Bituminous tiles: do-it-yourself installation - fastening standards. Bituminous tiles, installation of bituminous tiles step by step instructions

Bitumen roofing is deservedly popular in most countries of the world, Russia is no exception. The buyer has a wide choice: products of large domestic manufacturers: Ruflex and TechnoNIKOL, roofing from a number of European, North American and South Korean companies. AT last years and Chinese manufacturers are showing an active interest in promoting their products to the Russian market.

bituminous tiles represents soft multilayer plates 3-5 mm thick. The basis is fiberglass (in cheap versions, the base is cellulose), impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition containing a mineral filler. The upper (outer) part of the tile is covered with colored stone chips (basalt or slate), it serves as protection and determines appearance tiles. The lower surface is partially covered with an adhesive layer and protected by a film. In some embodiments, the lower part is sprinkled with fine silicon sand, the glue is partially applied on top.

tile sheets various manufacturers may have different sizes, but the length of the plates is usually one meter. Width - 30-35 cm. At the same time, half of the plate is closed by the overlying one, providing a double overlap of the material. The shape and colors of bituminous tiles can be very diverse. Often they imitate natural traditional coatings: wooden shingles, slate stone roofing.

The Russian tile "Shinglas" has this form. Meter length is typical for almost all European manufacturers

In the “table of ranks”, among other roofing materials, flexible bituminous tiles can be attributed to the middle price category. Depending on the quality in the domestic market, tiles cost between 200-500 rubles per m 2. At a moderate price, the material has quite attractive characteristics:

Bituminous tiles quite successfully imitate natural shingles, decorating this wooden frame. In the upper part of the roof (pictured at the top left) there is a ventilated ridge

• The service life of high-quality shingles is quite long - at least half a century. At the same time, the roof can be operated in the northern Russian regions. The maximum guarantee is given by the manufacturer "Ruflex" from Nizhny Novgorod, all Finnish products are good. On the other hand, when buying cheap products made in Canada, the USA and China (at home, such a roof is sold from 3 USD), you should not expect the same durability from them.
• Since the dimensions of the tiles are small (one row in height), cutting the material even on complex-shaped roofs is practically waste-free. When using molded additional elements (skates, valleys), trimming is also absent.

Flexible tiles are economical in terms of cutting for any shape of the roof

• Flexible tiles are quite easy to install. You do not need to have a complex tool and be highly qualified. It is enough to know the elementary basics of carpentry, follow the manufacturer's recommendations and be careful.
• The bitumen-polymer reinforced material creates a continuous hermetic roof covering on the roof. Unlike sheet materials, there are no gaps. Highest value it has a valley (groove) in the zone, where, in the presence of leaks, snow and ice can penetrate and gradually destroy this knot. Bituminous tiles are not threatened. The tightness of the flexible roof requires mandatory ventilation of the under-roof space.
• Bitumen shingles, being a flexible material, allows you to arrange roofing on roofs of rather complex shapes and curved surfaces.

Bitumen shingles are great for pretty complex roofs. Use of plates different shapes in one roof (right) allows you to create an interesting pattern

• Flexible tiles are flexible and can withstand slight deformations of the base without compromising the integrity of the surface.
• Bituminous shingles do not form condensation, dampen rain noise in the best way and are non-conductive (in most cases there is no need for lightning protection). The surface, sprinkled with stone chips, is completely non-slip. You can safely walk on the roof, there is no need for snow retainers.
• The flexible roof has a low weight - 7-9 kg, which saves on the cross-section of the elements of the truss system. On the other hand, rather high requirements are imposed on the base under the roof: it must be strong, solid and even.
• Bituminous roofing is quite attractive, a wide variety of shades and configurations of tiles allows you to diversify the architectural solutions of houses with pitched roofs.

Foundation preparation

For styling shingles a solid foundation is laid. Can be used sheet materials: OSB, moisture resistant plywood. A good option is a solid flooring of even calibrated edged (not tongue-and-groove) boards, between which gaps of about 4 mm should be left. It is imperative to leave gaps, otherwise, when the humidity rises, the wood may swell, the flooring will “rise”. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 3 mm between sheet materials. The best method of fastening is with the help of self-tapping screws, you can use brushed nails.

Thus, it is necessary to fasten sheet materials. The long side should be parallel to the cornice overhang, and the sheets must necessarily go apart. If boards are used, their joints must also be distributed over different rafters.

OSB and plywood should have a minimum thickness corresponding to the pitch of the rafters:

• With a step of 60 cm, the thickness of the sheet material should be 12 mm, boards 20 mm.
• Step 75 cm - plywood or OSB 15 mm, board 22 mm.
• Step 90 cm - plywood or OSB 18 mm, board 25 mm.
• Step 120 cm - 22 mm and 30 mm, respectively.
• Pitch 150 mm - 28 mm sheet and 40 mm board.

The given figures are valid for the Moscow region, with large snow loads, the thickness of the base material will have to be increased.

Solid flooring in this case is made of moisture-resistant oriented strand board OSB (OSB). They are located across the slope and apart.

It will be better if the pitch of the rafters does not exceed a meter. If sheet materials are used, the step of the rafters should be made a multiple of the size. This is 62.5 cm for OSB with a sheet size of 250 cm and 75 cm for plywood with a size of 150 cm, options are possible. With a large distance between the rafters, you will either have to increase the thickness of the materials of the crate (this is not cheap), or mount an additional carrier crate from below.

Roof design option. In this case, a counter-rail and an additional crate are located on top of the rafters, carrying the base for tiles made of OSB sheets.

It is recommended that the rafter system and materials for the base device be pre-treated with a fire-retardant composition.

Ventilation device

Bituminous shingles - airtight, windproof and airtight roofing material. Therefore, the installation of a roof made of bituminous tiles provides for the mandatory organization of ventilation of the under-roof space. If the attic is ventilated, it is enough to do ventilation holes in the pediments. With a combined roof, a counter-rail 35-40 mm thick is attached to the rafters, and the crate is mounted on it. Air channels are formed between the individual core rails. At the bottom, air enters the filing, at the top it exits through special devices: a ventilated ridge or aerators. Between the rafter and the counter rail is optional, but it is desirable to lay a waterproofing membrane, since it costs a little.

Under-roof space ventilation schemes. For an uncomplicated roof, the most efficient and inexpensive option- ridge aerator

Subtleties of mounting technology

The technology for installing bituminous tiles for different brands is approximately the same, but there are minor differences. The recommendations given are valid for most products. However, after purchasing the material, it is necessary to obtain from the seller the installation instructions for this particular brand of tile and follow it exactly:

• The storm system can be hung on two types of hooks. The first is attached to the skin and does not affect the roof in any way. The second is mounted on the edge of the roof and must be fixed first. It is necessary to calculate the required slopes and place the hooks at the required marks. If necessary, drown them in the base material.

Hooks of the drainage system of option A (left) are fixed before the start of roofing work

• The lining layer is made of rolled bitumen or bitumen-polymer material. Many manufacturers offer several options. With small slopes of the roof (on average it is 10-18 °), the entire roof area is covered with lining material. The rolls are overlapped (at least 8 cm on the long side and 15 cm on the short side), the joints are smeared with bituminous mastic. Fasten the lining material with galvanized roofing nails in 20 cm increments.

The scheme of continuous laying of the lining carpet. When laying horizontally, they start from the bottom, the nails are placed along the edge of the canvas in increments of 20 cm

Additional strips of lining material are glued to the valleys and inclined ribs before the general pasting device.

Valleys and ribs must have an additional lining layer: it is mounted at the very beginning

For slopes greater than 18°, a continuous underlay is not required. It is enough to roll the rolls along the contour of the roof (40 cm or more from the edge), in places of fractures (ribs, valleys) and junctions. However, if the "lining" is solid and with a greater slope, it will definitely not be worse.

• Along the gables and cornices, metal cornice strips are mounted on top of the lining layer, from above they will be covered with tiles. Planks should overlap at the junction, the spacing of roofing nails should not exceed 12 cm.

The overlap of the cornice strip is approximately 5 cm, the nails must be placed apart in a checkerboard pattern

If there is a gable (possibly beveled) on the roof of a complex shape, on which it is necessary to organize the flow of water, preventing it from flowing out, it is necessary to form a small ledge under the cornice strip.

• The next step is to glue and nail the valley carpet.
• Now you can proceed to the installation of the cornice strip. It is glued and fastened with nails along the entire lower overhang.

• To carefully stick the main roof, the roof surface will have to be marked. Chalk is most commonly used. Mark the upper edges of the plates with the pitch indicated in the instructions for the purchased tile.

Valley node. It can be seen that there is a lining layer below, a valley strip on top, a cornice strip is glued onto it and, finally, the main roof. Valleys, all fractures and contours are glued with mastic

• We proceed to laying ordinary strips of shingles. The first step is to mix the tiles. The fact is that it can have a different shade in different packages, this is allowed by all manufacturers. In order not to see the difference in color, the tiles must be alternately taken from different packs. Moreover, the packages are selected arbitrarily, and not in order.

The tiles are laid from the bottom up. The slope of the roof in this case is higher than 18°, there is no need for a continuous lining

We start the first row from the bottom, retreating 1-2 cm from the edge. We're filming. As a rule, it is from below and above, on the adhesive layer.

It is better to start installation from the middle, closing the joint of the cornice strip. We step back a little from the edge. Before installation, the protective film is removed where necessary, otherwise the plates will not stick together.

For fixing, galvanized nails with a thin wide hat are used. They are clogged in such a way that the caps are completely covered by the overlying sheets. The location of fasteners for different types of tiles is different.

Do not forget to glue the metal strips and all edges of the roof planes with mastic

• Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the design of the valley. There are two options: open and braided. With an open gutter, ordinary tiles are not brought to a fracture of the valley by 7-8 cm on each side. Attention ! Some "masters" prefer to cut the tiles right on the valley, already pasted. Under no circumstances should this be done. Together with the top layer, the knife will also damage the valley carpet. This seemingly slight negligence is the cause of the lion's share of leaking roofs.

"Open" valley node. Don't forget to apply glue. In order not to damage the underlying layers, tiles should not be cut on the roof, but on an OSB sheet or board before installation.

A braided gutter is more reliable than an open one. At first glance, its device is more complicated, because the stripes need to be braided alternately, like pigtails. But experienced experts say that with the right approach, this option is easier, since you need to mark and cut less.

The braided valley is laid like a braid: the plates alternately pass through the groove. The overlap on the opposite slope should not be less than 30 cm, and the nails should not be located closer than 15 cm from the fracture of the valley

• The ridge crowns the roof. In most models, this is a strip divided by perforation into individual elements. The details of the ridge are separated, bent in half, the protective film is removed from the bottom of the adhesive layer and fastened with four nails so that they are hidden under the next sheet. Overlap - 5 cm.

The horizontal ridge and the inclined edge of the hip roof are designed the same way

• Chimney connections and vertical walls pre-pasted with a special carpet (often lining). The carpet is brought up to 30 cm on the roof, 20 cm overlap. It is recommended to install a metal apron on top.

The metal apron is fixed with dowels, the joint with the pipe is sealed with silicone sealant

• Typical elements of the passage through the roof (ventilation, antennas) have a special design and complete seals.

Passage seals are fixed with nails, ordinary tiles are glued on top

• Don't forget to make ventilation outlets. The most inexpensive and effective option is a ventilated skate. You can use standard aerators.

The design of the ridge aerator. You can use ready-made, plastic. It is easy to install, but it will cost more.

So, now we see that bitumen roofing is relatively uncomplicated. difficult task, however, requiring accuracy and careful observance of the manufacturer's instructions, which must be kept at hand during operation. Of the tools you will need: a hammer, a tape measure, a marking cord, metal scissors, a sharp shoe knife. A cordless screwdriver will facilitate the work and allow the use of screws at the stage of preparing the base. You also need to keep in mind how to mark the roof: chalk for bitumen, pencil for wood.

Soft roofing is a type of coating that has long been familiar to most people. Not so long ago, one of the most widely used materials for roofing various designs was an ordinary roofing material, which also belongs to this category of roofing. In fairness, it is worth noting that the old roofing felt was not particularly durable and high performance, so it needed periodic repairs.

Today, thanks to new technologies that have appeared, soft roofing material has undergone significant modernization. It is produced in various versions, including in the form of bituminous tiles. Such coatings already have long service life, combine high quality, excellent waterproofing performance and very elegant appearance. Therefore, many do not even realize that a modern soft roof is still the same roofing material, only produced in improved variations.

Laying technology soft roof from bituminous tiles - quite complicated, and requires a large number various materials, since the design of such a coating consists of several layers, which is why it has earned the name "roofing pie". Therefore, if it is decided to make an independent installation of a coating from this material, it is necessary to carefully study all the recommendations that should be followed when performing work.

Before deciding on the choice of a soft roof, it is necessary to have an idea about this material, evaluate its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of soft roofs

There are several points that can be called the disadvantages of this roofing material, but, to be honest, they are very conditional. So, such “cons” include:

• A rather complicated installation of a “roofing pie”, requiring strict adherence to all technological recommendations.
• Any soft roof is laid only on a solid solid base. And this, in turn, will entail additional work and, accordingly, costs.

However, as you can see, there are much fewer negative sides in the arrangement of a soft roof, and therefore, more and more often, the owners of mansions opt for it.

Various types of soft roofs

Soft roofs include several types of materials that can be easily found on Russian market- this is a flexible bituminous tile, rolled soft roof of various types, and euroslate (ondulin).

Roll soft roof

Roll roofing materials are divided according to several criteria. So, the following types of coatings are produced:

• Baseless and having a base for coating.
• The basis for roofing roll materials can be fiberglass, asbestos fiber, cardboard, polymers, or several materials can be used for it in combination.
• Roofing material can be equipped with various protective layers - fine-grained or coarse-grained mineral chips, dust or flake powder.

In addition, roll coatings can be divided according to the type of base and installation method:

• Self-adhesive coatings. Such a material has a layer of adhesive applied to the back of the web and protected by a special membrane, which is removed immediately before the installation of the coating.

• Adhesive sheets. These coatings are glued to the mastic different ways called hot and cold. But in any case, the material during installation is heated to a certain temperature.
• Welded coatings. This type of coating is fixed to the roof surface using gas burners. The flame of the burner melts the composition applied to the back of the soft roof material, after which the coating is rolled. This type of coating, correctly laid on the prepared roof surface, makes it practically airtight and resistant to leaks. In addition, this type of material is considered the most durable of all roll options.

Membrane roll roofing

Membrane coating is a high-tech material that can be made on various bases: polyvinyl chloride (PVC), synthetic rubber (EPDM), thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO).

• The PVC membrane, reinforced with ester fiber and containing plasticizers, has high elasticity and resistance to temperature extremes. In addition, the material does not fade in the sun, is fire resistant, is available in a range of colors, and is also easily and quickly mounted on the surface. However, this coating has its drawbacks - it is not resistant to organic solvents, bitumen and oils. In addition, when heated, the PVC coating is capable of releasing substances toxic to humans into the air, since it is not environmentally friendly.
• EPDM membranes, made on the basis of rubber and reinforced with polyester meshes, have high elasticity and resistance to various solvents.

The negative qualities of this material can be called the fact that its installation is carried out with the help of glue, and the joints can diverge over time, under the influence of external factors, so the roof will begin to leak, as the coating will lose its tightness.

• TPO membranes based on thermoplastic polyolefin may or may not be reinforced. For the reinforcement of this material, polyester or fiberglass is used. The sheets of material are welded together using hot air, and a sufficiently strong and reliable seam is formed at the welding site. Therefore, the coating has a long service life, high strength and resistance to negative temperatures reaching up to -60 degrees.

The disadvantages of such a coating include its low elasticity and rather high cost compared to other membrane materials.

Briefly - about the principles of laying membrane roofing material

There are four main ways to install a membrane roof - these are ballast fixation, mechanical fastening, gluing and hot air welding.

• Ballast anchoring used if the roof has a slight slope, not exceeding 15˚.

In this case, the canvas is laid on a concrete base. flat roof or on a layer of laid thermal insulation. Then the material is stretched, fixed along the entire perimeter, the joints of the sheets are connected by welding or special glue.

Then, a ballast of pebbles, gravel or crushed stone is laid on top of the membrane.

• Mechanical fastening made in the event that the supporting structure is not designed for the weight of the ballast.

The basis for mounting the membrane in this way can be wood, concrete, profiled sheets, as well as any other material.

A layer of insulating material is laid and fixed on the base. Most often, high-density mineral basalt wool, specially designed for this application, is used for this, on top of which the membrane is spread and fixed. To fix materials to the base, disk or telescopic fasteners are used, which are installed at the joints of sheets overlapped by 80÷100 mm.

• Membrane sticking It is made on the high-quality glue mixes differing in good durability. The material is glued only along the perimeter of the canvas, at the joints and in problem areas eg around chimneys, on ribs, valleys, etc.
• Hot air membrane welding- this way more often It is mainly used for fastening sheets of membranes.

The work is carried out with the help of a special apparatus, which compresses two overlapping sheets with the help of a roller and hot air, the temperature of which reaches 600 ˚С. The welded joint can be from 20 to 100 mm wide, which ensures the reliability of the connection and its guaranteed sealing.

Euroslate or Ondulin

Another option for roofing material, which can also be classified as soft roofing, is ondulin or euroslate. This is a lightweight and reliable wave-like material made from a bitumen-fiber mixture with the addition of mineral and polymer additives. Roofing sheets are easy to install and usually have a very long service life. The material is produced in various shades soothing tones, from which you can always choose the one suitable for a particular facade design.

Installation of this material can be carried out not only on a solid base, but also on a crate made of boards 150 ÷ ​​170 mm wide, fixed in increments of 200 ÷ 250 mm.

Ondulin is the only material from the category of soft roofing that has a sufficiently rigid relief structure, and therefore can be fixed to the crate.

Installation of ondulin, like any undulating roofing material, is carried out from the eaves. Top rows are laid with an overlap on the lower ones by 250 ÷ 300 mm, and adjacent sheets located in the same row are mounted overlapping, on one wave. Ondulin is fastened with special screws with waterproofing gaskets and special covers. They are screwed into each crest of the wave along the cornice and ridge, and in the middle part of the slope - with a step through two ÷ three waves.

Flexible shingles

Bituminous tiles can be safely attributed to the most popular types of soft roofs, as they are distinguished by their aesthetic appearance, variety of shades and shapes, strength and durability.

The tile is made on a fiberglass basis, which is impregnated with high-quality bitumen, on top of which mineral chips of various colors are applied. The upper mineral spraying performs not only a decorative function, but also a protective one, as it prevents mechanical damage to the softer lower layers. Tiles are used to cover houses with pitched roofs of any size and configuration of any degree of complexity.

Since bituminous tiles are the most demanded material from the category of soft roofing, its installation will be considered in more detail.

Installation of a roof with bituminous tiles

To begin with, it is worth understanding the roofing "pie", which must be mounted under the flooring. soft tiles. It is very important to do this work correctly, otherwise the roof will be deprived of reliability and will not last a long time, and it will be impossible to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the rooms under it.

Approximate work sequence

In order to follow the sequence of installation of all elements, it is best to compile a list of all works in order:

• The first step is the installation of the truss system.
• Further, from the side of the attic, a vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the rafters.
• On top of the vapor barrier, also from the side of the attic, a crate of timber is fixed to the rafters. It is needed for the subsequent installation of the inner lining of the attic, fixing the membrane and creating a rigid base for laying insulation.
• Next, there is laying between rafter legs insulating mats. Usually mineral basalt wool is used for this.
• The insulation is covered with a waterproofing roofing membrane. It is fixed to the rafters.
• The membrane is pressed against the rafter legs with counter beams.
• Next, the installation of a sparse crate follows - the basis for the flooring of a solid base.
• Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB are fixed on the crate.
• A solid plywood crate is covered with a lining carpet.
• Next, the laying of soft bituminous tiles is underway.
• Fixing the drainage system, sheathing the cornice overhang with an anti-mosquito net, and then lining or PVC spotlights can be carried out at various stages of installation work - as it will be more convenient for the craftsmen.

Calculations of the lathing system for a soft roof

Now, knowing the approximate sequence of installation of the "roofing pie", there is a need to consider them in more detail, since there are nuances that are important to take into account when performing these rather complex technological operations.

The first thing to determine is what parameters the elements of the rafter system and the batten should have, and in what step they are set.

Let's start with the rafters. The cross section of the beam from which they are made depends on the steepness of the slope, possible external loads on the roof and on the installation step of the rafter legs. The dependence is expressed as follows.

External loads include the weight of the structure itself, with insulation, lathing and roofing material, the mass of possible snow drifts in winter and the impact of winds. Both snow and wind loads strongly depend on the steepness of the slope, and with an increase in the angle of inclination, the significance of the snow load gradually decreases, but the wind load increases.

The total load expressed in kilograms per square meter, should be evenly distributed on the rafter legs. And this, in turn, depends on the step of their installation - the more often they are located, the less load falls on each linear meter of the rafter beam, and the smaller its cross section can be. If the value of the distributed load is known, then it is easy to determine the parameters of the required material from the table.

There is a rather complex physical and mathematical algorithm for calculating the distributed load on the rafter legs. But we will not bore the reader with an abundance of formulas and tables, but we will suggest using a convenient calculator. The initial data for the calculation will be:

— Region of construction;

- The steepness of the roof slope, degrees;

— Roofing material;

- Features of the location of the house on the ground and its height.

In the last paragraph of the calculator, it will be necessary to put down the estimated installation step of the rafters. By changing this value up or down, you can determine the optimal load distribution. And then, according to the table, knowing the length of the rafter, pick up required section timber (logs).

The calculator is accompanied by two diagram maps, which make it possible to determine the zones of the construction region by the level of snow and wind load.

Calculator for calculating the distributed load on the rafter legs

So, to begin with, according to the maps and schemes, we determine the zones:

Now we substitute known values into the calculator - and get the result

Specify the requested data and click the button "Calculate the distributed load on the rafters"

Specify the angle of the roof slope

Specify the selected type of roofing

Asbestos-cement slate of a regular profile Asbestos-cement slate of a reinforced profile Pulp-bitumen sheets ("Euroslate", "ondulin") Roofing iron (galvanized steel) Soft tile Metal tile, corrugated board Ceramic tiles Cement-based tiles Polymer-sand tiles Soft roof - roofing material on bituminous mastic in two layers

Determine according to the map-scheme and indicate the zone of your region according to the level of snow load

I II III IV V VI VII

Determine on the map and indicate the zone of your region according to the level of wind pressure

Ia I II III IV V VI VII

Specify the location of the building

Indicate the height of the roof above the ground

Less than 5 meters - 5 to 10 meters - 11 to 20 meters - More than 20 meters

Below you will be prompted to enter the estimated installation step of the rafters. By changing this indicator, you can achieve the optimal value of the distributed load on the rafter legs

Rafter installation step, meters

With the result, you can enter the table:

Rafter section								The value of the specific load per 1 linear meter of rafters, kg
FROM LOG	FROM BEAM (BOARDS)							75	100	125	150	175
diameter, mm	beam thickness, mm
	40	50	60	70	80	90	100
	beam height, mm							allowable length of the free rafter between the support points, m
120	180	170	160	150	140	130	120	4.5	4	3.5	3	2.5
140	200	190	180	170	160	150	140	5	4.5	4	3.5	3
160	-	210	200	190	180	170	160	5.5	5	4.5	4	3.5
180	-	-	220	210	200	190	180	6	5.5	5	4.5	4
200	-	-	-	230	220	210	200	6.5	6	5.5	5	4.5
220	-	-	-	-	240	230	220	-	6.5	6	5.5	5

Let's take an example.

Suppose calculations have shown that the distributed load with a rafter pitch of 600 mm (0.6 m) is equal to 90 kg / running meter. m. big side up to the tabular value - 100 kg / rm. m. The length of the rafter from the Mauerlat to the ridge is 5.5 m. The table shows that we will triple the values ​​​​of the sections located on the left in the fourth line from the top: round timber with a diameter of 160 mm or a bar with a size of: 60 × 220; 70×210; 80×200; 90x190 or 100x180.

Now you need to decide on the thickness of the plywood, which will become a continuous crate for the bituminous tile flooring. This thickness depends on the installation step of the rafters (if the sheets are attached directly to them) or an additional sparse crate mounted perpendicular to the rafters.

Distance between rafters or bars of additional lathing, mm	Thickness of plywood or OSB-3, mm	Board thickness, mm
300	9	-
600	12	20
900	18	23
1200	21	30
1500	27	37

The third column of the table shows the thickness of the board, since a continuous crate for a soft roof can also be made from boards, nailing them close, without clearance.

By the way, pay attention to one more nuance. It is possible to think over in advance the design of your truss system and additional crates. Perhaps, in some cases (for example, the pitch between the rafters is 600 mm), it would be much more rational to increase the thickness of the plywood by literally 3 mm (from 9 to 12 mm), but at the same time do without installing an additional crate at all, limiting ourselves only to stuffing on the rafters. counter beam legs to create a ventilation gap. In a word, it is necessary to calculate in advance the possible benefits of certain options.

Installation instructions for roofing with soft bituminous tiles

Detailed instructions for installing soft bituminous tiles on a pitched roof are presented in the form of an illustrated table:

Illustration
	So, the first step is to fix the rafters. They are installed with a calculated step from each other - see the table and the calculations above. Before installation wooden elements systems are recommended to process them special formulations to impart antiseptic and fire-fighting qualities. The impregnated wooden parts must be given time to dry.
	The rafters are cut into the Mauerlat passing along the upper edge of the wall, fixed to it with the help of metal corners or forged brackets.
	The next step along the entire inner, from the side of the attic, the surface of the slopes is stretched and the vapor barrier film is fixed to the rafters. If it is single-acting, then the inscriptions should be facing towards the attic.
	Since the installation of the film takes place from the side of the attic, its fixing starts from the ridge and is carried out with an overlap of horizontally stretched canvases by 150÷200 mm. There should be no gaps between the canvases, channels for the passage of steam, therefore, the places of their overlaps are hermetically glued with a special waterproof adhesive tape.
	Further, the vapor barrier membrane is additionally pressed against the rafters using a bar with a section of 50 × 40 mm, which is attached in increments of 600 ÷ 650 mm. To create a ventilation gap, often vertical bars - vents - are additionally fixed to the horizontal crate. They are mounted in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. They are necessary if the attic is sheathed from the inside with clapboard or drywall. The fastening of the details of the inner crate is carried out using self-tapping screws.
	If racks and slopes are provided in the rafter system, then in the places where they are fixed to the rafters, the vapor barrier film is carefully cut out, bent and fixed with brackets on the rafter legs. It is also desirable to glue the places of its junction on top with waterproof tape.
	Further, if it is not planned to immediately carry out sheathing of the walls of the attic (mansard), work will be carried out from the outside of the structure. First of all, between the rafter legs at the place of their intersection with the Mauerlat, it is nailed wooden beam section 40 × 60 mm. It is necessary to keep the insulation mats from slipping.
	The next step is to insulate the roof. The insulation must have a thickness of 3 ÷ 4 mm less than the height of the rafters between which it will be laid.
	If the insulation will be laid in two layers, then it should be laid in a run-up, that is, the middle of the solid mat should overlap the joint between the two lower ones.
	A windproof waterproofing membrane is stretched on top of the insulation. Since it is mounted on the outside of the structure, work starts from the cornice overhang. Horizontal canvases are overlapped by 150÷200 mm. Places of overlaps, as well as vapor barrier sheets, are glued with waterproof tape. Some membranes have a special adhesive layer covered with a paper backing - this makes it even easier to work.
	Further, from above, the windproof film is pressed against the rafters with the help of counter-lattice rails. The next step is to immediately install the drip, ventilation tape and holders for the gutter.
	After that, the boards of the crate are fixed on the counter-rails with a step of 350 mm between the centers. This distance is observed on the entire surface of the roof slope, except for the first to the eaves, as well as to the ridge of the batten board. Between them and the middle of the next board, the distance should be reduced - up to 280 ÷ 300 mm. After the installation of the boards of the crate is completed, a cornice strip is nailed or screwed along the eaves, which will protect the lower edge of the roof from moisture. It should be noted that the cornice strip can also be fixed on top of the plywood layer. How this happens will be discussed next.

How to properly insulate a pitched roof?

The issue of roof slope insulation in the instruction table is mentioned only in passing. In fact, the creation of an insulated roofing pie is a rather serious and difficult task, requiring certain calculations and taking into account many nuances. How to do it right - read in a separate publication of our portal.

Continuation of the instruction table:

	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	Further, sheets of plywood or OSB boards are laid on the boards of the crate. Their installation is carried out in a run, while it is necessary to leave a temperature gap of 3 ÷ 4 mm between them. Since the pitch of the crate and in our case is 350 mm, plywood or OSB with a thickness of 9 ÷ 10 mm will suffice.
	Solid plywood flooring is fixed to the crate using self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be flush flush with the plywood.
	After fixing a continuous layer of plywood, it must be covered with a lining carpet. Here it is necessary to clarify that this layer can be laid on the entire surface, or maybe only along the perimeter of the roof slopes, and this depends on the slope being applied.
	So, the slopes of a sloping roof, the angle of which to the horizon is no more than 20 degrees, must be covered with a continuous layer of lining carpet, since it performs an additional waterproofing function. Cloths of this material are mounted on a plywood surface, starting from the eaves, the sheets are overlapped by 100 ÷ 120 mm. The top and side edges of each sheet are fixed on the plywood surface with special ruffed or spiral nails with a head of at least 8 mm in diameter. The pitch between nails should not exceed 200 mm.
	If the roof has a slope of more than 20 degrees, then it becomes completely unnecessary to cover the slopes with a lining carpet - it is enough to cover the perimeter strips with it. However, many craftsmen still recommend solid underlayment.
	In addition, in the case of non-continuous decking, underlayment waterproofing material should be laid around ventilation and chimney pipes, skylights, at the junction of the roof with the wall, if, for example, a pitched roof is being built. The insulating material is fixed with special ruffed or spiral nails made of stainless material with a wide flat head.
	The passage element through which the ventilation pipe will be led out is smeared with bituminous mastic before its installation.
	Then the passage element is installed in place, pressed well and fixed with self-tapping screws or the nails mentioned above, in increments of 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	If the roof has a complex structure, in which the slopes on the front side are connected to each other at a certain angle, then the joint between them must be well waterproofed. This joint is called a valley, and a lining carpet is necessarily laid on it with an overlap on the slopes of about 200 mm, where the material is nailed to the plywood layer with nails in increments of 100 ÷ 120 mm.
	The illustration shown shows the installation of underlayment on the frontal roof overhang. For the convenience of performing work, it is necessary to make a special ladder. You can’t do without it, especially in cases where the installation of the roof is carried out on roof structure with steep roof slopes.
	After completing the work on laying the lining carpet, you can proceed to fixing the eaves strip on the protruding roof overhang. Installation begins from the corner of the eaves of the roof and fastening takes place with special stainless steel nails with a wide flat head, or the bar is screwed with self-tapping screws.
	Fasteners (nails or self-tapping screws) must fix the bar in two rows, in a checkerboard pattern, with a step of 100 ÷ 150 mm. If several parts of the plank are connected, then they are overlapped by 50 ÷ 70 mm.
	After fixing the cornice strip, prepare the front. It needs to be adjusted so that it fits perfectly with the eaves. To do this, it is cut with scissors for metal.
	After fitting this element, it is also fixed to the roof with nails or self-tapping screws. The installation of the front strip is always made from the eaves. If several segments of the plank are used for decoration, then the upper one overlaps the lower one by 50 ÷ 70 mm.
	On the ridge, the plank is also cut at an angle to join it with the plank on the other side of the gable.
	After the installation of the cornice and frontal strips is completed, a ridge-cornice tile made in the form of a strip is mounted on the edge of the overhang. This element is fixed to the base indented from the bottom edge by 10÷15 mm. Fixation is made with nails, along the lower and upper edges of the strip. They are hammered in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the illustration. When installing the next row, the nail heads must be hidden under the tiles. If the drainage system has not been installed before, then after fixing the ridge-cornice strip, you can start installing its elements.
	Separate elements of the tile can be called curly sheets, and before their installation it is necessary to carry out one procedure, which will allow to evenly distribute color shades material on the surface of the roof slope. To do this, 6÷8 packages of flexible tiles are opened, and the sheets from them are mixed. Only in this way it will be possible to achieve the perfect color harmony of the roof. Before installation, the protective film is peeled off from the shingles. On all sheets and on the ridge-cornice tiles in their upper part, a line is highlighted in color, which you can navigate when installing the material on the prepared slope.
	The first row of tiles is laid from the middle of the slope to the gable planks. The row should be perfectly parallel to the ridge-cornice strip, and find it with its petals, covering the caps of the fasteners. Neighboring sheets of tiles in a row are laid end-to-end to each other and nailed to the base with nails in increments of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
	The edge sheet is measured in place and cut off with a construction knife.
	Having reached the front bar, her metal part, located on the slope of the roof, are smeared with mastic, on which the extreme element of the tile is fixed. Moreover, in all subsequent rows, the same process of fixing is performed.
	This illustration clearly shows how the edge sheet of the tile is laid on the applied bituminous mastic.
	The second row is also mounted from the middle of the slope, and the sheets of tiles are shifted to the side by half the petal. This tile model is fixed in such a way that the lower edge of the petals is located at the level of the upper edge of the cutouts in the bottom row.
	In order to ensure that subsequent rows do not go away from the horizontal, and the petals are arranged vertically, a mooring from a cord is hung on the slope of the roof and marking vertical lines are drawn on it with chalk.
	For the convenience of working at height, scaffolds are fixed on the slope. In order not to damage the tiles, they are fixed under the petals. After completion of the work, the scaffolds are dismantled, and the raised petals are glued to the bituminous mastic.
	Elements of flexible tiles are cut at the location of the passage for the ventilation pipe and glued to the bituminous mastic applied around it. It is very important to make a perfectly even cut in the tile sheets, otherwise the pipe frame will look messy.
	This illustration shows well how the material should be placed on the underside of the passage.
	And this figure shows the finished work on the installation of soft tiles around the ventilation pipes passing through the slope.
	After all the material is fixed on the slopes of the roof, it remains only to properly arrange the ridge. For this, it is recommended to use a special one-piece aerator, for example, the one offered by TechnoNIKOL.
	A roof aerator is necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-roof and attic space of the building. Due to the good circulation of air masses, in the attic, moisture will not accumulate on the wooden parts of the truss system and in the thickness of the insulation, which means that the risk of mold can be eliminated.
	Despite the fact that good air circulation will be provided, the aerator will also become reliable protection for the ventilation gap in the ridge from the penetration of various insects and from the ingress of precipitation and debris, as its well-thought-out design will create a reliable barrier.
	In order to allow air masses to circulate freely, a gap of at least 20 mm wide is cut out in the ridge part of the roof using a jigsaw.
	If the installation of the aerator is foreseen in advance, then the ventilation gap can be fully equipped even during the installation of the truss system, when installing ridge runs.
	The ventilation gap can be cut along the entire length of the ridge or in its central part and be only 500 ÷ 1000 mm long. Depending on how long the ventilation outlet is planned, the required aerator model is purchased.
	The aerator is nailed along the edges to the roof slopes with nails or fastened with self-tapping screws.
	The surface of the aerator can be decorated with tiles, which are fixed on top of it on bituminous mastic with additional fixation with fasteners - nails or self-tapping screws.
	If the aerator is not installed for the entire length of the ridge, then the rest of it is closed with ridge tiles, laid with an overlap of 50 mm, and also fixed with wide-head nails.
	If large cornice overhangs are provided in the rafter system, it is recommended that they be filed immediately. This is done in two ways. The lining can be fixed to the rafters along their lower edge, as shown in the illustration.
	The second option - the filing is located at a right angle with respect to the wall of the house. If this option is chosen, then it will be necessary to make a frame structure under the roof overhang to secure the lining (siding), approximately as shown in the illustration. During installation finishing material it must be borne in mind that ventilation must be arranged under the overhang. To do this, you can leave gaps of 5 ÷ 6 mm along the wall. Another option is to fix several perforated sheathing lamellas (soffits). Both in the first and in the second version, it is recommended, before installing the finishing material, to fix an anti-mosquito net on the ventilation ducts, which will prevent harmful insects from getting under the roof slope. This element is optional, but highly recommended.

Properly installed coating will last without additional maintenance long years keeping the structure from moisture and cold air. But, as can be understood from the descriptions of the entire process of roofing, they are quite complex and dangerous, since most operations will have to be carried out at a height.

Therefore, if there is little experience and there are doubts about their strengths and capabilities, then it would be wiser to entrust the arrangement of the roof to specialists. And the instruction here will also serve in good stead - it will be possible with knowledge of the matter, without looking like a layman, to control the conscientiousness of the work of the construction team.

At the end of the publication - a visual lesson in the installation of shingles:

Video: Installation of a roof with shingles "SHINGLAS"

The very name of the material, bituminous, or flexible, tile, is quite eloquent, it initially suggests that the material should be flexible, plastic, soft. It is also clear that the material for the manufacture of soft roofing is bitumen. Bituminous tiles, the price of which is quite affordable, are often used in construction with a modest budget, but the intricate shape and complex geometry of the roof of an expensive mansion may also require the use of this attractive and fairly durable material.

What do bituminous tile sheets look like and what structure do they have?

In appearance, sheets of bituminous tiles are rectangles, they have the shape of a plate (shingle), decorated with petals of various shapes along the edge. Bituminous roofing material from different manufacturers has a variety of color scheme, may differ significantly in size and print, but the structure of the tiles remains standard.

The basis for the tiles is a fiberglass fabric impregnated with modified bitumen, the use of this modern raw material makes it possible to give the roofing material improved qualities:

• good viscosity at high temperatures,
• preservation of elasticity - at negative.

A layer of armoring substance is applied to the front layer of the tile, then a fine fraction of stone chips or thin metal sheets(zinc-titanium or copper).

The finished material is a layering:

• in the center - fiberglass with bituminous impregnation, bituminous layer,
• on the front side: sheet metal or stone granulate,
• with inside- silicon sand spraying, adhesive layer, protection film.

The layering of the material allows it to perfectly cope with loads, precipitation, temperature effects, ultraviolet radiation of the sun.

If we analyze the quality of the roofing material, then it can be argued that flexible bituminous tiles have the following properties:

• variety of shades, patterns and shapes,
• aesthetic look,
• relatively light weight
• enough high level noise absorption, higher than that of a metal counterpart,
• the possibility of mounting on surfaces of complex shape and curved sections,
• simple installation process,
• the possibility of providing waterproofing,
• excellent water repellency.

About shingles and its features - in the video:

Bitumen roofing - installation features

To get high-quality coverage, you should take note of a few simple rules:

• bituminous tiles should be stored in pallets stacked in 16 rows in a dry and warm room before the installation of the roof.
• lining material is stored in rolls, installed vertically, preferably in a heated warehouse.

It is recommended to use bituminous coating on roofs with a slope of 15 to 85 degrees. When calculating the amount of material are guided next rule: the greater the slope of the roof, the less material it will require. The calculated surface indicated on the packaging refers to roofs with a slope of 45 degrees.

When laying tile shingles, it is forbidden to use a burner; exposure to sunlight is sufficient to bond sticky surfaces. If the work is planned to be done in the off-season, when sunny days are rare, it is recommended to stock up special glue such as Shingle Stick or Plastal. Removal of the lower protective film is carried out immediately before shingles are laid.

Even one series does not guarantee that the color of tiles from different packages will match perfectly, so for laying one slope, shingles should be taken from one package. If circumstances develop in such a way that shingles from different packages will have to be used for laying on one slope, then it is recommended to initially plan their laying out in the form of a pattern.

Installation of bituminous tiles is not done on a concrete base or on a layer of insulation. In warm sunny weather, it is forbidden to walk on a bituminous roof - if necessary, you should use stairs.

Bituminous tile laying - we prepare the crate and lining carpet

For styling soft roof the construction of the crate will be required, it must be solid; OSB-plate, ordinary plywood or board can be used as a material for its construction.

When arranging the crate, the longitudinal side of the boards or panels is laid parallel to the ridge; the seams between the sheets of material should not be allowed to coincide from row to row. After the complete assembly of the crate, a primer roofing should be laid on it, it provides high-quality waterproofing and makes it possible to simplify the process of installing soft tiles, with a roof slope of up to 30 degrees, the roofing sheet covers the entire surface of the slope.

The rules for laying the underlay carpet vary depending on the slope of the roof, for example, if it is about 15-20 degrees, then overlaps will need to be made - about 15 cm vertically and 8 cm horizontally, laying is carried out parallel to the cornice overhangs. If the primer roofing is laid in two layers, then it is desirable to leave an overlap of about 0.5 m horizontally, and 0.3 m vertically.

If the roof has a slope of 20 to 85 degrees, then an overlap of about 5 cm horizontally and 10 vertically will be required, fastenings are made along each joint line, droppers are installed on the soil layer along the edges and cornices, in the future they will protect the roof from ice formation. In the valleys, the overlaps should be vertically - about 30 cm, on the sides - about 15 cm.

Bitumen shingle installation technology

Special difficulties in the process of installing bituminous tiles usually do not arise, of course, if you treat the work with due attention and follow all the steps as carefully as possible.

In order to perform the laying beautifully, it is recommended that you first mark the guide lines on the primer field, which can be guided in the process of work. For every four rows, a horizontal line should be drawn along the slope. First of all, mark out the areas on which windows, outlets of ventilation pipes, etc. are placed.

If there are no foreign elements, then first the middle vertical is beaten off with a cord rubbed with chalk, then, with a step of four rows, the next ones are marked.

How flexible shingles are attached

For fixing bituminous material, it is recommended to use roofing nails, their main differences are large caps, about 0.8 cm, the length of the nail should be 2.6 cm.

They should be hammered back 2.5 cm from the side edge of the shingle and 14 from the bottom. It is important to determine the depth of driving the nail - sinking the cap too deep into the bituminous material will lead to the appearance of recesses, during rain moisture will accumulate in them. Not deep enough immersion of the cap will make it visible. Both options will lead to the fact that the metal fastener will be affected by moisture, eventually it will rust.

• ruffed, characterized by the presence of a cone-shaped headrest that allows wedging a nail, which provides a fairly strong fastening of the shingle,
• screw, with a groove cut along, which provides increased fastening strength.

In some cases, installation is carried out without pre-laying roofing, then brackets can be used for fastening. In this case, you will need to get a stapler.

It will be necessary to purchase special glue even if the installation of tiles will be carried out in the summer, it will be required when arranging valley lines, junctions with windows and walls, and a ridge.

Apply glue with a syringe or spatula. To harden it, a temperature of the order of +10 C is required, therefore it is recommended to apply the glue preheated, this is important for working with low temperatures air.

For a quick setting, the glued shingle can be heated with a hot air gun, do not use a burner! If the weather is hot outside, then hot air treatment is not needed. It is better to press down the surfaces with force, the bonding will become stronger.

About the procedure for constructing a roof from flexible tiles - in the video:

Installation of shingles Shinglas and its features

Start installation after completion preparatory work. Note that one person can easily handle the laying process. Start laying with a ridge eaves tiles Shinglas, for the starting strip, you can also use ordinary sheets, but pre-cut, with cut petals.

Experts recommend: if shingles from several packs are used on the slope, then before laying they should be thoroughly mixed, it is recommended to lay out fragments slightly different in shade randomly, ideally, the drawing should turn out to be abstract.

Remove the protective film from the wrong side of the shingle immediately before laying it.

It is desirable to start fastening the first row from the center, moving towards the edges - this will simplify horizontal alignment. For work, the same galvanized nails are used.

Subsequent rows are also stacked from the center, but always with an offset, enough - half a petal. At correct installation the level of the lower edge of the petals should coincide with the upper edge of the cutouts of the previous row. In places where there is no self-adhesive layer, a layer is applied to the shingles bituminous mastic. She also processes the cut lines of the shingle along the edge of the slope.

In addition, insulation will need to process the exit areas of the chimney and ventilation pipes. It is not recommended to smear all sheets with mastic - this will lead to a loss of decorativeness by the roof.

About the installation of Shinglas shingles - on the video:

To make the roof last longer

To maximize the life of a soft roof and ensure its attractive appearance, you will need to periodically perform simple maintenance procedures:

• in spring and autumn, inspect the roof for leaks,
• debris that has fallen on the roof should be removed using a soft brush,
• if there are objects on the roof with piercing or cutting edges, they should be removed manually so as not to damage the top layer of the tile,
• to ensure a normal flow of water, it is desirable to systematically clean the drainage devices,
• to remove accumulated snow, use light wooden shovels,
• minor repairs of structural fragments should be carried out in a timely manner.

Installation of any roofing requires special knowledge and skills from the installer, however, covering the roof with flexible tiles with your own hands will not be special work even for a person far from construction, especially since detailed installation instructions are in each package.

Bituminous tiles are used on pitched roofs with a slope of up to 11.3°. If the slope is less, compliance will be required additional instructions to installation.

Tools and materials

From the materials you will need: lining and valley carpet, metal planks, bituminous glue, roofing nails, screws, ordinary and ridge-cornice tiles, as well as lead sealing. Required tools: knife, hammer, metal shears, tape measure, spatula. If installation work is carried out in cold weather, then you will need a glue gun and a building hair dryer.

Do-it-yourself installation of shingles

For the installation of flexible tiles, it is necessary to prepare a rigid base from sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards. This will secure installation work, contribute to more reliable sealing of the terminals, and also allow you to effectively compensate for possible condensation moisture. The slabs are laid on the rafters, creating a continuous crate.

A prerequisite for the installation of flexible tiles is the use of a lining carpet, which protects the roof from moisture and guarantees the durability of the entire structure. Experts recommend using RUFLEX U-EL or K-EL carpet as a lining. Laying a carpet on an adhesive basis will not cause any difficulties. With a large roof slope, it is convenient to lay the lining carpet vertically in the direction from the ridge to the eaves, starting from the end of the slope. Valleys are covered first. The carpet fabric is placed along the bottom of the valley, the rest of the fabrics are overlapped by 15 cm. The overlays are carefully glued. The lining carpet is mounted with a good stretch, which will prevent its deformation and sagging in warm weather. Fastening is done with roofing nails, starting from the top end.

With a less steep roof slope, horizontal laying of the underlayment carpet is possible, which should be started from the bottom of the slope along the eaves. For any installation option for bituminous shingles, the edge of the carpet should extend 2.5-3 cm beyond the edge of the wooden flooring, which must be bent inward when installing the metal cornice strip.

Eaves strips are mounted on the eaves and ends of the pitched roof over the lining carpet. To avoid thermal deformation, metal strips are fastened with screws or roofing nails with a wide pitch. The planks are joined with an overlap of 5 cm. The joints are tightly fastened with two nails.

After the installation of the lining carpet and cornice strips, the front of work again moves to the valleys. The fabric of the valley carpet, 70 cm wide and in the color corresponding to the color of the selected flexible tile, is glued on the bottom of the valley between the seams of the lining and nailed along the edges in 10 cm increments.

Laying shingles begins with cornice overhangs. Don't forget to delete protective film from each element of a flexible tile before installation. The elements of the eaves tiles are glued end-to-end in a straight line. If installation work is carried out in cold weather, then the adhesive surface must be heated with a mounting hair dryer or the upper edge of the tile must be fixed with two nails.

Sometimes the material in shingle packages is slightly different in color. In order for this not to be evident in the finished roof, it is necessary to mix the shingles from several packages before laying. The first row requires the greatest attention to laying ordinary tiles. The ledges of the shingles must cover the seams between the tiles of the eaves shingles, and the edges of ordinary shingles must be in a straight line 2 cm from the bottom edge of the eaves. Nails or screws that fasten shingles must pass through the wooden flooring with confidence. Insufficient length of fastening material may contribute to the delamination of the tiling. To fasten the shingle, 4 nails are sufficient, nailed over the pattern cutouts along the adhesive surface to the lower shingle. We remind you that the installation of flexible tiles in warm weather allows you to do without the use of nails.

By the same principle, all ordinary tiles are laid. The parts of the shingles protruding over the ridge are cut off.

In valleys, shingles are glued no closer than 15 cm from the bottom of the valley. The width of the glued edge should be at least 10 cm. As with the ends, there is no need to nail the shingles in the valleys. Adhesive sealing will suffice.

For a good connection to the base of the chimneys and other vertical protrusions, it is recommended to use the PINTARI valley carpet. Four segments of the valley carpet are installed hermetically around the perimeter according to the instructions, raising the edge to a height of more than 30 cm. On the upper edge of the chimney, pieces of the valley sheet are glued to both the chimney and the flexible tiles, remaining under the shingles. If necessary, you can strengthen the structure with nails. Only then can the chimney be sheathed with a metal sheet.

If flexible tiles are mounted on the roof of log houses, then the connection to the chimney must be attached to a pre-mounted plywood collar. This will ensure the subsidence of the abutment at the same time as the subsidence of the log house.

Plastic flanges or EPDM rubber seals, which are used for sewer ventilation equipment and other outlets, are glued and nailed to the underlayment. The tiled shingle is cut strictly along the contour of the outlet and glued around the entire area of ​​the flange.

The last stage of work on the installation of flexible tiles is the laying of ridge tiles. Proceed to it when all the slopes of the roof are already completely covered. The shingle of the ridge-cornice shingles is divided into three equal parts and laid through the ridge with an overlap of 5 cm. The tiles are fastened with nails along the glued edge, and the edge of each subsequent tile should cover the nail heads of the previous one.

The bituminous tile has large quantity colors and shapes, which allows it to be harmoniously combined with any facing materials and building elements. The rough texture of the tiles allows you not to spoil the appearance of the roof with snow retainers, since they simply will not be needed. Solid battens in combination with a solid flexible tile carpet exhibit excellent soundproofing qualities, which ensures comfortable and cozy living. RUFLEХ tiles have a fire certificate confirming their high fire safety. Properly installed bitumen shingles will give the building a respectable look and will effectively serve for several decades.

Installation of bituminous tile RUFLEХ. Video

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The use of a soft roof allows you to carefully and beautifully protect the roof, attic and attic from precipitation. It is possible to carry out the installation of bituminous tiles without the involvement of specialists. For the correct performance of the work, you only need to study the instructions for the selection, use of materials and their fixation.

Preparing for the installation of a roof made of bituminous tiles

The main condition for obtaining high-quality roofing from flexible tiles is the preparation of a perfectly even base. Therefore, after removing the old material, you need to go to the usual truss system nail plywood or OSB. Otherwise soft sheets the roofs will simply sag and the house will have to be re-covered.

Getting started and laying the first rows

For maximum attic protection or attic floor from precipitation, it is recommended to use a special substrate. If the roof slope is insignificant (does not exceed 20 degrees), then it is allowed to fix the lining carpet only in the places of subsequent installation of additional elements. You should also immediately carry out the installation of metal protective strips for the cornice and facade. After the installation of shingles with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The cornice layers framing the roof are laid (they can be replaced with the tiles themselves, you just need to carefully cut it off). They are fixed over the planks with nails with large flat heads. For additional fixation of the roof, the place where it will be laid is coated with bituminous mastic.
2. The first row of tiles is being fixed. It is recommended to take sheets from different sets for this. If they differ slightly, there will be no problems with color differences. It is necessary to lay the first row on top of the cornice layers with a slight rise (there should be a distance of about 1 cm from the edge of the end to the tile itself).
3. When fixing the tiles, the conditions for laying them out according to the pattern are observed. Excess parts are simply cut off. Sheets are fastened with flat-head nails. They provide a reliable clamping of the tile to the base and exclude its damage.

The specified instructions for the installation of a roof made of flexible bituminous tiles will allow you to quickly and correctly carry out the work, eliminate the main mistakes when laying materials. Additionally, you should view training photos and videos that will help you see the process of preparing for installation and the laying of the roofing material itself.

Finishing work with shingles

After laying all the layers of tiles, care must be taken to maintain high-quality ventilation of the roof. Therefore, it is recommended to install a ridge aerator in its upper part. It is a long bar with internal dividers and foam inserts. Such a roofing device made of bituminous tiles eliminates the penetration of moisture under the roof, the danger of settling wasps and other insects in the attic.

On top of the ridge aerator, it is necessary to fix the ridge tiles. It will additionally protect the aerator and achieve aesthetic appearance roofs. After fixing the ridge tiles, you can proceed with the installation of the gutter system.

Special requirements for the installation of a roof made of bituminous tiles

A prerequisite when working with a flexible roof is to take into account the rules for laying materials near pipes and with a multi-level transition between individual parts of the roof. Modern technology installation of bituminous tiles, the use of metal junction strips, passage elements. For example, at the transition between different levels of the roof, it is necessary to fix the cushioning carpet with the help of a plank, another layer of carpet must be laid on top of the overlap. Then the installation of the tile itself is carried out.

When framing a pipe on roofs, you must first select a passage element for it (used for round pipes). It will protect the roofing material from exposure to high temperatures and rapid destruction. The laying and installation of tiles is carried out after cutting them to the shape of a pipe. Similar conditions for laying bituminous materials will eliminate problems with maintaining their original appearance, quality and condition.

Do-it-yourself shingle installation video