How to make frame walls. The right frame wall pie - through the eyes of members of the forum

The wall of any house, which seems to be monolithic from the outside, has long been in fact a “layer cake”. This fully applies to the currently popular frame structures. It is important to understand how they are arranged and what affects the technical characteristics of houses.

Peculiarities

The walls of a frame house can be very different in execution, it depends on whether the building is created for urban life in the first place or as a summer cottage. Things are different when choosing concrete blocks and other standardized materials, where only the thickness can be varied, but not the sequence of layers. In the case of a frame-type construction, it will be possible to use smaller racks and use available materials for sheathing.

It is worth taking into account not only the responsibility of the structure being created, but also the climatic properties of the area.

Device

The cake of walls sheathed with various materials on the outside is built according to the universal rule. Namely: the vapor permeability should systematically increase from one layer to another. Given the low permeability of OSB to water vapor, it is not recommended to use this material for sheathing. A membrane is usually placed behind the front layer, which dampens the negative effects of the wind. It is desirable that this protection also has the function of waterproofing.

Next is the vapor barrier. As a result, the main task is solved: prevention of the penetration of drafts and precipitation, melt water into the thickness of the wall. And thanks to the vapor-retaining layer, water vapor does not penetrate intensively from the rooms into the warming part.

Internal wooden lintels, contrary to some recommendations, do not need to be equipped. External counter-warming is required only to increase the energy efficiency of the home by helping to block the penetration of cold through:

• overlaps;
• strapping;
• crossbars.

The need for such thermal insulation arises only with a small thickness of the main insulation. It is necessary to put the jumpers mentioned above to strengthen the rigidity of the frames only when mounting it on the jibs. They are mounted on the inner walls when sheathing the house with solid slabs. When calculating the total thickness of structures, it should be remembered that strictly minimum parameters are recorded in SNiP. They are suitable for a guide, but builders and experienced customers always carry out calculations on an individual basis to take into account all the nuances.

The right choice can only be made by the owners themselves, focusing primarily on their own tastes, financial capabilities and climatic requirements. But many years of practice has made it possible to find out some universal requirements and points. In houses intended for permanent habitation, the walls are made from 15 cm thick. This allows you to use a typical edged board of the most massive format and insulate the wall in a variety of ways. Similar requirements apply to those buildings in which they plan to live only in winter.

Summer country houses can do without significant insulation. The absence of heating in winter avoids the occurrence of dew points and damage to basic materials. You can limit yourself to one layer of insulation, and make the walls about 5 cm. It seems that everything is simple, but there is one moment that can radically change things. The thinner the outer wall, the less its bearing capacity.

The roof, even the lightest and most compact, has a mass of hundreds of kilograms. And snow drifts will press from above, regardless of whether someone is in the house at that time or not. In large buildings, it is recommended to install walls from a 50x150 mm board, mounting the insulation in the form of a single layer. This will ensure durability and at the same time preserve the basic qualities of housing. Dachas are built at their own discretion, since they are inhabited only periodically; but it’s better to play it safe right away and prepare a full-fledged house with walls from 10 cm.

More rigorous estimates already involve the collection of various information, the use of formulas and coefficients, it is very difficult to find all the necessary data. For non-specialists, it is easier and faster to use various online calculators. If several of these resources give one figure, and the builders insist on another, there is reason to wonder if they really are such “professionals”. There is another way of calculating, starting from the standard sizes of edged boards. They look at what boards are required for the frame, form a sketch, determine how window and door openings will be placed.

When drawing a diagram or drawing in detail or in its most general form, it is not enough to come up with a “beautiful move”, you should also take care of the maximum reliability of the design. You need to think about:

• points of use of fasteners and their types;
• arrangement of products and ventilation;
• connection of the wall with the roof and foundation;
• the optimal size and shape of windows and doors.

A good set of shop drawings included with the project will definitely indicate what sizes of posts are used, how far apart they are from each other, where the jibs are mounted. You should make sure that it shows how the posts in the corners will be connected, whether they correspond to the technology of a warm corner, what the junction of the internal walls will be. Instead of a picking list, true professionals use the indication of the exact dimensions of any fragment of the structure in the same place where it is drawn. As you know, many still include OSB in a residential frame house, because this material has a number of attractive properties.

Essentially, this is the same wood, only stronger and more flexible at the same time. Facilitating processing allows you to form even very intricate architectural elements. Sandwich panels, due to their homogeneous structure, do not have voids that inevitably appear in sawn timber with knots. High density (150% more than chipboard) is also a significant plus, as is the moisture resistance of the oriented slab. When assembling, it is permissible to use all types of fasteners that currently exist.

But even these advantages and the comfortable cost of oriented slabs do not mean that one should forget about their reduced permeability to water vapor. Therefore, it is worth looking for a completely different material for the front finish of a frame house.

When choosing a specific solution and executing it, the following errors can be made:

• disregard for the occurrence of the dew point;
• lack of adhesive tape at the joints of the vapor barrier;
• vapor barrier of the building insulation on both sides at once;
• lack of vapor barrier in principle;
• lack of wind protection, or mounting it under the inner layers.

Such moments seem obvious to the limit, but in reality it is precisely such errors that cause a lot of problems for residents of wooden frame-type houses. It is better not to invent something from scratch, but to use varieties of “pies” that have been worked out for a long time. Violation of the technology leads to wetting of the insulation, to the occurrence of mold nests on the racks and their decay.

According to experts, the most correct sequence of materials is as follows:

• basic finishing of internal walls with plasterboard;
• vapor barrier;
• insulating layer;
• hard plate material;
• wind protection;
• exterior finish (for example, siding fixed on a counter-lattice and separated from it by an air gap).

To understand why such a sequence is considered optimal, you need to delve into the essence of the physical processes occurring in the thickness of the frame wall. The water vapor passing through it condenses (precipitates) from the air as the temperature drops. In addition to the degree of heating, the appearance of such condensate is also affected by the humidity of the air both inside and outside. The larger it is, the higher the temperature starts the formation of condensate.

High-density polyethylene is often used for vapor barrier, its thickness is at least 200 microns.

Mounting

The polyethylene vapor barrier is attached using a construction stapler. Staples are driven into the racks every 300 - 400 mm. Joint lines must be pasted over with bituminous glue. When joining is not overlapped, it is recommended to use a special type of adhesive tape. Instead of polyethylene, you can mount foil isol with your own hands.

On top of this material, each joint is covered with butyl rubber tape. As a power sheathing fastened inside the house, some experts suggest using not only OSB, but also fiberboard, grooved board or plywood. This solution allows you to create walls with intensive ventilation at the micro level. But full air exchange can be ensured only with the help of real ventilation.

Important: If rigid sheathing materials are mounted with a gap, additional steam protection is required.

For installation in load-bearing walls, wooden beams and boards, moisture-resistant plywood are used. The vast majority of developers and teams opt for planed timber without profiling, made in the form of a square or rectangle. Products must undergo active chamber drying, the size of at least one side must be 10 cm or larger. You can tie the bars both with exactly the same products and with a board - the technology allows both. Profiled products have an attractive appearance and help save money, because they not only form a frame, but also become internal walls.

The use of glued beams has its advantages - high installation speed, and the absence of unnecessary difficulties. In addition, the force impact and deflection are almost not reflected in this material.

Important: if waterproof plywood is found in the step-by-step instructions, you cannot confuse it with moisture-resistant plywood. Only the first type of material is acceptable for decorating walls outside. SIP panels are an alternative to these materials and oriented slabs for the exterior of a frame house.

Industrial production and a wide range of standard sizes facilitate installation. In addition, the relatively low weight provides significant savings in the construction of walls and roofs. Bearing and external walls are mounted at the same time. It is impossible to refuse special load-bearing walls in a house measuring 6x6 m. It is not difficult to recognize the need for this element: if it is possible to lean on the outer walls with the ends of the floor logs without deflection, there is simply no need for load-bearing structures.

Soundproofing material can be used both in external walls and in interior partitions. The differences are that inside the house it is less relevant.

In addition, you need to think about the combination of thermal and acoustic properties in one substance, this will allow:

• reduce costs and thickness of structures;
• relieve them;
• simplify installation.

Filling the load-bearing walls with insulation can be partial, but care must be taken to securely connect the mineral wool with the structure. This is achieved by increasing the number of brackets in the upper part and along the perimeter in comparison with the insulation of the sides of the house. The distance between brackets is exactly 100 mm. A membrane or other fabric as noise protection is relatively well suited for load-bearing walls. When the dwelling is heated on both sides of such a wall, it is permissible to use tar paper.

Contrary to popular belief, a strong unpleasant smell will cease to excite tenants in a week. But saving money will please them for a very long time. A construction stapler helps to fix the sound insulation. On top are inch boards, the gaps between which are determined by the type of finishing material. For plasterboard, as well as for lining, leave a gap of 600 mm between the middle of the boards; the lower and upper boards are placed regardless of the interval.

It is very important to record the description of the appearance of the crate on paper and photograph it in high resolution. When you need to screw hardware into the wall, there will be no need to proceed by trial and error. At points where reinforcement is needed, it is advisable to fill the boards immediately. This applies to the attachment points of any hanging cabinets, large shelves and mirrors. Returning to the interior partitions, it must be said about two methods for creating them.

The wall pie of a frame house is a multilayer structure, but its features are known only to professionals. And we will try to master this technology on our own.

The device of frame walls

Such walls have found their widest distribution in frame construction, and, as it has already become clear, they consist of several layers. What materials should be stocked up if you want to give preference to this particular type of construction? And what order are all the components in? Let's start studying the device in order. It goes without saying that you can’t do without a frame, because it was such a scheme that gave the name to this technology. In addition, we will need vapor barrier, battens (vertical and horizontal), finishing materials, OSB board, as well as mineral insulation, mats, mineral wool, etc. are quite suitable. Now let's make the right pie out of all this.

The device of multilayer walls of a frame house is as follows. As a skeleton, of course, the frame itself is made of timber, between the uprights of which there is a layer of insulation. Further, if you move outward, there is a fifteen-millimeter OSB slab, then both types of battens, between which a membrane layer is placed, which acts as a wind insulation, and then directly the outer sheathing material. The interior decoration scheme has a slightly simpler device - vapor barrier and sheathing. In order for the air not to stagnate in the room, there must be forced ventilation, since OSB panels do not pass it well.

Features of frame construction

In this paragraph, we consider what is important to pay attention to when choosing a design. It is very important to consider the purpose of the building - whether it will be residential or used only as a summer residence. This directly affects the optimal thickness of the walls of the frame house. Namely, if we are talking about a summer country house, then you can save a little on racks and take them with a smaller section than for year-round living quarters. And again, for the country option, you can use cheaper sheathing materials, because in this case less serious requirements will be imposed on the appearance of the building.

The right choice of insulation and vapor barrier largely depends on the region in which you are going to build, or rather, on its climate. So, if this is the northern part of the country, then, of course, the emphasis should be placed on energy saving, the design will contain both layers in sufficient quantities. But when there is predominantly heat and high humidity outside the window, then an additional layer of vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation will not interfere, but in cold regions such a wall pie arrangement is contraindicated.

Frame construction - the advantages and disadvantages of such housing

Before considering the direct erection of the correct pie of the walls of a frame house, we need to talk a little about the advantages and, of course, the disadvantages of this type of construction. The main advantage of the construction of such houses is the speed, the scheme is assembled in just a few months. And all thanks to the lack of shrinkage, you will not need to wait until the walls take their final position and only then proceed to the next steps.

In addition, this method is relatively inexpensive. Also, thanks to modern materials, it is possible to realize any fantasy literally in a matter of months, while the device at home will be quite reliable and durable. Now to the disadvantages. Of course, today there are a lot of special tools for fire-fighting wood, but nevertheless, such houses have relatively little fire resistance. And besides, it is highly likely that rodents or insects will start up in the cavities of the walls, so do not forget to take all the necessary measures to combat these pests.

We build ourselves - a diagram of the construction of a frame house

Having familiarized yourself with the scheme and features of the construction of the walls of a frame house, you should already go directly to the practical part. Here you have a choice - either trust the professionals, or take on the work yourself, but you will have to carefully select the materials, and this will require additional market research so as not to stumble upon a bad product.

How to build a frame house with your own hands - step by step diagram

Step 1: Preparatory Stage

First of all, you should decide on the amount of building material. To do this, a diagram of the wall arrangement is drawn, the necessary measurements and calculations are carried out. It will not be superfluous to provide foresight in the issue of tools, so that later in the process of work there are no unnecessary distractions. So, we need a drill, a screwdriver, a plumb line, a level, a construction ruler, a square, a hammer, it is quite possible that a jigsaw and metal shears will also come in handy. In addition, do not forget to purchase special antiseptics that should be used to treat all wooden elements in order to give them refractory properties and protect them from termites.

Step 2: Frame construction

It has already been said that the thickness of the walls of a frame house largely depends on the purpose of the building, and it is affected by the section of the racks. So the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupports for the living quarters must be at least 50 cm 2. First of all, the lower trim is being installed on the waterproofing of the foundation, and then logs are installed in its grooves. Naturally, all corners must be straight, and the horizontal is also aligned. To further simplify the work, it is recommended to maintain a distance between the lags equal to the thickness of the insulation. Then, after carefully treating all the elements with antiseptic agents, you can install the corner posts and fix them with the upper harness, and only after that mount the intermediate bars.

Be sure to check at each stage whether the horizontal and vertical are maintained, because the result depends on it.

Step 5: Interior work

The design of the inner side of the walls of a frame house consists of a smaller number of layers - only from a vapor barrier and directly finishing material. The latter is drywall, plywood, chipboard. If the room is residential, then be sure to pay attention to whether the composition of the finishing material is harmful to health, because some types of chipboard are poisonous and unsuitable for such use.

The construction of a frame house is a popular technology for winter or summer country houses. This technology is distinguished by simplicity, budgetary cost, efficiency, comparative ease of assembly, and the ability to quickly complete all work. It is important to design and calculate the labor intensity of work, the amount of materials, taking into account the climate and individual budget.

At the heart of a frame house are walls, their proper construction is one of the factors for successful construction. Frame houses can be built with your own hands.

Whether you will do the work yourself or prefer to turn to contractors, knowledge about the correct arrangement of the wall of a frame house will be useful, it will allow you to calculate the cost of work, determine the amount of materials needed and choose the best option.

Do-it-yourself construction requires a lot of free time: people with full employment will not be able to quickly cope with the volume of work.

The frame house is based on a rigid structure in which vertical posts are connected by horizontal lintels.

Frame house wall device (pie)

Insulation is placed in free cells, then the surface of the walls is finished inside and out. The frame is installed directly on the foundation, but during construction, you must first assemble each wall as a separate frame on a flat area next to the foundation. The walls of the frame house form a kind of “pie”, assembled according to strict rules.

• The calculation of the thickness of the walls is carried out taking into account the peculiarities of the climate and the purpose of the building;
• When choosing a heater, it is important to achieve good sound insulation, as well as thermal insulation, while calculating its quantity and optimal cost;
• It is important to protect the insulation from moisture and other adverse effects with the help of special films;
• Proper insulation laying technology will prevent heat loss, and energy savings also require calculation and planning.

Builders seek to reduce the cost of heating due to better building insulation. The calculation of the dimensions of the walls and the selection of insulation is the key to success.

Calculation of wall dimensions and selection of insulation

For this, the frame racks must be made of timber with a thickness of 200 mm or more. A cross frame is also allowed, knocked down from bars measuring 50x50 mm.

The wall thickness calculation depends on the climate: in warm areas, with hot summers and mild winters, the wall thickness can be reduced.

The calculation of indicators for a country house, which is visited only in the summer, will be simple: a wall thickness of 40 mm is enough, and a cut board about 15 cm wide, called “forty”, is suitable for the frame.

Foam plastic, mineral wool, as well as ecowool and polyurethane are used as heaters. Styrofoam is one of the cheapest materials, but it is fragile, insufficient in terms of sound insulation, combustible, and can be damaged by rodents. Mineral wool is popular in modern practice.

Insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool and polyurethane foam are quite expensive, but they have the best protective properties, their use will allow you not to worry about vapor barrier, but during the construction process it will require special equipment for their application.

Since the surface of a frame house, as a rule, for rigidity and strength, is sheathed with sheets of plywood or chipboard during construction, insulation can be attached directly to these sheets. Of great importance is the calculation of the amount of materials: it is recommended to use a double layer of insulation. Mineral wool sheets and sheathing material are separated by a windproof film. The insulation is attached with special glue, a stronger fixation can be achieved with the help of dish-shaped dowels.

For the external protection of the wall “pie”, a vapor barrier is needed inside the building and its waterproofing from the outside.

Vapor barrier inside the building and its waterproofing from the outside

Vapor barrier is necessary to avoid the condensation of wet vapors inside the walls and their entry into the insulation. When moisture penetrates, mineral wool will significantly lose its thermal insulation qualities, and large energy costs will be required for additional heating of the building. The waterproofing film is laid outside, from the side of the facade, this allows you to protect the wall structure from wind and precipitation. For vapor barrier, foil materials are used, for example, penofol, for waterproofing, glassine is required, membrane boards can be used. During construction, such boards are fastened with an overlap construction stapler, and the nodes must be carefully glued at the joints with a special tape.

Vinyl siding

Vinyl siding is used in country houses.

Vinyl siding

Its cost is inexpensive, it is not subject to rotting, rodents, it is characterized by ease of work and convenience in subsequent operation (easy to clean, looks neat), long service life. It is often used for cladding country houses or, if the developer wishes, to reduce the cost of finishing.

metal siding

It is used for facade cladding and metal siding, it is durable, resistant to impacts and attractive design - an image of a fabulous hut is created.
metal siding

Galvanized steel with a polymer coating does not rust, tolerates temperature extremes well.

Clapboard sheathing is distinguished by a number of disadvantages inherent in wooden materials - a tendency to dry out (swell), the effects of bark beetles. Modern impregnations are used that reduce the effects of harmful effects and the fire hazard of the structure, making possible fires self-extinguishing.

Among the wooden materials for facade cladding is a blockhouse that imitates timber, which is used for both interior decoration and exterior cladding. This material is stronger than round logs, it is attractive in design, but over time it still changes its shape, since it is a modified lining.

Sheathing should not be attached directly to the frame during construction.

Block house installation diagram

For summer houses, such a solution is possible, but if you need to spend even a few days in such a house in winter, steam condensates will begin to destroy the wood and moisten the insulation. For the construction of a winter house, pay attention to the good ventilation of the facade: for this, bars are nailed over the entire surface, 30-40 mm thick, then they are engaged in wall cladding. It is important to calculate the load on the foundation and accurately fill it, then the air circulation in the ventilation gaps will allow the condensate to erode naturally.

Brick

It is possible to cover the facade with facing bricks, but careful calculation of the load on the foundation and walls, which is significant in this case, is necessary so that the structures can withstand its weight.

Scheme of facade cladding with facing bricks

This material protects well from harmful effects, but the cost of such a cladding is among the most expensive.

Tile

The tiled cladding of the facade is distinguished by its reliability and long service life, but it is impossible to attach tiles to wooden elements with glue.

Tiled facade cladding

The technology of attaching tiles using self-tapping screws is expensive and time-consuming, if you choose this material, an accurate calculation will be required: it is necessary to determine both the amount of materials and the cost of work.

Plaster

Wall plaster is also not very popular in Russia due to its fragility.

Wall plaster

It is recommended to use plaster technology in three layers. For plastering in one layer, it is best to use a composition of Portland cement, white cement (lime) and sand. To avoid cracks, it is better to add fiberglass.

Fake diamond

Facade cladding with artificial stone has an attractive design, such material is quite light in weight and convenient in the process of laying, does not create a significant load on the foundation.

Facade cladding with artificial stone

The house, lined with artificial stone, looks very attractive.

Thermal panels

Sheathing the facade of wooden houses with thermal panels is recommended in regions where the temperature in winter drops below -25 degrees.

Sheathing the facade of wooden houses with thermal panels

For interior decoration, lining, wood-fiber boards are used, drywall is possible, but it does not tolerate temperatures below zero.

Finishing wagon

It is impossible to use it for finishing work on summer houses, which are not planned to be heated in winter.

As you can see, frame construction technology optimally combines quality and cost. The device of the walls of a frame house is excellent for high-quality insulation of a living space.

It is necessary to carefully design a frame house, perform an accurate calculation of work for the durability and reliability of the house.

This technology is characterized by simplicity of work and will ensure their low cost.

Video

In this video, you can learn a lot of interesting and new things about how to avoid mistakes and build the right frame walls.

It is not in vain that the frame technology of building houses is very popular among buyers of suburban housing. After all, this is both ease of construction, and low cost, and speed of assembly. But when designing such a house, it must be remembered that the walls of this house must protect not only from wind and cold, but also from extraneous noise. However, first let's talk about the frame house as a whole, because the walls themselves will not line up in the house.

Bottom trim

When the foundation is ready, we proceed to the construction of the house itself. It is very important at the very beginning to accurately set the strapping of the frame structure, because the stability of the whole house will depend on it. In fact, the lower trim of the frame structure is its basis, with the help of which the walls are attached to the foundation, and the load of the whole house on the foundation is evenly distributed. For the strapping device, as a rule, a bar with a section of 150 * 200 mm is used. At the same time, the distance between the vertical pillars of the frame should not exceed 2.5 meters.

Subtleties of the lower strapping device

Preparation for laying the strapping beam consists in arranging the waterproofing of the upper part of the foundation. One of the following materials is well suited for this: roofing material, bituminous mastic, etc., and then in order:

• we treat the strapping beam with an antiseptic;
• we make the joints of the beam half a tree and fix them with 120 mm staples and nails;
• to strengthen the structure, we fix the corner mates with metal corners;
• we fasten the frame house harness to the foundation with the help of an anchor bolt with a tightening nut.

Top harness

After installing the vertical racks of the outer walls of the house, it is the turn of the arrangement of the interfloor overlap. And this work should begin with the installation of the upper trim. As a material for it, you can use a double board with a thermal insulation gasket or a solid beam. The final thickness of such a prefabricated (or solid) beam should not be thicker than the vertical post of the frame wall. The height of the brace should be calculated by a specialist, since the uniform distribution of the load exerted by the upper structures on the lower part of the frame house depends on this parameter.

How to fasten a beam

The fastening methods are exactly the same as for the installation of the vertical racks of the frame: either with corners, or with fastenings by means of complete / incomplete cutting. Before installing the beams of the interfloor overlap, it is necessary to make the frame of the first floor sufficiently rigid, since the interfloor beams are also the joists of the floor of the second floor. The necessary rigidity of the frame will be given by permanent braces, which can be mounted either by cutting or using metal fasteners. You can also fix the braces by piercing them through with nails. At the same time, the length of the nail should be such that, having passed through the brace, it will go deep into the post by at least 80 mm.

Important! If you mounted the vertical racks of the frame using a notch, then all connecting nodes should be additionally reinforced with metal brackets, which can be made either from reinforcement with a cross section of 8-10 mm, or from sheet metal, the thickness of which is at least 3-4 mm.

Installation problems and solutions

1. Difficulties may arise during the installation of the strapping. You need to be prepared for them, but it will be even better if you foresee some nuances and prevent problems from arising.
2. So, when constructing a foundation of screw piles or blocks, it sometimes happens that its individual elements may not coincide with the rest in height, that is, they will not be located on the same level. As a result, the strapping will not fall on all piles and the load on it will be distributed unevenly.
3. In the future, it will be very difficult to correct something, therefore, even at the stage of laying the foundation, one should carefully check the geometry of the pile field and eliminate the identified errors immediately.
4. Sagging of the strapping beam above the foundation can be corrected with wooden shims, but it is best to prevent such sagging. All pillars must be placed on the same level.
5. When drilling a hole in the beam for the foundation anchor, proceed carefully, as there is a risk of getting cuts of the wrong size. For the same reason, wood can crack.

The essence of the wall element

A frame house is a special type of low-rise building based on a rigid structure consisting of vertical posts connected horizontally. This rigid structure is called the frame. The device of the wall of a frame house, in other words, is called a pie, since such a wall consists of several layers.

At first glance, it may seem that building a frame structure is very simple, and this is true, but the expected result can only be achieved by consistently completing all the steps, and adhering to a certain technology, which still has its own tricks:

1. Wall thickness - it must be selected in accordance with the purpose of the building and the climatic zone.
2. A good insulation is the material that combines quality and affordable cost.
3. Insulation must be protected from the effects of various atmospheric phenomena. For this, special films are used.
4. If the insulation is not installed correctly, then cold bridges can form in the walls - areas through which heat will escape.
5. External finishing is carried out taking into account all the requirements for the materials used in its construction.

Now about everything in order.

Wall thickness

The main task in the construction of any house is to make it as warm as possible, while reducing heating costs. This can only be achieved if the thermal conductivity of the walls is minimized. A properly arranged frame wall will keep the heat inside the room and not let the cold in from the outside. To achieve the maximum effect, the frame racks should be made of timber, 200 mm thick.

For areas with a hot climate, the walls can be made thinner - here the main task will be to minimize the cost of ventilation, air conditioning, and everything will depend on the size of the insulation.

If you are building a country house and plan to use it only in the summer, the wall thickness of 40 mm will be optimal. For the frame of such a house, an edged board - "magpie" with a width of about 150 mm is usually used.

wall insulation

If you look at the wall in section, you can see that the insulation occupies the main part of it. It performs the function of a building envelope - it provides reliable sound and heat insulation of the premises.

The main types of insulation for a frame house:

1. Polyfoam is an inexpensive material, but has many disadvantages. This is fragility, and low sound insulation, flammability, high risk of damage by rodents.
2. Mineral wool is the most popular material used today by most construction companies offering ready-made frame house projects.
3. Ecowool and polyurethane foam have exceptional protection parameters. When used as a heater, a vapor barrier is not required. The disadvantage is the rather high price.

We will consider filling the wall of a frame house using mineral wool as the most popular insulation as an example. And you will find more information about insulation and the risks of errors.

How to install insulation

Insulation can be laid both on top of the finished exterior finish, and directly into the frame. Usually, to ensure structural rigidity, the outer surface of the frame wall is sheathed with either plywood sheets or OSB boards. In this case, the insulation is attached to them. If you decide to make the outer skin of the edged board, then a special windproof film will need to be laid between the sheets of insulation and the skin.

Warming procedure

When cutting the insulation, cut out squares with an allowance of 50 mm in width on all sides. So mineral wool will lie tightly, without gaps and gaps.

Seal the joints between the post and the mat with narrow, double-folded strips of mineral wool. You can lay them with your hands, but it will be more convenient to use a screwdriver.

The best option would be a double layer of mineral wool between the posts, plus another layer on top. In this case, the risk of cold bridges will be reduced to zero.

The insulation is attached to a flat surface with special glue, and plate-shaped plastic dowels can be used as additional fixation.

Steam and waterproofing

A vapor barrier material must be laid under the inner lining of the wall of a frame house. A waterproofing film is laid over the insulation under the outer skin to protect the structure from wind and moisture.

The vapor barrier prevents damp vapors from escaping to the outside. If this element is neglected, the steam will condense inside the “pie” and penetrate into the insulation, which over time will lead to a deterioration in its properties and an increase in heating costs. Attention! If you decide to use ecowool or polyurethane foam as a heater, the vapor barrier will be superfluous.

When erecting frame buildings, penofol is usually used as a vapor barrier material, and glassine or membrane films are used for waterproofing. They need to be laid with an overlap, and fixed with a construction stapler. Joints and junctions are glued with a special self-adhesive tape.

Read about the independent construction of a frame house.

fine finish

The wall cake is sheathed with finishing materials on both sides. Since the wall of the frame house is perfectly flat, almost any available coating can be used to finish it. For exterior decoration of country houses, wooden or plastic materials are usually used:

• lining
• timber imitation (logs)
• vinyl siding

Often, when finishing the facade on their own, the owners of country houses do not pay attention to the recommendations of specialists and mount the cladding directly to the frame. Such a solution is quite viable if the house is operated exclusively in the summer, but if you live in such a house in the winter for at least a week, condensation will begin to accumulate under the sheathing, causing double harm - to destroy the wood and moisten the insulation.

In order to avoid such consequences and in order to initially lay the possibility of operating the house all year round, the facade must be made ventilated. To do this, bars 30-40 mm thick are nailed over the entire surface of the frame, and the lining is already placed on them. The main difficulty here is the exact pouring of the foundation so that it does not interfere with the penetration of air into the ventilation gap. Interior decoration is usually done with drywall, fiberboard or clapboard.

The walls of frame houses have an ideal structure for insulating interior spaces, so by assembling a wall cake in accordance with all the rules, you will get a warm, cozy and comfortable home.

Read about the perfect exterior finish.

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The walls of a frame house are erected like a constructor. They consist of several layers of different materials, each of which performs its function. Building a wall of a frame house with your own hands does not require much building experience. You need the ability to work with a saw, hammer, level, screw in screws, cut insulation, mount and adjust wall sheathing panels.

In addition, the construction of frame walls is not associated with the so-called "wet" processes, mixing adhesive mixtures or concrete. Therefore, they can be performed at any outdoor temperature, build your frame house at any time of the year. How should a frame wall be arranged? Where to start work and what is important to know in order for the frame house to turn out to be reliable and warm?

Mounting the power frame

The device of the wall of a frame house begins with the construction of the frame. This is the basis on which all other components of the wall will be attached - insulation, vapor barrier, wind protection, external and internal wall cladding. Like any support or skeleton, the frame must be reliable and strong enough. Therefore, the main requirement that is placed on the frame load-bearing structure is the correct choice of the dimensions of the bearing racks and beams, the correct determination of their cross section, as well as reliable fastening to each other.

Frame box.

Racks are vertical frame elements. Horizontal load-bearing elements are called beams. Connecting elements - jibs. Vertical posts and horizontal beams support the weight of the house. Stabilizers - ensure the reliability of the connection of vertical and horizontal elements of the frame house. How to mount racks, beams and jibs?

The installation of the frame is carried out on the finished foundation. Foundation pouring is the only construction operation that uses "wet" processes. Therefore, for winter construction, the foundation of a frame house is built in advance. If they are building in the summer, then they wait a week after the pouring is completed, and proceed to further assembly of the frame house. Frame walls are relatively “light”, so for their construction there is no need to wait a month until the concrete gains full structural strength.

Correct walls

• Mount the bed on a concrete foundation with waterproofing.
• In a horizontal position, the walls of a frame house are assembled.
• Lay out vertical support racks.
• Fasten with nails the vertical racks of the upper and lower strapping.
• They cut into the diagonal of the jib between the uprights and the lower harness.
• Under the upper harness, a crossbar is cut into all racks.
• Raise the walls of the frame house and fasten them together.
• Tie the inner and outer walls with the second upper strapping.
• Floor beams are mounted on top of the strapping.

Frame house wall

The outer walls of the frame house must provide high-quality thermal insulation of the inner living space. Therefore, consider what the wall of a frame house consists of, the wall device consists of a heater that limits heat loss. The layer of insulating material of the frame house should be sufficient to keep warm even in the most severe frosts.

Sectional wall.

As a rule, porous materials are used as heaters, which in themselves are short-lived. For their long-term use, protection from atmospheric moisture, rain, dew, internal steam, ground dampness, as well as from mechanical action (shocks, punctures, crushing, compression, etc.) is necessary. In addition, some heaters need wind protection.

Due to the need to protect the insulating material, the wall of the frame house in the section is equipped with several layers, namely:

• From the outside, the heat insulator for the walls is covered with a protective membrane. Membrane - a special film that limits the penetration of moisture from the outside, but is able to pass it out. Thus, the heat insulator material is protected from moisture. Such protection is especially necessary for wool insulation, mineral wool, glass wool.
• On the inside, the heat insulator is protected from moisture with a vapor barrier film.

On a note

When damp, building mineral wool loses its heat-saving properties.

• As for foam insulation, for them protection from moisture is the key to durability. When freezing, raw foam is destroyed, covered with cracks, and in two winter seasons it turns into crumbs.
• On both sides of the closed insulation, wall cladding is hung. This material protects the heat-insulating layer from mechanical destruction - shock, compression, as well as from wind. In addition, sheathing forms the surface of the inner and outer walls and is a decor.

The outer and inner sides work at different temperatures, so different materials are used for the manufacture of facing plates. The requirements for moisture and wind resistance are imposed on the outer skin panels. To the internal panels - environmental friendliness and decorativeness.

Finishing with DSP boards.

As external wall panels use:

• Metal profile.
• plastic siding.
• It can be a tree - clapboard or block house.
• Use OSB boards (OSB). In this case, additional protection of their surface from moisture will be required. The walls of the frame house from OSB require subsequent painting, plastering.

The correct walls of a frame house have at least 4 layers - outer and inner cladding, a heat insulator and a vapor barrier. They are arranged in a certain order, which ensures the protection of the internal space of a residential building from rain and cold at any time of the year.

Internal walls

Internal walls in a frame house should provide good sound insulation. Therefore, a soundproof layer is placed in the middle of the wall. What is the difference between heat and sound insulation materials?

Often the same insulator can limit heat loss and stop sound propagation. For example, mineral basalt wool is the basis for the manufacture of heat-insulating and sound-insulating boards. These plates are identical in structure and differ in trade characteristics. Sound absorption boards and mats have a decibel characteristic, while insulation mats provide a thermal conductivity characteristic.

The device of internal walls.

Unlike exterior walls, interior walls are often sheathed on both sides with the same material. Both sides of the wall are located inside the house, so they are subject to the same requirements - to form the basis for further interior decoration, not to create harmful fumes, to decorate the interior space. Wall panels are used as internal wall cladding:

• Drywall - common for living quarters and moisture resistant for the bathroom.
• Plywood can be used in various thicknesses.
• OSB is best used in non-residential premises.

Frame house walls

The method of laying the insulation is determined by its shape. If it is compressible mineral wool, then it is laid between the frame supports without additional fastening. Mats or slabs are slightly compressed, after which they are placed between the supports "by surprise".

Styrofoam or Styrofoam

Styrofoam or foamed plastic, polystyrene foam. The listed terms are different designations of the same material, which is airtight, blocks natural air exchange, and makes it necessary to arrange supply and exhaust ventilation.

The walls of the frame house are insulated with foam.

Despite the low environmental friendliness, polystyrene foam is very popular as a frame insulation, since it is the most budgetary and affordable insulating material.

Rigid foam boards are incompressible. Therefore, when laying the plates, they are shortened to the size of the distance between the frame supports, and then the gaps between the foam and the support are blown out with mounting foam.

Polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam or PPU - is also a completely impervious, waterproof insulating material. It differs in that it creates a seamless, even coating on which further interior finishing can be performed. The application of polyurethane foam requires the work of expensive equipment and specialists, which affects the cost of construction. Therefore, this insulation option is rarely used in budget frame construction.

Application of polyurethane foam.

If PPU spraying is used, then first the frame is sheathed with external panels, after that the distance between the frame supports is blown with PPU, and after that, internal wall decoration is performed on the finished even surface of the insulation.

Vapor barrier membrane

The frame house provides for the presence of a vapor barrier layer - a special membrane that looks like polyethylene, but differs from it in physical properties. The membrane is a porous material in which the shape of the pores allows the passage of vapor molecules in one direction and not in the other. Thus, the membrane restricts the movement of wet steam from one side only.

On a note

Membrane fabric is placed on the outside of the insulation in order to limit the ingress of moisture into the pores of the insulating material.

Wind protection

Wind protection material is a layer that is not blown by the wind. The best wind protection for the walls of a frame house is the outer wall cladding and vapor barrier membrane. Plastic siding, DSP, block house work as a panel external wind protection.

These materials also function as waterproofing agents. They protect the inner layers of the wall "pie" from getting wet during rain, snowfall. In the correct design of the wall, there must be a ventilation space under the outer skin. It has the appearance of a gap, which will ensure the free movement of air and the removal of moisture.