The most reliable insulation for floors in the attic. Insulation of non-residential attic of a private house

One of the main places of heat loss in the house is the roof. This conclusion can be made thanks to practical observations and initial physics, because warm air tends to rise up. That is why the attic should be insulated. If you do not perform high-quality thermal insulation of the attic floor at the stage of building a house, in the future, when winter sets in, cold air can blow strongly from the ceiling. Suspended ceiling Armstrong is an excellent solution for a private house. The question arises, how to insulate the attic of the house. At the same time, the wishes of the owners of houses can be completely different: for some, the main thing is that it is cheaper, for someone that the work is easier, and someone wants to insulate with exclusively environmentally friendly or natural materials. In this article, we will talk about the general attic insulation technology and the materials that can be used for this.

Before proceeding directly to the materials for insulation, I would like to clarify a little why it is necessary to insulate the attic in a private house and what function it performs. Our ancestors were not stupid or ignorant, which is why old houses stand for more than 100 years, while the house is always warm, and the roof and wooden structures are always dry. What's the secret? The thing is that the ideal insulation is air. Free, natural, always present, and besides, it can also be changed depending on the time of year. Previously, the roof was always made gable, with such a slope that it was easy to linger on it. snow. It's also a cheap heater. Under the slope of the roof, an attic was made with one or two windows in the gables of the house. When necessary, these windows were kept closed, then the air trapped in the attic room acted as a heat insulator. In another situation, in the summer, for example, windows were opened at night to cool the air, and then closed before a hot day, thus controlling its temperature.

With the onset of winter, snow fell on the roof. Even in the most severe cold, this natural insulation was enough to ensure that the temperature in the attic did not fall below zero, even if it was -25 ° C outside. The air in the attic space and additional thermal insulation of the ceiling were necessary in order to provide a temperature of about +20 - + 25 °С in the house. At the same time, the roof slope was never insulated from the inside, so that the snow would not melt, and the rafters remained open for diagnostics and repairs. A heated attic with an insulated slope is no longer an attic, no matter what shape it has. This is an attic, with all that it implies.

In modern construction, these principles also work. Therefore, let's talk about how you can insulate the attic of a private house, what material to insulate the attic floor, i.e. attic floor or house ceiling.

How to insulate an attic

First of all, the material for attic insulation is selected taking into account what the floor is made of. If it is made of wooden beams, and a wooden floor is laid on top, then light bulk materials, rolls and slabs can be used. Those. the largest selection. If the ceiling is a concrete slab, then dense slab materials or, in extreme cases, heavy bulk materials will have to be used to insulate it, since a cement screed can be made on top of them.

Bulk materials for attic insulation:

• Sawdust;
• Straw;
• Reeds;
• Buckwheat tyrsa;
• Ecowool (cellulose wool);
• Linen (loose waste of linen processing);
• glass wool;
• Expanded clay;
• Seaweed;
• Slag;
• Sex from grain crops;
• Styrofoam granules.

Roll materials for attic insulation:

• Mineral wool;
• glass wool;

Materials in slabs and mats:

• Straw;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• Seaweed;
• Mineral wool in slabs.

When choosing how best to insulate the attic, one should be guided by the thermal insulation characteristics of the material, availability in a particular region, its ability not to change its properties with temperature changes, ease of installation, and then use of the premises, and also, importantly, environmental friendliness, and better naturalness. For example, building a wooden house and insulating the attic with polystyrene would be at least stupid, because wood is a breathable material, but polystyrene is not. As a result, the house will be damp and disgusting, and over time, wooden structures will begin to rot and deteriorate. And, of course, the choice of insulation will depend on the financial capabilities of the owner.

How to insulate a cold attic with backfill materials

Insulation of the attic with backfill materials is the most ancient method that has proven itself for centuries. Most often it is used if the floors are wooden, then it simply falls asleep between the lags.

The general technology of this insulation is as follows: kraft paper or other similar material (glassine, loose cardboard) is laid on wooden floors, or the floor is smeared with clay, heat-insulating material is poured on top, a layer that is calculated taking into account the region of residence, boards are laid on top, along which you can will walk. The hatch leading to the attic is also insulated.

Rumors that natural insulation quickly caking are somewhat exaggerated. Therefore, without fear, you can choose the one that you like the most and will be available.

Attic insulation with linen

To insulate the attic with your own hands, you do not need special skills. Enough skill and basic knowledge of physics. The first step is to close up all the cracks in the wooden floor. They can be covered with clay, or with modern materials. Then kraft paper is laid on top or the entire surface of the floor is smeared with clay with a layer of 2 cm.

Bonfire- waste from flax processing. The material is very cheap in some regions, resistant to fungi and microorganisms, does not rot, light. Mice do not start in the fire, since it is impossible to make a mink (nest) in it, it immediately crumbles, filling up the passage. The material is caked, but it can always be topped up directly on top or replaced with a new one. The indisputable advantage of linen materials is that there are no problems with their disposal, it is enough just to remove them from the attic and then burn them, which cannot be said about glass wool.

The fire is filled with a layer from 180 to 350 mm. It is not covered with anything from above, for the convenience of walking in the attic, you can lay out the boards, but do not fill the entire space, do not make a full-fledged floor. This will allow the material to breathe, give off moisture. In the attic, ventilation is necessarily provided in the form of small or medium-sized windows. From time to time the material is checked if it is slightly damp, the windows are opened to dry the space and linen.

When wondering how to properly insulate a cold attic, many tend to the old grandfather's way - to insulate with sawdust. This is especially true in regions where wood processing is nearby, where you can buy sawdust for ridiculous money or even get it for free in any quantity.

To begin with, as in the case of linen insulation, all the cracks in the floor are smeared with clay. Top with a little sand. It is necessary so that if the clay cracks, the sand falls into the gap. Next, sprinkle everything with slaked lime with carbide. This will be mouse protection. From above we fall asleep with sawdust with a layer of 100 - 200 mm. Since sawdust is a combustible material, they were usually sprinkled with slag mining on top. Especially in areas around chimneys or other hot objects. Instead of slag, other materials can be used, for example, sawdust can be treated with fire retardants. Nothing is laid on top of the sawdust, except for boards on which one could walk.

Instead of sawdust, you can use straw or chaff from cereals. Kraft paper or glassine is also laid under it, but you can smear the floor with clay with a layer of up to 5 cm. Straw is immediately poured with a layer of 200 - 500 mm, depending on the region and the severity of the winter cold. To reduce the combustibility of straw, it can be smeared with clay from above with a layer of 1 - 2 cm. Against mice, the same method is used as with sawdust, or any other folk remedy.

Ecowool- modern material, a product of processing newspapers and other waste paper with the addition of mineral binders and other additives that provide a low flammability class.

Due to the fact that ecowool can absorb moisture from the air in its fibers, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier material, but it is still worth laying some kind of film.

Ecowool is immediately laid directly on the wooden floors, this is done using a special blowing machine. This installation principle makes it possible to make the insulation layer monolithic, without a single gap, and it will also contain large amounts of air, which serves as a heat insulator. For many regions of Russia, a layer of ecowool of 250 mm is sufficient, but both 300 and 500 mm layers can be equipped.

Important! After about 1 - 3 weeks, a protective crust forms on top of the ecowool. This is lignin, which binds the fibers of the upper layer. Therefore, sometimes when installing this insulation, water spraying is used to speed up the process of lignin formation.

Due to the fact that ecowool is caking, its layer decreases, therefore, when blowing, 5 - 15% more than the planned amount of ecowool should be used.

Attic insulation with fiberglass

A fairly common way to insulate an attic floor is to fill in fiberglass with a layer of 150 - 250 mm. Although this material does not burn, does not rot, is not afraid of moisture, mice and microorganisms do not start in it, but it is quite toxic. When laying it on the floor of the attic, be sure to be dressed from head to toe in tight clothes, with gloves and with a respirator. After all the styling work, the clothes will have to be burned.

Once the material has dried, it must be replaced with a new one, and here some difficulties arise, since the material is not disposed of in the usual way. The biggest inconvenience arises when there are no windows in the attic through which it can be thrown out into the street, and it has to be carried through the house.

Attic insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is very well suited for insulating concrete floors. It is covered with a layer of about 200 - 250 mm, and a cement screed is poured on top with a layer of up to 50 mm. This allows you to make a floor in the attic, on which you can not only walk freely, but also on which you can arrange or spread out unnecessary things. The cement-sand mixture for the screed should not have a liquid, but a dense consistency, so as not to flow too much into the expanded clay backfill.

How to properly insulate the attic with roll materials

Rolled materials are good for insulation in that they can be laid in the space between the lags up to 180 - 200 mm high. Mostly materials are used that are easy to cut and quickly take the required shape.

Mineral wool is a modern thermal insulation material, ubiquitous. It is very often used for attic insulation, as it does not burn, does not rot, is not afraid of microorganisms and rodents, as well as moisture.

From below, a vapor barrier film is necessarily laid on the wooden floor, the joints of which are glued with special adhesive tape, because the cotton wool absorbs moisture, but practically does not give it away.

Mineral wool rolls can be laid on top of the film. During work it is necessary to be dressed in thick clothing, as is the case with fiberglass. Vata takes its full size within 15 - 20 minutes. From above it does not need to be covered with anything, but you can lay boards for walking. Waterproofing material to protect wool from leaks is laid only under the roof.

Attic insulation with algae ladders

Algae ladders are an excellent natural material for attic insulation. Thanks to sea salt and iodine, which are impregnated with algae, mice do not start in them, and they also do not rot and are not afraid of microorganisms. The ladders are sewn mats made of zoster sea grass. In terms of thermal insulation properties, this material is in no way inferior to modern synthetic materials. One of the main advantages is environmental friendliness, as well as the fact that the ladders practically do not burn, they only smolder slightly and do not emit toxic substances.

Algae are not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vapor barrier the floor, you can immediately lay ladders on the floor with a layer of up to 200 mm or more. From above, you can equip a wooden floor or lay boards for walking.

The use of algae for attic insulation is very beneficial for the health of the inhabitants of the house, as they provide ideal conditions and indoor microclimate, and also release useful iodine into the air.

Attic insulation with linen insulation

Modern linen heaters are produced in the same rolls as mineral wool. Only their advantage is in absolute environmental friendliness. Linen is an excellent choice for insulating the attic of a wooden house or a house made of other environmentally friendly materials - adobe, for example.

Before laying the roll material, all cracks in the floor should be sealed with clay, no other vapor barrier is needed. Linen insulation is laid on top, neatly joining and leaving no gaps.

How to insulate the attic with slab materials and mats

It makes no sense to insulate a wooden floor with slab materials, although this is possible. Basically, such materials are used for thermal insulation of concrete floor slabs. With the subsequent arrangement of the floor in the attic.

Attic insulation with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam

Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene is not a very dense material, but it can be used to insulate the attic. But extruded polystyrene foam is ideal for these purposes, as it is much denser. Before laying foam or extruded polystyrene, the floor slab must be checked for unevenness. The surface must be leveled so that the thermal insulation boards can be laid neatly. A vapor barrier should be laid on the leveled surface.

Next, the plates are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, and the joints are sealed with mounting foam. After the foam dries, it is necessary to pour a cement-sand screed on top with a layer of about 4 - 5 cm. After the screed dries, it can be used as an attic floor.

Attic insulation with reeds

Reed slabs began to be made relatively recently, when the demand for environmentally friendly materials began to gain popularity. In terms of thermal insulation properties, reeds are no worse than modern materials. Even without their treatment with flame retardants, the flammability class is G2 - G3, and after treatment - G1. What can not be said about polystyrene and XPS, which burn and release toxic substances at the same time.

Reed slabs can be used to insulate both wooden and concrete floors. In this case, a vapor barrier is not required. And on top you can equip a wooden floor or flooring.

The modern market is replete with a variety of thermal insulation materials, and sellers are trying to praise them, attributing non-existent advantages. Therefore, in conclusion, I would like to say, when choosing material for attic insulation, be guided by the general concept of the house and life priorities. If your house is made of environmentally friendly wood, then the insulation should be natural, so you will not only save the wood, but also your health. If your house is made of foam blocks or other non-breathing material, you can also use mineral wool, it will not be worse.

Video: how to insulate the attic

With the rise in energy prices, the need to improve the thermal insulation of suburban households increases. Without high-quality work, arrangement and living outside the city in the winter will not be comfortable. Comprehensive attic insulation in a private house with your own hands involves the study of all roof surfaces. This is a simple, but multi-stage process, where all operations must be carried out in compliance with the laying technology in order to avoid mistakes that are difficult to correct during the operation of the building. The attic is used in different ways, the degree of insulation from the inside and outside depends on it.

Determining the functionality of the attic

Full insulation of the attic of a wooden house or a small cottage is very important, and it is better not to delay it so that condensation does not cause dampness. It leads to a decrease in the life of the building, the emergence of a favorable environment for fungi and mold. This happens over time in a new house, and in an old one.

An uninsulated attic is the whole house with a lot of heat loss, even if the boiler or stove is working to its fullest. Due to the temperature difference, cold penetrates into the house through all the cracks and openings, and an uninsulated attic gives off most of the heat from the ceiling of residential premises. Therefore, after insulating windows and floors, they move on to thermal insulation of the attic.

When using the attic as a living area, a finish is needed on top of thermal insulation materials. If this is a purely technical room, then you should not spend money on finishing materials. Perhaps, over time, there will be a desire to use the attic as an attic, then lay the floor and decorate the internal slopes of the roof as walls. Before that, it will be possible to strengthen the thermal insulation.

Tip: Experts recommend immediately making a full-fledged multi-layer insulation with vapor and waterproofing of attic floors. If the filler is laid in layers in a checkerboard pattern, closing the joints, then there will be no "cold bridges".

When the attic is used for technical needs and general maintenance of the roof, it is worth separately insulating:

• floors;
• chimney;
• communications.

Choosing the right materials and insulation

In the recent past, in rural houses, in order to reduce heat loss, a layer was laid out in attics:

• straw or hay;
• sawdust and shavings;
• dry leaves or seaweed.

Mice often settled in natural materials, and the materials themselves could ignite when the chimney overheated. Later, attics began to be insulated:

• glass wool;
• expanded clay;
• ruberoid.

Today, specialized materials are used to insulate the attic of the latest generation, in convenient packaging, which can be purchased at any hardware store. They can cover all surfaces under the roof. The thickness of the insulating filler is selected in accordance with:

• from the functionality of the attic;
• technical characteristics of the material;
• climatic factors.

The main advantages of modern materials for full thermal insulation:

• low specific gravity;
• low cost;
• ease of installation and operation;
• fire safety;
• they are not toxic;
• excellent protection against moisture and temperature extremes.

Among the most common materials for attic insulation in a private house do-it-yourself use:

• mineral or basalt wool (ecowool);
• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• expanded clay;
• polyurethane foam;
• fiberglass, etc.

Before laying the main thermal insulation material, it is important to ensure:

• condensate drain;
• vapor barrier of floors;
• roof waterproofing.

Tip: Windproof film, rolled waterproofing materials and a vapor barrier membrane will cope with this, which will provide layers of the main insulation with protection from condensation and wetting.

For high-quality attic insulation in a private house, you can use any latest-generation insulation that is offered in a building supermarket.

Attention: Before buying, you should consult with the specialists of the trading floor and read the instructions in order to have an idea about the method of its installation. Some materials are sprayed, like snow, on inclined surfaces, others are laid with the help of a crate, and expanded clay is covered with a layer on the lower surface.

When laying layers for attic insulation with mineral wool and similar rolled materials, it is important to exclude the divergence of the insulation seams. Thermal insulation should be tightly adjacent to all surfaces, enter the openings between the beams, forming a continuous cover. Joints between tile materials such as insulating foam can be filled with mounting foam.

When choosing materials, the determining factors remain:

• roof shape;
• general condition of the attic and its functionality;
• type of roofing materials;
• gable thickness;
• pre-laid rolled waterproofing or its absence.

Today, fiberglass, foam glass and mineral wool are the most popular and reliable materials. But high-quality insulation of the attic at home with your own hands should begin with full-fledged moisture protection and vapor barrier. And although this is an additional cost, it is worth taking care of it, even if it is simple fiberglass or special foil.

Heaters used for processing the attic space have a different degree of thermal conductivity. Heat saving and the recommended number of layers for application, spraying or styling depend on this factor.

When choosing a material for roof and attic insulation, it is important to consider the climate zone. If the house is located in a region with a warm climate, it is not recommended to buy rolls and sheets of maximum thickness. For latitudes with severe and long winters, bulk materials are used. It makes sense to lay insulation in 2-3 layers, use different types of thermal insulation on one surface. But remember that the volume of thermal insulation material does not always indicate the quality of the insulation and its maximum performance. They can be checked against the table.

1. High-density mineral wool is a universal thermal insulation that has a sufficient degree of protection against moisture accumulation. Under it, it is enough to lay a dense vapor barrier membrane. Basalt wool has several forms of release - slabs, rolls, loose mixture, to be used for any type of surface. It is also used as insulation and fire protection for chimneys and chimneys.

Attention: A small amount of formaldehyde is present in the mineral wool composition of some packaging forms. Therefore, when working with it, use a protective respirator and gloves, observing safety precautions.

2. Fiberglass is an excellent eco-material with a high degree of fire safety, although some of its indicators are slightly lower than analogues. It is available in packaging that is convenient for installation, it is easy to transport and store directly in the attic. Even a novice in this business can easily handle the installation of fiberglass according to the instructions included with the purchase. Suitable for warming the ceiling of a cold attic. However, it is more often used for external roof insulation.

3. Expanded clay is an excellent bulk insulation that is poured onto the floor (lower horizontal surface) of an attic or attic. Since its weight is low and thermal conductivity is low, the use of this bulk material makes it preferred. There is nothing easier - to pour expanded clay on the floor or between the joists, leveling with the required height layer over the vapor-tight membrane. The only drawback is that it is difficult to use on an inclined surface. Also suitable for the main filling of the cement mixture. On expanded clay, fastened with a cement-sand mixture, a laminate or linoleum is laid in a residential area.

4. Expanded polystyrene resembles polystyrene, it is not susceptible to mold and fungus. It is quite fireproof, durable and environmentally friendly. Does not cause a reaction even in allergy sufferers. It is laid with the help of lathing in layers, but it is important to provide waterproofing with rolled material before its installation.

5. Spraying with polyurethane foam resembles a layer of snow, and it is used where other heaters are difficult to lay, for example, with a complex roof shape with many kinks. It is sprayed onto the laid vapor barrier membrane.

Tip: When insulating the attic of a wooden house or cottage, you can combine several types of material, depending on the shape of the ceiling and the features of the roof.

Attention: Sometimes an additional wooden crate is used to eliminate seams and "cold bridges". But they should not add significant weight to the structure of the house, especially on problematic soils!

The crate for sheathing with insulation is made after the installation of waterproofing. The frame for sheathing is made from planks that were used for sheathing under roll and sheet insulation.

If it is planned to use the attic as a living space, then after warming they proceed to sheathing with finishing materials of the attic. Suitable for this purpose:

• drywall;
• OSB boards;
• plywood boards;
• sheet composite materials.

Internal and external insulation

The building materials market offers a wide range of full-fledged attic insulation used as additional living space. Today it is customary to combine the external method and waterproofing and insulation and interior decoration.

When choosing a method of external insulation of a gable or hip roof, it is taken into account how its slopes and roofing materials will be insulated. Insulation is mounted between rafters, beams and battens. For example, they combine rolled materials and solid insulation packed in layers, for example, basalt wool, a special membrane or foil. The difference between external and internal insulation is in the method of laying on floors or on beams.

For interior work, they begin with laying a layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing, and then mount 1-2 layers of insulation, for example, mineral wool. It is not closed with anything so that excess moisture from condensate can easily evaporate.

Polyurethane foam does not require additional sheathing at all, it is light, sprayed from a two-component mixture with special equipment. Upon completion of the application, a durable material in the form of dense flakes forms on the inner surface of the roof slopes. It does not form condensate and "cold bridges", even if we spray directly on the frame and roofing iron. It can also be used as insulation for attic pipes and chimneys.

A little about safety

Loose insulation tends to crumble, dust or evaporate volatile substances. Therefore, experts recommend working in a mask and clothing that protects the skin and respiratory organs from irritants and allergens. It is equally important to protect your eyes with goggles.

All work is carried out in work gloves, regardless of air temperature and installation conditions. For outdoor work on roof insulation, you can use insurance and equipment for climbers. It is important to check the reliability of the stairs in advance, including the roof that moves along the ridge. All work is done with an assistant or a person in charge of insurance.

Preparing the attic for insulation

The attic space is often filled with various household rubbish, which is used quite rarely, for example, equipment for winter fishing and summer picnics. Before starting work on insulation, all this must be removed from the attic, especially when spraying.

Wooden parts, such as beams, rafters and lathing, it is important to pre-treat with a protective compound against rotting and the formation of fungus. Metal surfaces are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or a metal primer. All rust is cleaned with a special metal brush. There is a wash in the use of moisture-repellent compounds.

The old sealant, which has been used for a long time, is removed from the slots. Old felt, hemp, polystyrene foam, sawdust and rags decay and lose their properties over time. After cleaning from old materials used fragmentarily, sometimes small gaps appear that can be treated with mounting foam.

After that:

• provide access to all treated surfaces;
• we prepare the working area and all the tools;
• we prepare materials for insulation and work clothes;
• we provide ventilation after completion of insulation work.

Before laying mineral wool as an attic insulation, a wooden crate is made of fixing strips, which should hold the layers of material. This can be done from conventional mounting rails, which are inexpensive. Under the decorative decoration of the walls of the attic, used as an attic room, laying can be done without crates, placed between the ceiling and the panels of finishing materials.

Warming technology

1. After the initial inspection, all defects in the overlap must be detected, and all rotten parts must be replaced or duplicated. Wood is treated with fungicides and antiseptics.

2. We equip or correct the waterproofing layer to get a full-fledged hydro-barrier. In unstable places, membrane materials can be patched with mounting tape.

3. Between the rafters, the gaps are filled with a layer of heat-insulating material. If necessary, we lay it in 2 layers, but the seams of the boards must be blocked. Roll materials overlap.

4. The adjunction of floor structures to the walls should be insulated especially carefully, without gaps. The insulation is installed without jams and failures.

5. It is important to carefully adjust the insulation at the joints, at the ventilation window, near communications and the chimney. In some places, it is advisable to fill in bulk mineral wool, which will fill the voids, moreover, it does not ignite even in hot places near chimneys.

6. A layer of vapor barrier is fixed on top of the thermal insulation layer, while the sheets are laid with a slight overlap, secured with mounting tape.

7. Insulation of communications is the next stage, because without insulation of the ventilation shaft, chimney and pipes, the work will not be comprehensive. This can be desired with special corrugations and insulating linings, perlite and basalt wool are suitable.

8. After checking the tightness of the attic insulation, the floor is processed. It is done after the cleaning of construction debris after the installation of fillers for insulation. Best of all, specially laid logs hold a layer of loose expanded clay. It can be filled with sawdust or clay, and moisture-resistant plywood can be laid on top. More clearly - attic insulation, video:

Thermal insulation of a residential building will always be the main task solving the problem of heating. After all, you must agree that not the house that is heated will be a warm house, but the one that retains this heat. No matter how good the heating is, without thermal insulation, efforts will be in vain. And in order to reduce heating costs and make the house really warm, you need to think about saving heat.

Insulating their home, many begin to finish the attic. Is it necessary? Yes, because it is through the ceiling that a lot of heat escapes. And if you take care of its insulation, then the ceiling will not let heat out. Everyone knows from physics lessons that warm air goes up to the ceiling. And if it passes heat, then such air will simply go outside. Thanks to this article, you will learn which attic insulation to choose in order to reduce heat loss.

What is attic insulation

What is attic insulation work? The technology is quite simple: the insulation material can be laid on the floor, in the space between the floor beams and additionally between the roof rafters. If we talk about the insulation of the room, which is located at the bottom of the attic, then it is enough to insulate the floor. In the event that you want to store something in the attic or use it as an attic from time to time, the roof is also insulated.

What materials can be laid in the attic for insulation? In this article, we'll take a look at the different options and their pros and cons. Immediately, we note that there are several types of heaters:

1. Slab.
2. Roll.
3. Sprayable.
4. Bulk.

Each of the insulation options is good in its own way. We will select the best heaters that are suitable for this purpose. You must understand that the choice is yours. Our site will offer you only a list of proven attic insulation materials that have won a lot of positive feedback. So, we will consider the following options:

• classic - mineral wool;
• irreplaceable foam;
• expensive, but very high-quality PPU;
• simple and cheap bulk materials such as expanded clay, sawdust or slag.

What are they? What is the laying technology of each insulation and its advantages? Let's find out further.

Warming with mineral wool

Perhaps only a grandmother in the village has not heard of mineral wool, and that is not a fact. This is the most common insulation for home insulation, which is used both for self-insulation and by professional teams. I would especially like to note basalt wool, which does not burn at all and has excellent characteristics. Why did you love mineral wool so much? Let's look at its positive aspects.

1. Ecological purity.
2. The property keeps its shape well.
3. Light weight, which does not load the structure.
4. Low thermal conductivity.
5. It is not spoiled by rodents.
6. She doesn't burn.
7. Soundproofing.
8. It has a "breathing effect", creating a good microclimate.
9. Relatively low cost.
10. Easy to work with insulating material.

Why is this attic insulation so good? Mineral wool is sold both in slabs and in rolls. It keeps its shape well, and you can easily insulate the floor of the attic, as well as the roof. It is enough to lay mineral wool in the space between the beams and sheathe everything with hydro and vapor barrier. This is very important, since the main disadvantage of the material is that it is afraid of moisture. It will destroy the insulation, which will eventually lose its original properties.

You can see the technology of laying mineral wool from the video.

Foam insulation

Well, if a grandmother from the village could not hear about mineral wool, then the foam plastic is definitely familiar to her. One of the simple and affordable insulation materials, which is widely used by builders. The main advantage of polystyrene is its low cost along with good performance. It is much denser than cotton wool, so it is easier to work with foam. It works great and fits in the right place. What else can be noted?

1. Low thermal conductivity (lower than mineral wool).
2. Small cost.
3. Affordable price.
4. Soundproofing.
5. Immune to moisture.
6. Ease of installation.
7. Holds its shape well.

However, the low cost affects other aspects. There are more disadvantages to polystyrene. For example, it burns very well. One spark is enough and the material will immediately begin to melt. In addition, it is not vapor-permeable, you will not get a breathing effect for walls. And if it is not properly protected, then the rodents will pretty sharpen the material.

Nevertheless, polystyrene is and will be one of the popular heaters. Fires are an infrequent phenomenon, in the attic the breathing effect is not so important, and if you protect the material, then rodents are not terrible. For the price this is a great option.

PPU insulation

One of the most expensive options for insulation, due to the complexity of the process. PPU is a representative of sprayed materials such as penoizol. The insulation technology, at first glance, is simple: it is enough to spray the composition from the unit onto the surface, it will increase several times and fill all the cracks. On the one hand, this is true, but the catch is that such equipment is not easy to find. And it's not even the availability of units, but the ability to use them. Such work is entrusted only to experienced specialists who have access to the equipment.

The components that make up polyurethane foam are mixed in the unit in an ideal ratio, and the finished composition is sprayed onto the surface, which increases in size. Why is this expensive method so good?

1. Ecological purity of the material.
2. Light weight.
3. The lowest thermal conductivity.
4. A monolithic structure is created without seams, which can become cold bridges.
5. Immune to moisture.
6. Adhesion to almost any surface.
7. biostability.
8. Soundproofing.
9. It is not eaten by rodents.
10. The quality of insulation is top notch.

As you can see, there are really a lot of advantages of insulation. But they are offset by some factors. Firstly, an insulated attic will not breathe. Secondly, you will not be able to do the insulation yourself without specialists. Thirdly, such a pleasure for the attic will be expensive. Is it worth it - you decide.

Warming with bulk materials

This option can be called the simplest and "in haste" without problems. All that is required is to pour the selected insulation of a certain layer. What can be used?

1. Expanded clay.
2. Sawdust.
3. Slag.

Expanded clay

Insulation material is balls that are poured onto the floor. You realized that they will not be able to insulate the walls. It is divided into fractions: expanded clay sand, crushed stone or gravel. What is the feature of the material?

1. Does not burn.
2. Environmentally friendly.
3. Durable.
4. Frost-resistant.
5. Has high strength.
6. Light weight.
7. Sound and heat insulation.

Insulation material is poured over a layer of roofing material, at least 15 cm thick. It all depends on the attic floor and the properties of thermal insulation. So that you have the opportunity to walk on the floor surface, you can make a concrete screed from above, the thickness of which is about 5 cm. It remains to arrange the flooring from wood, chipboard or other material.

As for sawdust and slag, the technology is almost identical. The laid material will save heat, but not as good as the options above. However, labor costs are minimal. If you do not want to bother, then this is a good alternative to conventional insulation.

Summing up

As you can see, the variety of materials for attic insulation is really large. Each of them is good in their own way. If you are limited in funds, then you can use foam. And when there are funds, then choose between mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Some combine insulation materials, leveling the shortcomings of the foam. How? The bottom layer is made of thick foam, and a thin layer of mineral wool is laid on top. Simple and fireproof. However, remember, no matter what insulation you choose to cover the attic, stick to the technology of its installation. This is the only way to achieve high-quality attic insulation.

The space under the attic is one of the most energy intensive areas in the home. Insulation of the attic will help not only to maintain comfort in the house, but also save energy that needs to be spent on heating the home space. This process will also help to significantly extend the life of the entire building.

Peculiarities

Insulation of the attic in a house with a cold roof is especially necessary, since according to statistics, heat loss here is about 20%, which is almost a fifth of the budget of an average family. This is due to the fact that, according to the laws of physics, warm air always rushes up, which means that thermal insulation of various walls, slots and joints, as well as surfaces is simply necessary. This leads to the question of how to implement such an idea.

A long time ago, people tried their best to cost private houses that could stand for a hundred years. Living in them was quite comfortable, and the frame, made of good wood, constantly remained dry. Most often, the roofs of such houses were made gable and had a small slope angle. This can be explained by the fact that during the cold season, snow had to be kept on the roof, since, oddly enough, it performed the function of a natural insulation. In the upper part, one window was made, which was closed for the winter, so that the air in the attic played the role of a heat insulator.

In the warm season, the window was slightly opened at night to reduce the temperature in the attic. When it got hot, the windows were closed, and the air temperature did not rise, which allowed it to be regulated.

Design subtleties

Before starting work on preparing the insulation of the attic space, it is necessary to understand exactly how it should be operated in order to choose the right set of actions that will make it possible to maintain the required level of humidity and temperature.

There can be three use cases:

• Unheated attic space. In this case, due to properly conducted thermal insulation, the temperature here should be maintained in the region of 5-50 degrees.

• Warm loft. This type of room can be provided with heat thanks to the ventilation pipes from the living quarters. It is through them that warm air will enter the attic. Typically, such premises are typical for buildings with several floors.
• Heated attic loft. In this case, the attic will be a normal living space with heating. To insulate such a room, significantly less heat and waterproofing are required. In this case, the vapor barrier layer can be omitted, but at the same time, it is simply necessary to seal the joints and gaps with high quality.

When it comes to private construction, the first and third options will be an excellent solution.

materials

Today on the market you can find a large number of materials that sellers position as excellent solutions for warming attic spaces. It can be difficult for a simple buyer to understand this sea of ​​\u200b\u200boptions and solutions.

In order for the choice to be as correct and effective as possible, it is necessary to take into account the conditions where such material will be used:

1. It is better to give preference to products that are resistant to moisture.
2. If there is wiring in the room, it is better to use fire-resistant materials to avoid a fire during a short circuit.
3. Insulation should in no case be caked. Otherwise, it may lead to the loss of its main functions.
4. Its properties must be preserved in the temperature range from +25 to -35 degrees. At the same time, in severe frosts, the insulation should not become freezing, and in extreme heat, it should not release substances harmful to health and the environment into the air.

Before carrying out the insulation of the attic floor, it is necessary to take into account what material the attic floors are made of. If wooden beams are used, then one of three types of insulation must be used:

• bulk;
• tiled;
• rolled.

If the ceiling is a whole concrete slab, then it is better to use dense slab or bulk heat insulators with a large mass. Thanks to their use, it is possible to make a cement screed.

If we talk directly about the materials, then in the form of plates or mats are produced:

• Styrofoam;
• penoplex;
• mineral wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• straw;
• penoizol;
• seaweed;
• foam concrete.

If we talk about roll options, then they are:

• glass wool;
• stone wool;
• seaweed.

As for bulk materials for attic insulation, we are talking about products such as:

• slag;
• straw;
• expanded clay;
• reeds;
• ecowool;
• foam granules;
• buckwheat tyrsa;
• sawdust.

It is best to carry out insulation of floors with environmentally friendly materials. For example, ventilation insulation can be made with ecowool or some similar material.

If we talk about sawdust, then their main advantage is an affordable price. At the same time, it should be noted that before use they should be dried and treated with an antiseptic, or slaked lime should be used, which must first be mixed with carbide. Sawdust affected by the fungus should never be used.

Another good natural material that can be used in the described process is reeds. It has little thermal conductivity. As a heater, only mature plants can be used.

If we talk about penoizol, then this material is a slightly modified foam. It is applied in the form of foam, which hardens within a few days. It is not affected by biological factors, is not afraid of moisture and is not subject to combustion. At the same time, if we talk about its shortcomings, then when using it, it is necessary to use special equipment, as well as to have certain knowledge.

Expanded clay- another material on which I would like to draw your attention. It is absolutely environmentally friendly and fireproof. True, its disadvantage is high thermal conductivity. In order for it to perform its functions qualitatively, it is necessary to fill it with a layer of about 20 cm.

Mineral wool- also a fairly popular material with low thermal conductivity. Most often sold in the form of mats or rolls. Its main drawback is its high price. But recently, many have resorted to using ecowool, which has no worse characteristics, but is much cheaper.

In general, it can be noted that the choice of insulation depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the home, as well as on each specific attic.

Surface preparation

The first action that needs to be performed as part of the preparatory work is cleaning the attic from things and various debris, because in almost 90% of cases the attic is used as storage for things. If there has already been an attempt to insulate the attic, then you should completely get rid of all traces of this process.

You should also carry out hydro and thermal insulation of the attic.

If the old insulation remains, then it is necessary to check in what condition it is, since some areas are especially susceptible to the appearance of rot and fungus. They should be removed and treated with antifungal agents.

After that, you need to make sure that there are no cracks or gaps in the wooden floor or roof ceilings, gables, rafters and other elements. If they are found during the inspection, then they must be eliminated by applying putty or replacing damaged elements.

If we talk specifically about the flooring, then it must be carefully examined for irregularities. If they are, then they need to be eliminated. After that, impregnate the beams with an antiseptic. Then you need to collect the overlap of the floor - the boards are nailed to the beams from the side of the house.

Work technology

After the preparatory work has been completed, you can begin to carry out the insulation of the attic with your own hands. The technology, depending on the type of insulation chosen, may differ.

Mineral wool installation

If it is required to insulate the floors with mineral wool, then first a layer of vapor barrier is laid on the floor and logs. As a rule, foil, polyethylene or a special membrane can be used to create such a layer. It is overlapped, and the joints are smeared with glue, after which rolls of insulation are laid on top. Also, mineral wool is placed between the rafters.

When viewed from the side of the cornice, the material is laid horizontally, setting it on its side, which allows you to create a barrier to the penetration of wind. If there is room ventilation, an additional insulation is applied to this entire structure, which tends to let steam through. As a rule, isospan is best used in this case. The implementation of such a scheme to create a kind of "pie" will significantly improve the thermal insulation characteristics of a non-residential attic.

Foam insulation

If the choice fell on polystyrene, then its use will make it possible to obtain a monolithic coating of a heat-insulating type. You should start with the fact that such a heater is laid only on a flat surface, which means that all irregularities on the floor must first be removed. After that, a vapor barrier layer is laid on the base.

Now, insulation boards are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and the joints are covered with mounting foam. When it hardens, it is necessary to make a cement-sand mortar and a screed. It is important to know that the layer of this solution must be at least 5 cm thick. This technology is considered quite successful.

sawdust and straw

If you decide to choose sawdust, then this is also a good option. Houses have been insulated with this old method for more than a dozen years.

First, all existing gaps should be eliminated with clay. After that, a small amount of sand must be laid on the floor so that it fills the gaps in the floor, if any. Then the base is sprinkled with a composition of carbide and slaked lime, which will avoid the possible appearance of rodents.

After that, you can pour sawdust. The layer thickness should be up to 20 cm. Since sawdust is a combustible material, they should be sprinkled with slag. This will be the final step, since no material is laid on top of the sawdust anymore.

You can also insulate the attic floor with straw. To do this, the attic base is covered with a clay layer of about 5 mm, after which straw is laid. Its thickness can be from 20 to 45 cm. In this case, everything will depend on the climate.

To prevent the possibility of the appearance of rodents, as in previous cases, slaked lime with the addition of carbide should be used. But other substances can also be used. After that, a layer of clay 2 cm thick is applied to the straw, which will prevent the fire of thermal insulation in case of a fire hazard.

Styrofoam

It is also possible to insulate the attic with polystyrene foam. It is usually used in old houses where the floors are made of wood. It perfectly retains heat and does not form any load on the supporting structures. In addition, expanded polystyrene is easy to cut and install. It is also worth noting that it does not absorb water at all and is an environmentally friendly material.

To insulate the place under the roof and the floor, use plates with a thickness of 12-14 cm. They are laid in 2 layers. The first is fixed between the lags, and the second - on them. After that, the entire structure is reinforced with slats, on which a vapor barrier is then laid. The final touch will be upholstery with plywood or sheathing with lining.

But you should know that such thermal insulation should be used in the attic only when this room will have a technical focus or act as a utility room.

If it is decided to use the attic in some other way, then it is better not to use this material due to the fact that it does not protect against noise and poorly resists the effects of various chemicals. In addition, few types of Styrofoam are fire resistant.

Ecowool

Another good option for attic insulation is the use of ecowool. This type of insulation is installed using a blowing machine. The advantage of this method is that there is no need to prepare the base. However, such a layer will be homogeneous without gaps.

The thickness of the ecowool should be about 25 cm so that it performs its duties perfectly. However, you should be aware that during operation, the amount of insulation will decrease. For this reason, the ecowool layer must be increased by a quarter. After applying the layer in 1-3 weeks, the so-called protective crust should appear, which will be evidence of the completion of the warming process.

We warm communications

But the matter is not limited to floor insulation. If it is not supposed to make an attic, then it is imperative to carry out the insulation of ventilation ducts, as well as all types of pipes that are available, since engineering communications in the attic require insulation without fail.

If you need to turn a cold attic in a private house into a living space: a nursery or a guest room, a workshop, a gym, it is not necessary to build on a floor with a new roof. You can turn a pitched roof into a classic attic. This is much easier than building a capital superstructure, and also cheaper. We tell you how to insulate a cold attic.

We warm the attic correctly

Differences between attic and attic

The main difference is in the insulation system and the way the space is ventilated. In the first case, the floor of the cold attic is insulated, and ventilation occurs with the help of a ventilation chamber. An example diagram of attic insulation is shown in the photo.

1 - Wooden truss system
2 - Rock wool insulation
3 - Vapor barrier film
4 - Superdiffusion membrane
5 - Sparse crate
6 - Sparse lathing of the ceiling of the living room
7 - Sparse lathing and wooden decking with roofing

In the attic - with the help of energy-saving materials. The roofing pie is ventilated in the same way as a hinged ventilated facade, with the help of counter beams that create channels for air movement and moisture removal from the structure. As a roofing layer, flexible tiles are used, which do not fade in the sun, do not deform under the influence of temperature and precipitation. It is also necessary when constructing roofs with complex geometry and the presence of protruding elements: skylights, pipes, antennas, aerators.

1 - Wooden rafter system 2 - Vapor barrier film

3 - Stone wool insulation 4 - Superdiffusion membrane

5 - Counter beam for creating a ventilation duct 6 - Sparse crate

7 - Wooden flooring 8 - Underlayment carpet 9 - Mastic for gluing shingles 10 - Multilayer shingles

The choice of insulation

Expanded polystyrene, basalt wool or polyurethane foam can serve as a material for insulating the attic of a private house, even ordinary sawdust is often used - a very dangerous solution in case of fire. A good insulation, especially for a wooden house, must have a whole range of additional properties: fire safety, vapor permeability, resistance to rodents and mold.

Modern manufacturers have stone wool slabs in their assortment. It is a lightweight hydrophobized, non-combustible heat and sound insulating material. In addition, ecowool based on natural components with improved environmental performance, service life of more than 100 years. Due to the optimal density ratio and the random arrangement of fibers, the boards do not shrink and absorb sound waves well.

Attic insulation plan

1. Dismantling of the old roofing

After dismantling the old roofing, you need to check the condition of the truss system. It may need to be increased. Then check the structures for damage by fungus, insects. If these problems exist, they should be changed. Treat all wooden structures with an antiseptic. It will protect the wood from insects, fungus and mold, and when exposed to critically high temperatures or fire, it will prevent the wood from sustaining combustion.

2. Attaching the vapor barrier film

Installation of the future attic wall begins with attaching a vapor barrier film to the rafters, from the inside of the room. The overlap of the material must be at least 10 cm. The film can be attached to the rafters using a construction stapler, and a continuous vapor barrier can be created using a special acrylic tape. With the help of this tape, the film sheets are glued together, gluing to walls and passage elements.

3. Base preparation

Next, on top of the vapor barrier film from the inside of the room, wooden boards are nailed at intervals of about 15 cm. They will serve as the basis for the interior decoration of the room.

4. Laying insulation

Laying effective is carried out already from the outside of the roof. The insulation scheme is very simple: the insulation is placed in the space between the rafters in three layers by surprise.

The recommended distance between the lags in this case is 600 mm (along the axes) or 580-590 mm "clearly". The width of the insulation boards is 600 mm, which allows you to lay the material in a spacer, without waste and extra effort for trimming. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated taking into account the characteristics of the construction region, as well as the purpose of the building.

It is important to ensure that the joints between the layers are made apart, this will avoid through possible gaps in the thermal insulation. It is recommended to use stone wool, as this material is non-combustible and easy to install. In this case, the thickness of the insulation is small.

Before laying in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cornice overhang between the rafters, it is necessary to attach a transverse board, which will prevent the insulation from falling out of the under-roof space.

5. Laying the hydro- and windproof membrane

The membrane does not allow moisture-saturated vapors of warm air from the side of the living room to pass into the system. It is attached to the rafters with a construction stapler, passes steam well from the roof structure and protects the insulation from getting wet and swelling the top layer. It is recommended to install the membrane from the cornice overhang up to the ridge, with an overlap of membrane tapes at a distance of at least 10 cm and mandatory gluing of the seams. From below, the ceiling is hemmed with large-sheet material: OSB-3 boards, plywood or plasterboard sheets.

It is very important not to lay a vapor barrier film on both sides of the insulation. This can lead to waterlogging of the material inside the system and the loss of thermal insulation properties of the slabs and the entire floor.

6. Creation of a ventilation system

To create the entire length of the rafters, over the membrane, bars with a section of 5 cm are nailed or screwed. This allows you to create the necessary ventilation duct from the eaves to the ridge to remove excess moisture. Thanks to this, in winter there will be no ice formations in the under-roof space, and the insulation will retain all energy-saving properties. It is important to consider that bars with a cross section of 5 cm are relevant when the slope is more than 20 degrees. If it is smaller, then you need a bar with a section of 8 cm.

Lathing boards are mounted horizontally over the bars, on which the boardwalk will then lie. The step of the crate is approximately 30 cm, it is selected depending on the thickness of the solid wooden flooring.

7. Installing the boardwalk

The last stage before installing a flexible tile system is the installation of a boardwalk made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB-3 boards. When laying the flooring, it is necessary to make a gap of 3-5 mm between the plates - it compensates for the expansion of the plates under the influence of temperature and moisture.

8. Laying shingles

It is produced using the same technology as for any pitched roof. Detailed step-by-step instructions for laying shingles on boardwalk can be found on our website or on the video.

Thanks to stone wool insulation, OSB-3 board and flexible tiles, the construction has high noise-insulating and energy-saving properties. And the problem of warming the ceilings of a cold attic is solved in a few days.