Do-it-yourself blind area of ​​concrete around the house. Blind area around the house - the correct device technology, parameters and calculations How to make a blind area in the country with your own hands

The device of the blind area around the building is done immediately, as soon as the work was completed to complete the finishing of the outer walls, but before the finishing of the basement was started. This is due to the fact that it is necessary to cover the expansion joint between the track covering and the wall of the building so that water cannot get there due to the protruding surface of the base.

As for the screw, deep columnar or pile types of foundation, in this case there is not even a need to make a blind area, but it is done for the most part so that it serves as a footpath or as a decor for arranging the yard.

Design features of the protective coating

Such a coating must be created around the entire perimeter of the building, since it is necessary to protect the foundation from all its sides. As for the norms and requirements that apply to it, they are all described in SNiP 2.02.01-83, which says that regardless of whether the blind area around the house is done by hand or with the involvement of specialists, its width on normal soil is not should be less than 60 cm, and on soils that tend to sink - from 100 cm.

In any case, the width of the coating should not protrude from the cut of the roof by at least 20 cm. The maximum width is not established by the regulations.
The hard coating must be laid only on a dense base, which has a thickness of at least 150 mm. It is very important to pay attention to the fact that the slope of the blind area from the building should not be less than 0.03%, taking into account the excess of the lower edge above the planning mark of no more than 50 mm. As for storm water, they must be discharged into special trays or stormwater drains (storm sewers).

A good insulated blind area, which should fully fulfill all its functions, consists of 3 layers:

1. Waterproof (top).
2. Underlying (sand with crushed stone or gravel).
3. Warming (polystyrene foam).

Sometimes experts use another layer, which is used as geotextiles, the main task of which is to provide reliable waterproofing from groundwater. Groundwater can bring problems every spring, so the use of such a layer is quite relevant. Among other things, it will protect against the germination of weeds.

Materials for the top layer

Before you make a blind area around the house, you need to decide on the materials that will be best suited for these purposes. There are a large number of materials that differ in their capabilities.

• Among the most commonly used, economical and simple materials, clay is common. It is able to create a sufficient hydrobarrier. Most often it is used in rural areas, but with regard to modern buildings, the use of clay has long been abandoned, as more efficient technologies have replaced it.
• A more modern and common option is a blind area made of concrete pavement. Without investing a lot of money, such a blind area can be done very quickly, with your own hands. Concrete has a high service life and strength. Among other things, to improve its appearance, you can cover it with paving slabs or other coatings.
• The blind area can be finished with paving slabs, which are laid on a mortar or cement-sand mixture. Often it is used to create a single decorative style of the courtyard. The tile is quite durable and will not cause any problems when laying.
• You can also use paving stones, which are also suitable for these purposes, if you lay it on a sand cushion, after tamping it. It has a pleasing appearance to the eye, but it stands several times higher than paving slabs and has some difficulties during installation. When using this material, it is imperative to seal the seams in order to completely seal the top layer.
• In order to enjoy the blind area for many years and not think about repairs, it is recommended to use natural stone. But it is worth noting that such material can only be available to fairly wealthy people.
• As for asphalt, it is very rarely used due to the fact that it emits an unpleasant smell in the summer heat and does not have a high level of strength if it is made by hand. And buying from the factory will cost much more than a concrete blind area around the house.

Along the entire perimeter of the blind area, it is necessary to lay trays for draining water. Such trays are made of asbestos cement or ceramics. Last but not least is a well-made gutter. For some works, it is recommended to invite specialists if there is not enough theoretical or practical knowledge.

How to DIY

To start work on the creation of a concrete version of the protective coating, it is initially necessary to prepare a certain list of materials and tools, which includes:

geotextiles, which in principle can be replaced with clay;

• Portland cement 500 or Portland cement 400;
• reinforcing mesh with a cell diameter of 10 by 10 cm;
• washed or river sand;
• processed board or bitumen to process it;
• crushed stone fraction no more than 4 cm or gravel;
• polystyrene boards.

Once all the material has been prepared, you need to take care of the necessary tool for the job:

• hammer;
• concrete mixer;
• hacksaw;
• rammer or, if possible, a vibrating plate;
• mason's trowel;
• shovels: shovel and bayonet;
• rule for plaster;
• capacity for concrete;
• level.

To properly make a blind area with your own hands, step-by-step instructions will help you avoid mistakes and unnecessary costs. The whole process begins with the fact that you need to carefully markup. Marking should be done around the entire perimeter of the building. As soon as this stage is over, you can remove 30 cm of soil and tamp the bottom.

The next step is to spread geotextiles on the rammed bottom or, if clay is used, then it must be tightly tamped to about 6 cm thick. On top of this, a mound of sand 5 cm thick should be made, and this layer must also be tightly tamped. Sand plays the role of a protective layer so that crushed stone does not damage the waterproofing layer.

Now is the time to put together formwork from the boards along the edge of the trench. Some use sheet material for these purposes in the absence of boards. When preparing the formwork, it is imperative to make its height 5 cm higher than the expected level. Now is the time to start backfilling a layer of crushed stone with gravel, which must be compacted to a thickness of 8 cm and sprinkled with sand on top. A lot of sand is not required, it is necessary so that during the pouring of the concrete mixture it does not penetrate into the voids between the rubble.

Before making a blind area, it is necessary to provide for expansion joints 1-2 cm wide. This is necessary because in hot weather the concrete layer can expand, and at very low temperatures it can break. This seam will prevent such a situation. Such a seam is made using a waterproofing material 1-2 cm thick or roofing felt.

Among other things, approximately every 100-200 cm at all corners of the house across the blind area, it is necessary to make pieces of boards up to 3 cm thick and install them. This is necessary to compensate for possible expansions.

Naturally, before installing such cross rails, they must be carefully treated with a bitumen composition so that they do not rot. It is necessary to install such rails so that their upper edge is flush with the concrete poured in the future.

concrete layer

To maximize the strength of concrete, it must be additionally reinforced with a metal mesh. The most optimal cell size will be 100 × 100 mm. Some craftsmen use wire with a diameter of up to 8 mm for these purposes. In fact, it can also be used, but only in this case it is necessary to bind all the individual elements together.

Once all the preparatory work has been completed, you can begin to prepare the concrete mixture and proceed with its pouring. You can purchase ready-made concrete of the M200-250 grade, but you should understand that this will significantly increase the overall estimate.

Before pouring the blind area around the house with your own hands, you can prepare concrete in the ratio:

• gravel - 4 parts;
• sand - 2.5 parts;
• cement - 1 part.

Water is best added to the concrete mixer as a last resort in small portions and kneaded until a homogeneous mass of medium density.

Filling the blind area is as follows. The process must be approached as responsibly as possible. The mixture is laid on top of the reinforcing mesh so that the slope of the blind area to the building is at least 3%, and the mesh should be slightly above ground level. Thus, we obtain a formula in which an increase in the level of 3 cm should be for every meter of width.

To remove air bubbles from the concrete solution, it is necessary to use the so-called bayonet. In order to level the surface as much as possible, it is necessary with the help of a construction trowel and a plastering rule to carefully compare the surface with a constant control of the slope angle, using a level.

To make the surface even more durable, you can use a special ironing technology. To do this, it is necessary to sprinkle an even layer of dry cement through a sieve onto the surface of the wet mortar, which has not yet had time to set. If you do this without a sieve, then you have to use a spatula and rub it gently.

If the blind area is done in dry and hot weather, then the following steps must be performed. So that the concrete does not dry out, namely, it seizes, it is necessary to cover it with a wet cloth and water it with water after certain periods. The first 3-4 days you can not stand on it. Only after this time will his top grab, and it will be possible to step on the blind area without fear of damage.

paving slabs

Before you properly make a blind area around the house from paving slabs, you must first make another base for it. This is due to the fact that tiles do not have the same level of strength as concrete.

The base must be very solid. The first layer of clay must be increased, after which a mixture of sand and cement will be laid, on top of which the tiles are laid.

It should be noted right away that in the case of paving slabs, the trench should have a depth of 45 cm. Only in this case it will be possible to obtain a high level of stability. As a bottom layer, clay must be compacted so that its thickness reaches 30 cm. This will provide normal protection in the spring in case of a rise in the groundwater level. On top of this layer, a border is installed along the edge of the trench, which should not be higher than the level of laying tiles along the edge of the blind area.

Gravel or crushed stone is used as the second layer, which also needs to be well compacted to a level of 10-15 cm thick. This layer should be level with the ground. It is necessary to lay geotextile on top of it so that not a single plant can grow through it. Now you can start pouring a mixture of sand and cement, and then start laying the tile itself.

It is very important to follow the technology exactly.

paving stones

What is pavement pavement? This is one of the best materials for these purposes. It looks great and is thicker than the previous material and better resistant to external influences. It is noteworthy that due to its properties, paving stones can be laid directly on the sand. The trench can have a depth of 15 cm. It is enough just to lay the geotextile, then put a curb and compact the sand so that it does not reach the end of the trench a little. Now it is enough just to lay the material.

Attention! Despite the ease of installation and good appearance, it is necessary to remember the high cost of paving stones.

After laying, it is necessary to seal the masonry with cement mortar, which must be laid in the seams between the stones. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the curb is not located above the upper level of the coating.

soft option

To learn how to properly make a soft blind area around the house, you first need to understand the term itself. This means crushed stone, pebbles, cobblestones, gravel and other materials, under which there is a layer of sand (sometimes clay is used), which are covered with plastic wrap.

Among all the existing modern options, this is the most economical type of coating, but it should also take into account the short operational period, which does not exceed 5 years. As soon as this period has passed, it will be necessary to repeat the procedure for laying a soft or any other blind area again.

It is worth paying attention to the slope of clay and polyethylene. This moment is important due to the fact that water is not drained by the top coating, but directly by the waterproofing layer.

Warming scheme

It is very important to learn how to properly make a blind area around the house, to think about its insulation. This is especially true for regions with traditionally low temperatures and for almost the entire territory of Russia in winter. Thanks to the insulation, it will be possible not only to keep the foundation intact, but also to keep the heat in the house.

For insulation, it is necessary to take high-quality material that does not rot, has a sufficient level of density, hydrophobic and durable. Under these parameters, polystyrene foam or polystyrene is best suited.

Insulation work must be carried out in 3 steps, which must be done in the course of creating a blind area:

• On clay or a thin sand cushion, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing or roofing material in such a way that part of the roll extends to the side walls.
• The second step is to insulate the basement wall. To do this, it is necessary to fix thermal insulation on it. When fixing the sheets, it is necessary to connect them as tightly as possible with grooves, and when this is not possible, then it is necessary to seal them using mounting foam.
• As for the horizontal layer, it must be laid directly on the lowest layer. To save money in this case without losing quality, you can use a layer of foam, and fix polystyrene foam on top of it. When laying, it is necessary to control that the seams between the layers do not coincide vertically.

On the Internet, you can find tips that with this type of insulation, you can use expanded clay instead of crushed stone, but this can even do more harm. The problem is that empty cavities remain in bulk expanded clay, where moisture will begin to appear over time, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties.

Operation and repair of the blind area

Now you know why you need a blind area around the house, why it is very important to properly care for and, if necessary, repair it. Over time, chips or cracks may appear on the surface of the concrete. Often this situation occurs due to subsidence of the soil, with the wrong selection of expansion joints or the use of poor quality materials.

To repair such cracks, it is necessary to use sand, asbestos and bituminous primer, which are mixed into a homogeneous mixture, but before that it is necessary to slightly enlarge the crack and clean it of dust using water pressure. After it dries, it is necessary to pour the mixture inside.

If the damage is too large, then it is necessary to increase them even more to the extent that they can be filled with a new portion of concrete. If necessary, damage can even be additionally reinforced with a rod or wire. After the place dries, it must be treated with a primer.

No building can do without a solid foundation to hold its weight and ensure the integrity of the entire structure, but it also needs additional protection. If necessary, each person can make a concrete pavement around the house with their own hands, without using the services of professional builders. This process is not very complicated, but it requires careful fulfillment of a number of requirements.

Requirements for the blind area, arrangement rules

This design serves as additional protection for the base of the building, preventing the destructive influence of groundwater and the environment. In addition to protection, it also performs an aesthetic function - a building with a blind area acquires a complete appearance. Before concreting the blind area with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of requirements:

To successfully create a blind area, you should draw up a drawing. You can make it yourself, focusing on standard projects, or turn to specialists. If necessary, it can be limited with . Being a decorative element, it also increases the integrity of the structure and protects against penetration of the roots of trees or shrubs.

Borders are mandatory if you create a blind area around the house from screenings or crushed stone, and if poplar, plane tree, raspberry and blackberry grow nearby.

Do-it-yourself materials for creating a concrete blind area around the house

Before starting work, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and a diagram. Strengthening the foundation should be consistent, but the whole process should take a minimum of time. In most cases, when drawing up a project, you can use typical concrete blind areas, making adjustments to the scheme in accordance with the characteristics of your region. You will need the following materials:

1. Concrete. The resulting mixture must comply with the characteristics of the class from B3.5 to B8. When creating it, cement of the M 400 brand will be the best.
2. Sand. As a pillow, you can use river or quarry sand. The material used when mixing the mixture must be soft, the presence of large impurities is not allowed.
3. Crushed stone or gravel. Fraction of crushed stone for blind area at home - 10-20. It is used as a filler for a concrete mixture, or as a base material.
4. Clay or geotextile. This material is used when arranging a concrete blind area with your own hands for additional protection against moisture, which is important for regions with high humidity.

It is determined by the brand of cement used and its specific gravity as a percentage of the elements of the solution. A good solution would be the material M400 Portland cement. Used cement must be fresh. If the powder forms lumps when squeezed in the hand, it will soon become unusable. The grade of selected cement depends on the planned thickness of the blind area made of concrete. Recommended proportions for mixing 1 m 3 solution:

• water - 190 l;
• filler (screening or crushed stone) - 0.8 m 3;
• sand - 0.5 m 3
• plasticizers (liquid glass and the like) - 2.4 l;
• cement - 320 kg.

When calculating the size of the blind area around the house, you should prepare the required amount of building materials in advance. It is also important to follow the order of feeding materials, which is necessary to ensure the desired consistency. Compliance with the technology will achieve the desired result and create a reliable design. When all the requirements are met, you can effectively equip the concrete pavement around the house with your own hands.

The amount of water supplied is of great importance. Excess will reduce the strength of the resulting concrete. Lack of water will not allow it to harden properly.

How to make a blind area for the foundation with your own hands - step by step instructions

The required amount of cement is poured into a concrete mixer or other mixing container, and then it is filled with water. When mixing, a "cement milk" is formed, into which other components are fed. Next, sand is added in small portions, while the mixture should be constantly mixed. Next, the filler is poured (crushed stone or screenings). If you know in advance which crushed stone is better for the blind area, and you have selected the material of the correct fraction, mixing will not be difficult.

To ensure more efficient mixing, wait 5 minutes after adding each component.

Once the materials are prepared, you can get to work. The blind area around the house includes the following steps:

Also, before pouring, an expansion joint is installed between the blind area and the plinth using boards or plywood sheets - this measure will protect the concrete from destruction when the temperature changes.

Installation of blind area from crushed stone

A more economical option would be to use crushed stone as the main fill material. The same requirements are imposed on its arrangement as on the blind area made of concrete, however, reinforcement and the creation of an expansion joint are not required here. An additional layer of waterproofing (geotextile) is installed between the crushed stone and the sand "cushion". This will prevent the crushed stone and sand from mixing, and will prevent plants from growing from seeds that may have been left in the "cushion".

You can make a blind area from rubble with your own hands without much effort. Large fraction material can be used to fill the bottom of the trench. From above, to give a decorative effect, fine gravel is used. Such a blind area also successfully protects the foundation from the destructive effects of groundwater and the environment. With the right approach, you can give it a neat and attractive appearance.

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area from A to Z - video

In order to prevent the erosion of the soil around the house by rain and melt water, as well as to divert precipitation from the foundation, a blind area is made around the house. These works must be carried out before the final finishing of the basement. More specifically, decide for yourself. But it is undesirable to delay: leaving a house or a bath without a blind area for the winter, you can have several cracks in the foundation in the spring.

The blind area around the house is a simple structure. However, it greatly extends the life of buildings. Water during the autumn bad weather seeps to the foundation. In frosts, it freezes, increasing in volume, which creates excess pressure. As a result of this load, cracks appear in the foundation, into which water also penetrates. Freezing, it makes them even wider. For some time without a blind area - and the base requires serious expensive repairs. Sometimes the damage is so severe that it cannot be repaired.

But these are not all the functions that a protective coating around the house can perform. In some cases, it is used as a track. Sometimes, by laying insulation and a layer of waterproofing under the blind area, it is possible to improve the performance of the building and correct some of the shortcomings made during construction in heat and. In addition, from the point of view of decor, it serves as a logical conclusion in the design of the house.

What is the blind area made of

The cheapest option is from concrete mortar. But it takes more time to build such a design. Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement is required. All the time until the solution gains strength, you can’t walk on it, and this is at least four to five days.

Other types of protective belt covering around the house are paving slabs, paving stones, bricks, natural stone, porcelain stoneware, etc. There are a lot of options today. The main thing is that they have the following properties:

• did not pass water;
• did not crack when freezing / freezing;
• had high resistance to abrasion;
• have aesthetic appeal;
• had a long service life.

There is another material for the blind area, but it is rarely used in private housing construction - asphalt is laid around the house. As for the attractiveness (as in the case of concrete), the question is moot, and the rest of the characteristics are simply excellent.

But protective coating is not everything. More materials will be needed. What exactly - depends on the option you choose to implement. We can say for sure that sand and gravel will be required. You may need waterproofing and slab insulation.

Dimensions

Since the main task of the blind area is to drain melt and rainwater, its width should be at least 20 cm more than the roof overhang. But experts do not recommend doing it less than 60 cm - moisture can seep to the foundation.

The width of the protective belt also depends on the type of soil. If these are normal soils that drain water well, then 60 cm is enough. If the house stands on loam, other heaving or unstable soils, the width should be up to 1 meter.

The main parameters of the blind area for the normal drainage of water from the foundation

But the blind area should also deepen. Its depth depends on the type of soil, on the functions that it will perform and on the thickness of the top finishing layer.

If the house stands on normal, non-fluffy soils (not clay or clay-containing soils), and they won’t walk on the surface, it’s enough to make a bed of sand 10 cm thick. Tiles, stone, etc. can be laid on top. This means that the depth of the trench will be about 10-20 cm - it already depends on the thickness of the finishing material. Only for the coating, which is made up of fragments, a border is needed. So you dig in edge stones around the perimeter, strengthen them, only then pour sand on the bottom of the trench.

If the formwork is to be used as a walkway, a heavier weight-distributing underlay is required. At the bottom of the ditch, first, crushed stone of a medium-sized fraction of about 15-20 cm is laid, and sand is already on it, and only then a finishing coating.

What else is required is compliance with slopes: the decline comes from home. So moisture will drain into the drainage system or the soil located around. The amount of slope depends on the type of protective coating used. For concrete and asphalt, the slope is 3-5% (for 1 meter, the height difference is 3-5 cm). When laying stone, tiles, porcelain stoneware, the slope is 5-10%.

Work order

After the dimensions are chosen, they proceed to the actual device of the blind area. In the general case, this occurs in several successive stages.

Marking and soil removal

The selected width is set aside along the perimeter of the building. Here it must be said that in those places where they will walk, it can be made wider.

Mark out, usually by driving in pegs. Stretching a twine or cord between the pegs, outline the scope of work. Throughout this area, it will be necessary to remove the sod and part of the soil. At the same time, the roots of the plants are removed. Often treated with chemicals that prevent plant germination. If this is not done, germinating, they will destroy the coating.

Expansion joint device

It is very important to remember when performing that the blind area and the foundation should not be connected. To do this, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint around the perimeter of the foundation, about 2 cm wide. In practice, these are either foam plastic strips 2 cm thick, or a folded roofing material in two layers attached to the foundation.

An expansion joint is necessary so that when the soil moves under the blind area, it does not press on the foundation. If this is not done, instead of preventing destruction, it will create pressure, which will sooner or later lead to cracks in the walls.

Backfill and finish coat

If you follow the "folk" technology, a layer of clay is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It will prevent moisture seepage. It is rammed, already at this stage creating a slope from the foundation. This backfill is suitable for any type of soil. Let it be hard and long rammed, but it will not conduct water. If you use sand for the blind area of ​​a house standing on clay soils, most of the water will be just under the foundation.

Things will go faster if you use a tamping machine. If there is none, they take a log of medium diameter, saw off 80-90 cm. The height should be such that you do not have to bend over - your hands should be free to reach the top edge. On the one hand, they fill the cross member - the handle. This deck is rammed, raising and lowering it.

Then a layer of sand is poured. It is spilled with water and also carefully compacted. With normal soils and if they will not walk along the blind area, paving slabs or paving stones can be laid. When using concrete as a protective coating, it will also be necessary to pour and compact a layer of crushed stone, arrange formwork and expansion joints, expand the reinforcing belt and only then pour the solution. So the production of a concrete track takes a lot of time.

Blind area insulation

If a blind area is made around a house with a basement or basement, it is necessary to make it both heat and waterproof at the same time. Insulation is necessary for any slab foundation - it will prevent the soil from freezing under the slab.

Some experts argue that in central Russia and in the north, insulation is necessary in any houses with seasonal residence. The fact is that in a heated house, the heating itself prevents the foundation from freezing. And if the blind area is insulated, then only for the purpose of saving fuel. In a house with seasonal residence, additional measures must be taken to extend the life of the building. And that's why. Any material can endure a certain number of freeze and thaw cycles. After that it starts to collapse. In the absence of insulation in one season, the foundation will freeze and freeze as many times as the weather changes - in autumn and spring, the weather often alternates between warm and cold weather. What this state of affairs will lead to is clear: after some short time, destruction will begin.

For thermal insulation, a heat-insulating layer is attached to the base to the entire depth of the ditch (or better, the foundation). It is also laid on the bedding under the protective coating. To insulate the blind area around the house, the following materials are used:

• expanded polystyrene;
• foamed polyurethane;
• Styrofoam.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

This material is one of the best for insulating foundations. At the same time, it retains heat and does not let moisture through: its hygroscopicity is close to zero. Its disadvantage is that it melts easily. But for the insulation of the foundation and formwork, this disadvantage is insignificant.

It is advisable to spread a plastic film on horizontally laid out plates - it will protect the joints of the plates from water leakage.

Formwork with polystyrene is done in this way:

1. Compacted coarse-grained sand with a layer of 15 cm.
2. Ruberoid. At the same time, it must be brought to the walls by 15 cm.
3. Polystyrene plates, joints are glued with sealant. The layer thickness is 10 cm. It can be either one slab, or two 5 cm each. If there are two slabs, they need to be glued with overlapping seams - this will be more reliable protection against moisture penetration.
4. Polyethylene film 200 microns.
5. Sand layer. It is carefully rammed, trying not to push through the plates.
6. Protective material.

Any film can be used as a protective material. But a reinforcing mesh (metal with a cell of 10 * 10 cm) is additionally placed under the concrete, and only then the solution is poured under the slope.

Foamed polyurethane

It is sprayed from special devices. It does not rot, practically does not absorb water, the operating temperature range is from -60 o C to +150 o C. It is applied quickly - all work can take three to four hours, but the use of a special apparatus entails payment for services. They are not cheap - one of the components of the composition is toxic. So for all its attractiveness, this method is used infrequently.

Foam insulation

This is the cheapest of the heaters. It has good heat-insulating properties, does not let water through, and also has good sound-proofing properties. Its only drawback is its low mechanical strength. When using it, an additional reinforcing belt is required. The sequence of actions is the same as when insulating with polystyrene, only two differences:

• pour sand on top of the insulation in a thicker layer, ram it only by patting it with a shovel, while walking on the foam is impossible;
• under a tile or paving stone, a reinforcing belt is also needed, which is covered with a second layer of sand from above.

Despite the low price, polystyrene is not the best choice: it is too afraid of loads. If the path will be walked, it should not be used. To reduce the cost of insulation, you can use it for sticking to the foundation, and buy polystyrene foam on the formwork itself. This will be the best option.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary for heaving soils and the absence of insulation of the foundation and blind area. In this case, the less water there is under the building, the less likely it is that heaving forces will harm your building.

The sequence of layers for waterproofing is as follows:

• A layer of waterproofing - an ordinary dense polyethylene film 200-300 microns thick - clay is laid. It does not need to be pulled - there must be some freedom of movement so that it does not tear during seasonal shifts of the soil. The height of entry to the foundation is 15-20 cm. It is nailed to the foundation with a clamping bar (if wooden, then it must be treated with hot drying oil so that it does not rot). But this is done later, after laying a layer of sand and geotextiles. So for now, fix the film on the wall, for example, with a few nails.
• 10-15 cm of sand are poured onto the film. He is rammed. Geotextiles are laid on top. For a blind area, it is a godsend - it allows moisture to pass through, redistributes the load, does not tear, does not allow different layers to mix, is not damaged by insects and rodents, and does not allow plants to germinate. And all this is some kind of woven or non-woven membrane (they come in different types). Lay the geotextile so that it overlaps the film laid below, and attach both layers with a plank to the foundation. On the other hand, it must cover the entire remaining height of the dug trench.
• Then there are two options:
  1. To save money, you can fill the remaining cake with crushed stone, and lay a reinforcing layer on it - a metal mesh made of steel bar with a step of 10 * 10 cm. Concrete can be poured from above.
  2. When using paving stones or tiles, the cake will be more difficult. On the compacted rubble, it will be necessary to lay another layer of geotextile. On it - lay another layer of sand, and already lay protective and finishing tiles on the sand.

Two options for the blind area - from concrete and tiles, rubble stone, etc.

This design wicks away water very well.

Soft hidden blind area

Modern waterproofing materials allow you not to make a protective coating around the house. They effectively retain and divert water, while the cost of such a cake is much less. In this case, they speak of a hidden blind area. And all because immediately from the foundation you can sow grass or arrange a flower garden, and all the water-removing layers are located in the thickness of the rock.

For the device of a soft blind area, profiled membranes are used. They have a non-linear structure - low height protrusions and depressions.

Do-it-yourself soft blind area around the house is easy to implement. The only thing that can cause some difficulties is a rather large amount of earthwork. The width of the ditch is desirable from 1.2 m to 1.5 m. But the depth can be small - about 25-30 cm.

The procedure for installing a hidden soft blind area is as follows:

• First, they remove the soil, immediately form a slope of 3-5% from the house.
• They are treated with chemicals from plants.
• The profiled membrane is rolled out over the entire width of the blind area, one edge is led a little onto the wall and fixed, the second is simply left free.
• A layer of geotextile is rolled out from above. It is laid in the same way - one edge is fixed on the wall. Both layers of waterproofing materials can be fastened together with one clamping bar.
• Pebbles or a large fraction of screenings are poured onto geotextiles and rammed.
• The next layer is medium and fine screening, and on top is sand. Each layer is rammed separately.
• Fertile soil is poured from above and plants are planted.

Despite the apparent unreliability, this design removes water even better than those made using traditional technologies. And the work, as you can see, is not complicated and expensive. If necessary, you can lay tiles or paving stones on a layer of sand. Then the look will be more traditional.

There is one caveat: if the soil on the site is clay (namely clay) or your house is on a slope, it will be necessary to supplement the structure with a drainage pipe. It is laid at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from the wall of the house, at the level where the bevel of the geotextile ends (you can lower it a little lower). But at the same time, the membrane and geotextiles should cover it from below and from the outer side so that the collected moisture flows through the perforation into the pipe, and then is discharged through it into the sewer or drainage system.

Features of concreting

When constructing a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account some of the subtleties of the technology.

Firstly, the composition of the solution must be frost-resistant. Why is clear. You can buy ready-made mixes, but it's not cheap. You can use additives that increase the frost resistance of concrete. In the simplest case, add more cement. Make a solution based on: one part of cement, three parts of sand and gravel.

Secondly, to avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to make expansion joints. For this, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are usually used. They are treated from rotting with hot drying oil or. Then they put it on edge, setting the required slope, approximately every 2-3 meters. Secure with metal pins or wooden pegs. When pouring the solution, they can be used as beacons. In the future, the slats will ensure the mobility of the formwork during seasonal soil movements.

And thirdly, to give the surface greater strength and a more aesthetic appearance, it is sprinkled with dry cement, which is rubbed with a trowel. Do this after the filling is completed. This process is called concrete ironing. The surface after that becomes strong, smooth, with a slight sheen.

Results

Making a blind area around the house with your own hands is not the easiest, but far from the most difficult task. There are many solutions that will improve the performance of the building and extend its life.

A reliable, time-tested way to protect the foundation from the effects of surface water is to install a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of a blind area made of concrete is its low cost and ease of manufacture.

100% protection against moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with an integral coating, is not able to guarantee any material (without arranging a multi-tiered "pie"). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs capital protection.

This is precisely the main task of the blind area - protecting the foundation and basement of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a finished look.

Consider step by step how to properly make a blind area around the house of concrete with your own hands. We propose to break down all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

• In the first part, we will analyze what you need to know and prepare before getting started.

• In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and the rules for its construction

• concrete pavement width, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than the overhang of roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and plays the role of a path around the house;

• length. Since the foundation needs protection around the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely encircle the structure. An exception may be only the installation site of the concrete porch;

• depth or level of deepening of the blind area should not exceed half of the estimated depth of soil freezing characteristic of a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or requested information in the architecture department at the location of the object.

  The ability of a concrete pavement to move along with the soil informs it of its function. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to water drainage, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

  Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the soil.

• concrete pavement thickness. Justified is the minimum thickness of the surface layer of 70-100 mm. If an increased operational load is planned, for example, the movement of a car, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;

• blind area slope. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on local rainfall and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken equal to 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;

• border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the owner of the house and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that differ in a powerful surface root system (poplar, plane tree), then the installation of a limiter is mandatory;

• plinth height. The standards establish a minimum base height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft one. Recall that the blind area around the house made of concrete is of a rigid type;

• deck height from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area is 50 mm above the ground. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, the destruction of the structure.

• concrete deck construction has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation.

How to make a blind area of ​​concrete around the house

Material preparation:

• blind area concrete. The brand is an indicator of the quality of concrete, its value is in the range from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class is in the range from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. So, class B 15, indicates that a cube of concrete pouring with a size of 15x15x15 cm is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, cement brand M 200 (class B15) is used.

The parameters (properties) of concrete, depending on the grade, are shown in the table.

• sand. What is needed? For the device of the lower layer of the pillow, river or quarry sand is suitable. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;

• rubble (gravel). For the blind area, crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable;

• clay or geotextile for a hydraulic lock. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;

• iron cement.

The composition of the concrete solution for the blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can knead it yourself. For this you need to prepare:

• pavement cement. You should know that the brand of concrete is determined by the brand of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. Cement must be fresh, with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It is easy to check the freshness, just squeeze a little cement in your fist, if it shrinks into a lump - its expiration date is running out, if it crumbles freely - you can work with it;

Note. What kind of cement is best for the blind area? Naturally fresh and high brand. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete solution.

• sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take sifted and washed from impurities and soil;

• rubble. It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;

• water. Should be at room temperature;

• additives. Needed in order to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Liquid glass is often used as an additive.

From the tools you will need a concrete mixer or a container for mixing, a shovel, a bucket (it is better to take a plastic one, it is easier to wash), a measuring container (for water), a manual tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete solution for the blind area

In practice, the solution for the blind area is prepared in portions, after all the preparatory work has been completed. We will give a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

The proportions of the solution for the blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for obtaining concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because. brings cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the fortress is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W / C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution is also important. Cement is first poured into a mixing tank or concrete mixer and water is poured. By mixing, the so-called cement milk is obtained. Then the rest of the components are added to it. First, sand is poured, in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between the supply of components. Thus, the mixture is better mixed.

The technology of the blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

Preparation of the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. The use of a continuous herbicide will eliminate the activity under the substrate. For example, drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Considering that the blind area should exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

markup. To do this, we pull the rope over the stakes clogged in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Masters install additional beacons (stretch the rope) on the basement of the house. Fastening is made through 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay greasy clay with a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing material, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that the film does not tear, it is better to pour a layer of sand 50-100 mm into the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured over the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and rammed. In the case of a clay hydraulic lock, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, its tension should be avoided. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Masters advise to make high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with rubble or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with rubble. This will increase the rate of water removal.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude translates into the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of rubble. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and rammed. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grate for laying it, which is used in landscape design for gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without special need.

Sand filling.

Laying pipes of communications. To do this, a recess is made in the sand for pipes and storm water inlets.

Blind area insulation. Styrofoam or polystyrene foam is laid on the compacted sand, with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying the insulation in two layers with an offset.

Reinforcement of concrete pavement. It is carried out by laying a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm or knitting a reinforcing cage.

Advice. The chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not expected, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the rubble to a height of 20-30 mm. That will contribute to a better distribution of concrete.

Formwork device. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to the level. In order to level the bursting force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. When installing, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that the internal seams are invisible.

The device of expansion joints. To do this, we install wooden slats, boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally at the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are set according to the level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because. when pouring concrete, they are guided by them. As an alternative to wood, Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 rubles / m) or a hydro-swellable elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A / B, can be used.

How to close the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints after the first winter had cracks. Many people think that wood swells and lets moisture through. The resulting cracks can be sealed with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles / piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles / piece).

Pouring concrete pavement. When pouring concrete, care must be taken to ensure that no air pockets form, and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that tubercles and depressions do not appear during pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to make the entire blind area at a time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring the blind area, you can apply a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayonet. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the mortar fills the entire space.

How to pour a concrete blind area around the house - video

Protection of the concrete blind area from destruction

Many are interested in how to cover the concrete pavement around the house. Indeed, without fail, after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, exposure to moisture, rain, snow. Consider how and what is the best way to do it.

Ways to protect the blind area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe foundation:

Ironing of the concrete pavement around the house

How to iron the blind area with your own hands?

• Dry method of ironing - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement sets with concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand water.

• Wet method of ironing - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete dries), you need to walk along the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1: 1) with the addition of lime dough (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Covering the blind area with a primer

Deep penetration primers, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles), are suitable for this. Priming solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, laying tiles or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZH-11 (195 rubles / 5 l). Concrete hardeners are gaining popularity, such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles / 5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles / 10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles / 20 l) or Ashford Formula ($ 120 / 10 l).

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budgetary version of a protective composition (primer, water repellent), providing a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a ratio (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

Enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. The polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles/kg) has proven itself excellently.

Facing the blind area with tiles, stone

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or natural stone on top of the concrete pavement. In this case, concrete acts as a binder solution.

• near the blind area, it is desirable to install a storm drain, which will drain the flowing water and prevent silting of the site;

• to ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with a film. So, evaporated moisture will linger on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with a film, it can be moistened periodically. The time to complete solidification with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;

• after the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. Here you should be careful, because. removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This procedure for performing work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees a long-term full-fledged functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself concrete pavement repair around the house

The most common problems include:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to fix cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of damage (crevices, crevices, concrete breaks):

• no more than 1 mm. "Self-healing" is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed from friction during walking;

• no more than 3 mm. Assumes the use of "cement test". Shallow cracks can be repaired (filled) with a liquid cement solution (1 part cement to 1 part water);

• 3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant of the type mentioned above TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can repair the crack with a freshly prepared concrete solution. However, before that, the crack needs to be widened. In cross section, it should resemble a cone. Apply a primer over the entire area of ​​the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles / 10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, a special cement-based mortar that hardens in 15 minutes. As an example, putty Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel (410 rubles 5kg)

• crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a split in concrete and refers to significant damage. It is eliminated only by expansion with the subsequent pouring of new concrete.

Stratification of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of the masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (stratification). Several factors may be responsible for this phenomenon. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour a concrete solution on a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make a large blind area. Increased air content in the concrete mix. Exceeding parts of crushed stone in the composition of concrete.

What to do if the concrete pavement crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with a “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1:1:1).

If the damage has reached a significant scale, then you need to take drastic measures:

1. determine the boundaries of damage to prevent its spread;
2. cut down part of the concrete;
3. cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
4. apply a new layer of mortar;
5. cover with foil until completely dry.

If you start, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alteration and reconstruction.

The cost of work on the device of a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to the masters, then the estimate should contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data at the end of 2015)

Service - work on the blind area of ​​a private house	Doing the work yourself	The cost of the master's work per sq.m.
Material price	We do not take into account, because cost will be the same
Removal of the old blind area (dismantling)	0	65
Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm.)	0	300
Clay water lock device	0	100
Laying foil or geotextile	0	40
Backfilling of the sand layer + rammer (5 mm.)	0	80
Formation of crushed stone layer (100 mm)	0	80
Installation of a storm water inlet	0	250
Pipe laying (per meter)	0	50
Concrete blind area device (ready-made concrete)	0	300
Concrete pavement device (concrete mixing)	0	650
Total	Saving	About 1200-1400 rubles

At the same time, keep in mind that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the manufacture of a concrete blind area for 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, a good incentive to make a blind area of ​​concrete with your own hands. Moreover, from the above instructions it is clear that this work does not require a special tool, any special materials, only the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.

A blind area is a single continuous covering encircling a house or other building around the perimeter. The arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the construction of the building. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tile, brick or other material, the blind area is built after the completion of the said event.

Useful advice! With the implementation of all tasks related to the arrangement of the blind area, it is necessary to cope before the arrival of cold weather.

For the manufacture of the structure in question, a variety of materials can be used: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers was the blind area made of concrete. This material is characterized by a long service life, high performance and relatively affordable cost.

Blind area around the house
The blind area is concrete

Stone pavement
Brick pavement

Many owners do not fully realize the importance of the blind area, considering it to be an exclusively decorative element of the landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reviewing the information below, you will find out why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to equip it, and how to make such a coating on your own.

As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.

Table. blind area functions

Functions	Explanations
decorative	The blind area makes the general view of the building more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete.
Protective	A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. This structural element does not allow moisture to contact the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of destruction of the foundation will be significantly reduced. The design is arranged so that sewage and other waters are immediately discharged into the sewer system or other suitable place, for which the required surface slope is set.
Thermal insulation	At this point, few people pay attention, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area contributes to a significant decrease in the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure.
Soil heaving prevention	As noted, the presence of a blind area can reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, swelling of the soil will also be significantly reduced. Thanks to this, good protection of the foundation of the building from shifts in the ground will be ensured, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole.

Design features and requirements for the blind area

The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is underlayment. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. For the manufacture of this ball of construction, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.

Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals - herbicides. The use of such eliminates the growth of plant roots and grass in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.

The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protection of the foundation from water. Thickness - up to 100 mm. For the manufacture of the upper ball, asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used.

In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be found in the following image.

In order for the blind area to fully cope with the tasks mentioned earlier, in the process of its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.

1. Firstly, the width of the blind area should exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width, in this case, should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, the mentioned indicator increases to an average of 100 cm.

   

   Blind areas: a - clay gravel; b - concrete; c - asphalt; g - cobblestone; 1 - compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 - clay; 3 - cement screed 15 mm; 5 - concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 - asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 - crushed stone 10 mm; 7 - cobblestone; 8 - sand preparation 50 mm

   

2. Secondly, the blind area must be done with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific value of the slope is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finish coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum allowable slope value, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.

   

   

3. Thirdly, the blind area should be continuous, encircling the structure around the entire perimeter. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the structure will decrease significantly.

   

4. Fourthly, the blind area cannot be associated with the foundation - these systems are characterized by varying degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum expansion joint of 1-1.2 cm must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or filled with sand.

   

   

   

Varieties of blind areas and their purpose

Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators, all existing types of blind area can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.

Table. Types of blind area

Group of blind areas	Description
	This group includes monolithic structures made of concrete, paved blind areas, as well as coatings equipped with a bulk method (cement mortar is used) on crushed stone, followed by ironing the fill. A monolithic structure, ceteris paribus, will serve no less than the building encircled by it. A significant disadvantage of such a system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is financially expedient only when performing large-scale road asphalting works. Important! If it is planned to insulate the blind area, a rigid system is the only possible option - it is pointless to insulate soft and semi-rigid coatings. Additional disadvantages of hard blind areas include their low decorative performance - a concrete or asphalt site can hardly be called very beautiful.
	The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multi-layer pillow, the top - paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options), reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestones, porcelain stoneware, etc. can be used. Self-leveling coatings are relatively easy to install, they require much less labor and financial investment compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving type soils.
	A multi-layer pillow is set up, a layer of gravel is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor intensive. The disadvantage of soft blind area is the low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. Yes, and it is not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that it is advisable to use a soft blind area only as a temporary solution if there are problems with finances, time or labor resources - it is unlikely that you will like to do the same thing every 5-7 years.

The most optimal type of coatings in terms of cost, quality and appearance are semi-rigid blind areas. They serve up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resources for their arrangement.

An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind area is an attractive appearance. For example, by making paving slabs, the owner gets at his disposal a very beautiful area, no different from traditional garden paths. At the same time, semi-rigid blind areas are equipped in the same order - only the material of the finishing coating differs (usually it is paving stones or paving slabs).

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

The underlying layer (pillow) is made in the same order, regardless of the type of blind area chosen (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system, related issues will be considered separately).

As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft gravel blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of gravel and an additional layer of sand are poured over the pillow shown in the image, after which tiles / paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel pad is equipped, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.

Sand cushion under the blind area
Rubble pillow

The arrangement of the pillow is described in the table.

Table. Do-it-yourself blind area pillow

Stage of work	Description
	A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. Depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended indicator is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater convenience, you can pre-make the markup, based on the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or go the simplest way: Drive metal rods or wooden pegs into the ground in the corners of the future blind area; Drive in intermediate pegs; Pull a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials for this, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the chosen type of blind area, at the same stage, you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the points of inclination. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with effort, and continue until the whole earth is rammed.
	Vertically evenly drive intermediate pegs into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will act as formwork supports. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it no longer makes sense. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is shown in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks.
	Boards with a thickness of 3-4 cm are suitable for the construction of formwork. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can pre-mark the boards with the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. You can tighten the corners of the structure along the outside with corners. To fasten the elements, it is preferable to use bolts - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be enough. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden components with an antiseptic and wrap it with roofing felt or other insulating material - unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which will not have the best effect on the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows reinforcement. We are not paying attention to it yet. Note two. The image shows a variant with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - this moment does not matter in principle. In general, you can do without such supports, ensuring the stability of the boards with the help of bricks / blocks installed on the back side. Important! The temperature seam is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the equipped structure. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely adverse consequences: as a result of heaving of the soil with temperature differences, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged on average with a 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick in the indicated increments, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden structural elements must be impregnated with an antiseptic before use. If a blind area is planned that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it's just more convenient with it.
	Pour a 10-15 cm (depending on the initial depth of the pit) layer of sand into the trench. If possible, use fine river sand. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is carefully compacted. You can use the same method as for tamping the soil. Spill the sand with water for better compaction. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after tamping, and not the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is covered with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different fractions so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or brick battle. This layer of the cushion will ensure the removal of moisture that has penetrated through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If a high location of groundwater is noted at the construction site, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and gravel layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration, 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the formwork walls. Do not forget to maintain the specified slope of the surface (if provided) when filling sand and gravel.

The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the features of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common options for the design in question.

Soft crushed stone blind area

In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of gravel. To broaden your horizons, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with an alternative arrangement for such a design using additional waterproofing material.

Pre-dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the above instructions, then follow the steps below.

Table. Soft blind area

Stage of work	Description
	A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing material, but we recommend giving preference to rubimast - it costs a little more, but it lasts much longer. In this example, a formwork 80 cm wide is set up. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. In order not to cut the material, simply bend its excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or another suitable composition.
	A 10 cm layer of a mixture is poured over the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel / crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope.
	On top of the sand and gravel backfill, you can pour an additional 3-5 cm (or to the top) layer of gravel and compact it well - so the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it.

Temporary soft gravel blind area is ready. If desired, you can hide the formwork boards with decorative borders.

Prices for crushed stone

Basic information

As noted, the technology for arranging the blind area with a finish coating in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of a particular material is up to the owner, but there are a few important considerations.

So, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the shortcomings of paving stones, one can only note a relatively high cost.

Tile is one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging the blind area. This option has a number of significant advantages:

• tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the amount necessary to fill the site;
• the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finish option that the owner wants to see it;
• tiles can be laid on their own, spending relatively little time on this - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks until the concrete hardens.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

What tile to use?

When choosing a tile for the blind area, follow the tips below.

Council the first. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibrocompression method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of acquiring a fake for yourself, because. the manufacture of this finish in artisanal conditions is impossible - for the production of tiles of this group, serious expensive industrial equipment is used.

Vibrocast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the actual quality of such products usually remains a mystery.

Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program - so you can choose the pattern you like best and make it easier for yourself to continue the work. If you wish, you can use one of the ready-made options presented in the images.

Tip three. Choose a tile for paving the blind area that will go well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.

Paving technology

You have already made a pillow for the blind area. Further work is performed in the sequence shown in the table.

Table. Do-it-yourself tile blind area

Stage of work	Description
	As you can see on one of the above images, blind area cushion with paving tiles has an additional top layer in the form of sand backfill. Pour 8-10 cm of sand over gravel. Recommendations in leveling and material rammers are similar previously equipped layer.
	Proceed to paving the blind area. Tiles lay from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place the elements according to the principle of brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in adjacent rows. You can choose a specific styling option from the previously proposed illustrations or come up with your own.
	A rubber mallet is used to ensure a snug fit of the tile / paving stone to the base. Working with the tool is carried out in the following order: The tile is laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer gently taps on the plank, trying hard enough, but gently, to press the tile with a mallet through the mentioned gasket. Each tile is laid in this sequence.
	Using a spirit level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Sprinkle sand under the sagging trim elements, precipitate the protruding parts of the tile with a mallet, following the above guide, while maintaining the desired slope of the blind area. Pave the entire site in accordance with the above sequence. If you need to cut tiles, do it with a grinder.

Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones / tiles. We advise you to lay the finish directly on the compacted sand - in this case, more efficient water drainage through the gaps between the tiles down will be ensured. In the case of the arrangement of cement pouring, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the appearance of ice in the cold season and all the attendant troubles.

If, due to any circumstances, a blind area without the use of a cement screed is not possible, after filling the sand layer, do the following:

• prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine-grained, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium density;
• spread the solution over the surface of the site to be equipped with a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight rail (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.

After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use an adhesive designed specifically for fixing the finishing materials in question. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the preparation and proper use of the adhesive - for different compositions, these points may differ.

Some developers even accept a cement-filled structure without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.

This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.

Concrete pavement

An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having once spent a relatively significant amount on the arrangement of a concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and most durable structure.

We will talk about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a heat-insulating layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, basement and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps that affect the installation of a heater from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to refuse thermal insulation.

Insulated blind area made of concrete - photo of layers
Concrete pavement - scheme

Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the depth of soil freezing. In practice, a device of a similar design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. In view of this, developers adhere to the "golden mean", which is 700-900 mm.

Before starting work, you need to choose a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.

1. Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
2. Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
3. Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.

Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material for insulating the blind area is foam. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to equip the insulation in 2 layers.

The composition of the pillow for the concrete blind area remains similar to the previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.

First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If the impossibility of subsequent dismantling of the wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, subsequent decoration of visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements is planned), you can simply glue the insulation boards to pre-assembled boards using a binder composition designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.

Along with this, an alternative option is available: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic wrap and deepened into the ground along the blind area. If such a design remains in sight after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this.

Improvised formwork with heat-insulating material is installed along the entire length of the blind area. Bricks or building blocks can be used as supports by placing them on the ground from the back of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.

The foam plastic will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials that are poured further. For greater confidence, you can bury the plates in the ground for a couple of centimeters or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in the slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in the foam - to the formation of cold bridges.

From the insulation, in this case, you can make a damper layer between the basement of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.

After installing the side heat-insulating plates, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging the blind area with subsequent paving with paving slabs.

Table. Do-it-yourself concrete pavement

Stage of work	Description
	In this case, it was decided to use a two-layer thermal insulation of conventional foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is equipped. The plates are stacked as tightly as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. Having laid out the entire site with insulation, blow out the existing gaps with mounting foam. Let it dry, cut off the excess with a sharp knife and proceed with laying the second insulating layer. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam in most cases are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps between the elements laid next to each other. Important! Heat-insulating layers are laid with bandaging of seams, i.e. the joints of the top row must be offset relative to the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the plates, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this.
	For reinforcement, you can buy a ready-made mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The bars are assembled into a grid with cells of 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections with a knitting wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The grid must be laid indented from the base. To ensure it, special clamps-props are used. In the absence of a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not work to provide a 5-centimeter indent, as when pouring the foundation, because. this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10 mm gap.
	Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a share of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that a plastic homogeneous mass of normal density is obtained at the output. The pouring of the finished solution is carried out in the same way as the cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled with a mop or other suitable device, for example, the rule is a long straight slat. The function of the beacons in this case will be taken over by the side walls of the formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, seal the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this takes 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic wrap. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, spill the concrete with a little water and cover it back - thanks to this, the maximum amount of cement will react, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure.

Useful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with a fiberglass mesh. To fasten it with foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.

In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions from the boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, which is why the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to break the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.

concrete mix prices

concrete mix

Drainage Issues

To ensure the effective removal of atmospheric precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:

• an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
• the resulting halves of the pipe are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
• in the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, integral drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. To accommodate them, trenches are dug. Choose the dimensions of the pit so that at least 5 cm of free space remains on the sides and top of the pipe. At the bottom of the trench, first fill in a 5-centimeter layer of sand and tamp. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and diverted towards the wastewater collection structure. The specific option depends on the individual characteristics of the arrangement of the site.

The described drainage looks like this:

To improve the appearance of the concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner's choice.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself blind area