The milling cutter is the most frequently used tool of a self-respecting craftsman. Thanks to him, you can make the things we know with incredible ease. There are operations in carpentry which cannot be performed without this tool.

The milling cutter consists of an engine, a collet for mounting replaceable cutters, a speed controller, and a vertical bar. In the model range of any manufacturer, there are many models with different capacities. Hand router - quite versatile electrical appliance, which has a wide potential and opportunities. It becomes possible to improve the router by installing it on a horizontal surface, which will allow you to process fairly large workpieces with minimal effort.

Purpose of the milling table

Installing a router in a table or workbench allows you to achieve good results in the manufacture of many products. In the furniture industry, it is an indispensable tool. Since this process often requires trimming the edges of the canvases, making figured grooves and recesses.

Such tables can be found in large tool stores. The cost of such equipment directly depends on the functionality and material from which they are made. But even with the most minimal set of functions, but with high-quality coverage, the price for such a product is quite high. For simple lover who is engaged for his pleasure in the garage, the price is unaffordable. The way out is a homemade table for the router.

Before you start buying material for the future table, you should decide on its functionality. Consider the main features of a manual milling cutter and its machine version.

Hand Router Operations

• Figured or rectilinear processing of ends or edges of preparations.
• Hole cutting various shapes to install furniture fittings.
• Removing a quarter of the thickness.
• Grinding and cutting of workpieces.
• drilling.
• Finishing the cutting area.
• Removal of grooves of slots, grooves.

Milling table operations

A do-it-yourself table for a router allows you to perform operations such as:

• parallel fine cutting;
• facing surfaces and edges of great length;
• quarter sampling;
• edge finishing.

From the list it becomes clear that all the same operations are performed on the milling table as with a conventional manual router, but only with greater accuracy and quality. In addition, the dimensions of the blanks are already many times larger.

Choosing a hand router

For a tiny workshop, buying a separate router is an unaffordable luxury. Therefore, a router table will be required with a quick-release router design. This means that it will work in two versions, both on the table and in manual mode. To do this, you need a quality power tool.

There are two types of manual router:

• submersible;
• trimming.

Their names speak of their functionality. Since the miter router is highly specialized, its further consideration will not be interesting to the reader.

By power, an electric tool is classified into:

• low power - from 500 to 1100 watts;
• medium power - from 1200 to 1800 watts;
• high power - from 1900 to 2500 watts.

Professionals advise using low-power milling cutters for processing small workpieces, this allows you to achieve maximum ease of use. In this case, you will have to make passes in several approaches, removing a small thickness, layer by layer. However, such routers cannot be installed on a special table. For these purposes, milling machines with a power of about 2000 watts are suitable.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following features of the tool:

• the maximum depth of lowering the rack;
• smooth start;
• spindle speed control;
• dynamic brake;
• maintaining rpm under load.
• chip removal system.

All these parameters determine the quality of a manual router, which will be useful both in manual mode and in machine mode.

Milling table device

Any milling table consists of the following elements:

• directly to the milling cutter itself;
• countertops;
• parallel stop;
• chip removal systems;
• boxes for storing spare parts and various cutters;
• horizontal clamp.

Depending on the functional tasks of the milling table, it can be made in the following versions:

• side table with a milling cutter;
• stationary tabletop;
• stationary worktop with parallel stop;
• stationary worktop with rip fence, with router lift, cutter cross feed.

materials

How to make a table for a router? What should a person who decides on this business have in his arsenal? To begin with, we need a drawing of a table for a manual router. Finding him is easy. Therefore, making a table for a manual router is quite realistic. There are also many detailed tutorials and videos of local craftsmen showing off their creations. There are models that are so multifunctional that they combine, in addition to milling, drilling, grinding and cutting tables.

Almost any material is suitable for manufacturing. Basically, they use sheets of chipboard, laminated plywood or ordinary plywood with a thickness of at least 8 millimeters. You will also need wood screws with a countersunk head, aluminum corners (furniture), PVA glue.

Assembly

Consider how the simplest do-it-yourself table for a router is assembled. We will make it from laminated plywood. The size of the countertop is 400 mm wide and 400 mm long. A laminated board is perfect for a countertop. It has a number of advantages over plywood:

• wear-resistant surface;
• low cost;
• quick replacement.

However, we decided to make a table for a manual router from laminated plywood. Carefully cut it to the intended size. The legs will be made from the same material. It retreats from the edges by 20-30 centimeters and fastens the legs with the tabletop, pre-lubricate the joints with glue and make two or three holes for tightening the screws.

We make the following technological holes in the countertop:

• large round for the exit of the collet with a cutter;
• parallel groove for fastening the guide;
• you can make a small groove for attaching the ruler.

Parallel stop can be made from the same materials as the countertop. The stop consists of two parts, the interface runs exactly in the center of the installed cutter. They must move independently of each other. To increase the possibilities of milling, it is desirable that the parallel stop has two degrees of freedom. That is, he could tilt relative to the tabletop, and turn parallel to it. This will allow you to make products of complex shape.

Among other things, a recess with a square-shaped cover is made on the reverse side of the parallel stop, a vacuum cleaner pipe is inserted into one end. As a rule, the chip removal system is made from two sides, one from above behind the stop, the second directly near the milling cutter collet.

This is the easiest table for a do-it-yourself router. In the future, you can refine and install a lift for convenient adjustment of the departure in height and horizontal cutter.

Accessories

Because manual frezer installed in the table is an electric tool, an external switch can be installed in the table for safety. This will allow you to conveniently and safely turn the machine on and off when needed. Here you can also install additional sockets for connecting a portable lamp or a hand drill.

With sufficient free space, milling tables are made with dimensions of 1500 by 1500 millimeters and a height of one and a half meters. Get full-fledged workbenches. At the same time, sliding shelves are made in them, in which it is convenient to store various cutters and a key for changing the spindle. A large table allows you to process large sheets of plywood or other material so often used in the manufacture of furniture or doors. Such a table increases the accuracy of machined parts and reduces the percentage of defects in manufacturing.

Security

It is worth remembering that tables for wood routers are sources of increased danger. The speed of the cutter reaches 25,000 rpm. Any awkward movement will lead to irreparable consequences. Hands should be kept at the maximum safe distance from the rotating head, the cutter should be changed on a stopped and de-energized machine.

When working, you need to wear special glasses that will protect your eyes from getting small chips. The noise level during operation is quite high, you should take appropriate precautions. Keep children away from the router.

Having received garden plot, I started carpentry. After 10-15 years, I have accumulated a collection of power tools in my workshop, numbering 27 items. A special place in it is occupied by a manual milling machine, which enables an amateur carpenter to make professional objects of good quality from wood. With its help, it is possible to quickly and accurately profile edges and make connections. However, it soon became uncomfortable to work with a milling machine as a hand tool.

I first felt the need to have a milling machine when I was making a wooden grate for a bath: I had to make 40 oval planks. I had to build a simple milling table. I installed a chipboard sheet with a hole in the middle on a metal frame, attached an old milling machine to a 10 mm plywood sheet and fixed it to the chipboard - the milling table is ready. It was convenient to work with him, but soon I wanted better.

Having studied a dozen and a half homemade sites, I realized that it is possible to make a very good milling machine, moreover, in budget option. Started with project development.

The main dimensions of the machine were determined by two products I have: a metal frame picked up from a landfill and a 2050 W SPARKY X 205CE hand mill.

Do-it-yourself milling table for a router: drawings

A classic milling machine, made on the basis of a manual router, consists of six main elements: a bed 1, a worktop 2, a mounting plate 3, a manual router 4, an elevator 5 that allows you to adjust the cutter reach, and a longitudinal stop 6.

Milling table top

A mounting plate is used to mount the router on a tabletop. Attaching the router to the insert plate has two advantages over attaching it directly to the underside of the table top. Firstly, the plate saves 6-10 mm of cutting depth compared to mounting the router to a cover with a thickness of 20 mm or more. Secondly, the plate makes it easy to remove the router for changing tools.

For making mounting plate (Fig. 2) I used a 10 mm lavsan textolite sheet. The location of the mounting holes from the sole of the router was transferred to paper, and from paper to the plate. I made a hole d61 mm in the center of the plate and milled a fold in it for installing interchangeable liners for a specific cutter.

Cut the table top to size. I marked out the necessary holes, grooves and an opening for the mounting panel according to the drawing. Cut out the opening with a jigsaw.

Prepared guide bars for the copy cutter. The height of the bars should be such that the copy cutter with the upper bearing is in constant contact with them when processing the rebate.

I installed the mounting plate on the countertop, secured two long bars with clamps and attached two short ones to them using a stapler (photo 7). To ensure a guaranteed gap between the fold and the mounting plate, I used thin spacers 0.2 mm thick on each side.

For reliability, I attached the short guide bars to the long ones using small squares.

Removed the plate and gaskets. I installed a copy cutter with an upper bearing in the collet of the router. Leaning the sole of the router on the guide bars, set the milling depth of 2 mm in the table top. I made a few shallow cuts, increasing the overhang of the cutter until it reached a depth of 0.5 mm more than the thickness of the mounting plate.

He took off the copy bars. I cleaned the edges of the fold and opening with the help of a skin.

Using the mounting plate as a template, I drilled mounting holes in the corners. On the reverse side of the tabletop, I installed mortise furniture nuts into the mounting holes.

I milled three grooves for aluminum guides using a 19 mm cutter, which I fixed in the grooves with self-tapping screws. The tabletop of the milling machine is ready.

Elevator for milling table

The next milling machine assembly that deserves special attention, - mechanism for feeding the cutter into the cutting zone, or an elevator. The cost of a professional elevator sold in stores reaches 50-60 thousand rubles. This is a high-precision and convenient mechanism, but for the purposes of amateur carpenters, it is, of course, redundant.

When developing my own elevator design, I set myself the goal of using the maximum number of purchased parts. The easiest way to solve the problem of the translational movement of the milling spindle is with the help of a pair of screw / nut: when the nut is fixed from axial movements, the screw performs translational movement.

The design of the elevator is shown in figure 4. As a moving element, I used a M16 bolt 200 mm long. For support, I used a long M16 nut, which I welded to a steel plate. The bolt is driven by a handwheel attached to it through a welded support washer.

The presence of a milling machine will greatly simplify the process and the accuracy of processing products. It can be purchased at ready-made in a specialized store, or you can save your own savings and make a table with your own hands.

With such a device, you can cut not only different breeds trees, but also plastic, wood boards. Also with it you can independently make a figured selection of the profile, grooves, spike and slots.

With the help of a DIY router table, you can equip your workshop with a practical woodworking machine. All that is required for effective work- this is to fix the manual milling cutter itself on the product.

Type designs, the milling table can be:

• hinged. This option quite practical and easy to use. To do this, a separate block of the unit is attached to the saw machine with clamps on the side. This design saves space. If necessary, it can be easily and quickly removed and left aside;
• portable. This option is in great demand, especially if the workshop is small. Also, this type of construction is suitable for those who often change their place of residence or take a router with them to construction sites;
• stationary. The option is suitable for a spacious workshop. This is a very comfortable model. Since with a stationary product you can equip a well-thought-out workplace.

Material

For the manufacture of a milling table, you can use various materials:

Each individual option has its own advantages. The tree differs in the high durability, reliability and durability. But you need to be able to work with this material. It is more difficult to handle manually, unlike DPP or MDF. Yes, and the natural array is much more expensive.

As for chipboard and MDF, these materials are more affordable. They are easy to process with hand and power tools and have good technical characteristics.

Drawing of a homemade milling table for wood

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the milling table, it is necessary to make a drawing. It shows the exact dimensions of each individual element and manufacturing materials. As for making a drawing, you can do it yourself, you can use special programs on the computer or, order from a furniture company. The last option is the most reliable. Since the experts will make a competent calculation of all the details, with an accuracy of one millimeter.

Instruments

To make a homemade milling table design, you will need the following: instruments:

• hacksaw;
• electric jigsaw;
• grinder or sandpaper;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Advice: the use of electric tools will greatly speed up the process of manufacturing and assembling the product.

From materials you will need:

• Chipboard or MDF. In order not to bend during work, it is worth choosing lumber with a section of 3.6 cm. Chipboard, 1.6 cm thick, is suitable for the side parts;
• plywood, textolite, metal (manufacturing of mounting plate);
• the milling cutter is purchased in a specialized store.

An easy way to make a table for a manual router

Countertop manufacturing

First you need to prepare the details for the table. They are cut with a jigsaw from selected lumber, according to the drawing.

Advice: detailing can be ordered from a specialized furniture company. Here you will be helped to immediately create a competent drawing and pick up lumber. The cost of services of a furniture company is fully justified by the quality and accuracy of work. All you need next is to simply assemble the product according to the diagram in your workshop.

The manufacturing process of the milling table is carried out in the following sequence:

Important: whether to do for the design of the table or not is a personal matter for everyone. The tabletop with the router installed can simply be fixed between two tables.

How to make and install a plate yourself

Since the tabletop of a homemade router table has a decent thickness, the mounting plate should have a small thickness. Then you can maximize the reach of the cutting tool.

Attention: a plate with a minimum thickness should be as strong and rigid as possible.

It can be made from metal or from a material that is in no way inferior in strength, for example, from textolite. The thickness of the textolite should vary within 4-8 mm.

The plate manufacturing process is as follows:

1. Referring to the drawing we cut out a rectangular part from a sheet of textolite.
2. At the center of the rectangular piece make a hole. Its dimensions must correspond to the diameter of the hole in the sole of the router.
3. We connect the plate with the sole of the router and the table.
4. For fixing plates to the tabletop we make clamps for the machine located at the four corners. These dimensions must strictly correspond to the holes located on the tool itself.

Work area equipment

After the manufacture and assembly of the milling table, it is recommended to think over a competent working area. To maintain accuracy milling, on the countertop it is worth installing:

• guides. They can be made from chipboard or from the same materials as the countertop. The guides are installed at a right angle and fastened with four oblique stops.
• clamps. They can be made in the form of a wooden comb or from a ball bearing of the desired size and weight.

Finishing

After the construction of the milling table with your own hands, to give the product aesthetic appearance and to extend its service life, all work surfaces are needed:

• grind;
• polish;
• bottom and sides - paint;
• open with varnish.

The electrical part of the product must be covered with a metal sleeve.

A photo

The result of the labors may be a table that looks like one of the following

Useful video

A detailed description of the manufacturing process can be viewed in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that the process of manufacturing a milling table is a rather responsible process. If you are sure that you will cope with such a task, you can save your own savings and make the product yourself. To do this, you will need: stock up on a well-drawn drawing, necessary materials and tools and free time.

In contact with

2. Glue the right leg FROM to support B (Fig. 1) and secure with additional screws. Set the assembly aside. Saw out the tsargi I. Then make cutouts for the tsarg in the middle support. How to carefully make such cutouts is described in "".

3. Using the middle support cutouts IN, mark the width of the upper dividing shelf F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and cut it off (photo B).

FOR A PRECISE FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Lay the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, making sure the edges are even. Using the cutout as a template, mark the width of the shelf.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the notch and mark its width by marking the opposite notch.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support IN, aligning its underside with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). Once the glue is dry, glue the bottom shelf in place. G.

Saw out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, using them to align the bottom shelf, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows countersinking mounting and pilot holes in one operation without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and pilot holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled node B/F/G and secure with screws (a photoD).

Brief advice! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several parts of the base at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait for the glue to dry completely before attaching the next piece. Cut out the back wall J and, having tried it on the opening, make sure that the upper edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support IN. Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the sides in place I fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then fix the last support with glue and screws. IN. When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top bar H (photoF) and glue the part in place (Fig. 1).

Glue the sides I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To make the drawers I parallel to each other along the entire length, mark the exact length of the upper bar H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right leg support again V/S and attach to the assembled left side of the base B/D/F-J using glue and screws (Fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports IN slats E fixing them with clamps. Using a sanding pad, make a rounding with a radius of 3 mm on the upper outer edge of the left plank.

Milling table drawings

Measuring and marking out project details with a tape measure and ruler can be difficult to achieve accuracy, especially if the actual plywood thickness differs from the nominal. Instead, for accuracy, it is better to use the parts themselves or scraps of material for dimensional adjustment of machines. To make precise cutouts for drawer side I in the middle support B, follow this method.

To adjust the width of the notch, make a cut in the plywood trim, lifting the disk so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When setting the depth of cut, measure the distance from the stop to outside saw blade teeth.

Attach a wooden overlay to the head of the cross (corner) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. The longitudinal stop serves as a limiter for the last pass.

Cover the lid

1. Take the lid cut earlier BUT and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Using a hole saw, make a 38 mm hole in the center of the cover (a photoG).

Clamp cover A to the workbench, placing a board to prevent chips. Drill a hole for the cutter in the center of the cover.

Place the plastic footplate on top of cover A and center it so that the controls of the power tool are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router you are about to install on the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover (photo H). Drill holes and countersink them.

3. Cut out the planks of the lid To. Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the slats (Fig. 2). Drill holes with a diameter of 6mm (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid BUT and secure with clamps.

Secure both K planks to the workbench by stacking them with a plank underneath to avoid chipping.

Drill a 5mm diameter hole through the pivot hole. Then make a hole with a diameter of 6 mm on the right. The depth of the holes must correspond to the length of the fastener.

4. Put the lid on A/K on the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the end of the plank E, focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes in the top bar To drill a 5 mm hole for the axle screw and a 6 mm hole for the right locking screw (Fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a capercaillie screw 6×35 mm into the axial hole. Lift the lid and through the left locking hole, drill a hole with a diameter of 6 mm for the locking screw that fixes the lid in the raised position.

Add a longitudinal stop

1. Cut out the front wall and the base of the stop L. Mark the same semicircular cutouts (Fig. 3). Then, as described in the "Advice of the Master", carefully cut them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out spacers M and clamps N. Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue dries, set the stop L/L on assembled clamps M/N, align the parts and drill through holes with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 3, photoL).

With a board under to prevent chipping, align the L/L stop over the assembled M/N clamps. After fixing all the parts with clamps, drill a through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Adjust the crosscut to a 45° angle and saw off two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the 90° angle again to saw off two more gussets.

3. From a plywood strip measuring 19x76x305 mm, cut out triangular scarves Oh (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (Fig. 3).

Craft Strong Crates

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut out two blanks measuring 100 × 254 mm for the front and back walls R. From one blank, cut out two back walls and set them aside. On the second workpiece, mark the cutouts of the front walls (Fig. 4) and carefully cut them out (see "Craftsman's Tip" below) before splitting the workpiece into two front walls.

Brief advice! It is more convenient to make cutouts before you start cutting out the front walls so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest against the clamps pressing the workpiece.

Cutting sharp curves with a jigsaw

Even installing a saw blade with the most fine teeth, making neat cuts with a small radius is not easy, as the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up and burns are formed.

Try it this way: before cutting out the contour cut, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo on the right. Then cut out the cut, leading the file with a slight indent from the contour line. As the saw blade moves forward, the small pieces formed by the straight cuts will fall out one after the other without interfering with the movement of the file and giving room to maneuver if a slight change in path is required. Sand the edges of the cutout to the contour line using a cutter plastic pipe wrapped with sandpaper.

2. Cut out the side walls from 12mm plywood Q and bottoms R. Set those details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover BUT. If the original soleplate mounting screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert a 12 mm rebate cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Cut 12x12mm seams along three sides of the front and back walls R. Replace the cutter and make 3 mm radius fillets on the edges of the semi-circular front wall cutouts.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts and fixing them with clamps (Fig. 5). From trimming 6 mm plywood, make rotary constipation S and sand at the corners with a radius of 6 mm. Drill mounting holes with counterbores and attach braces to front edge of middle post B (Fig. 1). Now insert the boxes, fill them with boxes with cutters and you can start milling.

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Definition of a milling table, its design

Device with which you can perform: grooves in the workpiece, grooves. make spiked joints, process the edges of products, called a milling table. It is inconvenient to use a milling cutter separately, the master will have to concentrate on the workpiece and at the same time on processing. A do-it-yourself milling table facilitates the work process, it can be mounted on a workbench or a special design can be made for it.

Important! When carrying out work on the manufacture of a specialized table, it must be remembered that the router is installed from below, free space must be allocated for it. The stationary part of any table is the bed, it is a strong frame with a tabletop.

frame material milling table can be:

1. Wooden beam.
2. Metal corners.
3. Boards: MDF, chipboard.

The requirement for the frame is the creation of stability for the countertop and the rigidity of the structure. When a milling table is made with one's own hands, the overall parameters of the bed are determined from the materials that require processing.

How to make a frame for a milling machine

Despite the simplicity of manufacturing a frame for a tabletop, a homemade milling machine must correct operation Meet requirements:

The table design includes mounting plate. it is needed to mount the router.

How to make a mounting plate

Position the mounting plate at the point of attachment of the sole of the router. For its manufacture, a material is selected that meets the criteria:

• Strength.
• Thickness - the thinner the better.

Experts recommend using sheet metal for self-manufacturing of the mounting plate of the milling machine, you can use fiberglass or textolite. Overall dimensions of a rectangular shape, thickness within 4 mm to 8 mm. It is necessary to make a hole in the center of the plate, which in diameter fits the hole on the sole of the hand router.

The router is equipped with a plastic pad that is attached to the threaded holes on the sole, these holes are used to attach it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, they must be made in the sole of the router. Another method of fastening the router is also proposed, this is with metal brackets-springs. Mounting plate attached to the tabletop at the corners .

Do-it-yourself milling table assembly instructions

To assemble the clamping device, rollers or a ball bearing of the desired diameter are used. It is mounted in a holding device, which is rigidly fixed at the right distance from the plane of the tabletop.

This device provides a tight pressing of the overall workpiece to the plane of the tabletop when it passes under the roller. This simple addition increases the accuracy of the work carried out, improves labor safety.

You can assemble a functional milling table with your own hands when the master has information about the electric drive that will be used in the work. Consider the power parameter to select an electric drive:

Important! Experts recommend that before assembling the milling machine, determine the power of the milling machine, it must not be less than 2 kW. This power enables the master to work with any wood. It is recommended to choose models of milling cutters with rotation speed control. The rotational speed of the router is very important for obtaining an even cut on the workpiece. If this parameter is high, the cut will be clean.

Safe use of the router table

When the milling table is assembled and the electric drive is installed, do not rush to immediately check it in operation, make sure that the work performed is correct. What experts recommend for safe work on the milling table:

• It is advisable to install a protective screen on the countertop, it can be of its own design or industrial design.
• Be sure to check the presence of an emergency stop button electrical equipment, it should be in the form of a "fungus" and located in the area where the master is located, so that you can press it with the body body.
• Equip the work area with light illumination.
• When the milling table is used for frequent cutter changes for work, it is recommended to equip it with automatic device cutter lift.

In equipping a homemade milling table no restrictions. there is only one requirement for them: to increase the safety and efficiency of the work being carried out.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands with design drawings

With the milling table, you can professional processing tree. Connections, end profiling, door and window frames, plinths, frames for photographs and paintings are made neatly and conveniently on the table. A factory-made table can fly into a pretty penny with dubious quality. Why not make it yourself? Moreover, the design is not at all complicated, further drawings will be disassembled in detail.

The main parts of the milling table

homemade milling table

There are many options for milling tables. As a rule, masters create unique drawings for their needs. But the basic design is the same regardless of the size of the machine. Here is a table 90 x 48 x 30 cm, top and supports made of plywood No. 27, workbench legs welded from a steel corner.

The main elements of the table for a manual router, the quality and design of which will determine the convenience of work and functionality.

First you need to decide on the type of future machine:

If you plan to work on the road, a drawing of a small portable structure will do. At permanent job in the workshop, a reliable and powerful stationary table will be convenient. It can be mounted on wheels and moved around the room. And for a small workshop, the aggregate version is good, it is an extension of the tabletop of the saw machine or its rotary version.

Cover material

The most practical countertops are made of chipboard, pasted over with thin plastic or MDF with a melamine layer. Such material is very easy to cut with a jigsaw, and it will last a long time.

Pressed worktops are not suitable for work in damp rooms and outdoors! So that they do not swell, all edges will have to be carefully processed and sealed.

Very good homemade countertops from plastic sheets. They are smooth, even and easy to work with. Such a machine can be used in any conditions.

Metal countertops are harder to make, they are heavy. And aluminum sheets must be additionally clad - covered with a layer that prevents contamination of parts.

Stop groove

Typically, a milling table is used for processing longitudinal edges. In order to be able to process the transverse ends, when creating a home-made machine, it is necessary to provide for a movable stop that moves in the groove. The built-in groove is also used for mounting clamping devices.

Fixing the router

There are two options for attaching a hand router to a table:

• directly to the bottom surface of the countertop;
• to the removable mounting platform.

When making a do-it-yourself milling table, they often use the first method, as it is simpler. But the mounting plate equipment has a number of advantages in operation:

• up to 1 cm of the depth of processing of the part is released;
• the router is easier to remove for changing cutters.

Therefore, we recommend to tinker a little longer and equip the mounting plate. It must be flush with the surface of the countertop, otherwise the workpiece will touch the protrusions. Even more convenience is provided by a cutter elevator, the design of which will be discussed in detail later.

Longitudinal stop

It serves as a guide for the part, so it must be even. You can make an emphasis with a T-slot, into which clamps and other devices are inserted to facilitate work.

Homemade table

The most primitive drawing of a home-made table for a router is an MDF table top, in which a hole is made for the passage of the cutter and a guide ruler is attached - an evenly planed board. Such a tabletop can be placed between two workbenches or installed on its own legs. Its advantages are in the simplest and quickly manufactured design. Such a device is unlikely to allow performing serious woodwork. Consider more functional options, including rotary.

Small milling table

neat and small table

A desktop model for a manual router, which you can make yourself in a few evenings. Lightweight construction and mobile, fits on a shelf, takes up little space, and its drawings are simple.

• The work surface and side racks are made of thick laminated plywood No. 15. Tabletop size 40 x 60 cm, height without corner stop 35 cm, stop height 10 cm. Three grooves are selected in the surface of the desktop for installing rails. Various auxiliary devices are installed here and moved along the countertop.
• To make the structure stable, the legs are made of chipboard or MDF No. 22. The legs are placed with a slight indent, leaving some space for attaching templates, clamps with clamps.
• To cover the mechanism, a front panel made of plywood or chipboard is installed from below.
• For the side stop, grooves are provided along which it moves. Stopped in right place using bolts with wing nuts. The emphasis can be dismantled and installed on the vacant place any convenient device.
• A branch pipe is connected to the stop for removing chips, which are released in abundance during operation. The chip guides of the milling cutter and the table through plastic corrugations from the sewer siphons are combined with a splitter for the water supply. A hose from a household vacuum cleaner is attached to it on a clamp. It turns out a very effective system for removing chips, it practically does not scatter around the room.
• Since the machine is designed for a hand router, a special on-off toggle switch is not required.
• The stop consists of two parts, which approach or move apart depending on the diameter of the working body. A wing nut is provided for fastening the sash. The proposed model is good in that the tool can be easily removed from the bed to replace the cutters.
• The mounting platform for the router is made of textolite or plexiglass. Pre-dismantled plastic playground from the cutter kit. The recesses for the mounting site are selected with a milling cutter, and the hole is cut with an electric jigsaw. When the hole is ready, the plexiglass is adjusted to its size and shape. It should fit tightly and without protrusions into the window.

You can make several mounting pads of the same size with holes for different cutter diameters.

This option is convenient for small hand tools. If a stationary table is made for a large milling cutter, insert rings are attached to one mounting platform for different cutter diameters.

To ensure that the workpiece moves smoothly, movement stops are installed on the side stop. Also, clamps are attached to the side stop, which hold the part near the cutter during operation. Additional convenience is created by a sled along which the workpiece moves at a right angle. And to make work safe, pushers are made.

The table is ready for use, its disadvantage is the lack of adjustment of the working depth. This is done manually, by pressing on the tool. From the first time it is impossible to "get" into the desired depth. Therefore, we recommend equipping the table with a lift.

A hole must be made in the bed where the adjusting bolt with a wing nut is inserted. The depth of milling is smoothly changed by twisting the lamb.

Some craftsmen fit old car jacks under the elevator for a powerful router. The device is attached under the router, a hole is made in the side wall to bring the jack handle out. The handle of the jack can be bent at the desired angle; when rotated, the router smoothly moves up and down in 2 mm increments.

Another model of a homemade milling table for a router in a video:

Examples of milling table designs and their drawings

Construction 1

When buying a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks and scope of work performed for it. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, is trying to find a universal option, to combine the accuracy in processing on the machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.

In this article, we will consider a compromise option - a do-it-yourself table for a manual router, the drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.

To make a do-it-yourself milling table, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or to buy a ready-made version, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.

The working process of a hand mill is to move the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the milling cutter is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes a little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.

A number of milling operations are preferably performed only in a stationary position - the selection of grooves and grooves, all kinds of ways to process the edges of products and the laying of tenon joints.

The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.

Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands. The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual milling cutter from the structure, and after completing the work, mount it again.

The main elements of the milling table

Consider the option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to do with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.

It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:

• bed;
• countertop;
• mounting plate;
• longitudinal stop;
• clamping combs.

You can assemble a table for a manual router with your own hands from improvised materials (cutting plywood sheet, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We put together a frame for the machine from boards or use old table, nightstand.
Anything that will allow you to respond rigidly and stably to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions of the supporting structure of the machine will do.

Making the machine frame with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only when taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.), the work process will take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.

table top

For a work surface, it is convenient to use a kitchen worktop. But this option is relevant if you have changed kitchen furniture and the old countertop is lying idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.

The recommended thickness for the countertop is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a durable and reliable table for a manual cutter. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the supply of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.

The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed, the width of the tabletop changes, and the depth and thickness are unchanged. The figure shows a worktop, the dimensions of which are suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory, each master changes them for specific conditions and requirements.

A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for mounting a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the mounting plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded to install the mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the fold is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the table surface.

For greater functionality of the machine and the possibility of processing parts of different sizes, grooves are selected in the table top. They are equipped with a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal pressure comb in the required position.

Mounting plate

The mounting plate is needed to secure the router to the table. It is made of durable materials such as: metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. For fastening, self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used. For ease of control over the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.

The plate should fit snugly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over mounting the router directly to the bottom of the table top. The small thickness of the plate increases the depth of milling and allows you to easily dismantle the router with your own hands. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter being used. The cutter diameter ranges from 3mm to 76mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with changeable rings to change the cutter hole.

Longitudinal stop

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required, which guides the workpiece along the table. A do-it-yourself result of work will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the countertop. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.

A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working body, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.

Longitudinal stop (front view)

Longitudinal stop (rear view)

Pressure combs

To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.

The vertical comb is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the comb moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.

The horizontal clamping stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves along and across in a horizontal plane.

1. If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table with your own hands, with which you can adjust a comfortable height for work.
2. For the durability of the equipment, the wood parts of the milling table are covered with protective layer(paint, varnish).
3. Mount protective glass on a longitudinal stop, which will protect the eyes from chips and dust.
4. Wear gloves to protect your hands while operating the milling machine.
5. Do not wear loose-fitting clothing.
6. Use manual milling machines with a rated power of more than 1100 watts.
7. Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank.

Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:

• before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
• do not apply great force when milling (too much feed will damage the tool);
• install the cutter in the collet at 3/4 of the shank length, but not close, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
• using cutters large diameter, reduce the rotation speed;
• disconnect the tool from the power supply before carrying out adjustment and maintenance;
• keep an eye on the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged copies.

Reliable do-it-yourself milling table

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since the milling cutter does not move along the surface being machined, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives more opportunities for processing parts. As a result, the blanks of products are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work.

compact homemade construction replace industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and unmovable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Construction scheme

For self-manufacturing of countertops, MDF boards are usually used, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, light in weight and durable.

Wooden structure easy to handle and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is prone to corrosion, so it must be painted.

Milling table tops must be smooth. Often they are made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is immune to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for the longitudinal stop fasteners. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the manufactured models of countertops are made of MDF boards or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the sole of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminium. The plate for the router must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the insert protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices to level the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the work surface of the milling table.

Create convenience in selecting the diameter of the cutter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixed overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. You can read more about self-manufacturing of this design here.

Necessary tools and materials

1. Joiner's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood
5. Electric jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculation

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden poles or between two pedestals. The easiest way to create a table top, base and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The plate laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table, we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table schemes

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the top of the table will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a single 19mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a replacement for this material.

• Sawing sheet material into fragments according to the specified sizes.

1 - working surface; 2 - emphasis base; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - scarf (4 pieces sizes for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsarga (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting bar (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not match the specified parameters or be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic lining from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking the cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic overlay will serve as a template when marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, 90x70 cm in size, make markings for the cutter. To do this, draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge, putting a mark. Then place the overlay so that the router adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be fixed with screws.

Mounting holes must match the trim

• Measure the diameter of the lining and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determination of its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicular to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Fasten four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the table top with screws.

Use carpentry or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the rest of the blanks and secure them with screws. Install a router on the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the goats; 2 - tsarga; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - stop base

• Now you need to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - external side stand; 2 - internal rack; 3 - rear rack; 4 - base

• Cut plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, fixing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then you need to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut out a square from the specified material, the sides of which are equal to 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the overlay and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.

Allows the cutter to handle the details as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. On the countertop, draw and cut a cutout, the edges of which are processed with sandpaper.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them from the back of the tabletop with a 11 mm drill. Lay the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the sole of the router. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten it with screws.

The holes of the worktop and the plate must match

• For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the further processing of the ends. narrow details. To do this, you need to cut guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.

Swivel and side stop make the process convenient

• Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for fastening clamps, linings and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a piece of 140x178 mm in size from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter for the vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For a stop, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience.

• For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out the details from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a clamp-comb, it is better to use maple wood. To cut the part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood fibers. Ridge slots are best done circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix details when processing small fragments

• Fix the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work. Clean all wooden elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it are possible. Before starting the router, you need to remove all tools from the surface of the countertop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the scattering of particles.

While working at the table, it is unacceptable to clean and lubricate parts, remove protective screen and measurement of workpieces. Protective goggles must be worn to prevent the flying particles from getting into the eyes. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to place hands close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure that they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correctness of sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a do-it-yourself milling table

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact design of the milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

DIY wood milling machine - how to make

The amount of work to be done will depend on which version of the table you need.

Milling tables are of several types:

1. Stationary
   Free standing full desktop.
2. Portable
   Desktop design, which is installed if necessary.
3. Aggregate
   An option when an expansion of the surface of the saw table is made to work with the router (pictured).

Structural elements

In this article, we will consider a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with the design of any other type.

The most important part of the table is the frame. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a tabletop (including metal plate and other components of the table). The bed height varies from 75 cm to 1 meter and is adjusted individually.

As a bed, an old unnecessary table is quite suitable, which is easy to convert into a milling table.

The tabletop is made of chipboard, chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. The optimal sheet thickness is 16 mm. The material for the bed should be chosen taking into account the fact that wooden blanks will constantly move along its surface. Therefore, it must be smooth. Often the countertop is made of metals that are not subject to corrosion (for example, aluminum).

There is a mounting plate in the middle of the table top. Many people think that you can do without this detail, but this is not so. The mounting plate is the holder for all milling equipment.

The thickness of the plate should be no more than 8 mm. The material of manufacture depends on the desire and possibilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the plate, suitable in size for the sole of the router.

Important: router models differ from each other, so when making a table, you should take into account that its height should ideally fit your height, and the router mount and hole size should be exactly for your tool.

Stationary milling table

Consider the option of manufacturing a milling table with a metal frame and a Dutch plywood top.

Materials and tools

In order to make a table for a manual milling cutter with your own hands, you will need materials:

• metal corner or pipe (for the frame)
• aluminum guide
• axis for fastening the router
• putty, primer and paint for metal
• self-tapping screws
• furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
• adjusting hexagon bolts with nuts - 4 pcs.
• plywood Finnish moisture resistant laminated, 18 mm thick (other material can be taken)
• boards or scraps of plywood (for the manufacture of a parallel stop).

The following tools are also required:

• welding machine (for the metal frame of the table)
• drill and drills
• screwdriver
• jigsaw
• router
• spatula, brushes, rags.

You may also be interested in the article on how to make a jigsaw table with your own hands.

And about how to make a table for yourself sewing machine can be found in this article.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. To begin with, we make a table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel stop will move. Legs are attached to them.

It is possible to weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter where the countertop will be located) along a corner long with a pipe so that the countertop sits on these corners in a recess.

Another option that we will use is to install additional supports for the countertop: we weld two more pipes on the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut a hole for fixing the device).

In order to make the workplace more stable, we weld reinforcing jumpers between the legs of the table, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.

Step 2 For coloring you need to take oil paint(Not suitable for aluminum and zinc!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it with any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can putty the surface with a special putty and prime it.

Note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and a ventilated area.

For primers you can use the same paint, which will be further stained, but diluted with a solvent. Longer term and qualitative the result is obtained by processing specialized compositions for metal.

After application last standing it is necessary to wait for the full drying out and only then proceed to further actions.

Step 3 The tabletop is cut exactly under metal carcass so that it lies firmly in the corners. For greater strength, you can drill (with a drill for metal) holes in metal pipes (or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. The size of the finished tabletop is 84 x 59 cm, the height of the table is 90 cm.

Step 4 At a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge we cut aluminum rail along the entire length of the table.

Step 5 Cut the axis for the milling cutter in half. This will help increase the space between the sole and the axle to 11mm (if you use uncut axles, this distance will be only 6mm).

Step 6 We remove the sole from the router and in the middle of the table top we mark 4 holes for its fastening, we drill them. In the middle of the tabletop we make a hole for the router. For each tool, the hole size will be different! Holes are drilled to the left and right of the hole, into which bolts for fastening the clamps of the milling axes are inserted (they will not be removed anymore).

Step 7 On the reverse side, it is necessary to make a large groove under the router sole milling cutter.

In the groove itself, above and below the through hole, cut out small grooves (with a milling cutter) equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves with a Forstner drill, make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hexagonal hole.

Step 8 From the pieces of the pipe we cut out two segments equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We got the clamps of the axes of the milling cutter. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.

Step 9 Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and necessary in order to plane adjustment milling cutter.

Step 10 We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this. With an electric jigsaw, three plywood strips of the same size are cut (length of the strip = table length + guide tube width) and 4 stiffeners for them.

In one plywood strip, a semicircular hole is made for the exit of chips, which should correspond to the slot in the countertop. In the second strip, a square hole is made in the same place.

The third plywood strip is sawn in half. It is attached to the back of the strip with a square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for them to move) or simple guides. The halves of plywood should move apart in different directions. An aluminum guide is installed at the very top edge of this strip.

Step 11 We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We fix the stiffeners: two - along the edges of the resulting big hole at the junction of plywood strips and one at a time - on both sides (at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge).

We cut out a small square from thin plywood (which would fit between the stiffeners located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. Plywood is attached to the stiffeners, forming a triangular box.

Step 12 The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and rearranged. If it is completely designed for a router, you can fix stop using brackets with grooves for its movement.