberries are a very useful plant that can be seen in almost every garden plot. This is one of the tastiest berries in our gardens. But who among us did not notice on the bushes, now worms, then some kind of clumsy, hardened berries? Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow tasty, sweet raspberries. We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.

How to choose the best place for planting raspberries?

Those gardeners are doing the right thing who set aside a corner of the garden for her on their site or plant it along the hedge. This makes it easier to take care of her. But still, the corner of the garden is preferable, since it accumulates there during the winter. a large number of snow.

What is the best soil for raspberries?

Fertile, moist soils are most suitable for growing. The best for her are sandy-clay, alluvial-meadow, which are more saturated with nutrients than others. Unacceptable for her heavy clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone.

How to prepare the soil for planting raspberries?

5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are applied to the area intended for planting - this is per 1 sq. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, dig it deep.

Do I need to plant several varieties of raspberries side by side for better pollination?

Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is no particular need to plant pollinating varieties nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties side by side, but this does not affect pollination.

When to plant raspberries?

The best time of the year for planting or transplanting seedlings is autumn - late August - September. In the spring, you can plant only as an exception.

How to plant raspberry seedlings?

Pits for planting raspberries usually have dimensions of 30x30x30 cm. The seedlings are positioned so that after filling with soil they are 6-7 cm below the ground. The roots must be carefully straightened and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions when watering, the soil is raked from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.

Do I need to prune raspberries after planting?

Necessary. If not pruned, then, firstly, it will give a small crop, secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will yield next year's crop, and thirdly, pruned plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with secateurs, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm tall.

How far apart should raspberry seedlings be planted?

Between rows, a distance of 1-1.2 m should be left, and between seedlings in a row - 50-60 cm.

How to propagate raspberries?

The main methods of reproduction are propagation by seeds, vegetatively. Reproduction by seeds in amateur gardening is practically not used. Usually, plants grown in this way rarely take valuable qualities from the original parent varieties. Vegetative way suggests using young shoots from the roots (root offspring) or dividing the bush for propagation. It's the cheapest fast way.

How, when and why to care for raspberry plantings?

If you do not take care of planting raspberries, then it will overgrow with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. There are few young shoots, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, the yield decreases.

Autumn digging between rows is required. First, excess young shoots are removed, and then they dig up the soil between the rows.

In the spring, before the buds open (end of March-April), the soil in the raspberries must be loosened. In the center between the rows deeper - 10-15 cm, and next to the plants - shallow - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

From the beginning of the appearance of leaves and until the collection of berries, they are loosened two more times.

After harvesting, they loosen again, and then do not touch the aisles until autumn - annual shoots should ripen well.

How, when to water and how much water do raspberries need when watering?

Raspberries love watering. Most moisture is required when it blooms, when it is tied, the berries ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) it is watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - at the end of May. Be sure to water 1-2 times when the berries are poured. Water for the last time after harvest.

Irrigation rate - 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through the furrows, which are made on both sides of the row at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.

How to cut raspberries?

Immediately after planting, the raspberry stalks are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut with secateurs to the ground, leaving no stumps.

As soon as the entire crop is harvested, all two-year-old shoots that had berries are cut out.

It is also recommended to prune in the spring, since after winter it is usually clear which shoots are weak, which ones were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are a lot of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.

How to rejuvenate raspberry bushes?

In older bushes, the number of young shoots usually decreases. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that yields can be restored by removing the old rhizome. In this case, there is an increase in the growth of young shoots. In parallel with the removal of the old rhizome, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are applied under raspberries. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.

How and what fertilize raspberries?

It is best for raspberries to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is applied in autumn during deep digging of row spacing. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before bud break during the first loosening. Potassium sulphate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dug up or loosen it.

How long, how many years can raspberries grow in one place?

At good care you can grow it for 12-15 years without changing the planting site.

What are the fungal diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

Blue-purple spotting (didimela)

Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cutting - the leaves fall off, and the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease - fungal spores overwinter on young raspberry shoots.

Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux liquid, HOM, others).

Drying of shoots (koniotirium)

This fungal disease manifests itself in the drying of shoots, sometimes along with berries.

Control measures: cut, burn the affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Anthracnose

Spores of the fungus infect shoots, berries, leaves, spots with a purple border appear on them.

Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots along with leaves, berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times in 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.

Raspberry leaf rust

With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but orange-yellow pimples are visible from the bottom of the leaf, which eventually acquire a dark rusty color - these are spores of the fungus. The fungus that causes the disease overwinters on fallen leaves.

Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In the spring, the obligatory first spraying after the leaves bloom, repeated - after two weeks.

Raspberry leaf spot

Signs of the disease: white-dirty spots appear on the leaves. Fungus spores overwinter on fallen leaves.

Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; fallen leaves are recommended to be burned.

What are the viral diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

Of the viral diseases, the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf venation, viral (infectious) chlorosis.

Witch's broom (growth, bushiness)

When diseased with a witch's broom, numerous thin shortened shoots form on the raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Berries are tied much less.

yellow mosaic

With yellow mosaic disease, pale green spots first appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.

yellow veining of leaves

With yellow venation of the leaves, yellow stripes appear along the veins.

Infectious (viral chlorosis)

With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by mid-summer the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, as in autumn.

All these diseases are viral in nature.

Control measures: root removal of diseased bushes; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, cicadas, others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Actellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.

How to prevent the appearance of worms in raspberry berries?

The culprit for the appearance of wormy berries is the raspberry beetle. It hibernates as an adult in the ground, appears in the spring, eats buds, flowers. Raspberry beetle females lay their eggs in buds, flower buds, green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in berries, feed on them, and pupate in the soil. This cycle is repeated once a year.

Control measures: in the fall, dig up the soil, that is, disturb the wintering place of the raspberry beetle. And in the spring, spray the bushes until the leaves appear with one of the following preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.

How to deal with raspberry agrilus?

Raspberry agrilus is a beetle of a light gray-greenish color. Female beetles lay their eggs in raspberry stems under the skin. The emerging larvae make spiral-shaped passages in the stems - the shoots die off.

Control measures - cutting, destruction (burning) of the affected shoots - this is the only way..

How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge?

Raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stalks. Larvae (worms) live in the stem, feed on its pulp. At the site of introduction of the larvae, cones appear on the stem, outgrowths, in which there is usually one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem at the site of the growth is easily broken. Sooner or later, nutrition stops coming to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die off ahead of time, the crop dies.

Control measures: cutting off the affected branches, burning them; treatment of raspberries with mosquito repellents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, walnut leaves, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, as mosquitoes begin their actions at nightfall, all night.

How to deal with raspberry kidney moth?

The raspberry bud moth butterfly begins its vigorous activity during the flowering of raspberries - lays eggs in a flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower, and then hides in the bark of the stem for the winter. In spring, the caterpillars penetrate into the kidneys, eat everything inside, and pupate there.

Control measures: spray during the swelling of the kidneys with a 30% solution of karbofos.

How to deal with leafworms, aphids and mites - raspberry pests?

leaf rollers

There are many varieties of leaflets. The common behavior for them is great mobility, when they are discovered, they begin to squirm violently and try to "escape" by descending on cobwebs. Leafworm caterpillars feed on leaves by buds. At the same time, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the sheet, which is why they are called leaflets.

Control measures: effective late-autumn and summer spraying with Actellik. In early spring, before bud break or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.

Aphid

Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, from shoots, berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl, the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are carriers of viral diseases.

Control measures. The drug Bi-58 is effective against aphids.

Ticks

A variety of mites cause great harm to raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small, tasteless. late autumn, in early spring before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with preparation No. 30, before the appearance of fruits - Bi-58.

How to deal with bacterial raspberry cancer?

It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are unstable to bacterial cancer. It is impossible to save diseased plants, they must be destroyed. Measures for the prevention of seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before buying, inspecting the roots - there should be no growths, thickenings. There are no drugs against bacterial raspberry cancer yet. Do not plant it in place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes at the site for several years.

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Raspberry care: pinching or tweezing shoots

Very often on gardening sites you can find the following statement: “Very important point raspberry care - pinching or tweezing shoots. Make a pinch of a young raspberry shoot - this will increase the yield several times. At the same time, neither the variety nor its features are indicated. But the tweezing method cannot be applied to all varieties of raspberries. Tweezing (translated from German) - removing the top of a young shoot by pinching with special tweezers, scissors or just fingers.

Pinching is one of the methods of agrotechnical measures for caring for bushes, their formation, and increasing the yield of raspberries. It is used to stop the growth of the main shoot upwards, to form a crown, to enhance the growth of the left branches. This method is used to “wake up” part of the kidneys on a young shoot, thus forming several lateral branches (laterals).

The first time I first learned about this method of increasing the yield of raspberries was from the old fifteen-year-old magazine “Family. Earth. Harvest". I tried. It didn't work right away. But I can already draw some conclusions. Now I successfully apply the pinching of young shoots in my area. Caring for this berry crop consists in timely pruning, watering or fertilizing. And pinching young shoots perfectly complements them. But this method can not be used on all varieties of raspberries.

First pinch do in the second year after planting, when the bush has at least two young replacement shoots (Fig. 1.2). If you pinch one (Fig. 1a), and leave the second untouched, then 3 laterals will grow on the pinched shoot (Fig. 1b). It happens 2 and 4. The second shoot (not pinched) does not give laterals. If you pinch both (Fig. 2a), then two or three laterals will grow on both (Fig. 2b). Rarely, but sometimes 6, mostly - 3-4. It all depends on the variety of raspberries, cultivation techniques.

second pinch do in the third year after planting. Fig. 3a shows 2 fruit-bearing stems and 3 replacement shoots. Pinching is done on the middle one, two lateral ones are left without pinching - they will not give lateral branches. The middle shoot shows 3 laterals (Fig. 3b). Maybe two to five.

Rice. 4a also shows the number of fruit-bearing replacement shoots, but all three were pinched. The number of laterals on the middle is 3, on the right - 2, on the left - none. Or maybe 2 or more.

In subsequent years, the number of pinching options may be different. Everything will depend on the number of fruiting stems, replacement shoots, years of life of the bush. As soon as the replacement shoots began to grow less compared to last year, it means that the life of the bush ends, the pinching stops.

Before proceeding with this operation, you need to know the raspberry variety, its reaction to pinching.

Pinching begins when the young replacement shoots reach a height of more than 1.2 m, that is, they exceed the trellis wire so that they can be tied up. This pinching period begins around May 25 and continues until mid-June. Sometimes the deadline is extended to a maximum of June 20-25, if the spring is late.

Pinching starts from the second year after planting a standard two-year-old seedling with a good root system, when the bush has at least two strong replacement shoots.

Pinching only tall varieties of raspberries, which do not have the ability to branch - Bryansk, Meteor, Sunny, Balsam, Combi, Companion, Brigantine, Latham, Prussen Berlin, others. Pinch up to 10 cm of the top of a young replacement shoot.

Everyone undersized varieties raspberry pinching is not needed. Usually these are those that give a lot of replacement shoots, or specially form a bush, leaving a lot of fruit-bearing stems or replacement branches, in total up to 20 or more.

In any year, pinching should be carried out on no more than 50% of replacement shoots.

Pinching carried out later - July, for example, gives negative results. Lateral branching-literals will grow short, will not have time to lignify well before the first autumn frosts, that is, the epidermis of the shoots will not be frost-resistant, and even if it withstands the first autumn frost, it can freeze out in Christmas or Epiphany frosts, or will not be able to withstand a cold, long winter.

Late pinching on remontant raspberry varieties sharply reduces the first autumn harvest in young replacement shoots. Not all of the buds will bloom, not all of the inflorescences will tie, the fruits that have started will not all ripen, with a cold snap they can hang, do not ripen for 10-15 or more days, and if they ripen, the berries will be small.

After pinching, the period of awakening of the kidneys, the growth of lateral branches lasts about 10 days. If you do not pinch, then during this time the central shoot would grow up about one meter or more. That is, by pinching off the top of the central branch, we slow down the development of the plant. This slowdown has a negative effect on the autumn harvest of some remontant varieties. Individual fruits do not have time to ripen before the first autumn frost.

Some summer raspberry varieties are prone to branching without pinching. They independently form up to 3-4 branching-laterals. Such varieties do not need pinching. This scarlet sail, Cascade Bryansk, Kokinskaya, Skromnitsa, Novosti Kuzmina, others.

Of the remontant varieties, for example, I pinch only Indian Summer, since the variety after pinching gives up to 15-17 lateral branching-laterals.

The remontant variety Progress does not need to be pinched, as this is a variety of late autumn fruiting. A fruit twig, like a bunch of grapes, grows alone at the top of a young replacement shoot, with a total number of buds, inflorescences, fruits up to 300, sometimes up to 400. If you pinch, then there will be no such bunch. 2-3 lateral branches will appear, they will bloom, some of the fruits will set, and they will not have time to ripen before the first autumn frosts. As a rule, the clusters, along with the branch branches, freeze, and everything has to be cut off. The remaining young shoots are low, summer harvest raspberries next year is declining.

On the Progress variety, it is recommended to pluck 50% of buds, inflorescences, small fruits in the ovary stage. The remaining 50% of the fruits will be large, one hundred percent yield of marketable fruits until the first autumn frosts is ensured, and the yield increases.

In all remontant raspberry varieties of non-tree groups, in which, on young replacement shoots in autumn, the crop is located at the top in a compact brush (Progress) or the fruit twig has several branches (Tachanka, Lloyd George, Meteor, Zhuravlik, Lesnaya, and other varieties), pinching is not necessary .

Now there are many new wonderful varieties of raspberries. Nothing is impossible about any without practical application to say whether the yield will increase or not after pinching the young shoots. All that is described above was tested empirically. Some varieties responded well to pinching with a significant increase in yield, while in others it, on the contrary, decreased.

Planting and transplanting raspberries, caring for seedlings

Most often we grow raspberries with red fruits, but there are varieties with purple, black or yellow berries. Various ripening dates allow you to enjoy the harvest from mid-summer to autumn. Raspberries should not grow in one place for more than four years. But planting or transplanting raspberries to a new place, caring for seedlings is not such an easy process - everything must be done skillfully. Usually the berries ripen in the middle of summer on shoots that grew last year. But there are raspberry varieties that produce two crops a year.

Berries are rich in fiber, contain vitamin A, folic acid, antioxidants, and numerous minerals. The juice contains vitamin C, and the tiny seeds contain vitamin E.

Raspberries are very susceptible viral diseases. For this reason, it is especially important to plant only plants obtained from a completely reliable source in your area.

Raspberries grow best in full sun, but this condition is not always easy to achieve in small garden and, if necessary, the plant will tolerate some shade. She likes more acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.5). In alkaline soil, it will seriously suffer from an excess of iron and a deficiency of manganese. The soil should not be dry during flowering and fruit ripening.

Planting raspberry seedlings too deep is the most common mistake gardeners make. When planting, the roots should be buried no more than 8 cm. If the seedlings have just arrived from the nursery, then you can see the old soil level on the stems - this is, as it were, an indicator of the correct planting depth.

The fastest way to plant raspberries is to dig a trench the width of your shovel. When you install the seedlings in the dug trench, straighten the roots, cut off any damaged parts. Immediately after planting, cut the shoots, they can be no more than 60 cm high.

So that you do not get upset later because of the lack of a crop, do not grow it in one place for more than four years, and then transplant it to a new place. Many gardeners know about this. But most often, the size of our garden plots is not so large, so all raspberry bushes are immediately transplanted. There is usually no harvest the following year. Small, low-cut seedlings with their harvest can only please children who have come to visit. To get a consistently high yield every year, you can apply one of the two planting methods below.

Method one. In a new place, it is best to plant raspberries after potatoes, onions or tomatoes. Pits for planting are prepared in advance, in fact, a year before planting. At the end of July, it is necessary to dig holes half a meter in size in depth, width and length. The gap between them should be about the same as their width. Each planting hole should be filled with a bucket of rotted manure, compacted, covered with earth from above. It is desirable to fertilize the earth beforehand: 35-40 grams of ammophos, 10 grams of potassium salt or 60-80 grams of wood ash.

The following year, we select from the bushes at the end of July and the first half of August, replacement shoots or well-developed offspring of raspberries are transplanted to prepared places. After planting, the tops of each plant should be trimmed by only 10-15 cm. It is advisable to tie the plants to a peg or trellis. Pour plenty of water over each hole (6-8 liters). After two or three days, it is useful to fertilize raspberry seedlings with straw rabbit droppings or any other organic fertilizer.

If you do everything in the indicated way, then raspberries will take root well before frost. In the first year after planting, it will give a good harvest.

Method two. After harvesting, remove the fruiting raspberry stems, leaving only 1-2 replacement shoots. In order for them to develop well by the end of the growing season, young shoots must be systematically removed. It is advisable to loosen the earth between the rows of raspberries well, spud the bushes, and tie the plants to the trellis. Manure mulch should be added to the soil before hilling. If the autumn turned out to be dry, then the bushes will periodically have to be well watered.

In the spring, with the onset of heat, the soil with which the raspberry bushes were piled up must be leveled, slightly loosened between its rows. As in the first planting method, the tops of the shoots should be cut off by 10-15 cm, and the damaged ones should be cut to a healthy place. When the first leaves open, they grow a couple of centimeters, cut the roots around the bush with a full bayonet of a shovel and carefully pull the bush out of the ground. Without damaging young shoots, rhizomes, remove the remnants of old stems. Dip the roots of raspberry bushes in clay talker. In the pits prepared in the fall by the planting method described above, plant young plants. In the autumn-spring period, take care of the soil by watering the bushes, removing weeds, and mulching the ground.

As practice shows, if we compare these two methods of planting and transplanting, then in areas where raspberries were planted with already formed leaves, the yield is much higher.

Raspberry pests: how to deal with gall midge

There are many pests that love raspberries. Various larvae, borers, beetles, worms are creatures that feed on foliage, fruits, stems of this plant. They can cause premature yellowing or even fall of the leaves, they can damage the berries, deprive you of the pleasure of eating them. What are the most dangerous raspberry pests? Very dangerous pest, which can significantly reduce yields, and sometimes completely destroy your raspberries - gall midge. The main symptom is the thickening of the stems, growths on them. How to deal with gall midge, improve the quality and quantity of the crop?

Gallica

Gall midges are of two types: shoot and stem.

The first view is shoot gall midge. From the second half of summer until late autumn, raspberry stems form ring swellings - growths or bumps. They are usually found at the bottom of the stem, closer to the root. Outer tissue - the epidermis cracks. The internal nutrient medium of the stem is turned into dust by the gall midge larva. The stem breaks easily in this place. As a rule, there is one swelling on the shoot and one larva inside. Sometimes there are two or three swellings on the stem with different distances from each other. Rarely, but there are up to 5-7 such cones on the shoot.

Gall midge on young raspberry shoots

Break the stem at the site of swelling - find a larva 10-12 mm long. In color, it is light yellow or light green, depending on the juice that it feeds on. From the place of swelling, the gall midge larva moves upward in a spiral up to 20 cm or more. In the initial stage of development in its nest - gall - it is very small, lives, develops alone. Upon reaching a certain age, the larvae climbs onto the surface of the shoot, descends into the soil. The gall midge crawls out of the soil, having already turned into a small mosquito. Mosquito females lay their eggs under the bark or in cracks in the stem (by the way, very often raspberry bark cracks from overfeeding with nitrogen). Then gall midge larvae appear there again, which penetrate inside the stem - everything starts all over again.

During the growing season, several generations of gall midges develop, there is a continuous wave of formation of new galls on raspberry stems. This continues until the first autumn frosts. The larvae of the last generation overwinter in the soil at different depths (up to 30 cm or deeper) at different distances from the affected shoot, that is, over the entire raspberry planting area.

Gall midges are very mobile. If, when loosening the soil, the larva is on top, then after two or three minutes it will crawl into the ground, then it is difficult to find it. There were cases when I found 2-3 larvae in galls in the spring. Apparently, these were individuals of late rotation. Autumn-winter were warm.

Control measures. This is a fight against a mosquito, laying eggs and a larva. I will share my observations, methods, conclusions. Small mosquitoes (mosquitoes) love to settle on raspberry varieties that suffer from didimella - purple spotting. It is against her that the main struggle must be waged.

In the spring, as soon as the buds on the stems begin to bloom, I do pinching - I cut the buds from the bottom with ordinary scissors to a height of 50-80 cm, depending on the length of the shoot. These kidneys are unproductive.

I spray the stems with 1% Bordeaux liquid to prevent the mass spread of didimella fungus. Spraying can also be done before bud break. During the growth of young shoots of replacement or shoots, I do a three-time pinching - I cut off the lower leaves.

From the beginning of July, I begin to cut the fruiting stems from early varieties, then medium, and by mid-July I finish cutting the stems of raspberries of late fruiting. The goal is to prevent the spread of the didimella fungus in a timely manner.

Then I proceed to the main spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid or any other copper-containing preparation young shoots replacement and shoots. I spray the exposed part of the shoots to the first leaves, because mass flowering occurs on remontant varieties at this time, fruits begin to set. I spray at the end of the day when there are no bees. The goal is to prevent the incidence of didimella in young shoots.

Midge midge females “understood” my goal, they begin to lay their eggs in the upper part of the shoots - it will be easier for us to detect them there. Most of all, oviposition occurs on single-crop varieties, less on remontant raspberry varieties.

During the season, before the first autumn frosts, systematically, at least once a week, it is necessary to inspect raspberry bushes, cut off shoots with galls in the initial stage. Cut the affected shoot, detect, be sure to destroy the larva, prevent it from leaving the soil.

When the swellings (galls) have grown, the larvae are clearly visible. Unfortunately, this method of struggle is not always successful. You cut the shoot, but there is no gall midge larva, it is already in the ground. Sometimes it is simply difficult to see galls in time when they are not yet clearly expressed.

If in the spring, above the swelling, the buds do not bloom, cut off the affected shoot 1-2 cm lower. On the remaining stem, it can be up to 1 m and higher, do not pinch (pruning the blossoming buds), they will bear fruit normally.

The second species is the stem gall midge. It affects young shoots of replacement, shoots. The stems are not affected. On the shoots are formed lateral outgrowths-cones of indefinite shape. The outer cover of the shoot epidermis does not crack. Inside the growth live, hibernate larvae up to 2 mm in size, light yellow or orange, 5, rarely up to 7 pcs. Apparently, this is why the name is such a stem gall midge.

In spring, during flowering, mosquitoes appear from larvae, females lay eggs on young shoots. The emerging gall midge larvae are introduced into the shoot, where they continue to live, overwinter, and develop. One rotation per season, one generation.

Growths are found from August to November. During the autumn-winter period, the larvae infect the entire interior of the shoot, turning it into dust, immediately hibernate. This type of gall midge is rare; it is not terrible for raspberries.

Control measures. When a build-up is found, I cut it off with a knife, remove all the contents on a piece of paper, together with the larvae of the gall midge, with a sharp object, and destroy it. I cover up the wound garden pitch, you can grease, cement, clay or any oil paint. This is the only available, effective method of dealing with this type of disease. The shoots bear fruit normally.

I noticed on raspberries other types of growths in the lower part of young replacement shoots - in the form of a ring, acute-angled and round spherical shape. They are very rare. When cutting the site of the growth (the inside of the stem is not broken), you can see several black dots, but I did not see the larva, maybe it is, but it can probably only be detected under a microscope. What kind of pest or disease I do not know. I did not cut the shoots. They fruit normally.

What can be done so as not to lose the harvest?

• I recommend that you always leave one or two young replacement shoots in the bush for a reserve, depending on the size of the bush, its age. As a rule, one shoot is affected by gall midge in a bush, rarely two shoots.
• Grow varieties that are resistant to all diseases and pests.
• Use mosquito repellents from raspberries - infusions of tobacco, mullein, walnut leaves, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, as mosquitoes begin their actions after dark and all night.
• Gallica does not like onions, garlic - you can even plant raspberries between the rows perennial onion- batun, chives and others.
• A good effect is obtained from the organized, simultaneous, timely work of all gardeners to combat gall midge.

Watch the video to see what raspberry stalks look like when attacked by stem gall midge. I just want to warn you, the authors of the video advise treating raspberries with drugs against leaf-eating pests. Against the gall midge, this method will not work.

Raspberry tree or standard raspberry: varieties and care

Standard Raspberry Penguin

I want to introduce you to the experience of Mikhail Vasilievich Gulenin in growing standard raspberry varieties. Standard raspberry (popular name - raspberry tree)- one of the newest promising areas of raspberry production. The first plants of this type in our country were obtained in Moscow at the Institute of Horticulture VSTISP (1987) by Professor V. V. Kichina from crossing the donor standard-1 with the Stolichnaya variety. Since 1993, this has been a new variety of Tarusa, which has become a breakthrough in Russian agronomic science.

At the end of the 90s, the standard variety Krepysh was obtained in VSTISP, in the early 2000s - Skazka.

Standard raspberry Tarusa

Tarusa, burly And Fairy tale- raspberry varieties of standard non-repairable type with a fruiting period in the Kuban from mid-June to mid-July.

Standard raspberry shoots are upright, stocky, up to 1.5 m high with dense wood and a non-drooping top, very similar to small strong raspberry trees. These qualities make it possible to grow such plants without special supports, trellises and garters, which significantly reduces the cost, facilitates the care of plantations, and allows them to be cultivated in the field. Fruit buds along the stem are located very densely in 1-2 cm, therefore, during flowering and fruiting, the plants look very elegant.

The people dubbed such raspberries as "raspberry tree". Varieties Krepysh and Skazka outperform Tarusa in berry quality. The berries are ruby, large from 4 to 10 g, beautiful conical shape, dense, with good removal and transportability. Tarusa has light red berries, 4-8 g.

At the Kokinsky stronghold of the VSTISP branch, under the guidance of Professor I.V. Kazakov, work was also carried out in this direction, but only for repair raspberries. In 1994, scientists S.N. Evdokimenko and V.L. Kulagina received the first in Russia remontant variety standard type - Eurasia, bred from seeds from free pollination of interspecific remontant forms. As a variety, it has been breeding since 2005.

Variety Eurasia has upright shoots up to 1.2 m, large, dark crimson berries 4-5 g conical, dense. Fruiting begins at the end of July, berry picking stretches for two months. Before winter, all stems are completely cut to the ground.

Young shoot of standard raspberry Penguin

Later, the same scientists of the Kokinsky stronghold obtained a standard remontant variety Penguin suitable for both manual harvesting and machine harvesting. The bushes are upright, non-lodging, the height of the bush is 1.1-1.3 m, the berries are dark crimson, round-conical, large 4-5 g, dense. The grade differs in high keeping quality and transportability. After ripening, the fruits can hang up to 5 days without loss of quality. The beginning of fruiting in the Kuban is from mid-July. Fruiting is friendly until the end of August, fully yields the crop. The second wave of harvest on late shoots from October until frost. All shoots before winter are cut to ground level.

Standard raspberries, like ordinary raspberries, love well-lit areas with fertile, well-drained soil. Rows for better lighting preferably placed from south to north.

The soil must be prepared in advance (for a month). A strip 60 cm wide is being prepared, into which buckets of humus, 150 g of nitroamofoska, a glass of ash are added per 1 linear m 2. Dig up the earth on a spade bayonet or loosen it with a motor cultivator.

Raspberries can be planted from mid-September to late autumn, in spring from early March to late April, and even in winter, if soil and weather permit.

Standard raspberry seedlings have one line 50 cm apart. In the dug hole add 1 tbsp. l. nitroammofoski, place a seedling, cover the roots with earth, trying to deepen root collar no more than 2-3 cm. Then the shoots are cut off above the ground, leaving 25-30 cm. The earth around the bush is mulched with humus, watered with water at the rate of 5 liters per bush.

In the spring, against the spread of fungal, bacterial diseases, raspberry bushes must be treated in March with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid and in May before flowering - with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or topaz 10 ml per 10 liters of water.

Great damage to raspberry plantations is caused by the gale mosquito. Against him, young shoots during the mass flight of the mosquito are sprayed on about May 10 and 20 with one of the solutions: Aktelik or Bi-58 - 15 ml per 10 liters of water. The same treatment must be repeated at the end of July, when the second generation of the mosquito comes out.

Standard raspberries are also demanding on watering, especially during fruiting, so they must be carried out throughout the growing season in about 5-7 days (about 5 liters per bush). So that the land does not dry out in summer, from the end of May, the soil is mulched with a layer of up to 5 cm with rice or sunflower husks, mowed grass, etc. In early spring (in March), plants are fed with a solution of urea - 50 g per 10 l of water (enough for 3 bushes) or infusion of chicken, mullein.

In May, before flowering, they are fed with a solution of nitroamophoska or nutrivant drip - 2 tbsp. l. Ten liters of water for 3 bushes.

A good effect is given by foliar feeding on the leaf once a month, starting from the moment of budding with solutions with a set of microelements "Ryazanochka for berry crops"- 1 tsp per 10 liters of water or "Nutrivant plus fruit" - 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

Under adverse weather conditions (frost, heat, sunburn), mechanical damage, the oppressed plants are sprayed with the anti-stress preparation "Aminokat 30%" - 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. At the end of July, in the standard varieties of Tarusa, Krepysh, Skazka, only shoots that bear fruit are cut out. At the end of September, bushes are formed: 5-6 of the strongest shoots are left on 1 bush and the top is cut by 10-15 cm.

In the remontant standard varieties Penguin and Eurasia, which bear fruit on annual shoots from the end of July, the entire aerial part is removed before winter. Only the root hibernates. This allows you to improve the bushes, avoid diseases, reduce the number of pests, get a guaranteed harvest for the next year.

Interest in breeding and growing raspberries in the Kuban among gardeners is constantly growing. Now, with the advent of standard varieties, it is possible for farmers or farms to cultivate large areas of this crop without trellises and garters, which reduces labor costs. Raspberry farming is one of promising areas in agriculture. With proper care, following the cultivation technology, gardeners and farmers can achieve high yields of this beautiful berry, which is always in demand in the markets of the Kuban.

When writing, the materials of the newspaper "Niva Kuban" with the application "Nivushka", 2014, No. 8, were used. and website http://ogorod23.ru

No one will refuse raspberries in their summer cottage. It is not difficult to buy and plant raspberries - but they will grow in one place for several years, so this place should be chosen and equipped carefully. What plants should not be planted next to raspberries? What fertilizer should be applied when planting? We share information for which now, in August, is the time.

Planting raspberries

It is best to plant raspberries in late summer - from mid-August to mid-September. But you can transplant it from one place to another in the spring and even in the middle of summer, if you want to plant young shoots. For landing, it is recommended to choose a sunny place. The soil is improved by adding rotted compost (1-2 buckets per plant). They deoxidize with ash (a liter jar under a bush) or add a glass of lime.

As soon as you buy raspberries, the planting material must immediately be shortened, leaving the stems only 20-25 cm high. If you are planting young growth from your plantation, then it should also be shortened before planting to the same height. Otherwise, raspberry leaves, evaporating moisture, will dry out the stem, which is not supplied with moisture, until the bush has taken root and sucking roots have appeared.

It is usually recommended to plant two plants at once together. Before planting, the roots must be immersed in water for at least two hours so that they are saturated with moisture, it’s a good idea to add Kornevin or Heteroauxin to the water. But one should not keep the roots in the water any longer. long time, as they will lose all the potassium they contain, and this will lead to a weakening of the plant at an early stage of engraftment.

IN landing pits or trenches, everything that was indicated above should be applied, soak the soil well with water, so that the plants are planted in the mud. Make mounds, spread the roots on them (broken or dry ones should be cut out beforehand) and cover them with dry soil. In the trench, the bushes are planted on mounds located 80 cm apart. Then the trench is completely covered with soil. The soil after planting is not compacted, but only slightly pressed around the raspberry stalks.

When planting raspberries, I immediately add 1 tbsp. spoon complex fertilizer AVA and I don’t feed raspberries with anything else for three years, after which I plant another 1 tbsp in the soil around each bush. spoon of this fertilizer for the next three years.

In order not to engage in weekly watering, I plant new bushes on Aquadon or hydrogel (2 cups of gel per bush). This gives me the opportunity to water the raspberries for two years in a week in dry weather, provided that the plantings are mulched.

How to arrange raspberries on the site

There is different ways growing raspberries. Often it is planted in a large curtain, placing plants according to the 50 × 50 cm pattern evenly over the entire area, while the stems are buried in the soil when planted by 3-4 cm. If you plant raspberries deeper, the stem may rot, and if higher, then there is a danger of freezing landings in winter.

Everything ends with planting, because there is no further care for raspberries. It grows by itself, like in a forest. Top dressing is not done, old stems are not cut out, leaves are not removed. Only watered from a hose on the soil in dry weather. The underground part of the raspberry lives for about 12 years, so after this time the curtain will have to be moved to another place.

However, more often raspberries are grown along the boundaries of the site in one or two rows, placing the bushes at a distance of 80 cm from each other, and the rows at a distance of 1 m. The width of the row for raspberries should be about 40 cm. cut, otherwise the raspberries will spread around the plantings for quite a long distance. When planting in rows, it is more convenient to dig not separate holes for each bush, but a continuous trench in which to plant plants.

Raspberries can be planted in single bushes throughout the site on sunny places. But then, before planting, a segment is driven in in the center of the future bush water pipe about 2 m long, deepening it into the ground by at least 40-50 cm. Having planted two plants at once on both sides of the pipe, as you grow, you will tie them to this support, simply pulling all the stems into a bundle with a rope.

Several should be planted different varieties because raspberries require pollination. In addition, it is necessary to have varieties of different ripening periods in the raspberries.

Raspberry seeds are mainly dispersed by birds. In bird stomachs, the seeds themselves are not processed, only the strong seed coat softens slightly, which contributes to their rapid germination. When propagating raspberries with seeds, one should remember this and scarify the seeds before sowing (break the seed coat by rolling the seeds on sandpaper) or soak for about half an hour in a weak solution of hydrochloric acid or in gastric juice (sold in a pharmacy).

Neighbor plants for raspberries: good and not so

Raspberries perfectly coexist with apple, pear, plum, but they absolutely cannot stand cherries: even planted 2-3 m from it, raspberries begin to wither, become stunted, and bear fruit poorly.

Raspberries should not be planted close to sea buckthorn and blackcurrant, since all these plants have roots in the same layer of soil. Sea buckthorn will gradually drive raspberries out of their place, and raspberries will sprout in the middle of blackcurrant bushes, oppressing the latter.

You can not plant raspberries next to strawberries, and not only because their roots are located at the same depth, but also because they have common diseases and pests. It is not recommended to set up a raspberry plantation after tomatoes and potatoes.

How to tie a raspberry

The raspberries, which took root last summer, leave no more than 4 young shoots in the bush for the next season. If more than 4 young shoots are left, the bushes thicken greatly, which leads, on the one hand, to poor lighting, and consequently, to a drop in productivity, and on the other hand, to the spread of fungal diseases.

If you grow raspberries in rows, then be sure to tie up the stems, otherwise they will begin to lean towards the soil under the weight of berries or wet foliage, and this can lead to breakage of the stem at the base. To hold the stems in a vertical position, 2-3 horizontal trellises of strong wire or cord are pulled, which are fixed on stakes driven into the ground at a distance of 2-3 m from each other.

If you make 2 such fences at a distance of 40 cm from each other on both sides of the plantings, then the raspberries can not be tied to the trellises. If there is only one fence, then you will have to tie the stems to each of the horizontal trellises.

If, however, the fences are moved apart to a width of about 50-60 cm, then last year's shoots can be tied to one side, from which we will harvest, and there will be enough space for the young shoots that have appeared. It will not be shaded by fruit-bearing branches. As they grow, young shoots should be tied to the trellis of the second fence. Thus, you will separate last year's and young shoots. This greatly facilitates the care of plants.

So that the raspberries do not creep out of the allotted place, you must either dig slate to a depth of 30 cm and limit the plantings on both sides, or every spring and autumn, cut through the restrictive lines along the plantings on the bayonet of the shovel. But you can do otherwise - leave a turf about 40 cm wide on each side along the raspberry plantings, along which you constantly walk, trampling down the grass. Raspberries do not like dense soil and will not spread their roots into a trodden spot.

If, nevertheless, the growth appears in the wrong place, it should be removed by cutting it with a sharp shovel and tearing it up with roots. It is useless to cut raspberry shoots with secateurs, as it will grow even thicker.

How many raspberries can grow in one place

With any method of planting, raspberries should not be kept in one place for more than 8-10 years. She has practically ceased to bear fruit. And not just because it's outdated. root system or a large number of diseases and pests have accumulated. There is another side of the matter, which for some reason is not paid much attention to.

The fact is that the roots of all plants emit toxins in order to suppress the growth of the roots of other plants adjacent to them. But with long-term cultivation of the same plant in one place, these toxins accumulate too much, and they begin to inhibit the plant itself that releases them.

Each plant has its own length of time during which this process takes place. So, when growing lettuce in the same place, the influence of its own toxins begins to affect already in the third generation. In peonies, the process stretches for 15 years, and in raspberries, it occurs in about 8-9 years. Even with the rejuvenation of the bush, the plants remain oppressed, since not only the renewal of the plant itself is required, but also a change of soil.

Discussion

how everything is fine.

07/14/2018 09:07:25, Aigul

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August, planting raspberries: how to choose a place and what fertilizers are needed. It is best to plant raspberries at the end of summer - from mid-August to The soil after planting is not compacted, but only slightly squeezed around the raspberry stems.

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Raspberries are often called the queen of the garden. This name is well deserved, because it is one of the most popular berry crops grown in household plots. Raspberry has earned the love of summer residents because both sweet fragrant berries, leaves, and even shrub twigs are used in cooking. However, the plant is picky in planting and care. Consider how to plant raspberries in the summer.

Plant features

Raspberry is a perennial deciduous shrub. In one place, this representative of the genus Rubus can grow for 5-8 years or more, without losing high yields. Remontant varieties are distinguished by the fact that they bear fruit several times a year.

Reference. An interesting feature raspberries is that the berries appear on lignified stems of the second year. After fruiting, the branch dries up. A year later, new replacement shoots grow from the rhizome.

After 5-7 years at the raspberry bush at the base of the last year's shoot, instead of two or three, only one bud sprouts. The more years the shrub, the less fruit-bearing replacement shoots it forms. Therefore, the bush needs rejuvenation. And in order to always have fresh raspberries on the table, the gardener needs to know how to properly plant and care for her.

fruiting raspberries

A characteristic feature of most varieties is its ability to grow rapidly:

• the root system can take a diameter of about 4 m, and the depth of the roots is 1.5 m. This property helps the shrub to better tolerate drought, but adversely affects the yield;
• in summer, adventitious roots form many weak buds in the form of tubercles, from which root shoots grow by the next season. They are cut with a shovel by 5-7 cm. If you do not prevent the appearance of such shoots, the quality of fruiting will decrease.

Varieties and groups of raspberries

Depending on the degree of density, raspberry varieties are divided into three groups:

• the first group includes the varieties Gusar, Skromnitsa, Meteor, Indian summer. They can be planted quite close, as the shrubs are distinguished by a moderate amount of overgrowth. The number of replacement shoots in most cases equals the number of fruit-bearing stems;
• the second group includes varieties that are characterized by a rare growth of shoots. Such shrubs have a loose appearance - these are Hercules, Maroseyka, Pokus;
• the third group consists of varieties that abundantly give young shoots. Shrubs of the Heritage variety, Polan will need to be thinned out.

Raspberry propagation

Raspberry varieties Hercules

Propagating a shrub vegetatively is available in several ways:

1. The division of the bush. This procedure is carried out in the spring before bud break or at the end of the season after leaf fall.
2. Root offspring. In autumn, planting material with well-developed roots and bud rudiments is chosen.
3. Young offspring. In summer, raspberry shrubs are propagated by cuttings in the first decade of June.

Important! If the gardener does not want to destroy the shoots and use it more rationally - better way than using it to propagate raspberries is hard to imagine. But in order to get healthy and strong bushes, you should clearly follow some rules for planting raspberry cuttings: choosing a place, preparing the site and cuttings, and planting technology.

Choosing a place for planting raspberries

In addition to the fact that raspberries prefer places well lit by the sun and protected from the wind, you need to take into account some more nuances of choosing a site:

• it is undesirable to place raspberries in the beds where strawberries, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes were previously planted;
• it is not recommended to breed perennials again on those soils where there were old raspberries;
• a favorable place is the soil after harvesting parsley, dill, onion, garlic, legumes, calendula;
• it will be extremely successful to place young plantings in the area after the alkaloid lupine - it perfectly cleans the soil from the beetle, which causes irreparable harm to the raspberries.

Site preparation

The soil for raspberries must meet the following conditions:

1. The composition of the soil is light loam.
2. Groundwater - no deeper than 1.5 m.
3. The earth should contain a large amount of fluorine and calcium.

Raspberry varieties Heritage

Before planting under raspberries, a nutrient soil mixture is prepared:

• 10 kg of humus or compost;
• 400 g of ash;
• 100 g of superphosphate;
• 50 g of potassium sulfate.

Preparing cuttings for planting

Planting material, whether it be shoots or root cuttings, must be prepared:

1. Old, weak and damaged roots should be cut off.
2. Treat the cut points with crushed charcoal.
3. Cut off the top of the seedling - the shoot should be no more than 20 cm long.
4. All leaves on the shoot are removed.
5. The stalk is placed in water for a while, before planting, shake and straighten the remaining roots.

Reference. To propagate a favorite variety, a gardener needs only one single lignified shoot, green offspring or root cutting no more than 10 cm long, 3-5 mm in diameter. If there is a choice, it is preferable that the cuttings are larger and already have buds.

trench preparation

Raspberries are planted in rows in trenches. The distance between seedlings is kept 50-80 cm, between rows - about 1 m. The trenches are prepared in the following sizes:

• width - 60-70 cm;
• depth - 40-50 cm.

Row aisles are mulched to keep weeds out. Sometimes it is enough to throw sheets of old cut linoleum there. In the future, this will greatly simplify the care of raspberries.

At the edges of the rows, columns are dug in, between which 2-3 wires are pulled. Later, raspberries will be tied to them. A third of the trench is filled with prepared nutrient soil mixture. After planting the seedlings, the remaining volume is covered with a layer of fertile soil.

Planting raspberries

Raspberry cuttings can be planted in several ways. The simplest is planting seedlings of 2 pcs. in one landing hole:

1. The cuttings are immersed in the ground to the depth of the thumb.
2. After planting, the earth is not recommended to be compacted, the soil around the seedlings is slightly pressed.
3. Each cutting is tied at the top to a stretched wire. In the future, you will need to tie up the shoots growing from the roots.
4. Watering requires moderate, mainly in dry weather.

If there are few cuttings, they are advised to use them as sources of sprouts, which are subsequently rooted. For this:

• when the cuttings begin to peek out of the ground, they are spudded and the nutrient mixture is poured on top to a thickness of 2-3 cm;
• when the sprout grows above the ground and gives 2-3 leaves, it is cut off at the level of the appearance of the cutting;
• cut sprouts are planted in the ground to take root.

At the end of summer, the shoots of the first year can be propagated by dropping the tops. For this, a special nutrient substrate is prepared from peat, compost and wood ash. Pots are molded from this mass, which are installed on a gutter at a height of 20-30 cm above the ground. The stem is tilted to the pot and the top is planted there. Plantings need to be watered.

Propagation of raspberries by layering

For faster rooting, the stem is wrapped in a plastic bag:

1. The bottom of the bag is cut off, one side is tied to the pot.
2. Pull it over a sprig of raspberries and tie around the stem.
3. Such wrapped nurseries are watered 2-3 times a week without removing the package. To do this, water is poured into the gutter.

In the last decade of September, the rooted shoot is cut off from the mother bush. It is planted without taking it out of the nutrient pot. This type of propagation gives better results than rooting the top directly in the ground. From a sharp bend, the branches often break, the cuttings take root worse, and the raspberries themselves develop poorly.

If weather do not allow cuttings to be planted directly in open ground, they can be rooted in protected ground. To do this, the nutrient substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat, sod land, sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Planting depth in a box is about 3-5 cm. Care consists in regular watering.

Raspberry care

In the year of planting, due to the nutrient-rich soil, raspberries do not need top dressing. Of the mandatory agricultural practices for care is the provision of irrigation during dry periods.

The formation of a bush begins when the planted shoot reaches 15 cm in length. At this stage, it is pinched for the first time. When the newly formed shoots grow by 20 cm, they are pinched again. The third pinching is carried out as soon as the stems of the third order stretch to 20 cm. Subsequently, a well-branched shrub is obtained, which is capable of producing about 3 kg of berries.

An adult plant needs pruning. The shrub has a two-year fruiting cycle. The shoot of the first year does not produce a crop. Berries appear in the second year of life, after which the stem dries up, and other replacement shoots grow. Pruning is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The bush is carefully examined to highlight 6-7 strong young shoots.
2. The rest must be cut to the ground.
3. After harvesting, the fruiting shoots are removed.

Important! In progress sanitary pruning in early spring, no more than 15 cm of the top is removed. The middle part of the escape gives fewer fruits than the top one. The lower part of the stem practically does not bear fruit.

Raspberry roots are located close to the surface of the earth, so they do not dig the soil near the shrub. Loosening the soil is carried out only in the aisles. After that, mulching is performed.

Raspberry propagation by cuttings

Plant residues of crops are used as mulch, freshly cut grass, compost, humus. The layer is made thick, sparing no raw materials. Such mulching retains moisture well and protects the roots from overheating on hot summer days.

Fertilization

Fertilizer is applied under raspberries in spring, summer and autumn.

1. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, fed with urea, ammonium nitrate. The procedure is carried out before mulching. For 1 square meter of raspberries, 8 g of fertilizer is required.
2. In summer, during flowering, a mineral complex containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is introduced; after fruiting, potassium-phosphorus top dressing is carried out; at the end of the growing season, raspberries need phosphate fertilizers.
3. In autumn, green manure is used as a fertilizer. Clover, white mustard are planted in the aisles of raspberries in the middle of summer, and after harvesting in the fall, the mowed green mass is embedded in the soil.

Organic fertilizers are a good help. In the spring, raspberries can be fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20). Bone meal is applied under bushes in summer. At the end of the season, wood ash is poured into the trunk circles.

By adhering to such simple rules, you can get a good fruit-bearing bush in a few months. Choose quality planting material, root it properly, apply enough fertilizer - and on your personal plot always will be excellent harvest raspberries.

Raspberry planting (video)

https://youtu.be/FWQ8ST-_jBo

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Good day, friends! In this article, as you probably guessed, we will talk about. You will learn when is the best time to do this, what planting methods are available, what fertilizers to use, how to prepare planting material, and how to choose the right place to plant.

The best time for planting raspberries, like strawberries, is the end of summer, that is, plant raspberries from mid-August to mid-September. However, transplanting raspberries from one place to another can be done in the spring. And if you want to plant young shoots from the bush, then the middle of summer is also quite suitable for this. It is desirable to choose a place for landing sunny. To improve the soil, add 1-2 buckets of rotted compost under the plant. Also, to improve the soil, they deoxidize with ash, spending 1 for each bush. liter jar, or make 1 glass of lime.

There are several ways to grow raspberries. Often, plants are evenly spaced over the entire area according to a 50 x 50 cm pattern, that is, they are planted in a large curtain. With such a planting, the stems are deepened into the soil by 3-4 cm. If you deepen more, then the stem may rot, and if vice versa, there is a danger that the plantings will freeze in winter. Planting usually ends with everything, because in the future the raspberries are left to fend for themselves. It grows almost like in a forest, that is, by itself. She is not fed, old stems are not cut out, and foliage is not removed. In dry weather, it is watered over the soil from a hose. After 12 years, such a curtain needs to be moved to another place, because that is how much the underground part of the raspberry can live.

But most often, raspberry cultivation occurs along the border of the site, and now I will tell you in this way. Bushes can be arranged in one or two lines. The distance between the rows should be about 1 m, and between the bushes - about 80 cm. When growing raspberries, make sure that the row width is about 40 cm. In other words, you need to cut out all the growth that breaks out of this limit. Otherwise, the raspberries will spread around the landing site for a very long distance. With this method of planting, it is inconvenient to dig separate holes for each bush, so it is easier to dig a continuous trench and plant all the plants in it. It is recommended to plant 2 plants at once for each place.

Before planting, the roots must be saturated with moisture, so dip them in water for at least 2 hours. If possible, add "Heteroauxin" or "Kornevin" to the water. However, keeping the roots in water for more than 2 hours is undesirable, as they will lose all the potassium they contain, which will lead the plants to weaken already at an early stage of engraftment.

Bring everything that has been written about earlier into the planting trench or hole, and also soak the soil well with water so that the raspberries are literally planted in the mud. Then make mounds, spread the roots on them (pre-cut dry and broken ones), and cover them with dry soil. When planting in a trench, plant bushes on mounds at a distance of 80 cm from each other. After that, completely fill the trench with soil. After planting, the soil is not compacted, but only slightly squeezed around the raspberry stalks.

Immediately upon purchase, raspberry planting material must be shortened. To do this, cut the stems, leaving them about 20 - 25 cm high. If you plant shoots from your plantation, then shorten it to the same height before planting. If this is not done, then the leaves that evaporate moisture will dry out the entire stem, which is not supplied with moisture, until sucking roots appear and the bush has taken root.Since raspberries need to be pollinated, plant several different varieties at once. In addition, your raspberries should have varieties with different periods maturation.

In the future, no more than 4 young shoots should be left in the bush in addition to 4 stems from last year. If at the beginning of summer more than 4 young shoots are left, then the bushes will thicken greatly, which will lead, firstly, to the spread of fungal diseases, and secondly, to poor lighting. As a result, the yield of such bushes will be lower.

If you decide to grow raspberries in rows, then be sure to tie up the stems. Otherwise, they will begin to bend to the ground under the weight of wet foliage or the berries themselves, which often leads to breakage of the stem at the base, especially during strong winds. To keep the stems upright, you need to stretch 2 - 3 horizontal trellises of fiberglass cord or strong wire. To do this, drive several stakes into the ground at a distance of 2 - 3 m from each other and fasten a cord to them.

If two such fences are made on both sides of the plantings, the distance between which is about 40 cm, then you can not tie the raspberries to the trellis. If the fence is only on one side, then the stems will have to be tied to each of the horizontal trellises. You can push the fences apart to a width of about 50 - 60 cm. Tie last year's shoots to one of the sides (you will harvest from these shoots), and the young shoots that have appeared will take the remaining space. Thus, fruit-bearing branches will not shade it. Tie young shoots as they grow to the trellis of the second fence, and as a result, you will have separated young shoots and last year's. Such cultivation of raspberries will greatly facilitate the care of plants.

It is worth noting that for those who want to grow this delicious berry it’s not enough to know, you still need to know how to prevent it from spreading all over the site from the place allotted to it in the future. To do this, you need to limit the landings on both sides, digging the slate to a depth of 30 cm, or every autumn and spring, cut through the boundary lines along the landings on the bayonet of the shovel. However, there is another simpler way out - along the raspberry plantings, leave a turf about 40 cm wide on each side. You will constantly walk on it and trample down the grass. And raspberries will not spread their roots to a trampled place, since she does not like dense soil. If in the wrong place the growth suddenly appears, then it should be removed with a sharp shovel. To do this, cut it a little and pull it out along with the roots. Remember, it is completely useless to cut the raspberry shoots with secateurs, because then it begins to grow even thicker.

In sunny places, raspberries can be planted throughout the site with single bushes. In this case, just before planting, you need to drive a piece of water pipe right into the center of the future bush. It is enough to take a pipe about 2 m long, and bury it in the ground by at least 40 cm. Then, plant 2 plants at once on both sides of the pipe, and tie them as they grow to this support. To do this, simply pull all the stems into a bundle with a rope. Also, do not forget to follow the roots, that is, so that they do not spread around.

There is another interesting way to grow raspberries, in which raspberries bear fruit in only one row, and the young growth constantly breaks out. But in the other row, on the contrary, all fruit-bearing shoots are cut out, that is, only young shoots grow, which will bear fruit next year. Therefore, the following year, the row with young shoots and the fruit-bearing row will change places. However, this method of cultivation is uneconomical to apply (in terms of the use of planting area) in the cramped conditions of a small area.

When choosing a place for planting raspberries, keep in mind that it coexists wonderfully with a pear, an apple tree and a plum, but it cannot stand cherries. Even at a distance of 2 - 3 m from the cherry, raspberries become stunted, begin to wither and bear fruit poorly. Also, do not plant raspberries next to blackcurrants and sea buckthorn, because the roots of all these plants are in the same layer of soil. Over time, sea buckthorn will survive raspberries from their place, and raspberries, in turn, will oppress black currants, sprouting in the middle of its bushes. It is not yet recommended to grow raspberries next to strawberries. In addition to the fact that they have a root system at the same depth, they also have common pests and diseases. It is also impossible to set up a raspberry plantation after potatoes and tomatoes

No matter how you plant raspberries, that is, no matter what method you use, it’s not worth keeping raspberries in one place for more than 8-10 years, since their fruiting practically stops. Moreover, this is not only due to an outdated root system, or a large number of pests and diseases have accumulated. There is another important reason, which is very rarely betrayed.

The fact is that the roots of all plants release toxins to suppress the growth of the roots of neighboring plants. But when the same plant grows for a very long time in one place, the toxins accumulate so much that they begin to inhibit the plant that releases them. And for each plant, this period of time is different. For example, the influence of its own toxins when grown in the same place begins after 2 - 3 years. But in peonies, this process occurs after 15 years. In raspberries, you guessed it, it stretches for about 8 - 9 years. In this case, even the rejuvenation of the bush will not help, the plants will still remain oppressed.

Important! Update not only the plant, but also the soil itself. This should always be remembered, especially when rejuvenating shrubs with heavy pruning. Be sure to dig the bushes on all sides with trenches, remove the soil from them and replace it with fresh one.