Warm shower with a stove in the country. We create a warm shower in the country: we find out the technical points

With the onset of the summer season, the owners of cottages and private houses are increasingly thinking about building a shower cabin on their site, since it is an indispensable part of personal use, especially for those who work in the beds. The owner may well make this structure on his own. To do this, it is enough to study the theory and gradually put it into practice. Let us consider in more detail what a country shower equipped with heating consists of.

The device and features of the summer shower

One of the simplest designs of a summer shower consists of a square or rectangular booth, the length of the sides in which is chosen taking into account the build of the people living in the country. If we talk about a water heater, then such cabins are common, the water in which is heated by the sun. The water tank itself is a plastic or metal container. A pipe is built into its bottom, to which a faucet and a shower head are attached. Opening the faucet allows water to flow out of the tank, providing enough pressure for comfortable bathing.

The outer surfaces of the tank of this design are painted with black paint, which allows it to more efficiently absorb the infrared radiation emitted by the celestial body. Usually by the afternoon the water becomes warm, and in the evening it is sometimes just hot.

There is a more advanced version of heating - a tank with a heating element built into it, connected to electricity.
There are also options for heating water with titans, and sometimes craftsmen mount a certain structure in which a blowtorch heats a coil with water flowing inside.

It's interesting, but not too effective ways heating, although in the cold period it will not be possible to do without them.

Preparatory stage: project drawings, dimensions

Any summer shower is required to think over and develop a project before erection. Doing this job is easier than you might think. The height of the structure must be at least 2.5 m so that the person is not constrained during the shower procedure.

Approximate drawing of the future design

It is also required to provide free space inside the cabin, sufficient so that at the moment of bathing it is possible to bend over without bumping into the walls with your elbows. Minimum dimensions rooms - 1 x 1 m. At the same time, you should think about the place to store towels and personal belongings so that they do not get wet. For a "dressing room" an area of 0.5 m² is sufficient. In reality, the most comfortable design will be 1.4 x 1.9 m.

Tip: the small area of \u200b\u200bthe constructed shower room will subsequently cause its destruction. To ensure the stability of the structure, it is recommended to put the booth on a pile foundation.

Heating selection

It is possible to provide heating by purchasing an electric heater, but it is expensive, therefore unprofitable, because the country shower is used only periodically.

You can heat water with a blowtorch, while the pipes are required to be made of metal. Here is how such a design is mounted:

The pipe supplying water to the tank should be taken outside the perimeter of the shower room. Outside the booth, a shelf is fixed on the wall, on which a heat exchanger should be installed.
The last unit is made from a thin tube, twisted into a spiral, and then fixed in a casing. It is easy to make such a "serpentine" - it is enough to wind a thin one on a thick pipe. To get warm water, 4 turns are enough, but there will be a hot shower if you make at least 8 such turns.
Then take a large pot. Its size should allow the coil to fit, as well as a blowtorch.
The free ends of the "coil" must be connected to the water supply pipeline. If you make a connection on the couplings, then it can be removed for the winter.

There is another way - to build a small greenhouse above the tank. For this purpose, the frame is covered with a film. Such a design will increase the water temperature by 10 degrees, and the wind will not be able to cool it.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a shower stall, you will need some tools:

a hammer;
roulette;
level;
corner;
bolts;
nails;
tank and pipes;
a pair of taps;
shovel;
shower head.

As well as the following materials:

boards;
slats;
brick;
plastic sheets;
a frame that will be more convenient to make from pipes;
cement and sand (to organize the foundation and lay out the brick);
insulation, plaster, any paint (for finishing).

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower cabin with your own hands

We choose a convenient place so that the water in the tank can heat up under the sun, and the drain goes into the country sewer. Remember that the building must be protected from drafts and wind. If there is a hillock on the site, use it for a shower cabin: this way the water will heat up faster and there will be less chance of wind “walks”.
Then we build the cabin itself. First, we equip the drain system. The simplest and most hygienic option is to dig a small hole directly under the shower composition, from which lay an inclined pipe to a larger pit - compost or drain. A septic tank and drainage should be located near the drain.
Preparing the base for the summer shower
Next, prepare the base of the shower by digging a small indentation. We cover the roofing material in it, pour crushed stone on top. We mount the shower tray in the recess.
The next step is to install the frame. We assemble the frame, for which we concrete metal pipes, and with the help of long bolts we connect the structure, placing boards and plastic sheets between the pipes. The base should be strong enough, since a tank of water will be installed on it.
We create a dressing inside, which will serve as lags for the shower floor. The slopes are placed between adjacent pillars in the thickness of the wall.
We do the outer lining. Among the options for execution: moisture-resistant plywood, lining, fiberboard and even ordinary film. The cladding of the room should be done in accordance with the general style of the summer cottage - otherwise the design will look like a "black sheep".
Sheathing the frame with boards and plastic panels
We separate the locker room from the room with a shower with a high threshold; in order to avoid splashes, we hang a waterproof curtain between them.
To make it comfortable to take a shower even in the cool season, you can insulate the cabin with polystyrene foam. We fill the space of the frame with sheets of material. From the inside, tighten the film, fixing it on the walls.
Interior decoration can also be made of a film with a pattern that will decorate the space. Attach it with rails to the walls, after covering them with a layer of varnish. Also for interior decoration plastic panels or thin linoleum are perfect.
We install the tank. To do this, we place a vessel on the support pillars (an ordinary barrel is also suitable) above the cabin. To fix it, we mount the outlet and install a tap with a nozzle responsible for spraying water. To fill the tank with water, use a low power pump or connect the tank to the water supply. We make a water supply from a metal-plastic pipe. To avoid overfilling the tank, purchase a valve that will shut off the water supply when the tank is full. Don't forget to paint the barrel black!
Tank installation
If you are worried about sufficient water heating, ensure it by building a greenhouse above the tank. To do this, you just need a frame made of timber, sheathed with a film. So the water will not cool down with gusts of wind, and in sunny weather it will heat up faster.
The easiest option for arranging the floor is to lay boards with gaps so that water flows into an already prepared hole. Plus, the wood floor provides a warm surface for bare feet. The only drawback is that a draft can wander through the cracks, which will cause discomfort. Therefore, an alternative and more attractive option would be the construction of a cement screed, which will subsequently be covered with a moisture-resistant material and hidden under a wooden grate.
The last step is the final design of the shower stall to your own taste. There is complete freedom of imagination here - you can lay tiles on the floor, make a roof with walls from frosted plexiglass, build a sliding door.
Design decoration

The nuances of operating a country shower

It is important for a comfortable stay in the room to have enough heat in it in addition to water. To do this, it is better to organize the thermal insulation of walls and roofs.
It is a mistake to build thick walls with a door that closes tightly. As a result, poor ventilation will lead to the spread of mold.
If the water is heated by a heating element, you should remember the rules for safe electrical installation. Since the degree of humidity in the shower is increased, it is necessary to use plastic drains.

Building a summer shower is a very simple and short-lived business. Stock up on the necessary tools, choose the right material, and add a little imagination and patience to your desire.

Hooray! To the cottage. Dacha is a great way to take a break from the office routine or from hard work in production. At the cottage, you can perfectly relax with friends, barbecue and cognac, or work on the site.

But in any case, after working in the garden or relaxing with your best friends, you need to clean yourself up in the shower. Not every summer resident's estate is equipped in the same way as city apartment. But organize warm shower in the country is easy and simple.

What is needed for this? The answer to this question is different for everyone. Someone chooses a home-made design, someone will get a ready-made heated one, especially since the assortment is very wide.

If you decide to make amenities with your own hands, then first of all study your site. Evaluate his winning and losing zones. The shower room should be located near the house in order to wash and immediately be warm. You also need to take care of the drain. And of course, you need to choose exactly the area where the shower cabin fits well and harmoniously into the landscape.

In addition to choosing a place to build a shower, you should choose a water heater for a shower in the country. Water can be heated by the sun or by electricity.

To do this, choose a black water tank, or paint a metal barrel black. It heats up the water faster. A tank is installed on the shower cabin and a shower head is welded from below. You can make such a garden warm shower with your own hands. The big drawback is that it will only work on hot sunny days.

In this case, the water for a country shower can be heated using sunlight. For this, a solar storage water heater was created. In these devices, water is heated, thanks to vacuum tubes. The water here is heated at any air temperature. In winter, such a device heats water up to 60-70 degrees, and in summer you can get boiling water. The device works perfectly even in cloudy weather, since the work depends on the ultraviolet solar radiation.

When installing electric water heater, you need to make sure the quality of the wiring. If you do not have a central water supply in your country house, and the supply of water is limited or it has to be delivered, then you need a bulk heater. Typically, such heaters are equipped with a 50-100 l tank, a heating element, protection and a thermostat. Water is supplied by buckets or a pump.

Which method of heating to use depends on your capabilities. Today, many companies offer a heated country shower as a turnkey solution. Such complexes are equipped with a cabin, a tank, an electric heater.

And if you like to do everything yourself, then a heated garden shower will be an exciting adventure for you. To do this, you need to choose a place for a country shower, put a metal frame and hang wall-curtains from all sides, and install a heated tank on top.

There are metal and plastic in the country shower. The advantage of plastic ones is that the water does not bloom in them, the welds do not rust, which means that the water in them remains clean, without impurities. The volume of tanks can be from 100 to 320 liters, both classic round and square.

The best rest after hard work in your summer cottage is a pleasant, warm, relaxing shower, which will not only have a calming effect, but also relieve nervous tension that has accumulated over the whole day.

To install the shower, epoxy resin is used, for the manufacture of which special fillers for resins are used.

Therefore, many gardeners equip their plots with summer showers.

Summer shower at your dacha

Shower cubicle on outdoors, perhaps one of the most important buildings on the site. With it, you can not only wash your body after a whole day of work on your site, but also refresh yourself in the summer heat.

Before installing a shower cabin on your site, you need to choose the best place for this. The shower should be located at a small distance from the main building, most often behind the house.

After the owner of the site has decided on the area for the shower and the size of the shower cabin, he can proceed with the installation. This room must be at least 1 sq.m. area, but preferably a little larger.

If a shower dressing room is planned in order to undress and hang dry things, the building area is doubled. The height of the building is usually approximately 2.5 meters.

In general, the dimensions of our cabin are 1.0x2.0x2.5 m, this is the best option. If the cabin is planned to be mounted from wood, then it is necessary to mount the frame using wooden beams or metal corners.

Walls in the shower better way ventilation should recede from the ceiling and floor by twenty centimeters. They can be built from materials left over after the main construction of the homestead.

Shower equipment with water supply

When installing a shower stall in your summer cottage, the owner must necessarily think in advance how to equip the water supply and drainage. Since the drainage and supply system is mounted at the time of laying the foundation of the future shower cabin.

Water in the shower is very often served from a source located at a remote distance. Such a source can be a well drilled on the site, or a standard water supply.

Nowadays, due to the presence of plastic pipes of small diameter, it will not be difficult to connect the cabin to the main source of water supply. What are the benefits of these pipes, they are more durable and do not rust and various erosions, like metal pipes.

They are sold in coils, and there is not much trouble during the laying of the pipe for the water supply, it is only necessary to provide a connection to the main source, which can be done with a small, rubber piece of hose.

You can also easily connect a plastic pipe to a storage tank for a shower. The advantage of such pipes is that if they were not installed thoroughly, they can be easily removed from the site for the winter period.

Shower drain

Water drainage after washing can be done in various ways. Some owners of summer cottages absolutely do not drain the water.

One of the most normal ways is to drain water into a centralized sewer, but, unfortunately, not every owner of a summer cottage has such an opportunity.

The best way, of course, is then the waste and drainage pit. This is inexpensive and allows wastewater to go deep into the ground. A pit for drainage water can be placed under the shower stall, or in close proximity to it.

It is dug out to a depth of no more than 50-60 cm, the size of the sides is 1.0x1.0 m. After the pit is dug, the soil in it is tightly rammed and it is covered with rubble or broken bricks.

On top of the filled pit, put a plastic, steel or wooden pallet.

After that, a shower cabin is mounted. If the wastewater pit is nearby, it is best to drain it from a plastic sewer pipe.

Photo ideas on how to make a summer shower in the country

Who in the summer does not dream of a pleasant coolness and relieving fatigue? Jets of cool invigorating water are what you need on a hot summer day! In this article we will tell you how to make a shower in the country with your own hands.

You need to consider all solutions: turnkey purchased structures and drawing up a construction plan, as well as the subsequent installation of a summer shower.

Drawing a project

Summer shower scheme

Before choosing a place to build a shower, you should pay attention to some nuances. In order not to pull the hose or pipe for a long distance, it is better to place the structure near the well or well. It is also important to take care of the discharge of the drain, for example, into a septic tank or gutter. Otherwise, runoff water will seep into the soil, which can lead to its entry into the aquifer that feeds your well or a neighbor's. If you are planning an outdoor shower heated by solar energy, then it is important that it is erected on the sunny side.

It is better that the shower is located between trees or outbuildings, which will close it from prying eyes and wind.

Note! The site on which the structure will be located must be loose and even. If your site does not have the opportunity to bring the drain of dirty water to the sewer or septic tank, then make sure that there are no accumulations of water under the pan. The best option would be to build a summer shower on a hill, then the water will definitely not stagnate.
Drain device

To improve this process, make drainage using ordinary gravel for this. Do not place such a shower close to the fence of the neighbors, because the soil around the shower can often be damp, which will cause them displeasure.

If you design a shower near the summer kitchen, then using metal-plastic pipes and fittings for them, you can drain water from the sink in the kitchen and from the outdoor shower. Think over all the details in advance and create a drawing of the structure, while indicating the list of necessary materials. Think in advance whether the shower will be stationary or temporary, with the possibility of parsing for the winter.

Finished summer shower

Polycarbonate shower cubicle

When choosing a finished structure, you may be limited only by the size of your financial capabilities or your own imagination. The most popular among consumers is an outdoor shower made of a profile metal pipe or corners. As walls in this variation, an ordinary curtain made of dense polyethylene or cellular polycarbonate is used.

In addition, you have the opportunity to purchase a wooden or metal frame shower.

There are a lot of models of ready-made shower cabins on the modern market, but it’s probably not worth going into an extensive review of them. Sales managers are unlikely to give you the opportunity to get confused. When buying this type of product, pay attention to the following documents:

hygienic characteristics,
fire safety certificate
sanitary and epidemiological conclusions,
instruction manual and design certificate.

Foundation

Equipped drain

To give stability to the frame of the summer shower, you need to build a foundation under it. Please note that when planning the foundation, you should take care of arranging the septic tank or connecting the pipes from the shower to the sewer, and only after that you can do the rest of the processes. Most often, the construction of a pile foundation is practiced. To do this, you need to dig holes up to 1.5 m deep in the ground with a garden drill, then lower the pipes into them so that their ends stick out 30 cm above the ground. They will serve as a kind of piles. Optimal for this purpose will be the use of asbestos-cement pipes having a diameter of 10 cm, but ordinary metal pipes of the same diameter will also be suitable.

Note! The design must support the weight of the tank filled with water, therefore, if the frame is wooden, then the cross section of the beam must be at least 10x10 cm. In addition, before making the base of the shower cabin from a beam, you should treat the material with special water repellents. This approach will extend the life of the structure.

On the foundation, you should install a hewn beam, after which you can start tying the pillars, and you need to start the process from above. You must assemble the cabin frame on the ground and only then can it be fixed to the base with bolts of the appropriate length. Now you can make a ligation of the bars, which will be used as a log for mounting the floor in the cabin. Previously, this type was the only option for installing a floor in an outdoor shower, but now it is possible to choose a pallet in a specialized store, from which the drain can be drained into grass or into a septic tank, sewerage.

You can also make a columnar foundation, for which 6 holes should be dug, having a size of 20x20 cm and a depth of about 50 cm. For each of them, you need to make a timber formwork with the same width, depth and height equal to 20 cm. Building level it needs to be aligned horizontally. To strengthen the foundation, stick 3 reinforcing bars into each hole, and then tie them with wire. To avoid contact of the foundation with the ground, lay a rolled piece of roofing material on the bottom. Now fill the recesses with cement mortar, and then align it with the formwork. Insert metal studs into the center of each of them. Part of each of them should remain outside, and the other part, equal to 12 cm, should be recessed into the cement mortar. After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork. Start at the base of the foundation. Now you can proceed with the installation of your chosen and pre-prepared frame, which must be connected to the protruding studs.

A less popular and more costly option is the arrangement of a strip foundation. To do this, first make a markup under the foundation. Measure the diagonals of the intended rectangle, they should be the same. Now dig trenches for the strip foundation. The width and depth of the trench corresponds to 30 cm; build formwork along the edges. Then fill the trench with concrete. After the foundation has hardened, check its levelness, and, if necessary, smooth out the unevenness with a sand-cement mortar. Now you can do the frame.

We build a frame

wooden frame

Decide in advance on the final dimensions of the building. To create a good water pressure, you need to raise a barrel or other container by 2.5 m. The space of the shower cabin from the inside should be at least 100x100 cm so that the person who is washing can bend down freely and also raise their hands up without bumping on the walls of the structure. To create more comfort, if the size of the site allows, you will need to provide a dressing room, the dimensions of which should be at least 160x100 cm. The final dimensions of your building, taking into account the wall thickness, are 200x150 cm. In this way, you can use the standard size of the boards without waste if your design will be made of wood.

If you plan to make a frame from metal pipes or corners, then you need to have the skill of working with a welding machine. The base for the canopy, consisting of pipes or corners, can be pre-concreted in the four corners of the foundation, which will only strengthen the entire future structure.

If you have to make a frame from wooden beams, then by all means make the bandaging of the frame from above and below. Assemble the frame on the ground by bolting it together and then install it on the foundation. To do this, pre-drill holes for the reinforcement in the lower base and put the frame on it. To increase stability, you can fix the struts diagonally on the side frames.

The walls can be sheathed with anything, for example, with ordinary opaque polyethylene - this is the most economical option, but also the least long-term. If you need a more reliable design, then sheathe the walls with plexiglass, slate, asbestos-cement boards, metal sheets, plastic panels, chipboard or OSB, etc. If you do not own large funds, then curtain the entrance to the shower with an ordinary waterproof curtain. But, if you are interested in a more aesthetic version of the shower cabin, then be sure to make a door for it from the same material with which you sheathed the frame. A flat water tank can serve as a roof. Otherwise, you will have to reinforce the base of the roof with jumpers, and then close it with the material chosen for the walls. Now you can install the tank.

We install the tank and organize the water supply

shower tank

Outdoor shower experts strongly recommend using a flat tank rather than a round barrel. Why? Everything is logical here, because in a flat container the water heats up faster by the sun than in a round barrel. It is much easier to strengthen a flat tank than a round one, and its weight will be evenly distributed over the roof. Moreover, this way you can save money on a separate arrangement of the roof.

Supply of communications

Before lifting the container to the roof, you need to install a faucet with a nozzle and make a threaded outlet, you can use silicone to seal each thread. Install a water level meter or a special valve in the tank that will shut off the flow when it is filled. Now fix it to the roof.

Note! To quickly warm up the water, it is worth pre-painting the tank with black paint.

Also equip a kind of film greenhouse around the tank, for this you will need to cover the container with north side foil - this will reduce heat transfer.

Warming up the shower

If you want to create a shower enclosure that can be used in the spring, then you need to make a special thermal insulation layer. As thermal insulation, you can use foam, polystyrene foam or other material at your discretion, due to the fact that the range of such products is very diverse.

So, for starters, you should fill the frame with insulation, and then cover it with polyethylene and secure it with staples. You should also wrap the timber at the base of the structure with a film. This will protect the inner material from moisture. To prevent blowing, install overhead heaters on the door. Now carry out the interior upholstery of the shower cabin. Basically, durable PVC film, plastic panels or linoleum are used for this. Then proceed to cladding. To maintain a single style, it is better to use the same material for this, which has already been used to decorate other buildings in the yard.

If you have already made an insulated shower, then think over and electrical system water heating. But, remember that it is very important to adhere to all safety measures here, yes, and if you are not an electrician, then it is better to use the services of a specialist. After all, in the process of performing these works, you need to take care of grounding and automatic switching on and off of the heating device for water.

Good preparation and a skillful approach to business will help you create for your loved ones for pleasure and for your own joy! Do you have experience in how to make a shower in the country? Have you successfully dealt with the difficulties encountered in the implementation process? Share your experience with us, write comments! We will be glad to learn from you useful and new facts!

Video

Homemade shower in the country:

A photo

Communication scheme

Examples of a shower for a summer residence

Capabilities internal arrangement

stroysvoimirukami.ru

Do-it-yourself shower in the country: summer and winter options

Most summer residents think about creating a shower in the country with their own hands.

Firstly, it is an opportunity to improve comfortable conditions without high costs.

Secondly, a properly equipped outdoor garden shower allows you to meet the necessary sanitary needs, as it is suitable for use at any time of the year.

And besides, crafts for decorating it make any garden area exclusive.

Design features

Modification of the shower cabin depends on the duration and conditions of its operation.

If the shower will be used exclusively in the summer, then a simple quick-mounted structure, such as a shower rack, a camp shower or a toptun, is sufficient.

You can install a simple camping summer shower with your own hands for quite a short time.

If long-term operation is planned, including in the cold season, then it is necessary that the design of the craft shower be reliable and provide for the possibility of installing equipment for heating not only water, but also air in the cabin.

It is more difficult to install a winter shower in the country with your own hands, since its design needs a frame and a foundation.

Regardless of the modification, the country version of the design provides for the following equipment:

base or foundation;
drain ladder or drain;
pallet and floor;
cabin;
holder-diffuser and stop valves;
pipeline;
devices for pumping and heating water, as well as for heating the cab.

As a material for such crafts as a country shower room without a foundation, film or plastic is used.

For booths installed on the foundation, it is preferable to choose more durable materials - wood or brick. A good option is a do-it-yourself polycarbonate shower.

The most famous modifications of the shower craft used in summer cottages:

Toptun - mat with pump and hose. The water supply is provided by pressing the feet on the mat;
Camping - a compact portable plastic container equipped with a hose and nozzle. It can be stationary, mobile;
Circular. The circular option provides water supply from all sides;
Alekseev. Provides hydromassage by supplying water under high pressure;
Tropical. The flow of water entering through a special grate looks like a tropical downpour.

Making a circular shower with your own hands is quite difficult, but the result of this work will please any summer resident.

Toptun - the most popular shower among summer residents

Simple designs-crafts of shower devices intended for summer operation are considered the best solution to the issue of country hygiene.

After all, installing the same circular or tropical shower is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. That is why, choosing which shower to make in the country with their own hands, summer residents most often stop at a trample.

To build a toptun shower with your own hands, you will need a car pump, two corrugated hoses, a container with a lid, and a shower head. You don't even need a holder.

The sequence of operation of the toptun:

Water of the required temperature is drawn into the container. Considering that the volume of the container is small, a do-it-yourself shower tray, if it is a toptun, is not needed;
Crafts are attached to the lid - a wooden or rubber cork equipped with holes and tubes, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the hoses;
The container is covered with a lid with attached hoses - one from a car pump, the second - a shower head holder. Under the pressure of air from the pump, water enters the hose. The watering can is held in the hand or attached to any surface.

By the same principle, you can make a camping summer shower. To do this, you will need a rubber mat or pedals equipped with built-in valves, as well as two hoses.

As a container for water, an ordinary bucket is used, covered with a lid, in the hole of which the inlet hose-holder of the watering can is fixed.

As in the first option, the pallet is not required, and the earth replaces the drain drain.

The water supply to the hiking version is carried out by alternately pressing the pedals with your feet.

Each step provides one serving of water. As a rule, the marching method saves water and is used in conditions with limited access to water resources.

Also, a camping outdoor shower can be used to wash a car.

A circular shower can be considered as another option for a country house, but in this case, the actions listed above will not be enough. You will need a special holder for it.

How to expand functionality?

The functional purpose of a shower room, even in summer cottages, should not be limited solely to hygienic considerations.

For many summer residents, their own bath is an important part suburban area.

But not everyone knows that a do-it-yourself country tropical shower in a bath can fully replace many of the procedures offered by spa salons.

In practice, the available functionality of the shower room is the result of the choice of its type.

That is, in order for the built country shower in the bath to live up to expectations, you need to learn more about its functionality and installation steps.

In the minds of most people, the bath is associated with in a healthy way life, and visiting it is considered a preventive measure.

Therefore, the famous shower of Alekseev will come in handy in the bath.

Alekseev's shower is a new generation design, an analogue of the well-known Charcot shower with hydromassage properties.

But Alekseev's shower, an invention of the Russian doctor of the same name, is equipped differently and has no analogues in the world in terms of the effectiveness of the impact.

The use of a device created according to the Alekseev method provides healing through massage and is recommended for many diseases.

To independently install Alekseev's shower in the bath, you need to understand how it works.

The unique difference of the device is the high-speed streams formed using the special design of the holes in the nozzle for the watering can.

If you make such a nozzle yourself, then installing Alekseev's device in your own bath is not difficult.

To do this, it is necessary to drill cone-shaped holes in the nozzle for the watering can - wide on the side of the water flow and tapering towards the outlet.

Then the craft nozzles are installed on the holder. The holder must be chosen carefully.

Considering that Alekseev's device gives a strong flow of water, care must be taken to ensure that the ladder provides its full drain, or use a pallet.

At the same time, Alekseev's shower can be operated not only in a summer cottage, but also in an apartment.

Features of self-installation of various types

The functions of the device used in summer cottages can be expanded if you use the non-standard capabilities of its structural varieties.

For example, a circular shower, along with hygiene, will also provide a healing effect.

According to the principle of the device, the circular type of shower is a few systemically located pipes equipped with small holes and a faucet.

In the center is a holder with the main watering can. With the help of a tap, the water supply pressure is regulated.

Thus, the circular shower additionally provides a comprehensive hydromassage of the body.

You can install such a device yourself both in the country and in the apartment.

To create an original shower craft, it is necessary to connect several pipes equipped with small holes in series with the central riser, on which the mixer holder is located.

In shape, the circular type of shower resembles the back of a chair with transverse or longitudinal crossbars.

Then you should take care of the flow of water - the ladder will cope with this task. The owner of the cottage has the right to decide whether he needs a pallet in this case, or a ladder will do just fine.

An excellent alternative to a regular shower can be a rain shower. This is a device whose water flows mimic a tropical downpour.

Functionally, the tropical shower type is a hydromassage device.

However, not every apartment has the opportunity to install a rain shower, but if such a design is installed in the garden, the impression of authenticity will be complete.

It is not difficult to build a rain shower in the country on your own. To do this, it is enough to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe watering can of the mixer and strengthen its holder.

A ladder will help control the discharge of a powerful stream of water, which distinguishes a rain shower. It is also convenient to use a deep pan.

But you need to remember that both the holder, and the ladder, and the watering can must be of high quality.

Construction stages

To build a summer shower with your own hands, you need to know the basic rules of the process:

Preparation - determine the dimensions and draw a diagram;
Choice of location - a sunny place on a hill, which is not too far from the house and the water supply, but with the possibility of arranging a drainage system if a ladder is provided in the shower equipment, or a drain pit if a pallet is installed;
Construction of the foundation - level the site equal to the size of the building, then fill it with concrete;
Installation of the frame - piles are installed and fixed at the corners of the site, then they are tied up, constructing the shower floor. The racks of the frame are fixed with self-tapping screws. Build walls and roof;
Summing up communications - installation of a tank, equipment for draining, lighting and ventilation;
Mount pipes and a pallet - it is necessary to drain water. Sometimes they do not use a pallet, but a floor in which a large ladder is mounted. The best option for a drain system is a ladder with a lock and a grate. The shower drain performs the function of a sewer, but may have a different throughput;
Waterproofing, wall cladding. For operation in the cold season, the walls need to be insulated;
decorative design shower cubicle. beautiful crafts increase the aesthetic appeal of the entire suburban area.

If the weight of the structure is small, then a foundation is not required for its installation. For example, a metal frame for a polycarbonate booth is installed on fittings driven into the ground.

In addition, it is physically easier to build a do-it-yourself polycarbonate shower than a brick one.

A properly built base will allow you to upgrade your shower room in the future and enjoy its new possibilities endlessly.

stoydiz.ru

We make our own heated shower in the country

The device and features of the summer shower

Summer shower for a summer residence

One of the simplest designs of a summer shower consists of a square or rectangular booth, the length of the sides in which is chosen taking into account the build of the people living in the country. If we talk about a water heater, then such cabins are common, the water in which is heated by the sun. The water tank itself is a plastic or metal container. A pipe is built into its bottom, to which a faucet and a shower head are attached. Opening the faucet allows water to flow out of the tank, providing enough pressure for comfortable bathing.

There is a more advanced version of heating - a tank with a heating element built into it, connected to electricity.
There are also options for heating water with titans, and sometimes craftsmen mount a certain structure in which a blowtorch heats a coil with water flowing inside.

These are interesting, but not very effective methods of heating, although in the cold period you cannot do without them.

Preparatory stage: project drawings, dimensions

Approximate drawing of the future design

It is also required to provide free space inside the cabin, sufficient so that at the moment of bathing it is possible to bend over without bumping into the walls with your elbows. The minimum dimensions of the room are 1 x 1 m. At the same time, you should think about where to store towels and personal belongings so that they do not get wet. For a "dressing room" an area of 0.5 m² is sufficient. In reality, the most comfortable design will be 1.4 x 1.9 m.

Tip: the small area of \u200b\u200bthe constructed shower room will subsequently cause its destruction. To ensure the stability of the structure, it is recommended to put the booth on a pile foundation.

Heating selection

It is possible to provide heating by purchasing an electric heater, but it is expensive, therefore unprofitable, because the country shower is used only periodically.

You can heat water with a blowtorch, while the pipes are required to be made of metal. Here is how such a design is mounted:

The pipe supplying water to the tank should be taken outside the perimeter of the shower room. Outside the booth, a shelf is fixed on the wall, on which a heat exchanger should be installed.
The last unit is made from a thin tube, twisted into a spiral, and then fixed in a casing. It is easy to make such a "serpentine" - it is enough to wind a thin one on a thick pipe. To get warm water, 4 turns are enough, but there will be a hot shower if you make at least 8 such turns.
Then take a large pot. Its size should allow the coil to fit, as well as a blowtorch.
The free ends of the "coil" must be connected to the water supply pipeline. If you make a connection on the couplings, then it can be removed for the winter.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a shower stall, you will need some tools:

a hammer;
roulette;
level;
corner;
bolts;
nails;
tank and pipes;
a pair of taps;
shovel;
shower head.

As well as the following materials:

boards;
slats;
brick;
plastic sheets;
a frame that will be more convenient to make from pipes;
cement and sand (to organize the foundation and lay out the brick);
insulation, plaster, any paint (for finishing).

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower cabin with your own hands

The nuances of operating a country shower

It is important for a comfortable stay in the room to have enough heat in it in addition to water. To do this, it is better to organize the thermal insulation of walls and roofs.
It is a mistake to build thick walls with a door that closes tightly. As a result, poor ventilation will lead to the spread of mold.
If the water is heated by a heating element, you should remember the rules for safe electrical installation. Since the degree of humidity in the shower is increased, it is necessary to use plastic drains.

Building a summer shower is a very simple and short-lived business. Stock up on the necessary tools, choose the right material, and add a little imagination and patience to your desire.

grounde.ru

Summer shower for a summer residence

Nowadays, it is almost impossible to find a person who does not have country house where you can hide from the heat and city dust in the country. An outdoor shower is an indispensable attribute in any temporary housing (dacha, tourist base).

There are two ways to install it - buy a ready-made version, or do it yourself. The cost of such a design varies from 5 to 18 thousand rubles. But any beginner can build a shower on his own, for this there is no need to purchase expensive materials, since you can get by with improvised ones - plastic, plywood, polycarbonate, slate sheets, iron, etc.

Summer shower for giving from plastic and woodBack to index

Choosing a place for a summer shower

In order to properly build a shower with your own hands, you need to choose the right place, on which the convenience and functionality of the structure will depend. It must be protected from strong winds, since in the summer it is likely to get sick from the slightest draft during water procedures. Even if the water is heated by an electric heater, it is better to install the booth in a sunny place. The energy of the sun quickly heats the water and is able to retain heat at night.

Summer shower in a sunny place

For the normal functioning of the soul, it is important to create everything the necessary conditions wastewater disposal and drainage. On hot days, the load increases, so it is better to do drain hole volume from 1.5-2 m3 (this volume should be 2 times the volume of the water tank).

One of the easiest methods for shaping a drain is to dig a hole under the shower stall. But this method is not always practical. Therefore, a recess is often built where an inclined pipe is located, through which water is directed to a drain or compost pit.

The drainage and septic tank should be located next to the drain, but not under the shower stall, as they can be flooded with flowing water, which will lead to unpleasant odors, destruction of the soil and the very foundation of the structure.

Scheme of the base for the summer shower

Water runoff must be equipped with a waterproof coating. For such a layer, you can use:

ruberoid;
film laid on an inclined embankment;
a slope reinforced with a metal mesh, equipped with a gutter;
hydrostekloizol.

Tip: the slope must be positioned so that the outflow of water is directed towards the drainage tank or trench. To ensure good water flow, it is better to place a shower stall on a hill.

As Ostap Bender would say, a dacha shower is not a luxury, but a means of hygiene. Moreover, it is a remedy of paramount importance: according to medical statistics, people who put off bathing after a weekend in the country until they arrive home go to doctors about skin and gastrointestinal diseases 12% more often than others; data of a similar nature are not available for other types of health disorders.

You can buy a simple country shower room, designed only for summer weather, for 10,000 rubles. Having spent an amount that is 2-3 times less, or even completely from improvised materials, you can build a warm shower with your own hands, suitable for bath procedures from the beginning to the end of the summer season. In this case, a full range of amateur products is found - from a slimy konurka, the dream of a greedy dermatologist (there will be many patients, they will give money) through completely functional, hygienic and even almost not spoiling the view of the building site to structures from, for example, construction waste, at the sight of who nods his head in understanding experienced designer, see fig.

But, characteristically, the medical correlation with the type of soul - purchased, different price categories, or homemade, can not be traced. A “super-duper firm” for 70-100 “sput”, with automation and touch-remote control, can turn out to be a hotbed of infection, and a shower concocted from a kondachka in the country will faithfully guard the cleanliness and health of the owners long years and decades.

Do-it-yourselfers with manufacturers are not to blame here; and that, and others efforts, skills and considerations do not occupy. It's simple - no one really knows how to do it, a country shower. If there are any regulatory rules for its construction, then neither the builders, nor the plumbers, nor the orderlies know anything about them. It is clear that you need to do a country shower correctly in essence, i.e. so that it does not infect, but does not infect, and so that the contents of wastewater do not kill the earth and spoil the crop, but how? It's dark here, like in Khrushchev's bathroom, when the plugs were knocked out.

For example, the minimum volume of a cesspool is supposed to be 2 cubic meters. m, but this is with the standard volume of flow, and in the country it is many times less. The biochemistry of the cesspool is disgusting, but well balanced; the pit should neither overflow nor dry out. Modern (dry closets) allow you to reduce the volume of the cesspool and the frequency of calls to the toilet, but the processes in the cesspool do not fundamentally change. What volume and design do you need a cesspool for an outdoor shower? I have no idea, as Barack Obama would say. The same applies to other components and structural elements. In fact, those who want to make a country shower competently are pulled according to the norm from there, then from there, and there - maybe they will all come together. Or maybe they will disperse, and the byaka will come out.

Well, let's try to include what mother nature of the American president has yet to deprive a little, to say at the end: "Well, at least I've found a good ideal!". We will design a summer shower for ourselves, based on the principles:

Hygiene - neither the shower itself nor the water for it should harm those washing, only benefit.
Environmental friendliness - the drain from the shower should not harm the environment either in the near (in the form of compliance of the crop from the site with sanitary standards) or in the far (in the form of water quality from local water sources) perspective, in space and time.
Practicality, it is also functionality - it should not only be possible, but it should be pleasant and useful not only to freshen up in the heat, but also to wash in any weather from the first to the last trip to the country.
Aesthetics - a shower cabin for a summer residence should at least not spoil the landscape design of the site, but, preferably, organically fit into it. An alternative is an invisible shower, collapsible or not conspicuous.
Profitability - the construction of a shower should take a minimum of labor, materials and financial costs, without prejudice to any of the previous qualities.

We will use the existing norms and rules, but for verification, so as not to fantasize nonsense. And we also use a good bit of knowledge about physical and chemical processes in nature and the soul. The data in the regulatory documents is the tip of the iceberg and, since there is no single code for country showers, you will have to turn to the basics. To properly build a shower, let's go from one critical node to another; what is in the middle, then it will be easier. Realistically, in this order:

Base.
Stock and cesspool.
Design choice.
The possibility of combining functions (shower, combined with a toilet, etc.)
Floor, pallet and platform.
Cabin - frame, walls, etc.
Diffuser (watering can), pipelines, valves.
Additional equipment - water heater, cabin heating, pumping.

What does all-weather mean?

Item 3 of the list above is especially important for medical reasons. When it is violated, the case no longer smells of itchy ankles and shoulders, but of such things as pneumonia. A heated shower means more than just hot or warm water.

Let's say it's +13 outside, but you need to wash. The cabin has cooled down to the same temperature: there will be only sense from warming (may the readers forgive the involuntary pun) if there are heat sources inside the washing room. Without them, you will have to tremble and shiver for 2-5 minutes until the heat of the spray from the watering can heats up the cabin. And in the meantime and hot water may end, the tank is not vat.

So, you need to heat not only the water in the tank, but also the air in the shower. It is highly desirable to create a warm island in a light cabin with large gaps at the bottom and top. How to achieve this, we'll see when it comes to additional equipment; for now, as they say, we will tie a knot.

child question

Why is the shower separate? In the apartment he is together. Then, that summer cottages are not equipped with sewage. Here it is appropriate to recall the rule: the cesspool must be at least 15 m away from residential buildings. The point is not only in miasma, but also in the fact that the filtrate from the cesspool can wash away the foundation of the house with all that it implies. Set up a shower country house yet it is possible. Then, if the house is heated, then the shower will be all-weather.

Note: a bioseptic tank, which almost does not give harmful fumes, under certain conditions can be moved up to 4-5 m to the house. But this topic already applies to the arrangement of country toilets.

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

The need for a zero cycle of country-shower work is eliminated in the following cases, see fig. below:

When a compact portable shower is used, on the left in fig.
If the shower with adjacent outbuildings are ready-made modular, in the center in fig.
If the cabin is on a frame made of plastic pipes (propylene or PVC) with soft skin, on the right there.

Compact shower in a suitcase (on sale - big choice) is used in any random place, but is inconvenient in relation to heating water; it is difficult to adapt a water heater to it, and compactness with mobility is immediately lost. Capacity - rinse one or two. To this, a soul and a cesspool are not needed - there is not enough water in the tank, and no matter who and no matter how they wash, the local ecology will digest such a volley discharge.

Modular showers are designed to be installed directly on the ground. They are supplied with adjustable legs, which, when installed permanently, allows compensating for current soil movements. modular places common use are more familiar to citizens from public dry closets, but besides them and modular showers, kitchens, shelters, etc. are also produced, so that a full-fledged hozblok can be assembled from the modules. Pleasure is by no means cheap, more modules are used to organize the amenities of professional mobile teams. A cesspool is not required, you only need to change the filler of the built-in septic tank in a timely manner.

Frames of soft showers are put on stakes driven into the ground from reinforcing bars. If the frame is made of PP water pipes, then it is assembled using standard connectors, but one size larger, and not by soldering, but by self-tapping screws. The cabin turns out to be collapsible and quite reliable, because. the frame is lightly loaded and absolutely maintainable. Sheathing is most often made of colored tarpaulin: in the heat then the cabin is not so parky, in the cool it is warmer, and the tarpaulin, unlike the film, does not stick nasty to a wet body. Such a design will withstand a 12-point earthquake, if only the earth itself from under the shower does not go anywhere. A cesspool is needed, so soft showers are not particularly popular: if you dig a hole, then it’s better to make a foundation, and put something more impressive and more attractive on it.

Under plastic

It is possible to build a shower cabin from light, resilient and chemically resistant materials with rigid sheathing (see below) without a foundation, even on very heaving soil. So that it does not overturn, in this case, 30-40 cm of a non-porous pillow is enough. Specifically - sand and gravel bedding in layers equal power. The thickness of the pillow is approximate, in fact, the upper humus layer of the soil is removed to the underlying rock: loam, sandy loam. Summer cottages on meter-long black soil are not distinguished, so you won’t have to dig very deep, but still - 30 cm, of which 15 is sand and 15 is gravel, this is the minimum. Suddenly, after the winter, it still warps, the booth can be moved back, the pillow leveled, and put back as it was.

Note: a plastic shower is attached to the ground with the lower ends of the pipes put on fittings driven into the ground, like a soft shower. But there is a difference - since the structure is permanent, then the stakes are driven into the ground at least 0.35 m below the bottom of the pillow, and it is better, if local conditions allow, to the freezing depth, then seasonal distortions are excluded.

Under the tree

A shower made of wood, in principle, can also be placed simply on a pillow, but double impregnation of wood with a water-polymer emulsion, biocides and then treatment with hot bitumen will protect the support frame and floor from decay for 3-10 years, depending on local conditions. Wood treated in this way can hold strength for 30-40 years, but mold fungi with bacteria will get to where they stand and rub against bodies much faster. Therefore, a shower cabin made of natural lumber should be raised above the ground by at least 20-25 cm, and for a hygienic cesspool (see below) - by 35-40 cm.

an example of the implementation of the foundation for a country shower room

The means to ensure these requirements has long been known - a columnar or pile foundation. For such a light and freely "acting out" wooden structure, for reasons of economy, the second is preferable. There is no need to buy expensive ones, it is better to get by with homemade hammers. Simply - with pipe segments with a diameter of 60-150 mm (if available) with ends flattened into a spear. Further - a sledgehammer or a home-made woman (it is much easier to work with her), and - to the estimated freezing depth for a given area.

Location of piles - 1 per corner and every full or incomplete 1.5 m of the contour. After cutting the protruding ends with a grinder at the hose level, anchor bolts (M12 - M16) are welded to the piles; they are dressed and attracted by nuts with washers 40-60 mm in diameter, the lower support frame - the grillage.

An alternative option, again, depending on the availability of materials, is drilled piles from asbestos-cement pipes. The wells go to the same freezing depth with a hand drill. It is very good if there is a camouflage nozzle for it, with which wells are drilled under a strip-pile foundation on heaving soils. Reinforcing piles and pouring them with concrete are also similar to the indicated case. Asbestos-cement piles are cut in height with a grinder with a stone circle before reinforcement and pouring. Anchor bolts are immured to a depth of 120 mm.

Under the metal

Under the shower on a metal frame, the foundation is made the same as under a wooden one: if the wood rots, then the metal rusts. In this case, piles are preferably driven metal, and a grillage from a channel of 50-80 mm is welded to them.

Under the brick

A brick shower in the country is a rarity, laborious and expensive. But it has a valuable advantage - it is easy to heat it. It is enough to pass the return flow from the tank to the water heater through an old thin-walled heating radiator (see below), and in a closet with half-brick walls, insulation with 30 mm packaging foam, dimensions 1.2x1.2 m in plan and a ceiling height of 2.2 m with +8 outside in 4-5 hours it will be +22.

Brick buildings are not elastic, heavy, and therefore the foundation for a brick shower needs to be strong and stable. Since the structure in this case is small, the slab is optimal in terms of labor intensity and costs. monolithic foundation. Its device is simple: a solid (required!) Reinforced concrete slab 170-300 mm thick is placed on the non-porous pillow described above and with a 0.3-0.5 m extension beyond the building contour, this will be a blind area.

The brand of concrete does not matter much, M150 is enough. Reinforcement - a cage with a mesh (150-200) x (300-400) mm from a 12 mm bar. If it is planned to equip the compact cesspool described below, then it is better to pour the slab on the spot, encircling the recess under the barrel with formwork.

cesspool

As already mentioned, in order to maintain the biochemistry in the sewage pit necessary for the disposal of effluents to a naturally recyclable level of pollution, the moisture content in them must be kept within certain limits. For example, in the instructions for branded fillers for septic tanks, it is clearly indicated: do not fill it, it will turn sour and stink. Do not let it dry out, the microflora will die, and generally stop working.

The fact that the drain from the shower is too liquid for a general cesspool in the country is obvious. But its chemical composition also matters: there is practically no household organic matter, a nutrient medium for beneficial bacteria in the pit. Unless someone will use the shower, like Polygraph Polygraphych Sharikov from "Heart of a Dog" uses the toilet. But in excess of alkalis (from soap) and detergents (surfactants, surfactants), from shampoos, gels, etc., which are harmful to them.

Therefore, to reduce drains from the shower and toilet in the country to a common pit is a gross mistake from the point of view of biochemistry. The kitchen can still be used together with the toilet, but the shower must be taken separately to a special pit. In a city apartment, the matter is different: there, until the drains reach treatment facilities, everything will mix up and react so much that only the percentage composition for simple compounds and elements will matter. In any case, it is impossible to build a sewerage system separate for the bathroom and toilet in the city.

Note: what kind of abominations do researchers not sometimes have to delve into, eh? But it's something necessary and useful.

Here the question arises: so what, take out the extra 2 cubes of soil? Since the septic tank does not recycle the shower drain? And the weaving of land disappears: from the harvest from the vicinity of a simple pit, consumer supervision will screech with a screech when the analysis is done.

Not at all necessary, given the time of heating the water, the maximum frequency of using a country shower resulting from it and the volume of water in the tank (there can be no more one-time flow). That is, we are faced with 2 tasks: the first is to bring the runoff into the soil little by little, so that organic acids from the soil have time to neutralize alkalis and decompose detergents. The second is to bring them into the soil below the fertile layer, so as not to kill the soil microanimal. And organic acids, a product of her vital activity, will seep from above.

Calculations, for a description of which, unfortunately, there is no space here, show that a drain of 100 l / h or 50 l in one gulp (for a country shower for normal users, this, as they say, is above the roof), must be discharged into the ground at a depth of at least in 2 thicknesses of the humus layer. Conclusion: an ordinary 200-liter barrel with a height of 850 mm will help us out. fertile layer 40 cm is not a cottage, it is Eldorado. A smaller plastic barrel will do, as long as its volume is not less than a one-time discharge (we take the tank capacity for it), and the height is at least 2 thicknesses of humus.

Note: if you feel sorry for the barrel, the shell of the pit can be made from old tires. Only then will it be necessary to periodically pour bleach into the pit, in the resulting side cavities, with frequent use, the wastewater will stagnate.

From theory to practice

Arrange a compact and cheap cesspool for a shower from a barrel is easy. First, we dig a pit according to the diagram in Fig. to a depth equal to the height of the barrel. The distance from the siphon spout to the neck of the barrel is not critical, the plastic corrugated hose will reach. Then we cut off the bottom and the lid with the neck from the barrel. The bottom is no longer needed, and we cut off a segment from the cover to make an inspection hatch; it needs a tight lid.

We install the barrel in the pit, backfill the soil. Next is the filter. We pour fine crushed stone into the cesspool with a layer of 15-20 cm. In a bucket of water, we shake 1-1.5 kg of any clay to “milk”, and pour the filling evenly with a thin stream until the clay milk covers it. After a day or two, when the water leaves and the clay dries up, we stir up the filtering layer, often piercing it thickly with a pointed armature. It remains to weld the lid, and after the construction of the shower, insert it into the neck and seal the siphon spout with construction foam. You can insert a tee into the neck and feed the drain from the kitchen here, it is more similar in bio- and simple chemistry to a shower than to a toilet.

Note: if construction is underway nearby, and the concrete mixer is free, you can knead porous concrete, from which filters are made when building wells. Then backfill with clay impregnation is not needed - 2-3 buckets of porous batch are simply dumped into the cesspool and leveled.

The smell from such a cesspool is excluded constructively. It is convenient to inspect and, suddenly, need to clean it, and the cost of labor and money is nothing at all; useful area, except for the one under the shower, is not withdrawn from economic use. At the dacha of the author of the article, a shower cesspool from a barrel has been working properly for almost 20 years. I didn’t need to clean it even once (they go to the dacha on weekends and spend their holidays there). The barrel from the inside is overgrown with a dense layer of some chemical compounds but not rusted through. Fruits from plants in the immediate vicinity of the pit were repeatedly submitted for analysis to the sanitation station, which invariably showed their full suitability for food. For the test, they scored a well for water 5 m from the pit - the water turned out to be good.

More about shower with toilet

A shower with a cesspool of this type can be placed in a block with a toilet. For the latter, by the way, if the dacha is summer, it is not at all necessary to make a rather complicated and expensive septic tank, not to mention an antediluvian two-cube pit. You can do without a toilet cesspool at all by arranging a powder closet. More precisely, powder sorter, because. it's a french idea. Sortie in French way out; toilet, respectively - a latrine. Powder-closet can be used only in the warm season, but it was the study of the processes in it that led to the invention of dry closets. However, this is again about country toilets, which require a separate analysis.

What will the shower be like?

Now that we know how much work is needed to arrange a shower area, and in what cases we can do without them, it's time to decide - what kind of shower will we do? Or buy? In general, the choice is:

Compact portable shower.
Street extension to the house.
Garden cabin.
Capital shower.
Household complex in the shower.
Shower room in the house.

Compact is not compact

A portable shower does not have to be carried everywhere with you. No one bothers to use it constantly in one place. In the same way, no one bothers to fill the wineskin with hot water, heated on a fire or in a stove, immediately before washing. The only thing that is required additionally is a fence.

Shower enclosures for mobile showers are sold, complete with the actual shower or as an option. But, frankly, the game is not worth the candle - a shower enclosure is easier to make yourself. The simplest, but very convenient option is a semicircular guide attached to the wall of the house, see Fig., And a curtain. It is not necessary to bend a stainless steel pipe, you can get by with propylene plumbing, put on all the same pins from reinforcing bars. Then the fence will be completely collapsible. It is better to sew a curtain from a colored tarpaulin (preferably also propylene); why - said above.

Cabin on the street

Users of "stationary" showers sooner or later come to the conclusion that the waterskin for water needs to be replaced with a tank: 6-12 liters is not enough for one person, but definitely not enough for a family. Now we have an outdoor shower, and there is a drain problem. Usually it is solved by lowering water down a slope or a gutter into a flower bed, on the basis that the flowers are not eaten. But from the point of view of respect for nature, this is, of course, wrong. And the earth, if the shower is often used, can turn sour, and then the whole flower bed will disappear. Still, it’s better to choose the time, on the lower edge of the sewer slope (usually this is the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house), mold a catcher from cement, and bury 40 mm PVC in the ground sewer pipe to the sewer. For the one described above, one 3rd pipe is enough; its slope is needed 4-10 cm / m.

If you want to quickly and easily replace the curtain with something more impressive, then the same arched pipe on the wall will help out. How the simplest one with rigid sheathing is made from a booth with a curtain is schematically shown in fig. Within the simplified blind area of the building, only 60 cm wide, it turns out to be quite comfortable (passages 45 cm each, a semicircular washing room in terms of 60x120 cm) and a completely unpeepable booth. The material of the cladding and fences is any, sufficiently rigid and allowing some bending. Polycarbonate is best; it will be discussed further. In this case, the fence of the labyrinthine entrance can be bent, getting a completely elegant extension.

shower in the garden

However, there is no need to rush to dig and attach: there is another simple option - a garden shower. This is a cabin on a light frame with a soft opaque lining, see fig. Its highlight is that the cabin is put in a new place on each visit, or rearranged once a week. It is enough to carry it 2-3 m away from the previous one, and the local ecology will fully tolerate the increased flow.

Capital

A capital shower differs from a simple cabin not only in that it stands on a foundation; it, as we will see below, may not be. There must be a dressing room in the capital shower room, although exhibitionism in certain circles is now, if not the norm, then certainly fashion. However, when washing, it is not necessary to demonstrate models of swimsuits, coupled with graceful forms or a relief torso, as shown in advertising shots.

Washing completely without clothes is necessary primarily for sanitary and hygienic reasons. The reason is dust in the fabric and scars of clothing. Having become sour, and even in contact with a wet body, it can cause skin diseases just in those places where they are least wanted. According to the rules of field work in countries that make extensive use of seasonal migrant agricultural workers, i.e. unaccustomed to dig in the ground, after the shift, having washed, it is imperative to wear clean underwear. Outerwear can be left working, but underwear - only fresh. In any case, it is uncivilized to be like the ancient nomads, for whom dirt up to a centimeter thick is not yet dirt, and then it falls off by itself.

How a shower with a dressing room should be arranged is shown in fig; dimensions - in cm. A curtain protects clothes from splashes, and a lattice, wooden or made of propylene pipes on self-tapping screws, protects shoes from getting wet, see below. The curtain in this case is more suitable from the film - a tarpaulin that is not blown by the breeze will dry for a long time, and if it is not propylene, but cotton, then it may soak.

Note: for people of average height and build, so that, bending over the dropped soap, not to knock out the door and not break the walls with the fifth point, the size of the washing room in the plan can be reduced to 80x100 cm. Then the entrance, where the curtain hangs, will be a large side.

All in one

The change house in the country does not play the same role as at the construction site and field work. In any case, the cesspool should be carried away from housing as far as the conditions on the site allow. And to have a meal, since you have already fled from the bustle of the city, is more pleasant and useful in the free air. Therefore, a kitchen with a veranda is often included in the composition of a country change house, along with a shower and a toilet.

The limiting, if I may say so, schemes for the arrangement of summer cottages are shown in fig. The left one is the simplest, 1.8 x 1 m, on concrete blocks without a foundation. Toilet - powder closet or bio; the dressing room can be used as a shelter in case of bad weather. Appointment - temporary, for the period of construction of the house.

On the right is a permanent change house. The foundation is slab, see above. Walls - from aerated concrete 75 mm + 12 mm on each side for finishing. The roof is flat sloping slate. As a refuge, if there are a lot of people, a large shower room can also be used; the size of the kitchen allows you to build or put a wood-burning stove. It is built, with the average skill of the master and the presence of an assistant, over the weekend, except for the technological break for the curing of concrete and the time for finishing work.

Note joke: do not rush to build this, otherwise who knows when hands will reach a real house.

In the house

A country shower in a house, since it is in a residential area, must meet all the requirements of sanitation and hygiene. This is a separate topic, some features in relation to the cottage will be discussed later in the course of the presentation.

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

The floor in the country shower is made of wood; capital, as in big house too laborious and expensive. In a cabin with dimensions up to 1.5x1.5 m, if a tongue-and-groove board is taken for flooring, logs are not needed. If the cabin is not square, the deck boards are cut to the size of the short side, so it will be stronger.

So that the tree does not rot from moisture, it, of course, needs to be processed. In our time, this can be done without complex and time-consuming operations such as scalding with bitumen, two-layer painting with oil zinc or titanium white, etc. The preparation of boards for the cabin floor is reduced, after sawing to size, to a double treatment with a water-polymer emulsion; the second treatment can be done one hour after the first.

Then - drying. At temperatures above 22 in the shade and drying in direct sunlight, the boards will be ready for further processing in the evening if processed in the morning; at 15 degrees and drying in the shade - by the morning of the next day.

After drying, the wood is impregnated with any wood biocide. It is only necessary to read on the package whether the preparation is intended for impregnation under pressure, this is not suitable. It is desirable to impregnate in the sun in warm weather, allowing the boards to warm up for an hour or two.

After 3-4 hours after impregnation, acrylic varnish can be applied in 2 layers. The first will dry up in the evening, then you can varnish again. The next morning the floor can be laid. So, if you pick a nice day, a floor that lasts at least 10 years can be done in a weekend, and there's still time left.

Pallet

Shower trays, if you don't already know it, are low and high. The first fit into a cutout or recess in the floor, and the second is actually a standing bath: they are installed on legs and are equipped with a screen. Those and others come in sizes from 800x800 to 1580x1580mm, straight and angular, rounded or faceted, as well as round, oval and complex shapes. Manufactured from acrylic or enameled sheet steel. The former are more expensive and more durable; the second is cheaper.

For a cottage with a separate shower on the territory, a straight low shower tray is needed, see the figure on the right. The most popular size and material is steel 1000x1000 mm. Its advantages:

Ease of installation and sealing: a sausage of construction foam is applied along the contour of the cutout and immediately, until it has hardened, a pallet is laid; squeezed out excess foam is removed.
Saving wood and labor: by making the cabin support frame (see below) the width of the inside in outer size pallet baths, get rid of the flooring of most of the floor. It is enough to upholster the top of the frame with scraps of boards so that the pallet does not end up in a hole.
Cheapness: with a relatively low intensity of use of a country shower, a steel pallet with careful use will last at least 15 years.
Persistence in summer conditions: acrylic pallets in summer cottages do not withstand the estimated service life, because they are afraid of abrasive wear with sand, from which you can’t get anywhere outside the city.

Note: if the shower is with a dressing room, you can take a pallet 800x1000, see above. If in the country there are people with a corpulence above average, then the best would be a pallet 1200x1200

The country shower room in the house requires an already high pallet. The reason is that the cutout will weaken the floor, unless it is formed according to the full pattern. Yes, and then the mortising and concrete work will take a lot of time and effort, plus beat the channel for the sewer. Suddenly, the house has not yet been built, it is also not necessary to lay a low pallet in a project with a wooden floor: the lag installation step turns out to be too large for flooring of this size.

It is more profitable to purchase a high pallet complete with a cabin and a screen. Then it is better to take a corner shower: a shower corner of the same overall dimensions takes much less space in a small room usable area and it turns out to be even more convenient than a straight shower.

As for the installation, it is desirable to do it yourself. Firstly, the departure of the master out of town will be too expensive, his day disappears, and in a day he can install up to 3 cabins, if not more. Secondly, the water supply and runoff in the country are almost always non-standard, which will be even more expensive. Therefore, how to install a shower cabin with a high tray yourself, see the video below.

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

And the following is about the intricacies of precisely the corners:

In addition, before buying, you will need to familiarize yourself with the company instructions, because. installation methods for showers from different manufacturers are somewhat different.

Lattice

In the locker room, a grate under your feet is a must so that your shoes do not get wet. In a washing room with a low tray, a grate above it is also highly desirable, because. due to the lack of a threshold, the risk of slipping and crashing when entering the pallet is increased.

Usually the lattice is made of wood from slats from 30x30 to 100x40 boards. The preparation of wood is the same as for the floor, but instead of varnishing, if funds allow, it is desirable to cover the grate with an acrylic compound for repairing bathtubs, then its resistance to wear by shoe soles will increase significantly. Yes, and for the floor, coating with a compound will not be superfluous; in this case, the pallet can not be sealed with foam, the thick mixture will tighten the gap.

The best, and if you take into account the price of varnish, then a cheaper grill is obtained from PP pipes assembled on self-tapping screws. Pipes are needed 1/2 "; installation step - 1.5 outer diameter. The pitch of the crossbars from the same pipe is 300-400 mm. There is a little trick here: after assembling the grating, they launch a little at a time into all the gaping ends polyurethane foam so that the grate inside is not sour from dampness.

Tank

The shower tank in the country house must be equipped with a sanitary drain with a shut-off valve, indicated in brown in fig. It is placed at the lowest point of the vessel, and the source is made flush with the bottom. Before a long break in use (at least for a week), the tank is completely emptied through the drain. It is advisable to regularly, with the same frequency, drain the sludge and with constant use. Please note that in the country the probability of getting spores and eggs of unwanted microorganisms into the tank is several times higher - orders of magnitude higher than in a city apartment. The author knows the case when in the shower tank were found ... crucian piglets. They apparently fed on the larvae of mosquitoes, which swarmed there.

The second condition is that the selective pipe must be placed higher so that it splashes from the watering can pure water, not trash. Finally, if there is water heating in the tank, its thermosiphon circulation must also occur, otherwise most of the heater power will go to waste. That is, the hot water inlet should be as high as possible.

If the tank is powered from the water supply, then it needs a float valve and an overflow with a cross-sectional area of \u200b\u200bat least 2 of those of the supply pipe. Sufficient clearance is needed above the float so that it does not rest against the tank lid, without locking the water supply to the end. For such a case, a tank diagram with recommended dimensions is shown on the left in fig.

For a tank filled manually, the layout of the pipes changes, because. the water level in it decreases during use. Its diagram is shown on the right in Fig. An indispensable condition is that the hot water supply should be located at least a little (5-7 mm at least) above the selection source, and the mouth of the supply pipe should be moved away from the outlet source; selective is located approximately in the middle between them. It is advisable to drain the sludge from such a tank immediately after each emptying so that the sediment does not clog the water heater.

What is he from?

Ready-made shower tanks different size, containers fully fitted with fittings are commercially available in a wide range. But, since our task is to implement everything entirely with our own hands, then we will see how to make the tank ourselves.

The most common tanks of country showers are made from barrels laid on their side; then it is convenient to place a drainage system, and the flow of water into the sludge becomes minimal. In this case, a wide filling and inspection hatch is cut out in a 200-liter steel barrel and through it, after welding the nozzles, the container is painted from the inside with yacht acrylic enamel or the same bath repair compound. An outdated long way - primed with a rust primer and painted with iron minium in oil.

Plastic barrels do not require preparation from the inside, but the problem of sealing the joints arises: almost nothing sticks to polyethylene and polypropylene, and it is impossible to connect by soldering, like water pipes. Fortunately, plastic barrels come with wide mouths, through which it is possible to install threaded fittings M12-M16 with a flange and a rubber gasket, and outside - also with a gasket and a washer; everything is tightened with a nut. So that the pipe does not turn out with thermal deformations, the diameter of the flange and washer must be from 3 outer diameters of the fitting, but not less than 40 mm.

Note: an alternative method - sealing with silicone - does not justify itself, for season 2-3 the joints leak.

About the tank from the old washer

It's no secret that many country showers have tanks from unusable old washing machines. Their capacity is small, for 2-3 washings hastily, but otherwise they are very good: they do not rust, drainage is automatically obtained from the previous drain pipe, and the input-output of the rest is easy to carry out through the opening for the activator, there is already a stamping for the gasket and holes for fasteners. By covering such a tank with glass on silicone (preferably acrylic), we get effective solar water heating (see below), because, repeatedly reflecting from the internal shiny walls, the solar radiation is almost completely absorbed by water.

Cabin

Grillage

The cabin support frame is most often made of wood; in the conditions of suburban operation, it loses strength more slowly than a thin-walled (1.5-2.5 mm) metal profile. The channel, of course, will last longer, but it will cost more. It is more suitable for welded structures, see above.

As for wood, a 100x100 or even 60x60 timber is suitable for a light cabin, and 150x150 for capital showers. Wood processing is generally the same as for the floor, only instead of varnishing it is impregnated twice or thrice with heated bituminous mastic. In combination with a water-polymer emulsion, this will provide a durability of at least 12 years; WPE, penetrating deeply into the pores of wood, makes them unsuitable for the germination of mold spores.

How high?

The rise of the grillage above the ground, and the corresponding protrusion of the foundation piles, is calculated as the sum of 200-250 mm for ventilation, plus the depth of the pallet tub, plus the technological height of the siphon and another 50-70 mm of stock. So, for a low pallet, this will be 320-450 mm, i.e. need 2-3 more steps at the entrance.

frame

A wooden shower is assembled, as well as - on load-bearing poles, only the problems of the roof disappear: it either does not exist at all, or it is simply sloping. The frames of the walls are reinforced with diagonal braces, one per side, from a 100x40 board or its own, spread in half lengthwise, i.e. 50x40, and installed flat. The latter option saves material, but takes up space inside the cab.

A professional pipe from 25x25x1.5 to 40x40x2 usually goes to the metal frame. Gather profile frame for welding, primed and painted. Thin-walled galvanized profiles are cheaper and easier to assemble - on self-tapping screws - but they do not last long, this material is not intended for outdoor use at all.

The best material for a shower frame is 1/2″ and 3/4″ polypropylene water pipes. The assembly scheme is the same as for wood: frame and diagonal. In this case, it is not required to solder the plastic, it is enough to select standard connectors so that the pipe enters them more tightly, and assemble them on self-tapping screws. In the shower, phosphated (black) ones hold better. Self-tapping screws diameter - 4.2 mm; length - 1-1.5 mm shorter than the outer diameter of the connector, so that the tip does not protrude and scratch.

sheathing

In general, any sheet finishing materials for outdoor use are suitable for sheathing a shower: corrugated board, plastic lining, siding, polycarbonate, the top row in rice; they can be attached to any frame either with standard fasteners, or, if the frame is propylene, with brackets and clamps.

Of all the sheathing materials, polycarbonate stands out. Its main advantage is a self-heating shower made of polycarbonate. Features of the interaction of cellular polycarbonate with sunlight are such that an increased energy density of infrared (thermal, IR) radiation is created inside the cabin. Simply put, a kind of warm cocoon appears, even if the shower is without a roof and with a wide ventilation gap at the bottom. Cellular polycarbonate was originally developed to cover greenhouses and greenhouses.

The shower cabin is sheathed on all sides, cramped, i.e. the area of its glazing is large relative to the volume, and tomatoes are not grown in it in winter. Therefore, the cheapest sheet of the 2R structure with a thickness of 4 mm from the most alternative manufacturer is suitable for shower sheathing. You should not be afraid of peeping: especially for showers, milky, non-translucent, polycarbonate is produced.

The second important factor is that a honeycomb sheet, if it is oriented vertically with internal channels and bent, acquires the properties of a prestressed structure (PNC): high strength and rigidity. That is, a very strong and light round cabin can be made on a frame from only 2 hoops, upper and lower, bent from PP pipe. The hoops will also be prestressed and add a lot of overall strength.

Finally, by tightly winding the sheet to the curvilinear template and heating for 20-30 hours to 70-80 degrees, the bend of the sheet can be fixed. This technique is often used by designers; in particular also for original frameless showers, see fig. on right.

The good old wood, pre-treated, as well as for the floor, and even raw, at least in the form of wattle, is also widely used for showers, the bottom row in fig. above. Its advantages are accessibility, ease of processing, and for capital showers under the roof - wood holds heat well. Heat loss through wood paneling from a forty board less than through a brick to half a brick.

Note: it is undesirable to use laminated and modified wood materials for sheathing showers - plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, MDF - they delaminate.

fittings

A garden garden shower is distinguished from an ordinary shower primarily by a shower head (spout, diffuser): its design includes a control valve, see fig. If there is hot water separately in the country house, then this one is not suitable - diffusers with a regular two-way valve are not on sale. However, it is easy to make a watering can with a valve yourself, it does not have any fundamental features. Other shut-off valves - any ordinary one, but pipelines are easier and cheaper to make flexible, from a reinforced garden hose.

Heating and heating

Now let's finally figure out what a warm shower is. In capital showers, as mentioned above, heating the washing room will ensure that the return flow from the tank to the water heater passes through the heating register, see fig. For constant heating of residential premises, this scheme is utter heresy, but in the soul it is quite efficient without loss of overall efficiency.

The cheapest and fastest water heating is provided by a low-power flow gas boiler or, if bottled gas, an electric boiler. We will leave one and the other, because. it is impossible to make them in accordance with safety requirements outside of industrial conditions: a heating element with grounding is only a base, automatic temperature control is also needed, emergency from boiling up, emptying, overheating of the heating element due to scale buildup or sedimentation, and some other necessary little things.

Without heat exchanger

The easiest way, than from time immemorial and used by summer residents, is to heat water with the Sun. But the well-known bitumen-drenched tank is not the best solution; the fact is that bitumen or simple black (not selective) paint is black only in visible light, and IR reflects well.

2 ways of primitive solar water heating are shown in fig. on right. The first (left pos.) uses the fact that water itself actively absorbs IR and ultraviolet (UV). The latter carries a lot of energy, but you need a well-transmitting UV tank, i.e. expensive acrylic. In the other, on the right pos. the own heat capacity of the hose is used: when the water flows, it gives it the accumulated heat, so it is possible to get more warm water than it was originally in the volume of the pipe.

With register and pot

Direct heating of water is bad because it depends on the weather and season: clouds have come running - the water is cold, and you can get hot only in the very heat, when a little warm is enough. For good water heating, not only in warm weather and not only in clear weather, a water heater for a shower must, firstly, somehow collect solar radiation, the energy density of which is relatively low, and transfer it to water, the heat capacity of which is relatively large. An indispensable condition in order to “sew” these requirements is thermosyphon or forced circulation of water in the system, i.e. a heat exchanger is needed, and how to heat it is a second matter.

A simple heat exchange register is a coil (on the left in the figure) or a U-shaped elbow made of copper or aluminum thin-walled tube. It can be laid flat with an inclination, in the middle there; then the hot side must be raised above the cold side by at least the value of the inner diameter of the tube, otherwise internal convection may develop, boiling up and bursting even with a relatively small influx of energy.

In some cases, it is more convenient to have a heat exchanger in the form of a sealed vessel, on the right in Fig. The principle of "theromosiphonism" is observed here by the fact that the outlet (hot) pipe is located as high as possible above the cold one. In this case, sealing is needed complete, without the slightest leak!

From the stove

The hot water register can be built into a country heating and cooking stove, but this is already a question of how the stoves are arranged, and by and large, the stove doesn’t care where the hot water goes then. A solar oven looks much more interesting in terms of heating water for a shower. In our latitudes for cooking, it is not very suitable, but the shower will provide hot water and the simplest (see Fig.) In the spring and autumn in cloudy weather.

The pattern of such a stove is shown on the next. rice. Material - any foil, even cardboard. Please note that the reflector is certainly metal, it reflects the entire spectrum of radiation, and household mirrors only the visible part. For IR, clouds are much more transparent, while UV carries a lot of energy even in small quantities.

The scheme of a stationary solar oven is more complicated, but much more efficient, is shown in the following. rice. The reflector is assembled from pieces (you can cut off) galvanized on silicone. Fragments of the reflector are installed one by one, adjusting (adjusting) so that the light spot lies on the bottom of the heated vessel; already installed and adjusted mirrors are still covered with something. For this furnace and the heat exchanger described before it, a compact one is required; it is placed instead of cooking utensils.

Panels

Solar panels are not that complicated and do not require any alignment. These are, in fact, blackened from the inside and glazed flat boxes or other containers in which a strong greenhouse effect is created; a coil is installed inside such a mini-greenhouse, the diagram on the left in fig. Modern solar panels use truly space technologies, and some models in winter on a cloudy day at -20 outside give water to the system at a temperature of +70.

We do not need such super-efficiency, it is enough for us to heat 50-100 liters of water from +15 to +40 in 2-4 hours. The most unpretentious design, like those shown on the trail, will also cope with this task. poses of the same fig. And in fig. below (on the top position - with an installation diagram and a use case for heating a house) - drawings of home-made solar panels, comparable in efficiency to individual industrial designs. The first panel is completely homemade; the heat exchanger is soldered from a copper tube. In the one below, a radiator from an old unusable refrigerator went to him; the dimensions of the box are adjusted to the cash.

And in the dark?

If the kitchen in the country is gasified, anyway, from a mains or a cylinder, then you can heat water for a shower for nothing at any time of the year, in any weather, day or night. How? Due to waste heat (in essence - own heat loss) gas stove. To do this, the burners are circled with a copper coil from a 6-10 mm tube, as shown in Fig; This method was invented back in Stalin's times, when the people heard that somewhere up there, at the top, a curiosity appeared - hot water in the tap.

To tilt the heat exchanger, pieces of soft wire are wound around its hot tube, and their whiskers are used either as legs or as hooks. Remember: the heating is intense, without tilting the coil boils and bursts instantly! It is also necessary to withstand other dimensions so as not to burn or dry out the flexible hoses connecting the coil to the tank. What else needs to be remembered is that the slope of the hot tube should be greater than the cold one, and the coil heats up well only if the burning burners are occupied by cooking utensils. That is, it makes no sense to burn gas idly, you need to heat water during cooking. As a rule, in an hour of cooking dinner, a 50-liter tank heats up to 40-45 degrees.

Finally

Finally, let's mention one curiosity - a supposedly hydromassage shower. On fig. on the right is shown simplest model(the price, by the way, is not unpretentious - about 300 euros), but installations are produced with 6 and even 10 diffusers, loudly referred to as nozzles in advertising brochures.

Such scents are only a tribute to fashion, if not inventions of marketers of the consumer society; simply a split. For a real hydromassage, it is necessary to reduce muscle tone in conditions of hydroweightlessness, which cannot be without a bath with water.

home > Agriculture

Warm shower with a stove in the country. We create a warm shower in the country: we find out the technical points

The device and features of the summer shower

Preparatory stage: project drawings, dimensions

Heating selection

Necessary materials and tools

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower cabin with your own hands

The nuances of operating a country shower

Summer shower at your dacha

Shower equipment with water supply

Shower drain

Photo ideas on how to make a summer shower in the country

Drawing a project

Finished summer shower

Foundation

We build a frame

We install the tank and organize the water supply

Warming up the shower

Video

A photo

Do-it-yourself shower in the country: summer and winter options

Design features

Toptun - the most popular shower among summer residents

How to expand functionality?

Features of self-installation of various types

Construction stages

We make our own heated shower in the country

The device and features of the summer shower

Preparatory stage: project drawings, dimensions

Heating selection

Necessary materials and tools

Step-by-step instructions for building a shower cabin with your own hands

The nuances of operating a country shower

Summer shower for a summer residence

Choosing a place for a summer shower

What does all-weather mean?

child question

Country shower device

Base

When zero is not needed

Under plastic

Under the tree

Under the metal

Under the brick

cesspool

From theory to practice

More about shower with toilet

What will the shower be like?

Compact is not compact

Cabin on the street

shower in the garden

Capital

All in one

In the house

Floor, tray, grate

Floor

Pallet

Video: self-assembly and installation of a shower cabin

Lattice

Tank

What is he from?

About the tank from the old washer

Cabin

Grillage

How high?

frame

sheathing

fittings

Heating and heating

Without heat exchanger

With register and pot

From the stove

Panels

And in the dark?

Finally

We also recommend