Japanese quince: useful properties and contraindications. Quince diseases and their treatment Why did the leaves turn white on the Japanese quince

scientific name- Japanese chaenomeles, but the plant has long been known to everyone under the name of quince (also Japanese). Which country is considered the birthplace of this fruit tree, is clear from the name, but at present it is widespread both in neighboring China and in distant Europe.

A beautiful plant should be planted in gardens and cottages, if only because its flowering is an amazing sight, thousands of lights are red orange color all together suddenly flare up on thin branches. Later, most of them will become fruits, so in the fall, Japanese quince again pleases the owners with the abundance and beauty of fruits.

Japanese quince takes root well, but does not like transplants, so the owners suburban area it is worth immediately determining the place where it will grow. Care for it beautiful tree not much different from caring for the usual apple and pear trees. For the splendor of flowering, it is necessary to loosen the soil, weed it from emerging weeds and mulch.

A year after planting, you can start feeding, the plant favors organic and mineral fertilizers. For the winter, young shrubs are covered with spruce branches to protect them from frost.

Such simple methods care is very pleasing to beginner gardeners. The second attractive moment of choosing Japanese quince for planting in the country is its resistance to pests and diseases. This is noted by experts, residents of holiday villages speak about it with one voice.

Diseases - no!

Breeding professionals and amateurs exotic varieties trees are sure that diseases on quince appear only in rare cases. For example, when there is practically no care and attention from the owners of the summer cottage.

Another complex of unfavorable factors contributing to the appearance of diseases is natural vagaries. Among the main reasons are cool, rainy weather that persists long time. At the same time, it is noted in the air high humidity, which leads to the appearance of various spots and necrosis. This disease can affect the edges of the leaves (marginal), leaf tissue between the veins (median), appear as dots and spots over the entire surface (dotted).

Another factor contributing to the development of diseases can be various fungi. Thus, cases of the appearance of ramulariasis and cytosporosis were observed. At the same time, the leaves and flowers become brown, dry up, it is clear that the color of the tree bark is changing. Ramulariasis can be fought with any antifungal chemicals, copper sulfate. In addition, the affected branches, leaves and flowers must not be thrown away, but burned. The same methods of combating cytosporosis, including timely pruning and providing conditions for temperature and humidity conditions, preventive spraying with a solution of copper sulphate.

Who is guilty?

Adverse weather, poor care, the appearance of fungi in neighboring areas are not all the misfortunes that lie in wait for the Japanese quince. There is another group of insect pests, the most common of which are scale insects and spider mites.

In order to protect your favorite quince from pests, it is necessary to constantly carry out prevention and monitor the appearance uninvited guests. It is necessary to carry out the first spraying before the start of bud break, then re-treatment may not be necessary or will be postponed to a later period.

It is important to keep track of planting material. Cut off dry branches, the remains of dry bark. If affected areas are identified, they are cut out and burned, the tree is treated with insecticides.

The list of diseases and pests of the Japanese quince is so long. Therefore, if the owners decide to decorate their garden with an exotic guest from distant Japan, then you should try a little for her sake and then she will answer beautiful flowering and rich harvest!

The fruits of this beautiful deciduous tree have been known since antiquity, they were recommended for use in many diseases by Avicenna, they perfectly saturate the body with calcium, iron, copper, phosphorus and vitamins. It was the quince that Paris gave to Aphrodite, the winner in the dispute of three goddesses about beauty. Growing quince in our conditions is not as common as in the south of Europe, in Asia or the Caucasus, but many summer residents dare to take such a step, and caring for quince is not too difficult, but the result is impressive.

Quince can grow as a shrub or tree from 1.5 to 4 meters high. Young branches are hairy, as if they are covered with gray velvet, the bark on the trunk and old branches is thin, easily peeling, dark gray, sometimes with brown tint. Dark green large oval leaves on the underside are also covered with a grayish fluff. The trees begin to bloom in May, they are quite large, often solitary, they look very beautiful, they are pink of different intensity or even purple. The fruit, usually large, slightly apple or pear-like, round and irregular, turns yellow as it ripens, with some varieties developing a pink blush. The diameter of the fruits of wild trees does not exceed 4 cm, and the cultivated ones are about 15 cm, they, like young shoots and leaves, are slightly covered with velvet villi.

Fruit ripening occurs by the end of September, but it is difficult to eat them fresh right away, despite the pleasant aroma, delicious juice and a huge amount of useful substances- stiffness, viscosity and villi make this action physically difficult. They produce very delicious juices, compotes, jelly, jams, marmalades, jams. You can store them until spring at a temperature not higher than +3 degrees, and over time they become softer, acquire more sugars, and lose their viscosity. In addition to desserts, they are used as a seasoning for cooking meat.

Trees are durable, they live up to 60 years, actively bear fruit for 50 years, starting from 3-4 years of age. One tree can give from 25 to 100 kg of fruits per year, which can even bring commercial benefits from growing quince.

Highly beautiful tree quince, flowering makes it even more attractive, sometimes when growing people use it only as ornamental culture and not for fruit. It propagates quite easily in several ways - by seeds, layering and root shoots.

Soil preparation

Many gardeners simply do not know how to grow quince, but she is a relative of many of our fruit trees– apple, pear, plum, can grow in similar conditions. The tree is unpretentious, drought-resistant, can grow in almost any soil. But it feels best and gives large juicy fruits on heavy clay soils especially if you prepare the place in advance. Light soil with great content sand will make the tree bear fruit earlier, but the overall life expectancy and yield will be much less.
You can plant a seedling in spring and autumn, while the tree is at rest. Before autumn planting find an open warm place, in the spring they dig it up to a depth of 30 - 40 cm, while adding superphosphate and potassium salt. Then watered and left until autumn. At spring planting soil preparation is carried out in the fall.

Planting seedlings

The root system of this crop does not grow very deep, but its width is several times greater than the crown of the tree, so they dig a hole for planting up to 90 cm wide, at least 40 cm deep. The distance to the nearest tree or building should be at least 5 m. a layer of clay is laid at the bottom of the pit, a strong peg for a garter is driven in, then a third of the pit is filled fertile soil mixed with superphosphate and wood ash.
A seedling with straightened roots is placed on top and carefully covered with earth, lightly ramming it around the stem. After planting, the tree is watered abundantly, the ground around is mulched with peat or humus, in spring the mulch layer should be approximately 5 cm, and in autumn - 10 cm.

Video “Growing”

From the video you will learn how to grow this tree.

Care

Quince, the cultivation and care of which so scares many summer residents, is an unpretentious and very resistant plant, it is grown as clearstem tree, forming it by pruning from the first year. She responds well to care, you only need to carefully monitor her for the first years, until the tender seedling turns into a strong young tree, then courtship comes down to rare watering, top dressing, pruning and preventive treatments against diseases and pests. The result will be a wonderful harvest grown on your site.

A young tree is watered more often, and an adult is watered 4 to 5 times per season. The first time is watered before flowering, then watered Blooming tree, support with moisture the formation of ovaries, the growth of new shoots and fruits. The last watering occurs at the end of August or the beginning of September (in mature plants). Each time a lot of water is poured, under a young tree - up to 400 liters, and under an adult - up to 800 liters. After watering, the soil must be loosened to a depth of 5 - 8 cm.

The trunk circle needs to be freed from weeds, and it is not necessary to grow some plants there so as not to damage the quince roots, its root system is located close to the surface, capturing a large space, it is better not to take away nutrients from it. If you mulch the trunk circle, you will have to weed and loosen the ground less often.

pruning

The technique of pruning quince is akin to pruning an apple tree. In a young tree, starting from the first year, a crown is formed, then it remains only to support it. All summer can happen sanitary pruning- dry leaves, broken or improperly growing branches must be removed constantly, while the main pruning, shaping or rejuvenating, is done in autumn or spring, when the movement of juices has already stopped or has not yet begun.

In an annual tree, the lower tier of the main branches is formed, retreating 50–60 cm from the grafting site, leaving 3–4 branches at a distance of 10–15 cm from each other. The second tier will be single shoots at intervals of up to 35 cm.

All skeletal branches should grow at a 45 degree angle to the trunk.

In a two-year-old tree, the lower main branches are shortened, leaving 50 cm from the base, other shoots are cut in approximately the same way, and the main conductor is cut 25 cm above all other branches. With the onset of fruiting, the branches are simply shortened and thinned out, then rejuvenating pruning begins, when five-year-old shoots are removed, on which an ever smaller number of fruits are formed.

top dressing

If the hole was well filled during landing organic fertilizers, then the next portion of organics can be given after 2 years, but mineral fertilizers this culture needs to be fed three times per growing season. Usually, in the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are scattered around the trunk, which are gradually delivered to the roots with moisture. After flowering and in August, the trunk circle is watered with a solution of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

In the spring after the first watering and in the fall, in preparation for winter, the trunk circle is mulched with compost or peat, which also slowly but constantly send nutrients to the roots.

Preparing for winter

In autumn, water-charging irrigation is carried out, that is, up to 800 liters of water is poured under each tree to nourish the root system until spring. This will help them to endure frosts more easily. After harvesting, they carry out preventive treatment for scab (usually a urea solution is used), when the leaf fall ends, you can carry out sanitary pruning, and then start warming the trees before the onset of frost.

Many varieties of quince are considered frost-resistant, but young trees are best protected from severe frosts. Close to the surface of the earth, located roots can freeze even in mature trees, so the near-stem circle is usually mulched with humus or compost to a height of at least 15–20 cm, covering the base of the trunk. The trunk and bases of the lower branches are whitewashed with lime. Young trees are covered more carefully. They are wrapped with lutrasil or other similar material, then tied with spruce branches, and in winter they pile up a lot of snow. Some gardeners make a roofing material pipe around a small tree covered with earth and compost, cover it with dry leaves, and in winter they try to fill a high snowdrift. So her fragile plant survives the first, and sometimes the second winter.

The best “neighbors”

Under the quince, it is desirable not to plant anything at all. Not only will she hide these plants in her shade, but her roots will be deprived of nutrients, and may suffer from neighbors. She herself also does not like the shadow, or rather, she tolerates it normally, but the branches become thinner, and the fruits are smaller, so it is not recommended to plant trees nearby (within a radius of 5 meters).

Cultivated varieties are self-fertile, but the quality of the crop will improve if other varieties of quince or at least related apple and pear trees grow nearby.

Diseases and pests

It is believed that quince has strong immunity, a healthy plant is not afraid of diseases, therefore proper care able to save the tree from these troubles. But still, it can suffer from powdery mildew, scab, moniliosis and other diseases.

Powdery mildew is especially dangerous in damp, cool summers. It first affects young annual shoots, manifesting itself as a light bloom, then it becomes a dense brown film, the ovaries crumble, the leaves become deformed, the shoots dry out. The affected parts must be cut and destroyed, and the entire tree must be treated with fungicides, preferably several times.

Brownish leaves are possible, which appears as rounded brown spots on the leaves, and over time causes them to curl, dry out, and crumble prematurely. Fallen leaves must be burned, and the tree and the ground under it must be treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Moniliosis, or fruit rot, may appear in too wet spring, but it already appears on the fruit. Brown spots appear on them, which grow and make the fruit unusable.

Rust and rotting of the ovaries also first form spots, tubercles on the leaves, and then kill the leaves and ovaries. They are treated with Fundazol.

Pathogenic organisms settle on plant debris near the tree, they may not be active for a long time, but if the tree weakens for any reason, if the weather is on their side, then infection is quite possible. To minimize this possibility, you need to monitor the condition of the land under the crown, take preventive measures. So in the spring, while the buds have not yet blossomed, the whole plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid. The earth around is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. To protect the plant from pests (aphids, mining moths, sawflies, moths) and fungal spores that cause powdery mildew, before flowering, use the Fastak solution.

After flowering, the tree is recommended to be treated with Topaz so that leaf-eating pests, scab and fruit rot do not spoil the plant. In the summer, you can use "Strobe" or "Kemifos" from pests and fungal diseases, but they stop using chemicals a month and a half before harvesting. And after the litter of the harvest, the tree is again treated with Bordeaux liquid or a solution of copper sulphate.

Varieties

There are two varieties of quince - common and Japanese. Japanese quince is a shrub with bright flowers, they are pink and red-orange, they look very decorative, but the fruits are too hard, which may be why it is less popular than common quince. Our gardeners cultivate exactly the ordinary or oblong, as it is also called. Among the most popular varieties, there are several that differ in terms of ripening.

By the end of September, the "Early Oiler" ripens. The weight of large lemon-colored fruits ranges from 190 g to 150 g. They are round-conical, smooth, ribbed, very fragrant, fine-grained yellowish flesh has a sweet and sour taste, the longer they are stored, the less viscous it becomes.

"Juicy" with fruits weighing 250 g, characterized by winter hardiness and indifference to lack of moisture. Juicy fruits with yellowish flesh have a sour-sweet taste.

"Crimean aromatic" ripens by the second half of September, its smooth lemon-colored fruits are sour, with yellow flesh.

Until mid-October, Kubanskaya, Astrakhanskaya, Kaunchi 10, and Beretski ripen. Dense and sweet fruits of "Kaunchi 10" are pear-shaped and distinctly pubescent. And "Beretski" - partially self-fertile variety. Its delicious sweet fruits can be eaten fresh, but only if the Champion, Giant, Portuguese varieties that grew nearby were used for pollination.

Late varieties ripen by early or mid-November. "Portuguese" is a partially self-fertile variety with pear-shaped viscous fruits. Productive, indifferent to cold, wind and diseases, the Dagestan variety "Zubutlinskaya" gives huge (up to 800 g) felt fruits of golden color with juicy tasty pulp. “Buinakskaya large-fruited”, “Ktyun-zhum” - their light yellow fruits are famous for their pleasant sweet and sour taste, it’s a pity that not everywhere there is such a warm November for them to ripen.

Such varieties are suitable for the Moscow region: "Muscat", "Amber", "Success", "Firstborn". They are not striking in size, but ripen perfectly, allowing you to cook delicious desserts from very useful fruits. They differ slightly in taste, but after a month and a half after harvest, everything becomes much sweeter and loses viscosity.

Video “Care”

From the video you will learn how to care for a tree.

Japanese quince is not the most common crop on household plots Russian gardeners. So far, in most cases, it is planted in order to acquire something that the neighbors do not have. Meanwhile, it's beautiful and unpretentious plant, without a doubt, deserves more popularity. It can be used as both decorative and fruit crop. Growing and caring for quince will not take much of the gardener's time.

Japanese quince: is it still quince or not?

Infrequently, there is such confusion with the names of plants, as with quinoa, she is also chaenomeles. Before early XIX centuries, both common and Japanese quince were included in the genus Pyrus japonica (Japanese pear) of the Rosaceae family. But in 1822, the English systematizer biologist Lindley identified the Japanese quince as a separate genus Chaenomeles, or chaenomeles in Russian transcription.

Quince, on the other hand, began to belong to the genus Cydonia, by name ancient city Sidonia on the island of Crete, where this plant has been cultivated since time immemorial. It would seem that in this case it is logical to call it quince. But somehow it did not take root, but this name stuck tightly to the Japanese quince. Of course with scientific point vision, she is a chaenomeles, but somehow this word sounds “rough” to the Russian ear.

"Classic quince" - it would be more correct to call it, and not quince, henomeles

Japan in the name of the plant is no coincidence, because it was from there, however, as well as from China and Korea, this shrub came to Europe. Another reason is also possible - the ineradicable love of the Japanese for miniature forms, because apples of quince are incomparably fewer fruits cultural quince. In Russia and countries former USSR the name northern or Latvian lemon is also found, since it was in this Baltic country that even in Soviet time its mass cultivation was organized, however, quite by accident.

Description of culture

Quindonia is grown as a shrub or tree from 0.5 to 3 meters high and is used as a fruit or ornamental crop. The branches are arched, oblique, covered with often arranged dark green leaves with a glossy surface and carved edges. The shoots of most varieties have thorns up to 2 cm long, although there are varieties without thorns.

Of particular note is how impressive and original it looks flowering plant. The buds open before the leaves appear. The flowers last long enough, 2-4 weeks, blooming alternately. Depending on the variety, flowering time varies from early April to mid-May.

The flowers are quite large 2-4 cm in diameter, simple and double. Petals can be orange, red, crimson, pink, white. The flowers are arranged randomly on the branches and this brings a special flavor. Quidonia can become the dominant center of the composition with the participation of flowering shrubs (for example, forsythia) and primroses at the same time.

The corner of the garden where this plant is planted acquires during the flowering period holiday look. In terms of the number of hybrids created by breeders around the world, the Japanese quince is second only to the recognized queen of flowers - the rose. But not only the beauty of flowering sweet quince gardeners. Its fragrant fruits (medium-sized, usually yellow color, with a wax surface) also not immediately, but still they liked it.

Photo gallery: what quince looks like

The petals of quince flowers are painted in saturated, bright colours- this is exactly what is missing after a long winter The flowers tightly cling to the branch, settling randomly on it The quince bush will perfectly fit into the composition of the plants blooming at the same time that decorates the site The quince fruits are rather unusual in taste, but very useful

Video: flowering Japanese quince

A little about the geography of distribution of Japanese quince

According to the modern classification, there are 4 main types of chaenomeles, but for conditions middle lane In Russia (south of the border of Petrozavodsk - Yekaterinburg - Omsk - Novosibirsk - Irkutsk - Khabarovsk), it is preferable to choose varieties from two types: Japanese low quince (Mauleya) and Japanese high quince, which is also excellent or beautiful. Such varieties include, for example, the following: Crimson and Gold, Elly Mossel, Nicolini, Pink Lady, Sargenta.

Quince Japanese low is less thermophilic than its "relatives", but does not lose them in the least in showiness and decorative effect

There are varieties of stunning beauty related to the beautiful quince species (Yukigoten, Geisha Girl and others). They really look amazing during flowering, but not as winter hardy. Although with proper care and shelter for the winter, there is certainly a chance to grow them in the Moscow region. Again, pay attention to the epithets: “excellent”, “beautiful”, and there is also “magnificent”! It seems that when you see flowering bush the beauty described here, scientists forgot the dry “jargon” of systematization and switched to the language of poets.

Many very beautiful varieties quidonia, unfortunately, are not suitable for growing in most of Russia due to insufficient winter hardiness

Table: Japanese quince varieties suitable for cultivation in central Russia

plant variety	Brief description of the variety	petal color	plant application
Crimson and Gold	Bush up to 1 m tall, sprawling, branches prickly. The flowers are medium in size up to 3.5 cm in diameter. The fruits are oblong, greenish-yellow, often with a blush.	Dark red.	For rock gardens, borders, as a single plant (tapeworm).
Sargenta	Bush from 0.5 to 1 m tall, flowers up to 3 cm in diameter. The fruits are spherical	Orange, unopened buds are dark pink.	Ground cover plant, rabatki.
Elly Mossel	Low shrub (from 0.4 to 0.6 meters) with bright green foliage.	Bright red with a yellow center.	Element flower arrangements, alpine hills.
Nicoline	Low shrub with spreading crown. With a height of not more than 1.2 m, the crown diameter is 1.5 meters. Flowering in the last days of May, inflorescences are bright red, large.	Bright red.	For single or group plantings, in flower arrangements.
pink lady	Bush up to 1.2 m tall, fast growing. Grows to adulthood in 2 years. The crown is oval, lush, densely strewn with dark green foliage.	Pink with a yellow center.	For alpine slides, rosaries.

Photo gallery: popular varieties of quince

The bright scarlet flowers of the Crimson and Gold variety look very impressive.
Japanese quince Crimson and Gold not only blooms beautifully, but also bears abundant fruit The Sargenta hybrid has an unusual, peach or salmon color of the petals The fruits of the Sargenta variety are somewhat uneven The Elly Mossel variety blooms somewhat less abundantly than other hybrids, but its fruits are very large The Nicoline hybrid is very large double flowers From afar, the fruits of Nicoline quince may well be mistaken for apples. The Japanese quince Pink Lady is very gentle shade petals, causing inevitable associations with sakura
The fruits of Pink Lady look rather unusual.

Advantages and disadvantages of the plant

The main advantage of the plant is its incomparable appearance during flowering. Also, the undoubted advantages include:

• fragrant and healthy fruits;
• the possibility of a wide and varied use of the plant in landscape design;
• exceptional unpretentiousness of culture;
• high resistance to diseases and rare attacks from pests.

The disadvantages can rather be called the features of the plant:

• frequent sharp spines on shoots;
• tendency to thicken quickly;
• insufficient winter hardiness.

However, pricklyness turns into dignity when using quidonia in a hedge, thickening is easy to avoid by regularly devoting time to pruning the plant, and frozen bushes, like a Phoenix bird, are reborn to life again.

Features of planting and propagation of quinoa

For better survival of the plant, planting is best done with one-two-year-old seedlings or seedlings. This guarantees the preservation varietal qualities original plant. Optimal time- from April to May for central Russia and autumn for the southern regions.

Since quince is required cross pollination, it is advisable to plant 2-3 plants at once.

Determine in advance on the site a suitable place, well warmed by the sun, closed to drafts. Quidonia is not very picky about the soil, but prefers slightly acidic or neutral (pH in the range of 5-6.5). Such a substrate is typical for many garden plots. Be sure to clean the proposed planting site from weeds, especially from creeping couch grass, which also prefers slightly acidic soils.

Planting quince in the ground is a simple procedure

It must be borne in mind that if for some reason you want to transplant to another place mature plant, then this will be problematic. The Japanese quince has a well-developed root system with a long central root, and the procedure is very painful for it.

The landing itself in the ground and preparation for it looks like this:

1. A hole is dug 40x40x40 cm or, if planned to be done hedge or curb, trench of appropriate length. fertile layer land is set aside separately. If close ground water, then they go deeper into the soil by another 20 cm and drainage is poured onto the bottom: expanded clay, crushed stone, broken brick, coarse sand. The pit is prepared 2-3 weeks before the intended landing.
2. The extracted fertile land (upper 15–20 cm), a bucket of humus or dry manure, 0.5 kg of wood ash and 150 g of double superphosphate are mixed. Everything is thoroughly mixed.
3. The mixture is poured into the pit and compacted.
4. Damaged roots of seedlings are cut off.
5. In the center of the prepared hole, a recess is made in accordance with the size of the root system. Planting depth depends on the type of seedling. If it is seed or vegetatively propagated, the same level of immersion in the soil must be maintained. When a scion is planted, it is necessary to deepen the seedling by 15–20 cm so that it takes its own roots.
6. The pit is carefully covered with earth, which must be well tamped to eliminate voids at the roots. Followed by watering and mulching.
7. The seedling is cut to a height of 15–20 cm.

reproduction

Quince reproduces quite easily: by seeds, cuttings, vegetative layering, dividing the bush, through grafting onto a stock. Some features of each method:

1. Reproduction by seeds. planting material taken only from fully ripe fruits. Stratification is required. Seeds are planted directly in the ground before winter, or you can pre-hold them in wet sand at a temperature of 0-3ºС for at least 2-3 months. Cold-stratified seeds are planted in the soil in early spring. Germination may be low, so it is better to prepare them more. Quince fruits contain a lot of seeds, so there should be no problems with planting material. With such reproduction, the generic characteristics of the mother plant are not preserved.
2. Propagation by cuttings. Planting material - tops of annual shoots with 2-3 internodes. Sections are treated with Kornevin or another biostimulant and placed in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 2). At the same time, the cuttings are tilted by about 45º. It is advisable to put the containers in a small greenhouse and regularly spray the substrate to create high humidity.
3. Propagation by vegetative cuttings. The easiest way. In spring, a 1–2-year-old lateral stem is dug in. By autumn, as a rule, root suckers appear. Next, the stem is cut off from the parent bush and planted in a new place, as described above.
4. The division of the bush. There is one significant drawback: the excavated part slowly takes root in a new place.
5. Grafting cuttings. The fastest way to reproduce chaenomeles. It consists in grafting a cutting with 2–3 buds onto a stock, which can be used as a pear, mountain ash, shadberry and hawthorn. Hybrids quickly start growing, often the first flowering is observed already in the year of vaccination.

For those who like to experiment in their garden with plant grafting, we add that there is experience in using Japanese quince as a rootstock for pears. The hybrid turns out to be more winter-hardy, early-growing, compact. The intergrowth of the scion with the stock is good.

plant care

Caring for quince is extremely simple. Those who have at least minimal experience in growing any other fruit or berry trees can handle Japanese quince.

pruning

In the first years of the plant's life, only sanitary pruning is carried out. It consists in removing broken, diseased, weak and crossing branches.

Next comes the turn of the forming trim. It has long been known from the experience of growing quidonia that 3–4-year-old shoots are the most productive in it, therefore, when the bush reaches the age of 5 years, old branches begin to be removed. Shoots each year should be left no more than 2-4 pieces.

Simple arithmetic suggests that an optimally formed bush should contain 10-15 shoots. different ages(1–4 years). When using quinoa in landscaping for hedges or borders, bushes are given an appropriate external shape. The Japanese quince perfectly, no worse than hawthorn, tolerates pruning, so it will not affect the well-being of the plant in any way, it will even begin to branch even more intensively. It is important here not to allow excessive thickening.

The quince hedge looks elegant and unusual

Watering

Watering quince loves moderate, but suffers greatly from prolonged drought. Therefore, you should not water it at all if the average rainfall falls in the summer. Irrigation of the near-stem circle is necessary only if the summer is sunny and hot.

fertilizers

In the spring, before flowering, urea is added at the rate of 25 g / m 2, once every two years in the fall when digging (on the same area) - 4–6 kg of manure or compost, 25 g of double superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate.

Shelter for the winter

If the size of the bush allows you to bend the branches to the ground, then late autumn it is worth doing this and fixing them in this state in any reasonable way, covering them with any air-permeable material, and in winter heat more snow on the bush. In early spring, shoots are freed from oppression.

In severe winters, the Japanese quince is likely to freeze slightly, but, what is valuable, it subsequently recovers. You can help her in this if in the spring, before flowering, pour several buckets of warm water under the plant 2-3 times.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests for the most part bypass quince. But this does not mean that, in principle, it is not affected by fungi, viruses, bacteria and is not attacked by insects. Therefore, you still need to know how to identify the problem and what to do to deal with it.

Table: possible diseases of Japanese quince and ways to deal with them

Diseases	External manifestations	Prevention measures	Control measures
Septoria (white spot)	Pale gray spots with a brown border appear on the leaves in late spring. There is a premature fall of foliage, the winter hardiness of the plant is reduced.	Collection and burning of fallen leaves, digging the earth in the trunk circle. Spraying with Bordeaux liquid when the buds swell and two to three weeks after the end of flowering.	If symptoms of the disease appear, spray with Nitrofen according to the instructions.
fruit rot	Brown spots form on the fruits, which grow rapidly. The flesh turns brown and becomes unsuitable for eating. The fruits fall off.	Removal of branches leading to thickening of the bushes. Removal of fruits damaged by insects and birds from the plant. Destruction of fungus-damaged quince.	Spraying during the leafing period with Skor, after flowering with Horus, 3 weeks before the crop ripens with Fundazol.

Photo gallery: what diseases can quinoa suffer from

Table: possible pests of Japanese quince and ways to deal with them

Collection and use of the crop

"Apples" of quince ripen in autumn, in September-October. The fruits are small, weighing up to 50 g; fully ripe Japanese quince has a yellow color and dark seeds. The harvest is small: very good years up to 3–5 kg (depending on the size of the bush), on average about 1–2 kg.

Japanese quince should not be stored for a long time, especially if you had to collect it not fully ripe. Fruits in a couple of weeks may begin to wrinkle, it is better to put them into processing immediately. Fresh fruit is not eaten - it is very sour. But after all, we don’t eat lemons like apples, the same with the “apples” of Japanese quince. Its use is similar to lemon. Only, in the opinion of many gourmets, quince surpasses it in a variety of taste and aroma. It is also important that citrus does not grow in our gardens, but quinoa - easily!

Quince brings not only aesthetic pleasure, its fruits are very useful

It is a record holder among plants in terms of vitamin C content, and it also contains a whole set of microelements, B vitamins - this is the prevention and treatment of many diseases. Japanese quince can be dried for the winter, it can be added to jam from apples, mountain ash, shadberry. Its main use is preservation with sugar in a ratio of 1: 1 - just pour the pulp, peeled and crushed into puree, then mix and wait until the crystals are completely dissolved. Tea with the addition of the resulting composition acquires a very interesting taste and aroma. Having tried it once, you will most likely forget about the lemon.

Video: Japanese quince blanks

Pests	Life cycle and signs of activity	Prevention and control methods
Affecting bark and wood
Shchitovka	Pests feed on plant sap. Small brown flat growths appear on the bark. If the pest has bred en masse, the tree may die.	In the spring they are sprayed with the following solution: 50 g is diluted in 10 liters of water tar soap, two glasses of ash, 50 g of copper sulfate. In autumn, the bush and the trunk circle are treated with Karbofos.
Foliage-striking
green apple aphid	In early spring, green larvae appear on branches from eggs laid by adult insects. They suck juices from young shoots, buds, leaves. Leaves curl, branches affected by aphids dry up.	In early spring, before bud break, spray with a mixture of liquid soap and kerosene in a ratio of 1:1. During the season, they are sprayed with Nitrofen according to the instructions for its use.
Striking buds and fruits
Sawfly	Caterpillars begin to eat the fruit pulp and seeds at the beginning of the development of the ovary. As a result, the quince stops growing, shrinks and falls off.	Before and immediately after flowering, the plant is sprayed with Karbofos or Chlorophos (35–40 g per 10 l of water).
codling moth	The butterfly lays its eggs under the leaves, and after 2 weeks, caterpillars appear from them, which first eat the leaves, and then move to the fruits and gnaw them. Iva falls.	Carrion is regularly harvested and destroyed to prevent caterpillars from pupating inside the fruit.

Dear editors of the newspaper "Economy"! We purchased two seedlings of pear-shaped quince. The trees have grown healthy in appearance, in the spring they bloom profusely - just white balls. They are in their fourth year. But then all the flowers fall off, even all the fruit twigs dry up. Please, tell me what they are missing. I would like to harvest.

Derevyanko family, Rostov region, Semikarakorsk

Hello, dear Derevianko family! What you are asking about is such a fungal disease: brown spot quince. The leaves and even the tops of the branches dry up.

This can happen both in early spring, when the disease kills both leaves and flowers, and in summer: the tops of the shoots dry out. With the development of the disease in summer, the fruits also do not survive - they turn black and fall off or become ugly, half black.

Sometimes the disease is slightly manifested in the summer. And after harvesting the main crop, it finishes off the remaining fruits, which “suddenly” turn black.

fight this disease chemicals somehow not accepted. Although treatment in early spring before flowering (when the foliage from the buds has unfolded, but the buds have not yet blossomed) with copper-containing systemic preparations: Ridomil, Ordan, Polyhom, Oksihom, helps to cope with the disease in the early stages. If necessary, the treatment is repeated in the summer according to the first signs of brown spotting.

But the majority tries to limit themselves to agrotechnical measures:

• cut damaged branches with the capture of healthy wood,
• collect and burn all the fallen leaves,
• carry out thinning and sanitary pruning.

All these measures are very useful and, as a rule, allow avoiding the death of trees or a significant part of the crown, but it is possible to preserve the crop in unfavorable years (wet spring, warm winter) only with the help of treatments.

If brown spotting was noticed on the trees in summer, the fruits should not be left for storage. They need to be recycled as soon as possible. Losses in the first two weeks of storage will be very significant!

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Japanese quince is a plant that is chosen for its unpretentiousness and pretty appearance. However, sometimes the tree is affected by various diseases and pests. Leaves, fruits, flowers and even the bark of a plant suffer from diseases. In this article we will talk about what pests and diseases of quince exist, and how to treat the plant.

Why quince dries or why quince blooms but does not bear fruit - the most common questions of gardeners who grow given plant. In this case, there is only one answer: most likely, your tree is sick. Of course, the most terrible diseases are various forms cancer (affecting the bark), in which the bark of the plant departs and bursts.

If everything is in order with the bark, and it does not exfoliate, does not move away and does not burst, you can be calm, the plant can be saved. If you notice peeling bark, it is better to get rid of the plant without delay. There are many diseases besides cancer that the quince tree is subject to, and now we will look at them in more detail.

Moniliosis

It's common fungal disease caused by high humidity. First of all, fruits that already have various mechanical damage suffer from the disease. Brown spots begin to appear on them, which very quickly increase in size. Quince fruit becomes loose, loses everything taste qualities and falls to the ground.

What to do to fight the disease? You can use copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture, as well as Teldor or Rovral preparations.

leaf burr

Many farmers are wondering why the quince does not bear fruit? Another popular question: why is everything not in order with fruiting, if outwardly the tree looks absolutely healthy? If the Japanese quince does not bear fruit, and the flowers on the branches have dried up and fallen off, most likely you are dealing with leaf burriness. Another symptom of this disease is the drying of the tips of the shoots. Sometimes the fruits on the quince may still appear, but soon they rapidly turn black and fall off.

What can be done to save the tree? First of all, remove all infected items and burn them. After that, you can treat the quince with a healing agent, such as Oxychoma (or a similar agent).

powdery mildew

First, the ends of the branches are covered with a pale red bloom. If no measures are taken, soon the plaque will turn into a dense film, on which the bodies of the pathogen fungus will be clearly visible. The consequences of this disease are very sad: dried shoots stop developing, the leaves turn yellow, deform and dry out, and the plants themselves stop blooming and dry slowly.

To combat the disease, fungicides are used to treat the plant.

Rust

First, small orange tubercles appear on the leaves, and pustules form on the underside. Over time, such a tubercle cracks, and the spores of the fungus scatter throughout the area. You may also notice that the leaves turn yellow and fall off very quickly.

To get rid of the infection, various kinds of fungicides are used.

Rotting ovaries

This disease begins with the appearance of small dark spots on the leaves, which gradually increase in size. Also, spores can get into the buds and ovaries, which stops flowering.

They get rid of the disease by removing all infected parts of the plant, and then they are treated with Fundazol.

Gray rot

Brown spots form on the leaves, which increase in size very quickly. Plant shoots also suffer. Over time, the leaves and twigs become covered with a fluffy coating. The disease is dangerous because it can very quickly move from one tree to another.

In the fight against this infection, the preparations "Oksihom" and "Topaz" proved to be excellent.

Quince pests

In addition to various ailments, quince can be attacked various insects. They are dangerous because they multiply rapidly and destroy the plant. Therefore, in order to protect the quince from death, it is necessary to recognize the pest as soon as possible and take appropriate measures.

leafmining moth

This is a generalized name for a moth that "mines" the leaves, as a result of which they first become much lighter than they should be, and then fall off. Because of this, the quince is very weakened, tolerates much worse low temperatures, and its yield is much less.

You can get rid of insects with the help of "Fundazol". In order for this pest not to encroach on your quince, it is enough to monitor the cleanliness of the trunk circle.

fruit mites

These are brown and red mites, which pose a great danger to all fruit trees. They infect young shoots and buds of plants, sucking out all the juices from them. characteristic feature The appearance of this insect are sticky drops of juice that the affected plant secretes.

To avoid the appearance of this insect, treat the tree with urea (7%) in the fall.

Aphid

Deforms leaves and shoots, sucking out all the juices from them. They stop growing and gradually fade. Aphids are also a great danger, because they spread viral diseases that cannot be cured.

These insects can damage many fruits. In addition, they multiply very quickly, and therefore several generations of codling moths appear during the season.

The preparations Lepidocid and Dendrobacillin will help get rid of insects.

Video "Common quince"

From this video you will learn how to grow and care for the common quince in the garden.