Tips and effective ways to dry the cellar in the garage. How to dry out the cellar: disinfecting the cellar, using a heat gun, a portable brazier and candles How to dry the basement of the garage from dampness

Dampness in the cellar is a huge problem for most summer residents and suburban residents. As a rule, humidity rises due to poorly made heat or waterproofing, as well as due to a large number vegetables and fruits stored indoors. In some cases, condensate is formed due to the lack of ventilation system. Whatever the reason, a wet cellar is in no way suitable for storing food in it, which, with constant exposure to moisture, will quickly deteriorate. That is why moisture must be removed and completely eliminated from such a phenomenon as condensate. We will talk today about how to dry the cellar and properly prepare it for laying the crop.

Carrying out preparatory work

Humidity in the cellar, as a rule, is at a sufficient high level, so condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. Preparatory work include the complete emptying of the premises from vegetables stored there since last year (they are no longer suitable for consumption, so it is best to remove them from storage).

In addition, it is recommended to temporarily get rid of the wooden elements of the room (racks, pallets, various bins, boxes, shelves, etc.). All wooden structures take it outside and then rinse hot water and soapy water. They must be completely dry before further use.

Before dehumidifying the air in the storage, all supplies and products from there should be taken out.

Fairly common and effective method disinfection of the wooden elements of the storage - applying a layer of whitewash with the addition of ordinary blue vitriol. As a whitewash, as a rule, ordinary lime acts, which can be found on sale in any store. Humidity and condensation in this case will not affect the wood.

In addition, in order to protect wooden elements from mold and fungus, it is necessary to apply antiseptic impregnation on them. You can use any composition sold in the store.

The walls and ceiling of the vault can also be whitewashed and dried later. Otherwise, due to increased dampness in the room, it will not be possible to keep the crop in the proper form. In the fall, when it rains continuously, it will not be possible to dry the cellar qualitatively, so all work should be carried out in the summer.

How is storage drying?

In order to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar, it is not enough just to open everything ventilation holes and manhole cover. In the cellar, the air will systematically cool down, and the moisture from it will condense, so it will not work to dry the underground room with ordinary ventilation. Air humidity and condensate, even after several days of keeping the vault with the hatch open, will not go anywhere. To dry the cellar before the seasonal laying of the crop, more radical methods should be used.

There are several of the most common ways in which the drying of the room is carried out. Humidity and condensation are big problem, but with forced drying, it is quite easy to get rid of them.

So, you can remove excess dampness, humidity and condensate in the following ways:

Drying a cellar or vegetable store with an iron stove.
Drying the basement using a brazier.
The use of the most common candles, which will improve the natural draft of air.
The use of special dehumidifiers.

It should be noted that heating the storage with an iron stove is extremely time-consuming and troublesome, so it is recommended to abandon this method immediately. And not everyone has the opportunity to install such a stove in storage. It is better to use the remaining three methods, since it is important to dry the cellar quickly and without unnecessary hassle.

Fast drying with a roaster

You can remove excess air humidity and condensate from the cellar using the simplest brazier. This device is not large sizes(portable) is in almost any suburban economy. In any case, you can ask your neighbors.

The brazier quickly heats up the air in the room.

Before drying the cellar with a brazier, it is necessary to partially get rid of excess dampness with natural drying within a few days. In this case, the brazier will only “finish off” the remaining dampness, humidity and condensate.

If you did not find a suitable device for drying or a brazier, then you can make it yourself from the simplest old bucket.

The drying process itself is as follows:

Before drying, we open all the holes that go to the cellar (manhole, ventilation pipes).
Next, we lower our brazier (bucket) to the bottom of the storage. You can do it yourself or with a rope and a hook.
We kindle a fire in the brazier. It must be maintained for some time until the damp air completely leaves the room.
According to the laws of physics, warm and dry air from the bottom of the cellar will gradually rise, displacing damp air into open holes. After some time, the cellar will dry out completely.

The principle of drying the basement using a brazier from an ordinary bucket.

Before drying the cellar in this way, it is necessary to provide for some nuances:

To ignite the brazier, it is recommended to use sawdust and wood chips. As soon as the fire breaks out, larger wood can be thrown into the brazier. It is important that the brazier is ignited before you lower it to the bottom of the cellar.
The heat from the fire will quickly warm up the room, bringing damp air out. In turn, dry air will quickly spread through the cellar. It is necessary that the whole room is saturated with smoke. This will get rid of any biological activity in the storage, which also negatively affects the storage of vegetables and fruits. The effect of heating the air in this case will persist for a long time.

However, the condensate in the cellar does not always disappear immediately after drying, so you need to wait a bit and, if necessary, repeat the event, as well as check the quality of the ventilation system.

Drying the cellar with a candle

If you don't feel like messing around with the brazier, there's an easier way to keep your cellar dry and damp. To do this, you need the most ordinary candle.

The candle must be placed under the exhaust pipe.

A lit candle, placed under the exhaust duct, will increase the air draft, and also allow you to get rid of dampness. It will take much longer to dry the cellar with a candle than with a brazier, but if you have nowhere to rush, then this method can be used without problems.

When using the candle drying method, it is required to increase the length of the ventilation pipe (inlet if two pipes are used). This must be done. Further, a lit candle is installed directly under the inlet of the exhaust pipe. The candle is best placed in a small container (for example, in a jar).

To give a certain impulse, which will become the beginning of air draft, it is necessary to set fire to a paper sheet in the exhaust pipe. Next, the thrust will be maintained by a candle flame.

It has already been noted above that this is a slow drying method and it can be used if you have enough time. All work on drying the cellar is best done a few days before harvesting, so that the room has time to warm up, dry out and get rid of all biological activity. With the help of a lit candle, you can dry the cellar in 3-4 days. During this time, you will have to change a few candles.

If the cellar is large, then getting rid of dampness and humidity with a candle will not work.

Air dryers

Since it is difficult to dry a large cellar with improvised means, for effective disposal from moisture, special dehumidifiers are used. These devices allow you to dry the room qualitatively, and then maintain the humidity indicator at a normal level. It is advisable to dry the air in the cellar periodically.

Appearance and scheme of operation of the dehumidifier.

Dehumidifiers are especially relevant for commercial operation. basements and vegetable stores. Modern dehumidifiers are sold in large construction stores, as well as in specialized departments, so there will be no problems with their purchase. For information on how to dry a cellar with a dehumidifier, it is best to ask a sales assistant who will be able to advise a model suitable for your room.

The principle of drying stagnant and damp air in the basement is that moisture always condenses on cold surfaces. The air passing through a conventional dehumidifier is cooled, and the moisture settles in a special receiver, after which it drops into a drip tray. Dehumidifiers work on the principle of cooling the air, not heating it (unlike a brazier and a candle), so the appliance will cool the cellar to some extent. However, on sale you can find such devices that at the outlet will heat the air to its original temperature.

Modern dehumidifiers work on the basis of freon (like refrigerators and air conditioners). The air will enter the dehumidifier with the help of a fan. If your home also has humid air, then a basement dehumidifier is fine for use in other areas of the building as well.

Which method to choose?

You can make the cellar absolutely dry and suitable for storing fruits and vegetables using any of the proposed methods. One or the other method should be chosen based on total area your cellar. For example, there is no need to buy an expensive dehumidifier if your cellar does not exceed 2 square meters. m. In this case, the problem of humidity is easily solved with the help of a brazier or a candle.

It will be possible to lower fruits and vegetables into the cellar immediately after all work on drying the premises is completed. It should be noted that it is not recommended to dry the cellar additionally during operation. This approach will negatively affect the quality of stored vegetables.

In order to avoid the need to often dry the cellar, it is necessary to foresee the presence of a high-quality ventilation system in advance. For small cellars, a design of two pipes (supply and exhaust) located on different height. They will provide continuous replacement of air. If the cellar has a large area, then a device is recommended forced ventilation. In addition, if it is the floor of a dwelling, it will be necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. The cold air from the storage should not be allowed to affect the microclimate in the house.

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, a production building, as well as in a private household, it is required to test the system involved by the forced flow method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved, and the act of testing the internal sewerage and drain systems will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.

A visual check should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the appendix of the "D" series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

For perfect use window technology not last place play metal ebbs on the windows, which are the most important detail decoration of window groups for the facade of the building. The main and, perhaps, one of the leading values of metal tides on exterior windows is protection against moisture ingress, prevention of precipitation and other negative factors that are typical for natural phenomena. The ingress of moisture without the presence of ebbs leads to the rapid destruction of the structural elements of the building, reduce the performance of the property as a whole.

Additionally, a metal tide with a polymer coating plays not only a protective function, but also original decorative characteristics, giving high aesthetics to the facade of the building as a whole. Installation is carried out both at the stage of completion of construction, and in the process of carrying out finishing works for window openings or for the facade of the property. Priority and rational option is the installation of a metallic brown tint with a diameter of 5 cm before the completion of the finishing process of the building. In this situation, the installation will be less expensive and allows you to detect defects in a timely manner. The second option is also common, but it requires extreme accuracy, and in some cases it is necessary to invest additionally cash in order to achieve a high design solution.

Almost any experienced builder and expert will tell you that the Grand Line gutter system is the epitome of unsurpassed quality and operational reliability. If we look at the installation instructions for the Grand Line gutter system, we will note that turnkey solutions have high European quality of execution. The main technical components and assemblies are made of hot-rolled galvanized roofing-type steel, which has a double-sided polymer coating based on polyurethane. The modern Grand Line gutter system is not subject to corrosion, has a sufficient service life, and is not affected by external factors, including negative impact ultraviolet, aggressive materials chemical nature, which can get into melt or rain water.

The Grand Line gutter system brand first saw the light in 2005, and since that time the products have been repeatedly modernized and improved, as a result of which it was possible to design a high-quality drainage system for a residential building or an industrial building at a factory. It should also be noted that the composition of the Grand Line gutter system is being improved every year, and high-quality polyvinyl chloride, improved galvanized steel, modern materials based on plasticizers and stabilizers, as well as imported plasticizers. All these factors make it possible to operate the popular Grand Line drains in any climate zone peace.

In the section on the question of how to dry the underground in your house, very damp, asked by the author Nadezhda hudonogova the best answer is now the right question. There must be breathing in the house, they must be at a height of 15 cm from the ground in middle lane and ventilate the basement. As a rule, in a private house there are about 6 - 8 windows of approximately 20x20 cm. In summer they are open to the winds, but metal bars are installed in them so that small rodents do not enter the basement. If you don’t have one, then the task will be to make breathing holes in the floor in the house to ventilate the underground. This means that it is necessary to drill or cut holes of about 10x10 cm in the corners of the rooms. For decoration, they are also covered with metal bars. To quickly disappear the smell of rot will have to initial stage open underground. install a fan and dryer. Also, now it will be necessary to treat wood from fungus and rot, there is enough of this stuff like "Senezh" in the markets. Good luck.

Answer from 22 answers[guru]

Hello! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: how to dry the underground in your house is very damp

Answer from Adaptability[guru]
we light a blowtorch and dry

Answer from Easily[guru]
there are special sealants. you buy a powder, dilute it in water, pour it into the basement, it absorbs all the moisture, turns into a gel and hardens

Answer from Neurologist[guru]
Heat gun. After that - waterproofing, drainage along the perimeter to the depth ground water, device for breathing, processing with Senezh, or just vitriol ...

Answer from Olga[guru]
It is necessary to ventilate. You can bring a box of salt. It absorbs moisture FROM the fungus. Whiteness or sulfur checker.

Answer from A Pavlov[guru]
someone like it, but I only have 2 vents, and one is almost invisible from the south, and from the north 20 * 50 is enough. such a draft that by September it is necessary to close

Answer from Hope R[guru]
I have 4 vents in my house - on each side - they are open all summer and there is ventilation .... I advise you to whitewash everything there - whiten everything - dry lime ... When there is no one in the house, open the hatch and the entrance doors and put a fan that the air was circulating.... like this....

Answer from Necronomygon mystic[guru]
arson

Answer from Yergey Mitchenko[active]
Chemicals will help from smell and rot, and a ventilated heater (colloquially referred to as "Dufka") will help to dry, and the more powerful the better ... It is better to use a gas heater, they dry the air a lot ... But you need to install the heater with open air, otherwise there is no sense ...!

Answer from I will become your angel[guru]
well, there should be vents that open and thereby allow the basement / basement to dry and ventilate and close in the cold so that the blanks do not freeze and the floors in the house are not icy.

Drying basements is a set of one-time or preventive measures aimed at normalizing the humidity of structures and air. A specific method is selected based on the volume and functional purpose: with an area within 2 m2, it is enough to improve air exchange with a candle; if necessary, dry large storage facilities, portable stoves and air dryers are used. These works are combined with antifungal surface treatment.

When is drying required?

The need for normalization of humidity arises:

1. With a one-time flooding of the cellar in spring time or when the GWL rises due to excessive precipitation. After the decline of water without taking measures inside the underground, dampness persists for a long time, and the system cannot cope with sufficient under normal conditions.

2. If necessary, accelerate the removal of building moisture. Basements of a private house, pits under garages and utility rooms are laid and insulated in the summer or early autumn, but there are exceptions. It is not recommended to delay finishing; drying walls and floors helps to avoid technology violations.

3. In case of violation of the channels or insulating layers of the cellar. Clogging of holes, lack of draft in hot or rainy times, infiltration of ground moisture or other deviations in temperature and humidity conditions lead to excessive dampness and condensation, which is unacceptable.

4. When carrying out annual preventive measures. Most used disinfectant solutions dries up naturally, but if it is necessary to accelerate the production of a dry cellar before loading the crop or unfavorable weather conditions the intensity of air exchange is increased.

Overview of Popular Methods

To rid the cellar of a private house or a pit under a garage of dampness, one of the following methods is used:

Absorption of excess moisture by absorbent materials.
Increased air exchange with a lit candle or dry alcohol.
Drying with a brazier or portable oven.
The use of electric dehumidifiers: heat guns or specialized units operating on the principle of air cooling.
Installation of forced fans.

Drying is started after eliminating the causes of the appearance excess moisture or for the purpose of prevention, to simplify work and remove dampness in hard-to-reach areas, all removable items and the products themselves are taken out. If there is free time, they first try to dry the basement in a natural way, namely, with enhanced ventilation for 3-5 days. If there are no results, one of the above forced methods is selected.

The preparatory stage is mandatory in any case: the surfaces are inspected for fungus and disinfected with compounds deep penetration, loose Decoration Materials, updated upper layer ground floor (if any), walls and shelving systems are treated with antifungal solutions or re-whitened. In basements, after flooding, which is of a systematic nature, the protection of the floor and walls is enhanced, drainage pipes are laid along the perimeter of such buildings. The draft in the air exchange system is checked last (by bringing a match to the holes), if necessary, additional supply and exhaust pipes are installed or the existing channels are cleaned.

1. Features of drying with hygroscopic materials.

With a slight but constant manifestation of dampness in the cellar and the impossibility of introducing additional ventilation pipes, absorbent substances are used inside to normalize the operating mode. Dry damp basement allow scattered on the floor and periodically changed sawdust, lowered boxes with charcoal, fluffy lime, calcium chloride laid out in the corners and pieces of cardboard. The advantages of the method include simplicity and the possibility of updating sorbents (some types of materials will come out quickly to dry under the sun and lower again), the disadvantages are the impracticality, if necessary, processing large areas. Cardboard and charcoal used without restrictions, lumps of lime or calcium chloride are not placed near the products.

2. Strengthening traction with a candle or dry fuel.

by the most easy way changes in thermostatic equilibrium is the bringing of lighted paper to the outlet of the hood. In rooms with standard two pipes, forced drying is organized by placing candles under them in a container protected from fire. In addition to the supply opening, the volume of incoming air is increased by opening the entrance hatch or door. A burning candle is placed on the floor, and the exhaust pipe itself is lengthened with a temporary nozzle.

This method is proven and safe, it allows you to dry the cellar relatively quickly (combustion is maintained until results are achieved, usually 2-3 days) of any volume: from pits in garages to individual storages. Burners or tablets of dry alcohol can be used (10-15 pcs are used for the basement of a standard volume, in addition to high-quality drying, its vapors kill fungal spores). Limitations to be considered include the need to support combustion and the risk of increasing condensate inside when humid, hot air is sucked in in summer, followed by cooling on the walls, control of the process is mandatory.

3. Pros and cons of using heat guns and electric dehumidifiers.

This method is valued for its safety: in the center of the cellar or in any right place a heater or heat generator is placed, allowing you to quickly remove excess moisture with designs. In rooms with concrete screed they are installed directly on the floor, with dirt floors- on a specially prepared base. The power of the device is selected on the basis of volumes and humidity: an oil, infrared or converter heater is enough for drying; heat guns for 3-5 kW. In particular difficult cases forced fans are introduced into the circuit.

A separate group includes dehumidifiers operating on the principle of freon-based cooling. Driving a humid environment through themselves, they discharge condensate into special receiving containers and containers; to start the devices, it is enough to connect to the network and periodically pour out water. Such dehumidifiers for the basement are recommended to buy when servicing underground with a large area, including agricultural vegetable stores and industrial facilities. In addition to collecting condensate, they filter the circulating air and control its temperature; the most advanced models function both for cooling and heating. Their scope is not limited to the cellar, if necessary, they are transferred to any premises.

Heat guns work quickly and provide high-quality and deep drying of structures. They require installation on a stable and dry base, but it is not difficult to organize such conditions. The disadvantages include the need for electricity, in addition to significant consumption, this option is not suitable for remote storage facilities that are not connected to the network.

4. Heating with a brazier.

The bottom line is the location on the floor of a brazier, a potbelly stove, a kerosene burner or an ordinary tin bucket with sawdust or charcoal burning inside. The resulting heat enhances the circulation processes and expels moisture from the surfaces, the achieved effect lasts for a long time. Before starting, the room is ventilated naturally for 3-4 days, the brazier and its analogues are placed for a few more hours, in especially difficult cases, the fire is maintained for 1-2 days. This method allows you to dry and fumigate the structures with smoke, thereby increasing the protection against mold.

A brazier or stove requires caution when lowering down, they weigh a lot, ropes are required. Dry sawdust is used for kindling, for support long burning- coke or charcoal, but in general there are no restrictions on loading conventional firewood. You should be prepared for the formation of a large amount of smoke, this method is better suited for individual storage facilities, and not underground private houses. Self-ignition of a brazier or potbelly stove is prohibited, an insurer remains at the top.

5. Forced fans.

When carrying out annual prevention, it is easiest to dry the cellar by increasing the volume of circulating air. There are no restrictions, the desired effect is provided by both portable fans installed on the basement floor and compact deflectors built into exhaust pipes, the latter can be temporary or permanent. The advantages include simplicity, the disadvantages - dependence on electricity. Efficiency depends on the elimination of the causes of moisture penetration, in case of violation of the waterproofing layer or constant underfloor heating, the underground needs more serious protective measures, air exchange optimization is not enough.

There are many reasons for the appearance of water, but the result is one - water in the cellar. There are many different ways drying cellars, but many of them are time-consuming and costly. You can dry and ventilate the cellar in summer and autumn. It is desirable when the temperature inside and outside the cellar is approximately the same, somewhere closer to autumn. Before drying, we free the cellar from racks, shelves, trays and boxes (we dry them on the street). Then we ventilate for 2 - 3 days. Now you can start drying.

Cellar drying methods

1. A bucket of glowing coals. In an old bucket, along the walls and bottom, we make holes with an ax and make a fire (charcoal and coal can be used). When the fire flares up well, using a rope or cable, we lower the bucket to the bottom of the cellar. We close the cellar lid, every 25 - 30 minutes it must be opened for oxygen access. As the fire burns out, pull out the bucket and close the lid. You can’t go down to the cellar right away, in order to avoid poisoning carbon monoxide. We do this until completely dry. This method is used in the presence of ventilation, if there is no ventilation, then all this must be done with the lid open. Smoke also disinfects the room well from mold and various bacteria and pests.

2. Using a candle (60 volt incandescent lamp, alcohol burner). It is necessary to increase the ventilation pipe almost to the floor (distance 15 - 20 cm.). To create the initial thrust, we set fire to the paper in the pipe. Then we put a lit candle under the pipe, in a tin can. For three days, we change the candles, and moist, cold air is drawn out.

3. Dry sawdust. We pour dry sawdust on the bottom of the cellar, when it gets wet, we change it to dry ones.

4. Cardboard boxes. On the bottom of the cellar we lay out dry carton boxes, in process of moistening we make replacement.

5. Slaked lime. falling asleep slaked lime along the walls and on the shelves, you can just put a box of lime in the corner of the cellar.

6. White moss. We place containers with white moss powder in the cellar. Salt. We calcine the salt in a metal container, and lower it into the cellar. Periodically, salt must be calcined or dried.

6. Calcium chloride. We lay it out in the cellar, collect it the next day, ignite it, and can be used again.

7. Ceramic bricks. Heat up 2 - 3 ceramic bricks, and lowered into the cellar. Cooling down, the bricks pull moisture from the cellar. When they cool down, take them out and heat them up again. After the tenth time, the bricks need to be changed, they stop absorbing moisture. We do this until the cellar dries out.

8. Sawdust pellets (cat litter). Open bag with cat litter leave it in the cellar. The granules will pull moisture well.

9. Silica gel (for cat litter). Silica gel can be hung or laid out in canvas bags in the cellar.

10. Wormwood. We hang or lay out wormwood in the cellar.