Choosing a roof for a log house. Different designs of log house roofs

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his home on his own. According to their reviews, self-erecting a roof is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage, having in mind a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To figure out how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, the procedure for work and the features of fastening all components of the structure.

Roof types

First you need to decide on the form. To date, the most popular types are:

Form Features

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, then the labor intensity of the work will be the least, and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is mounted much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the four-slope, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular gables along the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before proceeding with the independent construction of a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. Such a system has more elements than the previous two. In addition, there is no way to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure is devoid of gables and installation is difficult or unavoidable.

The four-slope is difficult to construct, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, a combined design with. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper part. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the house built more comfortable.

A broken line is not the most “architectural”, but very efficient in terms of space used

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate sections of all elements. In most cases, they can be accepted constructively:

• mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm, depending on the section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account the convenience of connecting with rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• runs - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• pads with a thickness of 32 to 50 mm.

The calculation is usually performed only for rafter and sloping legs. It is required to choose the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• material roofing;
• snow region;
• rafter pitch (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation, for mineral wool between the elements in the light should remain 58 cm);
• span.

You can select the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case, it is recommended to make a small margin.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you do not want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you intend to make a warm roof, then the height of the section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, the installation of a counter-lattice (counter-rail) is provided.

Step-by-step instructions for performing work

The sequence of stages of the construction of the roof is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (the dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, wood treatment with an antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof with the help of racks, struts and puffs;
7. waterproofing;
8. crate;
9. provision of ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. cover installation.

Fixing the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to take care of it reliable connection with the building wall. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - the upper crown of a bar or log acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often they are called sleds. This version of the roof device allows the entire structure to slightly shift when the walls shrink without damage and deformation.

"Sliding" mount in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the upper wall trim will be the Mauerlat. It is attached to the racks of the frame with a gash using corners, staples or nails.

Methods for attaching rafters to the strapping in a frame house

The construction of a roof made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete implies fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to put the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on studs;
• for anchor bolts.

Mauerlat can be fixed on brackets. In this case, masonry with inside pawn wooden blocks. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the Mauerlat, and the other to the same bar in the masonry. The method can also be classified as simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Mauerlat fastening on brackets. In the laying of the wall, antiseptic wooden bars are provided with a step of 1-1.5 m

Do-it-yourself fastening during roof installation can be carried out through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fasteners are laid in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the edge, you need to lightly hit it with a hammer. After that, recesses remain on the beam in the places of fasteners. On them you need to make holes for the studs. After that, the timber is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete in the presence of a monolithic armo-belt.

Fastening rafters to Mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to carry out with the help of a rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat. In this case, you can use both layered and hanging systems. The design assumes two ways:

• with a notch;
• without notch.

In the first case, the rafters are hemmed with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the Mauerlat. For the removal of the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the knot should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will have greater reliability if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixing.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the frame overhang is provided by the beams themselves. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high accuracy. It is suitable for beginners. For a snug fit to the Mauerlat, in this case, use persistent bars or boards. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Fastening rafters to the wall

The frame made must be fixed to the box of the building - this will not allow a strong gust of wind to tear off the roof. To do this, it is necessary to take as a rule the use of a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg at the place of support on the Mauerlat, and after that the wire is attached to the wall on an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in advance in masonry.

Windbreak protection

For wooden house can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this the way is fine only if the walls are made of wood.

System Gain

How to strengthen the frame with spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this, struts and racks are used. It is necessary to make reinforcement taking into account the layout, it is important that these elements do not interfere with the stay of people and harmoniously fit into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. Racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They are allowed to be installed on the underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between the walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce thrust. Because of him, the rafters can simply disperse. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two puffs, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out on self-tapping screws, nails or studs.

At the top, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge run. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross section of 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

crate

Before starting work at this stage, it is required to lay a waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor-diffusion moisture and wind-protective membrane. It is more expensive than plastic film, but provides better protection. Your home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fixing the crate. The type depends on the chosen roofing material. For metal, a sparse crate made of boards 32-40 mm thick will suffice. Under bituminous tiles, a solid crate of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood is needed.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding to the stage of laying the roof, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect the structure from mold, fungus and destruction.

Proper arrangement of ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the eaves (the filing of the cornice is made with a rarefied board or special perforated spotlights);
• air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge (for this, a ridge and / or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roofing

The type of roofing is selected from aesthetic and economic considerations. It is also worth studying the offers of manufacturers and finding out the permissible slope. For example, bitumen shingles are not recommended for laying at a slope of more than 45 °.

Seam roofing is a lightweight, fireproof and durable coating.

The wall material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

By the way, looking ahead a little, we give a photo of a log bath already polished from the inside and outside, with already painted walls, below. Where does this angle come from, you ask? Yes, from the roof of the house, we were just discussing with the stove-makers how they would provide waterproofing for the passage of the fireplace chimney through the tiled roof.

But back to the topic of the article - the construction of the roof of a log sauna. At the time of the start of work, a log bath looked like this (see photo below). The only thing is that the builders have already managed to build scaffolding. Recall (see previous) that upon completion of the installation of the log house on my site (May 2017), we covered it with an awning to protect it from rain. Plus, your humble servant, together with his son, treated the future rafters and floor joists with an antiseptic, so do not be surprised at their color.

Unfortunately on early stages I was not present at work, so when I arrived at the dacha the next weekend, I saw the already erected bottom layer of the pie, made from ordinary unedged, but planed inch boards.

We will tell about the history of the emergence of this approach to the construction of roofs a little later, but now let's take a closer look at what has already been done at this point.

Of course, when I saw the pediments cut almost to the point and internal walls, I even felt a little uneasy, I really felt sorry for the tree, but I understood that such was the technology. By the way, let's talk a little about her. If you remember, when building the roof of a log house (), we first formed the outer layer of the roofing pie (from bottom to top: rafters, waterproofing, sheathing and tiling), and subsequently we plan to build the lower, inner layer (from top to bottom: insulation, vapor barrier, ceiling attic).

Here we have decided to use Norwegian technology roofing - from the bottom up, i.e. the internal ceiling, vapor barrier, rafters are laid out in succession, insulation between them, waterproofing, crate and tiled roof on top. You can already see the material of the ceiling in the nearby photos.

What are the benefits of this approach? Firstly, a single structure is created, which moves evenly when the frame shrinks. Secondly, you immediately get the whole roofing pie and completely forget about the roof, moving on to other things. Thirdly, building such a pie for a log house (from bottom to top) is much easier for builders - you don’t need to hold boards on the weight, etc., only two carpenters can handle this, respectively, it costs you less.

Now let's open a little secret, which was introduced or returned by the builders of Log Rus. Of course, the bottom-up method of building a pie, although not often, was previously used in Russia, but at the same time, lining was usually used to finish the attic ceiling, which was stuffed onto a draft ceiling made of bars, plywood, unplaned boards, etc. . To be honest, walls or ceilings made of lining (that is, narrow planed tongue-and-groove boards) caused us slight irritation and everyone was already pretty tired of socialist realism over the previous decades.

We wanted to get an appropriate one in a log wooden house (more precisely log bath), a nice, inexpensive and functional roof. We thought for a long time what to stop at and, having somehow visited Denis Migachev (general director of Rusya Log), we saw in his bath such a ceiling made of ordinary unedged boards. There was a certain charm in the unevenness of the edges of these boards, it was a reliable and beautiful (unlike lining) construction. At the same time, it is quite inexpensive. By the way, Maxim Marinin also stopped in his bath on this version of the ceiling in the attic and, according to him, was quite satisfied ().

In short, thinking about family council, we also settled on this ceiling design, as they say cheap and cheerful, sorry, ... aesthetically pleasing. Then, already in the process of construction, the carpenters told me that, in fact, Denis introduced this approach with unedged planed boards, which many of his clients had already repeated, now including us.

Let's look at this technique in a little more detail. On the walls of the pediments, cuts are made on both sides, a shield of unedged boards will be laid on these saw cuts. Why are these cuts so big? Because the logs are round in shape and the groove needs to be made so that at the junction of the crowns the edge of the created ceiling shield is not visible. Probably, it is difficult to perceive by ear, but later we will show in the photo what was meant.

On the ridge, the boards of the future ceiling are rigidly attached to the ridge log on large nails (namely, nails, in this situation they are more reliable than fragile self-tapping screws).

These photos clearly show how the boards overlap. It can also be seen that, although these are unedged (i.e., the board does not have the same width) boards, they are qualitatively planed, including from narrow sides.

Consider the grooves in the place of support of the lower part of the roof - this is the upper log of the side wall of the log house (see the next photo). As you can see, a special recess was made on which the boards of the future ceiling were laid. A gap was specially left so that the boards, and with them, the entire roof could move out when the log bath shrinks. I was immediately embarrassed by the nails with which the boards were fixed to this log, but the builders reassured me, saying that these are thin finishing nails (they are usually nailed to the door frames), which will not be an obstacle to the movement of the roof and serve only for the initial fastening of the boards (after this board will be pulled together, with transverse jumpers, etc. - there will be a real strong shield).

And this is how the process of splicing the ceiling shield mentioned above looked like. From above, with self-tapping screws, but so that they do not go to the lower, front part, of the ceiling, our unedged boards are pulled together. In order not to form gaps, the foreman from below determines the place of screwing in the screw and makes an emphasis on this point. The second master screws the self-tapping screw from above with a screwdriver. Everything seems to be easy, but the process actually turned out to be quite lengthy and scrupulous.

And here are our heroes. These are already familiar to us at the stage of installation of the log cabin of the bath foreman of carpenters Petr Markov(in the foreground), by the way, one of the best craftsmen company Rus Log, and his partner Mikhail.

This is what the roof looked like from a different angle. If you look closely, you can see the gaps between the boards, because they still hang only under their own weight, relying only on the ends.

Well, this is the bottom view of the future ceiling. True, this is not quite a ceiling, but rather a gable overhang, but the idea is essentially the same. Notice that there are no visible gaps between the vertical wall of the log bath on the left and the ceiling itself, despite the fact that the logs of the wall have a traditional round shape. The absence of cracks, but at the same time maintaining the ability of the ceiling and the entire roof pie to slide smoothly along the wall when the log house shrinks - this is the main advantage of the groove mentioned above in the gable walls (as promised, we explained the above phrase about cuts on the gables).

If you do not make such grooves in the walls themselves, but try (some craftsmen do this) to figuratively cut out the ceiling boards, gracefully bypassing all the roundness of the wall logs, then the result will be disastrous. Moreover, the problems, of course, will not appear immediately, but after a lapse of time, when the log house begins to sit down and the boards of your ceiling will, in best case just break, and at worst just shoot out due to the tension and effort that has arisen.

Let's take another time jump and look at the picture that we saw on our next visit. After that, by the way, I left the camera to the guys and asked them to take pictures of the most significant moments, so further photo essay will be more consistent.

So what has changed? Of course, the laid rafters immediately catch your eye. By the way, the guys were just engaged in the process of inserting them into the upper logs of the walls. Pay attention to the cord shown in the photo below. First, the first and last pair of rafters were laid, above the gables of the bath. They were very accurately measured in all planes, after which the mentioned cords were stretched. In the future, all the other rafters are laid exactly in the planes measured by the cords, this will be the key to a flat roof.

But the rafters, that was the next step. Prior to this, in addition to the fact that the boards of the shield were pulled together with self-tapping screws, the so-called vapor barrier- a special thread-reinforced durable film that does not allow water and steam to pass through, because the insulation is roofing cake must remain dry.

On top of the film, transverse boards were laid and the rafters were already laid on them. When I asked Peter why the rafters are not immediately laid on the boards of the shield, he explained that, firstly, the surface of the shield is uneven due to overlapping boards, and, secondly, when laying and drawing the rafters, the waterproofing film may be damaged, and so everything turns out beautifully and reliably.

The roof (in the traditional sense) is a part of the building structure that provides protection from all types of precipitation, retains heat or protects against overheating. That is, this is the entire upper structure of the structure.

In fact, from the point of view of Soviet building science, the roof is a pre-revolutionary and illiterate concept, and only the progressive term “covering” should be used. But in life, even professional designers and builders rarely use it. Perhaps due to the possibility of a dual interpretation. In part, the definition of “covering” has taken root in relation to structures with a supporting reinforced concrete or metal base, mainly flat ones. And to call the upper part of St. Basil's Cathedral or the roof of a village hut a “covering” would not occur to any architect, even though they were taught “correctly”.

Barrel roof device

BARREL in architecture, a semi-cylinder-shaped roof with an elevated and pointed top, forming a keeled pediment on the facade. The barrel is found in Russian architecture of the 17th-18th centuries, more often in wood (the churches of the Russian North; the unpreserved palace in Kolomenskoye, etc.), less often in stone (the church in the village of Taininskoye, Moscow Region).

The device of the roof with a barrel was used mainly in the construction of a choir or wooden temples. The ideal coating for the curved surface of the barrel was a plowshare - small boards with a figured edge, laid on the principle of tiles.

A cube-shaped roof is a roof with four convex slopes, having a keeled section with an extension above the base.

Cubic churches were built with mid-seventeenth Until the end of the 18th century, the area of ​​their construction was limited to the Poonezhye and the Pomeranian coast of the White Sea. The cube is a three-part figure: a square tetrahedral belt, on which two tetrahedral pyramids are placed on top and bottom, while the top pyramid is always higher than the bottom one.

In most of the territory of Russia, the roofs of residential outbuildings were duplex. The oldest roof construction is on males (the continuation of the log wall formed a triangle of the roof gable). They covered the roof with a board (long shreds), in the west and south of the European part - with straw. A short shingle - chips - spread at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century (it was already fastened with nails). The gorges were laid on longitudinal poles - slegi and transverse - chickens, so named because they ended with hook-shaped protrusions that looked like a bird. Streams were strengthened on these hooks - wooden gutters for water flow. On the ridge of the roof, the joints were crowded, covered with a massive log - ohlupny.

The gable roof on the rafters receives wide use only in the 19th century (and to this day it is the most popular design). At the same time, the roof rests on beams set at an angle - rafters, which, in turn, rest on the beams of the ceiling.

The real scope for creativity is provided by the design of the roof of the house, crowning the building. Perhaps this the most important detail the entire project. An unsuccessful solution to the upper part of the building can cross out all the architectural finds of the front or end of the house.

The most complex multi-gable roofs in practical implementation have a special architectural expressiveness.

This type of roof is the result of joining two or more roofs different shapes(two-slope, four-slope, inclined), intersecting with each other in skates and valleys. The planes of the slopes are in the form of trapezoids and triangles, rarely - rectangles. As a rule, they form the roofs of houses with a developed spatial form. Style variety. The most popular are multi-gable roofs, which occur when connecting gable roofs that intersect at right angles. Their skates can be at the same height (if both wings of the house are residential parts with exploited attic floors), or on different ones (if one part is occupied, for example, by a garage without an exploited attic). Such roofs are also L-shaped and T-shaped in terms of the house.

A multi-gable roof is a complex architectural form, so its appearance must be thought out to the smallest detail. The creation of harmony and unity of the composition is the equality of the angles of inclination of all slopes, the height of the skates, or the preservation of the same level of the eaves overhang line. Given that the functions of the individual parts of the house are different, the height of the corresponding sections of the roof is different; thus, it is difficult to keep a single line. In this case, it is important to introduce another organizing element, for example, arrange the sections of the roof at right angles. Skates on different height, do not spoil general view, but for the final effect, the choice of a place where the roof located below comes under the roof located one level above is important. Preserving the principle of symmetry helps to make the shape of the building coherent. Similar principles of ordering are also obligatory if the plane of the slope is interrupted by a hatch or risalit of the stairwell. AT traditional houses these elements are located, as a rule, on the surface of the slope in the center, and if there are several of them, then symmetrically.

Temples in Ancient Russia were built according to the type of hut, which is always based on a crown of four logs, forming a square or rectangle when connected, and the whole hut is a few crowns superimposed on each other - a log house covered with a gable or four-slope roof. This principle was also preserved in more complex structures - towers, palaces, fortress towers.

hipped roof

Quite often, clerical churches were rebuilt into tented ones. As you know, it is difficult to convey in wood the shape of a dome, a necessary element of a Byzantine-type temple, and, presumably, this determined the replacement of domes in wooden churches with tented completions. Such a temple with a pyramidal roof has been known from chronicles since the 11th-12th centuries. In the north, which is rich in timber, this type of church, also called in the annals and deeds "drevyan up", is most widespread. These churches are usually very large in volume and often reach extraordinary heights. The essence of this building technique lies in the arrangement of the main room for worshipers in the form of a tower, the roofing of such a tower is arranged “round”, that is, a facet, and formed the shape of a facet, which almost always has the form of an eight-slope pyramid topped with a head. This form is called "tent". The high rise of the tent, like a wedge-shaped ceiling, also required troughs and police to remove moisture.

The hipped temple significantly differed from the Klet temples both in its height and in its strongly emphasized aspiration upwards. This deeply national form of the temple is very beautiful, simple and rational. Preserving the traditional three parts - the altar, the main room and the meal - the plans of the tent temples have one significant difference from the plans of the cells, namely, the main part of the temple forms an octagon. The octahedral upper tier of the temple - the octagon (analogous to the drum for the dome) most often serves as the basis for the tent. This is where the “octagon on a quadrangle” construction comes from, which makes it possible to better make the transition from a square temple in terms of the base to an octagonal tent. But there are temples without an octagon, and without a quadrangle. Rarely, but there are temples with a large number faces and multi-tent temples, in which, in addition to the central tent crowning the log house, small decorative tents were also placed on the porches adjacent to the log house. In general, in the tent style of temple architecture over the centuries, a wide variety of architectural forms and variations have been accumulated, which are being classified according to a number of criteria: “tiered tent churches of the “oct on octagon” type, “tipped tent churches of the tiered type “two octagon on a quadrangle”, “ tiered churches of the “three octagon on a quadrangle” type, “churches of the “octagon on a quadruple” type with many domes, etc.

For a home from any building material the roof truss system is made of wood. Wooden rafters are equally good for any kind of roof. In addition, the tree is suitable for creating any form of roof: one- and two-slope, half-hip or hip, etc. What happens, types and forms can be found by reading this article.

The roof frame for building a house from a bar depends on the chosen form. The complexity of the truss system, the device, the material for it and the calculation of the loads depend on what form it will be.

How to choose a roof shape

The choice of the shape of the future roof for wooden houses influenced by a number of factors:

1. How much precipitation falls in the region where the construction is being carried out. For regions with heavy rainfall, choose a device with a large slope, high, pointed. For the minimum, a flatter and lower version is suitable.
2. Roof type. Depending on what the roof will be and the slope of the roof, a certain material has its own slope during installation.

If the shape of the roof is conceived individually, then you need to calculate the frame for the load and foresee what material will be used as a roof.

Types and forms of roofs

All wooden roofs can be divided into:

1. flat
2. pitched

Flat roofs have a device with a slope angle of less than 10 ° C, more pitched. All these types are divided into forms.

The shape of the roof of a wooden house can have a structure:

• Shed. Tilt on one side only.
• Dvuhskatnaya. Triangular, with two sides.
• Flat.
• Attic.
• Multi-forceps.
• Hip.
• Shatrovaya. (Under a kind of hip but with slopes of the same size).
• Half hip.
• Four-slope semi-hip.

Roof slopes and shape affect performance. The simplest in design are gable and flat wooden.

Shed

This is the simplest flat roof design. Its plane is inclined to one side and rests on the load-bearing walls of the house. On one side, the frame is lower, and on the other, it is higher. Due to the simplicity of the design, it is used for outbuildings.

Gable roof

Advantages of a gable simple wooden roof:

But a gable roof is suitable only for detached buildings, for example, for building a house from glued beams.

Flat roof construction is not suitable for regions with large quantity precipitation. This is due to the slope of the slope. flat roof used for small buildings southern regions. The remaining options are suitable for any latitude of Russia.

A flat roof is similar in shape to the roof of high-rise buildings. This is the most economical option, since a massive truss system is not required. It consists of:

1. Monolithic base from boards.
2. Vapor barrier and insulation.
3. Waterproofing

hip

This version of the roof in the places of the gables has 2 more triangular slopes. These triangular parts are called hips. Design hip roof complex and it is impossible to assemble a truss system without experience on your own. A viewing window is made at the top of the hips.

Half hip

These wooden roofs by design are placed between the gable and hip. The shape of the ends of the gables of this design is tropezoidal. On top of the pediments are semi-hips, small triangular slopes. A full-fledged window can easily be placed in the ronton, and wind resistance and additional decorative effect are betrayed by half-hips.

The frame with the overlap of the lower part of the pediment with a slope is also a variant of the half-hip roof. In this version, the rest of the pediment is triangular and a viewing window is mounted in it. The half-hip has the shape of a trapezoid. This is new and interesting solution in the design of the roof for the construction of a house from profiled timber.

Hip-tent

This shape resembles a tent of triangular slopes, which are connected at the top by one point. The frame has no ridge and the roof is symmetrical on all sides. Convenient design for houses correct form(square, polygon).

For example, imagine a regular gazebo with an even roof made of triangles. There may be three or more of them. This design withstands wind loads well, and snow does not linger on it.

Multi-Force Form

The multi-probe roof frame has many ridges, ribs and valleys. By its design, this is a unique structure designed individually for a specific construction. Such a roof should not be done independently, but it is better to entrust it to professionals.

Attic form

mansard roof

Professionals also call this shape of the roof a broken line. Use this design when installing a mansard roof. The angle of inclination has a kink, which allows you to make the most of the attic space. In shape, the frame has two slopes turning into almost vertical ones. window opening in mansard roof fits any size. And you can make any height.

Dome

This form of roof is extremely rare. Such types are also called conical. It has the shape of a cone, round without corners. In large cottages, the design is used as separate element, such as a turret or veranda. Covering the entire building with this structure is laborious and expensive.

Combined variant

This is the most complex structure, which can combine several previous types at once. Suitable for massive buildings with more than one level, with verandas and balconies, with a large number of dormer and ceiling windows. The design of the combined type is always individual. Such a design is expensive, and it is impossible to mount the frame without specialists.

It is important to understand what simpler design roof, the fewer kinks and bends it has, the more reliable it is. Any enova, apron, or gutter will collect snow in the winter, increasing the chance of leaks and damage.

For the construction of a reliable structure, you need to use only high-quality roofing, insulation and waterproofing. And the rafter system is assembled from dried wood.

The main components of the structure

The entire roof structure consists of nodes that have their own structure and design:

1. Rafter.
2. Crate.
3. Counter crate.
4. Cornice plank.
5. Skate.
6. Roof.
7. Insulation and ridge cap.
8. Endovaya (external and internal)
9. Wind board.
10. Drainage system.
11. Snow barrier.
12. Stingrays. These parts of the structure have a different angle of inclination.
13. Skates. The longitudinal parts, with their help, the slopes of the roof are connected, have the form of ribs.
14. Ribs. This is a connecting device for two slopes.
15. Gable. This is the hanging part of the roof that protrudes above the frame. Has a size of 200 mm.
16. Pipe. It is made in any private houses, used for boilers and ventilation systems.
17. Apron (pipe holder).

The most important parts, frame and load-bearing of any roof are: truss system, crate, Mauerlat. There are additional elements that are fastening (racks, struts, crossbars, spacers, etc.). Fasteners are responsible for the rigidity of the structure.

Mauerlat

Gable roof truss system

The frame of any roof is a truss system. Its design and constituent elements are directly related to the shape and size of the structure to be covered. The location of load-bearing internal walls and supports is also important. For manufacturing use timber, boards or logs. The types of its connection depend on what the material will be.

A truss system made of wood can have a design:

1. Layered.
2. Hanging.

The layered truss system consists of intermediate support beams (one or more). They are located on the bearing wall of the house or on its partitions.

The hanging structure rests on the load-bearing walls of the house, without affecting the partitions. Such a system resembles spacers for walls. To prevent greater pressure on the load-bearing walls of the log house, jumpers are made at the ends of the rafters. They hold back the bursting force on the walls.

For example, consider the frame of a gable simple roof. The distance that is considered differently, since there may be several options for this truss system.

1. If the distance between the bearing walls is less than 6 m. The rafters rest on a beam, which is mounted around the entire perimeter of the walls of the log house (Mauerlat). The rigidity of this design will withstand any roof, and the material consumption will be small.
2. The span between the load-bearing walls is more than 6 m, but less than 8 m. The structure consists of connected opposite rafters with the help of a crossbar.
3. The distance between the load-bearing walls is more than 8 m and less than 12 m, in rare cases 16 m. The structure has a rafter system, but with its own characteristics. Intermediate racks will rest on the inner walls. One such support makes it possible to cover with a roof about 12 m. If about 16 m, then there are two supports.

If there are no internal bearing walls, and the gap between the main ones is the same 12 m, it is advisable to use a hanging system. In this case, the rafters will rest on the puff, and the puff on the Mauerlat. The puff is made solid, but if this is not possible, you can use a composite one.

The most extreme stops are installed first. The raging roof plane depends on them. They are the main ones in the truss system. Intermediate rafters are installed depending on the selected material for insulation.

crate

The frequency of the lathing is directly related to the roof. For a soft roll, you can make a solid one. It is made from plywood or OSB. For ceramic or metal roofing material, a crate with a step of 50-60 cm is suitable. The strength and appearance of the roof depends on what material is chosen for the roof.

Roofing materials

When ordering a turnkey service or building a house with your own hands, the question arises, which roof to choose? Materials suitable for the roof of a wooden house various kinds:

• Roll roof.
• bituminous coatings.
• Metal tile.
• Ceramic tiles.
• Slate.
• Ondulin.

For low rise buildings one-story house better fit light roof(profiling, metal tile, ondulin). Repair of the roof from these materials is done quickly, it is easy to lay the sheets. These roofings cost: corrugated board - from 210 rubles, ondulin - from 270 rubles, metal tiles from 320 rubles. The material is produced by both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Ondulin has advantages during rainfall. It is soft and soundproofing will be higher. The metal tile looks more beautiful and does not hold back snowdrifts. Decking is economical. All have a wide range of colors. Decking is sold unpainted, it costs from 170 rubles.

For massive houses, cottages, both light and heavy roofing materials (ceramic tiles) are suitable. Installation of such a roof is more difficult, and the price is from 430 rubles. But snow and water do not accumulate on the roof, the sound insulation is increased, the roof is durable and can withstand heavy loads.

For country house you can use the most economical options (roofing material, slate). These materials do not look very attractive, but the price of slate is from 70 rubles, roofing material from 90 rubles.

What nuances need to be considered when planning a roof frame

The shrinkage coefficient for different types of wood is different:

• Beam and log natural humidity– shrinkage 10%,
• Profiled and edged kiln-dried timber - no more than 3-5%
• Glued laminated timber - no more than 2-3%.

When planning, it is important to duplicate the roof marks before and after shrinkage. If this is not done, the repair will need to be done after the first year.

This must be taken into account when choosing a material for the frame of the truss system. In order for the roof to last for a long time, it is necessary:

1. The device of the truss system is calculated.
2. A house made of wood of natural moisture must withstand at least 1 year before installing the roof.
3. Choose high-quality roofing material without saving.

After Assembly wooden roof you need to constantly monitor and check the device, it is important to repair all minimal breakdowns immediately. Otherwise, you will need overhaul, and this is an extra material cost.

The content of the article

Nowadays, the construction of houses from wooden beams is widely used in different regions countries. Even in ancient times, our ancestors built such houses not only because wood was an affordable material. Houses made of timber are distinguished by their appearance, excellent living conditions, and it is easier to breathe in them. After all, wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material.

The roof is one of the most basic elements of a house. From its quality, correct calculation and appearance depends on the overall picture of the building. When building a roof on your own, the question always arises of how to cut down the roof. If there are no skills in the construction of the roof, then it is better to entrust its construction to professionals.

We build a roof for a house from a log house

The construction of the roof of a house made of timber can be of any type. It all depends on the desires and capabilities of the owner of the house. But the best and easiest, and therefore cheaper, to do gable roof, which you can build with your own hands.

However, first of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the main parts of the structure and some construction rules. Only then can the roof be cut down. It consists of two main parts:

• rafter system;
• roof.

Log roof truss system

The roof truss system is its basis. If it is made efficiently and reliably, then the entire roof structure will delight the owner of the house. The rafter system in its composition has the following elements:

• mauerlat, which is the basis on which the entire system is created;
• rafters;
• skate;
• strut system;
• crate.

In a roof for a log house, where the load-bearing structures must rest on the middle wall, the rafters are positioned so that one end of the rafters is attached to outer wall, and the second should rest on the struts, which are fixed on the middle wall of the house. Mauerlat in the truss system of houses from a bar is not built separately; for this purpose, the upper crowns of the log house or ceiling beams protruding beyond the wall are used.

The rafters are fastened with metal staples and nails. If a stove or stove is planned in a private house gas heating, then it is necessary to provide openings for chimney or ventilation pipes in advance, strictly observing all fire safety rules.

The second, no less important element in the construction of the roof is the observance of the order of laying all its layers:

• special vapor barrier film;
• heat-insulating materials;
  waterproofing;
• counterlattice;
• crate;
• roofing.

To additional elements roofs include a drainage system, skylights or skylights, ventilation equipment in the form of aerators, fencing, bridges, walkways, cornices and slats.

Thus, it becomes clear that the construction of the roof of a log house is no less difficult than at home, and requires careful preparation and high-quality painstaking work.

Recently, log cabins with sloping roofs have become popular in private construction. Such a roof gives the house more volume and makes it look like an old wooden tower. Such a roof may have two or more slopes. Under the sloping roof, more space is created, which allows you to use the attic for household needs, or make a living space - build an attic.

However, it must be borne in mind that a log house with a sloping roof has a large roof surface area. And this means that the load on the truss system will increase, and it needs to be strengthened. Rafters and sheathing boards that are thicker should be used. In this case, it is necessary to reduce the distance between the supporting structures of the roof.

When building a roof, especially a broken type, it is necessary to take into account the expected loads on it:

• weight of the roof
• wind loads,
• in winter time snow cover thickness.

That is, it is necessary to take into account temporary and permanent weight loads.

Installation and composition of the roof depends on the purpose attic space. If there is a dwelling in the attic, then work on high-quality roof insulation is necessary.

For normal operation of the roof, it is always necessary to follow the sequence of work and make the necessary gaps for ventilation.

First you need to install the rafters, which are made from the board conifers section 25x150mm. The next step will be the laying of a vapor barrier film, on which the slats of the counter-lattice are sewn, and after that the crate is arranged. For different kind roofing lathing is performed differently. For sheet roofing materials, the crate is made with gaps, for bituminous soft materials the crate should be arranged with a continuous flooring. As a rule, the thickness of the boards is 20-25 millimeters.. The insulation layer, if a living space is planned in the attic, is laid between rafter legs by surprise, and from the side of the attic it is supported by a frame that will serve as the basis for filing the attic ceiling. The final stage in the construction of a sloping roof will be the installation of roofing material and a drainage system.

All wooden elements, both the log house and the roof, should be treated with antiseptic compounds and flame retardants, for a longer service life of the entire house and protect it from fires.

How to make a roof on a log house with a roofing in the form of a metal tile.

Before starting the installation of roofing on the roof, the geometry of the entire roof should be checked. That is, so that there are no problems during the installation of the coating, the distances along the diagonal of the slopes should be approximately the same.

The rafters must be perpendicular to the ridge and the outer walls of the log house. The step of the crate should be chosen so that it is convenient to fasten the metal tile.

Some advice from professionals when building a roof in a log house and installing metal tiles.