Technology for assembling a house from profiled timber 200x200. How to build a house from a bar with your own hands? Installation of individual elements

Environmental friendliness and high quality characteristics are inherent in wooden housing construction. From round timber, our grandfathers collected entire towers, the beauty of which still arouses admiration. And thanks to modern antiseptics and neomid, a wooden frame is not afraid of fires and fungus. In installation on your own, it is easier to use a beam of the correct shape. How to make a log house from a bar with your own hands, the main stages of installation, the rules and recommendations of specialists can be found in this article.

We design your house

Before assembling a house from a bar, it is necessary to choose the right project. Log cabins are assembled according to standard or individual projects, they can differ in architectural complexity or have simple shapes. If you plan to assemble a ready-made factory log house, then we recommend that you opt for a standard project, which has the following advantages:

1. The log house has already been tested in operation, and the manufacturer has eliminated the main shortcomings.
2. The material for manufacturing is used as economically as possible, so the price of a finished box is cheaper.
3. It is easier to choose finishing material and roofing, as you can see with your own eyes several finished houses and chat with the owners.

When choosing an individual design, timber is also the most suitable material. It has the correct shape and can be adjusted to any size. Therefore, with the advent of this lumber, it became possible to assemble wooden boxes of the most complex and unusual shapes.

By choosing a beam of the desired section, any project can easily be adjusted to any region with different average temperatures and climates. For a garden or country house, a small section material is suitable: 100x50 mm, 100x100 mm. For permanent residence, a timber with a section of 150x150, 150x200, 200x100 mm is taken. The simplest option is a square section - 150x150 mm. The square shape allows you to quickly assemble the walls without selecting the technical and external side. But provided that the bar is simple. In this case, a section of 150x150 mm must also be insulated.

One of the economical options is profiled material. The spike and groove on the technical sides of the beam are firmly connected during installation and create a reliable barrier to the wind. The walls are insulated with a tape heat insulator, right during assembly. And if the front and back sides are additionally polished, then after assembling the box, you only need to go along the walls with paint and varnish material and the house is ready for living.

A separate group is a log house made of glued lumber. This beam consists of lamellas, which are interconnected under the influence of a press and glue. But scientists are still arguing about the environmental friendliness of glued lumber. From the positive stands out: high strength of the walls and increased thermal insulation properties. So for the construction of a residential building from glued material, a section of 100x100 mm is suitable; at winter temperatures up to -15 degrees, additional wall insulation is not needed.

When choosing a project, it is worth considering what type of timber the walls will be assembled from. Since further finishing work depends on this, which means additional material investments.

Where to start?

When the project is selected, the assembly of the log house from the timber begins. The basis of the house is being prepared - the foundation. Since the material is light, any kind of foundation will do:

1. Columnar;
2. Ribbon grillage;
3. Tape.

We do not recommend monolithic, as this is the most expensive option, which will be cost-effective only if the soil is mobile and heavily crumbling. For loose soil with high groundwater, a pile or column foundation is suitable. How to build a house if the soil is swampy and mobile? It is wise to use screw piles. It is easy to mount them with your own hands, and there will be less “walking” in the future. But, choosing a columnar or pile foundation, it should be understood that in the future the basement of the house will have to be additionally framed and insulated. Otherwise, there will be no basement or cellar in the house, and heat loss after the basement is insulated will decrease by 15%.

One of the most popular types of foundation for a wooden frame is tape. It got its name for its external resemblance to a concrete strip rolled out on the ground. The height of the foundation is selected individually and is associated with the characteristics of groundwater.

With a high level of groundwater and freezing in winter by more than 1.2 m, you can use the tape grillage option. The design combines concrete tape, but on piles every 1.5 - 2 m. And first the piles are poured, then the formwork is made under the ribbon. Before pouring, it is recommended to calculate the cubature of the foundation, this will reduce the cost of concrete.

A detailed technology for assembling a strip-grillage foundation is disclosed in one of the previous articles.

Lego for adults

The manufacturer will deliver the finished log house to the site in a sealed package, it will be easier to assemble it with your own hands. It is difficult to assemble your house from a solid bar without experience and skills, since the correct connection of the corners is required. But more on that below.

strapping

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation. The tree is airtight, and through microcracks in the foundation, moisture will get to the first crown and over time it will begin to rot. For work, you will need materials: bituminous mastic (price from 350 rubles) and roofing material (price from 220 rubles)

Waterproofing is carried out as follows:

1. From above, the foundation is smeared with hot bituminous mastic.
2. The first layer of roofing material is rolled out from above. When joining, the material is overlapped.
3. The roofing material is again smeared with bituminous mastic.
4. The finishing layer of roofing material is rolled out.

The width of the roofing material should exceed the width of the foundation by 15–20 cm. The remaining ends of the roofing material can later be hidden under the plinth sheathing.

First crown

The first crown of the log house is laid according to the level on the dried waterproofing. The cross section of the first crown is larger than the others in the box. This will increase the stability of the structure.

The first crown of the log house is the most important in the design, so to increase durability it is worth overpaying for larch or aspen. They are less susceptible to moisture, and over time acquire a hardness comparable to iron. But we do not recommend using aspen from the Volga region. The tree has a fragile core and is not suitable for construction in 90% of cases.

Before laying, the first crown is covered with protective compounds (Sanezh, Belinka Bio, Tikkurila, Neomid 440 and Valtti Aquacolor (price from 120 rubles/l). across the foundation tape, the boards are sewn to the base with metal pins.The slats are 10 mm thick and create an additional gap between the foundation and the strapping, which creates additional ventilation.The wooden strapping is attached to the foundation with metal anchors.But the box is attached to the base only for light structures Large houses with several floors are quite heavy and will not move from the base without additional fasteners.

Folding the box

It is not difficult to build a log house from a ready-made kit, but you will have to tinker with a solid beam. There are several options for corner joints of a beam with a balance and even:

1. Assembly in the paw. At the ends of the beam, spikes and nests are cut out for them. It has disadvantages: it is blown, over time the material will dry out and serious insulation will be required.
2. In dovetail. The option is similar to the previous one, but has a special cut at an angle. Minus the difficulty drank.
3. Into the bowl. In each beam, a bowl is made from below for the upper link. The top crown fits into the bowl and creates an airtight connection. Cons: you will need a skill and a special cup cutter.
4. Half a tree. Half of the section is sawn in each end part. The upper crown is placed in the resulting nest. Minuses in blowing and unreliability of the connection. To increase grip, a dowel is made of wood, which connects the ends.

Corner connection with the remainder is considered warmer and more reliable. The corners and the timber are additionally connected to each other with the help of dowels. Nagels are used wooden or metal. The latter option is more reliable, but when the log cabin dries, cracks form in the walls, and metal pins spoil the appearance of the house. Wooden dowels can be made independently from the remnants of lumber or birch. Nagel will give the structure additional strength, and will not allow the beam to twist when it dries. Nails are attached to every two crowns, skipping one, in increments of at least 150 cm.

A jute insulation is rolled between each beam (price from 110 rubles). If the material is profiled, then between the spikes and grooves there is a special chute for laying tape insulation. If timber joints are needed along the length, then a joint in the root tenon is used. The essence of the connection is in the sawing of a spike and a groove, which are securely connected and additionally fastened with dowels.

Internal partitions in a log house can not be immediately assembled. They are made with a smaller section material and are attached to the main walls. But if you plan a two-story log house made of timber with your own hands, then at least one partition is assembled immediately. It serves as an additional support.

Draft floors can be laid immediately. They further serve as the basis for a warm "pie" of the finishing floor. Mineral wool or ecowool, foam plastic can serve as a floor insulation. The most inexpensive option is to use foam, it will give additional sound insulation between floors.

It is not recommended to cut window and door openings in a log house immediately. The building must stand. Even chamber drying during the first three months will shrink at least 3%, natural moisture content of at least 10%. Before inserting the frames, a pigtail is made, which will give the structure greater strength and prevent distortions during the walking of the soil.

Choosing a roof and roof

A rough roof is erected until complete shrinkage. If the timber is chamber dried or glued, then the shrinkage is negligible and you can proceed to the finishing roof. Any material is suitable as a roof: corrugated board, ondulin, soft tiles. The most economical option for garden houses is roofing felt or slate. The step of the crate will depend on the choice of the roof. The softer the roof and the flatter the roof, the more often the crate is made. For example, under a soft tile, a thin plywood substrate is made at all.

The design of the roof is selected individually. But the fewer bends and corners in the design, the more reliable it will be. The easiest option is a shed roof or a gable roof, they are assembled by hand.

The rafter system is assembled from the laying of ceiling logs. A bar with a section of 100x50 mm is suitable for work. The technical side will be 50 mm. The front and frame of the truss system are assembled from a material with a section of 150x100 mm. They are attached to the Mauerlat, which is laid on the top of the wall. A bar with a section of 150x150 mm is taken as a Mauerlat. The most difficult thing in installation is to install the first rafters and matrix. You can attach the truss system to the walls using metal brackets or anchor bolts. Logs and Mauerlat are connected to each other with the help of a thorn-groove lock. Readers can read more in the article on roof installation.

The finished roof is insulated and waterproofed. This is necessary to reduce heat loss in the house. Next, proceed to additional insulation and decoration. A wooden house will shrink completely after three years. This time it is not recommended to carry out grandiose design finishing works, but it is already possible to live in the house.

What's the price

As you know, the road will be mastered by the walking one, but the owner’s hands are not always sharpened for construction work, or work eats up all free time. Specialists will assemble the log house in a few weeks, and the quality of work will be high. The price of installation will depend on what work needs to be done. There are two types of standard services for the installation of log cabins:

1. Full construction.
2. Easy assembly.

The service differs by the list of works. Turnkey installation includes: foundation (casting, formwork), box assembly, truss system, roofing, draft floors and ceiling, installation of windows and doorways, all internal partitions. A simple assembly may include separate jobs. For example, the foundation is made by hand, and the box and rafter system are assembled by specialists.

I wanted to build a house. Immediately faced with the problem of material selection. There was not much money, but I wanted to get a reliable, warm and durable house. Having studied the proposals of the modern construction market, I decided to stop at

On the forums, it is advised to build houses with a section of 15x15 cm. But I had to build it myself, sometimes with a friend, i.e. I didn’t want to involve third-party workers, so I decided not to use a heavy 15-centimeter beam. Instead, I bought dry material with a section of 15x10 cm. Then, when the wood shrinks, I will insulate the walls from the outside with mineral wool, and the house will be warm.

To further save on construction, I decided to use only local materials. You can take my story as an example of guidance and navigate the situation.

Foundation pouring

First, I cleared the area under the house from debris, bushes and other interfering things. After that, he began to arrange the foundation.

I had to think for a long time what type of foundation would be suitable specifically for my area. He studied the geological conditions, found out the composition of the soil and the level of groundwater. The specialized reference literature helped me with this. In addition, I asked the neighbors on what foundations their houses stand.

I live in the Ryazan region. Local conditions make it possible to save on the arrangement of foundations, so most of the neighbors' houses stand on light supports made of limestone and concrete. Most often, they even refuse reinforcement - such is our wonderful soil. The soil is sandy, therefore, it is not "heaving". The water runs deep, and wooden houses weigh a little. Therefore, there is no need to equip buried monolithic supports in my region.

Started by digging trenches. To begin with, he removed the fertile ball. Sand appeared. For a better seal, I spilled it with water. Then he laid out the trenches with stone and laid two reinforcing bars. Bandaged them in the corners. I think that the tape is best reinforced both at the bottom and at the top. And so he did.

To save yourself from unnecessary work, you could order ready-made building concrete with delivery. However, in my region this turned out to be unrealistic - there are simply no such proposals. And my plot is such that the truck would have to go through the garden, but I don’t need this.

Alas, this way of saving will not work in every region. For example, if I lived somewhere in the Moscow region, I would have to make formwork, install a spatial reinforcing frame, and only then pour the building mixture.

While the concrete is gaining strength (and it takes 3-4 weeks for this), I will prepare the consumables.

Bar prices

Find out more detailed nuances from our new article on our portal.

Preparatory activities

Preparation of dowels

The connection of the crowns of the beam is carried out using wooden dowels. I decided to make them from scraps of boards left over from other construction activities. In my case, it was the arrangement of the roof lathing.

For pins, use the hardest wood possible. The process of making fasteners is extremely simple. I took the board scraps and beveled them on one side with a suitable saw.

Then I set the stop and started sawing to size. In my situation, the size was 12 cm. As a result, I got neat and beautiful blanks.

The planks were cut with a band saw. As a result, I received a whole box of wooden sticks. Next, I sharpened the blanks with an ax on each side and got my dowels.

Moss preparation

Nagels, sphagnum peat moss and planks

The technology requires that between each crown of the timber be laid. Professionals usually insulate with rolled materials. Working with them is easy and convenient - just roll the material over the laid crown and you can continue to work. However, you have to pay for the convenience and ease of processing.

I decided not to spend money and use moss. Firstly, this material is full in nature - go and collect. Secondly, moss is not only a decent insulation, but also an excellent antiseptic. Additionally, I worked through thematic forums: moss is actively used as an interventional insulation, and there are no negative reviews about it.

For insulation, red or peat moss is best suited. The first one is highly rigid. The second after drying becomes brittle. It is best to use red moss whenever possible. It is easy to recognize it - these are long stems with leaves resembling a Christmas tree.

Making jambs

I make them for every door and window opening. To do this, I use a flat bar. Knots, if possible, should not be at all. For greater convenience, I made an impromptu workbench right next to the stack of my lumber. Made longitudinal cuts. A circular saw helped me with this. Excess material was removed with a chisel.

Not even every professional carpenter can do the right jamb. Therefore, I decided to make jambs for windows using a simplified technology. In each window opening, I will install only a couple of vertical jambs. The window block will be directly responsible for the horizontal connection.

To install the block, you need a "quarter". However, here I figured out how to simplify the task. Instead of a sample (it is shaded in the photo), I decided to paste the bar. To do this, the plane was sharpened in advance. The result turned out no worse than it would have been in a situation using a quarter.

It is impossible to reduce the number of jambs in the doorway - all four are needed. However, the shape of the products can be greatly simplified.

I chose in the bar, which in the future will be the threshold, grooves similar to the recesses in the side jambs. This allowed me to put the bottom bar on the spikes of the opening. However, at this stage, the timber would have to be cut with a chisel across the wood fibers - the occupation is not the most pleasant and simple. I found a great way out of this situation! Taking a circular saw, I prepared the cuts, first setting the appropriate output of the disc and making a parallel stop.

Then I took a spade drill and made a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm, as for dowels. At the end, I sawed out an even rectangle across the wood fibers. A reciprocating saw helped me with this.

Carpenters usually make two rectangular nests in the threshold, and from the bottom of each vertical jamb they make out a reciprocal ledge, cutting down and sawing out excess wood with a chisel. I decided to make holes, as for mounting dowels, and scored a couple of fasteners. I made similar holes at the bottom of the jambs.

I haven’t touched the upper horizontal beam yet, but I nailed a small board to the threshold - it will take over the functions of the “quarter”. The design of the opening turned out to be extremely simple, but this does not prevent him from coping with his main function. In the future, I will cut the opening and glue the “quarters”.

Required Tools

To build a house from a wooden beam, I used the following tools and fixtures:

• hammerless electric drill;
• circular saw;
• roulette;
• sledgehammer;
• electric planer;
• square;
• reciprocating saw;
• plumb;
• hammer;
• water hose;
• axe.

To cut a wooden beam, I bought a circular saw. I had to cut in two passes. First, he drew a line on the square, after which he cut, turned the beam over and again made a cut. It is best to transfer the line to the second face of the beam also using a square. If you are confident in your "eye", you can cut "by eye".

With the help of a circular saw, I made spikes and recesses for the corner joints of the bars. When arranging the spikes, I lacked a slight depth of cut, so I had to make a couple of extra movements with a hacksaw.

Building a house

Rules for laying the lower crown

Laying the starting crown is traditionally done with a joint known as "in the floor of the tree". This knot is made without any problems with a circular saw - it is enough to cut the material along and across. In some areas, the depth of cut turned out to be insufficient - here I worked with a hacksaw, after which I got rid of excess material with a chisel. By the way, in my case, the lower crown is the only one that is connected with nails.

I put the lower crown on the lining of the boards. There are gaps between the elements - in the future I will make air gaps there. In my area, they are usually in the wall, not in the concrete base. This option has its advantages. Firstly, making vents in the wall is easier and faster. Secondly, at a certain elevation, the wind moves at a higher speed than directly at the ground, due to which the underground will be better ventilated.

Bar cutting. Connection "in half a tree"

I am going to mount the floor beams on the linings - so, as I think, the loads on the base will be distributed more evenly.

Linings and timber of the lower crown covered. As practice shows, the material laid at the very bottom rots the fastest. In my situation, there are linings below, and not the beam itself. In the future, if the boards rot, they can be replaced with much less effort than the beam of the lower crown.

reciprocating saw prices

reciprocating saw

Features of laying the second and subsequent crowns

Starting from the second crown of masonry, work is carried out in the same order. At the corners, I connected the timber with the help of root spikes - the usual adjunction of elements is unacceptable here.

Taking a circular saw, he cut a couple of cuts. The cutting line was transferred to the second face with the help of a square. The root spike is easy to do, everything is shown in the photo. If the disk output is insufficient, the depth can be increased with a hacksaw. The groove is even easier. Also shown in the photo.

Important note! Keep in mind that in the tongue and groove joints there should be approximately 0.5 cm gap for laying the seal. A joint where the wood just touches the wood is unacceptable.

First, I set the depth of cut I needed. With my saw, you can change the output of the disc without any problems - just loosen the lever. The add-on is easy to use. If in traditional carpentry the master sets some parameter of the working tool and prepares the required number of workpieces of the same type, then in carpentry the situation is somewhat different: the material is dragged onto the workbench, and the cutting depth is adjusted directly in the course of work.

My saw is equipped with a thin blade - it takes much less effort to cut. The safety guard moves very smoothly and does not interfere with the cut.

My house will have walls longer than timber, so I will have to splice the building material. To do this, I made a gash from both ends of a long beam, removed the excess with a chisel and got a spike in the middle. The ledge is ready, now we need a groove. Cutting wood with a chisel across the fibers is not practical. I went to the trick and drilled a simple through hole in the second bar. The length of the drill was not enough to create a through hole, so I had to drill from both sides. Next, I cut off excess wood from the workpiece, made markings and cut through the beam along the fibers with a chisel. Connected spliced ​​bars. Gaps filled with moss.

Useful advice. In the crown, which is the beginning of the opening, it is better to immediately make spikes for the jambs of this opening. In the process of cutting the timber, it will not be possible to completely make the spikes with a saw, it will be necessary to additionally gouge with a chisel to complete the process. In the next photo you see the bars already with mounting spikes. Thresholds for door openings are shown as templates.

He laid the second crown on the lower one, correctly completing the corner joints and the necessary splices along the length. It's time to make markings for installing dowels - connectors for the crowns of my house under construction. I took a square and put down vertical marks on the bars at the bottom and top, in the places where the fasteners would be placed. Turned over the top bar. Moved the markup to the center of my beam. After I drilled holes for the fasteners and drove the dowels into them with a hammer.

What do you need to know about pins?

Logically, a round dowel would have to be driven into a round hole. Builders, on the other hand, adhere to a different technology and use square-section dowels. Such fasteners are also easier to manufacture, and the connection is held much more reliably. At the same time, a short dowel will not interfere with the process of shrinkage of the structure.

The problem is that it is impossible to drill a strictly vertical hole with a hand drill without the slightest deviation. When installing the bar of the next crown on a pointed and slightly protruding dowel, the first one will stagger a little. In order for the timber to be firmly fixed, it must be additionally besieged with a sledgehammer.

The dowels I use work for shear and ensure proper shrinkage even if there are slight deviations from the vertical in the mounting holes. There will be no cracks. First, the timber will shrink. Secondly, the space between the crowns is filled with insulation, which I will discuss later.

Once I had to observe how builders made holes in the wall from a bar using a long drill and drove long round dowels into them, outwardly similar to cuttings from a shovel or rake. Were these holes vertical? Naturally, no. In the end, the beam did not settle, but seemed to “hang” on the dowels, which led to the formation of impressive gaps between the crowns.

Having driven in pins, I laid tow and moss on the crown. The tow was laid across the bars. Moss just sprinkled on the tow. As a result, tow hangs from the walls. Thanks to this, in the future it will be easier for me to caulk the walls. Moss will also provide decent building insulation.

I set the bars on the dowels, laid the tow, threw in the moss, laid siege to the crown with a sledgehammer, but for some reason it still staggers. This happens due to the presence of gaps in the corner joints. In my situation, the dimensions of these gaps were up to 0.5 cm. I filled them tightly with moss. A spatula and a narrow strip of metal helped me with this.

The attentive reader will ask: what about tow? Is it not necessary to lay in the corners and her? No no need. First, as I said earlier, moss is a very good natural antiseptic. My house will stand for a long time without any finishing, and sedimentary moisture will continually flow down the corners. Moss will not let the wood rot in these places. Secondly, in the future, the beam in the corners will probably have to be cut. Moss will not interfere with this. Tow can also lead to breakage of the planer.

Tow prices

Now my corners are strong, insulated and windproof. At the end of the day, I covered the corner joints in order to protect them from possible precipitation.

In the picture you can see that one of my beams is located higher than the other. But they must be at the same height. We are not in a hurry to immediately turn on the electric planer - it is quite possible to cope with such a problem with a simple sledgehammer.

I worked with a planer at the very end, when the interference with the installation of the next crown became clearly visible. With a planer, I compared small “screws” and “humps”. He compensated for more significant differences in height with the help of tow and moss - it takes much less time to arrange them than to process wood with a planer.

What does it cost us to build a house!

You have already familiarized yourself with the basic principles of laying each crown. There are important nuances. Firstly, the crowns must be laid with alternating corner joints. Secondly, the internal load-bearing wall of the house must be connected to the longitudinal wall. This is done through one crown. For binding, I use an already proven and familiar connection. Only here I drill holes for dowels “staggered” in relation to the lower crowns. After that, I lay tow and moss, and placing each beam in the place intended for it, I seal the joints in the corners.

That is, the procedure for building a house is extremely simple:

• I lay another crown;
• I make markings for dowels;
• drill holes;
• I drive in wooden fasteners;
• I lay tow, I throw moss on it;
• I repeat the sequence.

Along the length of the bars, they are joined by the “spread out” method.

Having reached the height of the window sill (this is the seventh crown for me), I made markings for arranging window openings. I calculated the width of each opening by adding the dimensions of the jambs and sealed gaps to the width of the purchased window block. There should be a pair of gaps on each side of the opening - between the jamb and the window block being installed, as well as between the jamb and the wall of the house. As a result, in my situation, the required width of the window opening was 1325 mm. Of these, 155 mm went to the gaps.

According to the results of the calculation, I installed a crown with a window opening, having previously cut spikes in the bars, similar to the stage with door openings.

The following crowns with a window opening were laid from bars without spikes, observing the same overall dimensions.

I equipped all the window openings from “shorty pieces”, the evenness of which was disturbed during the shrinkage of the timber - such material would not work for walls, but it’s a pity to throw it away. Didn't do jumpers. Equipping the opening, he constantly checked its evenness with a plumb line. I also checked the walls.

I temporarily fastened a separate wall with rails so that it would not fall during work. The T-shaped structure, as well as the corner, do not need additional reinforcement - they are perfectly held by their own weight.

Important note! In the places where the spikes of the opening and the cut line are arranged, i.e. only a few centimeters from the edge, I did not lay the tow, because when sawing, it would be wound around the cutting disc. In the future, the tow is knocked out from the ends without any problems.

After laying the last crown with a window opening (it needs to be temporarily laid without fixing and sealing), I removed the upper bars and made cuts for the spikes. He put them on jambs. Having set the saw blade to the required depth, I set a parallel stop to maintain the desired indent from the edge. It didn't take me much time to do this. I didn’t succeed in cutting the timber to the desired depth with a circular saw - I had to finish it with a hacksaw.

In the lower crown of the opening, I made spikes to control my assembly. I did not do this in the last crown - in the future, the spikes will still have to be created in each beam.

From personal experience, I was convinced that assembling the entire height of the opening for a window without a connection, and from not quite “shorty”, is not an easy task.

Light and short cuts can be tried on before making a recess or spike. It may well turn out that a bar deviating to the left will fall on a bar deviating to the right. As a result, a flat wall will be built. If both beams deviate in the same direction, you can not count on the evenness of the wall.

To eliminate deviations, you can plan the “screws” with a planer, or lay the timber with a “ladder”. It was my second case. I also eliminated the gap with a planer. At each stage, I checked the verticality of the openings being erected using a plumb line.

Jamb installation and shutdown

Placed the top crown. It's time to mount the jambs of each opening. Thanks to these simple elements, the strength of the finished structure will be significantly increased. The lower bar of each opening is equipped with a full-fledged spike. On the upper bars there are cuts in the required places. I attach a guide, set the desired cutting depth and make a cut with a circular saw. After that, I draw a couple of lines from the ends according to the size of the spike and get rid of excess material with the help of a chisel.

My spikes have a smaller width than the grooves. I fill the gaps with thermal insulation material. If you wish, you can make the spikes wider, and only then, at the stage of finishing the house, cut down excess material and fill the gaps with a sealant.

Inserted temporary spacers between the jambs. In the future, I planned to attach a veranda to my house. If you plan to make an extension, do not lay the top crown of the beam before the start of its construction. I also mounted less on the crown.

The box is ready. I covered it with a temporary roof, closed every opening and left the house until the next season. The beam will just have time to shrink. After that, I will continue, which I will definitely tell you about in my next story.

Instead of a conclusion

While the house is shrinking, I decided to take stock. Firstly, I was glad that much less money had to be spent on the foundation when compared with other types of supports. It took some money to dump the stone. There is also a lot of sand in my region - you can dig it yourself and bring it. Most of the money was spent on cement and rebar.

Secondly, I was pleased with the affordable cost and relatively low consumption of building material. When the timber was brought to me, I laid it out in a pile about a meter high and two meters wide. At first it seemed that I miscalculated somewhere and there was not enough material for me. As a result, about 20 bars remained unused. In general, I spent about 7.5 m3 of timber with a section of 15x10 cm for the construction of a house with dimensions of 6x10 m (the timber part in it accounts for 6x7.5 m). I would have spent 1.5 times more money on a timber of 15x15 cm. Yes, and additional labor would have to be hired, which is also not free.

Thirdly, I saved on fasteners and thermal insulation. Nageli made himself, the moss is free. The tow was given to me with pleasure by my friends after the completion of their construction activities.

Fourthly, I did not have to buy highly specialized and expensive tools. Everything that I used for construction will be useful to me in the future. Particularly pleased with the purchase of a good circular saw and concrete mixer.

Now about the speed of work. I did not have much experience in building from a bar. As practice has shown, for the whole day, working in one hand and subject to good weather on the street, you can lay out one crown with a partition. You can do it both faster and slower, I will not argue.

And the main advantage of such construction is that it does not require any special skills to carry it out. And I personally convinced myself of this.

I hope that my story will be useful to you, and you will be able, just like me, to make your dream of owning your own home come true.

Video - Do-it-yourself log house

One of the most suitable materials for individual construction is wood. Wood is affordable, easy to work with, and in terms of cost, lumber is more affordable than other building materials. Another advantage of wood is its relative lightness, which reduces the cost of building a powerful foundation for a house.

These and other advantages of wood have led to the fact that wooden private construction is relevant and in demand. And if there is demand, then there is supply. Moreover, the natural shortcomings of wood, as a building material, are leveled by complex manufacturing technologies of modern lumber, one of which is.

Benefits of a log home

• can be built quickly. A company (team) of three people, having minimal skills in using carpentry, locksmith tools, is able to assemble a box at home in a season;

• log house is environmentally friendly and has a unique microclimate. In addition, a good air flow through the wood will provide a sufficient level of air exchange;

• timber is an excellent heat insulator and allows you to save heat and save on heating;

• no need to immediately invest a lot of money in construction and decoration. These processes can be separated in time;

• a log house has natural beauty, presentability and style.

Stages of building a house from profiled timber

Let us briefly list all the stages of construction, and dwell in detail on the key ones that relate directly to working with timber.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building a house from profiled timber:

stage number	Name	Content
1.	Design	- a typical project of a house made of profiled timber; - individual project (unique).
2.	Foundation	- definition of the type (tape, pile, slab); - calculation of characteristics; - excavation; - formwork device; - installation of the reinforcing cage; - pouring concrete; - a set of strength.
3.	Building a box at home	- waterproofing; - the first crown.
4.	Draft floor	- is laid down during the construction of the walls.
5.	Box assembly	- subsequent crowns; - interior partitions; - intermediate floors.
6.	Installation of the truss system	- roof truss system; - warming of subroofing space; - laying of roofing material.
7.	Installation of individual elements	- installation of columns, supports and other vertical elements; - installation of window and door blocks; - arrangement of stairs to the second floor (attic, attic).
8.	Interior finishing	- connection of communications; - finishing (facing) of the room.
9.	Exterior wall treatment	- grinding; - treatment with an antiseptic, primer, flame retardant, painting.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Stage 1. Design

It is impossible to build a house from profiled timber without a project. Having a project is a direct guide to action. But first things first.

First of all, you need to decide whether to focus on ready-made (typical, free).

• standard project tied to the area and reflects the wishes of the person who ordered it. But such a project will cost much less. Given that the standard length of the beam leaves its mark on the size of the premises, we can say that there are not so many different variations. Therefore, most users acquire, or download from the network, a finished project and make the necessary adjustments to it;

• individual project is developed from scratch, the estimated cost is shown in the table

When developing a new one or making adjustments to a finished project, you need to take into account the factors indicated in the table:

№	Factor	Description
1.	Type of residence: permanent or seasonal	Influences the choice of the cross section of the beam and the need for insulation
2.	Material	Humidity: Natural drying timber (moisture content 15-18%); - (humidity 12-15%) Geometry: Rectilinear; - curved. 100x100 - for gazebos, outbuildings, seasonal houses; - 150x150 - for a house of permanent residence with insulation, baths; - 200x200 - for a permanent residence, elite houses. Profile configuration: German ("comb") does not require the use of insulation; - Finnish (Scandinavian) makes it possible to use rolled thermal insulation material.
3.	House area	- the convenience of the location of the rooms; - number of storeys; - installation location and parameters of the stairs; - assignment of rooms; - the number of people living at the same time and their specific needs (for example, pensioners, disabled people); - possible number of guests.
4.	Location of the house	- remoteness from communications; - remoteness from other objects on the site (reservoir, sewerage); - landscape design of the site; - soil type, freezing depth; - location of access roads; - orientation to the side of the world (important if there is a large area of ​​glazing). Affects the energy efficiency of the house; - distance from the boundaries of the site.

The result of the design stage will be the availability of project documentation approved by the relevant authorities, namely:

List of main documents:

1. Foundation drawing (with a detailed description of the composition, depth of laying, layout by material, etc. As well as detailed data on soil, groundwater, etc.).
2. Building plan (prepared based on the drawing of the foundation, but also with a detailed description).
3. Floor plan, detailed plan (partitions, windows, doors, stoves, fireplaces, etc. are indicated in detail).
4. Razbrusovka (this is a detailed drawing of the walls of the house in a section. According to the razbrusovka, you can place an order for the manufacture of timber (house kit for the house)).
5. Specification of every detail of the house.
6. Roof drawing, with a detailed description of the truss system and all layers.
7. Final view of the house.

Calculation of timber for a house

At the design stage, the required amount of lumber is calculated. The calculation is carried out on the basis of the distribution specified in the project.

As already noted, the construction of timber houses can be carried out by using moldings or marked parts from a house kit.

In the table, a comparison of approaches to construction, which is better, a house kit or on-site installation (molding)

Factor	moldings	Domokomplekt
Design complexity	The ability to implement any design project by picking up parts from a bar on site	A kit for a complex project is more expensive, plus, not every plant will undertake to produce
The ability to make adjustments to the project	Easier, cheaper, faster	Impossible, a house set made of profiled timber is made for a specific project
Construction time	Significant (2-6 months)	Shortened (up to 1-2 months)
Price	From 8 thousand rubles. per sq.m.	From 11 thousand rubles. per sq.m. (depending on the complexity of the project)
Risks	- exposure to external factors during storage; - the risk of damage to the timber when cutting or arranging the bowl; - risk of deformation; - risk of additional costs (due to errors in calculations and manufacturing).	- the risk of lack of labeling (checked when paying for a house kit); - the risk of getting poorly made bowls due to poorly tuned production equipment.
abuse	Workers may inflate the price, citing the complexity of the project and the difficulty of sawing the bowls. There is a risk of getting a significant amount of waste.	None.

When building a house with your own hands, it is important to correctly calculate the amount of timber needed for work, because. shortage and excess entail additional monetary costs.

• The easiest option is to contact the seller (manufacturer). When buying lumber, the seller usually does not take money for the calculation. But, it should be remembered that the distributor is inclined to round off the amount of timber, which, given its cost per cubic meter. quite costly.

• The second in complexity and risk is to use the calculator for calculating the timber for the house and set the parameters for the calculation. This method is quite accurate, although it is not without drawbacks. Among them: a defect in the timber, not taking into account the shrinkage of the house, trimming errors.

• The most difficult, but also reliable, is an independent calculation for spreading. To do this, a sketch of the house is made, on which dimensions are applied, and the amount of material is calculated manually. So you can calculate the number of units of timber of the desired length. To the number obtained as a result of the calculation, you need to add 5-7% for trimming, low-quality timber.

Note. A good profiled beam has clearly defined parameters and is cut with an accuracy of 1 mm, which allows you to be sure of the accuracy of the calculations.

The choice of section of profiled timber for building a house is determined by SNiP II-3-79. The calculation for Moscow according to the standards of the specified document is given in the table:

Note. When buying timber for building a house, you need to pay attention to the presence of a cut, which is designed to reduce the likelihood of cracking the timber.

Stage 2. Foundation for a house made of profiled timber

Compensation for shrinkage of a log house

Shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber is a natural process caused by the properties of wood. Drying the timber in a natural way or in a chamber, allows you to reduce the moisture content of the wood and reduce the percentage of shrinkage. But it cannot be completely excluded. Shrinkage is 3-5% for kiln dried profiled lumber and 8% for air dried lumber.

Given this feature of profiled timber, construction companies offer two types of construction of houses from profiled timber:

• to shrink. The work is to be carried out in two phases. First, a box is built, and after a year and a half of inactivity, they begin to install a warm circuit (windows, doors), stairs, do interior decoration, etc.;

• Full construction. In this case, the work is carried out in one run, and the installation of elements is carried out in compliance with the requirements for shrinkage compensation.

Stage 7. Installation of individual elements

Do-it-yourself construction of a house from profiled timber is usually done under shrinkage. But if there is a need to quickly move into the house, then you need to adhere to the following recommendations when installing building and decor elements, which, unlike walls, shrink to different heights and at different speeds:

Window and door openings.

They are formed by installing the frame in a casing box (pitting, casing). Thanks to the sliding structure of the frame and the expansion gap, windows and doors do not deform when the house shrinks.

Note. When installing doors and windows, mounting foam is not used, because. it hardens and does not have sufficient flexibility. Natural insulation wrapped in a vapor-permeable film is used.

Columns, poles, racks, supports and other vertical elements.

They are installed on adjusting systems - jacks (shrinkage compensators), which will allow you to align different shrinkage values.

Roof elements.

Rafter legs are attached to the upper crown by using sliding elements.

As for the installation of sliding fasteners at the installation site of the ridge, opinions are divided here. Some masters advise doing it. Others emphasize the sufficiency of one sliding connection along the upper crown.

Ladder.

This element is advised to be installed after shrinkage of a house from a bar. At least one year after construction, when the main shrinkage occurred. Installation is carried out as follows: the base of the stairs (string or kosour) is attached to the ceiling also using sliding elements.

Stage 8. Interior decoration of the house from profiled timber

Finishing work, such as installing a drywall frame, is also recommended after shrinking a house from a profiled beam. However, the use of sliding fasteners will allow you to get to work earlier.

It does not make sense to perform plaster work or lay tiles on the walls from a bar. These materials are difficult to deform during shrinkage, which leads to the appearance of cracks or shedding of the material.

Stage 9 Exterior wall treatment

Do not forget that a house made of profiled timber needs protection from external factors; for this, after construction, antiseptics and fire retardants are applied to the walls. The frequency of their application is determined by the manufacturer of the product, and is usually 3-5 years.

Good reviews about such materials:

Fire retardants:

• Phenilax. The cost is 650 rubles / 6 kg.
• The cost is 440 rubles / 1.1 l .;
• NEOMID 450-1. The cost is 1,339 rubles / 10 liters;
• OZONE-007. Cost 4,990 rubles / 48 kg;
• Senezh OgneBio Prof. The cost is 1,790 rubles / 23 kg.

Antiseptics:

• Aquatex primer. The cost is 2,090 rubles / 10 liters.
• Nortex-Transit (concentrate). The cost is 8,123 rubles / 19 kg. This composition is a transport one, i.e. It is intended only for processing wood during transportation or storage. It is not recommended to cover finished walls, because. it does not penetrate into the structure of the wood, providing only surface protection.
• Senezh. The cost is 750 rubles / 10 kg.

Impregnation for protection and tinting of wood:

• lacquer Krasula. The cost is 2,700 rubles / 11 kg;
• Senezh Aquadecor. The cost is 2,680 rubles / 9 kg.

Building a house from profiled timber - video

The cost of building a house from profiled timber

The construction of a house from a turnkey timber or with your own hands consists of such factors as:

• material;
• fare;
• consumables;
• the complexity of the project;
• the size of the house;
• project cost;
• payment for the services of a construction team, if they are involved in the performance of any work or consultations;
• costs for obtaining permits for connecting communications, etc.

Conclusion

We hope that this instruction explains in sufficient detail how to build a house from a profiled beam on your own, and the result will please more than one generation of users.

The construction of a wooden dwelling requires carpentry skills and appropriate carpentry tools. The construction process consists of several stages, not too complicated, but very responsible. Before you assemble a house from a bar, you should carefully study the technology, choose the right material and make calculations. This will help not only to qualitatively complete the task, but also to reduce construction costs.

Site preparation and foundation construction

For the construction of a log house, a strip foundation is best suited. They begin work with site preparation: they remove high vegetation and stones, level all recesses and mounds, make markings. According to the marking, they dig a trench with a width of 25 cm, the depth of the trench depends on the quality of the soil on the site and the height of the building. The beam is a relatively light building material, and therefore a one-story house made of timber can be installed on a shallow foundation. If it is planned to build 2 floors or the soil under the house is too loose and unstable, the depth of the foundation should correspond to the depth of soil freezing, from 1.2 to 1.5 m.

Types of timber and logs.

For the manufacture of the foundation you will need:

• crushed stone and sand;
• concrete mortar;
• boards or plywood for formwork;
• iron bars for reinforcement;
• building level.

Crushed stone with sand is poured into the prepared trench, and then a reinforcing mesh is formed from the rods. It is not recommended to use welding to connect the rods; it is better to take a knitting wire. Formwork is fixed on the sides of the trench and concrete mortar is poured. If it is not possible to buy a ready-made mortar, you need to mix cement with sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 3: 4; the grade of cement should be 400 or 500. It takes about 2 weeks to stand the foundation.

Laying the first row

The frame of a wooden house from a bar.

Related article: We consider all the properties of GF 021 and other similar mixtures

For a log house, it is necessary to choose only whole even bars without visible defects. The first crown should consist of the strongest timber cut from the core of the tree. This can be determined by the density and arrangement of the rings on the cut. It is very important that the wood is dry and light - beams with dark spots or gray cuts are not suitable for a log house.

During the installation process, the following materials and tools will be needed:

• ruberoid;
• liquid bituminous mixture;
• antiseptic;
• wooden dowels;
• plane;
• drill;
• hammer;
• hacksaw.

The surface of the foundation tape is covered with liquid bitumen, on which roofing material is laid. Such waterproofing reliably protects the house from a bar from the penetration of moisture from the foundation and extends its service life several times. The width of the roofing material should be 20-30 cm more than the width of the foundation, so that its edges hang over the same distance on both sides. At the joints, the material is overlapped by 7-10 cm, thickly coated with bitumen and pressed firmly.

Beam fastener.

When assembling the first row, you need to decide on the type of corner joints. The most economical option is the “half-tree” connection, when the upper part is cut out at the lower beam, and the lower part at the upper one. With this method of fastening, less material is consumed, the ends of the bars do not go beyond the corners of the building. Before starting the assembly, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic and dried, and then holes for the dowels are drilled. These holes should be located along the beam every one and a half meters.

After processing the building material, they begin laying the first crown. First, the first 2 beams are laid out on the foundation from two opposite sides, then 2 more with cut grooves at the ends are lowered on top of them at a right angle. The corners are tightly adjusted with a sledgehammer and the entire row is leveled, the protruding sections should be corrected with a planer.

Arrangement of floor coverings

Floor for the house from a glued bar.

Related article: Strip foundation: types and features

When the first row of the log house is laid and fixed, it is necessary to mount the floors for the floor and the base of the load-bearing walls. During the installation process you will need:

• wooden beams with a section of 150x100 mm;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• level and tape measure.

In two opposite bars, shallow grooves are cut from the inside every 40 cm. Experts recommend cutting not rectangular, but T-shaped grooves, the ends of the beams are cut accordingly. This tie-in method is called "dovetail" and is used to increase the strength of the frame connections with internal partitions and ceilings; You can make such grooves using a manual milling machine. When installing floor beams, it is imperative to check their horizontalness with a building level. All beams must be in the same plane, otherwise the floor of the log house will be skewed.

The erection of the walls of the building

The device of a wall from a bar.

The next step is building walls. For work you will need:

• timber;
• insulation;
• building level;
• pins;
• hacksaw;
• chainsaw.

In order for the assembly of the walls to be of the highest quality, special attention should be paid to connecting the corners. There are several ways of bandaging a log house: in a bowl, in a paw, on a root spike. The first 2 options are used for round logs, while the third method is ideal for a rectangular beam. Dressing on the root tenon is somewhat laborious, but at the same time it gives the maximum density of the joints. The process itself looks like this: at the ends of one beam, 2/3 of its thickness is cut off, leaving an even rectangular spike. At the ends of another beam, a groove of the appropriate size is cut out, into which the spike will enter. After joining, the bars are fastened with dowels to the previous row and the next.

In each row, the arrangement of grooves and spikes should alternate.

Nagels are metal and wooden; when building a log house with your own hands, it is better to use wooden fasteners. The standard thickness of the pins is 25 mm, the height is from 120 to 150 mm. It is recommended to drill holes for fasteners 2-3 cm deeper. The walls are assembled according to the following scheme: a row is laid, corner joints are adjusted, a heater is laid on top along the perimeter, the next crown is laid and dowels are driven in.

All photos from the article

The technology of construction of log houses, as well as houses from round timber, has a number of features associated with the specifics of the building material. For example, in the project it is necessary to take into account a decent shrinkage of the house, and a lot also depends on whether the house was assembled correctly from the beams. Given the many nuances, this issue should be considered in more detail.

General stages of log construction

The assembly of wooden houses from a bar is only one of the stages of building a house, in addition to this, the construction technology includes such stages as:

• foundation arrangement - it makes no sense to consider this stage in detail, it is only worth noting that a strip reinforced foundation is suitable for a 2-story house, and a columnar or grillage option may be enough for one-story buildings;

• then there is the direct assembly of the beam from the log house, the laying is carried out along the crowns, and here the execution of the work may already differ in details. Some prefer to use dowels for greater strength and rigidity of the walls, others use profiled timber without dowels. This stage is discussed in more detail below;

Note! Profiled solid lumber usually undergoes chamber drying, so it is ideal for building a house. Its cost can be considered a small minus, but the increased price is justified - after all, the buyer receives a bar with minimal moisture, which reduces the shrinkage period and the likelihood of cracking the tree.

• then a roof is built and the house is allowed to stand. The time during which the house "sits down" varies greatly depending on the conditions of construction, the type of wood, the type of lumber, and even the time of their harvest;

• the final interior decoration of the house, the installation of windows and doors can be performed after the complete shrinkage of the house. In order to at least roughly navigate the timing, you can use a moisture meter, the average moisture content of the timber should not be higher than 20-25%.

Note! If the deadlines are running out, then glued laminated timber can save the situation. Assembling a house from glued beams does not provide for a long standing of the house, this is not necessary, since the beam itself is glued from several pre-dried boards.

More about building a house

Assembling a house from logs or timber is a rather painstaking work, so it’s better not to rush. The negligence made at this stage can turn into serious troubles in the future, which cannot be 100% eliminated.

Walling

For additional protection of the log house, the bars of the lower trim are first laid on the foundation, their cross section is slightly larger than the thickness of the future wall. And if the foundation is columnar, then the assembly of a log house from a bar involves the use of a double lower trim. This is necessary due to the fact that the bars will bend, so you need to increase their height.

Note! Before laying the lower trim, a layer of a waterproofing agent must be applied to the surface of the foundation (coated waterproofing can be used).

After that, you can proceed to laying along the crowns, until one crown is laid, it is impossible to start laying the second. If an ordinary solid beam is used for construction, then it can be recommended to use dowels through 3-4 beams with a step between them of 2-3 m. Dowels can be both wooden and metal and significantly increase the rigidity of the wall, the risk that the wall will lead when it dries is significantly reduced.

In principle, the assembly of a log house can be carried out without additional joining of the beams in a vertical plane. This is quite acceptable when using profiled dried timber, in this case, the selected grooves on the surface of the lumber are sufficient.

But usually pins are still not neglected - they do not greatly affect the final cost, and an increase in reliability will definitely not be superfluous. Moreover, quite often preference is given to wooden dowels, metal dowels are not very suitable for these purposes, since condensation can form on their surface, and this is fraught with rotting of the wood.

Also of great importance is the type of timber, or rather the profile of its surface.

The following options are possible:

• german profile(comb), characterized by a large number of small teeth. In this case, assembling a profiled beam with your own hands does not require laying a heater between them;

Using this method of combining bars is difficult to consider appropriate in our time:

• the risk of timber decay from the inside increases (due to condensation on the metal);
• the cost of such studs is high (it can reach up to 400 rubles / m), since screeds are installed in increments of 1.5-2.0 m to a depth of 30-40 cm, then in total such a purchase will cost a lot;
• one of the advantages of this method, some call adjustment of shrinkage, but this is not true. The only thing that can be achieved is that the bars will not lead when dried.

There is an opinion among professionals that the trend of using screed studs has gone since the time when the assembly of glued laminated timber was still being mastered. It was necessary to minimize the warping of the timber in any way, and the screed solved this issue. In principle, the Finns also use something similar, but there metal ties are used only on outlets, this is justified.

In a completely budgetary version, it is also possible to assemble a bar on nails, but this is not the best option, its only advantage can be considered perhaps a small cost.

Floor device

After the walls have been erected, you can start building the floor of the first floor and interfloor ceilings.

The instruction for the installation of the floor of the first floor will look like this:

• the beams will be attached to the beam of the lower trim. If a double beam is used, then in the upper one you can simply make cuttings up to 5 cm deep and thus rigidly fix the ends of the floor beams. In the case of a single beam, steel brackets can be used to support the ends of the beams on them;

• further, small bars are attached to the bottom of the beams to create a support for the subfloor. A draft floor is laid on them;
• then follows a layer of insulation, on top of it - a vapor barrier membrane;
• only after that it is possible to lay the finishing floor boards on the floor.

The design of interfloor ceilings can be simplified and dispense with a heat-insulating layer. At the same time, floor beams can be left as an element of the interior, this will only decorate the room.

Ready houses from a bar

If the cost does not matter, then you can order a finished log house. That is, the question of how a house is assembled from a bar does not have to be solved, specialists will first assemble it at their production site, then disassemble it, deliver it to the construction site and assemble it again. After that, you can proceed to the finish.

At the same time, the process itself is a bit like a designer - all the details are already perfectly sized and marked with numbers. So it remains only to arrange them in accordance with the project.

According to the same scheme, the assembly of a bath from a bar can also be performed. Although, the bath is not such a large-scale structure, so you can try to build it yourself. To facilitate the work, you can use ordinary dried timber and nails instead of dowels to combine the timbers.