Greenhouse from 20 profiles by hand. Greenhouse from a profile pipe with dimensions

If you are a happy owner of a summer cottage, then it is simply a sin to spend money on buying store-bought vegetables and herbs. Accelerate harvest time and.

To make a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands, you will have to spend a certain amount of time, money and physical effort, but in the end, all efforts will pay off handsomely during the operation of this unique design.

Why profile pipe?

When choosing a material for construction - a profile pipe will be the most optimal solution.

You can naturally use wooden slats, but you will have to use maximum protection measures for it, since this material is subject to decay, shrinkage and deformation.

The latter type does not have a particular advantage, it is just that it is most often used today out of habit, since glass was previously used to cover the greenhouse, which would be difficult to cover the arched structure.

And the innovative and elastic material - polycarbonate makes it possible to block greenhouses of any kind.

For the main frames of the frame of the future greenhouse, it is recommended to take a 4x2 cm pipe. For horizontal connecting elements, you can use a 2x2 cm profile.

If you want to make a high-quality frame of such a design as a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, the drawings must be made. Such a move will allow you to choose the right dimensions and thereby eliminate large losses of metal during cutting parts.

Making a metal profile frame with your own hands is not the cheapest pleasure, therefore it is recommended to carry out the calculation in such a way that no more than one standard pipe measuring 6.05 m is used to manufacture the frame.

The optimal size for a gable structure is calculated as follows. If the height is taken as 1.7 m, then 3.4 m of pipe will be required for two frames, after which another 2.65 m of the profile remains.

When taking into account the slope of the roof, the width of one frame should be 2.25 m. The main thing is to make sure that after overlapping the frame, 10 cm of material remains on each side on the side overhangs.

If desired, you can start making a greenhouse using semicircular frames. Here, the dimensions of the structure will be large in comparison with the gable, which increases the total usable internal area.

But it is worth considering that the independent manufacture of an arched greenhouse from a square pipe involves the use of such an apparatus as a pipe bender. Thanks to him, it will be possible to bend the profile with high quality, as you need.

It is worth considering, because the pricing policy of such a device is very high, and not everyone can make a pipe bender using improvised means.

There are several ways to bend a profile without using a special apparatus, but such methods will not give a perfect bend and can lead to deformation of expensive material.

Therefore, in order to avoid such difficulties, it is advisable to opt for a gable type of home greenhouse.

Selection and laying of the foundation

Here you can choose several options for the base from wooden sleepers to the grillage of screw piles.

The most optimal option is the choice of a shallow monolithic foundation, which is laid with your own hands not deep on one "bayonet" of a shovel.

Before making the foundation, anchors are installed on all sides for fastening profile components. When the concrete mixture hardens to the anchors, 4x2 cm profiles can be welded, which will become a reliable basis for installing the future greenhouse frame.

A conventional strip foundation can also be used for a building, it will increase the reliability of the structure and its durability.

Video - foundation installation

The process of laying the foundation with your own hands involves a large contribution of physical labor, the availability of free time and accuracy, which must be observed in every action.

Therefore, it is recommended that, before starting construction, start making a drawing of the future structure, indicating all the dimensions from which you should not deviate, in order to avoid unpleasant consequences during subsequent operation.

A greenhouse with a house during the construction process does not require the use of a pipe bender. To avoid the formation of possible irregularities, it is advisable to collect everything on a straight asphalt site.

Do-it-yourself frame installation

Greenhouses made of polycarbonate and professional pipes should only be covered end-to-end, while it is worthwhile to carefully ensure that the front side of the material looks outward of the structure.

The end parts of polycarbonate sheets must be treated with a silicone-based sealant that protects them. Count on the fact that the length of the coating should be 10 cm more than the height of the profile in order to form a slope.

At the upper joint of the roof of a metal greenhouse from a professional pipe, they are covered with a profile, which is attached to self-tapping screws along longitudinal ties.

The installation of polycarbonate on the door and the window is carried out according to the same principle, the main thing is to make sure that its size does not interfere with the operation of these elements.

On the modern construction market there is a large selection of different tools that can extend the service life of a metal frame and speed up the process of its construction.

Having delved into the topic and the nuances of the process of building buildings from shaped pipes, it becomes clear that a high-quality drawing, the manufacture of each element and the frame coating technology are of equal importance.

When making a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands, you need to have minimal knowledge in architecture and working with metal elements.

One wrong step or calculation can cross out all the work, and the right decision will lead to an excellent final result.

We build a house - we start with a drawing, we build a garage - first a project and a drawing. And why is the greenhouse worse, is it the same structure as any other? Therefore, the drawing in this case is mandatory, in addition, we want to tell you one secret - profile pipes are used specifically for the construction of stationary greenhouses.

That is why it is better to think over everything once, graphically and build according to the proposed drawings, than then remake, adjust, in general, pay extra for your own mistakes and blunders.

What do we consider when designing

The scheme of a greenhouse from a profile pipe should take into account the following points:

The material from which the skeleton of the structure will be erected. Here you can also add material that will go to the shelter of the greenhouse itself;

Information!
Looking ahead, I would like to say that the profile product involves coating with polycarbonate sheets or glass, cover is extremely rare.
Firstly, the pipe is a serious structure, and the frame from it turns out to be powerful and non-separable.
The frame remains at its post for the winter, but the film must be removed; secondly, the film coating is short-lived and it is more reasonable to use it with lighter materials, for example, with PVC pipes or reinforcing bars, (the price of which will be clearly lower than the price of basic products).
But if you use the film in the summer, it is better to close the metal base, either with newspapers or with a cloth base in order to avoid the temperature effect of the heated metal on a rather thin film sheet.

Frame type. Greenhouse projects from a profile pipe offer at least five types of frames;
Foundation type. There are three basic types, although it is for frames made of profiled material that a tape or piles with a grillage will be preferable.

Interesting to know!
Of course, we will analyze the foundations, but I want to say that the base in the form of a wooden box for metal frames in the form of profile products is practically not used, a wooden independent box is rarely used for a frame made of a 20x20 mm pipe, but this is more an exception than a rule.

If everything is clear with the materials, let's start designing

Arched design is the most popular.

But the drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe are of five types:

Arched structures. Semicircular roof slopes are good, but it’s quite problematic to bend a 20x40 product with an arc, most likely, this service will have to be ordered and paid separately.
Gable skeletons - a hut with a transparent roof and walls, that's the whole project of a greenhouse from a profile pipe.
Building with a polygonal roof. Drawings of a greenhouse from a profile pipe suggest bringing the roof structure as close as possible to a hemisphere, and without bending the material. In this case, the roof slope consists of five fragments.
Wall frame. This design involves the installation of stationary greenhouses and winter gardens. And although the frame itself is quite simple in relation to its counterparts, the labor costs for the construction of such a greenhouse will be much greater, since most often it is a stationary greenhouse for year-round use with everything that follows from this.
Pyramidal shape. A drawing of a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe suggests the shape of two pyramids interconnected at the bases, while the lower pyramid is cut off by 2/3. This is quite an interesting, but still experimental form of the greenhouse.

We will install the frame on the base, it is important on which

To install the skeleton, supports are needed, and the more serious the frame, the stronger the foundation.

For a heavier frame skeleton made from a 20x40 mm pipe, two types of foundation are applicable:

Monolithic tape. This is a fairly solid foundation, capable of holding deadly and more powerful structures than a pipe skeleton. When erecting it, it is necessary to remember the following rules: the foundation for year-round use must be at least 20 cm wide and deep to the depth of soil freezing, must be insulated.
The tape for the fortress itself is reinforced, while the reinforcement in the corners is reinforced with additional metal pins or elements, the entire reinforcement team is fastened to each other, forming a three-dimensional skeleton. The tape comes out of the ground, forming a base, at least 30 cm;

Piles. There can be reinforced concrete monolithic, and prefabricated brick, as well as metal, which are installed using special equipment. Each element is erected according to the principle one at a time in the corners and then every 1.5-2 meters.
All piles are interconnected by a grillage, which can be made in the form of a shallow foundation tape, or it can be in the form of a metal channel. Docking of the metal frame and the concrete base occurs with the help of anchors, metal to metal can be fixed by welding, or by bolts.

Advice!
Regardless of the basis on which you install the frame, waterproofing must be installed between the base and the structure.
You can use roofing material and bitumen, heated to a wet state, for a strip foundation assembled from a brick or reinforced concrete surface.
A metal channel or a wide square pipe must be additionally coated with an anti-corrosion compound, and then simply lay the roofing material.

For lightweight structures, you can use a wooden beam frame, or you can use the products themselves as bases, extending 50 cm and being a continuation of the main vertical frame ribs that are dug in the ground.

Finally

Any structure is assembled with your own hands and quickly enough, you may have to tinker with the foundation, but it all depends on how you are going to operate your building, that's the whole instruction. (see also the article). The video in this article also prepared its own view on the topic.

Today, the construction of greenhouses from a profile pipe can be found on almost any personal plot. And it is not surprising, because the building material has features that distinguish it from ordinary metal pipes and wood.

In this article, we will consider the advantages of greenhouses from the profile, tell you how to choose the material. It also contains a step-by-step guide to the design and construction of an arched greenhouse from a profiled pipe.

Advantages of a professional pipe for greenhouses, the choice of type, size

Constructions of various types are built from this material, it all depends on the wishes and needs of the owner of the plot.

Advantages of metal profile greenhouses

Significant strength of a home-made greenhouse from a profile pipe with a relatively small weight. This effect is achieved due to the geometry of the section - square or rectangular. Four ribs provide sufficient rigidity of the structural elements. An ordinary round pipe comparable in strength with approximately the same cross section (eg 30 mm) will weigh much more. A greenhouse made of 25x25 mm galvanized pipe is able to withstand high snow / wind loads, regardless of what it is covered with.
When mounting, the planes of the elements have a large contact area. The result is high strength joints. This is especially important if you plan to cook a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands - the design is very durable.
There are different ways to connect the parts of the greenhouse to each other. These are welding, self-tapping screws, screws, clamps-crabs. They can be used alone or in combination with each other.
The profile pipe is already sold with an anti-corrosion coating. After the construction of the greenhouse is completed, only the places of cuts / joints of parts will have to be processed.
Greenhouses from a professional pipe can be mounted on the foundation or without it.

Greenhouse with a house made of a square profile pipe, covered with polycarbonate

Note:the listed advantages of a profile pipe allow it to be used for the construction of greenhouses of any area and geometry. There are no restrictions, you just need to choose the right type of section and the size of the profiles.

How to choose a profile pipe for a greenhouse

Manufacturing material. On sale there are steel painted pipes and galvanized. The first ones are cheaper, but the coating collapses over time, the exposed steel will begin to rust. These problems do not threaten a galvanized profile pipe for greenhouses; a structure made of it will last about 20 years. The highest quality material should be marked GOST 14918-80.
Section, wall thickness. If a small greenhouse is being built, then the material is selected, as they say, by eye. For example, a small greenhouse made of a profile pipe 20x40 mm, wall thickness - 3 mm. The values here can vary up or down. To select pipes for a large-sized building, you should look into the SNiP, namely sections P-23-81 and 2.01.07-85.

Note:greenhouses with an area of 10 m 2 or more cannot be built without preliminary calculations using SNiP. An improperly designed structure can warp or collapse under its own weight or snow/wind loads.

To make a greenhouse from metal pipes with your own hands, you need to choose the right section of profiles

Design and manufacture of a greenhouse from a profile pipe

Careful drawing up of drawings, correct calculations is the key to trouble-free construction.

Design, drawing up drawings

First of all, we decide for ourselves what type of structure we need: one- or two-slope, arc, arched, with a foundation, without it ... Next, we sketch out an approximate sketch of what we need. It makes sense to look for photos of suitable designs on the Internet and draw based on them, but with your own edits. On the sketch, we mark the approximate dimensions of the structure, the location of transoms, doors.

When choosing the size and shape of the greenhouse, the following should be considered:

The location of trees and tall perennials in the immediate vicinity of the future building.
The location of the construction site relative to the residential / country house.
Types of crops that will be grown indoors.
Wind and snow loads in the region. The higher they are, the steeper the slopes of the greenhouse should be.

The lower part of the greenhouse frame from a profile pipe, drawing - sketch

At the stage of drawing up a sketch, only approximate parameters are set: width, length, height. When drawing up drawings of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with dimensions, one cannot make mistakes - everything must be accurate to the millimeter. During drawing, be sure to set the dimensions of each part, even if they are duplicated. You can see how this is done in the next drawing.

Pay attention:when the drawing is ready, we calculate the amount of consumables - we make an estimate for purchases. Usually the data is displayed on the same sheet, top right or bottom right.

We make a greenhouse from a profile pipe with our own hands, a drawing with sizing

There should be enough projections of the drawings so that the builder understands exactly which part goes where. In this case, the connection nodes of the elements must be drawn separately. This is what we do with the frame of the greenhouse from the profile pipe, all the transoms and doors.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe, drawing the end part

Foundation installation

The foundation for the greenhouse, unless it is a thermos, is made of tape, with or without reinforcement, depending on the dimensions of the building. It should be closed, without breaks around the perimeter. Trench parameters:

Height - 40 cm.
Width - 40 cm.

We make a formwork-setting along the edge, it should protrude 20 cm from the ground. We fill the bottom of the trench with sand (5 cm), ramming, then gravel - 10 cm. Next, we lay the pre-tied armored belt. We fill everything with a sand-concrete mixture (3/1). We do demoulding after 4 days, then we proceed to further construction. An exception is massive greenhouses with an area of 15 m 2 or more. Here you have to wait for the foundation to reach full strength - 28 days.

Scheme of a greenhouse from a profile pipe, it is not difficult to install embedded parts for piping with your own hands

Note:before pouring concrete in the foundation trench, we expose and fix the embedded parts, on which the greenhouse trim from the profile pipe will subsequently be attached.

How to assemble a frame from a profile pipe with your own hands

First of all, we prepare the parts from which the greenhouse will be assembled. We cut the profile pipe, lay it out near the construction site so that everything is at hand. It is necessary to bend the arcs for the upper part. To do this, you will have to purchase or assemble a pipe bender with your own hands.

How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse, the video tells about self-assembly of a pipe bender and work on it

Construction begins with the installation of the strapping. It is attached to the mortgages installed when pouring the foundation. We fasten the profile pipe to the mortgages with screws. When tightening the fasteners, be guided by the building level - the strapping should not have distortions in the plane. We weld the joints of the elements.

Next is the installation of arches. If it is planned to strengthen their upper part, then we do it on the ground, on a flat area, also at the building level. We work with welding, screws or clamps-crabs. The arches are attached to the harness by welding or steel corners with self-tapping screws. After the entire length of the greenhouse is set, we assemble the end part.

How to weld a greenhouse from metal shaped pipes: arches are exposed after mounting the reinforcement of the upper part

Installation of polycarbonate

We begin to mount polycarbonate from the ends. We fasten the rectangular sheet into place, and then cut it to the shape of the frame - this is best done with an electric jigsaw. After we cover the remaining surfaces of the greenhouse from the metal profile. In no case do not overlap the covering material. Sheets must be tightly joined. For tightness, a split profile is installed in the joints.

Note:for fastening polycarbonate to greenhouses from a profile pipe, we use special thermal washers. They provide a tight connection between the covering material and the frame. In the process, we make sure that the fasteners enter the plastic strictly vertically.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands: a structure covered with polycarbonate

Inveterate summer residents often strive to install a reliable greenhouse or greenhouse on their site so that they can grow seedlings or get a crop much earlier. In this article, we will talk about how to make a greenhouse from a professional pipe with your own hands, so that it turns out to be reliable and durable.

Note that the choice in favor of steel profiled pipes is dictated primarily by their resistance to deformation and destruction, as well as the ability to withstand significant loads. Although the installation itself of such products requires some effort.

The initial stage of creating a greenhouse from profile pipes - drawing and selection of material

You can determine the exact amount of materials needed as accurately as possible if you first estimate the dimensions of the greenhouse from the profile pipe in the drawings, and also take into account the parameters of the manufactured products themselves.

Profiles with a section of 40 × 20 mm or 40 × 40 mm are optimal for creating a supporting structure. They are strong enough and have a wall thickness of 2 mm or more. At the same time, products with thinner walls, about 1-1.5 mm, can be used for horizontal screed - this will be enough.

The project of a greenhouse from a profile pipe can include several types of configurations:

a greenhouse attached to the main house, the roof of which has an asymmetric oval or shed shape;
a separate building with a gable roof;
arched greenhouse.

When calculating the number of purchased pipes, it is worth taking into account the measured length of pipe products available for sale - it is 6.05 meters.

Given this value, it is possible to make drawings of greenhouses from a profile pipe with dimensions of 3, 4, 6 or 12 meters in length, as well as 2, 3, 4 or 6 meters in width. The optimal dimensions of the greenhouse, in which two parallel beds are located, will be values within 3 × 3-6 meters, and if there are three beds, then - 4-6 × 3-12 meters. However, most often a drawing of a greenhouse from a profile pipe is drawn up based on the dimensions of 3 × 6 meters - this is the most convenient ratio.

But as for the height of the building, then it is necessary to take into account the individual parameters of the owner. As a rule, the ceiling should be located 30-40 cm higher than a person's height. That is, the height of the greenhouse can vary between 1.9-2.5 meters.

Another important factor in calculating the height of the greenhouse is the finishing material for the sheathing. In the case of ordinary film, this does not matter, but if you purchase polycarbonate, it is better if its size is enough to cover the height without trimming or extensions.

The standard length of a cellular polycarbonate sheet is 6 m, and if you use the circumference formula (L = π × D), you can calculate whether it is enough to cover an arched greenhouse.

So, for example, let's take the planned building height of 2 meters and substitute it into the formula:

L=3.14×4=12.56 meters.

Then half the length will be 12.56 / 2 \u003d 6.28 meters - this is not enough to completely cover the surface of the greenhouse, but an additional segment of 28 cm is required. Therefore, it is better to provide a greenhouse height within 1 9 meters.

Preliminary preparation for work

Before you start making a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, you should pay attention to some additional conditions for your site. In particular, the type of soil can be important. It is preferable to install a greenhouse on dry soil, where excess moisture does not accumulate, which can affect the supporting structures. It is optimal to install a greenhouse on sandy soils, in contrast to clayey soils prone to waterlogging.

The location of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points also matters. So, it is best that the long side is facing south so that as much sunlight as possible penetrates into the greenhouse, which will not be reflected from the polycarbonate sheets.

In order for the heat not to leave the greenhouse too quickly, and it was convenient to move in it, the front door is usually located in the end part. According to standards, the width of the door should be no narrower than 70-80 cm, but its height directly depends on the size of the greenhouse itself.

If you are planning to build a more or less capital greenhouse from a professional pipe, then you can additionally build a small corridor or vestibule in it. It will be possible to store tools and other trifles in it. In addition, such a space will allow you to keep warm when opening the door to the greenhouse itself.

The frame for the construction of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands must be placed on a strip or column foundation, the type of which will depend on the type of soil. In any case, debris must be removed from the foundation area and the top layer of soil removed.

The sequence of work in the construction of a greenhouse from a profile

In general, the entire process of building a greenhouse from profile pipes includes four main stages:

Markup.
Foundation pouring.
Frame assembly.
Sheathed in polycarbonate.

First, a place is planned for the future greenhouse from a profile pipe and wooden pegs are driven in along its perimeter, onto which a rope is pulled.

Next, start building the foundation. The frame structure made of a profile pipe, which will be transferred to the supports, is quite strong and not prone to deformation. Therefore, it is often enough for a greenhouse to have a columnar foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes.

The columnar foundation is poured like this:

holes are drilled in the ground at a certain distance from each other, the diameter exceeding the dimensions of the pipes;
actually, asbestos pipes are immersed in the resulting pits;
the gaps between the pipes and the soil are covered with filler and carefully rammed;
cement mortar is poured inside the pipe, making sure that there are no voids in it;

in the upper part of the poured pipe, a metal plate or a piece of reinforcement is immersed in concrete, which will serve as a hitch for the foundation with a frame structure.

Assembling the body from profile pipes begins with the end sections of the structure. The pipe sections are connected to each other by welding, using tees, angles, and also with the help of couplings. Welding seams are much stronger, and the structure is more stable. However, if you want to make the frame collapsible, then it is better to use couplings.

At the last stage, they begin to sheath the body with polycarbonate sheets. It is fixed with self-tapping screws with thermal washers so that moisture does not penetrate into the material cells.

Please note that when attaching polycarbonate, its cells must be located at an angle or vertically. The horizontal position will not allow moisture to drain and degrade the quality of the material.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from a profile pipe with a house, with a full-fledged gable roof, then in addition to the front door, you need to cut through the windows in it. Well, small arched greenhouses can only get by with a door.

How to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse in a "cold" way

Arched greenhouses made of profile pipes for summer cottages are the most stable and, at the same time, practical structures. Due to their streamlined shape, arched greenhouses are able to withstand strong gusts of wind and do not accumulate precipitation in winter. However, to create such a design, you must first bend the pipes (read: ""). In this case, there can be two options - contact specialists for professional help or do the work yourself using a pipe bender. Another alternative is to do the bending with your own hands using improvised means. To cope with the task as efficiently as possible, you need a radius template.

There can be two ways of cold bending of profile pipes - with or without a filler. If it is planned to assemble the body from profiles with a thickness of up to 10 mm, then pipe bending can be performed without filler. But for bending professional pipes with thicker walls, it is better to pour rosin or sand into them.

Alternatively, there is a bending method using a thick spring, the cross section of which will allow it to be pushed into the pipe cavity. The spring properties of such a device will make it possible to bend the pipes quite well, without changing the section of the profile at the bend.

Thus, there are two ways to bend profile pipes in a “cold” way:

use improvised means and mechanisms - bending plates and similar tools;
use a portable or manual factory pipe bender.

Rather primitive, but, nevertheless, an effective device for cold bending of profiles are bending plates with holes. Rods are placed in these recesses, which will serve as a stop when bending. The pipe is placed between two rods, which are installed in the slab at a distance of the deformation radius. Then they begin to bend the profile, moving from the center of the workpiece to its edges.

It should be noted that such a manual method of cold pipe deformation is quite laborious, and the result will depend on the effort expended on bending.

Method of bending profile pipes with preheating

The hot bending technique looks like this:

At the first stage, wooden plugs for the pipe are made in the form of pyramids. The length of such a workpiece should be 10 times greater than the width of its base, and the area of the wide part should be at least twice the pipe clearance.
When the workpiece fits the size of the pipe, small grooves are made in it on four sides, through which the gases generated when the pipe is heated will escape. The second stub does not need to be processed.
Next, the treated section of the pipe is pre-fired.
Any fine filler must be sifted through a fine sieve before filling into the pipe. So you get rid of large particles that can be imprinted on the surface of the pipe when heated. After that, very fine sand particles are removed using a 0.7 mm sieve so that they do not sinter when heated inside the pipe.
The prepared sand is calcined at 150℃.
On one side of the pipe, a blind plug without grooves is installed. On the other hand, a funnel is placed in the professional pipe, along which calcined sand is poured inside in small portions.
With periodic tapping of the walls, you can make sure that the sand is well compacted - the sound will be deaf. As soon as the pipe is completely filled with sand, a second plug with grooves is inserted.
The place of the future bend of the pipe is marked with chalk. After that, the pipe section must be securely fixed in a vice by placing it on the template. Please note that products with welded seams must be bent so that the junction is located on the side. But bending along the weld is not worth it.
By marking, they begin to warm the metal to red. When the material becomes soft enough, it is given the desired shape in one smooth and clear movement.

When the workpiece has cooled, the bend is compared with the template. With perfect work, you can pull out the plugs and pour sand out of the profile.

It is desirable that all hot bending work be carried out in one step. Each subsequent heating will lead to a loss of metal strength.

In conclusion, we note that, by and large, even novice builders can cope with the construction of a greenhouse for a summer residence from profile pipes. Regardless of its design, all major work will be carried out according to the general principle. The only differences may be the features of the landscape and the preferences of the owners, which will need to be taken into account during construction.

The question of how to weld a greenhouse is of interest to many summer residents and other land owners. The principle of welding domestic and industrial greenhouses is the same. The difference may be in the material and the degree of reinforcement of the structure, depending on the size.

The main advantage of joining profiles by welding is reliability. The bolted connection weakens over time, and the greenhouse loses its shape. Other benefits include:

a welded greenhouse from a profile has a large margin of safety, regardless of the size and weight of the structure. The cross section of a square of 20 mm is able to withstand heavy loads in wind and snow;
profile pipes have a larger welding area, so it’s enough just to weld the seam reliably, and not to weld the stiffener to further strengthen the joint.
when welding, taking into account deformations, heating and observing diagonals, the greenhouse is obtained without distortions, and it can be installed on the foundation or without it.

The advantage of profiles and the connection of parts by welding make it possible to manufacture greenhouses of any size and configuration. It is only necessary to choose the right section and the type of square, and calculate the design, taking into account the dimensions of the greenhouse.

Important Points

Welding must be carried out in protective clothing and gloves. Eyes and face are protected by a welding mask or shield.

All main parts are cooked in the lower position. For better rigidity, the joints after welding can be fixed by welding a steel scarf on the inside. This method allows you to securely fasten parts even with poor-quality welding of the main joints.

It is imperative to monitor the alignment of the standing parts, install the first ones in terms of level and securely fix them with spacers.

All elements of the greenhouse are welded with high-quality electrodes for structural steels. It is better to use ANO-24 or MP-3 with a diameter of 3 mm. Having completed the entire cycle of work with high quality and reliability, you get the opportunity to grow your favorite vegetables or flowers even in slight frosts.

Criteria for choosing a profile pipe

The choice of profile for welding depends on financial capabilities and the need for a more reliable greenhouse, but the basic rules are the same for everyone.

Painted, galvanized and untreated profile pipes are produced. The galvanized profile has a long service life and is not subject to corrosion. This is true, but not in the case of a connection by welding.

When welding, zinc burns out, and the metal at the junction is weakened. This place will rust in the same way as an ordinary raw pipe. It is the same with painted pipes, but the price of such products is much higher.

In the case of greenhouse welding, it is better to use raw material, and in addition, buy a can of soil and paint the metal structure after assembling the frame.

When building a small greenhouse, it is better to purchase shelves in a smaller size. For a greenhouse 6 m long, 2 m wide and 2 m high, a 25 mm wide pipe is enough. Profile wall thickness - 2 mm. This is the best option for small homemade structures.

Important. Before performing all work, including welding, it is necessary to calculate the number of profiles and consumables by completing a sketch of the greenhouse and determining its dimensions.

Choice of design form

The most common and affordable form of a greenhouse is a house with a gable roof. It is easy to perform and does not require additional equipment and welding costs.

All installation and welding work is carried out using hand power tools and welding equipment. But such a greenhouse has a smaller useful area of \u200b\u200bthe inner part.

Therefore, the most suitable form is arched. But this is a more complex design, requiring the use of rollers or a bending machine. You can also work manually, but for this you need to find a segment of a cylinder of large diameter.

The profile is covered with sand, which avoids deformation of the pipe. Then it is fixed in the middle of the base and the ends are bent. The work is very time consuming and does not ensure compliance with the dimensions of the arcs.

It is easier to contact specialists who will make the same arches on rollers in a minute. But this will require additional costs. Therefore, when they make a greenhouse with their own hands, they most often choose the shape of a house.

Dimensions and amount of material

Be sure to determine the length of the greenhouse, and calculate the number of main components of the frame. Arcs must be installed with an interval of no more than a meter.

With a length of 6 m, it will be necessary to make 7 arcs and sheathe them with jumpers for structural rigidity. The front wall must be equipped with a door and a window, and the rear wall requires the installation of only a window.

This is the simplest and most reliable design of a small greenhouse. The profile pipe is mainly supplied in lengths of 6010 mm. It is quite expensive, so the task is to reduce profile waste to a minimum.

The best solution would be the height of the pillars 1070 mm, the size of one roof slope 1120 mm, with a slope angle of 30 °. This method will avoid the cost of purchasing the main pipe.

It will be enough to put the 20th profile on the jumpers. Consider their number. On the roof, they fix the structure at the top of the arcs and in the middle of each slope. On the side - 2 on each side.

On the back we provide 2 jumpers. The front should be equipped with a hatch and a door. Based on this, we calculate the number of lashes of the auxiliary profile.

Now you need to decide on the foundation. If it is made concrete, segments of the main profile for embedded parts will be required. In the case of the manufacture of a mobile greenhouse, you will need to purchase a profile to secure the bottom of the greenhouse.

After purchasing a sufficient number of profiles and electrodes for welding, they proceed to perform the main work.

Preparatory work

The work is carried out in several stages. The most durable and reliable way will be the manufacture of a concrete foundation. To make it, you need to dig a trench along the perimeter to a depth of a shovel bayonet.

Then make a small sand cushion, mark out and hammer the mortgages under the racks into the ground. You will need to prepare a concrete solution and lay it in a trench.

It makes no sense to reinforce the foundation, the main thing is to make it even, without large drops and distortions. When pouring, pay attention to the vertical position of the embedded parts.

Manufacture and installation of standing parts

Greenhouse racks can be made from individual pieces of pipe, cut to size and with notched corners. But it is better to perform simple operations and simply bend them from a long whip. To do this, mark the middle of the whip, make an angle cut with a grinder and bend the pipe to the desired angle of 60 °.

Then 1700 mm are measured from the edges of the profile and cuts are made. Bend the profile inward to an angle of 30 °. Now it remains to boil the cutouts.

For large gaps, mortgages made of wire or electrodes are used. When welding, attention must be paid to observance of the diagonals and the correct horizontal arrangement of all planes.

To do this, it is better to weld on a flat surface. If the part turned out with a small "propeller" - it does not matter, it is easy to align it.

Next, assemble all 7 main parts. The front and back part is immediately done with lintels, vents and a door. These parts are installed first, fixing each in its place and welding to the mortgages.

The first standing parts should be set strictly according to the level, this will avoid distortions of the entire greenhouse structure. Having set them on the building level or plumb, they are fixed with the help of temporary struts.

Assembly

When the main racks of the greenhouse are fixed, they begin to install intermediate racks from the front side and tie them with stiffeners. For this, the standing parts are welded to the mortgages in the foundation. The parts cut to size are unfastened with the previous main rack.

Now it remains to make the doors and vents of the future greenhouse. In this case, it is imperative to leave gaps of at least 5 mm on all sides. This will provide protection against rubbing when the loops sag.

The door and vents are installed in the hatches. To maintain the correct installation and clearances, it is necessary to unfasten these parts with wedges, and then set and. Then weld the door and vents.

On this, the main work on installing a greenhouse from metal profile pipes can be considered completed. It remains to paint all the pipes with a primer and sew up the greenhouse with polycarbonate or plastic wrap.