Councils for the construction and finishing of baths. The secret of a good bath

16.09.2016

Almost every person understands what it is used for, which means that you should not stop there. After the bustle of the city and running around, relaxing in such a bath will be a real pleasure. This pleasure will be triple powerful if you do this. Sometimes people prefer to create this type of comfort for themselves in the form of a bath, however, for this you will have to spend considerable time choosing the appropriate materials, boards, beams for floors and ceilings, rafters - everything that is needed for quality work. Still, this is all an extra waste of time and effort, plus it is often not always possible to provide an appropriate level of quality. Therefore, it is customary to use the opportunity to order these works in construction company, which can guarantee the complete set and assembly of baths.

Russian sauna

Let's start with a simple one, whose outer walls are usually built from round logs. Coniferous trees are recommended for this - pine, spruce. However, not everyone knows that not every pine is suitable for the construction of a bathhouse, that is, not every wood will be durable in this form. For a bath that is being built in middle lane, experts recommend choosing spruce or pine from the northern region. They grow in a climate similar to ours, but much more slowly than ours, making their wood denser. Hence the low moisture content of the wood; besides, this log is also gaining moisture to a lesser extent. You can undoubtedly choose southern pine - it is more porous, but in this case, do not be surprised if after a couple of years lower crown your favorite bath will start. The secrets of building a bath are also in the fact that the diameter of the logs used for this should be 20-25 centimeters: thinner - fraught with heat loss, thicker - bulky and inconvenient in construction.

In rural areas baths "for the whole family" are well-spread. Their sizes can be different, it depends on the number of co-washable.

It is necessary to build tightly, laying them to the depth of freezing. Heavy walls made of concrete, red brick and stone are placed on a solid strip foundation based on well-burned red brick, rubble stone, or iron ore, concrete. Red slit and silicate brick unsuitable for laying foundations. The wooden foundation is quickly destroyed. The base is erected 0.5 m above ground level, its top is leveled with a cement solution in a ratio of 1: 3 (cement: sand).

Concrete, brick and stone walls are strong, but cold. As they heat up and cool down, they condense intensely, as a result of which water smudges usually appear on them. Wooden floors and the walls avoid it. They heat up easily and do not allow condensation to appear, and if the wood is dry, then the condensate is immediately absorbed into it. Subsequently, it is recommended to go through the felling of the log house tow and logs with an anti-rotten antiseptic, after which it is good to dry everything and only after some time to be taken for assembly and careful caulking. Regardless of the material of manufacture, the walls can be plastered on one or both sides with a mortar of cement and lime. Laying should be done on the same solution.

It can be plank, slate, roofing felt, tiled, ruberoid, reed, straw, steel. Its overhang is lowered onto the walls by at least 50 cm. It is recommended to make the attic area ventilated. Some time before the firebox, the windows for ventilation of the attic area are closed.

Window in the washroom

They put one window in, placing it no higher than one meter from the floor, 40-60 wide and 60-70 cm high. It is most likely to create two frames, leaving a distance of 10-15 cm between them. Glasses are recommended to be installed on double putty. The gaps between (themselves) frames and the box are treated with putty so that heat does not escape through them. At night, artificial light is used. Electric and kerosene lamps must be protected from drops of water in order to avoid cracking and causing severe injury to those present. Electric lights are very convenient in the baths. must be made of strongly insulated wires.

dressing room

The bath invariably consists of a washing room. It is preferable that the waiting room was warm and served as a dressing room. So that it cools down to a lesser extent, before front door it is necessary to organize an extension with a door. To heat the waiting room, one side of the stove should protrude into it, sometimes from the side of the firebox. To organize a locker room, a bench and hangers are needed. The window in the dressing room can be the same size as in the washing room, or maybe different. Bindings are also desirable double. If your dressing room is cool, then you need to take off your clothes in the washing room, but so as not to wet your clothes with water.

The floors in the bath are laid in different ways. But regardless of the floor structure, the plant layer is cut to a depth of at least 15 cm. their tight tamping. The earthen floor is the simplest, but the water soon turns it into a swamp. Boards laid directly on the ground greatly improve it. Some secrets of building a bath say that the clay floor does not let water through at all, or it does, but very little. The boards laid on it are often below the level of the water drained during the washing process, which is not hygienic, because the boards subsequently deteriorate from time to time and emit an undesirable smell. To improve earthen floors, they proceed as follows: they retreat 50 cm from the foundation, choose the earth to a depth of at least 50 cm (the deeper, the better) and gravel or sand is poured into the pit formed in this way. Gravel is subsequently backfilled with sand, after which boards are laid. In this case, the water will not linger and flows into the pit, and then is absorbed into the ground. The odors from this water in this case are negligible.

Internal processing

The internal processing of the bath also has its own specifics. Usually, aspen is used for wall cladding inside, less often - poplar or alder. The same species are used for finishing saunas, as well as linden and cedar. The tree of all these species is moisture resistant, little susceptible to splitting and splitting, in turn, has a low heat capacity - it does not heat up even at high temperatures. In addition, these rocks do not actually exude resin. Although many people like their aroma, however, when heated to a high temperature, resinous tree species emit aromatic pinene, which in large concentration leads to toxic poisoning, and therefore can negate the entire healing effect of the bath. For the construction of shelves, backs and fences, sometimes an exotic African tree is used - abachi, on which it is allowed to stay in the sauna even at especially high temperatures. But this wood is quite expensive.

Conclusion

So, a properly built bath on its territory is the best thing. After all, the bath will bring you great benefit, unforgettable pleasure and pleasant minutes spent in the steam room and shower.

After you have chosen the material for finishing the bath and chose the siding, because it can be a pretty decent amount that you may not be able to pull, and in this case you will have to do everything yourself.

Probably, almost everyone would like to have a full bath on the site. The pleasure of hot steam, the smell of wood and goosebumps after a basin of cold water cannot be compared with anything. However, if mistakes were made during construction, expectations will be thoroughly ruined. Let's talk about how you can avoid such mistakes.

Traditional Russian bath

As a rule, for the construction of external walls is used round wood. It is well known that for this purpose it is recommended to use conifers trees: pine or spruce. But not everyone knows that not every pine is suitable for building a bath, not every tree is durable. So, for a bathhouse being built in the middle lane, it is recommended to pick up spruce or pine trees growing in northern regions, for example, in Karelia. The climate of these places is quite similar, but northern trees grow more slowly and therefore have denser wood, which leads to low moisture content and slow water intake. You can also order a more porous pine grown in the south. But in this case, you should not be surprised when, in a couple of years, the lower crown of the bath begins to rot. Optimum diameter logs for a bath will be 20-25 centimeters. A large thickness will be inconvenient in installation, and thin logs will lead to heat loss in the room.

Before construction, you should decide how many people the bath is designed for. If the owner is going to receive companies of guests or use the bathhouse as a family bath, then its size will be the same, and if the bathhouse is designed to receive 1-2 people, then there is no need to spend extra material, and also heat large area more difficult.

The foundation must be laid to the depth of soil freezing. If the walls are built of concrete, stone or red brick, then it is necessary to build a solid strip foundation made of the same well-fired brick, stone or iron ore. Silicate or red slotted bricks are unsuitable for laying foundations, and wooden foundation break down very quickly. The foundation is being erected half a meter above ground level, and its top is equal to cement mortar.

Concrete, brick, stone walls have high strength, but are cold. During cooling and heating, such a wall condenses heavily, and smudges appear on it. At wooden walls and overlaps, this drawback is absent. They heat up quickly, so condensate does not have time to form, if the wood is dry, the condensate is immediately absorbed.

After the log house is cut down, tow and logs are treated with an anti-rotten antiseptic and dried well. Assembly and caulking can only be started after such procedures.

The roof of the bath can be made from almost any material: iron boards, roofing felts, roofing material, tiles, slate, straw. The overhang of the roof is laid on the walls at a distance of at least 50 centimeters. It is desirable to make the attic space ventilated. Windows intended for attic ventilation are closed in front of the firebox.

In the washing department, one window is arranged, which should be no higher than a meter from the floor. The height of the window is 60-70 centimeters, and the width is 40-60 centimeters. It is best to make two frames at a distance of 10-15 centimeters. Glasses are put on double putty. The gaps between the box and the frame are also treated with putty.

Lamps (even electric, even kerosene) are protected from splashes, electrical wiring is made of wires with reliable insulation.

The bath should consist of at least two rooms: a dressing room and a washing room. It is good when the dressing room is warm and at the same time serves as a dressing room. For less cooling of the dressing room, a vestibule with a second door is arranged in front of the front door. The bindings of the windows of the dressing room should also be double. If the dressing room is cold, you will have to undress in the washing room, which is very inconvenient.

Floor

Floors can be arranged in different ways. Regardless of the design of the floor structure, the soil layer is cut off by no less than 15 centimeters. If it becomes necessary to level or raise the floor, crushed stone, sand, gravel, slag or earth compacted with a heavy rammer is used. The floor from the earth is the simplest, but because of the water it turns into mud. Boards laid on the ground can improve it a little. A clay floor either does not let moisture through at all, or does not let it through enough. As a result, the boards laid on top of the clay are below the level of the water drained in the process. This is both inconvenient and unhygienic. The quality of the dirt floor can be improved as follows. They retreat from the foundation by 50 centimeters, no less than the soil is chosen to the same depth, and gravel or sand is poured in its place. If gravel is laid, then it is backfilled with sand, and boards are laid. In this case, the water will not linger, but will drain into the pit and the field of this will be absorbed into the ground.

The device of any floor requires the removal of water from the territory of the bath. Minimum distance branch - 2-3 meters. This would be the simplest option. They retreat from the foundation by 50 centimeters, choose soil to a depth of at least 1.5 meters (smaller depth can lead to freezing of water). A 2-3 meter trench is dug under the foundation from the pit to the well with a sufficiently large volume. The trench, the bottom of the pit and the soil near the foundation (but not the walls and bottom of the well) are covered with a layer of greasy and thick clay. The clay is leveled, the trench is shaped like a tray with a slight slope towards the street. The pit inside the bath and the inside of the trench are completely covered with gravel and sand on top. The outer part of the trench and the well are covered with sand and gravel, on top of which the previously excavated soil is carefully rammed. Such a device will fully ensure the drainage of water, especially if the soil of the well absorbs it well.

It is worth remembering that the considered water drainage requires cleaning over time. Soil pores will become clogged soapy water, and this will lead to the fact that the well will stop flowing water. Water can also be diverted to another place (for example, a ravine), but often this requires obtaining permission from the sanitary inspection.

It is quite possible to lay floorboards directly on sand or gravel, but it is better if they are laid on logs (beams) raised at least 10 centimeters above the level of the subfloor. Logs are laid on columns made of brick, concrete or even large stones. The boards are laid up with the convex side up and fastened with nails. There must be a gap of 0.5-1 centimeter between the boards. If you lay them close together, then getting wet will cause the board to swell and swell.

The dirt floor can be covered with greasy clay with a drain directed towards the drain. However, if the clay swells when wet and does not allow moisture to pass through, then after drying it will crack. Therefore, it is desirable to cover it with a 2-centimeter cement layer.

Another option is the device concrete preparation, after which the floor is covered with cement mortar, leveled and smoothed. Ceramic tiles can also be laid on top of the cement. But such a floor does not hold heat, so wooden gratings must be laid on top of the tiles. Water flow will be provided by concrete, ceramic or asbestos-cement pipes. If you arrange wooden boxes for draining, they will quickly rot, and steel ones will collapse from rust. Diameter drain pipe should be at least 5-10 centimeters, they are laid with the desired slope at the freezing depth. Before entering the pipe, the water is directed to a drain, which is either made of concrete or steel with a nozzle above the bottom, and metal plate, also slightly receding from the bottom and set at an angle. From above the ladder is closed by a lattice cover. This creates a water seal that will not allow cold air and the smell of stagnant water to enter the bath.

Furnaces

There are many types of ovens. During laying, the seams should be carefully tied up, the seams themselves should be as thin as possible. The walls are made as thick as a brick or half of it. Heat-resistant red bricks are used. The outlet of the furnace can be located both in the washing room and in the dressing room. When the firebox is in the waiting room, the remaining three walls of the furnace should go into the washing room. There should be no junction between the walls of the furnace and the bath, the distance between them is at least 25 centimeters. In this case, all the heat will go into the room.

Most often, a stove-heater is built in the bathhouse, which not only heats the water and heats the room, but also provides dry steam for the steam room. To do this, a chamber is built in the furnace, in which stones weighing up to 5 kilograms are placed: granite, pebbles, but. Do not use flint, limestone or marble. Flint cracks when heated and flies off in pieces, especially if water gets on it. And limestone with marble is fired and turned into lime. It is good to add cast iron ingots to the stones in the chamber. The amount of stone required is taken at the rate of 6 kilograms per cubic meter of steam room. A door is arranged in the chamber leading to the steam room compartment.

The doors of the furnace furnaces are made in sizes 220x160 - 270x265 millimeters. Boilers and tanks hot water taken in the calculation of 6-7 liters of water with a temperature of up to 50 degrees per person. If the water is heated more, then it will need less. Cold water calculated on a slightly larger scale. During installation, tanks and boilers can be supported by the sides on the stove masonry, walls or brick columns inside the furnace or suspended on a wire from the upper beam. They can be equipped with taps welded low above the bottom. To prevent the pipes from burning out, it is recommended to insulate them with bricks or wrap them with asbestos. When erecting a furnace, it is necessary to provide a space between its walls and the walls of the boiler, in this case the hot air will wash the boiler and heat the water faster.

By and large, it is the quality of the heater that determines the quality of the sauna itself. The market offers big choice such devices, so it is quite possible to simply buy a stove, and not order or build it yourself. Some models allow you to create different climatic conditions. Electric ovens suitable for small saunas with a volume of steam rooms up to 10 cubic meters. Calculated required power depending on the volume: 1 kilowatt of power per 1 cubic meter of volume. Kamenka stoves can also run on gas, this option is more economical than electric. They are also more profitable in comparison with wood-burning ones, as they reduce the heating time.

It is also important what kind of thrust the furnace will have. It largely depends on the height of the pipe. In places attic floor the pipe has fluff or cutting. Rafters and roof lathing should be located no closer than 15 centimeters from the pipe. The gap can be closed with slate, roofing steel or shingles.

Interior decoration

In interior decoration it is desirable to use wood that does not warp from moisture and does not contain a large number of resins. For our latitudes, hardwoods are suitable for these requirements: linden, aspen, birch. Cedar or even pine can be used, but only after a certain treatment. The African abachi tree also began to enjoy popularity.

The inner lining is made of tightly fitting vertically arranged boards. From the inside, the boards are not painted, the paint can release harmful substances and impair vapor permeability.

Up to a meter high, the walls of the steam room can be covered with glazed tiles - this will help to clean the most polluted lower part. The floor and ceilings in all rooms are sheathed with plinth. The plinth on the floor must be waterproof and at least 10 centimeters high. The bottom rows of the inner lining are superimposed on the plinth so that moisture from the walls cannot get behind it.

The floors in the bath cannot be insulated, because otherwise the water falling on it will not be able to leave and will cause rotting. For better drainage, the floors are made with a slope towards the drain, and to simplify cleaning, they lay out ceramic tiles.

The temperature and humidity conditions make special demands on doors. They can be made from solid wood, but glued wood is best.

Lighting

As mentioned above, windows should be small to reduce heat loss. In large rooms, light openings are made of heat-efficient double-glazed windows.

Usually the electric lighting of the bath is dim, indirect light and lamps with wooden lampshades are preferable. Do not use fluorescent lamps. Typically, light sources are located on top of the wall or ceiling so that the light does not enter the eyes. In a large room, it can also be located under the benches. A prerequisite is stainless plafonds. The switches are placed behind the steam room, and the wires are hidden behind the vapor barrier.

Internal organization

For the steam room, durable wood is made that does not contain resin and leaves no traces of sweat. Aspen is very good for these purposes. The edges of the bench planks are rounded, carefully sanded and sanded to remove the smallest burrs and irregularities. The slats are spaced apart and screwed on from below. It is preferable to use strips with a small width - they dry faster. In this case, the distance between the supports depends on the thickness of the slats.

The width of the plank should be 4 times its thickness. It is best to attach the benches to the walls, then the floor will be free and easier to clean. A gap is left between the nearest plank and the wall, which will allow moisture to flow freely along the wall and facilitate the dismantling of the benches. It is better to make the upper bench rising - this will allow you to fix it in the upper position.

It will be useful to provide benches with footrests and removable headrests made of poplar or aspen. The supplies will keep your feet at a level above your head. They are attached on separate racks or directly on the wall. The backs are made from a solid board or, similarly to a bench, from planks. The backrest is installed at a distance from the wall.

Usually the washing room is arranged quite simply and is a shower stall equipped with a small bench and shelves for accessories. It is also necessary to provide a place for storing scoops, buckets, brooms, and other bath accessories.

The locker room is adapted for the rest needed after the pair procedures, this requires sufficient comfort. When designing, it should be taken into account that for one person you need at least 60 centimeters of a bench with a width of at least 40 centimeters. If the bench will also be used for lying, its width should be greater. A mirror and a small table should be provided in the locker room.

Wood finish and rot protection

A properly constructed and operated bath does not require special protection against decay. The smoke and heat will protect the wood themselves. Chemical antiseptics are generally unacceptable because of their toxicity and bad smell. Boards must not be oiled, painted, waxed or varnished.
Get dark color wood, conducive to the creation of a comfortable interior, can be done using two methods: firing with a blowtorch or using pyrogallol. In the first case, the surface after firing is treated with sandpaper, and in the second - with ammonia vapor. At first wooden surfaces dried and cleaned metal surfaces are closed, an even layer of 3-5% pyrogallol solution is applied, and shallow vessels with ammonia are placed on the floor. The room is closed for 15 minutes, after which it is ventilated and, if necessary, the operation is repeated.

Although the bath was planned as a budget one, certain requirements were imposed on it. Namely: the firebox is separate from the steam room and sink (so that there is no garbage from firewood) and the presence of a rest room with a kitchenette.

Excess?

In my youth, I probably would have managed without these benefits, but now - age, you know, has taught me to appreciate more or less comfort.

In general, I brainstormed and drew my project. Dimensions: 4 × 8 m. I made the bath frame, with a heater 10 cm thick. The roof and walls are covered with metal profile sheets from the outside (photo 1). Inside the shower room plastic panels(photo 2), in the steam room - aspen lining (photo 3).

For fire safety lined the walls near the stove with glass-magnesite sheets (they are also colloquially called LSU or KVL).

Good thing: environmentally friendly, non-flammable, lightweight and easy to process. In the steam room he closed them with galvanized iron, and in, around the firebox - with ordinary ceramic tiles (photo 4), which he also put on the floor. It turned out very practical, and, again. fireproof.

The heart of my bath is, of course, the steam room.

The temperature of 100-120° in summer is reached within 30-40 minutes, but at first there were problems with water heating. The heat exchanger (water circuit) did not have time to heat even two buckets of water to 50 ° by this time.

I had to improve the design. The first thing I did was to connect the circuit to the tank (and that, in turn, to the water supply and drain) using corrugated pipes stainless steel and fittings. AT right places installed ball valves.

There were no difficulties during installation: I made all the bends of the pipes without much effort with my bare hands, and tightened the connections with an ordinary wrench. To improve water heating, the pipe from the heat exchanger was wrapped around the flue several times (photo 5). And for draining water winter period removed from the heat exchanger additional pipe with a faucet. After that, everything became like in a pharmacy. In order not to get burned, I framed both the oven and the tank around the edges wooden slats.

To obtain “soft” steam, I put a metal tube with a funnel under the bottom of the heater, into which water with herbal infusions is poured. The steam then passes through the entire thickness of the stones and evenly diverges throughout the steam room.

Well, if my guests want steam that burns their ears, then they can splash water directly on the heater. At temperatures above 100° the difference in sensations is very noticeable!

Ventilation in the steam room is carried out through a window under the ceiling and an outlet with a curtain near the floor. For convenience, the top shelf has a headrest and an additional rail along the wall to hold on to. The bottom shelf can slide under the top shelf when cleaning. And for little lovers of steam there is a small bench.

Lighting is carried out in fireproof corrugated hoses with a special heat-resistant wire made of silicon-organic rubber, which can withstand temperatures from -40° to +180°. Plafonds are also special. I do not advise you to neglect fire safety rules.

Thermometer and hygrometer allow you to monitor the comfort in the steam room.

After a year of operation of the bath, it became necessary to install pumping station. Thanks to her, there is no need to carry and store water, and you can take a shower at any time. To drain water from the entire system of the bath and the rest room, there is a tap under the bench in the shower room, from where it goes through a ladder with a water seal in the floor into the sewer.

In the same place, under the bench, basins for washing are stored. On the walls there are hangers for clothes, towels and bath accessories and shelves for everything you need in the bath.

After the steam room it is very pleasant to plunge into the river, which we do from May to November inclusive.

Feelings can not be expressed in words!

After shock work on the site, all fatigue disappears in a couple of seconds! And at the end of the bath procedure, it is so nice to drink tea with pies and relax with your granddaughters in the relaxation room, where there is a small stove-fireplace, a modest kitchenette with a microwave and a refrigerator, as well as two beds.

How to fit a bath in the design of the site

Our bathhouse became the first object of the future harmonious complex, in which subsequently a small pool, an alpine hill, a stream with a decorative humpback bridge thrown over it appeared.

The bathhouse was the first to appear on the site, then the pool bowl was cast, paths and other elements of the landscape appeared.

The pool was a great addition to the bath. After all, how pleasant it is to complete the bathing procedure by jumping into cool water! But you do not bathe in the bath every day. Therefore, the main value of the reservoir is that it has become the center of a whole landscape complex, which constantly pleases the eyes of the owners of the site.

It all started with laying tracks. As in any business, here it was necessary to think through all the subtleties. Only in appearance the tape of tracks seems to be monolithic. In fact, it consists of individual slabs 1 meter long each. A truly monolithic track would have been torn apart over time. The thickness of each plate is at least 10 cm. A special reinforcing mesh is laid inside.

The bowl of the pool is also reinforced concrete, the thickness of its walls is at least 20 cm. The flanging forming the coastline was cast simultaneously with the walls. The concrete structure is separated from the ground by a waterproof film.

Water enters the pool along the bed of an artificial stream, laid from Alpine slide. Of course, it would be easier and cheaper to lay an ordinary pipe to the pool and supply water through it, but such beauty and joy that a babbling stream gives today would not work.

The rock garden looks beautiful from anywhere in the site, but it is especially good when you admire it from a small humpbacked bridge thrown over the stream just before it flows into the pool. The bridge has no special functional significance, but it has become a wonderful decoration of the site.

It was extremely important to arrange a reliable water filtration and disinfection system in the pool. Without this, the water in the pool would quickly become polluted and bloom. In addition to the fact that this system ensures the purity of the water in the pool, it maintains its required level, and, if necessary, allows you to quickly drain the water from the pool.

If we compare in percentage terms the financial and labor costs for the entire complex as a whole and for the pool, then the lion's share falls on the latter. But the joy that gives the owners the opportunity to have a pond on the site pays for all the work with interest.

Thus, the bathhouse, the pool adjacent to it, the stream and the bridge formed a single harmonious complex that perfectly fit into the overall landscape of the site, giving it a special charm. The complex would not be so beautiful if it were not surrounded by numerous plants carefully selected by the owners, the care of which costs them a lot of work, but also brings great joy.

The seemingly monolithic tape of the track is divided into separate reinforced concrete slabs at least 10 cm thick and 1 m long each.

The pool bowl with a flanging forming the coastline is made of monolithic reinforced concrete with a wall thickness of at least 20 cm.

The water begins its way to the pool from an alpine hill, where it flows down in three cascades of a mini-waterfall into the bed of a stream and runs under the overpass and flows into the pool.

Anyone can cool off in the pool.

Publications: 60

24.01.2017

It seems that so much has already been written and said about bathhouse construction that everyone knows everything in this matter. Nevertheless, no, and an unsuccessful bathhouse appears somewhere. After all, it only takes one mistake. And the whole result is in vain!

To help those who are planning to build their own bath, we have collected recommendations for groups of questions. Brief structured guide.

About choosing a place for a bath

According to people experienced in construction matters, you can put a bathhouse everywhere. It used to be that they tried to build it away from the residential building, so that in the event of a fire in the building (and this often happened in the old days), the fire would not spread to the house.

Currently, thanks to new materials and technologies, the bath is a fairly safe structure. It is no coincidence that many owners of suburban real estate equip it even inside a residential building, having previously, of course, thought about an effective ventilation system.

The only thing is that when choosing a place for a bath, it is necessary to take into account the relief, soil, as well as the dominant wind direction in the construction area, and so on.

About the size of the bath

There is no single answer to the question of what size to build a bath. Each has its own needs and possibilities. Someone needs a bath of 120 square meters, where, in addition to traditional bath attributes, such as a steam room and a washing room, there is a pool, a fireplace room, billiards and so on. For someone, a paired compartment with an area of ​​​​3 x 3 is enough square meters and the same size compartment for washing. By the way, it is this size that is considered optimal in order to take a steam bath and wash normally. In general, we will assume that a normal bath will fit perfectly in a log house of 3 x 6 square meters.

About the foundation for the bath

According to experienced builders, a foundation is not required for an ordinary chopped bath with dimensions of 3 x 6 "squares". Such a structure can simply be placed on sleepers or on a gun carriage (semi-beam) well impregnated with an antiseptic. That is, the roofing material is laid on a sand bed, then a gun carriage goes, and then a bath is placed.

As for the chopped bath, the dimensions of which are much larger than the traditional ones, here you can’t do without a real foundation. Without fail, the foundation is required and under frame bath, because the frames "do not like" even small movements of the soil. The type of foundation in this case will depend on the soil conditions - it can be buried, not buried. Therefore, you need to know the geology of the site and understand what kind of soil is under the structure.

About bath materials

Of what materials are baths built today! Both frame and timber are erected, but chopped baths are still the most common. According to many builders, the best tree for these purposes - pine, because inside the "pine" bath long time a resinous smell will reign. But here ceiling beams it is better not to make it from this material, and it is better not to put coniferous boards on the ceiling, otherwise it will be heated from softwood lumber resin will drip onto the head. It is best to use aspen boards for these purposes, especially since they are not afraid of moisture, which means they are among the most durable materials. By the way, aspen lining is the most practical solution for wall cladding inside the bath.

What else do people experienced in construction and bathing advise? They advise from inside the room soak nothing, because any impregnation is chemistry. What must be impregnated without fail is the carriage under the bath.

For groove insulation in chopped bath moss is best. The rest of the solutions are not very environmentally friendly, plus they do not provide uniform closing of the grooves.

A few words about baths from a bar. A timber is the same log from which the densest outer wood has been removed. This material absorbs moisture more strongly, respectively, rots faster. So the walls in the washing departments and the steam room from the inside must be wrapped with a vapor barrier. And better than foil (foil holds temperature well, does not emit harmful substances). Then, along the foil, the walls should already be sheathed with clapboard.

About the arrangement of the steam room

Now about that, without which not a single bath is conceivable, that is, about the steam room. The main rule here is safety. The steam room should be arranged in such a way that it was impossible to burn or burn yourself in it. To solve the first problem, it is better to place the stove where the chimney is not completely blocked by a damper. Now, for safety, special holes are made in the damper. If the damper closes completely, then the risk of getting burned increases greatly. Someone will say that when the damper is not completely closed, the heat escapes. What can be answered here? Of course, there are heat losses, but they are scanty, but waste is excluded.

When placing the stove in a bathhouse, it is imperative to install a heat shield. It can be made of brick or some non-combustible sheet, such as metal. During operation, it is necessary to check the space between the wall and the screen all the time. It must not be clogged, otherwise a fire may occur. Remember the distance between internal surfaces chimneys and combustible materials should be 38 cm.

When arranging a steam room, one must also remember that in the steam room in the sitting places, the heads of nails and self-tapping screws must be recessed into the tree, otherwise burns cannot be avoided.

A Russian banya should smell like freshly planed wood and birch broom, don't you agree?!

And there is no greater pleasure than inhaling this heated smell of wood, feeling hot steam and goosebumps all over your body after a bowl of ice water ..

What place on the site to allocate for a bath?

Traditional Russian sauna- This is a detached log building. If on personal plot or there is a lake, river or stream near it, you are incredibly lucky! Best place for baths than near a natural reservoir with clean fresh water water, difficult to find! But this is not at all a prerequisite. After all, a natural reservoir can be replaced by an artificial one, for example, a pool!

It happens that they want to combine the bath with the house. And it's possible! But it is necessary to think over the optimal arrangement of waterproofing, ventilation and sewerage systems. And, of course, you need to provide reliable system fire safety.

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What should be the bath?

She, as a rule, the bath should have three sections: washing, steam room and rest room(dressing room, locker room).

Entrance door to the bath best to do south, because in winter time with south side fewer snowdrifts and they melt faster.

BUT bath windows- on the western or southwestern facade, since the bath is usually heated in the evening, and the rays of the evening sun penetrate the windows for a long time.

To decide on overall dimensions of the bath, which you want to build, you can use the minimum standards: for each person there must be at least 1 square. square meters steam rooms and 1.3 - 1.5 sq. m dressing room. Let's say you are counting on a bath for 3 or 4 people. Then the steam room should be made about 4 square meters. m.

For example, like this: the length of the steam room is 2.5 m, the width is 1.5 m along inner wall. The area of ​​the steam room will be 3.75 sq. m. Such an area of ​​​​the steam room will give you the comfort that you will never regret. For further calculation, use the ratio "steam room-washing room" - 1:2:3. This ratio has been tested in practice.

Optimal dimensions log house it is customary to consider 3x5 m or 3x6 m. Please note: bath house, and not a frame structure around the log cabin of the steam room! I.e the entire structure must be made into a single frame.

For example, a five-wall 3x5m, where 1.5-2.0 m is the width of the steam room, the remaining 3.5-4 m is the washing room, and the rest room is upstairs, under the roof, in the attic. A log house will give you that comfort that you will never have if you just create frame walls around the steam room. And believe in financial terms on the frame version you will also lose a lot.

Will we install windows in the bath?

Bath windows usually small in size: 450-600 mm high, 650-800 mm wide.

In the pair department, there is no need for a window at all, but for some reason it is often considered mandatory. In the steam room, you just need to make a couple of vents for ventilation: small holes on different levels and in opposite corners, which must be closed with an insulated inserted wooden plug both from the outside and from the inside.

How to insulate the ceiling of the bath?

An important point in construction baths is the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

Use modern basalt or mineral wool insulation as thermal insulation in the washing room. But in the steam room, it is better to cover the ceiling with a layer of earth, peat, sawdust or a layer of dry foliage, on top of which is expanded clay, especially since it is here that the chimney exits through the ceiling, so it is better to use expanded clay as a non-combustible material.

How to insulate the floor of the bath?

ground under wooden floor it is necessary to fill it with a layer of sand and gravel or a sand-gravel mixture as a drainage, with a slope towards the drainage pits. From such a surface, moisture evaporates faster and water does not stagnate.

From the washing room and from the steam room from the drainage pits, which are also filled with gravel, bring the drainage pipes out. For a greater guarantee on the drainage layer of the ASG, lay PVC sheets along which water will immediately roll into the drainage pits. These activities will definitely give you a guarantee that floor boards will serve for a long time.

What else do you need to think about before starting the construction of a bath?

All other nuances with independent construction of a bath many people know: the logs will need to be sanded, polished with an electric grinder, outside and inside (except for the steam room) cover with an antiseptic, etc. In the steam room, all wooden surfaces can be left natural or covered with a “sauna” composition. And it is best to make all the furniture, especially inside the steam room, from aspen. Aspen does not rot, thanks to which it serves for decades.

What stove to put in the bath?

House with sauna for sale! Wonderful homestead - inexpensive!!!

- the heart of the bath, its main unit! If you make the oven yourself, then its walls should be made of thick steel, and the water tank should be top-mounted. So that the water does not boil all the time while we are steaming, and so that the air in the steam room is not moistened so quickly, with top installation tank, you can simply put an asbestos sheet under the bottom of the tank. Then the air in the steam room will be dry. And, of course, we put the furnace in the furnace washing department or outside the log house. On three sides of the stove in the steam room, we lay out a half-brick wall as high as the stove, while at the same time making out an arched opening for the firebox in the washing room. Looks nice and is easy to use.