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Is it possible to eat green tomatoes with late blight. Spraying tomatoes from phytophthora in the greenhouse and open field: how to save the crop

Inexperienced summer residents, forgetting about the prevention of late blight on tomatoes, when they appear, they ask the question: “How to save tomatoes from late blight if they are already sick?” It is necessary to think about the prevention of the disease in a timely manner.

Experts have compiled a list of effective methods against the appearance of a harmful fungus and the treatment of infected tomatoes.

Late blight is a fungal plant disease (50 species) in open field. In translation, the term "phytophthora" sounds like "a destructive plant." The reason for the rapid spread of the fungus is the asexual way of reproduction by spores. The plant remains in the soil for ten years, surviving the winter, re-infecting cultivated vegetable products.

Favorable conditions for infection of tomatoes - high humidity.

The spread of the disease occurs at the end of summer - the period of maximum comfort for phytophthora. Late blight has acquired the status of brown rot. The defeat begins with the acquisition brown shade leaf plates and subsequent decay. Gradually, late blight gets to the fruit, killing the crop.

Wet infected tomatoes are covered with a light-colored oily transparent film. Flowers located on a vegetable crop turn yellow, lifeless. After a few days, they lose their shape, lose their ability to stay on the stem and fall off.

The spread of the disease is fast. Spots of brown and gray color invisible to summer residents in the initial period of occurrence. Phytophthora leads the plant to complete death in 2-3 days.

Attention! Infection of one plant leads to the spread of late blight around the entire perimeter of the site. It is necessary to protect neighboring plants.

The first signs of late blight on tomatoes

Signs:

  1. Infection of tomatoes in 70% of cases begins with a disease of potatoes and eggplant. When fighting late blight of potatoes, it is important to remember about the prevention of the spread of tomato disease.
  2. The initial affected area is the leaves. Leafy green plates are affected by brown spots.
  3. The leaf rots, loses its shape and hangs down. Phytophthora spreads to the stems, affecting the fruits.
  4. Tomato lesions are the final stage of late blight.

Rescue of infected crops

Summer residents are offered a choice of 3 ways to save vegetables:

  1. Chemical methods. Fight with medications invented by professional specialists.
  2. Folk ways. The fight against late blight with natural substances. The methods have been tested by ancestors who have been using natural substances for several centuries, passing down recipes from generation to generation.
  3. Other methods. Appeared recently and not related to traditional and folk methods.

Processing is for everyone vegetable crops susceptible to phytophthora disease. Treating only infected tomatoes is a big mistake for beginner gardeners.

Chemical Methods

Experts have compiled a list of chemicals that are guaranteed to save infected tomatoes:

"Hol"

  1. Pros: Used for the treatment and prevention of disease. Permanent use is available, the bushes do not get used to a drug that is guaranteed to cure the disease.
  2. Minuses: Doesn't hold well on leaves, rinses off well with water. The drug is dangerous for bees and fish. The distance should be 2 kilometers.
  3. Application: The drug is dissolved in water to the desired volume. It is dangerous to dilute the medicine in food dishes! It is necessary to choose a sunny day.
  4. Well: Applied 5 times a year. Use is not recommended 20 days before harvest. In rainy weather, it is recommended to abandon the procedure.

"Furacilin"

  1. Pros: An inexpensive drug used to get rid of fungi on vegetable crops, nail plates, skin.
  2. Minuses: When cooking, you need water that does not contain chlorine impurities.
  3. Application: 10 tablets of Furacilin are crushed to a powder consistency and poured hot water(without chlorine!). It is recommended to prepare the solution a year in advance.
  4. Well: 3 fertilizing is carried out: before the appearance of flowers, during the appearance of ovaries, 20 days before harvest.

"Fitosphorin"

  1. Pros: It is possible to combine the drug with other drugs.
  2. Minuses:
  3. Application: The proportion is 2 teaspoons per 1000 ml of liquid. It is forbidden to use metal dishes and water with a temperature of more than 35 degrees.
  4. Well:

"Trichopol"

  1. Pros: Does not harm humans and animals. Allowed the use of food after treatment with the drug.
  2. Minuses: The need to re-spray after rainy weather.
  3. Application: 20 tablets are diluted in a glass and transferred to a bucket of water. The solution is infused for 20 minutes.
  4. Well: Processing is carried out every 10 days of the spring-summer season.

"Ordan"

  1. Pros: Suitable for the fight against late blight and Alternaria. It is used for diseases of potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.
  2. Minuses: The product is dangerous for bees and soil animals.
  3. Application: The drug is diluted in proportion: 25 g per 5 liters of water and processed.
  4. Well: Used five days before harvest.

Folk methods

Dairy products

Milk bacteria prevent the spread of phytophthora, destroying the structure of the disease. Folk way available for prophylactic use and for the treatment of infected tomatoes.

Dairy products have a positive effect on the fight against late blight. The most effective products are whey and kefir.

There are 3 recipes using dairy products:

  1. Water is mixed with whey in equal proportions.
  2. Kefir is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 10 liters.
  3. Milk is diluted with water (1:10) with the addition of 20 drops of iodine.

Soda and soap

The method is suitable for emergency situations. Most summer residents have soda at home.

Soap dissolves in water to a foamy consistency. Half a tablespoon of soda is added. The solution is applied 4 times a month and constantly after precipitation.

Salt

Salt creates protective film covering the leaf plate. It does not allow foreign fungi to penetrate the leaf and fruit. The proportion is as follows: 250 grams of salt account for 10 liters of water. Salty liquid is sprayed over all surfaces of the stem, leaves and fruits. It is necessary to repeat the procedure after rain.

Salt is a prophylactic agent that prevents the penetration of phytophthora into the plant.

Acetic acid

It is the second most popular emergency remedy. Be sure to use 9% vinegar. The drug of another percentage is not valid. A bucket of water will require half a full glass of table acetic acid.

Paste for daily brushing of teeth

The composition of the paste contains many antibacterial substances that can defeat the fungal formation. 1 tube is placed in a bucket of water and mixed thoroughly. It is recommended to dissolve toothpaste in a small amount water and add the missing liters of liquid. A second procedure is necessary after precipitation.

The drug is compatible with all folk and chemical preparations.

Garlic infusions

But in vain garlic is used by people to prevent viral and colds. The product contains a huge amount of nutrients.

Garlic is crushed into small pieces. It will take one and a half glasses of crushed particles. They are placed in a bucket of water and infused overnight or 12 hours. The course is twice a month until the disease is completely eliminated.

Experienced gardeners plant garlic in a neighboring tomato garden. This good prevention phytophthora.

Water

Science has proven that phytophthora dies at a temperature of 30 degrees! The water is boiled and poured into a watering can. The beds are watered with boiling water once a week. The advantage of the method is the free approach.

The procedure is carried out carefully. The plant is easily damaged by hot water.

Ash solution with soap

Ash solution helps in the fight against late blight. The element is mixed with water in a ratio of 5 kg to 10 liters and infused for 3 days. It is recommended to constantly stir the resulting solution. After 3 days, 20 liters of water and soap are added to the solution.

Instead of soap, tobacco dust can be added. Wear protective gloves and goggles to prevent burns.

Yeast

The product is used not only for making pies. A liter of water is added to 100 g of the product and dissolved. The solution is ready for spraying the plant.

The method is used on early dates phytophthora formation.

Attention! The solution is mixed only with warm water.

hay and urea

A kilogram of hay is used for 10 liters of water. 100 g of urea is added to the solution. The solution is infused for 3 days and poured onto the plants.

Used rotted old hay. The new product will not give the desired result.

Other methods

Effective ways to save tomatoes if they are already sick have appeared quite recently, but already have fans. The use of improvised means is implied.

Iodine

The medicine has a wide range of uses in the treatment of human diseases. A plus in the fight against late blight is the possibility of using it in conjunction with folk methods. How to prepare an iodine solution: mix 50 drops of iodine with 1 liter of water.

Iodine is used to improve the survival ability of plants. Jars with the drug are hung in the rooms with vegetable crops.

Hydrogen peroxide

The hydrogen census oxidizes and kills the harmful pathology of tomatoes and potatoes. Use 2 tablespoons of medicine per liter of water in a bucket. It is necessary to carefully process the plants, not forgetting the lower parts sheet plates. The procedure is repeated in a week.

Hydrogen peroxide is a source of oxygen for plants.

Setting up barricades

Mechanical way to prevent and eliminate late blight. Several layers of newspaper and cardboard barricades are set up around the tomato beds. The buildings retain moisture, allowing the summer lover to relax from the constant watering of plants. The method is suitable only for prevention.

The paper needs to be shredded first.

Creating an artificial copper support

Phytophthora is afraid of copper. The method is very efficient. Copper wire 4 cm long is wrapped around the stem, preventing the penetration of a foreign fungus, making the plant's immunity stronger. Better solution proposed an experienced summer resident. He pierced the tree trunk with copper, completely blocking the occurrence of phytophthora.

Important! The method is applied on a healthy full-fledged plant. Weak tomatoes may die.

Potassium permanganate solution

Potassium permanganate is able to neutralize the fungal formation. The method works well in case of combining several methods proposed below.

Solution preparation method. 1 gram of potassium permanganate is added to 10 liters of water. With the help of improvised means, the solution is sprayed onto the plants. Potassium permanganate creates a dense layer that prevents the fungus from penetrating inside.

Calcium chloride

The drug helps to prevent the spread of the disease on the fetus. It only stops, but does not kill late blight. The proportion with water is 1 to 3.

The tool is sold in all pharmacies.

Copper sulfate and soap

The method has the same principle as the copper wire method. It is one of the most efficient. It has the ability to strengthen plants, making them resistant to various diseases and fungi.

Cooking method. 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate is mixed with soap and 10 liters of water and sprayed on tomatoes.

Soap is required to strengthen tomato leaves. The use of a liquid product is recommended.

Zelenka

Zelenka is a familiar childhood remedy associated with chickenpox. 20 drops of the drug are mixed with 10 liters of water and sprayed.

The tool is used for preventive and therapeutic purposes.

Boron acid

Cooking method. 20 drops of acid are mixed with 10 liters of water. Frequency - 4 times a week.

Most effective way- alternation of other methods with the boron acid method.

Prevention measures

Carrying out preventive procedures eliminates the annual fight against late blight.

To protect the plant, you need to follow the rules of experienced gardeners step by step:

  1. It is not recommended to transplant tomatoes to places where plants with late blight grew: potatoes, eggplant. Recommended neighbors - onions, turnips, beets. Return to the previous location occurs no earlier than four years.
  2. Phytophthora is afraid of sunny places.
  3. Recommended varieties are phytophthora resistant or early.
  4. Lime soil required special care. Peat and onion peel are added to it.
  5. It is important to observe the required distance between seedlings. You cannot create piles of tomatoes.
  6. Watering the plant in late summer is not advisable.
  7. Continuous loosening of the culture is recommended.
  8. During watering, only the roots are watered. Leaves and fruits must not be touched.
  9. The use of nitrogen fertilizers that promote the spread of the disease is not advised.
  10. It is necessary to constantly increase the immunity of plants.

Phytophthora resistant varieties

Buying hybrid resistant varieties is getting rid of the constant struggle with late blight. The most popular varieties are Metelitsa, Budenovka, Kostroma, Pink Dwarf, Parterre.

Last year, tomatoes in the open field had a hard time - the summer turned out to be rainy, and in a matter of hours all my plantings were affected by late blight. In twenty years of gardening, I swear, this was the first time.

Having got rid of the bushes along with the tomatoes, she complained that she had not taken the time to prevent the disease. Here, as in medicine: prevention is easier than cure.

All gardeners are once faced with a formidable late blight of plants (nightshades are more often ill with it), so there are many means of protection and combating it. The disease spreads instantly, you need to recognize it in time and take action.

The disease is promoted by spores of the fungus Phytophthora infestans, which live in plant remains and in the ground, are carried by drops, wind, and also remain to winter on garden tools.

The beginning, the impetus for the activation of fungal spores is rainy weather, high humidity, poor ventilation of plantings. Mid-August is the time when the risk of infection is especially high. Brown putrefactive spots first appear on the stem and leaves of tomatoes, then transferred to the inflorescences, then to the fruits.

The leaves turn out to be covered with a brownish oily film, then the inflorescences begin to fall off, becoming yellow, dark. Next, grayish-brown spots of rot can be observed on the fruits, the peel becomes thinner, it smells bad.

lazily - a few hours remain until the complete destruction of the plant, and threaten the death of the entire plantation.

Why late blight appears on tomatoes

Before starting a description of the methods of dealing with phytophthora, let's turn to the conditions that contribute to its appearance.

  • Rainy days and whole weeks at the end of summer;
  • Excessive watering, including on the leaves of tomatoes;
  • A striking change in weather in August-September, as well as differences in day and night temperatures;
  • Neighborhood with potato plantations: the pathogen can easily spread to tomatoes;
  • Tomato bushes are planted too close to each other, so poor ventilation, little sun gets to dry the leaves;
  • Stepchildren or leaves touch the ground;
  • The increased content of lime, which acts as a bait for fungi;
  • Lack of potassium, copper, manganese, iodine in the soil, as well as overfeeding plants with nitrogen.

If you notice the first signs of phytophthora on the stems or lower leaves, including white coating, immediately begin to act to try to save parts of the plant untouched by the disease. For this, there are many copper-based products, various pharmaceutical preparations, as well as methods accumulated by human experience.

Important! Before processing, you should collect all the tomatoes that hang on the branches, inspect and decide what to do with them. If rot is already present, they cannot be eaten and preserved.

Rinse green fruits, not touched by phytophthora, with hot water and leave to ripen, red ones should also be washed with hot water (60 degrees) and eat.

The fight against late blight with chemical and biological preparations

The best remedies for late blight pathogens are fungicidal agents designed to get rid of fungi, mold, mosses and lichens, and various rot.

Copper oxychloride

This drug is known and loved by all summer residents - Hom. It is a fungicide of contact action, does not accumulate in plants, but only kills the pathogenic microflora from the outside. The fungus will not be able to adapt to active substance Homa, since the product is easily washed off with water, without being absorbed into plant tissues.

Planting copper chloride can be treated 4-5 times per season, stopping 20 days before harvesting. Hom does not cure late blight, but eliminates the fungus.

blue vitriol

Copper sulfate is also a broad-spectrum fungicide; without it, there is nowhere in the garden and vegetable garden. Like all preparations containing copper, vitriol kills many types of fungi, including those that cause late blight. Does not accumulate in plants and soil, does not cause resistance (addiction) of microorganisms.

For better adhesion of copper sulphate to tomato stems and leaves, add a little household or liquid soap.

Bordeaux liquid

An indispensable tool for plants has the ability to resist fungi and pests.

This time-tested solution is commercially available in ready-made, but you can cook it yourself - dissolve 100 grams of copper sulfate crystals in 10 liters of water, then mix in 100-150 grams of slaked lime. Fungicide ready!

Fitosporin

Means of biological action containing special phytobacteria and growth accelerators aimed at disease prevention and treatment. It can be used in conjunction with chemicals and separately.

Several times a season, starting with the treatment of seedlings and soil before planting, phytosporin is used at intervals of 10-14 days. After treatment with phytosporin, tomatoes can be eaten the next day.

Calcium chloride

This pharmaceutical preparation is able to save the fruits taken from the infected plant. We wipe the tomatoes with a one percent composition.

Iodine

This tincture is sprayed with a tomato from phytophthora together with kefir, whey or ash solution. 20 drops of iodine are poured into 10 liters of water.

Prophylactically can be used once a week.

Hydrogen peroxide

Oxygenates plants and fights late blight. 2 tbsp dissolved in 1 liter of water. Spray the tomatoes from top to bottom.

Of the chemicals, brilliant green and boric acid, Trichopolum tablets and potassium permanganate are also used, but this rather refers to the next point. Because in themselves these are drugs that are not intended for garden needs, and their use in the garden is entirely the merit of the people's ingenuity in the search for an effective fight against fungi and bacteria.

What folk remedies are used

Summer residents use many different means for the prevention of late blight - these are food and pharmacy drugs, as well as other tricks, which are discussed below.

Yeast

100 grams of baker's yeast are dissolved in warm water (10 liters), infused and sprayed with tomatoes.

Salt

250 grams of salt are dissolved in a bucket of water and the plants are treated. Repeat every week, as well as after rain.

Soda

Add 2 tbsp to a bucket of water. l. and some soap. Processing is repeated periodically.

Kefir, whey, sour milk

Kefir is taken 1 liter and mixed with 10 liters of water, 20 drops of iodine are added there. Whey and milk can be taken in half with water.

Vinegar

100 grams of 9% vinegar is dissolved in a bucket of water and tomatoes are treated from fungi, rot.

wood ash

Mix 1.5-1.7 kilograms of ash with 10 liters of water, leave for 3 days, and then process the tomatoes. Apply three to four times per season, spraying the entire plant.

Surface mulching

The ground under the tomatoes is mulched so that moisture does not spread to the leaves and trunk, and does not provoke rotting. To do this, use newsprint and cardboard.

Copper wire

Proven method, although ambiguous. At a distance of a couple of centimeters from the ground, the tomato stalk is pierced with a copper wire (4-5 cm).

Advice! The plant should not be freshly planted, let it take root well. Another condition: the smooth surface of the wire must be cleaned with a knife.

How and when to treat plants

Chemical treatment involves the use protective equipment such as gloves, respirator. Study the packaging with the substance in advance, how to dilute it correctly, when and on what area to apply. It is important that for copper-containing preparations you can not take metal utensils.

All work is carried out in dry, calm weather. If the measures are urgent, then at any time we spray and water the tomatoes in order to somehow begin to fight late blight.

Measures to prevent Phytophthora

In addition to preventive and therapeutic treatments for plants, do not neglect the agrotechnical rules for growing tomatoes.

  • It is impossible to plant tomatoes in the same place every year (it is possible in 2-4 years);
  • Avoid neighborhood with potatoes, eggplants, and do not plant tomatoes after them;
  • Place tomato bushes at a sufficient distance from each other so that the plantings are ventilated;
  • The place should be sunny, ventilated;
  • Lime soils are quenched with peat, sprinkled with sand;
  • Water the tomatoes strictly under the root, without touching the leaves;
  • Stepchildren are removed in a timely manner, and the leaves should not lie on the ground;
  • Do not feed tomatoes with nitrogen after flowering, an excess of the element will provoke putrefactive processes;
  • If the plantings are in a greenhouse, you need to ventilate it more often, and before planting, treat the ground and the entire room from phytophthora with chemicals;
  • Mulching prevent the appearance of pathogenic microorganisms;
  • You can plant fragrant flowers together with tomatoes, such as marigolds, calendula, a good neighborhood with onions and garlic;
  • If the weather is rainy, you do not need to water the tomatoes at all.

Trying to save tomatoes from phytophthora by any means, you should not go all out and use several chemicals at the same time, you need a reasonable approach and timely prevention.

Good day, dear friend! Our family loves tomatoes very much, so they are grown always and everywhere. Mom leaves a large plot of land in the garden and plants different varieties to enjoy a variety of flavors. My wife loves cherry tomatoes and even plants them in pots on the windowsills.

This summer, my mother's harvest was a success. She looked after them all season, fertilized, but, as always, trouble crept up unnoticed. Some bushes were struck by phytophthora. It is good that at one time she already had to deal with this problem and she knew what to do.

Therefore, without wasting time, Mommy processed all the plants and after all we enjoyed a healthy harvest. In this article you will learn: late blight on tomatoes, how to deal with folk remedies, the main causes of the disease, what to use for prevention.

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to deal with folk remedies - proven methods

Late blight on tomatoes at the very beginning of the disease can be destroyed not by such radical methods as treating the garden with fungicidal preparations. Folk remedies for processing tomatoes from phytophthora may not be so effective, but they are harmless to the human body. How to save tomatoes from phytophthora folk remedies?

Phytophthora on tomatoes: how to deal with folk remedies

Perhaps the most effective way defeating this disease is garlic, so let's start the story of how to deal with late blight on tomatoes with folk remedies, with it. There are several recipes for cooking, and each deserves attention.

Their action is aimed at the same result, but perhaps some recipe will be liked more, or it is easier to prepare than any other.

  • Heed 5 garlic mixtures for spraying tomatoes
  1. 0.5 kg of minced garlic + 3 liters of water.
    2. It is necessary to infuse the solution for 5 days, putting it in a dark place. Immediately before spraying, you need to take 0.05 liters and dilute in 10 liters of water. Then add the same amount laundry soap and perform processing.
  2. When the disease is just beginning to develop, an infusion prepared by mixing 0.1 kg of minced garlic and 2000 ml of water will help.

    3. It is infused for only half an hour, after which you can apply the spray solution.

  3. For the next recipe, you need to add 150 g of chopped garlic to 10 liters of water, stir, strain and spray the bushes.
  4. A combination of garlic, pepper and mustard will also help.

    5. It is necessary to chop 0.2 kg of vegetable, add to it a tablespoon of the above two components in the form of a powder, pour water and leave for a day. Strain, add 10 liters of water. Processing is done every one and a half weeks.

  5. You can also mix one and a half cups of chopped garlic and 2 g of potassium permanganate, dilute with ten liters of water and spray every 14 days.
  • Potassium permanganate is another folk remedy for combating late blight on tomatoes

What can be folk remedies for combating late blight on tomatoes and without potassium permanganate? It is also quite popular among experienced gardeners. It is recommended to treat tomato seeds with a 1% solution of this substance before planting.

When young shoots are planted in open or protected ground, it is recommended to shed the beds with a weak solution of potassium permanganate approximately once every 7 days.

And many experts advise putting green tomatoes collected due to bad weather for half an hour in a hot solution of potassium permanganate, then wipe and spread for ripening.

  • Straw infusion

Pour a kilogram of rotten hay or straw into 10 liters of water, add a handful of urea and let it brew for 3-4 days. Strain the infusion and treat the tomatoes with it.

  • Yeast

Dissolve 80 g of yeast in a bucket of water and pour tomatoes with this solution at the first symptoms of phytophthora.

  • Copper wire

Spraying tomatoes from phytophthora can be replaced by "copper piercing". How to protect tomatoes from late blight with copper wire? The wire must be calcined on fire or cleaned with sandpaper, cut into pieces 3-4 cm long, insert such a piece into the stem of an adult tomato bush at a height of 10 cm from the soil and bend the ends of the wire down.

Never wrap the wire around the stem!

Some gardeners prefer to wrap pieces of copper wire around the roots of seedlings before planting them in the garden. The fact is that microdoses of copper, enhancing oxidative processes, stabilizing the production of chlorophyll and stimulating oxygen metabolism, strengthen the plant's immunity and make it resistant not only to late blight, but also to other infections.

  • Iodine from late blight on tomatoes

Possessing antimicrobial properties, iodine can serve as a good tool for treating phytophthora on tomatoes. There are many recipes using iodine - choose any of the following:

  1. To 9 liters of water, add 1 liter of milk, preferably low-fat, and 20 drops of iodine;
  2. To 8 liters of water, add two liters of whey, half a glass of sugar and 15 drops of iodine tincture;
  3. 10 liters of water is mixed with one liter of serum, 40 drops of iodine are added alcohol tincture and 1 tablespoon of hydrogen peroxide.
The resulting solutions carefully process all the leaves and stems of tomatoes, especially from the underside.

You can also use for preventive spraying against phytophthora solutions of fermented kefir and whey (1 liter per 10 liters of water) both in pure form and with the addition of a small amount of sugar.

Water the tomato bushes with such solutions regularly every week, starting from the moment the buds form. Attention! In the fight against late blight on tomatoes, such a microelement as boron also resists well.

To use it, you need 10 g boric acid dilute in 10 liters of hot water, cool to room temperature and spray the tomatoes. For the best effect, it is advisable to add 30 drops of iodine to the solution before processing.

Finally, a remedy that effectively fought against the already visible manifestations of phytophthora on tomatoes is the recipe for the following preparation:

  1. Eight liters of water is heated to +100°C and combined with two liters of sifted wood ash.
  2. When the temperature of the solution drops to +20°C, 10 g of boric acid and 10 ml of iodine are added to it.
  3. The mixture is infused for half a day.
  4. Then it is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and all parts of the tomato plants are carefully sprayed.
  5. Before treatment, all affected plant parts must be removed.
  • Ash solution against phytophthora on tomatoes
This treatment is carried out in three stages: as soon as the seedlings are accepted and grow, before the flowering of tomatoes and immediately before the appearance of the first ovaries.

Half a bucket of wood ash is added to 10 liters of water, insisted for three days, stirring from time to time. When the composition settles, the liquid must be drained, its volume brought to 30 liters and 30-35 g of liquid soap added to the composition.

  • Phytophthora serum on tomatoes

Processing tomatoes from phytophthora with whey from yogurt also gives good results. Dilute the serum in a ratio of one to one with water and spray the tomatoes at least every day from the first days of July.

Common folk methods wrestling:

  1. Copper wire from phytophthora on tomatoes is used only as a prophylactic.

    2. It is believed that sufficient copper content in the plant prevents the reproduction of harmful spores. To do this, take a piece of wire and cut it into pieces 3-5 cm long. All parts are carefully cleaned with sandpaper.

    After that, the lower part of the stem of each tomato is pierced with a wire, its ends are bent down, but not twisted around the stem. It is believed that in this way the plant is saturated with copper, thereby excluding the development of the disease.

  2. Yeast is a common processing agent. You will need to mix 100 g of yeast (live) with 10 liters of water. The prepared mixture is sprayed with tomatoes.
  3. You can prepare a solution of garlic and manganese.

    4. The leaves, stems and garlic itself are crushed and poured, 1 cup of boiling water is required for 100 g of gruel. A day later, the mixture is filtered and diluted in 10 liters of water, adding a little manganese.

    Each plant is treated with the resulting composition, the procedure is carried out 4 times per season.
  4. The following composition includes whey or kefir and water in equal parts. The bushes can be treated with a mixture daily, but you should start only from July.

If it was not possible to prevent the development of the disease, characteristic brown spots became noticeable on the leaves, then such folk recipes can help:

  1. Iodine from late blight on tomatoes is a proven remedy by many. It is necessary to take 10 ml of a five percent solution of iodine and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. The composition is required to spray all the tomatoes. The procedure must be repeated after 3 days.
  2. It is necessary to mix 200 ml of a 10% calcium solution with 2 liters of water, then carefully spray the affected areas of the plant.
  3. Prepare a solution of 1 kg of salt and 10 liters of water. Before processing, you will need to remove all diseased parts of the plant, and then spray the tomato bushes.

    4. The solution forms on the surface of leaves, stems and fruits thin film, which prevents further development illness.

  4. pharmacy remedy Trichopol can also help in the fight against late blight. It is required to dissolve 1 tablet in 1 liter of water and spray the bushes. The procedure is repeated every 14 days.
  5. Summer residents also use furatsilin, it can also help from phytophthora on tomatoes. 10 tablets of the drug are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The solution is used for spraying 3 times per season. The first - before flowering, the second - when the ovaries appear, the third - at the time of the ripening of the first fruits.
  • Processing of tomatoes is also carried out with fungicidal preparations
You can buy Fitosporin, Fundazim, Quadris, Fundazol, Ridomil, Previkur. Spraying with such means should be carried out in accordance with the attached instructions.
  • blue vitriol

It is enough to add about 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate and a couple of drops of iodine to one bucket of water. Tomato bushes are processed once. In general, iodine can be added to almost all plant treatment mixtures, since in small doses it can have a disinfecting effect without harming organic matter.

You should not make a large dose of iodine, as an increased concentration can burn tissue.

When the listed funds do not help fight fungal growths on tomatoes, more concentrated chemicals will be required, which can be purchased at specialized stores. Beforehand, it is better to consult with sellers as to what dosage is required for a particular variety, as well as based on current signs of late blight.

If tomato seedlings are treated in a timely manner with the indicated folk remedies, then the treatment for late blight should be successful. It is important to remember that rain can completely wash off substances, so a second procedure will be required.

When the methods of prevention in the current season have not had an effect, then in the next it is desirable to apply a different method.

When using the same remedy to combat the disease from year to year, its effectiveness is significantly reduced. In this regard, it is recommended to periodically change drugs and means.

After you have succeeded in treating seedlings from phytophthora, you need to treat the site. The earth is watered with "Trichodermin" and "Fitosporin", which should supervise the remains of fungal spores in the soil. This precaution will prevent a possible disease in the next season.

If your site is caught by a mass disease of vegetable crops, then all the bushes will definitely need to be burned, and the ground should be sprayed with a fungicide.

This method of struggle is very effective if everything is done correctly, leaving no uncultivated corners of the garden. Carefully inspect the fruits when harvesting a ripe crop. If typical signs of late blight are present on the tomatoes, then it is better to throw them away so that the entire crop does not deteriorate during storage.

Before rolling tomatoes, be sure to thoroughly wash them, and carefully inspect them again.

  • Other drugs

There are several more drugs that are actively used by the people to combat late blight on tomatoes.

  1. In a 10-liter bucket of water, dissolve 10 tablets of Trichopolum and add 15 ml of brilliant green. The resulting solution can be used to treat tomato bushes both during flowering and when the first symptoms of phytophthora appear.
  2. In 10 liters of water, mix one teaspoon of copper sulfate, boric acid, magnesia. Add potassium permanganate at the tip of a knife and a little laundry soap (can be replaced with 3 tablespoons of liquid soap).

Source: "floristics.info; krokusy.ru; fermilon.ru; agrarian-blog.ru; gryadki.com"

Chemicals for treatment and protection

Worked well for the fight against late blight blue vitriol. A 3% solution cultivates the land a few days before planting seedlings. When planting plants, a 1% solution is prepared and 1 liter is poured into each well. Trichopolum or metronidazole tablets have an antifungal effect.

20 tablets are diluted in a small amount of water and poured into a bucket of water. Landings are processed every two weeks. Chemical fungicides strong in the fight against late blight, but after processing them, the fruits should not be eaten for 25 days:

  1. "Abiga - Peak"
  2. "Profit - Gold"
    3. Dilute at the rate of 1 gram per 1 liter of water. Apply 4 times, every 14 days. Hazard class - 3. Protects the plant for 7 - 12 days.
  3. "Khom" - 40 grams are stirred in a bucket of water. Belongs to the 3rd class of danger.

For prevention, or at the initial stage of the disease, it is recommended to use biological agents: Alirin-B, Gamair, Fitosporin. They belong to the 4th hazard class, have high efficiency, do not cause addiction in pathogens of the fungus.

In addition to protective measures, these biological products are beneficial: they remove soil toxicity after treatment with chemicals, restore microflora, strengthen immunity in plants and stimulate further growth and development of bushes.

To common chemicals include:

  • Antibiotic Trichopolum
    • 10 tablets of this remedy are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the bushes are sprayed with it. The first time they are processed when the tomatoes are at the stage of ovary formation, and then the procedure is repeated 2 times a month.

    This is an antimicrobial agent. Because gardeners like to prepare a milky-iodine solution that will easily help you get rid of phytophthora. To prepare it, take 10 liters of water, a liter of milk and 20 drops of iodine.

  • Zelenka

    • 40 drops of this agent are dissolved in water and tomatoes are sprayed with it.

  • Potassium permanganate solution

    • This tool is an excellent antiseptic for seeds. They are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in this solution for 40 minutes. After that, rinse with water and dry well.

Source: "profermu.com"

Causes of phytophthora on tomatoes

Phytophthora is a very common and pernicious fungal disease that destroys not only tomatoes, but also other nightshade crops (eggplants, potatoes). Most often, the disease manifests itself in cool and damp weather, with heavy rainfall. But where does this pain come from?

Late blight is fungal disease and it spreads by spores, so the conidia of this fungus are able to survive in the soil, seeds, on the walls of a greenhouse or greenhouse, as well as garden tools.

And as soon as they favorable conditions for its active reproduction ( low temperature air and humidity), the disease will begin to develop and progress. except weather conditions there may be other causes of tomato disease:

Speaking about how phytophthora is transmitted, in this case it is worth noting that there are a lot of ways to spread it - it can be infection through seeds, soil, tubers of neighboring plants, by transferring infection from site to site with inventory and much more.

With all this, bacteria remain in the soil cover for a long time, and especially if it lacks copper salts.

Speaking about how the transmission occurs, then in nature there is a whole scheme of its transmission and its main stages:

  • So on the most affected plant, new spores are formed that infect the root, seeds, that is, the entire healthy plant and its fruits, green or already ripe.
  • Next comes their germination, when one of them in more new disputes develop.
  • The next stage of infection is their direct entry into the kidney.
  • Already through the soil and contaminated soil goes directly infecting new, healthy plants growing nearby.

The main thing is to find out how the spores of the fungus got into your area, the tomato bush, and based on this, and take measures to eliminate pathogenic microflora.

Vegetable testing

Not always such signs at the first stage of the development of the disease indicate precisely the infection with late blight. For example, blackening of fruits can be caused by rot, increased level moisture or dryness of the soil, and this is also a consequence of an excessive amount of fertilizer applied.

An infected plant must be carefully examined. With dry blossom end rot, the lesion spreads to the entire fruit, it turns black. But the pulp of the tomato should be firm and absolutely without juice. This phenomenon is observed with an excessive amount of fertilizer, after which salinization of the soil occurs.

If there are black tomatoes on the plant, and the roots have crawled out to the surface of dry soil, this is not late blight. The plant simply does not have enough moisture, so it gets it from the air.

Blackness can also be present on the fruits of tomatoes, which have a lack of boron and magnesium. Therefore, the way out of this situation will be the periodic feeding of plants with fertilizer.

Effective fight plan

Fighting late blight on tomatoes is necessary from the first days of seed life. These procedures are carried out constantly and with a certain frequency. After all, a diseased plant is almost impossible to cure, and the infection process occurs very quickly. In the early stages, the fight against late blight on tomatoes comes down to the usual prevention.

Then you can use different means for spraying plants, greenhouses. A novice gardener will grab his head from so many precautionary actions, but how to deal with phytophthora by other methods?

Only carefully planned actions in combination with biologically active drugs or folk remedies will help get rid of a dangerous fungus.

This question of how to protect tomatoes from infection does not close. Here you need to think through every step. For example:

  1. Selection of seeds and their processing;
  2. Planting and fertilizing seedlings;
  3. Hardening plants before planting;
  4. Correct hole depth and row spacing;
  5. The composition of the soil and its processing;
  6. Care in the first 2 weeks after disembarkation;
  7. Preparation of inventory and greenhouses;
  8. Temperature and humidity in the greenhouse;
  9. The amount and frequency of fertilizers against phytophthora, as well as their nature;
  10. Plants that are planted nearby;
  11. Predecessors that were planted 1-2 years before;
  12. Climate.

Source: "ogorodko.ru; vogorode.com; teplichniku.ru"

Greenhouse processing

Before planting hardened plants in a greenhouse, it is necessary to prepare the soil and build a greenhouse. The structure must be comfortable and airtight so that frost or cold air cannot enter through the cracks. But at the same time, the design should have several windows for ventilation.

Spraying tomatoes from phytophthora also includes preventive treatment of the greenhouse. If the design has been used for more than a year, before the start of the season it must be cleaned of dust, dirt and cobwebs. This must be done not only from the inside, but also from the outside.

For more scrupulous gardeners from phytophthora on tomatoes, it can be advised to spray the entire greenhouse structure with a solution of Fitosporin or Baikal EM.

The beds can be sprinkled with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust. To obtain such a tool, you need to take 2 cups of tobacco dust on a bucket of ash. The gardener must use a gauze bandage. Such simple, and sometimes extreme methods can protect the crop from tomato disease. Therefore, before processing tomatoes from phytophthora, pay attention to the greenhouse itself.

plant care

Before you plunge into the problem of processing plants, you must constantly inspect the bushes for the level of humidity. If the lower leaves are damp at the edges, this is the first sign of a possible infection. The main signal, after which the processing of tomatoes from phytophthora should follow. The gardener should not overwater the plants.

You should never plant seedlings in a greenhouse in which last year's crop suffered a late blight disease. Before processing tomatoes from phytophthora, it is necessary to completely remove upper layer(5 cm) soil. In this case, it is better to use seeds that are already 2-3 years old, since in a few years they cease to be a source of viral or fungal diseases.

It is best to choose a place for a greenhouse where nightshade crops have not grown before: peppers, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants. All last year's plants must be collected and burned.

In order not to think later on how to escape from phytophthora on tomatoes, the soil for the winter must be dug up well. This will destroy the spores of the fungus. Seedlings can be planted only after hardening: a frail plant is a weak link that can become a target for fungus.

Moreover, seedlings should not be planted very densely. Always follow the planting patterns that are listed on the seed packets. Before lowering the plant into the hole, the lower and old leaves are removed from it up to 2-3 brushes. This will give more strength to the tomato, because it will not need to provide moisture and useful substances extra sheet.

Only the root is watered, not the leaves or the stem, this can provoke tomato diseases. Plant care consists in timely watering and airing the greenhouse. So, adult tomatoes are watered rarely, but plentifully.

We must not forget about mulching the soil, but this procedure is carried out only with adults and mature plants. Processing tomatoes from phytophthora is right technology fertilizing with fertilizers (phosphorus, potassium, copper sulfate). This is done in cloudy, non-rainy weather.

Spraying plants

To defeat late blight of tomatoes, treatment must be carried out constantly, changing it from year to year. It is necessary to spray tomatoes from phytophthora at the stage of planting in the soil. Use purchased solutions for this or prepare according to folk recipes.

  • The first enemy of fungal spores is garlic.

    • Garlic heads and shoots are used. Crushed heads and shoots (1.5 tbsp) are taken into a bucket (10 l) of water. The mixture is infused for 24 hours, filtered. Then 2 g of potassium permanganate is added there.

    From phytophthora on tomatoes, the plant is sprayed with garlic solution when it has formed an ovary, and the next time it is done after 10 days. It is better to carry out such a procedure 1 time in 2 weeks.

  • The question of how to spray the tomatoes will help close ordinary salt. You need a glass of table salt per 10 liters of water.

    • This solution creates a protective film on the leaves that blocks the path of spores to the mouths of the plant. You need to spray healthy bushes, because this is a prevention, not a cure for the disease.

  • Effectively process tomatoes from late blight with ordinary ash.

    • Half a bucket of ash is diluted in 10 liters of water. This solution is insisted for 3 days, not forgetting to stir from time to time. Then the mixture is diluted with another 20 liters of water and 35 g of laundry soap are added.

    Before treating tomatoes from phytophthora, you need to wait until the plant takes root. Then spraying is carried out just before flowering and after the formation of the ovary.
  • The next recipe is somewhat extreme. It is necessary to pour 1 kg of rotted hay into 10 liters of water, add 100 g of urea. The solution should be infused for 4 days. After that, the liquid must be filtered.

Purchased solutions

Easier to buy finished preparations and dilute them according to the instructions. For example, fungicides are recognized as the most effective. They are used 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings in a greenhouse and 2 weeks after that.
Many gardeners use old proven methods to deal with this problem.

When the root system dries up, a solution of Furacilin is prepared, which is sprayed with seedlings. It is necessary to dilute 2 tablets in 0.5 liters of water. Furacilin effectively copes with the fungus, like Trichopolum. Metronidazole is a synthetic antibacterial agent, which, according to gardeners, actively copes with plant disease.

Its second name is Trichopolum. The plant is sprayed with a solution of the product every 2 weeks. For preparation, it is necessary to dilute Trichopolum (1 tablet) in 1 liter of water.

This antifungal agent has a very bitter taste, but is suitable for both humans and plants. For an increased dose, Trichopol is used (20 tablets) per 10 liters of water. All of these drugs are cheap and readily available.

How to cultivate the land after the disease

In the spring, before planting, be sure to cultivate the land from phytophthora. To do this, take 3% copper sulphate and water the ground with it. After that, the soil should be well loosened. To do this, use a special device that will help mix the top cover with a thickness of 25 cm.

In this, one of the best helpers will be Tornado. He has unusual shape and very efficient and easy to use.

And the final stage is watering the soil with phytosporin. For this, 1 tbsp. means are dissolved in 10 l of water. This dose is calculated for 1 sq.m. Be sure to remember that substances that contain copper can get into food, so they should be used only in early spring.

Varieties resistant to infection

Resistant varieties before late blight include: Gift of a brother, De-Barao, Vilina, Lyana, Roton.
As you can see, phytophthora is easy to deal with. You just need to choose the tool you like, and get to work. However, you should also adhere to the dosage, because exceeding the norm will harm the tomatoes themselves.

Summer residents who have been growing tomatoes in their backyard for several years know that the most common harmful disease for these plants is late blight. It is truly ubiquitous and affects not only tomatoes on the vine, but can appear even after the crop has been harvested and prepared for storage. What to do if the fruits are struck by Phytophthora of tomatoes, how to protect plucked tomato fruits from late blight?

There are many ways, most of which, unfortunately, are not very effective. Therefore, it is not enough to know and be able to protect the plants themselves, you still need to master the methods of conservation already harvested crop.

First, the iron rule of dealing with any sores is to try to avoid their appearance. Today, one can often hear statements that there are varieties of tomatoes that are one hundred percent resistant to phytophthora infection. However, this is nothing more than a myth and the use of supposedly anti-late blight varieties will never give you a full guarantee of the preservation of grown tomatoes. Although, of course, the use of early ripening varieties helps to significantly reduce the percentage of fruit damage.

This is due to the fact that late blight tomato does not have time to hit them, because the time the plants began to become late blight - the second half growing season. Therefore, tomatoes are most vulnerable to this disease during mass fruiting. regular varieties.

Also, some argue that tomatoes that are grown in the open field are affected much more often and more seriously than plants in greenhouses and greenhouses. It must be said right away that this is not the case.

Ideal Conditions in order for the phytophthora of tomatoes to develop at an accelerated pace, it is dampness and cold. Therefore, tomatoes planted indoors begin to hurt in the first place. The reason is simple - sudden temperature changes day and night, which leads to an increase in soil and air humidity. Use in the construction of greenhouses helps to avoid such consequences. modern materials in particular polycarbonate. Temperature differences in such greenhouses are relatively small and the conditions for organizing ventilation are good.

Infection of tomatoes with late blight begins with the leaves and only then passes to the fruits, so crop damage can be prevented by taking the necessary preventive measures in time. To do this, you need to regularly inspect the bushes. If they have a lot of green leaves, but at the same time the lower ones have already begun to turn yellow, then you need to subject the bush to a special procedure - cut off all the leaves up to the first brush. If this is not done, then the withered yellow foliage will soon become an excellent refuge for late blight spores.

If everyone Taken measures prevention turned out to be insufficient and, having harvested, you still found signs of damage on the fruits, then do not rush to get rid of such tomatoes, as there is a way to help preserve them for quite a long period.

To store such fruits, you will need wide and low boxes in which a sufficient number of tomatoes can be placed.

Pre-tomatoes are carefully sorted by size, as well as the degree of maturity: green, brown, red. it is better to store them separately from each other, just as separate boxes should be allocated for fruits with defects. Be sure to cut off the stems.

We cover the bottom of the boxes with a thick layer of paper - it will absorb from the tomatoes excess moisture. We spread the fruits of tomatoes on it in one layer, each of which is subjected to preliminary disinfection. To do this, wipe them with a soft cloth moistened with vodka. Especially carefully you need to wipe the place of attachment of the torn off stem. This will stop the further spread of late blight.


Another layer of paper is laid on top of the layer of tomatoes, and then tomatoes again. Thus, two or three layers of tomatoes are formed in one box. Even if the dimensions of the box allow you to place another layer in it, you should not do this, as this will make it difficult for air to reach the lowest layer, which will violate the normal conditions for its preservation.

You need to store boxes with tomatoes in a dark and cool place, while regularly inspecting the fruits and replacing damp paper with dry one.

It is hard to imagine a summer salad without delicious and beautiful tomatoes. They are the main crop grown by gardeners on their household plots. The very process of caring for tomato bushes, in the garden and in greenhouses, is not very complicated. A significant problem is the question of how to keep tomatoes from phytophthora? This common disease causes irreparable damage to tomato bushes, and sometimes completely destroys them.

What is phytophthora tomato

This disease is called rot, which destroys first the leaves, and then the fruits of the tomato. The disease affects vegetables belonging to the nightshade family: primarily potatoes and tomatoes, as well as eggplant and peppers.

The cause of damage to tomato bushes are fungal spores. Its peculiarity is that it lives almost everywhere and all year round. That is, spores live on rotted tomato stems, in the ground, on tools, on the walls of greenhouses, on other surfaces - in a word, everywhere.

Signs of phytophthora on tomatoes appear as a white coating on inside leaves, where it is hard to find. The plant becomes infected with spores so quickly that after three days the stems of tomatoes are covered with dark spots, and the crop can be considered lost.

Conditions for the development of phytophthora

The fungus that causes the disease does not tolerate direct sunlight. If the weather is dry, then the tomatoes are safe - the fungus is not active. In rainy weather, spores wake up and multiply at lightning speed.

Harmful for tomato excessive watering. This creates conditions for the reproduction of spores of the fungus. The beds must be allowed to dry out, otherwise the wet earth and wet leaves will become a convenient place for spores to live. Tomato bushes are best watered in the morning using the "under the root" method. It is then easier to deal with late blight on tomatoes, since moisture is absorbed into the soil faster.

Important! A particularly dangerous period for tomatoes is the end of August. Tomatoes are threatened by late blight, as the nights become cool and dampness appears in the air.

Growing tomatoes in greenhouses is easy to comply with the required temperature regime. This issue has its own nuances. It is necessary to ventilate the room frequently to avoid condensation on the walls.

Common reasons why phytophthora appears on tomatoes are also:

  • excessive saturation of the soil with nitrogen fertilizers;
  • the absence, in the proper amount, of the necessary microelements in the earth (manganese, potassium, copper, iodine and others);
  • incorrect planting pattern of tomato bushes (planted too densely).

The fungus overwinters safely in the ground. In the spring, with the digging of the beds, its spores wake up and begin to multiply on tomatoes.

Preventive measures

The fight against late blight on tomatoes starts in the fall, when the last fruits are harvested and the tops are pulled out. It should be removed from the beds and preferably burned so that the spores do not have time to infect the plants next season.

Other measures include:

  • balancing lime in the soil using sand;
  • tillage when planting tomatoes disinfectant solution potassium permanganate;
  • full mulching of the beds reserved for planting tomatoes;
  • spraying the earth and bushes with chemicals ("Fitosporin" or "Trichodermin") long before the onset of the disease.

Phytophthora on tomatoes begins to develop on the lower leaves, in places where moisture accumulates. When signs of disease (darkening) appear, the leaves should be removed immediately.

Cut off dry yellowed leaves and stepchildren of tomatoes throughout the season. When the fruits begin to form, the leaves to the first brush are completely removed. For bushes, ventilation is very important.

One of the methods of combating late blight of tomatoes is sowing protective plants along the edges of the beds: peas, corn and curly beans.

When cold night dew appears, the tomatoes are covered with a film so that the bushes are ventilated.

Attention! In the spring, late blight first affects potatoes. Therefore, the proximity of tomatoes to this crop in the beds should be excluded.

An effective tool for combating late blight on tomatoes is the hardening of tomato seedlings with fertilizer and top dressing. Use an infusion of ash, which is watered over the bushes during their ripening. From the second half of summer, you should stop feeding tomatoes with fertilizers containing nitrogen, for example, mullein. They weaken and negatively affect the resistance of bushes to diseases.

For tomatoes grown in greenhouses, the prevention of late blight damage has its own characteristics. The first stage of work is the disinfection of all internal surfaces greenhouses. Before planting tomato seedlings, sanitary cleaning greenhouses: wash away the cobwebs, dirt from the walls, remove and burn all the remnants of last year's crop.

There are many tips on how to save tomatoes from late blight in a greenhouse. For example:


The tomato bushes themselves are processed, as well as on open beds: some time after planting, before flowering and with the appearance of the first ovaries on the hands.

If preventive measures are taken on time, the fight against late blight on tomatoes will be successful.

Treatment of tomatoes from phytophthora

With the appearance of obvious signs of phytophthora, tomatoes must be urgently treated by all available means. If you miss the moment, the entire tomato crop can die in almost two days.

First, all affected fruits, leaves, and sometimes entire bushes are cut off and removed from the beds. Tomatoes that can no longer be saved are removed along with the roots and burned.

The remaining plants are then processed different ways to prevent the spread of fungal spores. Methods for combating late blight on tomatoes include spraying with chemicals and infusions prepared independently. Effective purchase means are: Ridomil Gold, Hom, Quadris and Bordeaux Liquid. Their action on the spores of the fungus is very fast, but since they are chemical preparations, tomato fruits should be used carefully after processing.

Tomatoes are also sprayed with biological agents: "Fitosporin", "Guapsin", "Trichophyt". Their difference is that they consist of harmless microorganisms that, when dissolved in water, destroy late blight spores. Immediately after processing, you can safely eat vegetables by simply washing them.

Advice! Garlic-onion infusion is considered a good folk remedy for the destruction of late blight.

If phytophthora appeared on tomatoes, the treatment of bushes can be carried out, prepared at home, with infusions:


There is a simple answer to the common question of how to get rid of phytophthora on tomatoes - adhere to the rules of planting and engage in disease prevention in a timely manner.

Treatment of late blight in the greenhouse

Before getting rid of phytophthora on tomatoes grown in greenhouse conditions, it is necessary to study some features of this process.

Since the tomato crop in the greenhouse is constantly ripening, it is not recommended to use chemicals. In this case, folk methods of combating tomato late blight are useful, which include spraying with infusions of onions, garlic, milk and iodine solutions.

Remove all damaged leaves and spray the whole tomato bushes. The procedure is repeated after three days.

Folk methods of dealing with late blight

If traces of late blight on tomatoes are detected in a timely manner, you can fight the disease with folk remedies. In this case, you do not have to resort to treating plants with fungicides.

Important! Treating tomatoes from phytophthora with self-prepared infusions is a laborious process, not always effective, but completely harmless to people.

TO folk remedies include:


Conclusion

In the care of tomatoes, it is better to prevent the occurrence of phytophthora on tomatoes. To do this, it is necessary to carry out agricultural practices in a timely manner, such as observing crop rotation, proper watering plants, thinning and airing bushes, fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium. If you follow these recommendations, you will get a plentiful and high-quality harvest from healthy tomato bushes.

When almost the entire tomato crop is affected by late blight, you can try to save part of it. To do this, you need to warm the fruits in hot water(approximately 60 ° C). Then the tomatoes are dried and placed in a dark place for ripening.

After heating, the spores of the fungus are destroyed, and the tomatoes are safe to eat. Blackened fruits heavily affected by phytophthora have an unattractive appearance. And preserved unripe tomatoes from diseased bushes can be used to prepare winter preparations.

For more information on how to deal with late blight on tomatoes, see the video:

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