How to insulate a frame house from the outside. Frame house insulation

Russia is a country with a changeable climate, long cold winters, the need to constantly insulate and heat your home. Residents are forced to either increase the thickness of the walls of houses, or install additional heating devices, or decide how to insulate a frame house for winter living. The first two options lead to increased costs. The third deserves special attention and consideration.

In the world, frame technology is becoming more and more relevant and in demand in individual housing construction. The ancestor was Canada, a significant part of which is located beyond the Arctic Circle. At the current time, the following advantages of the frame method are known, which allows you to get a warm house:

• fast erection. No more than a month passes from the “first nail” to the commissioning. significantly speed up the construction process.
• walls, load-bearing structures are light in weight. The load on the foundation is reduced. You can limit yourself to shallow tape;
• appropriate impregnation and treatment is sufficient to make the building absolutely safe and resistant to fire. In modern frame houses, both convector and gas heating, and heating with electricity are used. It is enough to solve ventilation problems at the stage of completed construction, and there will be no condensation, no mold, no pathogenic microbes on the walls. And the walls will not get excessively hot, which could theoretically lead to a fire.

Many, after reading the reviews and comments, mistakenly believe that frame houses are operated exclusively in the summer, in the fall the building is mothballed until spring and is not used in the winter. Our article will tell you how to competently conduct insulation, when it is best to do it, in order to avoid unnecessary heating costs. And you decide whether to live here year-round or not, how to properly preserve the frame house until warm days, and whether it is worth fearing that the building will collapse under the influence of temperature changes.

External and internal insulation

To insulate the building from the outside or from the inside, it is better to determine at the construction stage. Not only the labor intensity and technology of work, but also financial costs will depend on this. Warming is done either from the outside or from the inside. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. Before making a choice, carefully study both options.

External insulation

External insulation is characterized by the following:

• work is carried out at any time, after the completion of construction and commissioning of the building, nothing will have to be dismantled, rebuilt;
• as a heater, either polystyrene (in the modern variation, fire-resistant foam) or mineral wool in sheets, mats, rolls is used. Each of these materials will not only keep the heat inside the room, but also prevent the house from getting too hot in the summer under the sun's rays;
• the wooden base of the building, which is characterized by low thermal conductivity, will be turned inside the room. Less energy is spent on warming up the house and maintaining the set temperature.

Internal insulation

From the inside, it is better to insulate the building before the installation of drywall and finishing work. Otherwise, you will have to re-plaster, paint, glue wallpaper. Result? Additional costs, it will take more time to complete the cycle of preparing the building for use and restoring its original appearance.

Be sure to mention the following disadvantages of internal insulation:

• cold air from the street will pass through the facing materials and collide with the heat stored inside. Condensation will accumulate between the layers of SIP panels or frame walls, inevitably leading to the formation of mold, fungal colonies, and premature failure of the walls;
• the facade does not receive protection from the sun, moisture, temperature changes. Strong winds, numerous freeze/warm cycles will also bring the moment of repair or complete rebuilding of the building closer.

The choice of material for insulation

When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to the following qualities:

1. Environmental Safety. The material should not become a source of toxic smoke, harmful volatile substances.
2. Resistant to fire and high temperatures. High-quality insulation can withstand direct exposure to fire for several minutes without changing the structure. The building should not flash like a match.
3. Reduced heat losses. Brick is the main material for the construction of private houses. But heat preservation in sufficient volume is possible if the walls are laid out with a thickness of up to 1 meter. In frame housing construction, the thickness of the outer walls does not exceed 20 cm. And the insulation layer should be enough to live in the building not only in summer, but also in the coldest months, if it is heated in standard mode.
4. Strength, resistance to deformation, preservation of the original shape during the entire period of operation. It is important to understand that the layers of insulation will be under the lining, siding, drywall and other finishing materials. It will be impossible to check the absence of defects. If the insulation deforms in a year or two, cold bridges will appear in the walls, “eating up” all the heat from the heating system.
5. Price. Frame housing construction is valued due to the low cost of materials, components and the assembly process. And carrying out insulation should not lead to a rise in the cost of the entire building by a factor of two or three.

Sheets of expanded polystyrene (foam)

The material is lightweight. This quality is important if additional insulation is not planned at the construction stage. There will be no additional load on the supporting structures. Among other advantages, we highlight:

• immunity to temperature changes. Numerous freeze/thaw cycles do not change the internal structure;
• water does not penetrate inside the cells, does not freeze there and does not cause cracks, deformation.

But it is important to understand that polystyrene foam and its modifications are not perfect. Among the negative qualities we highlight:

• instability to high temperatures, rapid ignition;
• under mechanical shocks, expanded polystyrene is deformed, the sheets will have to be changed;
• the room will become a kind of thermos due to low air permeability.

The use of mineral wool for insulation

In popularity, the material surpasses all others for the following reasons:

• designed for installation both on the outer and on the inner surface of the walls;
• does not absorb and does not emit harmful substances, does not burn, does not smolder;
• excellent heat and sound insulator with low weight;
• roll material is used when working with curved surfaces, corners, arches.

There are also disadvantages:

• waterproofing should not be neglected. If the cotton wool gets wet, its protective properties will be leveled;
• good fastening required. Sheets or mats should not sag, move away from the wall.

How to insulate the facade

The warming procedure involves several successive stages:

• surface cleaning. The cracks must be carefully puttied, sealed with a special adhesive mass;
• applying a primer that improves adhesion;
• installation of sheets of foam plastic, mineral wool. Self-tapping screws, anchors, other fasteners should not be used. Between the base and the insulation, gaps and gaps are unacceptable;
• laying a waterproofing membrane that protects against street moisture, and installation of facing material. Preliminary treatment is carried out with antiseptics from rotting, mold, fires.

How to insulate a sheathed house from the inside

It is better not to postpone this option for a period when people already live in the house, wallpaper is pasted. As soon as the installation of the frame is completed, the antiseptic treatment is carried out, start the insulation work in the following order:

• a vapor barrier membrane is glued to the base. The smooth side faces the room;
• further guides are attached, between which mineral wool is placed. For fastening, either a special adhesive composition or dowels with a flat wide cap is used;
• laying a waterproofing film to maintain an optimal microclimate in the building;
• installation of special rails holding the insulation in one position.

Decorating, installation of OSB boards, drywall, plastering, wallpapering are carried out.

It is important to emphasize: only the installation of insulation boards will not help make the house suitable for winter living. You will have to solve problems with heating: installing a gas or electric boiler. There are many options, but it is better not to use a traditional wood-burning stove for safety reasons.

They are assembled in a fairly short time, using minimal labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not make high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection of building materials for the insulation of frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

1. The former include natural materials of natural origin (sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
2. The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam plastic, basaltin, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast features such as:

• good moisture resistance;
• low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
• no shrinkage and long service life;
• ease of use;
• safety for a person.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-established method. The material has an excellent sound absorption rate, retains heat well, and also has a high environmental friendliness class.

Wall insulation inside and out

There is no particular difference from where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside. It's more convenient for someone here. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may start to rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation has a width of 600 mm. Therefore, when building a frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the vertical posts, the ideal step size between them is 580-590 mm. Such a distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established norms, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it would be advisable to use plates with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the design, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also material in 100 mm. less prone to deflection and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening vapor barrier and OSB boards

• In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. To do this, from the inside, the wooden walls of the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a conventional stapler, roll out the roll in horizontal stripes and fasten it with an overlap along 5 cm. to vertical posts. Make sure that the film is firmly attached to the surface everywhere;
• Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB boards, which will be the base for interior decoration. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, if necessary, cutting them with an electric jigsaw.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite elastic, therefore, for its fixation, an additional method of fastening is not required, it is enough just to insert it between the uprights. The plates must be tightly held there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers, using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contribute to the appearance of condensate and dampness on the inner surface of the finish, as a result of which mold and fungus may appear.

After all the plates are installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. To do this, by analogy with the internal walls, the external ones are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is a hydro-windproof membrane, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and raindrops getting inside. To securely connect the membrane, fix it to the posts with a counter-batten.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for finishing, you need to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-crate, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Sectional diagram of insulation

If the walls will be sheathed with some other finishing material (facade tiles, artificial or natural stone, etc.), it is unnecessary to nail the guide bars to the OSB boards, the walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

• Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces the heat loss of the house by 25-30 % Therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with all responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate a roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last for a long time, the roofing pie must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the process of a frame house with mineral wool is quite simple and is as follows:

1. From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
2. Further from the inside in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation boards are laid. Pay special attention to the places of gables and the ridge part of the roof;
3. The insulation is necessarily closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes from the bottom up with an overlap 5 cm.;
4. The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (lining, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where there is a leak 15-20% so precious in our time of warmth. Of course, you can fork out and install a system in the house, especially since in our time there is plenty for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

You can’t even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then it will take its first steps in life on it. The time spent on yoga and reading interesting books, in addition to benefits, will also bring pleasure.

The sequence of floor insulation in a frame house:

• A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the subfloor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
• Between the lag for the floor, a heater is laid (thickness not less than 200 mm.). To eliminate the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation must exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

• Overlap insulation on top 5-10 cm. covered with a vapor barrier;
• Further, depending on the floor covering, the floor is covered with plywood sheets, or a finishing board is placed.

Conclusion

Today, there are many different modern materials that are suitable for insulating houses built using frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews from the owners show that there is no point in overpaying for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for insulating a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

Frame houses are more suitable for summer living. If such a house is used all year round, it will need to be insulated. For sound insulation, comfort and durability of the building, insulation must be carried out in compliance with GOSTs.

In this article I will tell you how to insulate a frame house for winter living.

Ways of warming frame houses

First you need to decide on the type of thermal insulation. It can be internal, external, as well as insulation of the floor, ceiling, etc.

What you need to know about outdoor insulation

This type of insulation has the following advantages:

• Additional protection of walls against deformation.
• The insulation takes on sudden changes in temperature, thereby extending the life of the building.
• It makes the walls smoother, making it possible to use different facade finishing materials.

External insulation is:

• ventilated;
• wet insulation.

The first method is the most common and economical, such work can be done without the help of specialists. A gap is made between the insulation and the lining, which performs the function of ventilation. Thus, the condensate accumulated in the heater is blown out by the air flow. This technology extends the life of the building.

The second way - we glue the insulation to the wall, and then fasten it to the dowels. From above we apply several coatings: reinforcing, intermediate and decorative. However, without work experience, it is impossible to perform "wet" insulation.

Important about warming the house from the inside

Internal insulation of the house has a number of advantages:

• the ability to work in any weather and season;
• you can lay the insulation yourself;
• provides good sound insulation.

Among the disadvantages:

• condensation may appear on the wall, under the insulation;
• the wall does not warm up well, which leads to dampness;
• reduction in floor space;
• materials used are harmful to health;
• gaps remain at the junction of the insulation through which cold will appear.

When insulating the walls inside the building, you should consider:

• Humidity in the room.
• The weather conditions of the area where the house is built.
• insulation properties.
• Thermal parameters of the wall.

How to insulate a frame house for winter living?

In order to make it possible to live comfortably in the frame, and in winter, the material used for insulation must have the following qualities:

• Environmental friendliness - the insulation should not contain substances that can be harmful to health.
• Fire resistance - the material should not ignite, and in case of fire - emit a large amount of smoke.
• A small coefficient of thermal conductivity is optimal if the insulation for winter in a frame house is in the range of 100-150 mm.
• Strength and tightness - the insulation must tightly fill the gaps of the frame.
• Ease of installation of thermal insulation.

To insulate a frame house, it is customary to choose between polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, basalt wool and polyurethane foam.

I'll point it out right now!

I am a supporter of the use of basalt (stone) wool in the insulation of frame houses. The advantages of this material are undeniable!

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Styrofoam

The material is considered the warmest, but less than others is suitable for warming frame houses. Usage features:

• Styrofoam - these are rigid plates, they are laid on a flat wall. For a frame house, this option of insulation is only suitable for a perfectly flat surface, otherwise cold air will come through the gaps.
• The material must not be placed near sources of fire.
• Does not allow moisture to pass through, requires the installation of reliable waterproofing and vapor barrier.

• light weight, which makes the installation process simple;
• does not lose its properties with temperature changes.

Insulation is best installed outside the building.

This is a high quality material with good thermal insulation properties. It is made from granular polystyrene and foaming agent.

• Low water absorption. This indicator remains unchanged even at high humidity.
• No additional waterproofing required.
• Strength.
• Low flammability.
• It can be used at temperatures from -50 to +75 degrees.
• Environmental friendliness and harmlessness to health.
• You can install it yourself.

• Low vapor barrier. To improve the indicator, ventilation is required.
• High price.
• Installation of an additional frame on which the material will be attached.
• Applying a special compound to polystyrene foam to protect against UV rays.

Due to its quality characteristics, the material is often used for insulation of floors, facades and foundations.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is based on fibers from minerals of volcanic origin.

Among the advantages stand out:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Fire resistance. This material not only does not ignite, but also does not allow the fire to spread.
• Light weight, which makes it easier and faster to install.
• Ensures the durability of the building.

• Over time, the wool becomes caked, as a result, the integrity of the thermal insulation is violated.
• Reliable waterproofing is required, as mineral wool absorbs moisture.

Basalt wool

I must say right away that this is the most suitable material for warming a frame building!

Basalt wool is made from molten rocks (basalt). It is used for sound and heat insulation of buildings, insulation of facades, roofs, ceilings and other structures.

Advantages of basalt wool:

• good sound insulation and thermal insulation;
• fire resistance;
• strength;
• vapor permeability (allows the walls to "breathe");
• does not contain toxic substances;
• prevents the formation of fungus and mold on the walls;
• does not change its properties with temperature changes;
• durability.

This material does not contain limestones and dolomites. That is why it is not attacked by rodents. Insulation fibers are located in a vertical and horizontal position, which is characterized by a high degree of rigidity. It does not accumulate moisture in itself, it has a water-repellent property.

However, this material also has its drawbacks. Well, where would we be without them! Cons of using basalt wool for warming a frame house:

• High price.
• Environmentally unsafe. In the process of making cotton wool, a phenol-based binder is used.

polyurethane foam

This is a synthetic insulation, consisting of polymer foam. Among the positive characteristics of polyurethane foam are:

• Excellent adhesion to most surfaces (concrete, brick, metal, etc.).
• Mounting tools are not required for installation.
• Protects pipes from corrosion.
• Does not lose its quality properties under the influence of acids, alkalis, etc.

Liquid polystyrene foam allows you to fill cracks, seams and other empty spaces where it is not possible to lay other insulation.

• The material must be isolated from direct sunlight, under their influence destruction occurs. For this, a special coating is used.
• Foam is used only on warm and dry surfaces.
• The material is not combustible, but smolders under the influence of fire. Therefore, it cannot be used for boiler rooms and baths.

Eternal questions of choice!.. What to pay special attention to when choosing a heater?

Properly insulating a frame house for winter living makes it durable, strong and reliable. For a frame house, materials with:

• Low thermal conductivity is the amount of heat passing through the material. The lower this indicator, the longer the heat is retained inside the room.
• Fire safety - resistance to high temperatures. For frame houses, it is better to use a heater, with a flammability brand - NG.
• Low water absorption - the amount of moisture transmitted. The lower this indicator, the better the quality. With high liquid absorption, thermal conductivity increases, the material freezes and loses its properties.
• Do not shrink over time - the insulation must maintain its density. During shrinkage, gaps are formed through which cold air passes.
• Environmental friendliness - should not cause harm to health and emit harmful substances.

So what kind of heater? better for a frame house?

A frame house is a wooden building, which, without insulation, is suitable only for seasonal (summer) living, otherwise, high-quality thermal insulation will be required. The vapor permeability of the material used must be higher than that of the wood from which the frame is made.

Most often, coniferous trees are chosen for frame buildings.

The best option for insulation for frame houses would be: basalt wool. As an extreme option - ecowool. And the least suitable - polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam and extruded polystyrene foam.

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How is the insulation of the house

Thermal insulation of a frame house is an important and difficult stage of construction. You need to fill every millimeter of free space so that cold air does not enter through it.

Wall insulation from the outside

There are two ways to install the frame house insulation. In the first case, thermal insulation is installed during the construction process, in the second - on the completed building.

In the first case, we lay the thermal insulation in a checkerboard pattern between the frame components. This method helps to prevent cold bridges in the thermal insulation layer, and also saves free space both inside and outside the building.

If insulation was required after the commissioning of the house, then we put a layer of thermal insulation on the surface of the facade. For this, the material is suitable in plates, the thickness of which is about 5 cm.

How do I install insulation?

• I do prep work first. I check the condition of the walls (if the house was already in operation), remove everything superfluous from the facade of the building (nails, screws, etc.). All cracks, irregularities are sealed with mounting foam. If there are damp areas on the facade, I dry them with a building hair dryer, and also eliminate the cause of these consequences.
• When insulating a house during construction, I upholster the walls inside with chipboard. After I put a vapor barrier film.

• Next, I put in the heater. Each subsequent layer must overlap the junction of the previous one. The total number of layers depends on the region and its climate.

• After finishing work with the insulation, I put a windproof membrane on top and fasten it with a stapler.

• I'm doing a crate. It serves as a ventilation opening between the membrane and the cladding.
• I attach chipboard to the crate.
• I do facade cladding.

The process of internal insulation:

• I treat the walls with an antiseptic. This will prevent the growth of fungus and mold. I clean from dirt and dust, and also remove screws, screws, nails, etc.
• Then I put a layer of insulation.
• I fix the vapor barrier, which prevents steam from entering the insulation. Smooth side to the insulation, rough side out.
• I upholster the walls with drywall or other material.
• I do finishing work.

There are no serious requirements for the insulation of internal walls, a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier is optional if it is mounted outside.

Foundation insulation

If the frame house is insulated, a mandatory foundation sheathing is required. This will prevent cold air from entering from below.

The process of insulation in the strip foundation

For insulation of the foundation, it is better to choose extruded polystyrene foam. It does not absorb moisture and performs a waterproofing function.

Work process:

• I prepare the surface: I clean it from dirt, and I treat it with a primer.
• I fix the insulation boards on the adhesive solution.
• I apply another layer of adhesive solution, lay the reinforcing mesh, press it into the solution and level the surface.

• I carry out decorative finishing of the basement.

Insulation on a pile foundation

To begin with, I build a wall that will close the space above the house. This design comes in two versions:

• A self-supporting wall of brick, block or stone that stands on its own foundation.
• The construction of a frame made of wood or a profile along the perimeter of the foundation.

For work, either extruded polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam is suitable.

The warming process is as follows:

• I install waterproofing - it protects the insulation from moisture.
• I construct a grid for the basement from wood or metal. For its construction, I build a crate with cells that should be smaller than a piece of insulation. This will provide greater tightness.
• I put a heater on the frame - I press the insulation plates tightly against the frame. If joints are formed, I close them with foam. If the material is not moisture resistant, then I put an additional layer of waterproofing.

• I carry out exterior finishing on insulation - for this I use siding, decorative PVC panels, stone, etc.

Basement insulation does not exclude floor insulation.

Ceiling insulation

I insulate the ceiling before installing the roof. Materials suitable for work: polystyrene foam, mineral wool.

Stages of work:

• On the draft boards of the ceiling I stretch a vapor barrier film with zero permeability. The joints are overlapped by 10 cm, gluing with self-adhesive tape or tape.
• I put in a heater. This is done in a checkerboard pattern, with an overlap at the junction. The last layer of thermal insulation should cover the beams.

• Waterproofing.

When laying the insulation, I make a ledge on the walls.

• If the attic is not insulated, then the membrane film does not need to be stretched. In this case, I nail boards or plywood to the floor of the attic.
• To insulate the ceiling inside the room, you will need to tie it up so that the structure holds. After installing the insulation, I sew on waterproofing, and then - a board or plywood.

How to insulate a cold attic

Work is carried out on a wooden floor. For this:

• I attach a vapor barrier to the surface of the false ceiling. It will protect not only the insulation itself from decay, but also the floor beams.
• On the hemmed ceiling, between the beams, I lay the insulation.
• From above I cover everything with waterproofing.
• If there is no ventilated gap above the insulation, I stuff the spacer rails of the counter-lattice from above, and then I fix the attic floor boards.

Attic insulation

There are two ways to insulate the attic - laying thermal insulation on the roof or along the contour of the walls of the room. First, I put a waterproofing membrane. We fix it on the rafters, in front of the crate.

For the roofing roof, we provide a ventilated gap. It will prevent the accumulation of condensate, and moisture will be removed by air currents. Installation of insulation in the attic does not differ from the thermal insulation of the roof or walls.

How to insulate the roof

If the attic is used as a living space, it will need to be insulated. The process of work is similar to the thermal insulation of the ceiling. The only difference is the order of the layers.

I put waterproofing on top of the insulation on the roof, which protects against the adverse effects of the environment.

How to insulate the floor

Floor insulation depends on the material of the foundation. Most often I use pile-screw.

Installation of thermal insulation:

• Under the floor logs I install a frame, which will be the basis for insulation.

• If the house is high above the ground, I stretch the waterproofing membrane under the joists and attach it with a furniture stapler. I make the membrane on the walls so that it is as tight as possible, and cold air does not enter.
• I install a board on top of the waterproofing, its size is not more than 40-50 cm. This is enough so that the insulation does not fail. It is better to fill the board tightly so that there are no gaps.

• If you can’t crawl under the floor of the house, I install a board under the logs, and then I fix the waterproofing membrane.
• When the base is ready, I lay the insulation. This is done between the lags and as tightly as possible.

• The thickness of the insulation depends on the region where the house is being built, its average value is 15 cm.
• On top of the insulation, on the logs, I fix the vapor barrier membrane. It will protect from moisture, and also prevents the penetration of cold air. The seams are sealed with double sided tape.

• I attach plywood or boards to the vapor barrier membrane, which will be the basis for finishing the floor.

Each layer of insulation must overlap the joints of the previous one.

Features and nuances of insulation

For proper and reliable thermal insulation, it is necessary to consider:

• In a frame house, it is necessary to insulate the foundation, basement, walls, interfloor ceilings, roof, floor.
• For insulation of the foundation and basement, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is suitable.
• Insulation of walls, floors, roofs - mats made of basalt fiber or ecowool.
• For the floor there are ready-made options - SIP panels. Otherwise, any other material will do.
• The thickness of the frame house insulation for winter living should be 150 mm - for walls, 200 mm - for floors, interior partitions - 100 mm, interfloor - 200 mm, roof - 300 mm. These are not the final dimensions, the layer can always be increased or decreased.
• For wall insulation, it is necessary to choose a material that has less vapor permeability than a load-bearing wall. This will enable the steam not to accumulate in the heat-insulating material, but to go outside.
• With internal wall insulation, you should take care of the air exchange in the room. To do this, ventilation valves are mounted in plastic windows.
• Before work, the walls must be treated with an antiseptic primer. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew.

In order for the crate for decorative trim to be durable, I install frame racks more often. After fixing the waterproof membrane to the frame, I knock it out with spacer rails (thickness 25-30 cm). They will provide space for the runoff of trapped water.

The outer wall of a frame house is represented by layers: inner lining, vapor barrier, insulation, frame, superdiffusion membrane, counter-lattice, facade decoration.



Inner wall: inner cladding, vapor barrier, frame, insulation, membrane, counter-lattice, outer cladding, rough plaster, plaster mesh, plaster.



Frame houses are very popular. They are built not only for cottages and summer holidays, but also for permanent residence. Therefore, you need to know how to properly and reliably insulate a frame house for winter living. The insulation must be reliably protected from the negative effects of the environment, because moisture, freezing and thawing can spoil the material, respectively, the life of the building will be significantly reduced.

In recent years, a frame structure has been increasingly chosen for the construction of houses, which is much cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of mounting the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide a comfortable temperature regime in the premises, but also make the house quiet at the same time. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of important criteria that must be taken into account when choosing materials for the insulation of the "framework". All this will be discussed in the proposed publication.

The main criteria for choosing a heater for a frame house

The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation of the frame walls of the house and as safe as possible for people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

• It should be well combined with the material of the frame, that is, with a wooden beam.
• Optimal material - the most environmentally friendly
• Insulation should be selected with the expectation of the longest possible service life, which should not be less than the service life of the wood chosen for the construction of the frame.
• Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist moisture absorption (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and drastically reduce its insulating qualities.
• The coefficient of thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the better the insulation, since the main function of thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
• Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be "breathable", that is, not prevent the release of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and on the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious damage to the structure.
• The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it for permanent residence, laying passages and equipping nests.
• For frame houses, fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-combustible, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll) installed between frame racks.

• Filling heaters are expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
• Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied by "wet" technology.
• Plate or roll insulation - various types of expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, wood-fiber and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities, and from the standpoint of ease of use.

For thermal insulation of frame buildings, modern materials and traditional ones, familiar to builders for more than a dozen years, are used. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the way they are used, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Bulk type heaters

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a natural material that has been used to insulate different parts of a building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. The latter option is called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under the concrete screed of the first floor floors on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment at high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

• High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the "warm" natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps to reduce the thermal conductivity of clay.
• It has a low weight, which is ten times lower than the mass of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for warming light buildings, as it does not give a large load on the foundation and wooden formwork into which it is backfilled.
• The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic and toxic substances.
• Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
• The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable”, which does not allow the walls to become waterlogged.
• Moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb and does not retain water.
• Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
• The material calmly, without losing its insulating properties, withstands very low winter and high summer temperatures.
• The heater is not flammable. It does not support combustion, does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
• Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for warming a private house. From fine-grained expanded clay, they even often make an embankment under the house, as it helps protect the building from mice.
• Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will survive such a heater for sure.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

• Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13 ÷ 5.0 mm, it is used for backfilling as a heater in walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
• Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5 ÷ 50 mm, and it is excellent for the manufacture of expanded clay concrete.
• Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting the gravel mass. The size of the crushed stone fraction can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for the insulation of frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance and ease of installation - they can isolate any structure in shape. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for filling wooden walls into frames, but also for three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance against the background of other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, the lack of information about this material affects. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of plates. Loose material is used to isolate the structural departments of the building - it is poured into the floor space along the logs, attic floors, and also into the cavity of the frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete for arranging insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and glass cullet are used for its manufacture. The raw material is crushed to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component contributes to the foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Pellets are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which blanks - pellets - are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and fine 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Foam glass is a moisture-resistant, solid material resistant to chemical and biological influences. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The disadvantages of bulk foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it's still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry laying)

This material can be attributed to relative innovations in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, backfilling in the cavity, or according to the "wet" technology - spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the composition of the material includes a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a flame retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed polyethylene bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

• Low thermal conductivity. Cellulose, of which this insulation mainly consists, has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for the construction of residential buildings for hundreds of years precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
• The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
• This is an environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
• Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
• Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
• This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture does not linger in the structure, since the material is "breathable".
• Resistance to low temperatures, that is, frost resistance of cotton wool.
• Despite the flame retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 combustibility group, that is, it is low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
• Mice and insects do not start in ecowool, as it contains boric acid.
• It attracts in it a long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool in the wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be well tamped. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material, there will be a large amount of dust and debris in the room, so it is best to work on the street or in outbuildings, and the respiratory tract must be protected by wearing a respirator.

Wall insulation with dry ecowool is carried out in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is done manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing into a space completely closed by a sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow in, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, it is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as filling insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose since time immemorial. We can say that this natural material was replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for warming frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hard wood sawdust - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without processing them with special compounds, include their following features:

• Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading fire to nearby combustible materials.
• In a layer of sawdust, various insects and rodents feel good.
• With high humidity, sawdust can begin to rot, and mold can also form on them.
• When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly, in addition, their thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the heat-insulating effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, the master builders developed mixtures in which there are additives that level out all the shortcomings of sawdust.

For the manufacture of such a warming mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:

• Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
• Boric acid or copper sulphate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared to insulate the attic floor, sawdust is mixed with lime for floors, and a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used for walls.

The process of manufacturing a mixture for warming frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on its mixing in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

• Sawdust is poured into the container, about ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
• Gypsum is added to the sawdust, it will take two liter jars. If the attic floor is insulated, clay is taken instead of gypsum, and lime for floors.
• Further, in a bucket of water for 10 liters, 100 ml of boric acid or copper sulfate is diluted.
• Then the ready, well-mixed aqueous solution is poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binder additives, after which all components must be mixed well. It must be remembered here that when using gypsum as a binder additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working condition for a few minutes. Therefore, a large amount of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be kneaded. The thickness of the insulation layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder has hardened, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more accurate composition of sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid 150 mm thick for insulation of a house with a certain wall surface area.

Parameter name	Numerical indicators
Wall area of ​​the house, (m²)	80	90	100	120	150
Number of sawdust, (in bags)	176	198	220	264	330
The amount of gypsum, (kg)	264	297	330	396	495
The amount of copper sulfate or boric acid, (kg)	35.2	39.6	44	52.8	66

Loose type insulation installation

The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in warming the frame structure, and the work can be easily done independently:

• The first step is to sheathe the frame with plywood (OSB) or other material from the outside or inside. It is best to clad the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining for cladding the house. Having fixed the boards from the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from the inside of the room, without fear of rain.
• The next stage of the insulation process is to fix the strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500 ÷ 800 mm. It will turn out a kind of formwork, into which the insulation will be poured, and then the insulation will be compacted.

• When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton fibers will bond well with each other and shrink a little, freeing up part of the space that must also be filled with cotton.

• If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its following elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
• When the walls are insulated with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the formwork plywood is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with drywall or other facing material.
• If another filling material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
• If additional wall insulation is required, it is recommended to install heat-insulating material from the outside of the building, before decorative cladding.
• On the front side, the insulation material must be tightened with a hydro-windproof membrane.
• When using sawdust or ecowool for backfilling the wall frame, it is recommended to use kraft paper as a waterproofing material. It is laid inside the formwork, spreading on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation, to a height of approximately 200 ÷ 300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Spray-on insulation

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

The application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out by a “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Ecowool prices

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

• Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after sheathing it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool over the racks using a special roller;

• The frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) on both sides, and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, 55÷60 mm in size.

Both spraying and blowing ecowool into the space between the frame racks is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the capacity of the device there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moisturizing it throughout the volume.

Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then it enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.

If the filling of the wall will occur through a hole, then first it is drilled in the plywood sheathing. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed in the resulting hole, through which the fluffy and moistened ecowool is fed.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after it is leveled, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for their independent use. However, when using such a device, ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this is additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

The consumer has become so accustomed to the advertised types of materials that a certain deformation of consciousness occurs: it is this product that is universally suitable for solving every problem of building insulation. Let's figure out what is more suitable for external insulation of a frame house, and what is better to refrain from. It is important not only to reduce the cost of heating boiler and air conditioning. Armed with the medical commandment "do no harm."

Guidelines for the consumer:

• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• Minimum moisture absorption;
• Fire safety;
• Environmental friendliness;
• Weight and density;
• Price.

mineral wool- the dominant insulation in the construction market. About 80% of the internal filling of the walls of skeletons is a variety of roll or slab variations of this material. Working with them does not require special devices and high qualifications. Almost every home craftsman, armed with the necessary minimum knowledge, will cope.

In terms of durability - it retains thermophysical indicators for 30–40 years under optimal operating conditions - basalt wool is a well-deserved leader in this category of slab insulation. High density with excellent thermal insulation qualities protects against sagging, respectively, increases the service life without repairing the insulating cake. Installation is simplified due to the ability to retain shape for a long time.

The thermal insulator breathes well, bringing the steam out. But hygroscopicity - the ability to accumulate moisture inside that is detrimental to the material crosses out all the advantages. In addition to the fact that water destroys mineral wool, as a result of destructive changes, the necessary physical properties are lost, and formaldehydes are released. Additional hydrophobic impregnations protect against getting wet, but this happens at the expense of vapor permeability.

External insulation with mineral wool

When mounted outside a frame house, stone wool, due to its sufficient density, can be fixed on a flat pre-primed surface with building glue. After reinforcement with plastic dowels and mesh reinforcement, a layer of decorative protective plaster is applied on top of it. Protection against penetration of rodents is required by imposing a fine-mesh metal mesh in the lower part of the facade.

Ventilated facade

In order to maintain the physical conditions of the mineral wool for many years and conduct insulation in accordance with building codes, a ventilated facade is arranged. Initially, the walls are treated with an antiseptic, after complete drying - with a fire retardant flame retardant. Then the joints, cracks, leaks are caulked or filled with mounting foam.
Along the perimeter outside the frame house we fasten the timber, orienting the laying of the plates transversely with respect to the internal insulation. The distance between the guides is 2-3 cm less than the size of the insulation plate, so that sagging does not form in the future. Using a stapler, a layer of vapor barrier is attached. It is allowed to install a vapor barrier vertically and horizontally, the main requirement is complete sealing in order to protect structural elements from moisture.

The insulation, in order to avoid sagging and as close as possible to the wall, is attached with a dowel-fungus at several points. Wind protection is applied over the laid mineral wool. The vertical slats for facade ventilation are stuffed at 50 mm intervals to allow air to circulate in a horizontal direction. Gaps on one line are not allowed. The thickness of the rails varies depending on the number of storeys of the frame house: 20–30 mm for a one-story house, 50–60 mm for a two-story house.

Styrofoam

For the price - one of the most affordable insulation for thermal insulation of a frame house from the outside. Excellent coefficient of thermal conductivity, but the vapor permeability is insufficient, moisture is practically not removed, condensing on a wooden frame. The sad consequences are known and predictable. The level of water absorption is low.

Longevity is also not a positive indicator. After 7-10 years of operation, the level of heat transfer increases up to 10 times due to the acceleration of destructive depolymerization, accelerated by excessive humidity and elevated temperatures.

Styrofoam insulation raises concerns about the safety of wooden structures. It practically does not let in steam, the insulation creates a dew point inside. Experts recommend enclosing the frame with vapor and moisture protection to avoid dampening of the wood. What if the antiseptic is of dubious quality? Exemption from moisture only through one plane of a structural element is an unjustified risk.

Given the flammability with abundant release of harmful substances, this insulation is not recommended for external protection of frame housing from adverse temperature conditions. The flow of air in the ventilated facade from the first minutes of the fire activates the combustion process. For external insulation of a brick house, it is permissible with restrictions.

Styrofoam

Extruded polystyrene foam is a flame retardant cousin in the foam family. Combustion is prevented by the flame retardant included in the composition. Penoplex is another name for expanded polystyrene. The service life is increased to 50 years, increased strength, unloved by rodents. There are a lot of advantages, but it is undesirable for filling wooden structures for the same reasons as polystyrene. Great for insulating basements and plinths. Does not apply inside walls! Ventilation with external insulation is desirable.

Strength, crust-like compacted surface, the presence of simplified connecting locks that block cold bridges, allows you to use it as an external insulation. Extruded polystyrene foam is glued from the outside onto the primed surface of the outer plate covering the frame and fixed at 4–5 points with plastic dowels. External finishing is carried out with decorative plaster on a grid, or a ventilated facade is mounted.

Cladding facade panels

Thermal panels insulate and decorate the frame house from the outside. There is a clear gain in time: polymer insulation and decorative coating are mounted simultaneously. The insulating layer is usually made of expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. The size of the panels varies from 500x500 mm to 600x1200 mm.

The surface on which the thermal panels are mounted must initially be flat. With a level difference of 4–5 cm, you will have to install a counter crate according to the level. The base surface is covered with a waterproof primer, it is possible to cover it with a rolled membrane.
Primary fixation is carried out with glue, then the final fastening with dish-shaped dowels follows. They are interconnected vertically due to the ridge and groove, the sides are assembled with a lock. Such insulation for a frame house is practical and will satisfy a picky esthete.

Penoizol

Recently appeared material in the construction market. It is used in liquid form, applied to the surface to be insulated under air pressure. Complete polymerization occurs within 4 hours. The technology is simple and convenient, it completely duplicates the creation of a ventilated facade. The difference is that the cavities under the insulation remain unfilled.
A vapor-moisture barrier film and a vapor-permeable membrane are installed without fail. OSB boards or plywood perform an auxiliary function.

The bay is made through the holes prepared for the supply sleeve. Additional perforation will be needed to control the filling of the free space of the cavities with the foaming composition. At the end of the polymerization process, the OSB boards are dismantled, and a wind protection is installed. The crate for the ventilated facade is stuffed. The slab material with sealed holes is mounted as an external enclosing structure of the frame house.

Inexpensive and technological insulation penoizol for a house with a wooden frame is suitable for pouring from the inside and outside. Its porous structure allows steam to escape. That is, the wood will not rot and decay. Insects and rodents avoid it. The average service life is 70 years. Thermophysical indicators put it in first place among the heaters in contact with wood.

Conclusion

Not all materials are suitable for external insulation of a frame house. Penoizol is head and shoulders above the rest - it removes moisture, does not emit harmful chemicals, and is durable.