Do I need to cut roses for the winter. Shelter of standard roses for the winter

How to cover clematis for the winter in the suburbs

Clematis are of particular interest to many gardeners. This is justified - the flowering is very beautiful and, with proper care, so plentiful that you can refuse other flowers for decorating a garden or gazebo, walls. If desired, you can create a wonderful composition for every taste by combining together different shades.
In addition, clematis (two other names are also common - vine and clematis) can be very different. Among the three hundred species there are those that are radically different from each other. It can be herbaceous perennials or woody plants. Accordingly, the differences in the root system are significant. It is either fibrous or rod (in this case, transplantation is more complicated). The woody clematis has faceted shoots, while the grassy clematis has rounded shoots.
Clematis is not a difficult plant to grow. There are even wild species that are not afraid of 12-degree frosts - they not only feel good in such conditions, but also continue to bloom. However, with the derived ornamental varieties the case is different. Preparing clematis for winter - important event which should be taken with the utmost care. The health of the plant as a whole, as well as the time and splendor of flowering, depends on this. At the same time, varieties can be divided into early-, medium- and late-flowering. The variety must be selected based on the climatic conditions of the region in which it is planned to grow this flower. For the Moscow region, the following are most often used: Niobe, Rouge Cardinal, Nelly Moser, Anastasia Anisimova, Elegy and others.

Preparing clematis for winter

It is best to prune clematis in the middle or late autumn, before the onset of frost. Most often, this event is suitable for the end of October - the beginning of November. It is better if the weather that day is dry and calm.
The procedure will not be difficult if the plant is young. That is, in the first year of life, you need to perform a short pruning, leaving a shoot 20-30 centimeters high. In clematis blooming on last year's shoots, only the tops should be cut off, leaving long (1.5-2 meters) shoots. Clematis that bloom first on old and then on new shoots (that is, twice a year) must be cut shorter, leaving shoots no more than 1.2-1.5 meters. In relation to plants that bloom exclusively on young spring shoots, short pruning should be done in autumn, leaving 2-3 buds from ground level.
If you do not know exactly which variety clematis belongs to, you can resort to combined (also called universal) pruning. That is, leave one shoot long, about one and a half meters, cut the second to 2-3 buds, the next one is long again, then short, and so on throughout the bush.

However, it should be remembered that, regardless of the chosen method of pruning, it is imperative to remove dry and broken shoots, as well as get rid of healthy, but superfluous ones, in order to increase the ventilation of the bush.
Preparing clematis for winter includes one more stage, when it comes to a branched variety - removing the plant from the support. If you approach this procedure wisely, you can do it in 20 minutes. The main thing is not to braid the shoots between the bars of the lattice in the spring, otherwise in the fall you will have to break the branches that have grown over the summer.

In the case of old clematis, pruning should be done at a height of one and a half meters from the ground. Remove all the wires that were used in the spring to tie the branches to the trellis. Cut off with scissors all the leaves that interfere with the separation of the plant from the support. When the procedure is completed, it remains only to thin out the bush and proceed to the shelter.

How to cover clematis for the winter in middle lane and in the Urals

First of all, you need to treat the ground near the flower with an antimicrobial agent and sprinkle wood ash. Clematis belongs to frost-resistant plants, so you need to be more careful with warming - do not be zealous beyond measure. However, this event is aimed not only at protecting the plant from cold and sudden changes in temperature, but also from dampness, which causes rotting of the root system and death of the bush.

First of all, so that during the thaw the roots of clematis do not get wet, you need to pour one or two buckets of humus under the bushes. If this is not possible, then just any land will do. The resulting mound will not allow water to flood the roots.
Asking the question - how to cover clematis for the winter in the Urals - you need to know that this event is not much different from the one in the Moscow region. And there, and there you can use different ways. The only difference is in the thickness of the material layers. Of course, in the Urals, the shelter should be thicker due to the climatic features of the region than in the middle lane.
It is not worth laying shoots on bare ground - for this purpose, you need to equip a kind of “pillow” from some suitable material. They can be needles, cut branches (including clematis itself), wooden planks. The needles protect well from rodents, but at the same time they can start the process of soil acidification, which is harmful to the plant. To prevent this from happening in early spring it needs to be removed.
Any non-woven material can be used for covering. Lutrasil has proven itself very well in central Russia and in the Urals. You can wrap shoots around them, and then lay them on a “pillow” of needles or wooden shields. Then fall asleep with dry woody leaves and cover with spruce branches. Place pieces of slate on top. If it is not available, you can use the film. In this case, it must be covered with something dark so that the sun's rays do not pass, creating temperature fluctuations. And most importantly - do not forget to leave ventilation on both sides to avoid clematis aging.
If possible, special boxes should be used to shelter the clematis. They are very good because you can install them at any time convenient for the gardener. Then open the lid for free access of air and leave it until the onset of frost.

If you are thinking about how to cover young clematis for the winter correctly, then it is still easier here than in the case of adult bushes. However, the procedure also requires care. First, the soil and the plant itself must be treated with a foundation and sprinkled with humus, compost, sand or weathered peat. Then cover with chopped spruce branches and a film that protects from moisture. You can go the other way - after the clematis is sprinkled, install a wooden box and throw a roofing material or film on it. Or cover young cut bushes upside down flower pots, and lay a layer of dry spruce on top.

Regardless of the age of the plant, one important feature should be remembered - it is impossible to cover clematis with sawdust for the winter! This material absolutely not suitable in this case, because this flower is afraid of dampness more than frost. Shelter with sawdust, with a high degree of probability, can lead to dampening, because they first get wet and freeze, and then begin to gradually thaw, giving off moisture. Because of this, it becomes very problematic to remove the shelter at the right time.

Now, it is important not to forget that you also need to correctly remove the shelter. When warming, slate or film should be removed. And only when the return of night frosts is impossible, completely remove the spruce branches. It is necessary to release the plant gradually so that it has the opportunity to harden. After that, the branches must be carefully straightened and pinned to the trellis.

If you did everything right, clematis will delight you with beautiful lush flowers that are hard to take your eyes off of!

Clematis, wisteria and climbing rose- stunning flowering plants, often used in ornamental gardening. Each of them is unique in its own way and can decorate an arch, a gazebo, decorative grille or just a not very attractive wall with a solid carpet of large and small (plain or terry) colors. But it is clematis that is able to enrich this carpet with a delicate range of white, yellow, pink, raspberry, cherry red, bluish and purple hues, which undoubtedly puts it in the first position in the choice of plants for vertical gardening.

Despite the outwardly deceptive "aristocratic" appearance, graceful clematis is not a whimsical plant and easy care can please the eye with flowering for about 20 years. However, flower growers sometimes have to deal with the problem of freezing or non-flowering, which in reality, if you correctly study the characteristics of this plant, cannot be considered a serious problem. It should not be forgotten that wild-growing clematis is very rarely characterized by non-flowering, and some of its species (Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica and Clematis napaulensis) are able to withstand temperatures of minus 12 ° C and bloom (!) Already in December, and therefore this plant is considered to be fairly cold hardy. Such facts once again confirm that the death of clematis during wintering or the lack of flowering in it is often associated with a violation of agricultural conditions by flower growers (selection of a place and variety, planting rules, pruning, preparation and shelter for the winter).

The choice of the type and variety of clematis is one of the requirements for its successful wintering in certain climatic conditions. Depending on the time of flowering, clematis are early, medium and late flowering, and according to the nature of flowering, they bloom on the shoots of the current year, on last year's shoots, on last year's shoots and growth of the current year.

For cultivation in harsh climates, early and mid-early varieties of clematis with flowering on the growth of the current year (André Leroy, Hegley Hybrid, Cardinal Rouge, Biryuzinka and others from the Integrifolia, Jacqueman and Vititsella groups) are best suited. The princes (Alpine, Siberian and Okhotsk) are also highly resistant to such conditions - species of small-flowered clematis blooming on last year's shoots, which can easily endure wintering even without shelter.

For temperate climate suitable clematis, blooming twice: the first time in the spring on the shoots of last year, and the second time - at the end of summer on the shoots of the current year. These are the varieties Ballerina, Pennel, Fair Rosamund, President, Jeanne d "Arc and others from the Patens, Florida, Lanuginosa (partial) groups. These types of clematis are the most popular among gardeners, since, subject to freezing in the harsh winter of last year's shoots, it remains possible to get flowering on the growth of the current year.

Clematis of the Jackmani, Vititsella, Lanuginoza groups, late-flowering on the current year's growth, as well as non-hardy varieties that bloom only on last year's shoots, are recommended to be grown in a mild southern climate. These include Madame Baron Villard, Blue Flame, terry varieties Jeanne d "Arc, Daniel Deronda, Lord Neville, etc. Such plants require a "gentle" wintering for long flowering and preservation of last year's shoots until next year.

Partially prevent freezing of clematis (regardless of varietal features) is possible with the help of agricultural practices. When planting, it is recommended to deepen the plants into the soil in such a way that the tillering node in an adult clematis is located 10-12 cm below the edges of the pit, and in a young one - 8-10 cm. During the growing season, it is recommended to limit the application of nitrogen fertilizers under the bushes from August, and in September, add potash and phosphorus (for example, "Kemira autumn").

In autumn, in preparation for winter, many types of clematis are pruned. This procedure on varieties that bloom on the shoots of the previous year is carried out more for the purpose of thinning. For this type of clematis, it is important to maintain the growth of the current year in winter period and, if the variety is not winter-hardy, provide it with reliable shelter from severe frosts. Clematis that bloom on last year's shoots and on the growth of the current year are cut off twice after flowering, cutting off the tops of faded shoots by about a third. All left shoots are carefully removed from the support and covered for the winter. Clematis species that bloom only on the growth of the current year are cut very short: the shoots are cut off completely, leaving only 1-2 pairs of buds above the soil level (20-30 cm).

All clematis and soil near the warping bushes in front of autumn shelter it is recommended to spray with foundationazole (20 g per 10 l of water) for the prevention of fungal diseases, powder with wood ash and spud to a height of 10 - 15 cm, pouring weathered peat, humus or compost (2 - 3 buckets) into the center of the bush. When a constant air temperature of minus 5 - 7 ° C is established, clematis cover in dry weather. Shelter is best done air-dry to prevent wetting and decay of the root system. In the southern regions and in regions with frequent winter thaws, clematis is not recommended to be strongly covered, leaving access for periodic ventilation.

As a heater, you can use dry leaves, spruce branches, brushwood, even crushed polystyrene foam (from packaging boxes). Please note that all of these materials (except foam plastic) tend to cake under a thick layer of snow, as a result of which the amount of air space decreases and the likelihood of freezing increases. To prevent this, during the shelter of clematis, it is recommended to build original rigid frames from wooden boxes, shields, or simply from the remains of a cut vine rolled into a large ball. And in comfortable conditions In air-dry shelters, mice often like to hibernate and spoil plants, so poisoned baits are left under the bushes to protect them from them.

Shortly cut hilled clematis are sprinkled with a layer of leaves (covered with spruce branches), covered with a wooden box on top, on which waterproof material is laid (roofing material, roofing felt, polyethylene film) and sprinkle it on top with earth or peat with a layer of 20 - 25 cm. If you need to keep the clematis shoots left after pruning under cover, they are carefully removed from the support and rolled into a ring. Leaves (brushwood, polystyrene) are laid on the ground with a layer of 5-7 cm, folded shoots are placed on it, covered with the same material and covered with a wooden box (vine trimmings). If there are several bushes, they organize a common shelter using wooden shields, under which bricks are placed. From above, the box (shield) is covered with roofing material or a thick film and the edges are pressed with stones so that the structure is not blown away by the wind. If the winter is expected to be snowless and frosty, the shelter can still be sprinkled with a layer of earth.

In the spring, it is recommended to remove the shelter from clematis gradually so that the shoots do not suffer from recurrent frosts, thick layer snow is removed in several steps. With the establishment of warm weather, holes are made in the shelters for ventilation, and when the danger of strong return frosts has passed and the snow has completely melted, the film (roofing material) is removed completely to prevent the shoots from drying out. Shields, leaves and a hillock from the roots are not removed immediately, gradually accustoming the plants to coolness and the spring sun.

If, after an unsuccessful wintering, it turns out that clematis has died, you should not immediately uproot it. These plants, even after 2-3 years, can still form young shoots from the roots and recover. Naturally, before the shoots grow, such bushes should also be covered for the winter.

For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.

Tasks of the grower

A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing, based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.

Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:

foliage removal;
hilling bushes;
shelter them from the cold.

Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose

Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:

increases resistance to frost;
provides access sunlight to stems;
ventilates the crown;
encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.

Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.

Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.

Preparatory procedures before pruning

Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before winter training plants:

collect fallen leaves from the ground;
carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
try not to hurt the stem itself;
stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.

Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.

The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:

Hilling bushes

Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.

Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.

Cutting technology

The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.

After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:

Trimming process

3 year olds or older;
with a large number side branches;
covered with dry bark.

Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.

Different types of roses have their own pruning features:

Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.

How to insulate roses for the winter

If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.

Preparing for winter

The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.

From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.

Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.

Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.

Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.

So, we continue measures to protect roses from the upcoming frosts. Today we are talking about the most important thing, perhaps, about how to properly cover roses. Before sheltering the ground around rose bushes it is necessary to dig a shovel onto a bayonet, doing it very carefully so as not to damage the roots. Long shoots and scrubs are bent to the ground, laid on a layer of spruce branches and pinned to the surface of the earth. To avoid mechanical damage in this case, especially in powerful specimens, bushes can be dug up on one side.

Hilling roses for the winter

One of the components winter shelter roses, is their hilling, which allows you to most effectively protect against frost root system. To the base of the bush you need to pour a mound of dry earth, its height should be at least 30 cm, but do not rake the earth from the flower beds - this can expose the roots at a distance, it is better to add compost, humus or any loose soil prepared in advance. Between rows, use old straw manure, leaf humus, or shredded bark for cover.

Floribunda and hybrid tea roses, pre-cut, as a result of such hilling, are almost completely covered with the substrate. After you have bent down and pinned to the ground climbing and shrub species, spud both the base of the bushes and the shoots themselves. This will keep large quantity kidneys and then next year- in the spring, it will be possible to cut the roses in any way. Even in the absence of snow, the air temperature under the earth shelter remains higher for some time than outside.

Hilling roses is best done in 2 doses. In the first half of October, the ground is only partially poured to the base of the bush to protect it from accidental frosts, and before the onset of real cold weather, the bushes are completely spudded.

Do not use sawdust, sand or pure peat for these purposes - their moisture content can lead to the formation of an ice crust around the bushes during sudden temperature fluctuations. And then, under its pressure, the bark on the stems can crack, which will lead to unpleasant consequences.

In late October - early November, roses should be completely covered. It is best to do this in clear, dry weather.

Shelter of roses with spruce branches

This is perhaps the easiest way to winter shelter, although not the most reliable - it is only suitable for mild winters. Instead of spruce branches, you can also use oak leaves or plant residues that do not overwinter, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm.

Air dry shelter roses

This method consists in installing frames over rose bushes with their subsequent warming with the help of a hydrothermal insulation material (cardboard, glassine, paper), which is laid on top and side of the frame, and on top of that they are also covered with polyethylene. The end sides of such a shelter should be closed when the thermometer drops below 10 ° C. This method is very good in cold, snowy winters, as the bushes are protected from penetration with it. excess moisture, and because of the air gap, the plant is not threatened with hypothermia. This method has one drawback - it is not suitable for summer residents who do not have the opportunity to regularly visit their site, since shelters will need to be ventilated in early spring.

Shelter of standard roses for the winter

It should be noted right away that you need to think about sheltering the boles of roses even when they are planted. Firstly, you must immediately decide where the tree will bend down ( not on the path and not on the neighboring bush), but in order not to break the trunk, the bend at the base of the plant should be located on the side opposite to the slope.

Planting a standard rose, taking into account further bending down to the ground

Before shelter, it is made taking into account the trunk belonging to one or another garden group. After that, the rose must be dug up from the right side, bent to the ground and spud the root system in the above ways. A spruce branch or a layer of large river sand, on top there is still a layer of spruce branches, which is fixed with a film or any covering nonwoven fabric. For greater reliability, the crown can first be pinned to the ground, and a little earth should be poured over the shelter. In no case should the plant be laid below the soil level, otherwise in the spring, during heavy snowmelt, the shoots of roses can get wet in the lowlands flooded with water and rot.

Tilt the trunk towards the "knob" and pin the trunk to the ground

Before the shelter of roses in botanical garden we spud the bushes with earth to a height of 20-30 cm. Only the earth must not be raked from under the bush, it must be prepared in advance. autumn pruning-only for the convenience of hiding.

All roses can be divided into two groups: the first - climbing and shrubby - either do not cut at all, or only by 1/3; the second group: hybrid tea, floribunda, miniature, polyanthus - they can be cut to half the length.

Be sure to remove the entire leaf and unripened shoots. We do not bend the stems, we only lay climbing roses.

We cover with spruce. If it is not there, you can use lutrasil, the thickest. Ideally, if there is both spruce branches and lutrasil - the spruce branches thicken, make the shelter heavier. It is desirable that the roses be covered by the first of November.

By this time, as a rule, both the first and second hardening frosts have already passed. Yes, it can be raining, and the temperature is above zero, but this can happen in January too, not everyone has the opportunity to open and air their roses?

L. Bumbeeva, researcher at GBS RAS, curator of the rose collection.

My hybrid teas sleep standing up...

Preparing roses for winter starts with the last feeding And in August. I use potassium sulfate. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are usually recommended, but I have

loams in which phosphorus accumulates. Naturally, I continue to monitor the health of the bushes. If diseased leaves appear, remove them. It depends on the autumn, of course, but, as a rule, roses bloom until mid-October. Then I remove the buds

and what blooms, let it bloom. Before shelter, I treat the bushes with a solution of a fungicidal preparation. For some time now, I have not cut roses, but pulled the stems with synthetic twine and wrapped with lutrasil.

Naturally, inside the bush I already have a mixture of peat and sawdust in equal proportions with the addition of a cup of ash. Ash perfectly protects against fungal diseases. I wrap the stems with lutrasil to a height of fifty centimeters, the tops remain sticking out.

By pruning roses, we remove the “strategic reserve” of nutrients accumulated in the shoots, which, with the onset of cold weather, passes into the roots, and in the spring allows the rose to start growing.

I bend down only climbing roses and scrubs. Tea-hybrid up to one and a half meters high hibernate "standing".

Natalia Anzigitova, rose collector.

Oddly enough, I recommend electrodes for sheltering roses for the winter.

Roses are supposed to be covered in November, usually they do it on the November holidays, but I don’t have the opportunity at this time, so I’m shifting the dates. I start to cover my roses from the beginning of October, until I cover everything, it’s already November.

I don’t spud bushes, it’s damp for me, roses rot under the spud. And I don’t cut it off: firstly, I try to keep as many shoots as possible, and secondly, if I cut it off, it will be more difficult to bend down. I pin large bushes to the ground with bush holders (or any large hook), and I fix small ones with welding electrodes, they look like large ones. sparklers and are easily bent with a “hairpin”. About five years ago I bought several pieces specifically for roses, very convenient. I cover only with lutrasil, the thickest - “six”, in two layers. Lapnik, I think, does not insulate, it serves only to retain snow. If frost hits the bare ground, as is often the case with us, lutrasil will soften them at least a little.

I.Makhrova, rose collector.

Above modern varieties roses do not need to fence towers ...

I cover my roses somewhere on the seventh or eleventh of November, when it already freezes to -5-7c, but I install arcs and other structures podlutrasil earlier.

If the autumn is slushy, then I throw a “roof” from the film on these arcs, and then I take it off and put lutrasil instead of the film. Lutrasil is enough. If there is ten centimeters of snow on lutrasil, then under cover it is not lower than -4’C.

I cut roses only to the height of the structure. If it is possible to bend the stems - I bend without pruning. It is impossible to cut short roses in autumn, especially climbing and scrubs.

The exception is, perhaps, only running bushes, especially park roses. Here they can arrange a “spring” short pruning in the fall, spud up well and not unpunch, at least until the beginning of summer.

In old bushes, dormant buds are in deep sleep, if the bush is unraveled early, they will not have time to wake up and will simply dry out from the sun and wind. Hilling is best done with structural soil, for example, loam with humus. You can sand, but not peat!

Especially if in the spring the water stands on the site for a long time. In general, I believe that peat and a rose garden are “antipodes-antagonists”.

I remove the leaves only if they are sick (if they themselves have not fallen from the disease). Yes, they write that you need to cut the foliage, but imagine a rose garden of seven hundred roses! How many gardeners do you think it takes to cut all the leaves?

I remember we once removed leaves from the Rambler. The whole family cut their hair, my boys said it was Slave work. The main thing is not in the dilemma "to cut or not to cut" - you need to choose resistant varieties.

G. Pankratova, owner of the grand rose garden

Air-dry shelter for roses for the winter is the best!

I have been dealing with roses for over thirty-five years and have come to the conclusion that there is nothing better than air dry shelter. After all, roses do not freeze out here, they rot.

I don’t cut roses before sheltering: firstly, I think that it’s not advisable to injure them twice (both in spring and autumn), and secondly, everything nutrients from the tops during autumn and winter they pass into the roots.

I begin to bend down the bushes in September, I do it gradually: I install arcs over slightly bent roses, after two or three days I stick them a little deeper and so on until I bend down properly. I arrange a “hut” above the roses, its optimal height is 60 cm.

If it is higher, the roses will freeze. In dry weather, I make a temporary roof from a film, but leave the ends open so that the wind dries the soil. When frosts begin -5-7 C, I close the ends.

I cover the roses with roofing material, it is possible with a film, but then there must be some moisture-absorbing material between it and the roses. If you cover only with a film, condensation will collect on it, and the roses will have an infectious burn.

Climbing roses must be laid on slate or roofing felt, they should not lie on the ground. Foliage would be nice to remove, but I do this only when possible, if not, I leave it. Sometimes, you know, I open roses in the spring, and the foliage is green, alive, healthy.

A. Teorina, master of growing roses.

Not according to the calendar, but according to the weather

When at least -3 C is established during the day, then it's time to cover.

I cut off the entire unripened part, however, here we must remember that some varieties of roses have a brown color of the shoots. If there are doubts about the maturity of the shoot, you can make a trial cut: if there is wood, then the shoot has matured.

I fall asleep roses with dry earth, compact (this is very important!) I cover with two layers of lutrasil with the smooth side up (this side does not let moisture through).

Then, even if it rains, it will only get wet top part earthen mound, and the base of the bush will remain dry. I don’t bend the shoots, I cut the roses, of course, except for climbing ones, leaving about 50 cm from ground level.

I remove the leaf.

I know, they say, it is too laborious, but by the time of shelter, the leaves from the bushes already fall off by themselves. With climbing ones, yes, it is difficult to cut off all the foliage.

If the climbing roses did not get sick, then the foliage can be left, but if there are spots or signs of fungal diseases, I think that it is necessary to remove it, no matter how laborious it may be!

K. Golenya, hereditary rose grower.

Shelter of roses - 2 main ways

Many flower growers have seen from their own experience that the early shelter of roses is dangerous due to the decay of plants, and therefore do not rush: a slight decrease in temperature (-2 ... - degrees) will even benefit the plants - for hardening.

There are two main ways to cover roses.

Hilling up When the air temperature starts to drop below +3 degrees, slightly hill the roses with peat (from 10 to 30 cm - depending on the height of the bush) so that cracks do not appear on the bark during autumn temperature changes. With the onset of persistent cold weather, cut off the leaves and non-lignified parts of the shoots, then cover them completely - cover them with spruce branches, and pour insulating material on top with a layer of 25-30 cm (peat, dry leaves, humus).

After pruning, install shields around the bushes (from boards, slate, etc.). Inside the space limited by the shields, cover the roses with spruce branches, put ceiling shields on top, leaving openings for ventilation until frost is stable.

When the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm, cover the shields from the sides and top with dry leaves or cover with spruce branches with a layer 20 cm thick, and in winter also with snow. Shields can be replaced with roofing material (for low bushes). Pull the branches with twine along with spruce branches, set pegs near the bushes, and roll the roofing material around in the form of a pipe. Pour dry leaves into the pipe, and cover with a bucket on top.

In early spring, snow is removed from the shelter and openings are opened. And after thawing the soil, shields or roofing material are removed, the plants are unraveled.